.9^^,,%, 


IMAGE  EVALUATBON 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


Ui  iiii   12.2 
[^   U£    i2.0 

u 


!!& 


IL25  i  1.4 


HiolDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


^ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSiJ 

(716)872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  mir-oreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibi^ographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  imager  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pelliculAe 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  tit 


titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustre^ions/ 


D 
0 


D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  Tombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  m&y 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldi.ientaires; 


T» 
to 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qi^'il  lui  a  4t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modiffar 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normals  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  Oi  foxei 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 


I      I    Pages  damaged/ 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I      I    Pages  discoloured,  stained  on  foxed/ 


Tl 

P« 
o1 
fil 


O 
b( 
tt 
si 
01 
fi 
si 
01 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

r^l^Showthrough/ 
L!-J    Transparence 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


D 


Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Tl 
si 
T 
v« 

IV 
di 
ei 
b 
ri 
r( 
nr 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmad  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Metropolitan  Toronto  Library 
Canadian  History  Department 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iteeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichdver  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAi.ArositA  de: 

Metropolitan  Toronto  Library 
Canadian  History  Department 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  tt^  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 

Les  exemplaires  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  k*ilmfo  en  comnienpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autre'  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dern>4re  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empret.jte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  dr  cheque  microfiche,  selon  !e 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUiVRE  ".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
fiimAs  A  des  taux  de  rAduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciichA.  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

STRANGERS   ANiO    CITIZENS 

are  cordially  Invited  to  visit  the  store  of 

BBADFOBD  &  ANTHONY, 

374  Washingrton  St.  (opp.  Bromfleld  St.),  Boston, 

IMFOBTERS  AND  DEALERS  IN 

CUTLERY.  FISHING-TACKLE.  SKATES, 

AND    FANCY    HARD1¥ARE. 

Thrt^^^y^npt:  t.h^^  ^i^t.^wiahroy^t,  from  basement  tQ  roof.  are  to  be  seen  many 


Nd 

Table 
Pookc 
Hcisso 
Bazoi 


METROPOLITAN 

TORONTO 

LIBRARY- 


s. 


♦  ♦. 


;<  • 


Lancev 
fo-  all  1 

EYEB' 

Bradfoi 
fbr  the 
the  bei 

37 


Ca»a<S«^ 


,i'''« 


ir* 


S. 

Ives. 

focket- 
|,&c. 

IS. 

(lity,  of 
nheart, 
FUes 

It. 


ES, 

of  the 

on. 


)• 


f  their 
This 


'    .  789 

yOnge* 

'TORONTO 
M4W  2G8 


•• 


#' 


Nortnprn  i.n»ij — r 


^   -^ 


Central  Italy .•...* 

Traveller's  Manual  of  ConTersatloU)  in  English)  Oermant 
French,  and  Italian • 

These  Ouide-Boolis  are  abundantly  furnished  with  Maps  and  Plans. 


tt.50 


1.25 


"  Baedeker  is,  as  is  well  known,  a  singularly  accurate  and  useful  guide  ....  his 
information  is  comprehensive,  minute,  and  carefully  compiled."  —  Pa// ifoZI  Gazette. 

"  No  American  who  knows  what  is  best  for  his  convenience  and  comfprt  abroad 
will  fall  to  possess  himself  of  this  invaluable  series  of  guide-books.  Better  buy  them 
here  in  America.  They  will  flimish  Just  the  needed  reading  during  the  long  hours  of 
the  sea-voyage."—  Watchman  and  R^/Uctor  (Boston^). 

%*  For  sale  by  Booksellers.    Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by  the  Ptiblisfun, 


^m 

M 


X 


1 


11.75 

;2.oo 

2.00 

3.50 

2.00 

2.50 

0 

2.50 

' 

• 


nH»  m^' 


mm 


v-^ 


1 


-   t 

-i 
1 
-t 


\ 


■•5 


I 

it 


#;•*•■ 


n 

I;  • 


,  i 


I 


I 

r. 


(}■■  \ 


'^fi 


k 

I- 

t 


I- 


^y>-i  r 


I     'I 


'i:;i 


.A,  .,;-\ 


■   J  ■■■ 
1  ;  - 

1 '  \ 


r,  I  \  ,  -    I 


t    ■  ..J. 


!      ,    ill" 


OTI;:  re. 


j 


("E*''       ■»^ 


.?^- 


•T. 


^y 


K 


H'-^-l^-'Kl 


V- 


.'■■■♦-■ 


o:  Jili 


v.: 

■a: 


* 


■::v.^ 


"■>         ''{I  ^!fi»M'wiJKti»JMwMMiltaMHMMMMi*liiitaMMHtai 


LJ__ 1      A^ 


iJ^ 


A 


m':m^^s:mm 


! 


S*Bi 


■^i^ 

..UV       J 

"^ 

\< 

1, 

^\    <: 

.•X*°\ 

L 

rvr 

^ 

i      <: 

MrffG 

•-J'W 

W.iaIi 

KOPI 

3' 

■vJlTe 

^ 

^SJ 

Ka«te 

LlJ 

il^:^-l> 


09 


Lon^lade  Wegt  e«  faom  GrconWi A 


-.  >.-^ 


I  fc  »  t . 


A^Hift 


h 


01 


IT 


i 


kS. 


P.O 


^&M4 


mii:^^ 


7 


o 


V.       )     / 


r-' 


V 


.  :     ,t.  ■%,',     , 


/ 


«fct. 


L»V' 


,:>;,.,«3i3iS,.  -^*..iwsa*^?»-.»ps! 


v«r  ^  >  5 


>/;)iS; 


THE 


IrITIME  PROYINCES: 


'handbook  for  travellers. 


A   GUIDE  TO 


OklEF  CITIES,  COASTS,  AND  ISLANDS  OF  THE  MABITIME  PROV- 

nrCES  OF  CANADA,  AND  TO  THEIR  SCENERY  AND  HISTORIC 

ATTRACTIONS ;  WITH  THE  GULF  AND  RIVFR  OF  ST. 

LAWRENCE  TO  QUEBEC  AND  MONTREAL  ; 

ALSO,  NEWFOUNDLAND  AND  THE 

LABRADOR  COAST. 


i 


With  Four  Maps  and  Four  Plant. 


\^ 


Wf- 


BOSTON": 
JAMES   R.  OSGOOD   AND   COMPANY, 

Latb  Tiokhob  &  Fields,  and  Fields,  Osqood,  &  Co. 

1875. 


Copyright,  1875. 
Bt  JAMES   R.  OSGOOD  &  CO. 


fn,     '^A      I     ^, 


^. 


^nJ 


r 


0^ 


I  ^^^C\' 


University  Press:  Welch,  Bigelow,  &  Co., 
Cambridge. 


PREFACE. 


^ 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  to  the  Maritime  Provinces 
is  to  supply  the  place  of  a  guide  in  a  land  where  professional 
guides  cannot  be  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  gaining 
the  greatest  possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  infonnation  whi^ 
passing  through  the  most  interesting  portions  of  Eastern  British 
America.  The  St.  Lawrence  Provinces  have  been  hitherto  casu- 
ally treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  (the 
best  of  which  have  long  been  out  of  print),  and  the  Atlantic 
Provinces  have  as  yet  received  but  little  attention  of  this  kind. 
The  present  guide-book  is  the  first  whi^h  has  been  devoted  to 
their  treatment  in  a  combined  form  and  according  to  the  most 
approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar  purpose 
and  character.  It  also  includes  descriptions  of  the  remote  and 
interesting  coasts  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  which  have 
never  before  been  mentioned  in  works  of  this  character.  The 
Handbook  is  designed  to  enable  travellers  to  visit  any  or  all 
of  the  notable  places  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  with  economy 
of  money,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving  lists  of  the  hotels  with 
their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various  routes  by  land  and  water, 
and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal  cities.  The  letter-press 
contains  epitomes  of  the  histories  of  the  cities  and  the  ancient 
settlements  along  the  coast,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  architecture  of  the  cities, 
and  statistics  of  the  chief  industries  of  the  included  Provinces. 
The  brilliant  and  picturesque  records  and  traditions  of  the  early 
French  and  Scottish  colonies,  and  the  heroic  exploits  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries,  have  received  special  attention  in  connection 
with  the  localities  made  famous  in  those  remote  days  ;  and  the 
remarkable  legends  and  mythology  of  the  Micmac  Indians  are 


IV 


PREFACE. 


incorporated  with  the  account'^  of  the  places  made  classic  by 
them.  The  naval  and  military  operations  of  the  wars  which 
centred  on  Port  Royal,  Louisbourg,  and  Quebec  have  been  con- 
densed from  the  best  authorities,  and  the  mournful  events  which 
are  commemorated  in  "  Evangeline "  are  herein  analyzed  and 
recorded.  The  noble  coast-scenery  and  the  favorite  summer- 
voyages  with  which  the  northern  seas  abound  have  been  de- 
scribed at  length  in  these  pages. 

The  plan  and  structTire  of  the  book,  its  system  of  treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which  have 
made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Europe,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hoteL,  and  scenic  attractions  hrive  been  framed  or 
verified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  many 
months  of  almost  incessant  travelling  for  this  express  purpose. 
But  infallibility  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  nature,  especial- 
ly amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America, 
and  hence  the  Editor  would  be  grateful  for  any  bona  fde  cor- 
rections or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents 
may  favor  him. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  They  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  figures,  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  hotels  indicated  by 
asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed  by  the  Editor  to  be  the 
most  comfortable  and  elegant. 

M.  F.  SWEETSER, 

Editor  of  Osgood's  American  Handbooks^ 

131  Franklin  St.,  Boston. 


^ 


I 

II 
I) 

V] 

VII 

VIIl 

IS 

2 


Rotr 
1 


CONTENTS. 


^p 


%■ 


PAGE 
,       1 


I.  Plan  or  Tour 2 

II.  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  .               ^ 

III.  Money  and  Travellino  Expenses \  *     4 

IV.  Railways  and  Steamboats *  .      6 

V.  Round-Trip  Excursions '     ^ 

VI.  Hotels '  7 

VII.  Language '    ^  g 

VIII.  Climate  and  Dress *  ,     8 

IX.  Fishing '    ^  g 

X.  Miscellaneous  Notes 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


BOUTE 


General  Notes     . 

1.  St.  John 

2.  The  Environs  of  St.  John 

1.  Liiy  Lake.     Marsh  Road 


Suspension  Bridge 


Passamaquoddy  Bay 


Passamaquoddy  Bay 


2.  Mispeclr  Road. 

3.  Carleton 

3.  St.  John  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen 

1.  Eastport 

4.  Grand  Manan 

5.  St.  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen, 

1.  St.  George.    Lake  Utopia 

2.  St.  Andrews.     Chamcook  Mountain 

3.  St.  Stephen.    Schoodic  Lakes 

6.  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton 

7.  St.  John  to  Bangor 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton.    The  St.  John  River   . 

1.  Kennebecasis  Bay 

2.  Belleisle  Bay 

3.  Fredericton 

4.  Fredericton  to  Mlramichi 

Washademoak  Lake  

Grand  Lake  

11.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock 

12.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  by  the  St.  John  River 

13.  Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  RiviJ:re  bu  Loup   . 


9. 

10, 


13 

15 

22 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

28 

30 

32 

33 

85 

36 

37 

39 

40 

42 

,    44 
46 

.    47 
48 

.    49 
51 

.    53 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


BOTJTB  PAGE 

1,  Tobique  to  Bathuret 54 

2.  The  St.  John  to  the  Restigouche 56 

8.  The  Madawaska  District 57 

4.  The  Maine  Woods.    Temiscouata  Lake 58 

14.  St.  John  to  Shediac 69 

15.  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  North  Shore  of  New  Brunswick  60 

1.  Chatham  to  Shippigan Gl 

2.  Shippigan.     Bay  of  Chaleur 64 

8.  Bathurst  to  Caraquette 66 

4.  Campbeliton  to  St.  Flavie 69 

16.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 70 

1.  Quaco.    Sussex  Vale .        .        .71 

2.  Albert  County.    Moncton  to  Quebec 72 

3.  Dorchester.    Sackville 73 

NOVA  SCOTIA. 

General  Notes 75 

17.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 78 

1.  Tantramar  Marsh.    Chignecto  Peninsula 79 

2.  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia 81 

18.  St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley         ...  83 

1.  Annapolis  Royal 85 

2.  The  Annapolis  Valley 88 

3.  Kentville  to  Chester 90 

19.  Halifax 93 

20.  The  Environs  of  Halifax 100 

1.  Bedford  Basin.     Point  Pleasant 100 

21.  The  Basin  of  Minas.    Halifax  to  St.  John 101 

1.  Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'Or 103 

2.  The  Basin  of  Minas 104 

22.  The  Land  of  Evangeline 107 

23.  Annapolis  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth 112 

1.  The  Clare  Settlements 113 

2.  The  Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago 115 

24.  DiOBY  Neck 116 

25.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth.    The  Atlantic  Coast  op  Nova  Scotia     .  117 

1.  Cape  Sambro.    Lunenburg 118 

2.  Liverpool 120 

3.  Shelburne 121 

4.  Cape  Sable 123 

26.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Route       ....  126 

1.  Chester.    Mahone  Bay 127 

2.  Chester  to  Liverpool 128 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes 129 

28.  Halifax  to  Tangier 131 

29.  The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia 133 

30.  Sable  Island 134 


^ 
*» 


I 


CONTENTS. 


Yii 


PAGE 
54 

.      56 

57 
.      58 

59 
c     60 

CI 
.     64 

66 
.      69 

70 
.     71 

72 
.     73 


75 

78 

79 

81 

83 

85 

88 

90 

93 

100 

100 

101 

103 

104 

107 

112 

113 

115 

116 

117 

118 

120 

121 

123 

126 

127 

128 

129 

131 

133 

134 


PAGE 
R0T7TE  1  *\(t 

31.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Pictou       .       .       .       '       •       '       *    "° 
82.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  Cape  Breton   138 

CAPE  BRETON. 

141 

General  Notes "' 

142 

33.  The  Strait  of  Canso 

34.  Arichat  and  Isle  Madame 

35.  The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton       .       .        .       .146 

36.  Halifax  to  Sitdney,  Cape  Breton 1^8 

37.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.    The  Sydney  Coal-Fields        .    152 

38.  The  Fortress  of  Louisbourq 1^* 

89,  The  North  Shore  of  Cape  Breton 1^3 

1,  St.  Anne's  Bay ^^^ 

2.  St.  Paul's  Island .160 

40.  The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes ^^^ 

1.  Baddeck '^^ 

2.  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake 164 

8.  The  Bras  d'Or  to  Halifax 106 

41.  Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Port  Hood 167 

1.  St.  Patrick's  Channel.    Whycocomagh    .        .        .        .        .       .167 

42.  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton 168 

1,  Port  Hood.    Mabou 169 

2.  Margaree.    The  Lord's  Day  Gale 170 

PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

General  Notes 172* 

43.  Shediac  to  Summerside  and  Charlottetown        ....       174 

1.  The  Northumberland  Strait 174 

44.  Pictou  to  Prince  Edward  Island 175 

45.  Charlottetown 175 

1,  Environs  of  Charlotietown 177 

46.  Charlottetown  to   Summerside  and  Tionish.     The  Western 

Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island 177 

1.  Rustico.    Summerside 178 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown 180 

48.  Charlottetown  to  Souias 182 

49.  The  Magdalen  Islands 183 

60.  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon 185 

^  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General  Notes 187 

51.  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 188 

52.  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 189 

63.  The  Environs  of  St.  John's 195 

1,  Portugal  Cove.    Logic  Bay.    Torbay 195 

64.  The  Strait  Shore  of  Avalon.    St.  John's  to  Cape  Race  .       .       196 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


BOUTB  PAOI 

1.  The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland 199 

55.  St.  John's  to  Labrador.    The  Northerv  Coast  of  NEWFOina>LAin>  200 

1.  Bonavista  Bay 203 

2.  Twillingate.    Exploits  Island 205 

66.  St.  John's  to  Conception  Bay 206 

67.  Trinity  Bay 208 

58.  The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame 210 

59.  Placentia  Bay 212 

60.  The  Western  Outports.    St.  John's  to  Cape  Ray  .       .       .       .213 

1.  Fortune  Bay 214 

2.  Hermitage  Bay 215 

61.  The  French  Shore.    Cape  Ray  to  Cape  St.  John      ...  216 

1.  The  Interior  of  Newfoundland 218 

2.  The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle 220 

LABRADOR. 

General  Notes 223 

62.  The  Atlantic  Coast,  to  the  Moravian  Missions  and  Greenland  224 

1.  The  Moravian  Missions 226 

63.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle    ...  227 

64.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence    .       .       .229 

1.  The  Mingan  Islands 231 

2.  The  Seven  Islands 232 

65.  Anticosti 234 

PROVINCE  OP  QUEBEC. 

General  Notes 235 

66u  PiCTOu  TO  Quebec.    The  Coasts  of  Gxspfi 238 

1.  Paspebiac 240 

2.  Perci 242 

3.  Gaspe 244 

67.  The  Lower  St.  Lawrence 246 

1.  Father  Point.    Rimouski 250 

2.  Bic.    Trois  Pistoles 251 

3.  St  Anne  de  la  Pocatifere.    L'Islet 253 

68.  Quebec 255 

1.  Durham  Terrace 259 

2.  o  ^suits'  College.    Basilica *       .       .  261 

3.  Seminary 262 

4.  Laval  University.    Parliament  Building 263 

5.  H6tel  Dieu.    Around  the  Ramparts 266 

a  The  Lower  Town 271 

69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec 276 

1.  Beauport    Montmorenci  Falls 276 

2.  Indian  Lorette 278 

3.  Chateau  Bigot.    Sillery 280 

4.  Point  Levi.    Chandifere  FaUs 282 


71. 

72. 


CONTENTS. 


Ix 


PACK 
.    199 
nouin)LAin>  200 

.    203 

205 
.    206 

208 
.    210 

212 
.    213 

214 
.    215 

216 
.    218 

220 


.  223 
REENLAND     224 

.  226 
227 
229 
231 

.  232 
234 


235 
233 
240 
242 
244 
246 
250 
251 
253 
255 
259 
261 
2C2 
263 
266 
271 
276 
276 
278 
280 
282 


71. 
72. 


BOUTE 

70.  QUEBEC  TO  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne  .... 

1.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anne 

The  Isle  of  Orleans 

Quebec  to  Cacouna  and  the  Saouenav  River 

1.  St  Paul's  Bay 

2.  Murray  Bay 

3.  Cacouna 

73.  The  Saguenay  River 

1.  Tadousac 

2.  Chicoutimi 

3.  Ha  Ha  Bay.    Lake  St.  John    . 

4.  Eternity  Bay.    Cape  Trinity 
Quebec  to  Montreal.    The  St.  Lawrence  River 
Montreal      

1,  Victoria  Square.    Notre  Dame 
2   The  Gesi\.    St.  Patrick's  Church 

3.  Cathedral.     McGill  University.    Great  Seminary 

4.  Hotel  Dieu.    Mount  Royal.    Victoria  Bridge 
The  Environs  of  Montreal.       ... 

1.  Around  the  Mountain.    Sault  au  Recollet  . 

2.  Lachine  Rapids.     Caughnawaga      . 

3.  Beloeil  Mt.    St.  Anne 


74. 
75. 


7(5. 


Index  to  Localities 

Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions 

Index  ro  Quotations 

Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboats    . 


List  of  Authorities  Consulted 


PAGE 

.     283 

283 

.    288 

291 

.    292 

294 
.    290 

297 
.    299 

300 
.    301 

303 
.     305 

309 
.    311 

313 
.    314 

316 
.    318 

318 
.    319 

320 


321 

332 
333 
334 

334 


"A, 

^ 

2? 

f/^ 

i 

^ 

K'irim 

^ 

I 

ionNi 

'■no 

k'P 

1 

RmW. 

"'"f>; 

EMIM 

>y«r 

p 

!^ 

nl^ 

•flfj 

^ 

5 

\  l-J 

Xs 

bdt 

T 

S 

1 

s  < 

>  1 

A- 

m 

fItWU 

5 

R 

>v, 


BW*»«'i<M 


m 


ShM 


LtSrandJ^/ 


»C1J 


le^' 


JBol 


'"»*'r»K 


.(T  0  e ' 


Wn- 


H*"*l 


^1^ 


»nerj 


\Vi» 


^■V' 


li^«» 


g!^» 


iii^iii^^.  '•wil 


.0M«J 


'fHH/<(lll((l(ll|': 


■ii-. //>//. 7.7/     -V.'/ 


<i-V^ 


lal 


iv^hA 


C«m1 


ircaj 


nraV 


.^i/:-^:0^  ^;,^:*^ 


IflnixLjtt' 

to 

?^iii 

ir-A 

1/'^ 

i 

^ 


i>0»«i 


SI 


TJ 


MAPS. 


1.  Map  op  the  Maritime  TRoviNCEa :  before  title-page. 

2.  Map  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  :  after  the  index, 
a  Map  of  the  Acadian  Land  :  between  pages  106  and  107. 

4   Map  of  the  Saouenay  River  :  between  pages  290  and  297. 

b  Map  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  River  :  between  pages  296  and  297. 


PLANS   OP  CITIES. 

1.  St.  John  :  between  pages  14  and  15. 

2.  Halifax  :  between  pages  92  and  93. 

3.  Quebec  :  between  pages  254  and  255. 

4.  Montreal  :  letween  pages  308  and  309. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


N.  —North,  Northern,  etc. 
S.  —  South,  etc. 
E.  —  East,  etc. 
W.  —  West,  etc. 
N.  B.  —  New  Brunswick. 
N.  S.  —  Nova  Scotia. 
N.  P.  —  Newfoundland. 
Lab.  — Labrador. 


P.  E.  I.  —  Prince  Edward  Island. 

P.  Q.  —  Province  of  Quebec. 

M.  —  mile  or  miles. 

r.  —  right. 

1.— left. 

ft.  —  foot  or  feet. 

hr.  —  hour. 

min.  —  miaute  or  minutes. 


Asterisks  denote  objects  deserving  of  special  attention. 


^Sl 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.    Flan  of  Tour. 

The  most  profitable  course  for  a  tourist  in  the  Lower  Provinces  is  to 
keep  moving,  and  his  route  should  be  made  to  include  as  many  as  pos- 
sible of  the  points  of  interest  which  are  easily  accessible.  There  are  but 
few  places  in  this  region  where  the  local  attractions  are  of  sufficient  inter- 
est to  justify  a  prolonged  visit,  or  where  the  accommodations  for  stran- 
gers are  adapted  to  make  such  a  sojourn  pleasant.  The  historic  and 
scenic  beauties  are  not  concentrated  on  a  few  points,  but  extend  through- 
out the  country,  affording  rare  opportunities  for  jounieys  whose  general 
course  may  be  replete  with  interest.  The  peculiar  charms  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  are  their  history  during  the  Acadian  era  and  their  noble 
coast  scenery,  —  the  former  containing  some  of  the  most  romantic  episodes 
in  the  annals  of  America,  and  the  latter  exhibiting  a  marvellous  blending 
of  mountainous  capes  and  picturesque  islands  with  the  blue  northern  sea. 
And  these  two  traits  are  intertwined  throughout,  for  there  is  scarce  a 
promontory  that  has  not  ruins  or  legends  of  French  fortresses,  scarce  a 
bay  that  has  not  heard  the  roaring  broadsides  of  British  frigates. 

The  remarkable  ethnological  phenomena  here  presented  are  also  cal- 
culated to  awaken  interest  even  in  the  lightest  minds.  The  American  tour- 
ist, accustomed  to  the  homogeneousness  of  the  cities  and  rural  communi- 
ties of  the  Republic,  may  here  see  extensive  districts  inhabited  by  French- 
men or  by  Scottish  Highlanders,  preserving  their  national  languages,  cus- 
toms, and  amusements  unaffected  by  the  presence  and  pressure  of  British 
influence  and  power.  Of  such  are  the  districts  of  Clare  and  Madawaska 
and  the  entire  island  of  Cape  Breton.  The  people  of  the  cities  and  the 
English  settlements  are  quaintly  ultra- Anglican  (in  the  secular  sense  of 
the  word),  and  follow  London  as  closety  as  possible  in  all  matters  of  cos- 
t\ime,  idiom,  and  social  manners. 

All  these  phases  of  provincial  life  and  history  afford  subjects  for  study 
or  amusement  to  the  traveller,  and  may  serve  to  make  a  summer  voyage 
both  interesting  and  profitable. 

Travelling  has  been  greatly  facilitated,  within  a  few  years,  by  the  es- 
tablishment of  railways  and  steamship  routes  throughout  the  Provinces. 
From  the  analyses  of  these  lines,  given  in  the  following  pages,  the  tourist 
1  A 


2  INTRODUCTION. 

will  be  able  to  compute  the  cost  of  liis  trip,  both  in  money  and  in  time. 
The  following  tour  would  include  a  glimpse  at  the  chief  attractions  of  the 
country,  and  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  time  requisite  :  — 

Boston  to  St.  John IJ  days. 

St.  John  .        , 1 

St.  John  to  Annapolis  and  Halifax      ....  2 

Halifax 1 

Halifax  to  Sydney li 


The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes 

Port  Hawkesbury  to  Pictou,  Charlottetown,  and  Shediac 

Shediac  to  Quebec  (by  steamer) 

Quebec 

Quebec  to  Boston 

Failures  to  connect 


1 
2 
4 
3 
1 
3 


21  days. 

To  this  circular  tour  several  side-trips  may  be  added,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  traveller.  The  most  desirable  among  these  are  the  routes  to  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  the  St.  John  River,  the  Basin  of  Minas  (to  Parrsboro'), 
from  Halifax  to  Chester  and  Mahone  Bay,  Whycocomagh,  or  Louisbourg 
(in  Cape  Breton),  and  the  Saguenay  River.  Either  of  these  side-trips  will 
take  from  two  to  four  days. 

If  the  tourist  wishes  to  sojouin  for  several  days  or  weeks  in  one  place, 
the  most  eligible  points  for  such  a  visit,  outside  of  St.  John  and  Halifax, 
are  St.  Andrews,  Grand  Manan,  or  Dalhousie,  in  New  Brunswick  ;  An- 
napolis, Wolfville,  Parrsboro',  or  Chester,  in  Nova  Scotia ;  Baddeck,  in 
Cape  Breton  ;  and,  perhaps,  Summerside,  in  Prince  Edward  Island.  At 
each  of  these  villages  are  small  but  comfortable  inns,  and  the  surround- 
ing scenery  is  attractive. 

II.    Vewfoundland  and  Labrador. 

Extended  descriptions  of  these  remote  northern  coasts  have  been  given 
in  the  following  pages  for  the  use  of  the  increasing  number  of  travellers 
wlio  yearly  pass  thitherward.  Tlie  marine  scenery  of  Newfoundland  is 
the  grandest  on  the  North  Atlantic  coast,  and  here  are  all  the  varied  phe- 
nomena of  the  northern  seas,  —  icebergs,  the  aurora  borealis,  the  herds  of 
seals,  the  desolate  and  lofty  shores,  and  the  vast  fishing-Heets  from  which 
France  and  the  United  States  draw  their  best  seamen.  English  and 
American  yachtsmen  grow  more  familiar  every  year  with  these  coasts, 
and  it  is  becoming  more  common  for  gentlemen  of  our  Eastern  cities 
to  embark  on  tishing-schooners  and  make  the  voyage  to  Labrador  or  the 
Banks. 

The  tourist  can  also  reach  the  remotest  settlements  on  the  Labrador 


INTRODUCTION. 


h 


ad  in  time, 
tions  of  the 

h  days. 

<t 
<< 

(C 

(t 
(( 
(( 
t< 
<t 
t( 

days. 

discretion 
tes  to  Pas- 
arrsboro'), 
jouisbourg 
B-trips  will 

one  place, 
d  Halifax, 
'Vick  ;  An- 
addeck,  in 
iland.  At 
surround- 


)een  given 
travellers 
ndland  is 
iried  phe- 
I  herds  of 
am  which 
jlish  and 
e  coasts, 
Jrn  cities 
or  or  the 

Labrador 


coast  by  the  steamship  lines  from  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  and  thence 
to  Battle  Harbor.  Tliis  route  takes  a  long  period  of  time,  though  the 
expense  is  comparatively  light ;  and  the  accommodations  on  the  steam- 
ships beyond  St.  John's  are  quite  inferior.  A  shorter  circular  tour  may 
be  made  by  taking  the  steamer  from  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  and  at  St. 
John's  embarking  on  the  "Western  Outports  steamship,  which  coasts  along 
the  entire  S.  shore  of  the  island,  and  runs  down  to  Sydney,  C.  B., 
once  a  month.  From  Sydney  the  tourist  can  return  to  Halifax  (or  St. 
John,  N.  B.)  by  way  of  the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.  The  Western  Outports 
steamship  also  visits  the  quaint  French  colony  at  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon 
fortnightly,  and  tlie  traveller  can  stop  off  there  and  return  directly  to 
Halifax  by  the  Anglo-French  steamship,  which  leaves  St.  Pierre  fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sickness.    The  chief  beneiit  to  be  derived  on  these  routes  is  the 
invigoration  of  tlie  bracing  air  of  the  northern  sea.     Persons  who  are 
liable  to  sea-sickness  should  avoid  the  Newfoundland  trip,  since  rough 
weather  is  frequently  experienced  there,  and  the  stewards  are  neither  as 
numerous  nor  as  dexterous  as  those  on  the  transatlantic  steamships.    The 
Editor  is  tempted  to  insert  here  a  bit  of  personal  experience,  showing 
how  the  results  of  early  experiences,  combined  with  the  advice  of  veteran 
travellers,  have  furnished  him  with  a  code  of  rules  which  are  useful  against 
the  inal  du  mer  in  all  its  forms.    During  28  days  on  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  and  45  days  on  the  Canadian  waters,  the  observance  of  these  simple 
rul(is  prevented  sickness,  although  every  condition  of  weather  was  expe- 
rienced, from  the  fierce  simoom  of  the  Lybian  Desert  to  the  icy  gales  of 
Labrador.     The  chief  rule,  to  which  the  others  are  but  corollaries,  is, 
Don't  think  of  your  physical  self.    Any  one  in  perfect  health,  who  will 
busy  himself  for  an  hour  in  thinking  about  the  manner  in  which  his 
breath  is  inhaled,  or  in  which  his  eyes  perform  their  functions,  will  soon 
feel  ill  at  ease  in  his  lungs  or  eyes,  and  can  only  regain  tranquillity  by 
banishing  the  disturbing  thoughts.     Avoid,  therefore,  this  gloomy  and 
apprehensive  self -contemplation,  and  fill  the  mind  with  bright  and  en- 
grossing themes,  —  the  conversation  of  merry  companions,  the  exciting 
vicissitudes  of  card-playing,  or  the  marvellous  deeds  of  some  hero  of  ro- 
mance.   Never  think  of  your  throat  and  stomach,  nor  think  of  thinking 
or  not  thinking  of  them,  but  forget  that  such  conveniences  exist.     Keep 
on  deck  as  much  as  possible,  warmly  wrapped  up,  and  inhaling  the  salty 
air  of  the  sea.    Don't  stay  in  the  lee  of  the  funnel,  where  the  smell  of  oil 
is  nauseating.    And  if  you  are  still  ill  at  ease,  lie  down  in  your  state- 
room, with  the  port-hole  slightly  opened,  and  go  to  sleep.    The  tourist 
should  purchase,  before  leaving  Halifax,  two  or  three  lively  novels,  a  flask 
of  fine  brandy,  a  bottle  of  pickled  limes,  and  a  dozen  lemons. 


4 


INTRODUCTION. 


III.    Money  and  Travelling  Expenses* 

The  tourist  will  experience  great  inconvenience  from  the  lack  of  a  uni- 
form currency  in  the  Provinces.  If  he  carries  New-Brunswick  money  into 
Nova  Scotia  or  Quebec,  it  can  only  be  passed  at  a  discount ;  and  the  same 
is  true  with  Nova-Scotia  or  Quebec  bills  in  either  of  the  other  Provinces. 
There  appears  to  be  no  standard  currency  in  circulation.  To  save  fre- 
quent discounts,  it  is  best  for  the  tourist  to  carry  U.  S.  money,  changing 
it,  in  each  Province,  for  the  amount  of  local  currency  that  he  will  be 
likely  to  need  there.  Respectable  shop-keepers  in  the  cities  take  U.  S. 
money  in  payment  for  their  goods,  valuing  it  at  the  rate  at  which  it  is 
quoted  on  the  local  exchange.  It  is,  however,  more  economical  and  con- 
venient to  take  the  U.  S.  money  to  an  exchange  office  and  buy  as  much 
of  the  local  currency  as  will  be  needed  during  the  sojourn.  Tlie  shop- 
keepers are  apt  to  charge  at  least  full  prices  to  people  who  have  Amer- 
ican money. 

The  silver  coins  of  this  country  co\ild  only  be  defined  in  a  lengthy 
numismatical  treatise.  There  are  half-crowns,  two-shilling  pieces,  flor- 
ins, shillings,  and  several  smaller  grades  of  English  coins,  independent 
and  varying  silver  and  copper  tokens  of  each  of  the  Lower  Provinces,  the 
money  of  Newfoundland,  and  large  quantities  of  American  silver.  The 
latter  is  very  unstable  in  its  valuation,  since  a  25-cent  piece  goes  for  from 
20  to  24  cents  in  the  same  city  and  on  the  same  day,  the  rate  of  ex- 
change apparently  depending  on  the  time  of  day  and  the  mood  of  the 
shop-keeper.  Nova-Scotian  or  Canadian  money  is  held  at  a  heavy  dis- 
count in  Newfoundland,  and  it  is  better  to  carry  greenbacks  there. 

IV.    Bailways  and  Steamboats. 

The  new-bom  railway  system  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  bp'ng  ex- 
tended rapidly  on  all  sides,  by  the  energy  of  private  corporations  and 
the  liberality  of  the  Canadian  Government.  The  lines  are  generally  well 
and  securely  constructed,  on  English  principles  of  solidity,  and  are  not 
yet  burdened  by  such  a  pressure  of  traffic  as  to  render  travelling  in  any 
way  dangerous.  The  cars  are  built  on  the  American  plan,  and  are  suf- 
ficiently comfortable.  On  most  trains  there  are  no  accommodations  for 
smokers,  and,  generally,  when  any  such  convenience  exists,  it  is  only  to 
be  had  in  the  second-class  cars.  Pullman  cars  were  introduced  on  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  in  1874,  and  will  probably  be  retained  there  during 
the  summer  seasons.  They  have  been  used  on  the  European  and  North 
American  road  for  three  years.  There  are  restaurants  at  convenient  dis- 
tances on  the  lines,  where  the  trains  stop  long  enough  for  passengers  to 
take  their  meals.  Tlie  narrow-gauge  cars  on  Prince  Edward  Island  and 
on  the  New  Brunswick  Raih/ay  will  attract  the  attention  of  travellers, 
on  account  of  their  singular  construction.    The  tourist  has  choice  of 


1 


4 


INTRODUCTION. 


of  a  uni- 
oney  into 
the  same 
'rovinces. 
save  fre- 
changing 
5  will  be 
ike  U.  S. 
ach  it  is 
and  con- 
as  much 
'he  shop- 
ve  Amer- 

lengthy 
ces,  flor- 
ependent 
noes,  the 
er.  The 
for  from 
te  of  ex- 
d  of  the 
eavy  dis- 


*^'ng  ex- 

ons  and 

illy  well 

are  not 

in  any 
are  suf- 
ions  for 
only  to 

on  the 
'  during 
I  North 
mt  dis- 
igers  to 
nd  and 
i^ellers, 
Qice  of 


three  grades  of  accommodation  on  the  chief  railways,  —  Pullman  car, 
first  class,  and  second  class.  The  latter  mode  of  travelling  is  very  un- 
comfortable. 

The  steamships  which  ply  along  these  coasts  afford  material  for  a 
naval  museum.  At  least  two  vessels  of  the  Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports 
fleet  were  captured  blockade-runners ;  the  Edgar  Stuart  was  one  of  the 
most  daring  of  the  Cuban  supply-ships,  and  was  nearly  the  cause  of 
a  battle  between  the  Spanish  steamer  Tornado  and  the  U.  S.  frigate 
Wyoming,  in  the  harbor  of  Aspinwall ;  the  M.  A.  Starr  was  built  for 
a  British  gunboat ;  it  is  claimed  that  the  Virgo  was  intended  for  a  U.  S. 
man-of-war ;  and  there  are  several  other  historic  vessels  now  engaged  in 
these  peaceful  pursuits.  Good  accommodations  are  given  on  the  vessels 
which  ply  between  Boston  and  St.  John  and  to  Halifax  and  Prince  Ed- 
ward Island.  The  cabins  of  the  Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  steamships  are 
elegantly  fitted  up,  and  are  airy  and  spacious.  The  Annapolis,  Minas, 
Prince  Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland  lines  have  comfortable  accom- 
modations, and  the  Yarmouth  and  North  Shore  vessels  are  also  fairly 
equipped.  The  lines  to  the  Magdalen  Islands,  St.  Pierre,  and  along  the 
Newfoundland  and  Labrador  coasts  are  primarily  intended  for  the  trans- 
portation of  freight,  and  for  successfully  encountering  rough  weather  and 
heavy  seas,  and  have  small  cabins  and  plain  fare.  The  Saguenay  steam- 
ers resemble  the  better  class  of  American  river-boats,  and  have  fine 
accommodations.  Since  the  Canadas  are  under  the  English  social  system 
and  have  retained  the  Old-World  customs,  it  will  be  found  expedient,  in 
many  cases,  to  conciliate  the  waiters  and  stev;ards  by  small  gifts  of 
money.  As  the  results  thereof,  the  state-rooms  will  be  better  cared  for, 
and  the  meals  will  be  more  promptly  and  generously  served. 

The  Mail-Stages.  — The  remoter  districts  of  the  Provinces  are  visited 
by  lines  of  stages.  The  tourist  will  naturally  be  deceivetl  by  the  grandil- 
oquent titles  of  "  Royal  Mail  Stage,"  or  "  Her  Majesty's  Mail  Route," 
and  suppose  that  some  reflected  stateliness  will  invest  the  vehicles  that 
bear  such  august  names.  In  point  of  fact,  and  with  but  two  or  three 
exceptions,  the  Provincial  stages  are  far  from  corresponding  to  such  ex- 
pectations ;  being,  in  most  cases,  the  rudest  and  plainest  carriages,  some- 
times drawn  by  but  one  horse,  and  "sually  unprovided  with  covers.  The 
fares,  however,  are  very  low,  for  this  class  of  transportation,  and  a  good 
rate  of  speed  is  usually  kept  up. 

V.    Bound-Trip  Ezoursions. 

During  the  summer  and  early  autumn  the  railway  and  steamship  com- 
panies prepare  lists  of  excursions  at  greatly  reduced  prices.  Information 
and  lists  of  these  routes  may  be  obtained  of  George  F.  Field,  General 
Passenger  Agent  of  the  Eastern  R.  R.,  134  Washington  St.,  Boston ;  T. 


'^^ff^- 


"% 


c 


INTRODUCTION. 


i 

i 

> 


'\i 


Edward  Bond,  Ticket  Agent  of  the  Central  Vennont  R.  R,,  148  Washing, 
ton  St.,  Boston ;  and  from  Stevenson  and  Leve,  Passenger  Agents  of  the 
Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  S.  S.  Co.,  Quebec.  Small  books  are  issued  tvery 
spring  by  these  companies,  each  giving  several  hundred  combinations  of 
routes,  with  their  prices.  They  may  be  obtained  on  application,  in  person 
or  by  letter,  at  the  above-mentioned  offices.  The  excursion  tickets  are 
good  during  the  season,  and  have  all  the  privileges  of  first-class  tickets. 
The  following  tours,  selected  from  the  books  of  the  three  companies  (for 
1874),  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  pecuniary  expense  incurred  in  a 
trip  through  the  best  sections  of  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

The  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  — (Excursion  139.)  International  steam- 
ship, Boston  to  St.  John ;  St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  route ; 
Halifax  to  Pictou,  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway;  Pictou  to  Quebec,  by 
the  Q.  &  G.  P.  steamships  (meals  and  state-room  extra) ;  Quebec  to  Mon- 
treal, by  the  Richelieu  steamer,  or  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  Quebec  to 
Boston,  by  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  Fare,  $34.50;  or  if  the  Eastern 
Railroad  is  preferred  between  Boston  and  St.  John,  $36.50. 

Boston  to  Portland,  by  Eastern  R.  R. ;  N.  E.  &  N.  S.  S.  S.  Co.  to  Hali- 
fax ;  Halifax  to  Point  du  Chene,  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway ;  Point  du 
Chene  to  Quebec,  by  Q.  &  G.  P.  S.  S.  Co. ;  Quebec  lo  Montreal,  by  rail- 
way or  steamer ;  Montreal  to  Boston,  by  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R. 
Fare,  $33.35. 

Boston  to  Montreal,  by  Central  Vt.  R.  R.  and  connections ;  Montreal 
to  Quebec,  by  railway  or  steamer ;  Quebec  to  Point  du  Chene,  by  Q.  & 
G.  P.  steamship ;  Point  du  Chene  to  St.  John,  by  Intercolonial  Railway ; 
St.  John  to  Boston,  by  International  steamship.     Fare,  $29.15. 

Eastern  R.  R.  —  Boston  to  St.  John,  by  rail ;  St.  John  to  Point  du 
Chene,  by  Intercolonial  Railway ;  Point  du  Chene  to  Quebec,  by  Quebec 
and  Gulf  Ports  S.  S.  Co. ;  Quebec  to  Boston,  by  Grand  Trunk  and  East- 
em  Railways.    Fare,  $35.65. 

Boston  to  St.  John  and  Shediac,  by  rail;  Shediac  to  Summerside,  Char- 
lottetown,  and  Pictou,  by  steamship  ;  Pictou  to  Halifax,  by  rail ;  Halifax 
to  St.  John,  by  the  Annapolis  route ;  St.  John  to  Boston,  by  rail.  Fare, 
$34.10. 

Boston  to  Portland,  by  rail ;  Portland  to  St.  John,  by  steamer ;  St. 
John  to  Halifax,  by  Annapolis  route ;  Halifax  to  St.  John,  by  Intercolo- 
nial Railway ;  St.  John  to  Boston,  by  rail.    Fare,  $  26.50. 

Quebec  and  O  f  Ports  S.  S.  Co.  —  Boston  to  Pictou,  by  the  Boston 
and  Colonial  S.  S.  Co. ;  Pictou  to  Quebec,  by  the  Q.  &  G.  P.  S.  S.  Co. 
Fare,  $  21 ;  fare  from  Quebec  to  Boston,  $  10. 

Boston  to  Halifax,  by  Boston  and  Colonial  S.  S.  Co. ;  Halifax  to  St. 
John,  by  the  Annapolis  route ;  St.  John  to  Point  du  Chene,  by  Inter- 
colonial Railway ;  Point  du  Chene  to  Quebec,  by  Q.  &  G.  P.  S.  S.  Co. 
Fare,  $26.50. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Washing, 
its  of  tlie 
ued  tvery 
nations  of 
in  person 
ickets  are 
ss  tickets, 
tanies  (for 
urred  in  a 

lal  steam- 
is  route; 
Juebec,  hy 
!C  to  Mon- 
Quebec  to 
»e  Eastern 

>.  to  Hali- 

Point  du 

1,  by  rail- 

)nt  R.  R. 

Montreal 
i,  by  Q.  & 
Railway ; 

Point  du 
)y  Quebec 
and  East- 

ide,  Char- 
;  Halifax 
1.    Fare, 

mer;  St. 
ntercolo- 

B  Boston 
5.  S.  Co. 

x  to  St. 
y  Jnter- 
3.  S.  Co. 


Boston  to  Portland,  by  Eastern  R.  R. ;  Portland  to  «t.  John,  by  Inter- 
national S.  S.  Co. ;  St.  John  to  Point  du  Chene,  by  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way ;  Point  du  Chene  to  Quebec,  by  Q.  &  G.  P.  S.  S.  Co.    Fare,  $  19. 

71.    Hotels. 

The  Hotels  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  are  far  behind  the  age.  The 
Victoria  Hotel,  at  SI.  John,  is  the  only  first-class  house  in  the  four  Prov- 
inces, though  the  two  chief  hotels  at  Halifax  are  comfortable.  Tlio 
Island  Park  Hotel,  at  Summerside,  P.  E.  I.,  is  the  only  summer  resort 
of  any  consequence.  The  general  rates  at  the  better  hotels  of  the  second 
class  is  $2  a  day ;  and  the  village  inns  and  country  taverns  charge  from 
$  1  to  $  1.50,  with  reductions  for  boarders  by  the  week. 

YII.    Language. 

The  English  language  will  be  found  sufficient,  unless  the  tourist  desires 
to  visit  the  more  remote  districts  of  Cape  Breton,  or  the  Acadian  Sittle- 
ments.  The  Gaelic  is  probably  the  predominant  language  on  Cape  Breton, 
but  English  is  also  spoken  in  the  chief  villages  and  fishing-communities. 
In  the  more  secluded  farming-districts  among  the  highlands  the  Gaelic 
tongue  is  more  generally  used,  and  the  tourist  may  sometimes  find  whole 
•families,  not  one  of  whom  can  speak  English. 

In  the  villages  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  and  especially  on  the 
North  Shore,  the  French  language  is  in  common  use,  and  English  is 
nearly  unknown.  The  relation  of  this  language  to  the  polite  French 
speech  of  the  present  day  is  not  clearly  understood,  and  it  is  frequently 
stigmatized  by  Americans  as  "an  unintelligible  patois."  This  state- 
ment is  erroneous.  The  Canadian  French  has  borrowed  from  the  Eng- 
lish tongue  a  few  nautical  and  political  terms,  and  has  formed  for  itself 
words  describing  the  peculiar  phenomena  and  conditions  of  nature  in  the 
new  homes  of  the  people.  The  Indians  have  also  contributed  numerous 
terms,  descriptive  of  the  animals  and  their  habits,  and  the  operations  of 
forest-life.  But  the  interpolated  words  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  the 
language  is  as  intelligible  as  when  brought  from  the  North  of  France,  two 
centuries  ago.  It  is  far  closer  in  its  resemblance  to  the  Parisian  speech 
than  are  the  dialects  of  one  fourth  of  the  departments  of  France.  Trav- 
ellers and  immigrants  from  Old  France  find  no  difficulty  in  conversing 
with  the  Lower-Canadians,  and  the  aristocracy  of  Quebec  speak  as  pure 
an  idiom  as  is  used  in  the  Faubourg  St.  Germain.  Among  others  whose 
testimony  has  been  given  in  support  of  this  fact,  the  Editor  would  adduce 
a  gentleman  whom  he  recently  met  in  Canada,  and  who  was  an  officer  in 
the  Imperial  Guard  until  its  capture  in  the  Franco-Prussian  war.  He 
stated  that  neither  he  nor  any  of  his  compatriots,  who  came  over  after 
the  triumph  of  Germany,  had  ever  had  any  difficulty  with  the  Canadian 
language,  and  that  he  had  not  yet  learned  a  word  of  English. 


m 


8 


INTRODUCTION. 


-ill 


li  ii'i 


"    II 

"  II 


This  language  has  an  extensive  and  interesting  literature,  which  in- 
cludes science,  theology,  history,  romance,  and  poetry.  It  has  also 
numerous  newspapers  and  magazines,  and  is  kept  from  adulteration  by 
the  vigilance  of  several  colleges  and  a  powerful  university.  It  is  used, 
co-ordinately  with  the  English  language,  in  the  records  and  journals  of 
the  Dominion  and  Provincial  Parliaments,  and  speeches  and  pleadings 
in  French  are  allowable  before  the  Parliaments  and  courts  of  Canada. 

Thus  much  to  prove  the  substantial  identity  of  the  Lower-Canadian  and 
French  languages.  The  tourist  who  wishes  to  ramble  through  the  an- 
cient French-Canadian  districts  will,  therefore,  get  on  very  well  if  he  has 
travelled  much  in  Old  France.  But  if  the  language  is  unknown  to  him, 
he  will  be  subjected  to  many  inconveniences  and  hardships. 

VIII.    Climate  and  Dress. 

The  more  northerly  situation  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  their  vicin- 
ity, on  so  many  sides,  to  the  sea,  render  the  climate  even  more  severe  and 
uncertain  than  that  of  New  England.  T^e  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
much  farther  apart  than  in  the  corresponding  latitudes  of  Europe,  and, 
as  Marmier  expresses  it,  this  region  "combines  the  torrid  climate  of 
southern  regions  with  the  severity  of  an  hyperborean  winter."  During 
the  brief  but  lovely  summer  the  atmosphere  is  clear  and  balmy,  and 
vegetation  flourishes  amaino  The  winters  are  long  and  severe,  but  ex- 
ercise no  evil  effect  on  the  people,  nor  restrain  the  merry  games  of  the 
youths.  Ever  since  Knowles  sent  to  England  his  celebrated  dictum  that 
the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  consisted  of  "  nine  months  of  winter  and  three 
months  of  fog,"  the  people  of  Britain  and  America  have  had  highly  ex- 
aggerated ideas  of  the  severity  of  the  seasons  in  the  Provinces.  Tliese 
statements  are  not  borne  out  by  the  facts ;  and,  though  Nova  Scotia 
and  New  Brunswick  have  not  the  mild  skies  of  Virginia,  their  coldest 
weather  is  surjiassed  by  the  winters  of  the  Northwestern  States.  Tlie 
meteorological  tables  and  the  physical  condition  of  the  people  prove  that 
the  climate,  though  severe,  is  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  time  has 
gone  by  for  describing  these  Provinces  as  a  gloomy  land  of  frozen  Hyper- 
boreans, and  for  decrying  them  with  pessimistic  pen. 

The  worst  annoyance  experienced  by  tourists  is  the  prevalence  of  dense 
fogs,  which  sometimes  sweep  in  suddenly  from  the  sea  and  brood  over  the 
cities.  In  order  to  encounter  such  unwelcome  visitations,  and  also  to  be 
prepared  against  fresh  breezes  on  the  open  sea,  travellers  should  be  pro- 
vided with  heavy  shawls  or  overcoats,  and  woollen  underclothing  should 
be  kept  at  hand. 

IX.    Fishing. 

"  Anglers  in  the  United  States  who  desire  to  fish  a  salmon-river  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada  should  club  together  and  apply  for  the  fluvial  paita 


^ 


INTRODUCTION. 


9 


■which  in- 
'  has  also 
teration  by 
It  is  used, 
journals  of 

pleadings 
'anada. 
nadian  and 
gh  the  an- 
1  if  he  has 
wn  to  him, 


their  vicin- 
severe  and 
«d  cold  are 
irope,  and, 
climate  of 
During 
almy,  and 
•e,  but  ex- 
mes  of  the 
ictum  that 
■  and  three 
highly  ex- 
is.    These 
>va  Scotia 
ir  coldest 
■tes.    The 
irove  tlint 
time  has 
sn  Hyper- 

!  of  dense 
[  over  the 
vlso  to  be 
1  be  pro- 
g  should 


er  in  the 

ial  paitd 


of  rivers The  government  leases  the  rivers  for  a  term  of  nine  years, 

and  rivers  unlet  on  the  first  day  of  each  year  are  advertised  by  the  gov- 
ernment to  be  let  to  the  highest  bidders.  The  places  of  residence  of  those 
tendering  for  fishings  are  not  considered  in  letting  a  river ;  and  if  a  gen- 
tleman from  the  States  overbids  a  Canadian,  the  river  will  be  declared  as 
his.    Rivers  are  therefore  hired  by  Europeans  as  well  as  by  Canadians 

and  citizens  of  the  States Rivers  are  either  let  in  whole  or  parts, 

each  part  permitting  the  use  of  a  given  number  of  rods,  generally  four. 
Parties  who  desire  to  lease  a  Canadian  river  should  address  a  letter  to  the 
Minister  of  Marine  and  Fisheries,  at  Ottawa,  stating  how  many  rods  they 
have,  and  the  district  which  they  prefer  to  fish.  He  will  forward  them 
a  list  of  the  leasable  rivers,  and  a  note  of  information,  upon  which  they 
should  get  some  Canadian  to  make  the  tender  for  them.  The  leases  of 
fluvial  parts  of  rivers  vary  from  two  to  six  hundred  dollars  a  year  for 
from  three  to  eight  rods,  and  the  price  for  guides  or  gaffers  is  a  dollar  a 
day."  (This  subject  is  fully  discussed  in  Scott's  "  Fisliing  in  American 
Waters.") 

"  The  Game  Fish  of  the  Northern  States  and  British  Provinces,"  by 
R>>bert  B.  Roosevelt  (published  by  Carleton,  of  New  York,  in  1865), 
contains  an  account  of  the  salmon  and  sea-trout  fishing  of  Canada  and 
New  Brunswick.  The  pursuit  of  sea-trout  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 
and  Laval  is  described  in  pages  50-88  and  315-321;  the  Labrador  rivers, 
pages  107  -  111  ;  the  Miraniichi  and  Nepisiguit  Rivers,  pages  111  - 145 ; 
the  Schoodic  Lakes,  pages  145-147. 

"  Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  by  Genio  C.  Scott  (published  by  Har- 
per and  Brothers,  1869),  contains  practical  directions  to  sportsmen,  and 
graphic  descriptions  of  fishing  in  the  rivers  of  New  Brunswick  and  Lower 
Quebec. 

"  Frank  Forester's  Fish  and  Fishing  of  the  United  States  and  British 
Provinces  of  North  America,"  by  H.  W.  Herbert  (New  York,  1850),  is  to 
a  large  extent  technical  and  scientific,  and  contains  but  a  few  incidental 
allusions  to  the  provincial  fisheries. 

"  The  Fishing  Tourist,"  by  Charles  Hallock  (published  by  Harper  and 
Brothers,  1873),  contains  about  100  pages  of  pleasant  descriptions  relat- 
ing to  the  Schoodic  Lakes,  the  best  trout  and  salmon  streams  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  Cape  Breton,  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  Sague- 
nay  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  Anticosti,  and  Labrador. 

IX.   Miscellaneous  Notes. 

The  times  of  departure  of  the  provincial  steamships  are  liable  to  change 

every  season.    The  tables  given  in  the  ensuing  routes  are  based  on  those 

of  1874,  and  the  changes  for  1875  are  indicated  so  far  as  the  Editor  has 

been  able  to  learn  tliem.    The  tourist  can  find  full  particulars  of  the  days 

1* 


10 


INTRODUCTION. 


of  sailing,  etc.,  on  arriving  at  St.  John,  from  the  local  and  the  Halifax 
newspapers.  The  names  of  the  agents  of  these  lines  have  also  been  given 
liereinafter,  and  further  information  may  be  obtained  by  writing  to  their 
addresses. 

Tlie  custom-house  formalities  at  the  national  frontiers  depend  less  upon 
the  actual  laws  than  upon  the  men  who  execute  them.  The  examinatioH 
of  baggage  is  usually  conducted  in  a  lenient  manner,  but  trunks  and 
packages  are  sometimes  detained  on  account  of  the  presence  of  too  many 
Canadian  goods.  It  is  politic,  as  well  as  gentlemanly,  for  the  tourist  to 
afford  the  officers  every  facility  for  the  inspection  of  his  baggage. 

Travellers  are  advised  to  carefully  inspect  the  prices  of  goods  offered 
them  by  shop-keepers,  since  the  lavish  and  unquestioning  extravagance 
of  American  tourists  has  somewhat  influenced  the  tone  of  commercial 
morality. 

The  people  of  the  Provinces  are  generally  courteous,  and  are  willing  to 
answer  any  civilly  put  questions.  The  inhabitants  of  the  more  remote 
districts  are  distinguished  for  their  hospitality,  and  are  kindly  disposed 
and  honest. 


1 


^ 


le  Halifax 

[been  given 

ig  to  their 

leas  upon 

aniinatioH 

trunks  and 

too  many 

tourist  to 

;e. 

|ods  offered 
:travagance 
commercial 

3  willing  to 
lore  remote 
ly  disposed 


ROUTES    FROM    BOSTON    TO    THE    MARITIME 

PROVINCES. 


1.    By  Rnilway. 

The  Eastern  and  Maine  Central  R.  R.  Lines  afford  the  best  mode  of  ap- 
proach by  land.  Their  trains  leave  the  terminal  station  on  Causeway  St., 
Boston,  and  run  through  to  Bangor,  without  change  of  cars.  Pullman  cars 
are  attached  to  the  through  trains,  and  tickets  are  sold  to  nearly  all  points* 
in  the  Eastern  Provinces.  At  Bangor  passengers  change  to  the  cars  of 
the  European  &  North  American  R.  R.,  which  runs  E.  through  the  great 
forests  of  Maine  and  New  Brunswick  to  the  city  of  St.  John.  Between 
Boston  and  Portland  this  route  traverses  a  peculiarly  interesting  country, 
with  frequent  glimpses  of  the  sea;  but  the  country  between  Bangor  and 
St.  John  is  almost  devoid  of  attractions. 

The  Boston  <f  Maine  R.  R.  may  also  be  used  as  an  avenue  to  the  Eastern 
Provinces,  though  the  Editor  does  not  know  what  connections  (if  any)  it 
makes  at  Portland  with  the  lines  to  the  Eastward. 


2.    By  Steamship. 

The  International  Steamship  Company  despatches  vessels  three  times 
weekly  from  June  15  to  October  1,  leaving  Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  at 
8  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.  They  touch  at  Portland, 
which  is  left  at  6  p.  m.  ;  and  afterwards  they  run  along  the  Maine  coast, 
calling  at  Eastport  and  traversing  Passamoquoddy  Bay.  Fares,  —  from 
Boston  to  Eastport,  $  5 ;  to  St.  John,  $  5.50. 

The  steamers  of  the  Portland  Steam  Packet  Company  leave  India  Wharf, 
Boston,  every  morning,  running  along  the  New  England  coast  to  Portland. 
At  that  city  they  connect  with  the  fine  steamship  Falm&uth,  which  leaves 
Portland  every  Saturday  at  5.30  p.  M.,  stretching  out  over  the  open  sea, 
and,  beyond  Cape  Sable,  following  the  Nova-Scotia  coast  to  Halifax. 

Clements'  Line  affords  the  most  convenient  route  to  visit  the  famous 
hunting  and  fishing  grounds  of  the  western  counties  of  Nova  Scotia.    The 


12 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 


steamship  Dominion  leaves  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  every  Tuesday  noon,  for 
Yarmouth  and  St.  John,  giving  an  exhilarating  voyage  across  the  open 
sea. 

The  Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island  Steamship  Line  despatch 
vessels  from  T  Wharf,  Boston,  every  Saturday  at  noon.  After  reaching 
Halifax  these  steamships  run  N.  E.  along  the  Nova-Scotia  coast,  round 
Cape  Canso,  and  traverse  the  picturesque  Gut  of  Canso.  They  coll  at 
Pictou  and  then  run  across  to  Charlotfetown.  By  leaving  the  vessel  at 
Port  Hawkesbury,  the  tourist  can  easily  reach  the  Bras  d'Or  and  other 
parts  of  the  island  of  Cape  Breton. 

8.    Routes  by  way  of  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Montreal  may  be  reached  by  either  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.,  the  Mon- 
treal &  Boston  Short  Line  (Passumpsic  R.  R.),  or  the  Eastern  and  Grand 
Trunk  lines.  These  routes  are  all  described  in  Osgood's  New  England:  a 
Handbook  for  Travellers  (revised  up  to  1875).  The  most  picturesque 
route  from  Quebec  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  by  the  vessels  of  the  Que- 
bec &  Gulf  Ports  Steamship  Company,  which  leave  every  week  for  the 
eastern  ports  of  Quebec,  New  Brunswick,  and  Nova  Scotia,  connecting 
with  the  local  lines  of  travel.  It  now  seems  improbable  that  the  Interco- 
lonial Railway  can  be  opened  to  travel  from  (Quebec  and)  Rividre  de  Loup 
to  Moncton  and  Halifax  this  year. 


4 


Further  particulars  about  these  lines  and  their  accommodations,  the  days 
on  which  they  depart  for  Boston,  etc.,  may  be  found  in  their  advertise- 
ments, which  are  grouped  at  the  end  of  the  book.  There,  also,  may  be 
found  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  agents  of  the  lines,  from  whom  other 
information  may  be  obtained,  by  letter  or  by  personal  application.  The 
main  question  for  the  summer  tourist  will  naturally  be  whether  he  shall 
go  eastward  by  rail  or  by  a  short  sea-voyage.  The  Editor  has  travelled 
on  each  of  the  above-mentioned  lines  (with  one  exception)  and  on  some  of 
them  several  times,  and  has  found  them  well  equipped  and  comfortable. 


','t 


■k.. 


s. 


noon,  for 
the  open 

despntch 

reaching 

st,  round 

7  call  at 

vessel  at 

ind  other 


the  Mon- 
id  Grand 
gland:  a 
turesque 
the  Que- 
for  the 
nnecting 
Interco- 
de  Loup 


the  days 
dvertise- 
may  be 
>m  other 
n.  The 
he  shall 
ravelled 
some  of 
;able. 


MARITIME-PROVINCES  HANDBOOK. 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

The  Province  of  New  Brunswick  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
North  Temperate  Zone,  and  is  bounded  by  Maine  and  Quebec  on  the  W., 
Quebec  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
the  Northumberland  Strait  on  the  E.,  and  Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  on  the  S.  It  is  140  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  190  M.  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  contains  27,106  square  miles.  The  direct  coast-line  (exclusive  of 
indentations)  is  410  M.,  which  is  nearly  equally  divided  between  the  S. 
and  E.  shores,  and  is  broken  by  many  fine  harbors.  The  Bay  of  Fundy 
on  the  S.,  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  are  of  great  size  and  com- 
mercial importance,  —  the  former  being  140  M.  long  by  30-50  M.  wide; 
the  latter  being  90  M.  long  by  10  -  25  M.  wide.  The  fisheries  in  the  great 
"  bays  and  in  the  Gulf  are  of  immense  value,  employing  many  thousand 
men,  and  attracting  large  American  fleets.  They  have  furnished  suste- 
nance to  the  people  of  the  maritime  counties,  and  have  been  the  occasion 
of  developing  a  race  of  skilful  mariners.  During  the  past  50  years  6,000 
vessels  have  been  built  in  this  Province,  valued  at  nearly  $80,000,000. 
The  lumber  business  is  conducted  on  a  vast  scale  on  all  the  rivers,  and 
the  product  amounts  to  $4,000,000  a  year. 

The  country  is  generally  level,  and  is  crossed  by  low  ridges  in  the  N. 
and  W.  There  are  numerous  lakes,  whose  scenery  is  generally  of  a  sombre 
and  monotonous  character.  The  interior  is  traversed  by  the  rivers  St. 
John,  Restigouche,  Miramichi,  Petitcodiac,  Nepisiguit,  and  Richibucto, 
which,  with  their  numerous  tributaries,  afford  extensive  facilities  for  boat- 
navigation.  The  river-fisheries  of  New  Brunswick  are  renowned  for  their 
»j       variety  and  richness,  and  attract  many  American  sportsmen. 

There  are  14,000,000  acres  of  arable  land  in  the  Province,  a  great  por- 
tion of  which  has  not  yet  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The  intervales 
of  the  rivers  contain  60,000  acres,  and  are  very  rich  and  prolific,  being 
fertilized  by  annual  inundations.  The  chief  agricultural  products  are 
wheat,  buckwheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  butter,  and  cheese  ;  but  farming 
operations  are  still  carried  on  in  an  antiquated  and  unscientific  manner. 

The  climate  is  less  inclement  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  than  farther  inland. 

The  mean  temperature  for  the  last  ten  years  at  St.  John  was,  for  the 

#tei      winter,  17^°;  spring,  87^*;  summer,  58°;  autumn,  441".    The  thermom- 


1: 
I 

Y 


14 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


eter  ranges  between  —22'  and  87"  as  the  extremes  marked  during 
past  ten  years. 

The  present  domain  of  New  Brunswick  was  formerly  occupied  by 
distinct  nations  of  Indians.    The  Micmacs  were  an  oflslioot  of  the  Al 
quln  race,  and  inhabited  all  the  sea-shore  regions.    They  were  pow 
and  hardy,  and  made  daring  boatmen  and  fishermen.    The  Milicetesi 
from  the  Huron  nation,  and  inhabited  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  inl 
forests,  being  skilful  in  hunting  and  all  manner  of  woodcraft.    They  i 
less  numerous  and  warlike  than  the  Micmacs.    Both  tribes  had  a  sin 
and  beautiful  theology,  to  which  was  attached  a  multitude  of  qu 
mythological  legends. 

This  region  was  included  in  the  ancient  domain  of  Acadie  (or  Acat 
which  was  granted  to  the  Sieur  De  Monts  by  King  Henri  IV.  of  Frai 
in  1603.    De  Monts  explored  the  St.  .John  River,  and  planted  an  epheni 
colony  on  the  St.  Croix,  in  1604.     From  1635  until  1645  the  St.  John  R 
was  the  scene  of  the  feudal  wars  between  La  Tour  and  Chamisay.    01 
Cromwell  sent  an  expedition  in  1654,  which  occupied  the  country; 
it  was  restored  to  France  by  Charles  II.  in  1670.    After  the  war  of  16 
97,  this  region  was  again  confirmed  to  France,  and  its  W.  boundary  \ 
located  at  the  St.  George  River,  W.  of  Penobscot  Bay.     Meantime 
shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  had  been  i 
tied  by  the  French,  between  1639  and  1672.    The  New-En  glanders  invai 
the  Province  in  1703,  and  in  1713  Acadia  was  ceded  to  England. 

The  French  lir  lited  the  cession  to  Nova  Scotia,  and  fortified  the  line 
the  Missiguash  River,  to  protect  the  domains  to  the  N.  In  1755  a  m 
expedition  from  Boston  took  these  forts,  and  also  the  post  at  St.  Jol 
and  in  1758  the  whole  Province  was  occupied  by  Anglo-American  troc 
In  1763  it  was  surrendered  to  England  by  the  Treaty  of  Versailles. 

The  Americans  made  several  attacks  on  northern  Acadia  during 
Revolutionary  War,  but  were  prevented  from  holding  the  country  by 
British  fleets  at  Halifax.     At  the  close  of  the  war  many  thousands 
American  Loyalists  retired  from  the  United  States  to  this  and  the  adjoj 
ing  countries.     In  1784  New  Brunswick  was  organized  as  a  Provini 
having  been  previously  dependent  on  Nova  Scotia;  and  in  1788  the  en 
tal  was  established  at  Fredericton.    Immigration  from  Great  Britain  ni 
commenced,  and  the  forests  began  to  give  way  before  the  lumbermen. 
1839  the  Province  called  out  its  militia  on  the  occasion  of  the  bounda 
disputes  with  Maine;  and  in  1861  it  was  occupied  with  British  troops 
account  of  the  possibility  of  a  war  with  the  United  States  about  the  Trt 
affair.    In  1866  New  Brunswick  refused,  by  a  popular  vote,  to  enter  t 
Dominion  of  Canada,  but  it  accepted  the  plan  the  next  year,  and  becai 
a  part  of  the  Dominion  in  1867. 

The  population  of  New  Brunswick  was  74,176  in  1824,  154,000  in  18* 
and  285,777  in  1871. 


les  marked  durlnJ 


•merly  occupied  bv 
\  offshoot  of  the  A\ 
.  They  were  pow 
■n.  The  Milicetes 
n  valley  and  the  inl 
ivoodcraft.  They 
>th  tribes  had  a  sin 
a.  multitude  of  qu 

of  Acadie  (or  Acjk 
?  Henri  IV.  of  Frai 
I  planted  an  epheni 
1645  the  St.  John  E 
nd  Chamisay.    Oli 
)ied  the  country; 
ifter  the  war  of  16! 
its  W.  boundary 
Bay.     Meantime 
iwrence  had  been 
iv-Englanders  invai 
to  England, 
d  fortified  the  line 
!  N.    In  1755  a  m 
he  j^ost  at  St.  Jol 
glo- American  troo 
of  Versailles. 
1  Acadia  durinjr 
g  the  country  by 
many  thousands 
this  and  the  adjo 
ized  as  a  Provin 
ind  in  1788  the  ca 
n  Great  Britain  xu 
the  lumbermen 
on  of  the  bounda 
th  British  troops 
ites  about  the  Tn 
ir  vote,  to  enter  t 
:t  year,  and  becai 

24,  154,000  in  181 


•»•>  ;;••'■'■  I 


I 


34.  City  Hall B.  2. 

35.  Market U.  3. 

36.  Martello  Tower ' A.  3. 

37.  Lunatic  Asylum A.  i. 

38.  Church  of  the  Assumption A.  3. 

39.  St.  Jude's A.  4. 

40.  St.  tJcorge's A.  2 


23.  Victoria 

24.  Harncs'i 
15.  Wavcrle 

26.  Royal, 

27.  Internal 

28.  Park,  . . 


L. 


I 


>n, 


....B.  2 
....U.  3 
....A.3 
..  ..A.  1 
....A.3 
,...A.4 
, ...  A.  2 


HOTELS.      . 

23.  Victoria D.  3. 

24.  Barnes's D.  3. 

i$.  Wavcrley I).  3. 

«6.   Royal,    I).  3- 

27.  International D.  3. 

28.  Park E.  3. 


3- 
4- 
5. 
6. 

7- 
8. 

9- 
ij. 
II. 
12. 
IS- 
M- 
'S- 
16. 

17- 
18. 

19- 
20. 
21. 

22. 


Marine  Hospital, D.  4. 

City  Hospital F.  2. 

Wijjgins  Asylum L).  4. 

Cemetery, li-  3. 

Kinjj's  Sijuare E.  3. 

Queen's  Square D.  4. 

Cathedral E.  2,  3. 

Trinity  Church D.  3. 

St.  I'aul's E.  2. 

St.  John's E.  2. 

St.  Andrew's 0.3. 

Intercolonial  Station E.  2. 

E.  &  N.  A.  Station C.  3. 


ft 


ST.   JOHN. 


Route  1.      15 


I 


L  St  John. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  — Soon  after  passing  Negro  Head,  the  stumer  runs 
in  by  Partridge  Island,  the  round  and  rocky  guard  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John.  Its 
precipitous  sides  are  seamed  with  deep  clefts  and  narrow  chasms,  and  on  the  up- 
land are  seen  the  Quarantine  Hospital,  the  buildings  of  the  steam  fog-horn  and  the 
lizhthouse,  and  the  ruins  of  a  cliff  battery.  On  the  1.  is  the  bold  headland  of 
Nesrotown  Point,  crowned  by  dilapidated  earthworks.  The  course  now  leads  in 
by  the  Beacon-light  (1.  side),  with  the  Martello  Tower  on  Carleton  Heights,  and  the 
high-placed  St,  Jude's  Church  on  the  1.  In  front  are  the  green  slopes  and  barrr  ks 
of  the  Military  Grounds,  beyond  which  are  the  populous  hills  of  St.  John. 

Hotels.  —  The  *  Victoria,  corner  of  Duke  and  Germain  Sts.,  is  the  best  hotel  in 
the  Maritime  Provinces.  It  is  centrally  located,  and  accommodates  300  guests ; 
terms,  $  3  a  day.  Barnes's  Hotel,  Prince  William  St.,  near  Princess  St ;  the  Waver- 
ley,  King  St.,  near  King  Square  ($2  a  day) ;  the  Royal,  146  Prince  William  bt;  the 
International,  corner  of  Prince  William  and  Duke  Sts.  The  Park  and  the  Conti- 
nental are  comfortable  hotels  fronting  on  King  Square,  near  which  are  several 
smaller  houses.  The  American  is  a  second-class  hotel  on  lower  King  St. ;  the  Bay 
View  is  on  Prince  William  St.,  near  Reed's  Point. 

Amusements.  -Theatrical  performances  and  other  entertainments  are  fre- 
quently given  at  the  Academy  of  Music,  on  Germain  St.,  near  Duke  St,  The 
Academy  can  accommodate  2,000  people.  Tjectures  and  concerts  aie  given  in  the 
hall  of  the  Mechanics'  Institute,  near  the  head  of  Germain  St.  Varieties  and  min- 
strels at  Lee's  Opera-House,  on  Dock  St. 

Rcading-Ronmg.  —  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  on  Charlotte 
St. ,  near  King  Square ;  open  from  9  a,  m.  until  10  P.  M.  The  Mechanics'  Institute, 
near  the  head  of  Germain  St.,  has  an  extensive  variety  of  British  papers  on  file. 

Carriages.  —  For  a  course  within  the  city,  30c.  for  one  passenger,  10c.  for  each 
additional  one.  For  each  half-hour,  50c.  If  the  river  is  crossed  tlie  passenger  pays 
the  toll,  wliich  is,  for  a  double  carriage,  15c.  each  way  by  ferry,  20c  by  the  bridge. 

Horse-ears  run  from  Market  Square  through  Dock  and  Mill  Sts.,  to  the  ter- 
minus of  the  river  steamboat-Unes,  at  Indiantown  (fare,  5c.). 

Railways.  —The  European  and  North  American  Railway  runs  W.  to  Bangor 
in  206  M.,  connecting  there  with  the  Maine  Central  and  Eastern  lines  for  Boston, 
449  M.  from  St.  John.  The  same  road  also  has  a  branch  to  Fredericton.  The  In- 
tercolonial Railway  runs  E.  to  Shediac,  Truro,  and  Halifax  (276  M. ). 

Steamships.  —  The  Temperley  and  other  lines  run  steamships  occasionally 
between  St.  John  and  Liverpool,  or  London.  The  steamship  Linda  leaves  St.  John 
every  Friday  evening  for  Boston,  touching  at  Yarmouth,  N,  S,  The  International 
Steamship  Company  despatches  one  of  their  vessels  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday  morning,  at  8  o'clock,  for  Boston,  touching  at  Eastportand  Portland,  and 
connecting  with  a  steamer  for  St,  Andrews  and  St,  Stephen.  A  steamer  leaves  the 
Reed's  Point  Wharf,  at  8  a.m.,  every  Thursday  and  ^iturday,  for  St.  George,  St. 
Andrews,  and  St.  Stephen  (calling  at  Beaver  Harbor  on  Saturdays).  The  Empress 
crosses  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Digby  and  Annapolis,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  Friday, 
and  Saturday,  at  8  A.  m.,  connecting  at  Annapolis  with  the  railway  for  Halifax.  A 
steamer  leaves  the  Reed's  Point  Wharf  every  Tuesday  evening  for  Parrsboro',  Wind- 
sor, and  the  ports  on  the  Basin  of  Minas. 

St  John  River  Lines.  — The  David  Weston^ot  the  Union  Line,  leaves  Indiantown 
on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  9  a.  M.,  for  Fredericton  and  the  interme- 
diate landings.  The  Rothesay,  of  the  Express  Line,  leaves  Indiantown  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  9  a.  M.,  for  Fredericton  and  the  intermediate  landings. 
The  May  Queen  leaves  Indiantown  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  at  8  a.  h.,  for 
Oagetown  and  Grand  Lake.  The  Star  leaves  Indiantown  on  Tuesday,  Thursday, 
and  Saturday,  at  10  a.  m.,  Ibr  Cole's  Island  and  the  Washndcmoak  Lake. 

The  Carleton  ferry-steamers  leave  the  foot  of  Princess  St.  every  15  minutes  until 
9.30  P.  M.    Fare,  3c. ;  for  oue-horse  carriages,  9c. ;  for  two-horse  carriages,  15c. 


16      Jtoute  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


% 


t! 


''-\ 


St.  John,  the  chief  city  of  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick  and  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  occupies  a  commanding 
position  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River.  From  its  favorable  situation 
for  the  purposes  of  commerce  it  has  been  termed  "  the  Liverpool  of  Amer- 
ica "  (a  claim,  however,  which  Halifax  stoutly  combats,  and  which  should 
be  limited  at  least  to  "  the  Liverpool  of  Canada").  The  city  has  28,805 
inhabitants  (census  of  1871),  and  the  contiguous  suburb  of  Portland  has 
12,520  more.  The  ridge  upon  which  it  is  built  is  composed  of  solid  rock, 
through  which  streets  have  been  cut  at  great  expense;  and  the  plan  of  the 
streets  is  regular,  including  a  succession  of  rectangular  squares.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  city  is,  however,  somewhat  uneve^,.  and  dingy, 
owing  to  the  difference  in  the  size  of  the  buildings  and  to  the  absence  of 
paint.  The  harbor  is  good,  and  is  kept  free  from  ice  by  the  high  tides  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  sweeping  current  of  the  St.  John  River.  It  is 
usually  well  filled  with  shipping,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  wharves 
and  mills.  The  '.illl-country  in  the  vicinity  is  barren  but  picturesque,  and 
affords  a  variety  of  pleasing  marine  views.  Since  1853  the  water  supply 
of  the  city  has  been  drawn  from  Little  River,  and  the  works  have  a  daily 
capacity  of  5,500,000  gallons.  The  fire  department  has  3  steam-engines, 
but  is  seldom  called  into  service.  Thei-e  arc  26  churches  in  St.  John  and 
Portland,  of  which  the  Baptists  claim  precedence  in  point  of  numbers- 
There  are  4  banks,  and  4  daily  and  several  weekly  newspapers. 

King  Street  is  the  main  business  street  of  the  city,  and  runs  from  the 
harbor  across  the  peninsula  to  Courtenay  Bay.  AH  the  principal  shops 
are  on  this  street,  between  the  harbor  and  King  Square,  and  along  Prince 
William  St.,  which  intersects  it  near  the  water.  At  the  foot  of  the  street 
is  the  Market  Slip,  into  which  the  light  packet-boats  and  produce-vessels 
from  the  adjacent  rural  counties  bring  wood  and  provisions  for  the  use 
of  the  city.  At  low  tide,  these  vessels  are,  for  the  most  part,  left  to 
hold  themselves  up  on  the  muddy  flats.  At  this  point  landed  the  weary 
and  self-exiled  American  Loyalists,  in  1783,  and  founded  the  city  of  St. 
John.  The  rather  dreary  breadth  of  King  St.  is  occupied  in  its  lower 
part  by  wagoners  and  unemployed  workmen.  From  this  point  the  street 
ascends  a  steep  hill,  passing  the  telegraph-office,  police-court,  and  several 
banks  and  hotels.  King  Square  is  entered  through  a  pretentious  "  tri- 
umphal arch"  of  wood,  which  was  erected  in  honor  of  Prince  Arthur's 
visit,  and  has  since  been  utilized  for  sustaining  the  fire-alarm  bell.  The 
Square  is  an  open  space  of  about  3  acres  in  area,  studded  with  young 
trees,  and  adorned  in  the  centre  with  a  small  fountain.  To  the  E.  is  the 
County  Market,  a  narrow  street  filled  with  rude  stalls.  A  few  steps  N.  W. 
of  the  Squai-e  (on  Charlotte  St.)  is  the  new  and  handsome  building  of  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  containing  a  large  hall,  gymnasium, 
parlors,  and  class-rooms.  The  library  and  reading-room  are  open  daily 
(except  Sunday)  from  0  A.  m.  to  10  p.  m.,  and  strangers  are  welcomed. 


•-"^■J 


ST.  JOHN. 


Route  J.       17 


wick  and  the 
commanding 
Irable  situation 
|rpool  of  Amer- 
which  should 
ity  has  28,805 
Portland  has 
of  solid  rock, 
the  plan  of  the 
squares.    The 
ei.  and  dingy, 
Jthe  absence  of 
3  high  tides  of 
n  River.    It  Is 
with  wharves 
cturesque,  and 
3  water  supply 
^s  have  a  daily 
steam-engines, 
[1  St.  John  and 
it  of  numbers. 
)ers. 

'.  runs  from  the 
)rincipal  shops 
d  along  Prince 
)t  of  the  street 
Toduce-vessels 
ns  for  the  use 
t  part,  left  to 
ied  the  weary 
the  city  of  St. 
i  in  its  lower 
oint  the  street 
t,  and  several 
tentious  "  tri- 
ince  Arthur's 
■m  bell.    The 
1  with  young 
)  the  E.  is  the 
iv  steps  N.  W. 
lailding  of  the 
gymnasium, 
■e  open  daily 
re  welcomed. 


The  building  cost  $38,000,  and  was  dedicated  in  1872,  but  subsequently 
gave  signs  of  instability,  and  has  since  been  strengthened  at  considerable 
expense.  The  County  Court  House  and  Jail  arc  at  the  S.  E.  corner  of 
King  Square,  and  are  antiquated  and  homely  stone  buildings.  To  the  E. 
is  tlie  Old  Burying-Ground,  containing  the  graves  of  the  pioneers  of  the 
Province,  with  epitaphs  in  many  cases  quaint  and  interesting.  Trinity 
Church  is  on  Germain  St.,  near  Princess  St.,  and  is  a  large  and  plain 
wooden  building  with  a  spire  and  clock-tower.  It  was  built  in  1788,  and 
has  had  subsequent  additions  and  enlargements.  The  roof  is  sustained 
by  two  lines  of  wooden  columns,  of  the  Doric  order  ;  and  the  walls  are 
adorned  with  mural  tablets  and  with  the  Royal  Arms  which  formerly  be- 
longed to  Trinity  Church  in  New  York,  and  was  brought  here  by  the  Loy- 
alists in  1783,  having  been  rescued  from  the  New  York  church  during  the 
great  fire  of  1776.  Beyond  Trinity  is  St.  Andrew's  Church  (Presbyterian), 
with  its  quaint  interior,  by  the  side  of  '^t.  ;ch  rise  the  lofty  walls  of  the 
Victoria  Hotel.  By  ascending  the  next  street  (Queen)  to  the  1.,  Queen 
Square  is  reached,  —  a  carelessly  kept  park  surrounded  with  dwelling- 
houses.  A  short  distance  to  the  E.,  on  St.  James  Street,  is  the  Wiggins 
Male  Orphan  Institution,  a  new  building  in  Gothic  architecture,  of  red 
and  gray  sandstone.  It  is  the  most  elegant  and  symmetrical  structure 
of  its  size  in  the  Province,  and  cost  over  $  100,000,  but  is  only  adequate 
to  the  accommodation  of  30  orphans.  The  Marine  Hospital  is  in  this 
vicinity. 

A  short  walk  out  Sydney  St.  or  Caermarthen  St.  leads  to  the  Military 
Grounds,  on  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  peninsula.  Here  is  a  spacious 
parade-ground,  which  is  now  used  only  by  the  cricket  and  base-ball 
clubs,  and  barracks  for  the  accommodation  of  2,000  soldiers.  These 
grounds  were  formerly  occupied  by  large  detachments  from  the  British 
army,  whose  officers  were  a  desired  acquisition  to  the  society  of  the  city, 
while  the  military  bands  amused  the  people  by  concerts  on  Queen  Square. 
From  the  Military  Grounds  is  obtained  a  series  of  views  of  the  harbor  and 
bay,  with  Partridge  Island  near  at  hand  in  the  foreground. 

Prince  William  Street  runs  S.  from  Market  Square  to  Reed's  Point,  and 
is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  containing  several  hotels  and 
some  of  the  largest  shops.  Where  it  crosses  Princess  St.,  the  Carleton 
ferry  is  seen  to  the  r.,  and  on  the  1.  is  Ritchie's  Building,  the  headquarters 
of  lawyers  and  Freemasons.  At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  Prince  William  and 
Princess  Sts.  is  the  new  *  Fost-Office,  an  elegant  building  of  gray  sand- 
stone, ornamented  with  columns  of  the  polished  red  granite  of  St.  George. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  clock  tower  100  ft.  high.  The  next  building,  with 
a  classic  front  and  one  wing,  is  occupied  by  the  Bank  of  New  Brunswick, 
beyond  which  is  the  Custom  House,  a  plain  and  massive  stone  building, 
which  dales  from  1 842.  It  is  250  ft.  long,  and  contains  several  of  the 
provincio- national  o  ices,  and  a  storai-signal  station  which  receives  warn- 


l! 


:iS; 


!l 


18      Jioute  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


ings  from  "  Old  Probabilities  "  at  Washington.  The  street  ends  at  Reetti 
Point,  the  headquarters  of  several  lines  of  coasting-steamers,  whence  may 
be  seen  the  Breakwater,  W.  of  the  Military  Grounds. 

At  the  N.  end  of  Germain  St.  is  the  oh  Stone  Church,  a  sanctuary  of 
the  Episcopalians  under  the  invocation  of  St.  John.  Its  square  stone 
tower  is  visible  for  a  long  distance,  on  account  of  the  elevation  of  the  site 
on  which  it  stands.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  brick  Calvin  Church  (Presby- 
terian); and  in  the  same  vicinity  is  the  classic  wooden  front  of  the  Mt- 
chanics'  Institute,  which  has  a  large  hall,  and  is  the  domicile  of  one  of  the 
city  schools.  The  reading-room  is  supplied  with  Canadian  and  British 
newspapers,  and  the  library  contains  about  7,000  volumes  (open  from  2^  to 
5  o'clock).  From  this  point  roads  descend  to  the  water-side  and  to  the 
railway  station  in  the  Valley. 

The  Roman  Catholic  ^CathcJral  is  situated  on  Waterloo  St.,  and  is 
the  largest  church  in  the  Province.  It  is  constructed  of  marble  and  sand- 
stone, in  pointed  architecture,  and  has  a  tall  and  graceful  stone  spire. 
The  interior  is  in  a  style  of  the  severest  simplicity,  the  Gothic  arches  of 
the  clere-story  being  supported  on  plain  and  massive  piers.  The  windows 
are  of  stained  glass,  and  are  very  brilliant  and  rich.  The  chancel  and 
transept  windows  are  large  and  of  fine  design ;  a  rose  window  is  placed  over 
the  organ-loft;  and  the  side  windows  represent  Saints  Bernard,  Dominic, 
Ambrose,  Jerome,  Mark,  Matthew,  Andrew,  Benedict,  Francis,  John, 
Luke,  Augustine,  and  Gregory.  The  building  is  200  ft.  long,  and  110  ft. 
wide  at  the  transepts.  The  Bishop' s  Palace  is  the  fine  sandstone  building 
towards  Cliff  St.,  beyond  which  is  the  extensive  building  of  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  fronting  on  Cliff  St.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
plain  brick  building  of  the  Nunnery.  The  visitor  should  notice,  over  the 
Cathedral  portal  adjacent  to  the  Nunnery,  the  great  marble  bas-relief  of 
the  Last  Supper  (after  Leonardo  Da  Vinci's  painting  at  Milan). 

From  this  point  Waterloo  St.  descends  to  the  Marsh  Bridge,  at  the  head 
of  Courtenay  Bay.  By  ascending  Cliff  St.  for  a  short  distance,  a  point 
may  be  reached  from  which  are  seen  the  Valley,  with  its  churches  and 
streets,  and  the  embowered  villas  on  Portland  Heights,  over  which  Reed's 
Castle  is  prominent. 

The  General  Public  Hospital  is  situated  on  a  bold  rocky  knoll  which 
overlooks  the  Marsh  Valley,  and  is  entered  from  Waterloo  St.  It  consists 
of  a  large  brick  building  with  one  wing,  and  accommodates  80  patients. 
The  structure  pertains  to  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1865  at  a  cost  of 
$64,000.  Directly  below  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  knoll  on  which  it  is 
built  is  the  broad  Marsh,  covered  with  houses,  and  extending  on  the  r. 
to  Courtenay  Bay.  The  geologists  entertain  a  plausible  theory  that  in 
remote  ages  the  St.  John  River  flowed  down  this  valley  from  the  Kenne- 
becasis  to  the  sea,  until  finally  the  present  channel  through  the  Narrows 
was  opened  by  some  convulsion  of  nature. 


f 


ST.  JOHN. 


lioute  1.       19 


1 


nds  at  -RcecTj 
whence  may 

sanctuary  of 
square  stone 
on  of  the  site 
'irch  (Presby. 
t  of  the  .lie- 
of  one  of  the 
and  British 
en  from  1\  to 
e  and  to  the 

)o  St.,  and  is 
'ble  and  sand- 
stone spire, 
hie  arches  of 
The  windows 
chancel  and 
is  placed  over 
!vrd,  Dominic, 
rancis,  John,  I 
g,  and  110  ft. 
5tone  building 
>f  the  Orphan 
;hedral  is  the 
>tice,  over  the 
!  bas-relief  of 
0. 

3,  at  the  head 
ance,  a  point 
churches  and 
vhich  Reed's 

knoll  which 
•  It  consists 
<  80  patients. 
►  at  a  cost  of 
n  which  it  Is 
ing  on  the  r. 
leory  that  in 
1  the  Kennc- 
the  Narrows 


That  subutb  which  is  known  as  the  Valley  lies  between  the  rocky  hills 
of  the  city  proper  and  the  line  of  the  Portland  Heights.  It  is  reached 
from  King  Square  by  Charlotte  and  Cobourg  Sts.,  and  contains  the  tracks 
and  station  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  most  prominent  object  in 
the  Valley  is  St.  Paul's  Church  (Episcopal),  a  graceful  wooden  edifice  with 
transepts,  a  clere-story,  and  a  tall  spire.  The  windows  are  of  stained  glass. 
The  brick  church  of  St.  Stephen  and  the  white  Zion  Church  (Reformed 
Episcoprl)  are  also  situated  in  the  Valley,  and  the  road  to  Lily  Lake  di- 
verges to  the  r.  from  the  latter.  Farther  to  the  E.,  on  the  City  Road,  is 
the^Skatiny  Rink,  a  round  wooden  building,  IGO  ft,  in  diameter,  covered 
with  a  domed  roof.  This  is  the  favorite  winter  resort  of  the  aristocracy 
of  St.  John,  and  strangers  can  gain  admission  only  by  introduction  from 
one  of  the  directors. 

The  site  of  St.  John  was  the  Menagwes  of  ancient  Micmac  tradition,  where  tho 
divine  Glooscap  once  had  his  lionie.  Hence,  during  Ins  absence,  his  attendants 
were  carried  away  b}-  a  powerful  evil  magician,  who  lied  with  them  to  Grand  Manan, 
Cape  Breton,  and  Newfoundland,  where  he  was  pursued  by  Glooscap,  who  rode 
much  of  the  way  on  the  backs  of  whales  which  he  called  in  from  the  deep  sea. 
Passing  through  Cape  Breton,  he  at  length  reached  the  dark  Newfoundland  shores, 
where  he  assumed  such  a  stature  that  the  clouds  rolled  about  his  head.  Tlie  evil- 
doing  wizard  was  soon  found  and  put  to  death  and  the  servants  of  Glooscap  were 
set  free. 

"he  site  of  St.  John  was  discovered  by  Champlain  and  De  Monts,  on  St.  John's 
Da    (June  24),  1604,  but  was  not  occupied  for  30  years  after. 

Clauds  de  la  Tour,  a  Huguenot  noble,  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  tho  French  adven- 
turers in  this  region,  and  received  a  grant  of  all  Acadia  from  Charles  I.  of  England. 
After  his  repulse  and  humiliation  (see  Route  25),  the  French  government  divided 
Acadia  into  three  provinces,  placing  there  as  governors,  M.  Denys,  Razilly,  and  tho 
young  and  chivalrous  Charles  de  St.  Estionnc,  Lord  of  La  Tour  (son  of  Claude). 
Denys  contented  himself  with  the  ocean-fishuries  from  Canso  and  Cape  Breton. 
Razilly  soon  died,  leaving  his  domain  to  his  kinsman  Charles  de  Menou,Sieurd'Aul- 
nay  Charnisay,  who  was  also  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu.  D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour 
began  to  quarrel  about  the  boundaries  of  their  jurisdictions,  and  the  former  em- 
ployed a  powerful  influence  at  the  Court  of  France  to  aid  his  cause.  Louis  XIII. 
finally  ordered  him  to  carry  La  Tour  to  France,  in  chains,  and  open  war  ensued 
between  these  patrician  adventurers.  La  Tour  had  erected  a  fort  at  St.  John  ia 
1(334,  whence  he  carried  on  a  lucrative  fur-trade  with  the  Indians.  In  1643  this 
stronghold  was  attacked  by  D'Aulnay  with  six  vessels,  but  La  Tour  escaped  on  tho 
ship  CUment,  leaving  his  garrison  to  hold  the  works.  He  entered  Boston  Harbor 
with  140  Huguenots  of  La  Rochelle,  and  sought  aid  from  Mas.sachusctts  agiinst  the 
Catholic  forces  which  were  besieging  him.  The  austere  Puritans  refbrred  to  the 
Bible  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  precedent  for  such  action,  but  found  no  certain 
response  from  that  oracle.  "On  the  one  hand,  it  was  said  that  the  speech  of  the 
Prophet  to  Jehoshaphat,  in  2d  Chronicles  xix.  2,  and  the  portion  of  Solomon's 
Proverbs  contained  iu  chap,  xxvi,  17th  verse,  not  only  discharged  them  from  any 
obligation,  but  actually  forbade  them  to  assist  La  Tour;  while,  on  tho  other  hand, 
it  was  agreed  that  it  was  as  lawful  for  them  to  give  him  succor  as  it  was  for  Joshua 
to  aid  the  Gibeonites  against  the  rest  of  the  Canaanites,  or  for  Jehoshaphat  to  aid 
Jehoram  against  Moab,  in  which  expedition  Elishawas  present,  and  did  not  reprove 
the  King  of  Judah."  But  when  they  had  ajjsured  themselves  that  it  would  bo 
allowable  fi»r  them  to  aid  the  distressed  nobleman,  they  sent  such  a  fleet  that  D'Aul- 
nay's  forees  were  quickly  scattered,  and  th(J  siege  was  raised.  Two  years  later, 
while  La  Tour  was  absent,  D'Aulnay  again  attacked  tho  fort,  but  was  handsomely 
repulsed  (with  a  loss  of  33  men)  by  the  little  garrison,  headed  by  Madame  La  Tour. 
Some  months  later  he  returned,  and  opened  a  regular  siege  on  the  landward  f^ide 
(the  fort  was  in  Carleton,  near  Navy  Island).  After  three  days  of  fighting  a  treach- 
erous Swiss  sentry  admitted  the  enemy  into  tVe  works  ;  and  even  then  Madame  L^i 
Tour  led  her  troops  so  gallantly  that  the  victor  gave  her  her  own  terms.    These 


20      Jioute  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


fii 


I 


11 

■  ]4 1 


terms,  however,  were  Phamefully  violated,  and  the  garrison  was  maflsacred  before 
her  face.  Three  weeks  afterward,  she  died  of  a  broken  heart.  I^a  "'our  came  back 
to  St.  John  Home  years  later,  and  found  that  D'Aulnay  was  dead,  whereupon  he 
effectually  recaptured  his  oM  domain  by  marrying  the  widow  of  the  conqueror 
(1653).  D'Aulnay  died  in  1650,  having  spent  800,000  livrcs  in  Acadia,  and  built  5 
fortresses,  2  Kenunaries,  and  several  churches.  He  had  several  eons,  all  of  whom 
entered  the  French  army,  and  were  slain  in  the  service. 

In  1690  a  sharp  engagement  took  place  in  St.  John  harbor,  between  the  French 
frigate  Union  and  two  Knglish  vessels.  The  former  had  entered  the  harbor  bearing 
the  Chevalier  de  Villebon,  and  was  taken  at  a  disadvantage.  After  a  severe  cannon- 
ade, the  Union  hauled  down  her  colors.  Villebon  soon  descended  the  river  with 
a  party  of  Indians  and  attacked  the  ships,  but  without  success.  In  1696,  while  the 
Chevalier  dc  Villebon  governed  Acadia  from  the  upper  St.  John  and  hurled  de- 
structive Indian  bands  upon  New  England,  Massachusetts  sent  three  men-of-war  to 
blockade  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  cut  otf  his  supplies.  They  were  soon  attacked 
by  D'Iberville's  French  frigates,  and  made  a  desperate  resistance.  But  the  New- 
port, 24,  was  unable  to  withstand  the  heavy  fire  of  the  Profond,  and  soon  lay  dig- 
masted  and  helpless.  After  her  surrender  the  other  American  vessels  escaped 
under  cover  of  a  thick  fog.  A  new  fleet  from  Boston  soon  afterwards  overhauled 
the  French  frigates,  cruising  between  Mount  Desert  and  St.  John,  and  captured 
the  Profane/,  with  M.  de  Villebon,  the  Governor  of  Acadia,  on  board.  In  1701  the 
fort  of  St.  John  was  dismantled  by  Brouilian  :  but  in  1708  it  was  rebuilt,  and  hud 
4  bastions  and  24  pieces  of  artillery. 

In  July,  1749,  II.  B.  M.  sloop-of-war  Albany  entered  the  harbor  and  drove  away 
the  French  troops,  lowering  also  the  standard  of  France  The  frigates  Hound  and 
York  had  a  skirmish  with  the  French  here  in  1750,  and  were  ordered  out  of  the 
port  by  Boishcbert,  the  commandant  of  the  fort.  In  1755,  four  British  war-vessels 
entered  the  harbor,  and  the  French  garrison  demolished  the  fort,  blew  up  the  mag- 
azine, and  retreated  into  the  country.  In  1758  Fort  La  Tour  was  still  garrisoned 
by  French  soldiers,  but,  after  a  sliort  siege  by  an  Anglo-American  force,  the  post 
was  surrendered  at  discretion.  Two  years  later,  the  place  was  visited  by  James 
Simonds,  an  adventurous  New-Englander,  who  wa«,  however,  soon  driven  away  by 
the  Indians,  "  Catholics  and  allies  of  France.''  In  1764  he  returned  with  a  party 
of  Massachusetts  fishermen,  and  settled  on  the  present  site  of  the  city,  erecting  de- 
fensive works  on  Portland  Heights,  under  the  name  of  Fort  Howe.  In  1775  a  naval 
expedition  of  Americans  from  Machias  entered  the  harbor  and  destroyed  the  old 
French  fortifications  (then  called  Fort  Frederick),  completing  their  work  by  plun- 
dering and  bombarding  the  village.  May  18, 1783,  a  British  fleet  arrived  in  the 
port  bringing  5,000  of  the  self-styled  "United  Empire  Loyalists,"  Americans  who 
were  loyal  to  King  George  and  could  not  or  would  not  remain  in  the  new  Republic 
of  the  United  States.  From  this  day  may  be  dated  the  growth  of  the  city  of  St. 
John. 

New  Brunswick  was  set  off  from  Nova  Scotia  as  a  separate  Province  the  next 
year,  and  in  1786  its  first  Legislative  Assembly  was  convened  here.  In  1787 
Trinity  Church  was  founded ;  in  1788  harbor-lights  were  established  on  Partridge 
Island,  and  in  1799  the  Royal  Gazette  was  started.  In  1837  one  third  of  the  com- 
mercial portion  of  the  city  was  burned,  involving  a  loss  of  £250,000.  During  the 
boundary  dispute  with  the  State  of  Maine  (1839-42)  the  citizens  were  all  enrolled 
and  drilled  in  military  exercises,  in  preparation  for  a  war  on  the  borders.  Largo 
fortunes  were  made  by  the  merchants  during  the  Crimean  war,  when  the  British 
timber-market,  which  had  depended  largely  on  the  Baltic  ports  for  its  supply,  was 
by  their  closing  forced  to  draw  heavily  on  the  American  Provinces.  The  last  his- 
toric event  at  St.  John  was  its  occupation,  in  the  winter  of  1861,  by  several  of  the 
choicest  regiments  of  the  British  army,  among  which  were  the  Grenadier  Guards, 
the  Scotch  Fusiliers,  and  other  elite  corps.  After  the  peaceful  solution  of  the  Trent 
aflair  this  formidable  garrison  was  removed,  and  the  city  has  since  been  left  to 
prosper  in  the  arts  of  peace  and  industry. 

"  Here  is  picturesque  St.  John,  with  its  couple  of  centuries  of  history  and  tradi- 
tion, its  comm  ces,  its  enterprise  felt  all  along  the  coast  and  through  the  settle- 
ments of  the  ritory  to  the  northeast,  with  its  no  doubt  charming  society  and 
solid  English  c.  ure ;  and  the  summer  tourist,  in  an  idle  mood  regarding  it  for 
a  day,  says  it  ii>  aaught."    (War>'£R's  Baddeck.) 


ST.  JOHN. 


Jioute  1.      21 


ssacred  before 
our  came  back 
whereupon  he 
the  conqueror 
ia,  and  built  5 
,  all  of  whom 

•n  the  French 
larbor  bearing 
severe  cannon- 
the  river  with 
696.  while  the 
nd  hurled  de- 
men-of-war  to 
soon  attacked 
But  the  Neiv- 
I  soon  lay  dis- 
essels  escaped 
•ds  overhauled 
and  captured 
,  In  1701  the 
built,  and  hud 


id  drove  away 
es  Hound  and 
red  out  of  the 
ish  war-vessels 
w  up  the  inag- 
till  garrisoned 
force,  the  post 
ited  by  James 
I  riven  away  by 
i  with  a  party 
:y ,  erecting  de- 
[n  1776  a  naval 
troyed  the  old 
work  by  plun- 
arrived  in  the 
Americans  who 
i  new  Republic 
the  city  of  St. 

rince  the  next 
lere.  In  1787 
1  on  Partridge 
rd  of  the  com- 
).  During  the 
re  all  enrolled 
orders.  Large 
en  the  British 
ts  supply,  was 
The  last  his- 
several  of  the 
nadier  Guards, 
n  of  the  Trent 
:e  been  left  to 

tory  and  tradi- 
tgh  the  settle- 
ig  society  and 
igarding  it  for 


St.  John. 

"To  the  winds  give  our  banner! 

Bear  homeward  again !" 
Cried  the  Lord  of  Acadia, 

Cried  Charles  of  lOsticiine  ; 
Fiom  the  i)row  of  his  shallop 

lie  pazcil,  us  the  sun, 
Froir.  its  bed  in  the  ocean. 

Streamed  up  tl»e  St.  John. 

O'er  the  blue  western  waters 

That  sliallop  had  passed, 
Where  the  mists  of  Venobscot 

Clung  damp  on  her  mast. 
St.  Savior  had  looked 

Ou  the  licrctic  sail, 
As  the  fongs  of  the  Huguenot 

ilose  on  the  gale. 

The  pale,  ghostly  fathers 

Uemembered  her  well. 
And  had  cursed  her  while  passmg. 

With  taper  and  bell, 
But  the  men  of  Monhegan, 

Of  Papists  abhorred. 
Had  welcomed  and  feasted 

The  heretic  Lord. 

They  had  loaded  his  shallop 

With  dun-flsh  and  ball. 
With  stores  for  his  lurder, 

And  steel  for  his  wall. 
Pemcquid,  from  her  bastions 

And  turrets  of  stone. 
Had  welcomed  liis  coming 

With  banner  and  gun. 

And  the  prayers  of  the  elders 

Had  followed  his  way, 
As  homeward  he  glided 

Down  Pentecost  Bay. 
O,  well  sped  La  Tour  I 

For,  in  peril  and  pain, 
His  lady  kept  watch 

For  his  coming  again. 

O'er  the  Isle  of  the  Pheasant 

The  morning  sun  shone. 
On  the  plane-trees  wliicli  shaded 

The  shores  of  St.  John. 
"  Now  why  from  yon  battlements 

Speaks  not  my  love? 
Why  waves  there  no  banner 

My  fortress  above?" 

Dark  and  wild,  from  his  deck 

St.  Estienne  gazed  about, 
On  fire-wasted  dwellings, 

And  silent  redoubt ; 
From  the  low  shattered  walls 

Which  the  flame  had  o'errun, 
There  floated  no  banner. 

There  thundered  no  gun. 

But  beneath  the  low  arch 

Of  its  doorway  there  stood 
A  pale  priest  of  Rome, 

In  his  cloak  and  his  hood. 
With  the  bound  of  a  lion 

La  Tour  sprang  to  land. 
On  the  throat  of  the  Papist 

lie  fastened  his  hand. 

"  Speak,  son  of  the  Woman 

Of  scarlet  and  sinl 
What  wolf  has  been  prowling 

My  castle  within  ?" 
Froni  the  grasp  of  the  soldier 

The  Jesuit  broke, 
Half  in  scorn,  half  in  sorrow. 

He  smiled  us  he  spoke : 


1647. 

"  No  wolf.  Lord  of  Kstlenne, 

Has  ravaged  thy  hall. 
But  thy  red-handed  rival. 

With  fire,  steel,  and  balll 
On  an  errand  of  mercy 

I  hitherward  came, 
Willie  the  wuila  of  thy  castle 

Yet  spouted  with  flame. 

"  Pentogoet's  dark  vessels 

Were  moored  in  the  bay. 
Grim  sea-lions,  roaring 

Aloud  for  their  prey  i " 
"But  what  of  my  lady?" 

Cried  Charles  of  Estienne. 
"On  the  shot-crumbled  turret 

Thy  lady  was  seen : 

"Half  veiled  in  the  smoke-cloud, 

Her  hand  grasped  thy  pennon. 
While  her  dark  tresses  swayed 

In  the  hot  breath  of  cannon  t 
But  woe  to  the  heretic, 

Evermore  woe  I 
When  the  son  of  the  church 

And  the  cross  is  his  foe  I 

"In  the  track  of  the  shell, 

In  the  path  of  the  ball, 
Pentagoct  swept  over 

The  breach  of  the  wall! 
Steel  to  steel,  gun  to  gun. 

One  moment,  —  and  then 
Alone  stood  the  victor. 

Alone  with  his  men! 

"  Of  its  sturdy  defenders. 

Thy  lady  alone 
Saw  the  cross-blazoned  banner 

Float  over  St.  John." 
"  Let  the  dastard  look  to  it  I " 

Cried  flery  Estienne, 
"Were  D'Aulnay  King  Louis, 

I  'd  free  her  again  1 " 

"  Alas  for  thy  lady  I 

No  service  from  thee 
Is  needed  by  her 

Whom  the  Lord  hath  set  free : 
Nine  days,  in  stem  silence. 

Her  thraldom  she  bore, 
.   But  the  tenth  morning  came. 

And  Death  opened  her  door  ! " 

As  if  suddenly  smitten. 

La  Tour  staggered  back  ; 
His  hand  grasped  his  sword-hilt, 

His  forenead  grew  black. 
He  sprang  on  the  deck 

Of  his  shallop  again. 
"  We  cruise  now  for  vengeance  I 

Give  way  I "  cried  Estienne. 

"  Massachusetts  shall  hear 

Of  tne  Huguenots  wrong. 
And  from  island  and  crcekside 

Her  fishers  shall  throng ! 
Fentagoet  shall  rue 

What  his  Papists  have  done, 
When  his  palisades  echo 

The  Puritan's  gun ! " 

O,  the  loveliest  of  heovens 

Hung  tenderly  oer  him. 
There  were  waves  in  the  sunshine. 

And  preen  isles  before  him  : 
But  a  phle  hand  was  beckoning 

The  Huguenot  on  : 
And  in  blackness  and  ashes 

Behind  was  .''t.  John  ! 

JoUN  G.  WUITTIER. 


_ 


22      Route  2.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


i 

■X 

1 


( 


2.   The  Environs  of  St  John. 

*  Lily  Lake  is  about  1  M.  from  Kinp  Square,  and  is  reached  by  cross- 
ing the  Valley  and  Ascending  Portland  Heights.  The  road  which  turns  to 
the  r.  from  the  white  (Zion)  church  conducts  past  several  villas  and  rursil 
estates.  From  its  end  a  broad  path  diverges  to  the  r.,  leading  in  a  few 
miinites  to  the  lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  surrounded  by  high  rocky 
banks.  The  environs  are  thickly  studded  with  clumps  of  arbor-vitrc  and 
evergreens,  among  which  run  devious  rambles  and  pathways.  No  houses 
or  other  signs  of  civilization  are  seen  on  the  shores,  and  the  citizens  wish 
to  preserve  this  district  in  its  primitive  beauty  by  converting  it  into  a  pub- 
lic park.  The  water  is  of  rare  purity,  and  was  used  for  several  years  to 
supply  the  city,  being  pumped  up  by  expensive  machinery.  This  is  a 
ilvvorite  place  for  skating  early  in  the  season,  and  at  that  time  presents  a 
scene  of  great  activity  and  interest.  A  pleasant  pathway  leads  on  one 
side  to  the  Lily  Lake  Falls,  which  are  attractive  in  time  of  high  water. 

The  Marsh  Boad  is  the  favorite  drive  for  the  citizens  of  St.  John,  and 
presents  a  busy  scene  on  pleasant  Sundays  and  during  the  season  of  sleigli- 
ing.  It  is  broad,  firm,  and  level,  and  follows  the  (supposed)  ancient  bed 
of  the  St.  John  River.  At  1^  M.  from  the  city  the  Rural  Cemetery  is 
reached  (only  lot-owners  are  admitted  on  Sunda}-).  This  is  a  pleasant 
ground  occupying  about  12  acres  along  a  cluster  of  high,  rocky  knolls, 
and  its  roads  curve  gi*acefully  through  an  almost  unbroken  forest  of  old 
(but  small)  evergreen  trees.  The  chief  point  of  interest  is  along  Ocean 
Avenue,  where  beneath  uniform  monuments  are  buried  a  large  number 
of  sailors.  1^  M.  beyond  the  Cemetery  the  Marsh  Road  passes  the  Throe- 
Mile  House  and  Moosepath  Park,  a  half-mile  course  which  is  much  u?cd 
for  horse-racing,  especially  during  the  month  of  August.  3  -  4  M  farther 
on  (with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  anvays  near  at  hand)  the  road  reaches 
the  Torryhurn  House,  near  the  usual  course  for  boat-racing  on  the  broad 
Kennebecasis  Bay.  The  course  of  this  estuarj-  is  now  followed  for  2  M., 
with  the  high  cliff  called  the  Minister's  Face  on  the  farther  shore.  Pass- 
ing several  country-seats,  the  tourist  arrives  at  Bothesay,  prettily  situated 
on  the  Kennebecasis.  This  village  is  a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence 
for  families  from  the  city,  and  has  numerous  villas  and  picnic  grounds. 
The  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are  good.  Near  the  railway  station 
is  Rothesay  Hall,  a  summer  hotel,  accommodating  30-40  guests  ($8-10 
a  week).  There  are  pleasant  views  from  this  point,  including  the  broad 
and  lake-like  Kennebecasis  for  many  miles,  the  palisades  of  the  Minister's 
Face,  and  the  hamlet  of  Moss  Glen. 

Loch  Lomond  is  about  11  M.  N.  E.  of  St.  John,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  its  citizens.  Many  people  go  out  to  the  lake  on  Saturday  and  remain 
there  until  ^londay  morning.  The  road  crosses  the  Marsh  Bridge  and 
passes  near  the  Silver  Falls,  a  pretty  cascade  on  Little  River  (whence  the 


„^ 


THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.  JOHN.     lioute  2.      23 


fl  by  cross- 
ich  turns  to 
IS  and  rural 
ing  in  a  few 
high  rocky 
lor-vitaj  nnd    y 
No  houses 
tizens  wish 
into  a  pub- 
;riil  3'ears  to 
.    This  is  a 
c  presents  a 
eads  on  one 
h  water, 
t.  John,  and 
^onof  sleigii- 
ancient  bed 
Cemetery  is 

3  a  pleasant 
X'ky  knolls,     * 

forest  of  old 
ilong  Ocean 
irgc  number 
s  tlic  Throe- 
much  u?ed 

4  M  farther 
"oad  reaches 
n  the  broad 
ed  for  2  M., 
lore.  Pass- 
tily  situated 
er  residence 
lie  grounds,  i 
way  station 
!sts  ($8-10 

g  the  broad 
e  Minister's 

'•orite  resort 
md  remain 
Bridge  and 
whence  the     ' 


city  draws  its  water  supply).  There  are  two  small  liotcls  near  Loch 
I  omond,  of  which  Bunker's  is  at  l!ie  lower  end  and  Dalzell's  is  3-4  M.  be- 
yond, or  near  the  head  of  the  First  Lake.  These  waters  are  much  re- 
sorted to  by  trout-fishers,  and  the  white  trout  that  are  found  near  Dalzell's 
Lake  House  are  considered  a  delicacy.  Boats  and  tackle  are  furnished 
at  the  hotels;  and  there  is  good  shooting  in  the  vicinity.  The  shores  con- 
sist, for  the  most  part,  of  low  rolling  hills,  covered  with  forests.  The  First 
Lake  is  4  x  ^  M.  in  area,  and  is  connected  by  a  'short  stream  with  the 
Second  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M.  long,  and  very  narrow.  The  Third 
Lake  is  smaller  than  either  of  the  others. 

"  An  elevated  ridRe  of  hard-wood  land,  over  which  the  road  pauses  near  the  nar- 
rowest part,  afforded  me  from  its  summit  a  view  of  the  lower  lake,  which  would  not 
suffer  ill  comparison  with  many  either  of  our  EnRlish  or  our  Scottish  lakes.  Its 
Burfiue  was  calm  and  still ;  beyond  it  rose  a  wooded  ridgo  of  rounded  hills,  purpled 
by  the  broad-leaved  trees  whicii  covered  them,  and  terminated  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake  by  a  lofty,  so-called  Lion's  Back,  lower  considerably  than  Arthur's  Seat,  yet 
still  a  miniature  Ben  Lomond."  — Prof.  Johnston. 

Ben  Lomond,  Jones,  Taylor's,  and  other  so-called  lakes  (being  largo  forest-ponds) 
are  situated  in  this  neighborhood,  and  afford  better  fishing  facilities  than  the  much- 
visited  waters  of  Loch  Lomond.  Both  white  and  speckled  trout  an?  caught  in  great 
numbers  from  rafts  or  floats  on  these  ponds ;  and  Bunker's  or  Dalzell's  affords  a 
favorable  headquarters  for  the  sportsman,  where  also  more  particular  information 
may  be  obtained. 

The  Penitentiary  is  a  granite  building  120  ft.  long,  situated  in  an  in- 
walled  tmct  of  18  acres,  on  the  farther  side  of  Courtenay  Bay.  The  Poor 
Home  is  a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  same  neighborhood.  The  road 
that  passes  these  institutions  is  prolonged  as  far  as  Mispeck,  traversing  a 
diversified  country,  and  at  times  aflbrding  pretty  views  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.    Mispeck  is  a  small  marine  hamlet,  10  M.  from  St.  John. 

4  M.  N.  of  the  city  is  the  estate  of  the  Highland  Park  Company,  an  asso- 
ciation of  citizens  who  have  united  for  the  purpose  of  securing  rural  homes 
in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  region.  There  are  three  lakes  on  the  tract 
(which  includes  500  acres),  the  chief  of  which  is  Howe's  Lake,  a  small  but 
pretty  forest-pond. 

The  *  SuspensioxL  Bridge  is  about  1^  M.  from  King  Square,  and  most 
of  the  distance  may  be  traversed  by  horse-cars,  passing  through  the  town 
of  Portland  and  under  Fort  Howe  Hill  (whence  a  good  view  of  the  city  is 
afforded).  The  bridge  crosses  the  rocky  gorge  into  which  the  wide  waters 
of  the  St.  John  River  are  compressed,  at  a  height  of  nearly  100  ft.  above 
low  water.  The  rush  of  the  upward  tide,  and  the  falls  which  become 
visible  at  low  tide,  fill  the  stream  with  seething  eddies  and  Avhirls  and 
render  navigation  impossible.  At  a  certain  stage  of  the  flood-tide,  and  for 
a  few  minutes  only,  this  gorge  may  be  passed  by  vessels  and  rafts. 

The  St.  John  River  is  over  450  M.  long,  and,  with  its  many  tributaries,  drains  a 
vast  extent  of  country.  Yet,  at  this  point,  where  its  waters  are  emptied  into  the 
harbor,  the  outlet  of  the  river  is  narrowed  to  a  channel  which  is  in  places  but  450 
ft.  wide,  with  cliffs  of  limestone  100  ft.  high  hemming  it  in  on  either  side.  The  stream 
rushes  through  this  narrow  pass  with  great  impetuosity,  and  its  course  is  further 
disturbed  by  several  rocky  islets.    The  tides  in  the  harbor  rise  to  a  height  of  ^  -26 


m 


24      Rmte  I.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


% 


It 


ft. ,  and  rush  up  the  river  with  such  force  as  to  overflow  the  falls  and  produce  IptcI 
water  at  Hood-tide.  The  bridge  was  built  in  18o2  by  an  American  engineer,  and  cost 
8  8(»,0(X).  It  is  640  ft.  lonR  and  contains  570  M.  of  wire,  Hupported  on  4  slender  but 
solid  towers.    One-horse  carriages  pay  13c.  toll ;  2-hor8c  carriages,  20c. 

Over  the  head  of  the  bridge,  on  the  Cnrleton  shore,  is  the  Pronncinl 
Lunatic  Asylum,  an  extensive  briclc  building  with  long  wings,  situated  in 
pleasant  grounds.  Its  elevated  situation  renders  it  a  prominent  object  in 
approaching  the  city  from  almost  any  direction.  The  building  was  erected 
in  1848,  and  accommodates  200  patients.  From  this  vicinity,  or  from  the 
bridge,  are  seen  the  busy  manufacturing  villages  about  Indiantown  and 
Point  Pleasant,  most  of  which  are  engaged  in  the  lumber  business. 

On  the  summit  of  the  highest  hill  in  Carleton  is  a  venerable  and  pic- 
turesque stone  tower,  which  gives  an  antique  and  feudal  air  to  *ie  land- 
scape. It  is  known  as  the  Martello  Tower,  and  was  built  f  'arbor- 
defence  at  the  time  when  this  peculiar  kind  of  fortification  >  ..ivorcd 
by  the  British  War  Office.  Many  of  these  works  may  be  seen  along  the 
shores  of  the  British  Isles,  but  they  are  now  used  (if  used  at  all)  only  as 
coast-guard  stations.  The  tower  in  Carleton  is  under  the  charge  of  a  sub- 
officer,  and  near  by  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  hill-battery,  with  a  few  old 
guns  still  in  position.  The  *view  from  this  point  is  broad  and  beautiful, 
including  St.  John,  with  the  Victoria  Hotel  and  the  Cathedral  most  prom- 
inent, Portland  and  the  Fort  Howe  Hill,  the  wharves  of  Carleton  and  its 
pretty  churches,  the  harbor  and  shipping,  the  broad  Bay  of  Fundy,  ex- 
tending to  the  horizon,  and  in  the  S.  the  blue  shores  of  Nova  Scotia  (the 
North  Mt.),  with  the  deep  gap  at  the  entrance  to  the  Annapolis  Basin, 
called  the  Digby  Gut. 

The  streets  of  Carleton  are  as  yet  in  a  transition  state,  and  do  not  invite 
a  long  sojourn.  On  the  hill  near  the  Martello  Tower  is  the  tall  and  grace- 
ful Church  of  the  Assumption,  with  pleasant  grounds,  in  which  is  the 
fine  building  of  the  presbytery.  Below  this  point  is  the  Convent  of  St. 
Vincent,  S.  of  which  is  seen  the  spire  of  St.  Jude's  Episcopal  Church. 

The  Fern  Ledges  are  about  1  M.  from  Carleton,  on  the  shore,  and  are  much 
visited  by  geologists.  They  consist  of  an  erratic  fragment  of  tlie  Old  Red  Sandstone 
epoch,  and  are  covered  with  sea-weed  and  limpets.  On  clearing  away  the  weeds  and 
breaking  the  rock,  the  most  beautiful  impressions  of  ferns  and  other  cr^'ptogamous 
plants  are  found. 

The  Mahogany  i  Road  affords  a  fine  drive  along  the  Bay  shore,  with  a 
sticcession  of  broad  marine  views.  It  is  gained  by  crossing  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  and  passing  the  Insane  Asjdum.  About  4  M.  from  the  city  is 
the  Four-Mile  House,  a  favorite  objective  point  for  drives.  The  road  is 
often  followed  as  far  as  Spruce  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water  5  M.  long,  and 
situated  about  7  M.  from  St.  John.  Perch  are  found  here  in  great  num- 
bers, but  the  facilities  for  fishing  are  not  good.  The  water  supply  of  the 
suburb  of  Carleton  is  drawn  from  this  lake. 

I  Mahogany,  a  popular  adaptation  of  the  Indian  word  Jtlanatvagonish,  applied  to  the 
neighboring  bay. 


m 


CAMPOBELLO. 


EoiUe  3.      25 


)rotluce  IpTel 
t-er,  una  co^t 
slender  but 

Pronncinl 
situated  in 
t  object  in 
k'as  erected 
)r  from  the 
iitown  and 

CSS. 

0  and  pic- 
^0  ]and- 

'arbor- 
^avorcd 

1  along  tlie 
11)  only  as 
e  of  a  sub- 
1  a  few  old 

beautiful, 
aost  prom- 
on  and  its 
P'undy,  ex- 
scotla  (tijo 
olis  Basin, 

>  not  invite 
and  grace- 
ch  is  tlio 
ent  of  St. 
lurch. 

I  are  much 
1  Sandstone 
s  weeds  and 
'ptogamou8 

re,  with  a 
e  Suspen- 
the  city  is 
le  road  is 
long,  and 
•eat  num- 
3ly  of  the 


lied  to  the 


3.  St  John  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen.— Faasamaquoddy 

Bay. 

The  rommodious  vcshcIb  of  the  International  Stcnnwhip  Com|tany  IcflTothc  Reed's 
Point  Wharf,  at  St.  John,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  8  a.  m.,  and 
reach  Jiwtport  (00  M.  distant)  a  little  after  noon.  A  connection  U  made  there  with 
the  light  steamboat  Velle  Brown,  wlilch  ascends  Passomaquoddy  Bay  and  the  ^i. 
Croix  River  to  8t.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen. 

Travellers  who  wish  to  gain  a  thorougli  idea  of  the  quaintly  picturesque  scenery 
of  Passamaquoddy  Bay  would  do  well  to  go  to  St.  .Stephen  by  Route  3  and  return 
to  St.  John  by  Route  5,  or  vice  virsa.  Except  during  very  stormy  weather  the 
waters  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay  are  quiet  and  without  much  swell. 

After  leaving  St.  John,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
and  soon  passes  Split  Rock,  and  stretches  :  ross  to  Point  Lepreau.  Tlio 
peculiarities  of  the  coast,  which  is  always  visible  (in  clear  weather)  on  tho 
N.,  are  spoken  of  in  Route  5,  and  are  thus  epitomized  by  Mr.  Warner  : 
"  A  pretty  bay  now  and  then,  a  rocky  cove  with  scant  foliage,  a  light- 
house, a  rude  cabin,  a  level  land,  monotonous  and  without  noble  forests, — 
this  Avas  New  Brunswick  as  we  coasted  along  it  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances." 

After  passing  the  Iron-bound  islets  called  the  Wolves  (where  tho  New 
England  was  wrecked  in  1872),  the  steamer  runs  in  towards  the  West 
Isles,  whose  knob-like  hills  rise  boldly  from  the  blue  waters.  Sometimes 
she  meets,  in  these  outer  passages,  great  fleets  of  fishing-boats,  either 
drifting  over  schools  of  fish,  or,  with  their  white  and  red  sails  stretched, 
pursuing  their  prey.  If  such  a  meeting  occurs  during  one  of  the  heavy 
fogs  which  so  often  visit  this  coast,  a  wonderfully  weird  cflcct  is  caused 
by  the  sudden  emergence  and  disappearance  of  the  boats  in  the  dense 
white  clouds. 

Soon  after  passing  the  White  Horse  islet,  the  steamer  enters  the  Eastern 
Passage,  and  runs  to  the  S.  W.  into  Friar's  Road.  On  the  r.  is  Deer 
Isle,  a  rugged  island,  7  M.  long  by  3  M.  wide,  with  a  poor  soil  and  no 
good  harbors.  There  are  about  1,000  inhabitants  on  this  island,  and  it  is 
surrounded  by  an  archipelago  of  isolated  rocky  peaks.  The  shores  attain 
an  elevation  of  300  ft.,  and  from  some  of  the  higher  hills  are  gained  beau- 
tiful panoramic  views  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  on  one  side,  and  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  on  the  other. 

Campobello  Island  lies  on  the  left  side  of  the  course,  with  bold  and 
rocky  shores.  It  is  8  M.  long  by  3  M.  wide,  and  contains  numerous 
profitable  farms.  On  its  N.  point  is  a  lighthouse,  below  which  is  the 
entrance  to  the  fine  harbor  of  Welchpool,  where  there  is  a  pretty  marine 
village.  Wilson's  Beach  is  a  populous  fishing-settlement  on  the  S.  shore; 
and  the  island  contains  over  1,000  inhabitants.  The  surrounding  waters 
are  rich  in  fisheries,  especially  of  herring  and  haddock,  which  are  fol- 
lowed by  the  island  flotillas ;  and  tho  hills  are  said  to  yield  copper,  lead, 
and  plaster.  The  proximity  of  the  lower  shores  to  the  American  towns 
2 


20      Houte  3. 


EASXrOET. 


r 


lili 


;i 


of  Lubec  atd  Eastport  affords  favorable  opportunities  for  smuggling, 
which  was  formerly  practised  to  a  considerable  extent.  The  island  is 
frequently  visited  by  summer  tourists,  on  account  of  the  fine  marine 
scenery  on  its  ocean  front  and  for  the  sport  afforded  by  the  deep-sea 
fishing.  Some  years  ago  there  was  much  talk  of  erecting  a  first-class 
hotel  on  the  east  shore,  but  the  project  now  lies  in  abeyance.  The  view 
from  the  abrupt  heights  of  Brucker's  Hill  embraces  a  wide  expanse  of 
blue  waters,  studded  with  an  archipelago  of  islets.  •  On  the  W.  shore  is 
the  singular  group  of  rocks  known  as  the  Friar's  Face,  which  has  been 
a  favorite  target  for  marine  artillery. 

The  earliest  settlement  on  the  Bay  was  established  about  1770,  by  the  Campo- 
bello  Company,  and  was  located  at  Ilarhor  dc  Lute,  on  Canipobullo  Island.  It  wag 
named  Warrington,  but  the  Welchpool  settlement  has  long  since  surpassed  it.  The 
island  was  for  some  time  the  property  of  Capt.  Owen,  of  the  Royal  Navy,  to  whom 
the  residents  paid  ttuaiits'  dues.  At  certiun  stages  of  the  tide,  Eastport  can  only 
be  approached  by  passing  around  Campobello,  concerning  which  Mr.  Warner  in- 
dulges in  the  following  pleasantry :  "  The  possest?ion  by  the  British  of  the  isbnd  of 
Campolbello  is  an  insufferable  menace  and  impertinence.  I  write  with  a  full  knowl- 
edge of  what  war  is.  We  ought  to  instantly  dislodge  the  British  from  Campobello. 
It  entirely  shuts  up  and  commands  our  harbor,  —  one  of  our  chief  ri^fitern  har- 
bors and  war  stations,  where  we  keep  a  flag  and  cannon  and  some  soldiers,  and 
where  the  customs  officers  look  out  for  smuggling.  There  is  no  way  to  get  into  our 
own  harbor,  except  in  favorable  circumstances  of  the  tide,  without  begging  tlw 
courtesy  of  a  passage  through  British  waters.  Why  is  England  permitted  to  stretch 
along  down  our  coast  in  this  straggling  and  inquisitive  manner  ?  She  might  almost 
as  well  own  Long  Island.  It  was  impossible  to  prevent  our  cheeks  mantling  with 
shanic  as  we  thought  of  this,  and  saw  ourselves,  free  American  citizens,  landlocked 
by  alien  soil  in  our  own  harbor.  We  ought  to  have  war,  if  war  is  necessary  to  pos- 
sess Campobello  and  Deer  Islands,  or  else  we  ought  to  give  the  British  Eastport.  I 
am  not  sure  but  the  latter  would  be  the  better  course." 

Eastport  {*Passamaquoddy  House,  $2.50  a  day;  TnttWs  Hotel,  $2)  is 
an  American  border-town,  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  and  has  3,738  inhabi- 
tants and  8  churches.  It  is  built  on  the  slope  '^f  a  hill  at  the  E.  end  of 
Moose  Island,  in  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  is  engaged  in  the  fisheries  and 
the  coasting-trade.  Over  the  village  are  the  ramparts  of  Fort  Sullivan, 
a  garrisoned  post  of  the  United  States,  commanding  the  harbor  with  its 
artillery.  Eastport  is  much  visited  in  summ-r  ibr  the  sake  of  the  salt- 
water fishing  and  the  unique  marine  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  sev- 
eral reputable  boarding-houses.  It  is  connected  with  the  mainL-nd  by  a 
bridge,  over  which  lies  the  road  to  the  Indian  village.  Eastport  is  tlio 
most  convenient  point  from  which  to  reach  Campobello,  Grand  Iilanan 
(see  Route  4),  and  the  adjacent  i.'^lands.  A  steam-ferry  runs  hence  in  3  M. 
to  Lubec  {Lubec  House,  Cobscook  Hotel),  a  picturesque  marine  village  to- 
wards Quoddy  Head,  with  advantages  for  sumnier  resident.''.  This  pleasant 
little  place  is  decaying  slowly,  having  lost  over  400  inhabitants  between 
1860  and  1870.  The  present  population  is  a  little  over  2,000.  Lubec  is 
1  M.  farther  E.  than  Eastport,  and  is  therefore  the  easternmost  town  of 
the  United  States.  The  purple  cliffs  of  Grand  Manan  are  seen  from 
Quoddy  Head. 


ib^: 


EASTPORT. 


Routes.       27 


smuggling;, 
e  island  is 
ine  marine 
le  deep-sea 
I  first-class 
The  view 
expanse  of 
W.  shore  is 
1  has  been 


the  Campo- 

and.    It  wag 

-sscd  it.    The 

ivy,  to  whom 

port  can  onlj 

.  Warner  in- 

the  island  of 

a  full  knowl- 

Campobello. 

Tifitern  har- 

soldiers,  and 

)  get  into  our 

begging  tlm 

ted  to  stretch 

might  aluio8t 

nantling  with 

IS,  landlocked 

!ssary  to  pes- 

Eastport.    I 


Totel,  $  2)  is 
,738  inhabi- 
3  E.  end  of 
sheries  and 
;  Sullivan, 
'or  with  its 
of  the  salt- 
id  has  scv- 
nLnd  by  a 
port  is  tho 
and  ]Manan 
3nce  in  3  M. 

village  to- 
ns pleasant 
ts  between 
Lubec  is 
st  town  of 

seen  from 


In  1684  the  Passamaquoddy  islands  were  granted  by  the  King  of  France  to  Jeaa 
SarrQau  dc  St.  Aubin.  In  the  summer  of  1704  the  few  French  settlers  about  Passa- 
maquoddy Bay  were  plundered  by  an  expedition  under  Col.  Church,  consisting  of 
600  Massachusetts  soldiers,  escorted  by  the  men-of-war  Jersey,  48,  and  Gosport,  32. 
They  ascended  the  St.  Croix  as  far  as  the  bead  of  navigation,  then  returned  and 
crossed  the  bay  to  ravage  the  Minas  settlements.  Tliey  visited  Moose  Island  and 
tlio  adjacent  main,  and  carried  off  all  the  settlers  as  prisoners.  Eighteen  years  later 
a  Boston  ship  was  captured  by  the  Indians  among  these  islands,  but  was  retaken  by 
its  crew  when  a  fair  wind  arose.  In  1744  Massachusetts  declared  war  against  the 
Indians  on  this  bay  and  on  the  St.  John  Uiver ;  and  in  1760  the  tribes  sued  for 
peace,  sending  hostages  to  Boston.  In  1734  Gov.  Belcher  (of  Mass.)  visited  tho 
biiy,  and  in  1750  and  1762  its  shores  and  islands  were  regularly  surveyed. 

During  the  War  of  the  Revolution  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians  were  loyal  to 
the  United  States,  and  declined  all  offers  from  the  British  agents.  The  boundary 
question  began  to  assume  great  importance  after  the  close  of  the  war.  The  treaty 
stipulated  that  the  St.  Croix  iliver  should  form  the  frontier ;  but  Massachusetts, 
supported  by  the  Indians,  claimed  that  the  Magaguadavic  was  the  true  St.  Croix ; 
while  Great  Britain  asserted  and  proved  that  the  outlet  of  the  Scboodic  Lakes  was 
tlie  veritable  river.  The  Islands  were  surrendered  to  Britain ;  but  Moose,  Dudley, 
and  Frederick  Islands  were  restored  to  the  United  States  in  1818. 

Eastport  was  founded  about  1784,  by  fishermen  from  the  coast  of  Essex  Coanty, 
Mass.,  who  settled  here  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  catching  and  curing  fish.  In 
1808  the  walls  of  Fort  Sullivan  were  raised,  and  a  detachment  of  troops  was  8ta« 
tioued  there.  In  1813  the  valuable  British  vessel,  the  Etiza  Ann,  was  captured  by 
tlie  privateer  Timothy  Pickering  and  sent  into  Eastport.  She  was  followed  by 
II.  M.  S.  Martin,  whosy  commander  demanded  her  surrender,  on  pain  of  destroying 
the  town.  The  citizens  refused  to  release  the  prize,  and  the  Martin  opened  fire  on 
Eastport,  but  was  soon  driven  away  by  the  guns  of  the  fort.  July  11, 1814,  a  Brit- 
i.sh  fleet  appeared  off  the  town,  and  informed  the  commander  that  if  he  did  not  haul 
down  his  flag  within  five  minutes  they  would  bombard  the  town.  The  flag  came 
down,  the  garrison  laid  down  their  arms,  and  the  hostile  fleet,  headed  by  the  Rami- 
lies,  74,  anchored  off  the  town.  British  martial  law  was  enforced  here  for  the  next 
four  years,  after  which  the  place  was  restored  to  the  United  States. 


The  steamer  Belle  Brotcn^  in  ascending  the  bay,  runs  for  some  distance 
between  Deer  Isle  and  Moose  Island.  At  about  5  M.  from  Eastport, 
Pleasant  Point  (known  to  the  Indians  as  Sybnik)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Here 
is  the  chief  settlement  rf  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians,  who  were  driven 
from  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews  nearly  a  century  ago,  and  received 
their  present  domain  from  the  .American  government.  They  are  about  400 
in  number,  and  draw  an  annuity  and  a  school-fund  from  the  Republic. 

They  are  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  Openango  tribe  of  the  Etchemin  nation,  and 
they  chng  teuaciously  to  the  faith  delivered  unto  them  of  old  by  thu  Jesuits.  Their 
church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  and  is  served  by  Indian  deacons ;  and  the  pictu- 
resque cemetery  is  in  the  same  vicinity.  They  support  themselves  by  hunting,  fish- 
ing, and  basket-making,  and  their  favorite  amusement  is  dancing,  for  which  they 
have  built  a  hall.  There  are  scarcely  any  pure-blooded  Indiana  here,  but  the 
adulteration  has  been  made  with  a  choicer  material  than  among  the  other  tribes 
since  these  are  mostly  French  half-breeds,  in  distinction  from  the  negro  ht  If-breeds 
of  the  lower  coasts.  Many  years  ago  there  was  a  controversy  about  the  chieftaincy 
in  consequence  of  which  a  portion  of  the  tribe  seceded,  and  are  now  settled  on  the 
Schoodic  Lakes. 

The  name  Passamaquoddy  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Pesmo-acadie,"  voWock- 
place"  Others  say  that  Quoddy  means  "pollock";  but  Father  Vetmniile.  the 
scholarly  Jesuit  missionary,  claims  that  the  whole  word  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian 
Peskamaquontik,  derived  from  Peskadaminkkanti,  a  term  which  signifies  ''it  eoefl 
up  into  the  open  field."  * 


J 


>Sii! 


28      Route  4. 


GRAND  MANAN. 


As  the  bay  is  entered,  above  Pleasant  Point,  the  West  Isles  are  seen 
opening  on  the  r.,  displaying  a  great  variety  of  forms  and  combinations. 
On  the  L  are  the  pleasant  shores  of  Perry,  and  far  across,  to  the  r.,  arc  the 
highlands  about  the  Magaguadavic  River.  After  passing  Navy  Island,  the 
boat  rounds  in  at  St.  Andrews. 

St.  Andrews,  the  St.  Croix  River,  and  St.  Stephen,  see  pages  33-86. 


4.  Grand  Manan. 

This  "  paradise  of  cliffs "  is  situated  off  Quoddy  Head,  about  7  M.  from  the 
Maine  coast,  and  pertains  to  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  It  is  easily  reached 
firom  Eastport  (during  fair  winds),  witli  which  it  has  a  mail  communication.  The 
summer  climate  would  be  delicious  were  it  not  for  the  fogs ;  and  it  is  claimed  that 
invalids  suffering  from  gout  and  dyspepsia  receive  much  benefit  Iiere  (very  likely 
from  the  enforced  abstinence  from  rich  food).  The  brooks  and  the  many  fresh- 
water ponds  afford  fair  trouting  and  bird-shooting,  and  a  few  deer  and  rabbits  are 
found  in  the  woods.  There  are  no  bears  nor  reptiles  on  the  island.  There  is  a 
small  inn  at  Grand  Harbor,  but  the  sojourner  will  prefer  '^^o  get  board  in  some  of 
the  private  houses.  Neat  rooms  and  simple  fore  may  there  be  obtained  for  $  4  -  7  a 
week. 

"  As  we  advanced,  Manan  gradually  rose  above  the  waves  and  changed  its  a.spcct, 
the  flat-topped  purple  wall  being  transmuted  into  brown,  rugged,  ])crpendicular 
cliffs,  crowned  with  dark  green  foliage.  Passing,  as  we  did,  close  in  by  the  extreme 
northern  point,  we  were  impressed  by  its  beauty  and  graud<£ur,  which  fur  exceeds 
even  that  of  the  cliffs  at  Mount  Desert. 

"  As  a  place  of  summer  resort.  Grand  Manan  is  in  some  respects  unequalled.  At 
certain  seaso.is  the  fog  is  abundant,  yet  that  can  be  endui'ed.  Here  the  opportuni- 
ties for  recreation  are  unequalled,  and  all  persons  fond  of  grand  sea-shore  views 
may  indulge  their  taste  without  limit.  The  people  are  invariably  kind  and  trust- 
worthy, and  American  mannei-s  and  customs  prevail  to  such  an  extent  that  travel- 
lers at  once  feel  at  home."    (De  Costa.) 

The  island  of  Grand  Manan  is  22  M.  long  and  3-6  M.  wide,  and  lies  in 
the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whose  powerful  tides  sweep  impetuously 
by  its  shores.  It  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  who  dwell  along  the  road 
which  connects  the  harbors  on  the  E.  shore,  and  are  famous  for  their 
daring  and  expertness  in  the  fisheries.  They  have  3  schools,  6  churches 
(mostly  Baptist),  and  a  military  organization;  while  the  advantages  of 
free-trade,  insignificant  taxation,  government-built  roads,  and  complete 
self-legislation,  give  re.ison  for  the  apostrophe,  *'  Happy  Mananites,  wlio, 
free  from  grinding  taxation,  now  rove  out  from  rock-bound  coves,  and 
quarry  at  will  in  the  silvery  mines  of  the  sea!  "  The  harbors  on  the  E. 
shore  afford  safe  shelter  for  small  vessels,  and  are  connected  with  the 
great  cliff's  on  the  W.  by  narrow  roads  through  the  woods.  The  fisheries 
of  cod,  herring,  and  haddock  are  very  extensive  in  this  vicinity,  and  form 
the  chief  resource  of  the  people,  who  are  distinguished  for  the  quaint  sim- 
plicity which  usually  pertains  to  small  and  Insulated  maritime  communi- 
ties. Grand  Manan  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite  resort  for  Amr  .- 
lean  marine  painters,  who  find  excellent  studies  in  its  picturesqtie  cliff's 
and  billowy  seas.  It  was  visited  by  Champlain  in  1605,  but  was  occupied 
only  by  the  Indians  for  180  years  after.  Col.  Allan,  the  American  com- 
mander in  E.  Maine  during  the  Revolution,  held  the  island  with  his  Indian 


GRAND  MANAN. 


Jioute  4.       29 


3  are  seen 
nbiuations. 
!  r.,are  the 
Island,  the 

!S  33-36. 


M.  from  the 
asily  reached 
ration.  The 
claimed  that 

(very  liitdy 
many  fresh- 
d  rabbits  are 

There  is  a 
d  in  some  of 
i  for  $4-7 a 

ed  its  aspect, 
wrpendicular 
r  tlie  extreme 
A  fur  exceeds 

?qualled.  At 
le  opportuni- 
a-shore  Tiews 
ad  and  trust- 
it  that  travel- 


,  and  lies  in 
mpctuously 
)ng  the  road 
is  for  their 
,  5  churches 
vantages  of 
id  complete 
[inites,  wlio, 
coves,  and 
•s  on  the  E. 
;d  with  the 
'he  fisheries 
y,  and  form 
quaint  sini- 
e  commnni- 
rt  for  Amfi- 
resque  cliffs 
■as  occupied 
erican  com- 
h  his  Indian 


i 


auxiliaries,  but  it  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain.  After  the  war  it 
was  settled  by  several  Loyalists  from  Massachusetts,  chief  among  whom 
was  Moses  Gerrish.  A  recent  writer  demands  that  the  island  be  fortified 
and  developed,  claiming  that  its  situation,  either  for  commerce  or  war, 
is  strategically  as  valuable  as  those  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  Guernsey,  and 
Jersey,  and  that  it  would  make  a  fine  point  of  attack  against  Portland 
and  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Grand  Harbor  is  the  chief  of  the  island  hamlets,  and  is  situated  on  the 
safe  and  shallow  bay  of  the  same  name.  It  has  an  Episcopal  church  of 
stone  and  two  or  three  stores,  besides  a  small  inn.  Off  shore  to  the  S.  E. 
lie  Ross,  Cheyne,  and  White  Head  Islands,  on  the  latter  of  which  Audu- 
bon studied  the  habits  of  the  herring-gulls,  in  1833.  To  the  E.  are  the 
rock-bound  shores  of  Nantucket  Island,  and  on  the  S.  are  the  Grand 
Ponds. 

The  South  Shore  is  reached  by  a  good  road  leading  down  from  Grand 
Harbor.  At  6  M.  distance  is  the  narrow  harbor  of  Seal  Cove,  beyond 
which  the  road  lies  nearer  to  the  sea,  affording  fine  marine  views  on  the 
1.,  including  the  Wood  Islands  and  the  Gannet  Rock  Lighthouse,  9-10 
M.  at  sea.  4  M.  beyond  Seal  Cove  the  road  reaches  Broad  Cove,  whence 
a  path  leads  across  the  downs  for  about  2  M.  to  the  high  and  ocean- 
viewing  cliffs  of  S.  W.  Head.  Among  the  rugged  and  surf-beaten  rocks 
of  this  bold  promontory  is  one  which  is  called  the  Old  Maid,  from  its 
rude  resemblance  to  a  colossal  woman.  About  the  S.  W.  Head  is  a  favor- 
ite resort  and  breeding-place  of  the  gulls,  whose  nests  are  made  in  the 
grass.  A  forest-path  leads  N.  to  Bradford's  Cove,  on  the  W.  shore,  a 
wide  bight  of  the  sea  in  which  the  ship  Mavoui^een  was  wrecked. 

The  North  Shore.  The  road  from  Grand  Harbor  to  Whale  Cove  is  7- 8 
M.  long,  and  is  firm  and  well-made.  3  M.  N.  of  Grand  Harbor,  Wood- 
ward's Cove  is  passed,  with  its  neat  hamlet,  4  M.  beyond  which  is  Flagg's 
Cove.  Sprague'8  Cove  is  a  pretty  fishing-hamlet  on  the  S.  side  of  Swal- 
low-Tail  Head,  where  "everything  appears  to  have  been  arranged  for 
artistic  effect.  The  old  boats,  the  tumble-down  storehouses,  the  pic- 
turesque costumes,  the  breaki:»g  surf,  and  all  the  miscellaneous  para- 
phernalia of  such  a  place,  set  off  as  they  are  by  the  noble  background 
of  richly-colored  clifl's,  produce  an  effect  that  is  as  rare  as  beautiful." 
Swallow-Tail  Head  is  a  fan-shaped  peninsula,  surrounded  by  wave-worn 
cliffs,  and  swept  by  gales  from  every  quarter.  On  its  outer  point  is  a 
lighthouse  which  holds  a  fixed  liglit  (visible  for  17  M.)  148  ft.  above 
the  sea. 

Whale  Cove  is  on  the  N.  E.  shore,  and  is  bordered  by  a  shingle-beach 
on  which  are  found  bits  of  porphyry,  agate,  jasper,  and  other  minerals. 
"  Here  the  view  is  surprisingly  fine,  the  entire  shore  being  encircled  by 
immense  cliffs  that  rise  up  around  the  border  of  the  blue  waves,  with  a 
richness  of  color  and  stateliness  of  aspect  that  cannot  fail  to  impress  tho 


(I 
til 


30      Jioute  5. 


GRAND  MANAN. 


beholder On  the  E.  side  is  Fish  Head,  and  on  the  W.  Eel  Brook  and 

Northern  Head,  the  latter  extending  out  beyond  its  neighbor,  and  be- 
tween are  the  bine  sky  and  water."  On  the  melancholy  cliffs  at  Eel 
Brook  Cove  the  ship  Lord  Ashburton  was  wrecked,  and  nearly  all  on 
board  were  lost  (21  of  them  are  buried  at  Flagg's  Cove).  Beyond  this 
point,  and  near  the  extreme  northern  cape,  is  the  Bishop^s  Head,  so  called 
because  of  a  vague  profile  in  the  face  of  the  cliff. 

The  W.  coast  of  Grand  ^lanan  is  lined  with  a  succession  of  massive  cliffs, 
which  appear  from  West  Quoddy  like  a  long  and  unbroken  purple  wall. 
These  great  precipices  are  3-400  ft.  high  (attaining  their  greatest  eleva- 
tion at  the  N.  end),  and  form  noble  combinations  of  marine  scenery.  A 
cart-track  leads  across  the  island  from  near  Woodward's  Cove  to  the  ro- 
mantic scenery  about  Dark  Cove ;  near  which  is  Money  Cove,  so  named 
because  search  has  been  made  there  for  some  of  Capt.  Kidd's  burled 
treasures.  To  the  N.  is  Indian  Beach,  where  several  lodges  of  the  Passa- 
maquoddy  tribe  pass  the  summer,  attending  to  the  shore  fishery  of  por- 
poises. Still  farther  N.  are  the  rocky  palisades  and  whirling  currents  of 
Long's  Eddy. 

"  When  the  cliff  Is  brought  out  on  such  a  stupendous  scale  as  at  Grand  Mnnan, 
with  all  the  accessories  of  a  wild  ocean  shore,  the  interest  becomes  absorbing.  The 
other  parts  of  the  island  are  of  course  invested  with  much  interest.  The  low  eastern 
shore,  fringed  with  small  islands  and  rocks,  affords  many  picturesque  sights.  In  a 
pleasant  day  a  walk  southward  has  many  charms.  The  bright  sky,  the  shingle 
beach,  the  picturesque  boats,  and  blue  land-locked  bays  continually  enforce  the 
admiration  of  an  artistic  eye,  and  allure  the  pedestrian  on  pm^t  cape,  cove,  and 
reach,  until  he  suddenly  finds  that  miles  of  ground  intervene  between  him  and  his 
dinner."    (De  Costa.) 

"  Grand  Manan,  a  favorite  summer  haunt  of  the  painter,  is  the  very  throne  of 
the  bold  and  romantic.  The  high  precipitous  shores, but  for  the  woodswhich  beau- 
tify them,  are  quite  in  the  style  of  Labrador."    (L.  L.  Moble.  ) 


Charlevoix  speaks  of  an  old-time  wonder  which  seems  to  have  passed  away  from 
these  shores  ;  "  It  is  even  asserted  that  at  3  of  a  league  off  Isle  Menane,  which  serves 
as  a  guide  to  ve-ssels  to  enter  St.  John's  River,  there  is  a  rock,  almost  always  cov- 
ered by  the  sea,  which  is  of  lapis-laznli.  It  is  added  that  Commander  de  Ilazilli 
broke  off  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Penys,  who  had  seen  it,  sajs 
that  it  was  valued  at  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 

5.  St  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen.— Fassama- 

qnoddy  Bay. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  Reed's  Point  AVharf  every  Thursday  and  Saturday,  at  8 
A.M.,  and  reaches  St.  Stephen  before  dark.  She  returns  from  St.  Stephen  every 
Monday  and  Friday  morning.  Fares,  St.  John  to  St.  George,  $  1.76 ;  to  St.  An- 
drews, $1.50;  to  St.  Stephen,  $1.75.  This  route  was  serve<l  in  1874  by  the  famous 
Cuban  blockade-runner  Ed^ar  Stuart,  but  another  vessel  will  run  here  in  1875. 

St.  John  to  St.  Andrews  by  stage. 

The  Royal  Mail  traverses  this  route  daily  over  roads  which  are  rugged  nnd  tire- 
some. Distances:  St.  John  to  Fairvllle,  2J  M.  -,  Spruce  Ijike,  7  ;  Prince  of  Wales, 
11  ;  Musquash,  14;  Lepreau,  25:  New  River,  a3;  Pennfleld,  39;  St.  George,  45; 
Bocabcc,  55;  St.  Andrews,  65.  Fare,  $4.  Tlie  Bay  Shore  Rjiilway  is  a  new  line 
which  was  recently  projected,  and  is  intended  to  follow  the  direction  of  this  mail- 
route. 


BAY  OF  FUNDY. 


Eoute  5.       31 


Brook  and 
,  and  be- 
ffs  at  Eel 
rly  all  on 
;yond  this 
I,  so  called 

ssive  cliffs, 
urple  wall, 
itest  eleva- 

enery.  A 
e  to  the  ro- 
,  so  named 
d's  burled 

the  Passa- 
lery  of  por- 
currents  of 


rand  Mnnan, 
orbing.  The 
le  low  eastern 
Bights.  In  a 
,  the  shingle 
r  enforce  the 
pe,  cove,  and 
I  him  and  his 

cry  throne  of 
s  which  beau- 


«d  away  from 
,  which  scrres 
■it  always  cov- 
der  de  llazilli 
d  seen  it,  sujs 


Fassama- 


Saturday,  at  8 
Uoplicn  every 
'lb  ;  to  St.  An- 
by  the  famous 
•e  iu  1875. 


igged  and  tire- 
ince  of  \Valc.«, 
t.  George,  41'); 
is  a  new  line 
IU  of  this  mail- 


After  leaving  the  harbor  of  St.  John  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  by  \V.  9  J 
M.,  passing  the  openings  of  Manawagonish  Bay  and  Pisarinco  Cove.  The 
course  is  laid  well  out  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  which  •'  wears  a  beautiful 
aspect  in  fine  summer  weather,  —a  soft  chalky  hue  quite  different  from 
the  stern  blue  of  the  sea  on  the  Atlantic  shores,  and  somewhat  approach- 
ing the  summer  tints  of  the  channel  on  the  coast  of  England."  Beyond 
the  point  of  Split  Rock,  Musquash  Harbor  is  seen  openiiTg  to  the  N.  It  is 
a  safe  and  beautiful  haven,  2  M.  long  and  very  deep,  at  whose  head  is  the 
pretty  Episcopal  village  of  Musquash  (Musquash  Hotel),  with  several  lum- 
ber-mills. About  two  centuries  ago  a  French  war-vessel  was  driven  into 
this  harbor  and  destroyed  by  a  British  cruiser.  From  Split  Rock  the 
course  is  W.  ^  S.  for  llj  M.  to  Point  Lepreau,  passing  the  openings  of 
Chance  Harbor  and  Dipper  Harbor,  in  which  are  obscure  marine  hamlets. 
In  the  latter,  m.iny  years  ago,  the  frigate  Plumper  was  wrecked,  with  a 
large  amount  of  specie  on  board.  The  harbor  is  now  visited  mostly  by 
lobster-fishers.  Point  Lepreau  is  a  bold  and  tide-swept  promontory,  on 
which  are  two  fixed  lights,  visible  for  18  and  20  M.  at  sea. 

The  traveller  will  doubtless  be  amazed  at  the  rudeness  and  sterility  of  these  frown- 
ing shores.  "  Two  very  different  impressions  in  regard  to  the  Province  of  New 
Brunswick  will  be  produced  on  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  according  as  he  contents 
himself  with  visiting  the  towns  and  inspecting  the  lands  which  lie  along  the  sea- 
board, or  ascends  its  rivers,  or  penetrates  by  its  numerous  roads  into  the  interior  of 
its  more  central  and  northern  counties.  In  the  former  case  he  will  feel  like  tho 
traveller  who  enters  Sweden  by  the  harbors  of  Stockholm  and  Oottenburg,  or  who 
sails  among  the  rocks  on  the  western  coast  of  Norway.  The  naked  cliffs  or  shelving 
shores  of  granite  or  other  hardened  rocks,  and  the  unvarying  pine  forests,  awaken 
in  his  mind  ideas  of  hopeless  desol!;Mon,  and  poverty  and  barrenness  appear  neces- 
sarily to  dwell  within  the  iron-bound  shores But  on  the  other  hand,  if  tho 

stranger  penetrate  beyond  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the  Province  and  travel  through 
the  interior,  he  will  be  struck  by  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  rivers,  by  the  fertility 
of  its  river  islands  and  intervales,  and  by  the  great  extent  aud  excellent  condition 
of  its  roads."    (Prof.  J.  F.  W.  Jounston,  F.  R.  S.) 

From  Point  Lepreau  the  course  is  laid  nearly  W.  for  16.^  M.  to  Bliss 
Island,  crossing  the  bight  of  Mace's  Bay,  a  wide  and  shallow  estuary  in 
which  are  two  fishing-hamlets.  The  Saturday  steamer  stops  on  this  reach 
at  Beaver  Harbor,  a  place  of  150  inhabitants.  S.  of  this  harbor,  and  seen 
on  the  1.  of  the  course,  are  the  five  black  and  dangerous  islets  called  the 
Wolves,  much  dreaded  by  navigators.  A  vessel  of  the  International  Steam- 
ship Company  was  wrecked  here  two  or  three  years  ago.  One  of  the 
Wolves  bears  a  revolving  light,  111  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  16  Ikl. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  Bliss  Island  (which  has  a  fixed  red  light),  and 
to  the  N.  is  seen  the  entrance  to  V  Etang  Harbor,  a  deep  and  picturesque 
inlet  which  is  well  sheltered  by  islands,  tho  largest  of  which  is  called  Cai- 
tiff. A  few  miles  S.  W.  are  seen  the  rolling  hills  of  Campobello;  Deer 
Island  is  nearer,  on  the  W. ;  and  the  bay  is  studded  with  weird-looking 
hummocky  islands, —  the  Nubble,  White,  and  Spruce  Islands,  the  grim 
trap-rock  manielon  of  White  Horse,  and  many  other  nameless  rocks. 
They  arc  known  as  tho  West  Isles,  and  most  of  them  are  inhabited  by 


32      Route  5. 


ST.  GEORGR 


hard-working  fishermen.  The  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  W.  through  Vzq 
Leiite  Passage,  between  MacMaster  Island  and  the  Peninsula  of  Masca- 
rene,  and  Passamaquoddy  Bay  is  entered.  Sweeping  up  to  the  N.,  along 
and  close  to  a  bold  shore  150-225  ft.  high,  the  steamer  rounds  the  Mijic 
Bluff'  on  the  r.  and  enters  the  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  Magaguadavic 
River.  To  the  N.  are  the  wooded  slopes  of  Mount  Blair,  and  some  distance 
up  the  estuary  is  the  hamlet  of  Mascarene.  The  vessel  drifts  about  in  the 
harbor  while  passengers  and  freight  are  transferred  to  the  dingy  little 
steamer  that  ascends  to  St.  George. 

St.  George  (three  inns)  is  a  town  of  600  inhabitants,  devoted  to  the 
lumber-trade,  and  situated  about  10  M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  It 
has  4  churches,  a  masonic  hall,  and  a  custom-house.  It  is  at  the  head  of 
tide,  and  ships  can  load,  in  the  deep  water  below,  all  the  year  round. 
This  district  has  recently  become  celebrated  for  its  production  of  a  fine 
granite,  of  a  rose-red  color,  which  I'eceives  a  high  polish,  and  is  being 
introduced  for  ornamental  columns  and  monuments.  It  resembles  the 
beautiful  Scotch  granite  of  Peterhead  (popularly  called  "Aberdeen  gran- 
ite"). At  St.  George  are  the  *  Loioer  Falls  of  the  Magaguadavic,  where 
the  river  is  compressed  into  a  chasm  30  ft.  wide,  and  falls  100  ft.  in  five 
successive  steps.  Along  the  sides  of  the  gorge  are  several  powerful  saw- 
mills, clinging  to  the  rocks  like  eagles'  nests,  and  sluicing  their  lumber 
into  the  deep  pools  below.  Geologists  have  found,  in  this  vicinity,  marked 
evidences  of  the  action  of  icebergs  and  glaciers. 

"The  village,  the  cataract,  the  lake,  and  the  elevated  wilderness  to  the  N., render 
this  part  of  the  country  peculiarly  picturesque ;  indeed,  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
George,  the  Digdcguash,  Chanicook,  and  the  lower  St.  Croix,  present  the  traveller 
with  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  America."    (Dr.  Gesner.) 

Lake  Utopia  is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  deep  and  sheltered  depression  among 
forest-covered  hills,  along  whose  slopes  ledges  of  red  granite  crop  out  here  and  there. 
It  is  about  4  M.  from  St.  George,  and  is  6  M.  long  by  1-2  M.  wide.  Tlie  road  from 
Beaver  Harbor  to  Gagetown  follows  its  E.  shore  through  an  almost  unbroken  soli- 
tude. On  a  bluff  over  this  lake  the  earliest  pioneers  found  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
and  mysterious  temple,  all  traces  of  which  have  now  passed  away.  Here  also  wa,s 
found  a  slab  of  red  granite,  bearing  a  large  bas-relief  of  a  human  head,  in  style  re- 
Bcmbling  an  Egyptian  sculpture,  and  having  a  Jikeness  to  Washington.  This  re- 
markable medallion  has  been  placed  in  the  Natural  History  Museum  at  St.  John. 
For  nearly  40  years  the  Indians  and  lumbermen  near  the  lake  have  told  marvellous 
stories  of  a  marine  prodigy  called  "  the  Monster  of  Utopia,"  which  dwells  in  this 
fair  forest-loch.  His  last  appearance  was  in  1867,  when  several  persons  about  the 
shores  claimed  to  have  seen  furious  disturbances  of  the  waters,  and  to  have  caught 
momentary  glimpses  of  an  animal  10  ft.  thick  and  30  ft.  long.  The  lake  abounds  in 
silvery-gray  trout,  and  its  tributary  streams  contain  many  brook-trout  and  smelt. 

Among  the  hills  along  the  valley  of  the  Magaguadavic  River  are  the  favorite  haunts 
of  large  numbers  of  Virginian  deer.  Moose  were  formerly  abundant  in  this  region, 
and  it  is  but  a  few  years  since  over  400  were  killed  in  one  season,  for  the  sake  of  their 
hides.  This  noble  game  animal  has  been  nenrly  exterminated  by  the  mercUess  set- 
tlers, and  will  soon  become  extinct  in  this  district. 

The  Magaguadavic  Kiver  (an  Indian  name  meaning  "The  River  of  the 
Hills")  rises  in  a  chain  of  lakes  over  80  M,  N.  W.,  within  a  short  portage  of  the 
Sheogomoc  River,  a  tributary  of  the  upper  St.  John.  Traversing  the  great  Lake 
of  Magaguadavic  it  descends  through  an  uninhabited  and  barren  highland  region, 
tersely  described  by  an  early  pioneer  as  "  a  scraggly  hole."  Much  of  its  lower  valley 
is  a  wide  intervale,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  an  ancient  lake-bottom.  The 
river  is  followed  closely  by  a  rugged  road,  which  leads  to  the  remote  Harvey  and 
Magaguadavic  suttiements. 


ST.   ANDREWS. 


Route  6.       33 


through  t!:e 
la  of  Masca- 
he  N.,  along 
els  the  Mijic 
fagaguadavic 
ome  distance 
about  hi  the 
dingy  Httle    f 

voted  to  the 

the  river.    It 

t  the  head  of 

year  round. 

Jon  of  a  fine 

and  is  being 

esembles  the 

jerdeen  gran- 

idavic,  where 

100  ft.  in  five 

jowerful  saw- 

their  Uimber 

inity,  marked    * 


3  the  N.,  render 
kborhood  of  St. 
at  the  travelkr 

ipression  among 
here  and  there. 
The  road  from 
unbroken  8oli- 
ns  of  an  ancient 
Here  also  was 
Bad,  in  style  re- 
gton.  This  re- 
ini  at  St.  John, 
told  marvellous 
k  dwells  in  tbif 
rsons  about  the 
to  have  caught 
lake  abounds  ia 
ut  and  smelt. 
favorite  haunts 
t  in  this  region, 
the  sake  of  their 
le  mere' less  set- 

16  River  of  the 
portage  of  the 
the  great  Lake 
ligliland  region, 
its  lower  valley 
e-bottom.  The 
}te  Ilarvey  and 


After  leaving  the  port  of  St.  George,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  across  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  with  the  West  Isles  and  the  heights  of  Deer  Island  on 
the  S.,  and  other  bold  hummocks  on  either  side.  On  the  N.  are  the  estua- 
ries of  the  Digdeguash  and  Bocabec  Rivers,  and  the  massive  ridge  of  the 
Chamcook  Mt.  Large  fleets  of  fishing-boats  are  sometimes  met  in  these 
waters,  following  the  schools  of  herring  or  pollock.  In  about  an  hour,  the 
steamer  approaches  St.  Andrews,  passes  its  great  summer  hotel,  and  lands 
between  Navy  Island  and  the  peninsula. 

St.  Andrews  ( Central  Exchange,  $  1.50  a  day),  the  capital  of  Charlotte 
County,  is  finely  situated  on  a  peninsula  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix 
River,  which  is  here  2  M.  wide.  It  has  about  i,800  inhabitants,  and  a  few- 
quiet  old  streets,  surrounded  by  a  broad  belt  of  farms.  The  town  was 
founded  about  a  century  ago,  and  soon  acquired  considerable  commercial 
importance,  and  had  large  fleets  in  its  harbor,  loading  with  timber  for 
Great  Britain  and  the  West  Indies.  This  era  of  prosperity  was  ended  by 
the  rise  of  the  town  of  St.  Stephen  and  by  the  operation  of  the  Reciprocity 
Treaty,  and  for  many  years  St.  Andrews  has  been  retrograding,  until  now 
the  wharves  are  deserted  and  dilapidated,  and  the  houses  seem  antiquated 
and  neglected.  It  has  recently  attracted  summer  visitors,  on  account  of 
the  pleasant  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  boating,  fishing,  and  excursions 
among  the  adjacent  islands.  A  large  and  handsome  summer  hotel  has 
been  erected  near  the  shore,  but  the  enterprise  of  the  town  has  not  been 
able  to  furnish  it,  so  that  it  is  not  eligible  to  tourists,  who  must  therefore 
dwell  at  the  village  inns. 

Steamboats  run  daily  between  St.  Andrews  and  Eastport,  Calais,  and  St.  Stephen. 
There  is  a  ferry  to  the  American  village  of  Robbinston,  2  M.  distant.  The  New 
Brunswick  and  Canada  Railway  runs  thence  to  Houltou  and  Woodstock,  90  and  93 
M.  N.    (See  Route  6.) 

The  Chamcook  Mt.  is  about  6  M.  N.  of  St.  Andrew,  and  its  base  is 
reached  by  a  good  road  (visitors  can  also  go  by  railway  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain).  It  is  often  ascended  by  parties  for  the  sake  of  the  beautiful 
view,  which  includes  *'  the  lovely  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  with  its  little 
islands  and  outline  recalling  recollections  of  the  Gulf  of  Naples  as  seen 
from  the  summit  of  Vesuvius,  whilst  the  scenery  toward  the  N.  is  hilly, 
with  deep  intervening  troughs  containing  natural  tarns,  where  the  togue  or 
gray-spotted  trout  is  plentiful."  The  bright  course  of  the  St.  Croix  River 
is  visible  for  a  long  distance,  and  numerous  pretty  frontier-villages  are  seen 
on  either  shore.  '•  The  glacial  rounded  top  "  of  Chamcook  is  scored  with 
the  long  scratches  which  indicate  that  at  some  remote  age  a  glacier  from 
the  northern  highlands  has  grated  and  ground  its  way  across  the  moun- 
tain. The  views  of  the  Chamcook  Lake  and  Harbor,  and  of  the  numerous 
conical  hills  to  the  N.,  are  of  much  interest. 

As  the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  river,  the  little  ship-building  village 
of  Robbinston  is  seen,  on  the  American  shore.    On  the  r.  the  bold  bluffs  of 


I 


it    ' 


34      iiou^e  J. 


ST.  CROIX  RIVER. 


Chamcook  Mt.  are  passed,  and  occasional  fann-houses  are  seen  along  the 
shores.  6  -  6  M.  above  St.  Andrews,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  E.  side  of 
Doucet's  Island,  on  which  a  lighthouse  has  been  erected  by  the  Ameri- 
can  government.  W.  of  the  island  is  the  village  of  ^ed  Beach,  with  its 
plaster-mills,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  farming  settlement  of  Bay 
Shore. 

In  the  year  1604  Henri  IT.  of  France  granted  a  large  part  of  America  to  Pierre  du 
Ouast,  Sieur  de  Monta,  and  Governor  of  Pons.  This  tract  extended  from  Phila- 
delphia  to  Quebec,  and  was  named  Acadie,  which  is  said  to  be  derived  from  a  local 
Indian  word.  De  Monts  sailed  from  Havre  in  April,  with  a  motley  company  of  im- 
pressed vagabonds,  gentlemen-adventurers,  and  Iluguenot  and  Catholic  clergymen, 
the  latter  of  whom  quarrelled  all  the  way  over.  After  exploring  parts  of  Nova 
Scotia  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  voyagers  ascended  the  Passamaquoddy  Bay  and 
the  river  to  St.  Croix  Isle,  where  it  was  determined  to  found  a  settlement.  Uat- 
teries  were  erected  at  each  end,  joined  by  palisades,  within  which  were  the  houses 
of  De  Monts  and  Champlain,  workshops,  magazines,  the  chapel,  and  the  barracks  of 
the  Swiss  soldiery.  But  the  winter  soon  set  in  with  its  intense  cold,  and  the  rav- 
ages of  disease  were  added  to  the  miseries  of  the  colonists.  36  out  of  79  men  died 
of  the  scurvy  during  the  winter ;  and  when  a  supply-ship  arrived  from  France,  in 
June,  the  island  was  abandoned. 

"It  is  meet  to  tell  you  how  hard  the  isle  of  Sainte  Croix  is  to  be  found  out  to 
them  that  never  were  there ;  for  there  are  so  many  isles  and  great  bays  t(  go  by 
(from  St.  John)  before  one  be  at  it,  that  I  wonder  how  one  might  ever  pierce  so  far 
as  to  find  it.  There  are  three  or  four  mountains  imminent  above  the  others,  on  the 
sides ;  but  on  the  N.  side,  from  whence  the  river  runneth  down,  there  is  but  a  sharp 
pointed  one,  above  two  leagues  distant.  The  woods  of  the  main  land  are  fair  and 
admirable  high,  and  well  grown,  as  in  like  manner  is  the  grass Now  let  us  pre- 
pare and  hoist  sails.  M.  de  Poutrincourt  made  the  voyage  into  these  parts,  with 
some  men  of  good  sort,  nut  to  winter  there,  but  as  it  were  to  seek  out  his  seat,  and 
find  out  a  land  that  might  like  him.  Which  be  having  done,  had  no  need  to  sojourn 
there  any  longer."  Late  in  the  year.  "  the  most  urgent  things  being  done,  and 
hoary  snowy  father  being  come,  that  is  to  say,  Winter,  then  they  were  forced  to 
keep  within  doors,  and  to  live  every  one  at  his  own  home.  During  which  time  our 
men  had  three  special  discommodities  in  this  island :  want  of  wood  (for  that  which 
vras  in  the  said  isle  was  spent  in  buildings),  lack  of  fresh  water,  and  the  continual 
watch  made  by  night,  fearing  some  surprise  from  the  savages  that  had  lodged  them- 
selves at  the  foot  of  the  said  island,  or  some  other  enemy.  For  the  malediction  and 
rage  of  many  Christians  is  such,  that  one  must  take  heed  of  them  much  more  than 
of  infidels."    (Lescarbot's  Nouvelle  France.) 

In  1783  the  river  St.  Croix  was  designated  as  the  E.  boundary  of  Maine,  but  the 
Americans  claimed  that  the  true  St.  Croix  was  the  stream  called  the  Magaguadavic. 
It  then  became  important  to  find  traces  of  De  Monts's  settlement  of  180  years  pre- 
vious, as  that  would  locate  the  true  St.  Croix  River.  So,  after  long  searching  among 
the  bushes  and  jungle,  the  boundary-commissioners  succeeded  in  finding  remnants 
of  the  ancient  French  occupation  on  Neutral  (Doucet's)  Island,  and  thus  fixed  the 
line. 

About  10  M.  above  St.  Andrews  the  river  deflects  to  the  W.,  and  to  tlie 
N.  is  seen  the  deep  and  spacious  *  Oak  Bay,  surrounded  by  bold  hills,  and 
forming  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  prospect.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
French  explorers  named  the  St.  Croix  River  from  the  resemblance  of  its 
■waters  at  this  point  to  a  cross,  —  the  upright  arm  being  formed  by  the 
river  to  the  S.  and  Oak  Bay  to  the  N.,  while  the  horizontal  arm  is  outlined 
by  the  river  to  the  W.  and  a  cove  and  creek  on  the  E.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay  is  the  populous  farming-village  of  Oak  Bay,  with  three  churches. 

Rounding  on  the  1.  the  bold  bluff  called  Devil's  Head  (from  one  Duval, 
who  formerly  lived  there),  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  W.,  in  a  narrow 


ST.  STEPHEN. 


Itoute  6. 


35 


en  along  the 
he  E.  side  of 
y  the  Ameri- 
2rtc/i,  with  Its 
iment  of  Ba^ 

ca  to  Pierro  du 
L'd  from  Phila. 
jil  from  a  local 
iompany  of  jm- 
olic  clergymen, 
parts  of  Nova 
loddy  Bay  and 
btletnent.  ISat- 
ircrc  the  houses 
the  barracks  of 
d,  and  the  rav- 
3f  79  men  died 
rom  France,  in 

te  found  out  to 

bays  t(  go  by 
■er  piert  e  so  far 
e  others,  on  the 
e  is  but  a  sharp 
Dd  are  fair  and 

Now  let  us  pre- 
lese  parts,  with 
ut  his  seat,  and 

need  to  sojourn 
)eing  done,  and 

were  forced  to 
which  time  our 
[for  that  which 
1  the  continual 
id  lodged  theui- 
[nalediction  and 
uch  more  than 

Maine,  but  the 
!  Magaguadavic, 
f  180  years  prc- 
earching  among 
nding  remnants 
I  thus  fixed  the 

^V.,  and  to  the 
bold  hills,  and 
losed  that  the 
nblance  of  its 
formed  by  the 
irm  is  outlined 
he  head  of  the 
churches, 
m  one  Duval, 
.,  in  a  narrow 


channel,  between  sterile  shores.  2-3  M.  above  is  the  antiquated  marine 
hamlet  called  The  Ledge  (1.  bank),  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  depend- 
ent on  the  sea  for  their  living.  4  M.  above  this  point  the  steamer  reaches 
her  dock  at  St.  Stephen. 

St.  Stephen  ( Watson  House)  is  an  active  and  enterprising  provincial 
town  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  opposite 
the  American  city  of  Calais.  The  population  is  about  5,000,  with  6 
churches  2  newspapers,  and  2  banks.  The  business  of  St.  Stephen  is 
mostly  connected  with  the  manufacture  and  shipment  of  lumber.  The 
falls  of  the  river  at  this  point  give  a  valuable  water-power,  which  will 
probably  be  devoted  to  general  manufacturing  purposes  after  the  lumber 
supply  begins  to  fail.  A  covered  bridge  connects  St.  Stephen  with  Calais 
{International  Hotel;  St.  Croix  Exchange),  a  small  city  of  the  State  of 
Maine,  with  6^000  inhabitants,  7  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  2  banks. 
Although  under  different  flags,  and  separated  by  lines  of  customs-officers, 
St.  Stephen  and  Calais  form  practically  but  one  community,  with  identi- 
cal pursuits  and  interests.  Their  citizens  have  always  lived  in  perfect 
fraternity,  and  formed  and  kept  an  agreement  by  which  they  abstained 
from  hostilities  during  the  War  of  1812.  At  that  time  the  authorities  also 
restrained  the  restless  spirits  from  the  back  country  from  acts  of  violence 
across  the  borders.  2-3  M.  above  is  another  Canado-American  town, 
with  large  lumber-mills  at  the  falls,  which  is  divided  by  the  river  into 
Milltown-St.  Stephen  and  Milltown-Calais.  Travellers  who  cross  the  river 
either  at  CaL.is  or  Milltown  will  have  their  baggage  looked  into  by  the 
customs-officers,  squads  of  whom  are  stationed  at  the  ends  of  the  bridges. 

The  New  Brunswick  &  Canada  Railway  runs  N.  from  St.  Stephen  to  Houlton  and 
Woodstock  (see  Route  6).  Calais  is  connected  with  the  Schoodic  Lakes  by  railway, 
and  with  Eastport  by  stages.  The  U.  S.  Mail-stage  runs  daily  to  Bangor,  95  M.  W. 
(fare,  $750),  passing  through  a  wide  tract  of  unoccupied  wilderness.  The  steam- 
boat Belle  Broiim  leaves  Calais  or  St.  Stephen  tri-weekly  for  St.  Andrews  and  East- 
port,  where  it  connects  with  the  International  ste.amships  for  Portland  and  Boston 
(see  also  Route  3,  and  Osgood's  New  England).  Fares,  Calais  to  Portland,  $4.50 ; 
to  Boston,  by  water,  $  5.50 ;  to  Boston,  by  rail  from  Portland,  $  7. 

The  Schoodic  Lakes. 

A  railway  runs  21  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Lewey^s  Island  (2  inns), 
in  Princeton,  whence  the  tourist  may  enter  the  lovely  and  picturesque 
Schoodic  Lakes.  The  steamer  Gipsey  carries  visitors  12  M.  up  the  lake  to 
Grand  Lake  Stream,  one  of  the  most  famous  fishing-grounds  in  America. 
The  trout  in  Lewey's  Lake  have  been  nearly  exterminated  by  the  voracious 
pike,  but  the  upper  waters  are  more  carefully  guarded,  and  contain  perch, 
pickerel,  land-locked  salmon,  lake-trout,  and  fine  speckled-trout.  The 
Grand  Lake  Stream  is  3-4  M.  long,  and  connects  the  Grand  and  Big 
Lakes  with  its  rapid  waters,  in  which  are  found  many  of  the  famous  sil- 
ver)' salmon-trout.  The  urban  parties  who  visit  these  forest-lakes  usually 
engage  Indian  guides  to  do  the  heavy  work  of  portages  and  camp-build- 


3G      Jioute  6. 


SCHOODIC  LAKES. 


^< 


1 

1      ft- 

|i!    r 

1, 

1  =    1 

i  '' 

1 

! 

:       1 

ing,  and  to  guide  their  course  from  lake  to  lake.    There  is  a  largo  village 

of  the  Passamaquoddy  tribe  near  the  foot  of  Big  Lake.     A  two  hours' 

portiige  leads  to  Grand  Lake,  a  broad  and  beautiful  forest-sea,  -with 

gravelly  shores,  picturesque  islets,  and  transparent  waters.    The  cry  of 

the  loon  is  often  heard  here,  and  a  few  bear  and  deer  still  lurk  along  the 

shores.    From  Grand  Lake  a  labyrinth  of  smaller  and  yet  more  remote 

lakes  may  be  entered  ;   and  portages  conduct  thence  to  the  navigable 

tributaries  of  the  Machias  and  Penobscot  Rivers. 

"  One  of  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  the  western  Sclioodic  region  is  Grand 
Lake.  This  noble  slieet  of  water  is  broken  here  and  there  by  islets,  and  surrounded, 
even  to  the  water's  edge,  witli  forests  of  pine  and  hard  wood,  whilst  its  bottom  is 
covered  with  granitic  bowlders,  which,  in  combination  with  drift,  are  spread  far  and 
wide  among  the  arboreal  vegetation  around." 

"  While  tlic  fog  ia  lifting  from  Schoodic  Lake, 
And  the  wliite  trout  are  leaping  for  flies, 
It  '8  j'xciting  sport  those  beauties  to  take, 
Jogging  the  nerves  and  feasting  the  eyes." 

Genio  C.  Scott. 

6.   St  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Honlton. 

By  the  New  Brunswick  &  Canada  Railway.  Fare  from  St.  Stephen  to  Wood- 
stock,  S 2.90. 

Distances.  —  St.  Andrews  to  Chamcook,  5  M. ;  Bartlett's.  11;  Waweig,  13; 
Roix  Road,  15;  Hewitt's,  19  ;  Rolling  Dam,  20;  Dumbarton,  24;  Watt  Junction, 
27  (St.  Stephen  to  W'att  Junction,  19) ;  Lawrence,  29  ;  Barber  Dam,  34  ;  McAdani 
Junction,  43 ;  Deer  Lake,  59  ;  Canterbury,  G5  ;  Eel  River,  75 ;  Wickham,  80  ;  Debeo 
Junction,  90  (Iloulton,  98);  Ilodgdon,  98;  Woodstock,  101. 

The  country  traversed  by  this  line  is  one  of  the  most  irredeemably  des- 
olate regions  in  North  America.  The  view  from  the  car-windows  pre- 
sents a  continual  succession  of  dead  and  dying  forests,  clearings  bristling 
with  stumps,  and  funereal  clusters  of  blasted  and  fire-scorched  tree-trunks. 
The  traces  of  human  habitation,  which  at  wide  intervals  are  seen  in  this 
gloomy  land,  are  cabins  of  logs,  where  poverty  and  toil  seem  the  fittest 
occupants;  and  Nature  has  withheld  the  hills  and  lakes  with  which  she 
rudely  adorns  other  wildernesses.  The  sanguine  Dr.  Gesner  wrote  a  vol- 
ume inviting  immigration  to  New  Brunswick,  and  describing  its  domains 
in  language  which  reaches  the  outer  verge  of  complaisant  optimism ;  but 
in  presence  of  the  lands  between  the  upper  St.  John  and  St.  Stephen  his 
pen  lost  its  hyperbolical  fervor.  Hesaj's:  "  Excepting  the  intervales  of 
the  stream,  it  is  necessary  to  speak  with  circumspection  in  regard  to  the 
general  quality  of  the  lands.  Many  tracts  are  fit  for  little  else  but  pas- 
turage." This  district  is  occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  the  remains  of 
Boft-wood  forests,  whose  soils  are  always  inferior  to  those  of  the  hard- 
wood districts. 

For  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Andrews  the  railway  lies  near  the 
shores  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  affording  pleasant  views  to  the  r.  Then 
the  great  mass  of  Chamcook  Mt.  is  passed,  with  its  abrupt  sides  and 
rounded  summit.  Waweig  is  between  Bonaparte  Lake  and  Oak  Bay 
(see  page  34).    About  7  M.  beyond,  the  line  approaches  the  Digdeguash 


ST.   JOHN  TO  BANGOR. 


Route  7.       37 


r%o  village 
two  hours' 
t-sea,  with 
The  cry  of 
t  along  llie 
loro  remote 
3  navigable 

»ion  is  Grand 

surrouudcd, 

its  bottom  is 

prcad  far  and 


;0TT. 

Houlton. 

icn  to  Wood- 

Wawcig,  13; 
itt  Junction, 
34 ;  McAdam 
m,  80 ;  Dt'lec 

emably  des- 
indows  prc- 
igs  bristling 
tree-trunks, 
seen  in  this 
1  the  fittest 
1  which  she 
wrote  a  vol- 
its  domains 
imism ;  but 
Stephen  his 
ntervales  of 
egard  to  the 
se  but  pas- 
remains  of 
if  the  hard- 

es  near  the 
le  r.  Then 
)t  sides  and 
d  Oak  Bay 
Digdeguash 


• 


River,  which  it  follows  to  its  source.  At  Watt  Junction  the  St.  Stephen 
Branch  Railway  comes  in  on  the  1.,  and  the  train  passes  on  to  McAdam 
Junction,  where  it  intersects  the  Kuropoan  &  North  American  Railway 
(page  38).  There  is  a  restaurant  at  this  station,  »nd  the  passenger  will 
have  time  to  dine  \\!iilo  the  train  is  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  the  trains 
from  Bangor  and  from  St.  John. 

The  forest  is  again  cntored,  and  the  train  passes  on  for  IG  M.  until  it 
reaches  the  lumber-station  at  Deer  Lake.  The  next  station  is  Canter- 
bury (small  inn),  the  centre  of  extensive  operations  in  lumber.  Running 
N.  W.  for  10  M.,  the  Kel  River  is  crossed  near  Rankin's  Mills,  and  at 
Dehec  Junction  the  passenger  changes  for  Woodstock. 

A  train  runs  tlience  8  M.  N.  W.  to  Houlton  ( -SneW  House,  Buzzdl  Ilotise), 
the  shire-town  of  Aroostook  County,  in  the  State  of  Maine  (see  Osgood's 
New  Knfjland,  Route  50).  The  other  train  runs  N.  K.  down  the  valley  of 
the  South  Brook,  and  in  about  C  M.  emerges  on  the  highlands  above  the 
valley  of  tlio  St.  John  River.  For  the  ensuing  5  M.  there  are  beautiful 
views  of  the  river  and  its  cultivated  intervales,  presenting  a  wonderful 
contrast  to  the  dreary  region  behind.  The  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus 
at  the  pretty  village  of  Woodstock  (see  Route  11). 

7.    St  John  to  Bangor. 

By  tho  European  &  North  American  Railway,  in  10-12  lionrs. 

Distances. —  St.  .Tolin ;  Carleton,  ^  M. ;  Fairville,  4;  South  Bay,  7;  Grand 
Bay,  12;  Westfield,  16;  Nei-opi.^,  20 ;  Welsford,  26;  Clarendon,  30;  Gnf^creaux, 
33  ;  Enniskillen,  3ii ;  Iloyt,  39  ;  Ulissvillo,  42  ;  Fredericton  .lunrtion,  4^>;  Tracj, 
40;  Cork,  61;  Harvey,  06;  Ma^aguadavic ,  76;  McAdam  Junction,  85;  St.  Croix, 
91;  Vaiiceboro',  92;  Jack.son  Brook,  112;  Danforth,  117;  Bancroft,  126;  King- 
man, 139;  Mattawamkeag.  147;  Winn,  150;  Lincoln  Centre,  159;  Lincoln,  161; 
Enfield,  170;  Paasadumkeiig,  175;  Olamon,  179;  Greonbush,  182;  Costigan,  187; 
Milford,  192;  Oldtown,  193 ;  Gnit  Works,  194  ;  Web.stcr,  196;  Orono,  197;  Basin 
Mills,  198;  Veajiie,  201;  Bangor,  205.  (Newport,  2^3;  Waterville,  2()0 ;  Augusta, 
281;  Brunswick,  215;  Portland,  343;  Portsmouth,  395;  Ncwburyport,  415;  Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The  traveller  crosses  the  Princess  St.  ferry  from  St.  John  to  Carleton, 
and  takes  the  train  at  the  terminal  station,  near  the  landing.  The  line 
ascends  through  the  disordered  suburb  of  Carleton,  giving  from  its  higher 
grades  l)road  and  pleasing  views  over  the  city,  the  harbor,  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.  It  soon  reaches  Fairrille,  a  growing  town  near  the  Provincial 
Lunatic  Asylum  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  There  are  numerous  lumber- 
mills  here,  in  the  coves  of  the  river.  The  train  sweeps  around  the  South 
Bay  on  a  high  grade,  and  soon  reaches  the  Grand  Bay  of  the  St.  John 
River,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  deep  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis  Bay, 
with  its  environment  of  dark  hills.  The  shores  of  the  Long  Reach  are  fol- 
lowed for  several  miles,  with  beautiful  views  on  the  r.  over  the  placid 
river  and  its  vessels  and  villages  (see  also  page  41).  To  the  W.  is  a 
sparsely  settled  and  rugged  region  in  whicn  are  many  lakes,  —  Loch 
Alva,  the  Robin  Hood,  Sherwood,  and  the  Queen's  Lakes. 


38      Route?.         CIIIPUTNETICOOK  LAKES. 


.'  I 


The  line  leaves  the  Long  Reach,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  tlio  valley 
of  the  Ncrepis  Hlvcr,  which  is  followotl  ns  far  as  the  hamlet  of  Wvhfurd 
(small  inn).  The  country  now  prows  very  tamo  and  uninteresting,  as  the 
Douplas  Valley  is  ascended.  Clarendon  is  7  M.  from  the  Chuvndon  Set- 
tlement, with  its  new  homes  wrested  from  the  savage  forest.  I-'rom  Gas- 
pereaux  a  wagon  convoys  passengers  to  the  Smith  Oromccto  Lake,  10-12 
M.  S.  W.,  among  the  highlands,  a  secluded  sheet  of  water  about  5  M.  long, 
aboiuiding  in  trout.  Beyond  the  lumber  station  of  Knnlskillen,  the  train 
passes  the  prosperous  village  of  lUissville;  nn(\  at  Freilencton  Junction  a 
connection  is  ma^lo  for  Frcdericton,  about  20  M.  N. 

Tracy's  Mills  is  the  next  stopping-place,  and  is  a  cluster  of  lumber-mills 
on  the  Oroniocto  River,  which  traverses  the  village.  On  either  side  aro 
wide  tracts  of  unpopidated  v>ilderness;  and  after  crossing  the  parish  of 
New  Maryland,  the  line  enters  Manners  Sutton,  passes  the  Cork  Settle- 
ment, and  stops  at  the  ITmny  Sc'ffeiiitii!,  a  rugged  district  occupied  by 
families  from  the  borders  of  Eiigiand  and  Scotland.  To  the  N.  and  N.  W. 
aro  the  Bear  and  '^vanbcrry  Lakes,  aflin-diiig  ;r,')oA  fishing.  A  road  leads 
S.  7-  8  V.  from  Harvey  to  t:\e  tiomocto  Lake,  a  fine  .-.hcet  of  Avatcr 
nearly  10  ]\I.  long  and  3-4  M.  wide,  whcic  many  large  trout  are  found. 
The  neighboring  forcst«  conta";i  variuus  i.Inds  of  game.  Near  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  the  lake  is  iiio  small  hamlet  of  Tweedside.  The  Bald  Mountain, 
"near  the  Harvey  Settlement,  is  a  great  mass  of  porphyry,  with  a  lake 
(probably  in  the  crater)  near  the  summit.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  coal 
measures,  where  they  touch  the  slate." 

Magaguadavic  station  is  at  the  foot  of  Magaguadavic  Lake,  which  is 
about  8  RL  long,  and  is  visited  by  sportsmen.  On  its  E.  shore  is  the  low 
and  bristling  Magaguadavic  Ridge ;  and  a  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lies  to 
the  N. 

The  train  now  runs  S.  W.  to  McAdam  Junotion  (restaurant  in  the  sta- 
tion), where  it  intersects  the  New  Brunswick  and  Ca?  .tfla  P  liiway  (see 
Route  6).  6  M.  beyond  McAdam,  through  a  monotonous  wilderness,  is 
St.  Croix,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  After  crossing  the  river  the 
train  enters  the  United  States,  and  is  visited  b"  the  customs-officers  at 
Vanceboro'  ( Chijmfneticook  House).  This  is  the  station  whence  the  beau- 
tiful lakes  of  the  upper  Schoodic  may  bo  visited. 

Tlie  Clilputnetlcook  liakes  are  about  45  M.  in  length,  in  a  N.  W.  course, 
and  are  from  >^  to  10  M.  in  width.  Their  navigation  is  very  intricate,  by  reason  of 
the  multitude  of  islets  and  islands,  narrow  passages,  covesj  i.nd  deep  inlets,  which 
diversity  of  land  and  water  affords  beautiful  combinations  o"  scenery.  The  islands 
are  covered  with  cedar,  hemloclt,  and  birch  trees;  at;d  the  ;  olu  inghlands  which 
shadow  the  lakes  are  also  well  wooded.  One  of  the  mc  it  remarkable  features  of  the 
scenery  is  the  abundance  of  bowlders  and  ledges  of  fine  white  granite,  either  seen 
through  the  transparent  waters  or  lining  the  shore  like  massive  masonry.  "Uni- 
versal gloom  and  stillness  reign  over  these  lakes  and  thi-  forests  around  them." 

Beyond  Vanceboro'  the  train  passes  through  an  Jilmost  unbroken  wilder- 
ness for  65  M.,  during  the  last  16  M.  following  the  course  of  the  Matta- 


I 


ST.  JOHN  RIVER. 


Itoiite  8.      39 


tlio  valley 

iiip,  as  tho 
ndon  Set- 
I'Voiii  Gils- 
Ac,  10-12 
5  M.  long, 
,  the  tniln 
Junction  a 

mbcr-mills 

r  slclo  nro 

parish  of 

:irk  Settlo- 

cupiccl  by 

and  N.  W. 

road  leads 

t  of  wiitcr 

arc  fouinl. 

the  N.  W. 

Mountain, 

•ith  a  lalio 

)f  tlie  coal 

f,  which  is 

is  the  low 

kes  lies  to 

in  the  sta- 
:ii\vay  (see 
derness,  is 
)  river  tho 
■officers  at 
!  the  beau- 


TV.  course, 
jy  reason  of 
ilcts,  which 
The  islnndi) 
iinds  which 
tures  of  tho 
either  seen 
ry.  "Uni- 
liem." 

en  wilder- 
ihe  Matta- 


wi 


wamkcng  River.    The  station  of  Mattmcnmkeng  is  at  tho  confluenco  of 

tho  Mattawamkeag  and  Penobscot  Rivers;  and  tho  railway  from  thenco 

follows  tho  course  of  tho  latter  stream,  travorsinj;  a  succession  of  thinly 

populated  lumbering  towns.    45  M.  below  Mattawamkeag,  the  Penobscot 

is  crossed,  and  tho  train  roaches  Oldtown  (two  inns),  a  place  of  about 

4,000  iidiabitants,  largely  engaged  in  tho  lumber  business.    Tho  traveller 

should  notice  hero  tho  immense  and  costly  booms  and  mills,  ono  of  which 

is  tho  largest  in  tho  world  and  has  100  saws  at  work  cutting  out  planks. 

On  an  Island  just  above  Oldtown  is  the  home  of  the  Tarratlno  Indians,  formerly 
the  most  powerful  and  warlike  of  the  Nortlierrt  tribes.  They  were  at  first  wcll-dls- 
posf'l  towiinlrt  tlie  colonists,  but  after  a  series  of  wrongs  and  insults  they  took  up 
arms  in  liJTS,  and  intlictcd  such  terrible  damage  on  the  settlements  that  Maine  be- 
came tril>utary  to  tliem  by  tlie  Peace  of  Casco,  After  destroying  tho  fortress  of  Pcm- 
aquid  to  avenge  an  insult  to  their  chief,  St.  Castin,  they  remained  quiet  for  many 
years.  Tho  treaty  of  17'20  contains  the  substance  of  their  prcscut  relations  with  tho 
State.  Tho  declension  of  the  tribe  was  marked  for  two  centuries;  but  ft  is  now 
slowly  increasing.  Tlie  people  own  tho  Islands  in  the  Penobscot,  and  have  a  reve- 
nue of  .S  6  -  7,000  from  the  State,  which  tlic  men  eke  out  by  working  on  the  lumber- 
rafts,  and  by  hunting  antl  fishing,  while  the  women  make  baskets  and  other  trifles 
for  sale.  The  island-village  is  without  streets,  and  con-sists  of  many  small  houses 
built  around  a  Catholic  church.  There  aro  over  400  persons  here,  most  of  whom 
are  hall-breeds. 

Below  Oldtown  tho  river  is  seen  to  bo  filled  with  booms  and  rafts  of 
timber,  and  lined  with  saw-inills.  At  Orono  is  the  State  Agricultural 
College;  and  soon  after  passing  Vcazio  tho  train  enters  the  city  of 
Bangor. 

For  descriptions  of  Bangor,  the  Penobscot  River,  and  tho  route  to  Bos- 
ton, sec  Osgood's  New  Em/lnnd. 

8.   St.  John  to  Fredericton.— The  St.  John  River. 

The  steamer  Rothesay,  of  tho  Express  Lino,  leaves  St.  John  (Tndiantown)  at  9 
A.  M  on  Monday,  U'cdnesday,  and  Friday.  Tiio  steamer  David  Weston,  of  the 
Union  Line,  leaves  Indiantown  at  9  A.  M.  on  Tue.sday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday. 
See  also  Routes  9  and  10.  Tliese  vessels  are  comfortably  fitted  up  for  passengers, 
in  tho  manner  of  the  smaller  boats  on  tlie  Hudson  River.  Dinner  is  served  on 
board  ;  and  Fredericton  is  usually  reached  late  in  tho  afternoon. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  .lohn  lliver  is  pretty,  and  has  a  pleading  pastoral  quiet- 
ness. Tho  elements  of  the  landscapes  are  simple ;  the  settlements  are  few  and 
small,  and  at  no  time  will  tho  traveller  find  his  attention  violently  drawn  to  any 
passing  object.  There  are  beautiful  views  on  the  Long  Reach,  at  Belleisle  Bay, 
and  during  the  approach  to  Fredericton,  but  the  prevalent  character  of  the 
scenery  is  that  of  quiet  and  restful  rural  lands,  by  which  it  is  pleasant  to  drift  on 
a  balmy  summer-day.  Certain  provincial  writers  have  done  a  mischief  to  the  St. 
John  by  bestowing  upon  it  too  extravagant  prai.«e,  thereby  preparing  a  disappoint- 
ment for  such  as  believed  their  report.  One  calls  it  "  tho  Rhine  of  America,"  and 
another  prefers  it  to  the  Hudson.  This  is  wide  exaggeration  ;  but  if  the  traveller 
would  enjoy  a  tranquillizing  and  luxurious  journey  through  a  pretty  fanning  coun- 
try, abounding  iu  mild  diversity  of  scenery,  he  should  devote  a  day  to  this  river. 

Distances.  — (The  steamboat-landings  bear  the  names  of  their  owners,  and  the 
following  itinerary  bears  reference  nither  to  the  villages  on  the  shores  than  to  tho 
stopping-places  of  the  boats.)  St.  John;  Brundage's  Point,  10  M.  ;  Westfield,  17  ; 
Greenwich  HiU,  19;  Oak  Point,  25;  Long  Reach,  26;  Tennant's  Cove  (Belleisle 
Bay),  29;  Wickham,  32;  Ilampstead,  36;  Otnabog,  41;  Gagetown,  50;  Upper' 
Gagetown,  58  ;  Maugerville,  72  ;  Oromocto,  75  ;  Olasier's,  81 ;  Fredericton,  86. 

Fares.  —  St.  John  to  Gagetown,  $  1 ;  to  Fredericton,  $  1.50. 


40      Jioute  8. 


KENNEBECASIS  BAY. 


I 


This  river  was  called  Looshtook  (Long  River)  by  the.Etchemin  Indi-ins,  and 
Ouangoiidie  by  the  Micniucs.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  vi^uod  by  De  Monts, 
or  other  explorers  at  an  early  day,  and  in  tlie  comniistiion  of  the  year  1598  to  the 
Lieut.-General  of  Acadia  it  is  called  La  Riviere  tk  la  Grande  Bale.  But  no  exam- 
ination  was  made  of  the  upper  waters  until  St.  John's  Day,  1604,  when  the  French 
fleet  under  De  Mouts  and  Poutrincourt  entered  tlie  great  river.  In  honor  of  the 
saint  on  whose  festival  the  exploration  was  begun,  it  was  then  entitled  the  St.  John. 
After  spending  several  weeks  in  a-xcendintc  the  stream  and  its  connected  waters,  the 
discoverers  sailed  away  to  tlie  .south,  bearing  a  good  report  of  the  chief  river  of 
Acadia.  De  Monts  expected  to  find  by  tliis  course  a  near  route  to  Tadousac,  on  tlio 
Saguenay,  and  therefore  sailed  up  as  far  as  the  depth  of  water  would  permit.  "  Tlio 
extent  of  this  river,  the  fish  with  which  it  was  filled,  the  grapes  growing  on  its 
banks,  and  the  beauty  of  its  gcenery,  were  all  objects  of  wonder  and  admiration." 
At  a  subsequent  day  the  fierce  struggles  of  the  French  seigneurs  were  waged  on  its 
shores,  and  the  invading  fleets  of  New  England  furrowed  its  tn.nquil  waters. 

The  St.  John  is  the  chief  river  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and  is  over  450  M. 
In  length,  being  navigable  for  steamers  of  ],0()U  tons  for  9(1  M.,  for  light-draught 
bteamers  270  M.  (with  a  break  at  tlie  Grand  Falls),  and  for  canoes  for  nearly  its 
entire  extent.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  great  Maine  forest,  near  tliff  sources  of  the 
Penooscot  and  the  Chaudiire ;  and  from  the  lake  which  heads  its  S.  W.  Branch 
the  Indian  voyageurs  carry  their  canoes  across  tlie  ^Icjarmette  Portige  and  launch 
them  in  the  Chaudicre,  on  which  they  descend  to  Quebec.  Flowing  to  the  N.  E. 
for  over  150  M.  through  the  JIaine  forest,  it  receives  the  Allagash,  St.  Francis,  and 
other  large  streams  ;  and  from  the  mouth  of  tlie  St.  Francis  nearly  to  the  Grand 
Falls,  a  distance  of  75  M.,  it  forms  the  frontier  between  the  United  States  and 
Canada.  It  is  the  chief  member  in  that  great  system  of  rivers  and  lakes  which  has 
won  for  New  Brunswick  the  distinction  of  being  "  the  most  finely  watered  country 
vi  the  world."  At  Madawaska  the  course  changes  from  N.  E  to  S.  E.,  and  the 
sparsely  settled  N.  W.  counties  of  the  Province  are  traver.«ed,  with  large  tributaries 
coming  in  on  either  side.  During  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  it  receives  the  watery 
of  the  great  basins  of  the  Grand  and  ^^'aslla(l^•moak  Lakes  and  the  Belleisle  and 
Kennebecasis  Bays,  which  have  a  parallel  direction  to  the  N.  E.,and  afford  good 
facilities  for  inland  navigation.  The  tributary  streams  are  connected  with  those  of 
the  Gulf  and  of  the  Bay  of  Ohalcur  by  short  portages  (which  will  be  mentioned  in 
connection  with  their  points  of  departure). 

Immediately  after  leaving  the  clock  at  St.  John  a  fine  retrospect  is 
given  of  the  dark  chasm  below,  over  wb.icli  is  the  light  and  graceful 
suspension-bridge.  Running  up  by  Point  Pleasant,  the  boat  ascends  a 
narrow  gorge  with  high  and  abrupt  banks,  at  whose  bases  are  largo 
lui'iber-mills.  On  the  r.  is  Boar''s  Head,  a  picturesque  rocky  promon- 
tor\',  in  whose  sides  are  quarries  of  limestone;  o-4  M.  above  Indiantown 
the  broad  expanse  of  Grand  Bay  is  entered,  r.nd  South  Bay  is  seen  open 
ing  on  the  1,  rear. 

The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  now  scci,  opening  to  the  N.  E.  This  noble 
sheet  of  water  is  from  1  to  4  M.  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  large  vessels 
for  over  20  ]\I.  It  receives  tiie  Kennebecasis  and  Hammond  Rivers,  and 
contains  several  islands,  the  chief  of  which,  Lonff  Island,  is  5  M.  long, 
and  is  opposite  the  village  of  Rothesay  (see  page  22).  The  E.  shore  is  fol- 
lowed for  many  miles  by  the  track  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

The  testimony  of  the  rocks  causes  scientists  to  believe  that  the  St.  John  formerly 
emptied  by  two  mouths,  —  through  the  Kennebecasis  and  the  Marsh  Valley,  and 
tbrougli  South  Bay  into  Manawagonish  Bay,  —  and  that  the  breaking  down  of  the 
present  channel  through  the  lofty  hills  AV.  of  St.  John  is  an  event  quite  recent  in 
geological  history.  The  Indians  still  preserve  a  tradition  that  this  barrier  of  hills 
■was  onco  unbroken  and  served  to  divert  the  stream. 


f    1 

it  :       I 

■vi  1   i 


M 


LONG  REACH. 


Rente  S.       41 


r 


On  the  banks  of  the  placid  Rennebccasis  the  ancient  Micmac  legends  locate  the 
home  of  the  Great  Heaver,  "feared  by  beasts  and  men,"  whom  Glooscap  finally 
conquered  and  pu'  to  death.  Ir;  this  vicinity  dwelt  the  two  Great  Brothers,  Gloos- 
CAP  and  M.VLSUNSis,  of  unknv>\^n  origin  and  invincible  power.  Glooscap  knew  that 
his  brother  was  vulnerable  only  by  the  touch  of  a  fern-root ;  and  he  had  toM  Mal- 
5tinsis  (falsely)  that  the  stroke  of  an  owl's  feather  would  kill  him.  It  came  to  pass 
tliat  Malsu'isis  determined  to  kill  his  brother  (whether  tempted  thus  by  Mik-o,  tho 
Squirrel,  or  by  Quah-beet-e-sis,  the  son  of  the  Great  Beaver,  or  by  his  own  evil  am- 
bition) ;  wherefore  with  his  arrow  ho  shot  Koo-koo-skoos,  the  Owl,  and  with  one  of 
his  feathers  struck  the  sleeping  Glooscap.  Then  he  awoke,  and  reproached  Malsun- 
sis,  but  afterwards  told  him  that  a  blow  from  the  root  of  a  pine  would  kill  him. 
Then  tho  traitorous  man  led  his  brother  on  a  hunting  excursion  far  into  the  forest, 
and  while  he  slept  he  smote  him  with  a  pine-root.  But  the  cautious  Glooscap  aroso 
unharn^ed,  and  drove  IMalsunsis  forth  into  the  forest ;  then  sat  down  by  the  brook- 
side  and  said  to  himself,  '*  Naught  but  a  liowering  rush  can  kill  me."  Musquash, 
the  Beaver,  hidden  among  the  sedge,  heard  these  words  and  reported  them  to  Mal- 
sunsis,  who  promised  to  do  unto  him  even  as  he  should  ask.  Therefore  did  Mus- 
quash say,  "  Give  unto  me  wings  like  a  pigeon."  But  the  warrior  answered,  "  Get 
thee  hence,  thou  wi*.h  a  tail  like  a  file  ;  what  need  hast  thou  of  pigeon's  wings  ?" 
and  wont  on  his  way.  Then  tlie  Beaver  was  angry,  and  went  forth  unto  the  camp 
of  Glooscap,  to  whom  i^c  told  .vhat  he  had  done.  A.  d  by  rea.son  of  these  tidings, 
Glooscap  arosi^  and  took  u,  root  of  fern  and  sought  Malsunsis  in  the  wid-^and  gloomy 
forest ;  and  when  he  had  found  him  he  smote  him  so  that  he  fell  down  dead.  "  And 
Glooscap  sang  a  song  over  him  and  lamented." 

Now,  thercfcro,  Glooscap  ruled  all  beasts  and  men.  And  there  came  unto  him 
thrre  brothers  seeking  that  he  would  give  them  great  strength  and  long  life  and 
much  stature.  Then  asked  he  of  them  whether  they  wished  these  things  that  they 
might  l)enefit  arid  counsel  men  and  be  glorious  in  battle.  But  they  said,  "  No;  we 
seek  not  the  good  of  men,  nor  care  we  for  others."  Then  he  offered  unto  them  suc- 
ciss  in  battle,  knowledge  and  skill  in  diseases,  or  wisdom  and  subtlety  in  counsel. 
But  they  would  not  hearken  unto  him.  Therefore  did  Gloo.scap  wax  angry,  and 
said :  "  Go  your  ways  :  you  shall  have  strength  and  stature  and  length  of  days." 
And  while  they  were  yet  in  the  way,  rejoicing,  "lo  I  their  feet  became  rooted  to  tho 
ground,  and  their  legs  stuck  together,  and  their  necks  shot  up,  and  they  were 
turned  into  throe  cedar-treos,  strong  and  tall,  and  enduring  beyond  thedaysof  men, 
but  destitute  alike  of  all  glory  and  of  all  use." 


I 


Occasional  glimpses  of  the  railway  are  obtained  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r. 
is  the  large  island  of  Kennel)ecasis,  which  i'  separated  from  the  Kingston 
peninsula  by  the  Milkish  Channel.  Then  the  shores  of  Land's  End  arc 
passed  on  the  r. ;  and  on  tlic  1.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Nerepis  River.  At 
this  point  the  low  (but  rocky  and  alpine)  ridge  of  the  Nerepis  Hills  crosses 
tho  river,  running  N.  E.  to  Bull  Moose  Hill,  near  the  head  of  Bellcislo 
Bay. 

The  steamer  now  changes  her  course  from  N.  W.  to  X.  E.,  and  enters  the 
Long  Beach,  a  broad  and  straight  expanse  of  the  river,  16  M.  long  and 
1-3  M.  wide.  The  shores  are  higii  and  bold,  and  the  scenery  lias  a  lake- 
like character.  Beyond  the  hamlets  of  Westfield  and  Greenwicli  Hill,  on 
the  1.  bank,  is  the  rugged  and  forest-covered  ridge  known  as  the  Devil's 
Back,  an  off-spur  of  the  minor  Alleghany  chain  over  the  Xercpis  Valley. 
Abreast  of  the  wooded  Foster's  Island,  on  the  E.  shore,  is  a  small  ham- 
let clustered  about  a  tall-spired  church.  Caton's  Island  is  just  above  Fos- 
ter's, and  in  on  the  W.  shore  is  seen  the  pretty  little  village  of  Oak  Point 
(Lacey's  inn),  with  a  lighthouse  and  the  s}»ire  of  the  Episcopal  church  of 
St.  Paul.    Farther  up  is  tho  insulated  intervale  of  Grassy  Island,  famous 


42      Jioute  S. 


BELLEISLE  BAY. 


!>  I!  ! 


for  its  rich  hay,  which  may  be  seen  in  autumn  stacked  all  nlonj;  the  shore. 
The  stenmer  now  pussies  through  tiie  contracted  channel  ofT  Mistaken 
Point,  where  the  river  is  nearly  closed  by  two  narrow  peninsulas  which 
project  towards  each  other  from  the  opposite  shores. 

BelleiMlo  Bay  turns  to  the  N.  E.  just  above  Mistaken  Point.  The  estunrj-  is 
nearly  luilden  by  ii  low  islauil  and  by  a  rounded  promontory  on  thor.,  beyond  which 
the  buy  extends  to  the  N.  E.  for  12-  14  AI.,  with  a  uniform  width  of  1  M.  It  is  navi- 
Ruble  for  the  hirj^est  vessels,  and  is  bordered  by  wooded  hills.  On  the  S.  shore  near 
tiie  mouth  is  Kin^^ston  Creek,  whieh  leads  S.  in  about  5  M.  to  KlngHtoii  (two 
inns),  a  sequestered  village  of  200  inhabiUints,  romautieally  situated  among  the  hills 
in  the  centre  of  the  iK'ninsular  parish  of  Kingston.  This  peninsula  pi-escrves  an 
almost  uniform  width  of  5-0  M.  for  30  M. ,  between  the  Kunnebecasis  Bay  and  river 
ontheS.  K.  and  the  Long  Ueach  and  Belleisle  Bay  on  tlie  N.  W.  Tlio  scenery, 
though  never  on  a  grand  scale,  is  pleasant  and  bold,  and  has  many  fine  water  viewa. 
A  few  miles  E.  of  Kingston  is  the  remarkable  lakelet  called  tlio  Pickivaakeft ,  occu- 
pying an  extinct  cmter  ami  surrounded  by  volcanic  roclts.  This  district  was  ori>:i- 
nally  settled  by  American  Loyalists,  and  for  many  years  Kingston  was  the  cajiital  of 
Kings  County.     The  village  is  most  easily  i-eaclied  from  Rotlicsay  (see  page  22). 

Teiinant's  Cove  is  a  small  Baptist  village  ot  the  N.  of  the  entrance  to  tlie  bay; 
whence  a  road  leads  in  5  M.  to  the  liamlet  of  Belleisle  Bay  on  the  N.  sliore  (nearly 
opposite  Long  Point  village) ;  from  whicli  the  bay  road  runs  in  3-4  M.  to  tlie  larger 
Baptist  settlement  at  Spragg's  Point,  whence  much  cord-wood  is  sent  to  St.  .lolin. 
4  M.  beyond  is  Sprintijidd  (small  inn),  the  largest  of  the  Belleisle  villages,  situated 
near  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  7  M.  from  Norton,  ou  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
(Route  16). 

At  the  head  of  the  Lnnp;  Reach  a  granite  ridgo  turns  the  river  to  the  N. 
and  X.  W.  and  narrows  it  for  several  miles.  4-5  M.  above  Belleisle  Ray 
Spoon  Islaiid  is  passed,  above  which,  on  the  r.  bank,  is  the  shipbuildin<T 
hamlet  of  Wkkham.  A  short  distance  beyond,  on  the  W.  bank,  is  Ilamp- 
stenil,  with  several  mills  and  a  granite-quarry.  The  shores  of  the  river 
now  become  more  low  and  level,  and  the  fertile  meadows  of  Lonr/  Island 
are  coasted  for  nearly  5  M.  This  pretty  island  is  dotted  with  elm-trcos, 
and  contains  two  large  ponds.  On  the  mainland  ( W.  shore),  near  its  head, 
is  the  hamlet  of  Otnaboij,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  which  empties  into  a  lake 
3  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  connected  with  the  St.  John  by  a  narrow 
passage.  The  boat  next  passes  the  Lower  Musquash  Island,  containing  a 
large  pond,  and  hiding  the  outlet  of  the  Washademoak  Lake  (see  Route  U). 

"  This  part  of  the  Province,  including  the  lands  around  thedrand  l«ike  and  along 
the  Washademoak,  must  l)ec()me  a  very  jiopulousand  rich  country.  A  great  propor- 
tion of  the  land  is  intervale  or  alluvial,  and  coal  is  found  in  great  plenty,  near  the 

(iranil  Lake No  part  of  America  can  exhibit  greater  beauty  or  more  luxuriant 

fertility  than  the  lands  on  each  side,  and  the  islands  that  we  pass  in  this  distance." 
(McUukijOR's  British  America.) 

After  passing  the  Upjier  Musquash  Island,  the  steamboat  rounds  in  at 
Gatjttou'n  (2  iims),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants,  prettily  situated  on  the  \V. 
bank  of  the  rivor.  It  is  the  shire-town  of  Queen's  County,  and  is  the  shipping- 
point  for  a  broad  tract  of  farming-country.  After  leaving  this  point,  the 
steamer  passes  between  (Iriniross  Neck  (I.)  and  the  level  shores  of  Cam- 
bridge (r.),  and  runs  by  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  River. 

About  the  year  lti40  the  French  seigneur  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  a 
fort,  on  whoso  ramparts  were  12  iron  guna  and  G  "  murtherers."    It  was  provided 


MAUGERVILLE. 


Rout"  8.       43 


the  shore. 

Jlistakon 

lias  which 


estuary  is 
yoiul  which 
It  is  iiiivi- 

shore  near 
SHtoii  (two 
iiR  the  hills 
ireservea  an 
ly  ami  river 
lie  wenery, 
iviitor  viewa. 
nkfft,  oecu- 

t  was  orifri- 
lie  ra|)ital  of 
ifie  22). 
to  tlie  bay ; 
linre  (nearly 
o  tlie  larfTcr 
to  St.  .Idhn. 
res,  Fituated 
ial  Railway 

r  to  the  N. 
lleisle  Riiy 
lipbuUtling 
;,  is  Ifamp- 
)f  the  river 
^onff  Island 
I  chn-trees, 
:ir  its  head, 
into  a  lake 
■  a  narrow 
jntaininp  a 
c  Route  y). 

ce  and  alonR 
rroat  projior- 
ty,  near  the 
•»'  luxuriant 
isdistanee." 

unds  in  at 
I  on  the  W. 
e  shipping- 
point,  the 
'S  of  Cam- 


10  JemsoR  a 
raa  provided 


i 


) 


with  a  court  of  Ruard,  stono  barracks  and  maKazine.'*,  a  prardcn,  and  a  chapel  "6  paces 
siiuare  with  a  bell  wei^'hin^  18  pounds."  In  lt)54  it  was  captured  by  an  expedition 
sent  out  by  Oliver  tironiwell ;  but  was  yielded  up  by  Sir  Thomas  Temple  to  tho 
gc'i"ni'ur  do  So.  lan^res  et  Marson  in  1670.  In  1674  it  was  taken  and  plundered  by 
•'  a  Flemish  corsair."'  Tiic  Seigniory  of  JenuseR  was  granted  by  the  French  Crown  to 
the  ancient  llreton  family  of  Uainour  des  Chaffour.  In  1(586  it  was  occupied  by  tho 
Pci"noriul  family,  and  in  11)98  there  wore  50  i)ersons  settled  here  under  its  auspices. 
Iirn.T.)  the  lordshii)  of  thi.s  district  was  held  by  the  Maniuis  de  Vaudreuil,  who  had 
11(5  colonists  in  the  domain  of  Jeniseg.  In  1692  it  was  aiade  the  capital  of  Acadia, 
under  the  command  of  M.  de  Villebon  ;  and  after  Vbo  removal  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment to  Fort  Nashwaak  (I'ndfricton),  the  Jemseg  fort  suffered  the  vicissitudes  of 
Uritish  attack, and  was  finally  abandoned.  About  tho  year  1776,  600  Indian  warriora 
gatliered  here,  designing  to  devastate  the  St.  John  valley,  but  were  deterred  by  tho 
resolute  front  made  by  the  colonists  from  the  Oromocto  fort,  and  were  finally  ap- 
peased and  quieted  by  largo  presents. 

Tho  Jemseg  River  is  the  outlet  of  Grand  Lake  (see  Route  10).    Beyond 

this  point  the  steamer  runs  N.  W.  by  Grimross  Island,  and  soon  passes  the 

hamlets  of  Canning  (r.)  and  Upper  Gagetown  (1.).   Above  Mauger's  Island 

is  seen  the  tall  spire  of  Burton  church,  and  tho  boat  calls  at  Sheffield,  tho 

seat  of  the  Sheffield  Acancmy. 

"  The  whole  river-front  of  tho  parishes  of  Maugerville,  Sheffield,  and  Water- 
borough,  an  extent  of  nearly  30  M.,  is  a  remarkably  fine  alluvial  soil,  exactly  re-- 
sembling  that  of  Battersca  fields  and  thcTwickenliam  meadows,  stretching  from  tho 
river  generally  about  2  M.  Tiiis  tract  of  intervale,  including  the  three  noble  islands 
opposite,  is  deservedly  called  the  Garden  of  New  Brunswick,  and  it  la  by  far  the 
most  considerable  tract  of  alluvial  soil,  formed  by  fresh  water,  in  the  Province." 

Above  Sheflield  the  steamer  passes  Middle  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long, 
and  produces  much  hay,  and  calls  at  Manrjerrillc,  a  quiet  lowland  village 
of  300  inliahitants.  On  tho  opposite  shore  is  Oromocto  (two  inns),  tho 
capital  of  Sunbury  County,  a  village  of  400  uihabitants,  engaged  in  ship- 
bviililing.  It  is  at  tho  ni  ith  of  the  Oromocto  River,  which  is  navigable 
for  22  M. 

The  settlement  of  Maugerville  was  the  first  which  was  formed  by  the  English  on 
the  St.  John  River.  It  was  established  in  1763  by  families  from  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut,  and  had  over  100  families  in  1775.  In  May,  1776,  the  inhabitants  of 
Sunbury  County  assembled  at  Maugerville,  and  resolved  that  tho  colonial  policy  of 
the  British  Parliament  wiis  wrong,  that  the  United  Provinces  were  justified  in  re- 
sisting it,  that  the  county  should  be  attached  to  Massachusetts,  and  that  men  and 
money  should  be  raised  for  the  American  service :  saying  also,  "  wo  are  Ready  with 
our  Lives  and  fortunes  to  Share  with  them  the  Event  of  the  present  Struggle  for 
Liberty,  however  Ood  in  his  Providence  may  order  it."  These  resolutions  were 
signed  by  all  but  12  of  the  people ;  and  Mass-acliusetts  soon  sent  thciu  a  quantity  of 
ammunition.  At  a  later  day  Col.  Kddy,  with  a  detachment  of  Mass.  troops,  ascended 
tho  St.  Joli.i  River  to  Maugerville,  where  he  met  with  a  warm  welcome  and  was 
joined  by  nearly  50  men. 

Oromocto  was  in  early  days  a  favorite  resort  of  tho  Indians,  one  of  whose  great 
cetneteries  has  recently  been  found  here.  When  the  hostile  tribes  concentrated  on 
tho  Jemseg  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  were  preparing  to  devastate  tho 
river-towns,  the  colonists  erected  a  large  fortification  near  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto, 
and  took  refuge  tiiere.  They  made  sucli  a  bold  front  that  tho  Indians  retired  and 
disbanded,  after  having  reconnoitred  the  works. 

"  The  rich  meadows  are  decorated  with  stat«'ly  elms  and  forest  trees,  or  sheltered 
by  low  coppices  of  cmnberry,  alder,  and  other  native  bu.-hes.  Through  the  numer- 
ous openings  in  tho  shrubbery,  the  visitor,  in  traversing  the  river,  sees  the  white 
fronts  of  the  cottages,  and  other  buildings ;  and,  from  the  constiuit  change  of  posi- 
tion, in  sailing,  an  alnnst  endless  variety  of  scenery  is  presented  to  the  traveller's 
eye.    During  the  summer  season  the  surface  of  the  water  afibrds  an  intorcsting 


44      Jtouie  S. 


FREDERICTCN. 


spectacle.  Vast  rafts  of  timber  and  logs  are  slowly  moved  downwards  by  the  cur- 
rent. On  them  is  sometiuiefl  seen  tiio  shanty  of  the  lumberman,  with  his  family,  a 
cow,  and  occasionally  a  haystack,  all  destined  for  the  city  below.  Numerous  canoes 
and  boats  are  in  motion,  while  tlie  paddles  of  tlic  steamboat  break  the  iiolishcd  sur- 
face of  the  stream  and  send  it  rippliu^c  to  the  shore.  In  the  mid.«t  of  this  land.^cnpo 
stands  Fredericton,  situated  on  an  obtuse  level  point  formed  by  the  bending  of  the 
rivei",  and  in  the  midst  of  natural  and  cultivated  scenery."    (Gesneiu) 


1 


1:  i! 


'M! 


Fredericton. 

Hotels.  Baikor  Ilouse,  Queen  St. ,  $  2  a  day ;  Queen's  Hotel,  Queen  St. ,  $ l.GO 
a  day. 

Stages  leave  iri-weekly  for  Woodstock  ( (52  M.;  fare,  $2.50);  and  tri-weekly  for 
Boiestown  and  the  Miramichi  (106  M. ;  fare,  $  G). 

Kailivaya«  The  European  &  North  American  (branch  line)  to  St.  John,  in 
about  64  M.  ;  fare,  82.  The  New  Brunswick  llailway  (narrow  gauge),  to  Woodstock 
und  Florenceville ;  fare  to  Woodstock,  S  175  (page  50). 

Steamboats.  Daily  to  St.  .John,  stopping  at  the  river-ports.  Fare,  S  1.50. 
In  the  summer  there  are  occasional  night-boats,  leaving  Fredericton  at  4  p.  m. 
When  the  river  has  enough  water,  steamboats  run  from  Fredericton,  65  -  70  M, 
N.  W.  to  Woodstock  and  Grand  Falls.  Ferry-steamers  cross  to  St.  Mary's  at  fre- 
quent intervals, 

Fredericton,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  New  BrunsAvick,  is  a  small 
city  pleasantly  .situated  on  a  level  plain  near  the  St.  John  River.  In  1871 
it  had  6,006  inhabitants,  with  4  weekly  newspapers  and  a  bank.  It  is 
probably  the  quietest  place,  of  its  size,  north  of  the  Potomac  River.  Tho 
streets  are  broad  and  airv,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  arc 
lined  with  fine  old  shade  trees.  The  city  has  no  manufacturing  interests, 
bu,  serves  as  a  shipping-point  and  depot  of  supplies  for  the  young  settle- 
ments to  the  N.  and  \V.  Its  chief  reason  for  being  is  the  presence  of  tlio 
offices  of  the  Provincial  Government,  for  which  it  was  founded. 

Queen  St.  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  nearly  parallel 
with  tlic  river.  At  its  W.  end  is  the  Government  House,  a  plain  and  spa- 
cious stone  building  situated  in  a  pleasant  park,  and  used  for  the  official 
residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  New  Brunswick.  Nearly  in  tho 
middle  of  the  city,  and  between  Queen  St.  and  the  river,  arc  the  Military 
Grounds  and  Parade-ground,  with  the  large  barracks  (accommodating 
1,000  men),  which  were  formerly  the  headquarters  of  the  British  army  in 
this  Province.  They  are  now  deserted,  and  are  falling  into  dilapidation. 
Near  the  E.  end  of  Queen  St.  arc  the  Parliament  Buildiiifjg,  a  group  of  in 
ferior  wooden  structures,  where  the  legislative  bodies  of  the  IM'ovince  hold 
their  sessions.  The  Library  is  in  the  brick  building  on  the  E.,  and  con- 
tains about  13,000  volumes.  It  is,  however,  open  only  on  Wednesdays. 
The  Council  Chamber  and  Chamber  of  Commons  are  comfortable,  but 
small  and  plain,  halls;  and  the  Law  Library  is  also  contained  in  this 
building. 

♦Christ  Church  Cathedral  is  a  short  distance  beyond  the  Parliament 
Buildings,  and  is  embowered  in  a  grove  of  fine  old  trees  near  the  river 
(corner  of  Church  and  Queen  Sts.).  It  is  under  the  direct  care  of  the 
Anglican  Bishop  of  Fredericton,  and  its  style  of  construction  is  modelled 


\ 


FREDERICTON. 


lioute  8.       45 


the  cur- 

faniily,  a 

3U8  canoes 

ishecl  sur- 

land.<capo 

ling  of  the 


St.,  S  1.50 

weekly  for 

John,  in 
^Voodstock 

TO,  S  l.&O. 
at  4  p.  M. 
65  -  70  M. 
y's  at  fre- 

is  a  small 
In  1871 
ik.  It  is 
cr.  Tho 
«,  and  are 
interests, 
ug  settle- 
ce  of  the 

y  parallel 
and  spa- 
ic  official 
ly  in  tho 
!  Military 
niodutiiif; 
army  in 
ipidation. 
up  of  in 
incc  liolJ 
and  con- 
liicsday.^. 
able,  but 
1   in  this 

irl  lament 
the  river 
re  of  tho 
modelled 


I 


after  that  of  Christ  Church  Cathedral  at  Montreal.  Tho  beauty  of  tho 
Knpjlish  Gothic  architecture,  as  here  wrought  out  in  fine  gray  stone,  is 
heightened  by  the  picturesque  clTect  of  the  surrounding  trees.  A  stone 
spire,  178  ft.  high,  rises  from  the  junction  of  the  nave  and  transepts.  The 
interior  is  beautiful,  though  small,  and  the  chancel  is  adorned  with  a 
superb  window  of  Newcastle  stained-glass,  presented  by  the  Episcopal 
Clnu-ch  in  tho  United  States.  It  represents,  in  the  centre,  Christ  cruci- 
fied, with  SS.  John,  .James,  and  Peter  on  the  1.,  and  SS.  Thomas,  Philip, 
and  Andrew  on  the  r.  In  tho  cathedral  tower  is  a  chime  of  8  bells,  each 
of  which  bears  tho  inscription  : 


"  Ave  Pater,  Rox,  Creator, 
Ave  Fill,  Lu.x,  Sulviitor, 
Ave  Spiritiis  Oonsoliitor, 
Ave  Ucata  Unitas. 


Are  Simplex,  Ave  Trine, 
Ave  Kep^nuns  in  Sublime, 
Ave  Ki'SDuot  sine  fine, 
Ave  Suncta  Trinitos." 


» 


The  Provincial  Exposition  Building  is  a  spacious  edifice  on  Westmore- 
land St.,  constructed  in  a  singular  variety  of  Saracenic  architecture,  it 
is  used  for  great  industrial  and  agricultural  fairs  every  3  or  4  years.  In 
this  vicinity  is  the  skating-rink,  and  the  railway-station  is  but  a  little  way 
beyond,  on  York  St. 

The  University  of  New  Bntnswick  is  a  substantial  freestone  building,  170 
ft.  long  and  GO  ft.  wide,  occupying  a  fine  position  on  the  hills  which  sweep 
Jiround  the  city  on  tho  S.  It  was  established  by  royal  charter  in  1828, 
while  Sir  Howard  Douglas  ruled  the  Province  ;  and  was  for  many  years 
a  source  of  great  strife  between  tho  Episcopalians  and  the  other  sects,  the 
hitter  making  objection  to  tho  absorption  by  tl.o  Anglicans  of  an  institu- 
tion which  had  been  paid  for  by  the  whole  people.  It  was  fairly  endowed, 
but  has  not  yet  reached  an  era  of  prosperity,  probably  because  there  are 
too  many  colleges  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  The  view  from  the  Univer- 
sity is  pleasant,  and  is  thus  described  by  Prof.  Johnston  : 

"  From  tho  high  ground  above  Fredericton  I  again  felt  how  very  delightful  it  is  to 
fi-a-st  the  cyca,  weary  of  Htony  barrens  and  perpetual  pines,  upon  tho  beautiful  river 
St  .lohn Oahn,  broad,  clear,  just  visibly  flowing  on  ;  full  to  its  banks,  and  re- 
flecting f.om  its  surface  the  graceful  American  elms  which  at  intervals  fringe  its 
shores,  it  has  all  the  beauty  of  a  long  lake  without  its  lifelessness.  But  its  acces- 
sories are  as  yet  chielly  those  of  nature,  —  wooded  ranges  of  hills  varied  in  outline, 
n(i\v  retiring  from  and  now  approaching  the  water's  edge,  with  an  occasional  clear- 
ing, and  a  rare  white-washed  house,  with  its  still  more  rarely  visible  inhabitants, 

and  stray  cattle In  some  respects  this  view  of  the  St.  John  recalled  to  my 

mind  some  of  the  points  on  tho  llussian  river  (Neva) :  though  among  European 
t^ccnery,  in  its  broad  waters  and  forests  of  pines,  it  most  resembled  the  tamer  por- 
tions of  the  !>ea-arm8  and  tiords  of  Swedoki  and  Norway." 

St.  Mnnfs  and  Nashicanlsis  are  opposite  Fredericton,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  St.  John,  and  are  reached  by  a  steam-ferry.  Here  is  the  terminus  of 
the  New  Brunswick  Railway  (to  Woodstock)  ;  and  here  also  are  the  great 
lumbcr-tnills  of  Mr.  Gibson,  with  the  stately  church  and  comfortable 
homes  which  he  ha«  erected  for  his  workmen.  Nearly  opposite  the  city 
is  seen  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak  River,  whose  valley  was  settled  by 
disbanded  soldiers  of  the  old  Black  Watch  (42d  Higlilanders). 


i 


i-    i 
i;   ' 

!'     I 


li 


4G      Routes. 


FREDERICTON. 


In  tho  year  1690  the  French  government  sent  out  the  ChevaHcr  de  Tillebon  as 
Governor  of  Acadia.  When  ho  arrived  at  Port  Royal  (Annapolis),  his  capital,  ho 
found  that  Sir  William  Phipps's  New-England  fleet  liad  recently  captured  and  do- 
ptroyed  its  fortifications,  po  he  ascended  the  St.  John  llivor  and  soon  fixed  his  capi- 
lal  at  Nashwaak,  where  he  remained  for  several  years,  organizing  Indian  forays  on 
the  settlements  of  Maine. 

In  October,  1(51)0,  an  AnKlo-American  army  a-scended  the  St.  John  in  the  shipg 
AniiKhl,  Province,  and  others,  and  laid  siege  to  Fort  Nashw.wk.  The  Chevalit-r  de 
Villebon  drew  up  his  garrison,  and  addressed  them  with  enthusiasm,  and  the  de- 
tachments were  put  in  charge  of  the  Sicurs  de  la  Cote,  Tibierge,  and  Clignancourt. 
'J'lie  British  royal  standard  was  displayed  over  the  besiegers'  works,  and  for  three 
days  a  heavy  fire  of  artillery  and  musketry  was  kept  up.  The  precision  of  the  firo 
from  La  Cote's  battery  dismounted  the  hostile  guns,  and  after  seeing  the  Sieur  do 
Falaise  reinforce  the  fort  from  Quebec,  the  British  gave  up  the  siege  and  retreated 
down  the  river. 

The  village  of  St.  Anne  was  erected  here,  under  the  protection  of  Fort  Nashwaak. 
Its  site  had  been  visited  by  De  Monts  in  1G(J4,  during  his  exploration  of  the  river. 
In  1757  (and  lat«'r)  the  place  was  crowded  with  Acadian  refugees  fleeing  from  tho 
stern  visitations  of  angry  New  Kngland  on  the  Minas  and  Port  lloyal  districts.  In 
1784  came  the  exiled  American  Loyalists,  who  drove  away  the  Acadians  into  tho 
wilderness  of  Madawaska,  and  settled  a!jng  these  shores.  During  the  following 
year  Gov.  Guy  Carleton  established  the  capital  of  the  Province  here,  in  view  of  the 
central  location  and  pleasant  natural  features  of  the  place.  Since  the  formation  of 
the  Canadian  Dominion,  and  tlie  consequent  withdrawal  of  the  British  garrison, 
Frederic  ton  has  become  dormar.c. 

7  M.  above  Fredericton  is  Aukpnqne,  the  favorite  home-district  of  the  ancient 
Indians  of  the  river.  The  name  signifies  "  a  beautiful  expanse  of  the  river  caused 
by  numerous  islands."  On  the  island  of  Sandous  were  the  fortifications  and  quar- 
ters of  the  American  forces  in  1777,  when  the  St.  John  River  wa.s  held  by  the  expe- 
dition of  Col.  Allan.  They  reached  Ankpaque  on  the  f>th  of  June,  and  saluted  tho 
new  American  flag  with  salvos  of  artillery,  while  the  resident  Indians,  under  Am- 
brose St.  Aubin,  their  "august  and  noble  chief,"'  welcomed  them  and  their  cause. 
They  patrolled  tho  river  with  guard-boats,  aided  the  patriot  residents  on  the  banks, 
and  watched  the  mouth  of  St.  John  harbor.  After  the  canip  on  Ankpaque  liad 
been  established  about  a  month  it  was  broken  up  by  a  British  naval  force  from 
below,  and  Col.  Allan  led  away  about  5(X)  people,  patriot  Provincials,  Indians,  and 
their  families.  This  great  exodus  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  yet  least  kaown 
incidents  of  the  American  borders.  It  was  conducted  by  canoes  up  the  St.  John  to 
the  ancient  French  trading-post  called  Fort  Meductie,  whence  they  carried  their 
boats,  families,  ami  household  goods  across  a  long  portage  ;  then  they  ascended  tho 
rapid  Eel  River  to  its  reservoir-1.  ke,  from  whose  head  another  portage  of  4  M.  led 
them  to  North  Pond.  The  long  i)roccssion  of  exiles  next  defiled  into  the  Grand 
Lake,  and  encamped  for  several  days  at  its  outlet,  after  which  they  descended  the 
i'hiputneticook  Lake  and  the  St.  Croix  River,  passed  into  the  Lower  Scliootflc  Lake, 
and  thence  carried  their  families  and  goods  to  the  head-waters  of  the  IMachias  River. 
Floating  down  that  strcnn,  tiiey  reached  Machias'  in  time  to  aid  in  beating  off  tho 
British  squadron  from  that  town. 


From  Fredericton  to  the  2Iiramidd.     Tlirough  the  Forest. 

The  Royal  Mail-stage  leaves  on  IMonday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at 
a  very  early  hour,  and  tho  passenger  gets  breakfast  at  Eastman's,  and 
sleeps  at  Frazer's.  The  trip  requires  2  days,  and  costs  $G  (exclusive  of 
hotels),  and  the  distance  from  Fredericton  to  Newcastle  is  105  M.  By  far 
the  gi-eater  part  of  the  route  leads  through  an  unbroken  forest,  and  the 
road  leaves  much  to  be  desired.    After  crossing  the  ferry  at  Fredericton 

\  Marhias  is  Bn'ul  to  be  derived  from  the  Frenrh  word  3lagfa  (mcnninp  the  Mngl),  nnd  it 
II  licld  tliat  it  wua  discovered  by  the  aucient  French  explorers  un  tlie  Festival  of  the  Magi. 


WASHADEMOAK  LAKE. 


lioute  9.      47 


Villebon  jig 
capital,  lio 
red  and  dc- 
L'd  his  capi- 
a  forays  on 

the  ships 
hevalitT  de 
ind  tlie  dc- 
ignancourt. 
id  for  tlirco 
1  of  the  firo 
he  Sicnr  do 
d  retreated 

Nashwaak. 
r  tlio  river, 
g  from  tlio 
striets.  In 
IIS  into  tlie 
e  following 
view  of  the 
)rinatiou  of 
li  garrisou, 

the  ancient 
iver  caused 
H  and  quar- 
»y  the  expc- 
Niluted  the 
under  Ani- 
their  cause. 
I  the  banks, 
opaque  had 
force  from 
ndians , and 
cast  kaowu 
St.  John  to 
irried  tlieir 
icendcd  the 
of  4  M.  led 
the  Grand 
icendcd  tlic 
loitic  Lake, 
hia-s  River, 
ing  off  the 


'rltlay,  at 
tin's,  and 
elusive  of 
.  By  far 
,  and  the 
edericton 

rnp!),  and  It 
the  Magi. 


I 


the  ronte  lies  due  N.  and  is  as  straight  as  an  arrow  for  9  M.,  when  it  roaches 
Nashwaak  Village  (small  inn);  thence  it  follows  the  Nashwaak  IJiver  for 
6  M.,  to  the  hamlpt  of  Nashrvaak,  above  which  it  enters  a  wild  country 
about  the  head-waters  o*"  the  river.  To  the  W.  are  tlio  immense  domains 
of  the  New  Brunswick  Land  Company,  on  which  a  few  struggling  settle- 
ments are  located.  In  the  earlier  days  there  was  a  much-travelled  route 
between  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  Miramichi  waters,  by  way  of  the 
Nashwaak  River,  from  whose  upper  waters  a  portage  was  made  to  the 
adjacent  streams  of  the  Miramichi  (see  "Vacation  Tourists,"  for  1862-3, 
pp.  464-474).  At  about  40  M.  from  Fredericton  the  stage  reaches  Boies- 
toicn  (small  inn),  a  lumbering-village  of  250  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  W. 
Miramichi  River.  This  place  was  founded  in  1822,  by  Thomas  Boies  and 
120  Americans,  but  has  become  decadent  since  the  partial  exhaustion  of 
the  forests.  The  road  now  follows  the  course  of  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
passing  the  hamlets  of  Ludlow,  52  M.  from  Fredericton  ;  Doaktown,  55 
M.;  Blissfield,  62;  Dunphy,  73;  Blackville,  79;  Indiantown  (Rcnous  River), 
87;  Derby,  96;  and  Newcastle,  105  (see  Route  15). 

9.  Washademoak  Lake. 

The  steamer  Star  leaves  St.  John  (Indiantown)  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Sat- 
urday, at  10  A.  M.  for  Cole's  Island  and  the  intermediate  landings.  The  distiincc  is 
about  GO  M . ;  the  fare  is  .$  1.  The  boiits  leave  Cole's  Island  on  the  return  trip  at 
7-30  A.M.,  on  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Monday. 

The  steamboat  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  to  the  upper 
end  of  Long  Island,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.  in  a  narrow  passage  be- 
tween the  Lower  Musquash  Island  and  the  shores  of  Wickham.  On  either 
side  are  wide  rich  intervales,  over  which  the  spring  inundations  spread 
fertilizing  soil;  and  the  otherwise  monotonous  landscape  is  enlivened  by 
clusters  of  elms  and  maples.  After  following  this  passage  for  1\  M.,  the 
steamer  enters  the  Washademoak  Lake,  at  this  point  nearly  2  M.  wide. 
The  Washademoak  is  not  proj  -^rly  a  lake,  but  is  the  broadening  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  naintains  a  width  of  from  ^  M.  to  2  il. 
from  Cole's  Island  to  its  mouth,  a  distance  of  25-30  M.  It  is  deep  and 
still,  and  has  but  little  current.  In  the  spring-time  and  autumn  rafts  de- 
scend the  lake  from  tlie  upper  rivers  and  from  the  head-waters  of  the 
Cocagne,  and  pass  down  to  St.  John.  The  scenery  is  rather  tame,  being 
that  of  alluvial  lowlands,  diversified  only  by  scattered  trees.  There  are 
10  small  hamlets  on  the  shores,  with  from  150  to  250  inhabitants  each, 
most  of  them  being  on  the  E.  shore.  The  people  are  engaged  in  farming 
and  in  freighting  cord-wood  to  St.  John.  About  6  M.  above  IMcDonald's 
Point,  Lewis  Cove  opens  to  the  S.  l].,  running  down  for  about  3  M.  into  the 
parish  of  Wickham ;  and  4-5  M.  f\irtlier  on  are  the  Narroics,  Avhere  the 
lake  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  a  bold  bluft'  projecting  from  the  E.  shore. 
Colt's  Island  has  about  200  inhabitants,  and  a  small  hotel.    It  is  20  M. 


'  i 


^l' 


48      Route  10. 


GRAND  LAKE. 


from  Apohnqui,  on  tlie  Intercolonltil  Railway.  Roads  run  across  the  pe- 
ninsula on  the  N.  W.  to  Grand  Lake  in  5-7  M.  It  is  38  M.  from  Cole's 
Island  to  Petitcodiac,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  by  way  of  Brookvale, 
The  Forks,  and  New  Canaan.  The  Washadcmoak  region  has  no  attrac- 
tions for  the  summer  tourist. 

10.  Grand  lake. 

The  steamer  May  Queen  loaves  St.  John  (Tndiantown)  on  TVednesday  and  Satur- 
day at  8  A.  M.,  for  iinind  Lake  and  the  Salmon  l»ivcr.  The  distance  is  86  M. ;  the 
fare  is  $  1.50.  She  leaves  Salmon  River  on  Monday  and  Thursday  mornings ;  and 
touches  at  Qagetowu  in  ascending  and  descending. 

Grand  Lake  is  30  M.  long  and  from  3  to  9  M.  wide.  It  has  a  tide  of  6 
inches,  caused  by  thj  backwater  of  the  St.  John  River,  thrown  up  by  the 
high  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  shores  are  low  and  uninteresting, 
and  are  broken  by  several  deep  coves  and  estuaries.  There  are  numerous 
hamlets  on  each  sid( ,  but  they  are  all  small  and  have  an  air  of  poverty. 
It  is  reasonably  hoped,  however,  that  these  broad  alluvial  plains  will  be- 
come, in  a  few  decades,  the  home  of  a  large  and  i)rosperous  population. 

The  lands  in  this  vicinity  were  granted  at  an  early  date  to  the  Sieur  de  Frencusp, 
a  young  Parisian,  the  sou  of  that  Sieur  dc  Clignancourt  who  was  so  active  in  settling 
the  St.  John  valley  and  in  defending  it  against  the  New-Englandcrs.  On  Charle- 
voix's map  (dated  1744)  Grand  Lake  is  called  Lac  Freneusc,  and  a  village  of  the  same 
name  is  indicated  as  being  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  These  shores  were  a  favorite  camp- 
ing-ground of  the  ancient  Milicete  Indians,  whose  descendants  occasionally  visit 
Grand  Lake  in  pursuit  of  muskrats.  The  lumber  business,  always  baneful  to  the 
agricultur.xl  interests  of  a  new  country,  has  slackened  on  account  of  the  exhc  "stiou 
of  the  forests  on  the  Salmon  River  ;  and  it  is  now  thought  that  a  farming  population 
will  erelong  occupy  the  Grand  Lake  country. 

The  steamer  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  as  far  as  Gaffe- 
town,  where  it  makes  a  brief  stop  (other  landings  on  the  lower  river  are 
sometimes  visited).  She  then  crosses  to  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  (see 
page  43),  where  the  Jemseg  River  is  entered,  and  is  followed  through  its 
narrow,  tortuous,  and  pictiu'csque  course  of  4  M.  This  is  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  journey.  "When  nearly  through  the  passage  the  boat 
stops  before  the  compact  hamlet  of  Jemseg,  occupying  the  slope  of  a  hill 
on  the  r.  On  entering  the  lake,  a  broad  expanse  of  still  water  is  seen  in 
front,  with  low  and  level  shores  d'^nuded  of  trees.  On  the  1.  is  Scotch- 
town  (150  inhabitants),  near  which  is  a  channel  cut  through  the  alluvium, 
leading  (in  2  M.)  to  Maquajnl  Lake,  which  is  5  ^I.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide. 
This  channel  is  called  the  Thoroughfare ;  is  passable  by  large  boats;  and 
leads  through  groves  of  elm,  birch,  and  maple  trees.  1  M.  from  the  W. 
end  of  Maquapit  Lake  is  French  Lake,  accessible  by  another  "  Thorough- 
fare," and  3-4  M.  long,  nearly  divided  by  a  long,  low  point.  This  lake  is 
6-G  M.  from  SheftieUl,  on  the  St.  John  River. 

The  channel  is  marked  out  by  poles  rising  from  the  flats  on  either  side. 
(The  course  of  the  steamer  is  liable  to  variation,  and  is  here  described  as 
followed  by  the  Editor.)    Robinson's  Point  is  first  visited,  with  its  white 


I 


GRAND  LAKE, 


Route  11.       49 


the  pe- 

Cole's 

okvale, 

attrac- 


id  Satur- 

M. ;  the 

ngs;  and 


tide  of  6 
p  by  the 
cresting, 
umerous 
poverty. 
(  will  be- 
lation. 

Freneusp, 
in  settling 
in  Charle- 
f  the  fiauie 
rite  camp- 
nally  visit 
ful  to  the 
sxhfstion 
population 

as  Gage- 

river  are 

mseg  (see 

irough  its 

lost  inter- 

the  boat 

3  of  a  hill 

is  seen  in 

is  Scotch- 

alluvium, 

M.  •wide. 

oats;  and 

m  the  W. 

riiorough- 

his  lake  is 

ither  side, 
scribed  as 
I  its  white 


lighthouse  rising  from  the  E.  shore;  and  the  steamer  passes  around  Into 
]VIitte''s  Cove,  where  there  is  a  farming  settlement  of  200  inhabitants. 
Thence  the  lake  is  crossed  to  the  N.  to  Keyhole,  a  curious  little  harbor 
near  the  villages  of  Maquapit  and  Douglas  Harbor.  After  vi'^iting  Mill 
Cove  and  Wiggin's  Cove,  on  the  E.  shore,  and  Young's  Cove  (2  iims),  the 
boat  rounds  Cumberland  Point  and  ascends  the  deep  Cumberland  Bay,  at 
whoso  head  is  a  populous  farming  settlement.  On  the  way  out  of  the  bay 
Cox's  Point  is  visited,  and  then  the  narrowing  waters  at  the  head  of  the 
lake  are  entered.  At  Newcastle  and  other  points  in  this  vicinity,  attempts 
have  been  made  at  coal-mining.  The  conl  district  about  the  head  of  Grand 
Lake  covers  an  area  of  40  square  miles,  and  the  coal  is  said  to  be  of  good 
quality  and  in  thick  seams.  But  little  has  yet  been  done  in  the  way  of 
mining,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  transporting  the  coal  to  market. 

Soon  after  passing  Newcastle  Creek  the  steamer  ascends  the  N.  E.  arm, 
rounds  a  long,  low  point,  and  enters  the  Salmon  Biver.  This  stream  is 
ascended  for  several  miles,  through  the  depressing  influences  of  ruined 
forests  not  yet  replaced  by  farms.  Beyond  Ironbound  Cove  and  the  Coal 
Mines,  the  boat  ties  up  for  the  night  at  a  backwoods  settlement,  where  the 
traveller  must  go  ashore  and  sleep  in  a  room  reserved  for  wayfarers  in  an 
adjacent  cottage. 

Brigg^s  Corner  is  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  a  road  runs  thence  N.  E.  across 
the  wlldcrnosa  to  Riehibucto,  in  50 -GO  M.  It  is  stated  by  good  authority  that  the 
fishing  in  tho  Salmon  River  has  been  ruined  by  the  lumber-mills ;  but  that  very 
good  sport  may  bo  found  on  the  Lake  Stream,  15-20  M.  beyond  Brigg's  Corner. 
Visitors  to  this  district  must  bo  provided  with  full  camp-cquipagc.  A  road  also 
leads  N.  W.  from  Rrigg's  Corner  (diverging  from  the  Riehibucto  road  at  Gaspercau) 
to  Blissville,  on  the  ii.  W.  Miramichi,  in  about  40  M. 

11.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 

By  the  Neto  Brunswick  Railway,  a  new  line  which  has  been  but  recently  opened 
to  trade.  It  is  a  narrow-gauge  roud,  and  travellers  who  are  not  familiar  with  that 
principle  of  railway-building  will  be  interested  in  observing  the  comparatively  low 
and  narrow,  but  comfortable  cars ;  the  small  locomotives ;  and  tho  construction  of 
the  bridges,  the  sharpness  of  the  curves,  and  tho  steepness  of  the  grades. 

The  New  Brunswick  Railway  is  now  completed  to  Florenceville,  and  is  being 
graded  to  Tobiciue,  whence  it  is  proposed  to  construct  a  branch  to  Cariboo,  13  M. 
up  tho  rich  valley  of  the  Aroostook.  The  company  hopes  that  tlie  line  will  be  car- 
ried through  to  Riviere  du  lioup,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  no  distant  date. 

Stations.  Gibson;  St.  Mary's,  1  M. ;  Douglas,  3;  Springhill,  5)  ;  Rockland, 
10;  lU'swick,  12;  Cardigan,  lOi  ;  Lawrence,  17i  ;  Zealand,  20;  Stoneridge,  22J; 
Burnsido,  25;  Upper  Keswick.  28i  ;  Burt  Lake,  32  :  IIayne8villo,36i  ;  Millville,38j  ; 
Nackawic,  43;  Falls  Brook,  48;  Woodstnck  Junction,  62  ;  Newburgh.  57;  River- 
side, GO  ;  Northampton,  6I4.     Faro  from  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  S1.75. 

Beyond  Woodstock  Junction  the  Now  Brunswick  Railway  runs  N.  to  Ilartland  (61 
M.  from  Fredericton)  and  to  Florenceville  (71  M).  The  trains  make  connections 
with  stages  for  Tobique  and  the  upper  St.  John  valley. 

The  traveller  crosses  the  St.  John  River  by  the  steam  ferry-boat  (5c.), 
from  Fredericton  to  Gibson;  and  the  terminal  station  of  the  railway  is 
near  the  ferry-landing.  As  the  train  moves  out,  pleasant  views  are  afforded 
3  D 


60      Route  11.     FKEDERICTON  TO  WOODSTOCK. 


,\' 


i  1 


:.'    ! 


II 


of  the  prosperous  nnd  liappy  settlements  which  have  been  founded  hereby 
Mr.  Gibson,  the  lunibcr-inerchiuit.  (Jlinipses  of  Fredoricton  nre  obtained 
on  the  1.,  nnd  beyond  St.  Mary's  the  Nnshwaaksis  Ilivor  is  crossed.  Tlicn 
follows  a  succession  of  bciuitirul  views  (to  the  1.)  over  the  wide  aiul  placid 
St.  John,  dotted  with  numerous  large  and  level  islands,  upon  which  nro 
clusters  of  gra<  ful  trees.  On  the  farther  shore  is  seen  the  village  of 
Springhill  (sec  page  51)  ;  and  the  broad  expanse  of  Sugar  Island  crosses 
the  river  a  little  way  above.  At  about  10  M.  from  Fredericton  the  lino 
changes  its  course  from  W.  to  N.  W.,  and  leaves  the  St.  John  valley, 
ascending  the  valley  of  tin'  Keswick,  —  a  district  which  is  boijinning  to 
show  the  rewards  of  the  arduous  labors  o(  early  pioneers.  The  Keswick 
Valley  was  settled  in  1783,  by  the  di  oandcd  American-loyalist  corps  of  New 
York  and  the  Royal  Guides,  and  tlieir  descendants  are  now  attacking  the 
remoter  back-country.  The  Keswick  flt-ws  through  a  pleasant  region,  and 
has  bold  features,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  escarped  wall  of  sandstone'  on 
the  1.  bank,  reaching  for  8-10  M.  from  its  month.  From  Cav'igan  station 
a  road  leads  into  the  old  Welsh  settlement  of  Cardujan. 

The  line  next  passes  Rcvcral  stations  on  the  old  domain  of  the  New  Brunswick 
Land  Conijmny,  an  association  wliich  was  inoorjioratcd  by  royal  charter  before  1840, 
and  jiurchased  from  the  Crown  550,000  acres  in  York  County.  They  estubllshed 
their  caiiital  and  chief  agency  at  the  village  of  Stanley,  oyQuvix  roads  thr<Mif;li  tho 
forest,  settled  a  large  comjany  of  peojile  from  the  Isle  nf  SkycuiK.n  their  lauds,  and 
expended  $500,000  in  vain  attempts  to  colonize  this  district. 

The  country  now  traversed  by  the  line  seems  desolate  and  unpromising, 
and  but  few  signs  of  civilization  are  visible.  This  forest-land  is  left  be- 
hind, and  the  open  valley  of  the  St.  John  is  approached,  beyond  Ncw- 
hurgh.  For  the  last  few  miles  of  the  journey  beautiful  views  are  given 
from  the  high  gi'ades  of  the  line,  including  the  river  and  its  intervales  and 
surrounding  hills.  The  terminal  station  is,  at  present,  in  a  field  about  Ij 
M.  from  Woodstock,  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  John,  which  is  here 
crossed  by  a  primitive  steam  ferry-boat. 

Woodstock  (American  House,  comfortable),  the  capital  of  Cai  ^ton 
County,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  John  and  Ideduxnekeag 
Rivers,  in  the  centre  of  a  thriving  agricultural  district.  The  population  is 
over  2,000,  and  the  town  is  favorably  situated  on  a  high  bluff  over  the  St. 
John  River.  The  Episcopal  Church  of  St.  Luke  and  the  Catholic  Church 
of  St.  Gertrude  are  on  Main  St.,  where  are  also  the  chief  buildings  of  tho 
town.  The  academy  called  Woodstock  College  is  located  here.  The 
country  in  this  vicinity  is  very  attractive  in  summer,  and  is  possessed  of  a 
rich  rural  beauty  which  is  uncommon  in  these  Provinces.  The  soil  is  a 
calcareous  loam,  producing  more  fruit  and  cereal  grains  than  any  other 
part  of  New  Brunswick.  The  bold  bluffs  over  the  St.  John  are  generally  well- 
wooded,  apd  the  intervales  bear  much  hay  and  grain.  There  are  large  saw- 
mills at  the  mouth  of  the  Meduxnekeag,  where  the  timber  which  is  cut  on 
its  upper  waters,  in  Maine,  is  made  into  lumber.    12  M.  from  Woodstock 


J. 


r 


WOODSTOCK. 


Route  12.       51 


ere  by 
tninoil 

Then 

|il:ioi(l 

cli  nro 

i\ge  of 

crosses 

10  line 

valley, 

ling  to 

eswick 

of  New 

ng  the 

ion, and 

ston'^  on 

1  station 

Irunswick 
■fore  1840. 
stahlished 
roiijxii  tho 
lauds,  and 

rwinising, 
s  left  be- 
)nd  Ncw- 
are  given 
vales  and 
about  li 
;h  is  here 

Cav'^ton 
uxnekeag 
)ulation  is 
rer  the  St. 
ic  Church 
ngs  of  tho 
ere.     The 
sessed  of  a 
le  soil  is  a 
any  other 
jrally  well- 
I  large  saw- 
h  is  cut  on 
Woodstock 


I 


f 


is  tho  American  village  of  nmlton,  the  ra])ital  of  Aroostook  Countv,  Maine; 
and  tho  citizens  of  the  two  towns  are  in  such  close  social  relations  that 
Woodstoi  k  bears  great  rcbcniblanco  to  a  Yankee  town,  both  in  its  archi- 
tecture and  its  society. 

"Of  the  quality  of  the  Wonilstook  iron  it  is  impossible  to  speak  too  Iilghly,  espe- 
rinlly  for  miikinij;  stwl,  und  it  is  easterly  son>;ht  by  the  urinur-plutc  uiiiiiufiKtiinrM  in 
Eiii^land.  On  six  dillerent  trials,  plates  of  Woodstoek  iron  were  only  sli;ililly  in- 
dented by  an  Armstronn  sb  >t,  which  ^*hattel•ed  to  pieces  serap mm  jilatesof  the  best 
(|iiality  and  of  similar  thiclviicss.  When  cast  it  has  a  fine  silvcr-tjray  color,  is  slnt^u- 
larly  close-grained,  and  rings  lik(!  steel  on  being  struck.  A  cubic  incl>  of  Wood- 
Stock  iron  weighs  '12  p<  r  cent  more  than  the  like  (juantity  of  Swedish,  Russian,  or 
Ea-tt  Indian  iron.''  (II  ^  Aiithuu  Ookdo-N.)  The  mines  are  some  distance  from 
the  village,  and  are  being  worked  offlcieutly,  their  products  being  much  used  for  the 
Uritish  iron-clad  frigat«!S. 

The  \.  II.  &  0.  Railway  runs  S.  from  A\'o(»dsjock  to  St  Stephen  and  St.  Andrews 
(.«eo  page  315);  fare,  $2.90.  Tho  N.  B.  Railway  goes  S.  E.  to  Fredericton ;  fare, 
$  1.75.  Steamers  run  to  Fredericton  and  to  (Jrand  Falls,  when  tl>e  river  is  high 
enough.  StJiges  pass  by  the  river-road  to  Fredericton  semi-weekly,  and  duily  stages 
run  N.  to  Uraud  Falls,  and  uiso  W.  to  lluultou. 

12.   Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  by  the  St.  John  Eiver. 

During  the  spring  and  autumn,  when  there  i-<  enough  water  in  tho  river,  thta 
route  is  served  by  steamboats.  At  other  times  the  journey  may  be  made  by  the 
mail-stuge.  Tho  distan.  e  is  02  M.  ;  the  faro  Is  !$2.6U.  I'lio  stage  is  uncovei"d,  and 
hence  is  undesirable  as  a  means  of  conveyance  except  in  plea.sant  weather.  Most 
travellers  will  prefer  to  pass  between  Fndericton  and  Woodstock  by  tho  new  rail- 
way (see  Route  11).  The  stage  pa.s.ses  u|>  the  S.  aud  W.  side  of  tho  river.  The  en- 
suing itinerary  speaks  of  the  river-villages  in  their  order  of  location,  without  refer- 
ence to  the  stations  of  the  stages  and  steamboats. 

Distances.  —Fredericton  to  Springhill,  5  M.  ;  Lower  French  Village,  9:  Bris- 
tol (Kingsdear),  16;  Ix)wer  I'rinco  William,  21 ;  Prince  William,  2o  ;  Dumfrit  32; 
Pokiok  Falls,  39 ;  Lower  Canterbury, 44 ;  Canterbury, 61 ;  Lower  Woodstock ;  \\  ood- 
stock,  52. 

On  leaving  Fredericton,  pleasant  prospects  of  the  city  and  its  Nash- 
waak  suburbs  are  aflbrdcd,  and  successions  of  pretty  views  are  obt;  ,;  d 
over  the  rich  alluvial  ishinds  which  till  the  river  for  over  7  M.,  up  to  tho 
mouth  of  the  Keswick  iliver.  Springhill  (S.  shore)  is  the  first  village, 
and  has  about  250  inhabitants,  with  an  Episcopal  church  and  a  small  inn. 
The  prolific  intervales  of  Sugar  1  land  are  seen  on  the  r.,  nearly  closing 
tho  estuary  of  the  Keswick,  and  ihe  road  passes  <  n  to  the  Indian  \  ^lage, 
where  reside  25  families  of  the  Milicete  tribe.  A  short  distance  beyond 
is  the  Loicer  French  Vilhtye  (McKinley's  inn),  inhabited  by  a  farming 
population  descended  from  the  old  Acadian  fugitives.  The  road  and  river 
now  run  to  the  S.  W.,  through  tho  rural  parish  of  Kingsclear,  which  was 
settled  in  1784  by  the  2d  Battalion  of  New  Jersey  Loyalists.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Bristol  (Kingsclear)  Burgoyne's  Ferry  is  reached,  and  the  scat- 
tered cottages  of  Lower  Queensbury  are  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  After 
crossing  Lung's  Creek  the  road  and  river  turn  to  the  N.  W.,  and  soon 
reach  the  village  of  Lower  Prince  William  (Wason's  inn).  9  M.  S.  W.  of 
this  point  is  a  settlement  amid  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Lake  Ceorge, 
where  an  antimony-mine  is  being  worked ;  3  M.  beyond  which  is  Magxindy 
(small  inn),  to  the  W.  of  Lake  George. 


52      Route  12. 


FORT  MEDUCTIC. 


,t 


lii 


t  ' 


I 


:i    ^ 


Tlio  road  i>a!!!'cs  on  to  Prince  Williiim,  throuph  a  parish  which  was 
originally  scttlctl  by  tlio  King's  American  Dnipoons,  and  is  now  occujjitMl 
by  their  descendants.  On  the  X.  shore  arc  th<>  hilly  nplands  of  the  parish 
of  Quocnsbnry,  which  were  settled  by  the  disbanded  men  of  the  Queen's 
Rangers,  after  the  Kevolutionary  War.  Kich  intervale  islands  arc  seen  in 
the  river  between  these  parishes.  Heyond  Dumfriat  (small  hotel)  the 
hamlet  of  I'ppcr  Queensbury  is  seen  on  the  N.  shore,  and  the  river  sweeps 
around  a  broad  bend  at  whose  head  is  Pok'wk,  with  largt  lumber-nulls, 
3  M.  from  Allandale.  There  is  a  fine  pier  e  of  scenery  here,  where  the 
Kiver  Pokiok  (an  Indian  word  meaning  "the  Dreadful  Place  "),  the  out- 
let of  Lake  George,  enters  the  St.  John.  The  river  first  plunges  over  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  40  ft.  and  then  enters  a  fine  gorge,  1,200  ft.  long,  75  1^. 
deep,  and  25  ft.  wide,  cut  through  opposing  ledges  of  dark  rock.  The 
Pokiok  bounds  down  tiiis  chasm,  from  step  to  ^tep,  until  it  reaches  the 
St.  John,  and  affords  a  beautiful  sight  in  time  of  high  water,  although 
its  current  is  often  encumbered  with  masses  of  rin'-rafi'  and  rubbish  from 
the  saw-mills  above.  'J'he  gorge  should  be  inspected  from  below,  although 
it  cannot  be  ascended  along  the  bottom  on  account  of  the  velocity  of  the 
contracted  stream.  About  4  M.  from  Pokiok  (and  nearer  to  Dumfries)  is 
the  j)retty  highland  water  of  Prince  William  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M. 
hi  diameter. 

Lowur  Ointerhunj  (inn)  is  about  5  M.  beyond  Pokiok,  and  is  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Sheogomoc  River,  flowing  out  from  a  lake  of  the  same  name. 
At  Cnnterbunj  (Iloyt's  inn)  the  Eel  River  is  crossed;  and  about  5  M.  be- 
yond, the  road  passes  the  site  of  the  old  French  works  o{  Fort  Mtductic. 

This  fort  conimanded  the  portapc  Ijotwocn  the  St.  John  and  the  route  by  the  upper 
Eel  Kiver  nud  tlie  Kel  and  North  LhIvI'H  to  tlic  Chiputneticook  Lukes  and  I'ast'ania- 
quoddy  Hay.  Portions  of  thene  ])orta(;eH  are  marked  by  deep  imthways  worn  in  the 
rot'ks  by  the  moceasons  of  many  genenitions  of  Indian  hunters  and  warriors.  By 
this  route  inarched  the  devastating  savage  tmops  of  the  Chevalier  de  Villebon  to 
many  a  niertiless  foray  on  the  New  England  borders.  Tlie  land  in  this  vicinity, 
and  the  lordship  of  the  Milicete  town  at  RIeductic,  were  granted  in  1(184  to  the  ifieur 
t'lignancourt,  the  brave  Parisian  who  aided  in  repelling  the  troops  of  MaKsachusetta 
from  the  fort  on  the  .Ienisi>g.  Here,  also,  during  high  water,  the  Indians  were 
obliged  to  make  a  portage  around  the  Meductie  Ku])ids,  and  the  command  of  this 
point  was  deemed  of  great  importanco  and  value.  (See  also  the  account  of  Allan's 
retreat,  ou  page  46.) 

Off  this  point  arc  the  Meductie  Rapids,  where  the  steamboats  sometimes 
find  it  difficult  to  make  headway  against  the  descending  waters,  accel- 
erated by  a  slight  incline.  The  road  now  runs  N.  through  the  pleasant 
valley  of  the  St.  John,  with  hill-ranges  on  either  side.  Lower  Woodstock 
is  a  prosperous  settlement  of  about  500  inhabitants,  and  the  road  soon 
apjiroaches  the  N.  B.  &  C.  Railway  (see  page  37),  and  runs  between  that 
line  and  the  river. 

"  Tlie  approach  to  Woodstock,  fVom  the  v  M  church  upwards,  is  one  of  the  pleas- 
antest  drives  in  the  Province,  the  road  being  shaded  on  eitlier  side  witli  fine  trees, 
and  the  comfortable  ioi-m-houses  aud  garden^,  the  scattered  clumps  of  wood,  the 


*> 


FLORENCEVILLE. 


Route  13.       53 


winrllnfts  of  tho  pfimt  rlvrr,  tho  plotiiresquo  knoll.*,  nnd  the  (?Jiy  npponmnro  of  tho 
priUy  «traj?(?lin'  little  town,  all  giving  an  air  of  a  long-»cttk'd,  iiouct-ful,  EngUsh- 
looking  rouutr) .  '   (Uokdon.) 


**■ 


I 


I 


13.  Woodstock  to  Grand  Falli  and  Riviere  du  Loup. 

The  pleasantor  ronto  to  Grand  FalN  Is  hy  the  stonmbont'*,  — small,  light-dmuffht 
craft,  which  wuttle  up  the  rapidn  iind  ovtT  the  HhallowH  iw  long  tt«  thuro  is  enough 
water  in  the  rivt-r  (usually  only  duriu);  tho  springtime  and  autumn). 

The  lloyal  niail-HUigeH  leave  \V(M)dsKK-k  at  t!  P.  M.  daily  :  Mupix-r  at  Middle  Siinonds 
(Mills'H),  15  M.  out;  hruakfaHt  at  Tohi^ue,  at  4  A.  M.  ;  n-ach  (Jrand  Kalin  at  K  a.  m., 
and  remain  one  hour;  dinner  at  Ik-lyeaV,  18  M.  beyond  ;  »up|>er  at  Jkinuuidston, 
and  remain  one  hour ;  breakfast  at  l^i  Belle's,  at  1  a.  M.,  and  rearh  Uivlero  du  Loup 
in  time  for  the  morning  train  for  Quebec  or  Montreal.  The  time  between  Wood- 
stock and  lUvifcre  du  Loup  is  .'ii)-40  hours.  The  New  Brunswick  llailway  has  been 
extended  beyond  Woodstock  Junction  to  Flon-tJcevillc  ami  Muniac,  and  stagi-s  con- 
nect with  the  trains  at  the  latter  station  and  run  through  to  Tobique.  The  railway 
will  probably  reach  tho  latter  poiut  this  year.  I'as.sengers  leave  Woodstock  ( North- 
ampton i  at  8  A.  M.,  change  cars  at  Woodstock  Junction,  and  reach  Muniac  about 
3.20  p.  M. 

DltilanceB.  — Woodstock  to  Victoria,  11  M.  ;  Florencevillo,  24;  Tobiquo,  50 ; 
Grand  Falhi,  75;  Kdnuindston,  113;   Uivlero  du  Loup,  ll>3. 

Fares.  —  By  stage,  Woodstock  to  Floronceville,  )«  1  50  ;  Toblquc,  S3;  Grand 
VvSU,  .54.25;  Grand  Falls  to  JrV'v.uudston,  $250;  Edmundston  to  Ulviero  du 
^joup,  ^6. 

71, c  rofttl  from  Wootlstock  tf  V-  .ixnccville  i.s  pleasant  nnd  in  nn  at- 
tractive country.  "It  is  '*  ch.  i'^lngii-'' ,  nnd  pretty  When  I  .say  Eng- 
lish, I  ouglit,  perhaps,  nitiir .  tc  y<\y  S<  otch,  for  tho  general  features  are 
those  of  the  lowhu. '  pnr  s  -A  iVi'tlr^'ilre,  though  tho  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion—  tall  crops  of  '  n  ".  ui-'ininr'  ivids  of  golden  wheat,  and  fine  well- 
grown  hard-wood  —  speaks  oi  «  ,i.n'0  southern  latitude.  Single  trees  and 
clunips  are  here  left  about  tho  fields  and  on  tho  hillsides,  under  the  shado 
of  wiiich  well-looking  cattlo  may  bo  seen  resting,  whilst  on  the  other  hand 
arc  pretty  \iew3  of  river  and  distance,  visible  under  fine  willows,  or 
through   birches  that  carried  mo  back  to  Deeside."     (Hon.  Autiiuu 

Goi'.DON.) 

Soon  after  leaving  Woodstock  tho  stage-road  takes  a  direction  to  tbo 
N  E.,  keeping  along  the  W.  bank  of  tho  St.  John  River.  Victoria  and 
Middle  Simonds  (Mills's  Hotel)  are  quiet  hamlets  on  tho  river,  centres 
of  agricultural  districts  of  5-800  inhabitants  each.  Florenceville  (largo 
hotel)  is  a  pretty  village,  "perched,  like  an  Italian  town,  on  the  very  top 
of  a  high  bluff  far  over  the  river."  The  road  now  swings  around  to  the 
N.  W.  and  traverses  tho  settlements  of  Wicklow.  The  district  between 
Woodstock  and  Wicklow  was  settled  after  the  American  Revolution  by 
the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  West  India  Rangers  and  the  New  Brunswick 
Fencibles. 

"  Between  Florencevillo  nnd  Tobiquo  the  road  becomes  even  prettier, 
winding  along  tho  bank  of  tho  St.  .lohn,  or  through  woody  glens  that 
combine  to  my  eye  Somersetshire,  Perthshire,  and  the  green  wooded  part 
of  southwestern  Germany."    There  are  five  distinct  terraces  along  the 


64       Jtoute  13. 


TOBIQUE. 


i! 


hi 


valley,  showing  the  geological  changes  in  the  level  of  the  river,  and  the 
banks  of  the  stream  are  composed  of  sand  and  gravel.  The  intervale  is 
usually  narrow,  and  is  broken  frequently  by  intrusive  highlands. 
■  6  M.  S.  W.  of  the  river  is  ^lars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  about  1,200  ft. 
high,  which  overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  forest.  This  was  one  of  tl  o  chief 
points  of  controversy  during  the  old  border-troubles,  and  its  summit  was 
cL-ared  by  the  Commissioners  of  1794.  The  road  now  crosses  the  River 
dcs  CluUes,  at  whose  mouth  are  large  saw-mills,  near  the  site  of  an  an- 
cient waterfall  which  has  disappeared  on  nccount  of  the  erosion  of  the 
rocks.  Above  this  point  the  country  is  less  thickly  settled,  and  the  road 
passes  up  near  the  river.  Perth  village  is  seen  on  the  K.  shore,  and  the 
narrowing  valleys  of  Victoria  County  are  traversed. 

Tobique  (Newcomb's  inn),  otherwise  known  as  Andover,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  tlie  St.  John,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Tobique  Kiver.  It  has  400  inhabitants  und  2  churches,  and  is  the  chief 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  lumbering-camps  on  the  Tobique  River.  Nearly 
opposite  is  a  large  and  picturesque  Indian  village,  containing  about  150 
persons  of  the  Milicetc  trii)e,  and  situated  on  the  blulTat  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers.  They  have  a  valuable  reservation  here,  and  the  men  of  the 
tribe  engage  in  lumboring  and  boating. 

Fort  Fairfield  (Fort  Fairfidtl  House)  is  7  M.  N.  W.  of  Tobique,  and  is  jn 
Anu'rican  Imnler-town ,  with  900  inhnbifaiits,  5  diurphcs,  and  several  snuill  lip- 
tories.  This  town  was  settltMl  by  men  of  New  Brunswick  in  1810,  at  whicii  tin-,.!  it 
was  Kupposftl  to  1)0  inside  tlie  Provincial  line.  A  road  runs  from  Fort  Faii-flold  S.  W. 
to  PrcRque  Isle  (  Presque  Isle  Hotel),  a  village  of  about  1  000  inhabitants,  with  4 
churches,  an  academy,  several  factories,  and  a  newspaper  (the  "Presque  Isle  Sun- 
rise"). This  town  is  42  M.  N.  of  Iloulton,  on  the  U.  S.  military  road  which  runs 
to  the  Madawaska  district,  and  is  one  of  the  centres  of  tlie  rich  farming  lands  of  the 
AroostookAalley,  parts  of  which  are  now  occupied  by  Swedish  colonists. 

From  Tobique  to  Bnihurst.     Throvr/h  the  Wildei'ness. 

fluidcfl  and  canoes  can  bo  obtained  at  the  Indian  village  near  Tobique.  About 
1  M.  above  Tobique  the  voyagers  r.siend  through  the  Narrows,  where  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  Tobi(iue  Kiver  is  confined  in  a  winding  canon  (1  M.  long,  150  ft  wide, 
and  50-100  ft.  deep)  between  high  limestone  cliffs  Then  the  river  broadens  out 
into  a  pretty  lake-like  reach,  with  rounded  and  forest-covered  hills  on  either  fide. 
The  first  night-camp  is  usually  made  high  up  on  this  reach.  Two  more  rapids  are 
next  passed,  and  then  commences  a  stretch  of  clear,  deep  water  70  M.  long.  N«'ar 
the  foot  of  tiie  reach  is  the  settlement  of  Art/nirette,  with  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  lied  Rapids  are  11  M  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  de.'^cend  between  liigh 
shores.  Occasional  beautifully  wooded  islands  are  passed  in  the  stream;  and  by 
the  evening  of  the  second  day  the  voyagers  should  reach  the  high  red  cliffs  at  the 
mouth  of  the  broad  Wapskehegan  River.  This  Indian  name  signifies  "  a  river  with 
a  wall  at  its  mouth,"  and  the  stream  may  be  ascended  for  20  M.,  through  a  region 
of  limestone  hills  and  alluvial  Intervales.  The  Wap.skehegan  is  31  M.  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Tobique. 

Infrequent  clearings,  red  cliffs  along  the  shore,  and  blue  hills  more  remote,  en- 
gage the  attention  an  the  canoe  ascends  still  farther,  passing  the  hamlet  of  Foster''s 
Cove  on  the  N.  bank,  and  running  along  the  shores  of  Diamond  and  Long  Island, 
44  M.  up  river  is  the  Agulquac  River,  coming  in  from  the  E.,  and  navigable  by 
c&not-s  for  25  M.  As  the  intervales  beyond  this  confluence  are  passed,  occasional 
glimpses  are  gained  (on  the  r.)  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  other  tall  ridges.  At  80  M. 
flrom  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  canoe  reaches  The  Forks  (4-6  days  from  Tobique>. 


> 


i 


1(1 


i 


r 


NICTOR  LAKE. 


Route  13.       55 


> 


The  Campbell  River  here  comes  in  from  the  E.  nnd  S.  E.,  from  the  great  Toblqne 
Lake  and  other  remote  wilderness-waters;  the  Momozcket  descends  from  the  N., 
and  from  the  N.  W.  comes  the  Nictor,  or  Little  Tobiquc  lliver.  It  is  a  goo1  day'g 
journey  from  the  Forks  to  Cedar  Brook,  on  the  Nictor;  and  cnother  day  conducta 
to  the  *  Nictor  Lake,  "  possessing  more  beauty  of  scenery  than  any  other  localit/ 
I  have  seen  in  the  Province,  except,  perhaps,  the  Bay  of  Chalour.  Close  to  its 
soutliern  etlge  a  granite  mountain  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly  3,(HI0  fl.,  clothed  with 
wood  to  its  Hunmiit,  except  wheR'  it  breaks  into  precipices  of  dark  rock  or  long  gray 
Bhinglv  slopes.  Other  mountains  of  less  height,  but  in  some  cases  of  more  pictur- 
esque "forms,  arc  on  other  sides  ;  and  in  the  lake  itself,  in  the  shadow  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  a  little  rocky  islet  of  most  invitfr.'j  appearance."  It  takes  2-3  hours  to 
ascend  the  mountain  "(Bald,  or  Sagamook),  whence  "  the  view  is  ver>-  fine.  The  lake 
lies  right  at  our  feet,  — millions  of  acres  of  forest  are  spread  out  before  us  like  a 
map,  sinking  and  swelling  in  one  dark  mantle  over  hills  and  valleys,  whilst  Katah- 
din  and  Mars  Hill  in  Maine,  Tracadiegash  in  Canada,  the  Squaw's  Cap  on  the 
Restigouche.  and  (Jreen  Mountain  in  Victoria,  are  all  di8tin<:tly  visible."  (Gordon.) 
From  tne  head  of  Nictor  Lake  a  portage  3  M.  long  leads  to  the  Neplsigult  Lake, 
on  whose  E.  shore  in  Jie  remarkable  peak  called  Mount  TeneriiTe.  Near  the  outlf^ 
is  a  famous  camping-grouud,  where  the  fishing  is  good  and  in  whose  vicinity  deer 
and  ducks  are  found. 

It  takes  about  six  days  to  descend  the  Nffisiguit  River  to  the  Great  Falls,  the 
larger  part  of  the  way  being  through  forests  of  fir  and  between  distant  ranges  of 
bare  granite  hills. 

Theie  is  a  Provincial  highway  which  follows  the  W.  shore  of  the  Tobique  River, 
and  touches  the  lower  end  of  Nictor  Lake,  whence  it  runs  N.  ami  N.  E.  across  the 
uninhabited  valley  of  the  Upsalquitch  to  Campl>cllton,  on  the  Restigouche.  (See 
Route  14.) 


C  M.  ftbove  Tobiquc  is  the  month  of  the  Aroostook  River,  which  trav- 
erses a  great  area  of  northern  Maine,  and  for  the  last  5  M.  of  its  course  is 
in  New  Brunswicli.  It  i.s  not  easily  navigable  on  account  of  several  rapids 
nnd  the  falls  near  Fort  Fairfield;  yet  great  quantities  of  lumber  are  floated 
do>vn  its  current.  There  is  n  thriving  village  near  the  rnouth  of  the  river. 
7  M.  fixrther  N.  the  hamlet  of  Grand  Falls  Portage  is  passed,  and  the  road 
leaves  the  St.  John,  which  here  begins  a  broad  bend  to  the  W.  About  10 
M.  above  the  Portage  the  steamboat  or  stage  reaches  Grand  Falls  (2  inns), 
otherwise  known  as  Colebrooke.  This  town  has  about  700  inhabitants, 
and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  narrow  peninsula  near  the  cataract.  It 
was  formerly  a  fortified  post  of  the  British  anny,  and  is  now  the  capital  of 
Victoria  County.  It  is  hoped  that  large  manufiicturing  interests  will  bo 
developed  here  when  the  railway  is  completed  from  Woodstock  to  Riviere 
du  Loup.  Daily  stages  leave  for  Woodstock  and  for  Riviere  du  Loup; 
and  steamboats  descend  the  river  during  the  brief  seasons  of  navigation. 
The  environs  of  the  village  are  remarkable  for  their  picturesque  beauty, 
and  the  view  from  the  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  gorge  of  the  St.  John  is 
worthy  of  notice. 

The  **  Grand  Falls  are  near  the  village,  and  form  the  most  imposing 
cataract  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  The  river  expands  into  a  broad  basin 
above,  afibrding  a  landing-place  for  descending  canoes;  then  hurries  its 
massive  current  into  a  narrow  rock-bound  gorge,  in  which  it  slants  down 
an  incline  of  6  ft.,  and  then  plunges  over  a  precipice  of  calcareous  slate 


1 

\ 

y 

11' 


\i 


il  II 


'.  » 


66      Route  13. 


GRAND  FALLS. 


58  ft.  hijrh.  The  shape  of  the  fall  is  singular,  since  the  water  leaps  from 
the  front  and  fn>m  both  sides,  with  minor  and  detached  cascades  over  the 
outer  ledges.  Ik'low  tl>c  cataract  the  river  whirls  and  whitens  for  \  M. 
through  a  rugged  irorge  250  ft.  wide,  whose  walls  of  dark  rock  are  from 
100  to  240  ft.  high.  "  It  is  a  narrow  and  frightful  chasm,  lashed  by  the 
troubled  water,  and  excavated  by  boiling  eddies  and  whirlpools  always 
in  motion;  at  last  tho  water  plunges  in  an  immense  frothy  sheet  into  a 
basin  below,  wh'^ro  it  becomes  tranquil,  and  the  stream  resumes  its  origi- 
nal features."  Within  the  gorge  the  river  falls  58  ft.  more,  and  the  rug- 
ged shores  are  strewn  with  the  vvrocks  of  lumber-rafts  which  have  become 
entangled  here.  The  traveller  should  try  to  visit  the  Falls  when  a  raft  is 
about  passing  over.  3-4  .M.  below  the  Falls  is  the  dangerous  Rapide  de 
Femme.  Small  stertmt  rs  have  been  placed  or.  the  river  above  the  Falls, 
and  have  run  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis,  OC  JL  distant. 

It  is  a  tradlMon  of  the  Mimincs  that  in  a  remote  ago  two  famiiicn  of  their  tribe 
were  on  the  iipiwr  St.  .loUn  hutithin,  and  wore  surprised  l)y  a  war-party  of  tho 
Btraiige  and  dreadt'd  Northern  Indians.  Tiie  latter  were  descendinu;  tlie  river  to  at- 
tack the  lower  Micniac  villages,  and  fon  ed  the  captured  women  to  pilot  them  down. 
A  few  mill's  above  the  falls  they  asked  their  lunvillinR  j^uides  if  tlie  8tn>ani  was  all 
Bumoth  below,  and  on  rorcivinjr  an  afHrniative  answer,  lashed  the  canoes  together 
into  a  raft,  and  went  to  sleej),  exhausted  with  their  march.  When  near  the  Urand 
Fall.s  the  women  quietly  dropped  overboard  and  swam  ashore,  while  the  hostile  war- 
riors, wrap|)ed  in  slumber,  were  swept  down  into  the  rapids,  only  to  awaken  when 
escape  was  impossi'jle.  Their  bodies  were  strii)ix'd  by  tlu'  Micmacs  on  the  river  be- 
low, and  the  brave  women  were  ever  afterward  held  in  liigh  honor  by  the  tribe. 

Crossing  the  .St.  John  at  Grand  Falls,  the  stage  ascends  the  E.  bank  of 
the  stream,  and  soon  enters  the  Acadian-French  settlements  and  fiirming- 
districts.  8-10  M.  uj)  the  road  is  the  village  of  St.  Lionai'd,  nearly  all  of 
whose  people  arc  French;  and  on  tho  American  shore  (for  the  St.  Join 
River  is  for  many  leagues  the  frontier  between  the  nations)  is  the  simi- 
larly constituted  village  of  Vcn  Burtu  (two  iims).  This  district  is  largely 
peopled  by  the  Cyr,  Violette,  and  Michaud  families. 

The  lion.  Arthtir  Gordon  thus  describes  one  of  ♦!iO.'^"  Acadian  homes  near  (iran'l 
River  (in  18(53):  "The  whole  aspect  of  the  farm  wa.s  that  of  a  viclairie  in  Nor- 
mandy ;  the  outer  doors  of  tlie  house  gaudily  painted.  tl»e  panels  of  a  dilTerent 
color  from  the  frame,— the  large,  open,  unearpeted  room,  witii  its  bare  shining 
floor,  —  the  lasses  at  the  siiinniiig-wheel, —  tlie  French  costume  and  appearance  of 
Madame  Violet  and  ■.r  sons  and  daughters,  —  all  carried  me  back  to  tlic  other  side 
of  the  Atlantic." 

Grand  River  (TardifT's  inn)  is  a  hamlet  about  4  M.  beyond  St.  Leonard, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  tlic  same  name. 

The  St.  .John  Rlrer  to  the  Rcstif/ouche. 

A  nxgged  wilderness-journey  may  be  made  on  tliLs  line,  by  engaging  Acadian 
guides  and  canoes  at  the  Madawiuskaeettlemcnts.  3-4  weeks  will  be  suflicient  time 
to  reach  tho  Bay  of  Chalenr,  with  plenty  of  fishing  on  tlie  way.  On  leaving  the  .•'t. 
John  the  voyagers  a.«((iid  the  (!rai:d  lliver  to  its  triliutary,  the  \Vi  gausis.  A  port- 
ago  of  6 -(i  M.  from  this  stream  leads  to  the  Waagan,  down  wliost.  narrow  current 
tho  canoes  float  through  the  forest  until  the  broad  ilestigouclie  is  entered  (see  Koutu 
16 }  Bee  also  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon  iu  "  Vacation  Tourlsta  "  for  1802  -  W3,  p.  477). 


'.'I 


MADAWASKA. 


Route  13.       57 


I 


6  M.  above  Grand  River  is  St.  Basil  (two  inns),  which,  with  its  back 
settlements,  has  over  1,400  inhabitants.  A  few  miles  beyond  are  some 
islands  in  the  St.  John  River,  over  which  is  seen  the  American  village  of 
Grant  Isle  (Levecque's  inn),  a  place  of  700  inhabitants,  all  of  whom  arc 
Acadians.  This  village  was  incorporated  in  1869,  and  is  on  the  U.  S.  mail- 
route  from  Van  nuren  to  Fort  Kent.  Beyond  the  populous  village  of 
Green  River  the  road  continues  around  the  great  bend  of  the  St.  John  to 
the  Acadian  settlement  which  is  variously  known  as  Madawaska,  Ed- 
mundston,  and  Little  Falls.  There  are  about  400  inhabitants  here,  most 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  lumbering  and  in  agriculture.  The  town  occupies 
a  favorable  position  at  the  confluence  of  the  Madawaska  and  St.  John 
Rivers,  and  it  is  to  be  the  objective  point  of  the  New  Brunswick  Railway 
(see  page  50)  during  the  year  1875.  This  is  the  centre  of  the  Acadian- 
French  settlements  which  extend  from  the  Grand  Falls  to  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Francis,  and  up  the  Mtidawaska  to  Temiscouata  Lake.  This  dis- 
trict is  studded  with  Roman  Catholic  chapels,  and  is  divided  into  narrow 
farms,  on  which  are  quaint  little  houses.  There  are  rich  tracts  of  intervale 
along  the  rivers,  and  the  people  are  generally  in  a  prosperous  and  happy 
condition.  The  visitor  should  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  loftily  situated  old 
block-house  tower,  over  Edmundston,  for  the  sakeof  the  wide  prospect  over 
the  district. 

This  people  is  dcFrcndod  from  the  French  colonists  who  livod  on  the  shores  of  the 
Bay  of  Fuiiily  and  tl\o  llasin  of  Minus  at  tlie  middle  of  the  IStli  century.  >Vlien 
tlio  cruel  edict  of  exile  was  carried  into  effect  in  1755  (se<' Route  21),  many  of  tlio 
Acadians  tied  from  the  Anglo-American  troops  and  took  refuge  in  the  forest.  A  por- 
tion of  them  ascended  the  St.  .John  to  the  present  site  of  Fredericton,  and  founded 
a  new  home  ;  but  they  were  ejected  .'JO  years  later,  in  order  that  the  land  mi^rht  he 
given  to  the  refugee  American  Loyalist.s.  Then  they  advanced  into  the  trackles.s 
forest,  ami  .settletl  in  the  Madawaska  region,  where  they  have  been  permitted  to  re- 
main undisturbed.  When  the  American  frontier  wius  pushed  forward  to  the  St. 
.lohn  River,  by  the  .«harp  diplomacy  of  Mr.  Webster,  the  Acadians  found  themselves 
divided  by  a  national  boundary  ;  and  so  they  still  remain,  nearly  half  of  the  villages 
being  on  the  side  of  the  United  States.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  now  about 
8,000  persons  in  these  settlements. 

"  It  was  pleasant  to  tlrive  alonfr  the  wide  flat  intervale  which  formed  the  Jlada- 
waska  Valley  ;  to  see  thr  rich  c;ops  of  oats,  buckwheat,  and  potatoes  ;  the  large, 
often  handsome,  and  exteti.r.iiy  clean  and  comfortable-looking  houses  of  the  inhab- 
itants, with  the  wooded  high  grounds  at  a  distance  on  our  right,  and  the  river  on 
our  left,  —  on  which  an  occasicmal  boat,  laden  with  stor(>s  for  the  lumberers,  with 
the  help  of  stout  horses,  toiled  against  the  current  towards  the  rarely  visited  head- 
waters of  the  tributary  streams,  where  the  virgin  forests  still  stood  unconscious  cf 
the  axe.  This  beautiful  valley,  with  the  rich  lands  which  l>order  the  river  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  a.»  far  almost  as  that  of  the  river  St.  Francis,  is  the 
peculliir  seat  of  the  old  Acadian-French."    (I'nor  -Ioiinston.) 

The  American  village  of  IflndaxyaHka  (iwo  inns)  is  opposite  E  Imundston,  and 
has  over  1,000  inhabitants.  The  U.  S.  mail-stjiges  run  from  this  point  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  St.  .lohn  for  10  M.  to  another  .\cadian  viM.ige,  which  was  first  named 
Dioimo  (in  bono*-  of  Father  Dionne,  who  founded  liere  the  Church  of  St.  Luce) ;  in 
18(50  was  incorporated  as  Dickey  ville,  in  lumor  of  some  l'>cal  statesman  ;  and  in  1871 
received  the  name  of  Fivncliville,  "as  describing  thj  nationality  of  its  settlers." 
From  near  Frencbville  a  portage  f,  M.  long  leads  to  the  shores  of  TM/ce  Ciefetatift, 
a  line  sheet  (^f  water  0  M.  long,  conni-cted  by  Second  Lake  and  Luke  Preble  with 
Lake  Sedgwick,  which  la  nearly  10  .M.  long. 


w 


58       lioiiie  13. 


TEMISCOUATA   LAKE. 


'P 


^ 


16  M.  S.  W.  r»f  MadawnFka  is  Fort  Kent,  nn  old  bordor-post  of  the  U.  S.  Army.  It 
has  two  inns  and  about  1,(KX)  inh»i)itants  (inrlmliiiK  the  adjacent  farijiinR  settle- 
ments), and  is  the  terminus  of  tlie  mail-route  fioin  Van  lluren.  From  this  point 
stages  run  W.  '20  M.  to  the  Acadian  village  of  St.  Francis,  near  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Francis  Hiver.  The  latter  stream,  flowing  from  the  N.  U'.,  is  the  boundary  of  the 
United  States  for  the  next  40  M.,  descending  through  the  long  lakes  called  Wela- 
stookwaagauiis,  IVchtaweekaagomic,  and  I'ohonegamook.  Above  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Fnincis,  the  St.  John  River  is  included  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  flows 
through  that  imnicn.>-e  and  trackless  forest  which  covers  "  an  extent  seven  times  that 
of  the  famous  Black  Forest  of  (.Jermany  at  its  largest  expanse  in  modern  times.  The 
Suites  of  Uho(l:>  Island,  Connecticut,  and  Delaware  could  be  lost  together  in  our 
northern  forests,  au;!  still  leave  about  each  a  margin  of  wilderness  sufliciently  wide 
to  make  the  exploration  witiiout  a  compass  a  work  of  desperate  adventure."  Its 
chief  tributary  in  the  woods  is  the  Allagash,  which  descends  from  the  great  Lakes 
Pemgockwahen  aiid  Chambcrlyin,  near  the  Chesuncook  and  Moosehcad  Lakes  and 
the  head-waters  of  the  Penobscot. 

The  U.  S.  mail-stages  al.so  run  S.  from  Fort  Kent  to  Patten,  about  100  M.  S.,  near 
Mount  Katahdin ;  wlitncc  another  stage-line  runs  out  to  Mattau'a»ikeafi,  on  the 
E.  <S:  N.  A.  llaiiway  (see  page  39).  in  38  M.  8  -  10  M.  S.  of  Fort  Kent,  by  this  road, 
is  Lake  Winthrop  (15  M.  long  by  1  -  3  M.  wide),  the  westernmost  of  the  great  Jllagle 
LakeS)  famous  for  their  white-fish  and  burbot. 

At  Kilinundston  the  Koynl  mail-route  leaves  the  St.  John  River,  and 
nscends  the  W.  shore  of  the  Madawaska.  But  few  settlemcnt.s  are  passed, 
and  at  12  M.  from  Kdmundston  the  Province  of  Quebec  is  entered. 
About  25  M.  from  Edmundston  the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  plctuicsquo 
Temisoouata  Lake,  where  there  is  a  small  village.  The  road  is  parallel 
with  the  water,  but  at  a  considerable  distance  from  it,  luitil  near  the 
upper  jiart,  and  pretty  views  arc  afforded  from  various  points  where  it 
overlooks  the  hike. 

Temiscouata  is  an  Indian  word  meaning  "  Winding  Water,"  and  the  lake 
is  30  M.  long  by  2-3  M.  wide.  The  scenery  is  very  pretty,  and  the  clear 
deep  waters  contain  many  fish,  the  best  of  which  are  the  tuladi,  or  great 
gray  trout,  which  sometimes  weighs  over  12  pounds.  There  are  also  white- 
fish  and  burbot.  Visitors  to  the  lake  usually  stop  at  Fournier's  old  inn, 
where  canoes  may  be  obtained.  I>om  the  W.,  Temiscouata  receives  the 
Cal)ineau  Uiver,  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake  (15  by  2  M.);  and  on  the  E.  is 
the  Tuladi  River,  which  rises  in  the  highlands  of  Rimouski  and  fiowsdown 
through  a  chain  of  secluded  and  rarely  visited  lakelets.  The  cluof  settle- 
ment on  Temiscouata  Lake  is  the  French  Catholic  hamlet  of  Notre  Dame 
du  Lac,  which  was  founded  since  1861  and  has  180  inhabitants.  The  mili- 
tary works  of  Fort  Ingalls  formerly  commanded  the  lake,  and  hud  a  gar- 
rison of  200  men  as  late  as  1850. 

"Temiscouata  Lake  is  a  line  large  sheet  of  Avater,  'JO  'M.  long  ;  it  is 
deep,  contains  plenty  offish,  and  there  are  hills  about  it,  dou  i  Vac  vulkn> 
and  ravines  of  Avhich  rush  winds  which  occasion  sudden  and  'lUif"  n.us 
agitation  in  the  dark  waters." 

The  roail  from  Temiscouata  Lake  to  Riviere  du  Loup  is  40-50  M.  long, 
and  descends  through  a  wild  region  into  which  a  few  settlers  have  {rdviincod 
within  fifteen  years. 


t 


SHEDIAC. 


Route  14.       59 


nj.   It 

Pcttle- 
Is  point 

the  St. 

of  the 
M't'la- 

JUtll  of 

Id  iiows 

108  that 

ts.    The 

in  our 
tly  wido 
Its 
It  Laki'fl 
Ikes  and 


T 


14.   St.  John  to  Shediac. 

DIstnnces.  —  Pt.  John  to  Monrton,  89  M.  ;  Painsec  Junction,  97;  Dorchester 
Itoi^,  102;  Slicdiac,  lOU  ;  Point  du  ChOne,  108. 

St.  JoUn  to  Tainpcc  Junction,  see  Route  16. 

rassengors  for  Slieuiac  and  Point  du  ChC'ne  change  cars  at  Painsec 
Junction,  and  pass  to  tlio  N.  E.  over  a  level  and  unproductive  country. 

Shediat  (Kirk  Hotel)  is  a  marine  vdlage  of  500  inhabitant*,  with  3 
churchci:,  —  Ilaptist,  tlie  Catholic  St.  Josopli  de  Sliediac,  and  St.  Andrew's, 
tlio  hoad  of  a  rural  deanery  of  the  Anglican  church.  The  town  is  well 
situated  on  a  broad  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by  Shediac  Island,  but  its 
commerce  is  inconsiderable,  being  limited  to  a  few  cargoes  of  lumber  and 
deals  sent  annually  to  tJroat  Britain.  The  small  oysters  (  Ostrca  amideims) 
of  the  adjacent  waters  are  also  exported  to  the  provincial  cities.  Shedinc 
was  occupied  I)y  a  French  garri.-.on  in  1750,  to  protect  the  borders  of 
Acadia,  and  in  1757  there  were  2,000  French  and  Acadian  troops  and 
settlors  here.  The  French  element  i..  still  predominant  in  this  vicinity, 
and  its  interesis  are  represented  by  a  weekly  paper  called  "  JLe  Moniteur 
Armfi'en.'" 

Point  du  CUne  (Schurman's  Point  du  Cheno  Ilnuse)  Is  2  M.  N.  E.  of 
Shediac,  and  Is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  railway  and  the  St.  Lawrence  port 
nearest  to  St.  John.  It  has  a  village  of  about  200  inhabitants,  with  long 
piers  reaching  out  to  the  deep-water  channels.  From  this  point  passen- 
gers embark  on  the  steamers  for  Prince  lulward  Island,  the  N.  shore  of 
New  IJrunswick  (see  Route  15),  and  Quebec  and  the  (Julf  Ports.  Daily 
steamers  run  from  Shediac  to  Summerside,  P.  E.  I.,  where  they  mako 
connections  with  the  trains  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Railway  (see  Route  43).  Tho 
Gulf  Ports  steamers  ply  between  Point  du  Cheno  and  Pictou,  the  time  of 
transit  being  about  12  hours,  and  the  route  being  down  the  Xortliumber- 
land  Strait,  with  the  red  shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island  ou  the  1.  In  tho 
time-tables  and  circulars  of  tho  steamships  aiid  railways,  tho  term  Shediac 
h  generally  used  for  Point  du  ClicMie. 


2%^  ]Vrst))wrlnnil  Cnnst.  Tiifrorjucnt  mail-stages  run  E.  from  Shodiao  by  Point 
du  C'hGne  to  Itiirucliois,  8  M.  ;  Todish,17;  (Ircat  Shcnioguo  (.Award's  Hotel),  22; 
and  Little  SiiojuoRUP,  24.  These  settlements  eontain  about  l,50t)  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  Acadians.  Cap'^s  Jonrinnin  (fixed  white  li;^ht,  visible  14  M.)  and  Tor- 
nientine  ar.-  respectively  15  M.  and  20  M.  K.  of  Little  .^ihemogue. 

10  - 12  M.  *) .  of.Shediac  (mail-stage  dally)  arothe  largo  and  i)rosperous  Acadian  settle- 
nientsof  the  Corui^nef  (three  inns),  having  al)Out  l,.')Oil  inhabitants,  seven  eighths  of 
whom  are  of  French  descent.  These  people  are  nearly  all  farmers,  engaged  in  tilling 
the  level  plains  of  Dundas,  although  a  good  harbor  opens  between  the  villages.  21  M. 
from  J^'Lediac  is  Buctotiche  (two  inns),  u  prosperous  Acadian  village  of  4lK)  iuhub- 
itautii,  engaged  iu  ubipbuilOiug  and  iu  th«  uxportatiou  of  lumber  unci  oysters. 


I 


GO       Jiotite  15. 


RICHIBUCTO. 


15.    The  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  North  Shore  of  New 

Brunswick. 

The  vcjmols  of  the  Quebec  and  Oulf  Ports  Steamship  Line,  the  Secret  and  the 
Miramic/ti,  leave  I'ictou  every  Tuesday  morning  at  7  o'elocli,  and  Shcdiac  (Point  du 
Chene)  every  Tuesday  evening  at  7  (after  tlie  arrival  of  the  St.  John  train).  They 
then  aseend  the  coast,  leaving  Chatham  at  7  a,  m.  on  \>  edncsday,  Newcastle  at  8 
A  M.  on  Wednesday,  and  Dalhousie  at  4  a.  .m.  on  Thursday  (for  Quebec)  Returning, 
they  leave  Dalliousie  at  I)  p.m.  on  Thursday,  Chatham  at  4  p.  M.  on  Friday,  New- 
castle at  0  P.M.  on  Friday,  Shediac  at  li  a.m.  on  Saturday  (connecting  with  the 
morning  train  to  St.  Jolui),  and  arrive  at  I'ictou  at  1  p.  m.  on  Saturday  (connecting 
with  the  afternoon  train  to  IFalifax).  These  hours  arc  liable  to  variation  on  account 
of  the  weatlier,  or  if  heavy  freiglits  are  landed  or  taken  at  any  port.  The  CJulf  Ports 
vessels  are  larger  and  more  conunodious  than  Miat  of  the  North  Shore  Line,  but  they 
do  not  visit  llichibucto,  Kathurst,  or  Campbellton.     (Sec  also  Jloute      .) 

The  North  Shore  steamer  Citi/  of  St.  John  leaves  Shediac  (Point  du  Chfine)  every 
Thursday,  on  the  arrival  of  the  morning  train  from  St.  John,  and  calls  at  llichi- 
bucto, Cliatham,  Newcastle,  Bathurst,  Dalhousie,  oni  Campbellton.  Chatham  is 
reached  on  Thursday  evening,  the  Bay-of-Chaleur  ports  on  Friday.  The  steamer 
leaves  the  Ilay-of-Chaleur  ports  on  Monday,  and  tlie  Miramichi  ports  on  Tuesday, 
arriving  at  Shediac  Tuesday  evening,  and  connecting  with  a  late  train  for  St  John. 

Fares  (North  Shore  Line).  —  St.  John  (by  railway  and  steamship)  to  Richibucto, 
S5;  to  Chatliam  and  Newcastle,  $6.50  ;  to  Bathurst,  !iF 9  50  ;  to  Dalhousic,  3510; 
to  Campbellton,  S  10.50. 

DlKtanres  from  Shediac  along  the  N.  shore:  To  Richibucto,  by  sea,  38  M., 
by  land,  34  M. ;  to  Chatham,  by  sea,  80  M.,  by  land,  74  M. :  to  Bathurst,  by  land, 
122  M. ;  to  Dalhousic,  by  sea^  220  M.,  by  land,  175  M.  Daily  mail-stages  run  N.  by 
Cocagne  and  Buctoucho  to  Richibucto,  Chitham,  and  Newcastle. 

TIio  steamship  leaves  the  lon<»  railway  whnrf  at  Point  du  Chenc,  and 
passes  the  low  shores  of  Shediac  Island  on  tlie  1.  The  course  is  laid  well 
out  into  the  Northumberland  Strait.  Between  Shediac  Point  and  Capo 
EfTmont  (on  Prince  Edward  Island)  the  strait  is  nearly  20  M.  wide.  On  tlio 
1.  the  harbors  of  Cocagne  and  Buctouche  (see  page  59)  are  soon  pas.^cd. 
14^  M.  X.  of  Buctouche  are  the  low  clifls  and  lighthouse  of  Richibucio 
Head,  beyond  which  (if  the  weather  permits)  the  steamer  takes  a  more 
westerly  course,  and  enters  the  great  Richibucto  River,  which  empties  its 
stream  through  a  broad  lagoon  enclosed  by  sand-bars. 

Bicbibuoto  {Kent  Hotel)  is  the  ca[)ital  of  Kent  County,  and  occupies  a 
favorable  position  for  commerce  and  shipbuilding,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Richibucto  River.  It  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  3  churclie.«,  and  i; 
engaged  in  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber.  The  river  is  navigable  for 
20  M.,  and  has  been  a  great  highway  for  lumber-vessels,  although  now  tho 
supply  of  the  forests  is  welhiigh  exhausted.  The  rubbish  of  the  sav.- 
mills  has  destroyed  the  once  valuable  fisheries  in  this  river.  In  the  region 
about  Richibucto  arc  many  Acadian  farmers,  and  the  hamlet  of  Aldouiii 
River,  4  M.  from  the  town,  pertains  to  this  people.  Daily  stages  run  from 
Richibucto  to  Shediac  and  to  Chathnm  (see  page  (51).  A  road  leads  S.  ^^  . 
through  the  wilderness  to  tlie  Grand  Lake  district  (Route  10). 

The  name  Richibucto  sigiifies  "  the  River  of  Fire,"  and  the  shores  of  tho  river 
and  bay  were  formerly  inhabited  by  a  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  tiibeof  Iiidiini'. 
So  I'lte  as  ITST,  wlicn  the  American  Loyalist  Powell  settled  here,  tiiere  were  but  four 
Cliri.^tian  f;imiUea(and  ihey  wen-  Ata-lianv)  in  ail  this  region  (the  present  county  of 
Kent).    Tho  power  of  the  Richibuctos  was  broken  in  17U4,  when  all  their  warrior?, 


I 


I 


New 


! 


I 


CHATHAM. 


Route  15.       CI 


I 


1 


under  command  of  Argimooah  ("  the  Groat  Wizard  "),  attacked  Canso  and  captured 
17  Massachusetts  vessels.  Two  well-manned  vessels  of  IJoston  and  Caiw  Ami  were 
sent  after  them,  and  overtook  the  Indian  lieet  on  the  coast.  A  despcrato  naval  battle 
ensued  between  the  Massachusetts  sloop.s  and  the  Indian  prize-ships.  The  Uiclii- 
buetos  fought  with  great  valor,  but  were  finally  disconcerted  by  showers  ot  haud- 
grenad&s  from  tlic  Americans,  and  nearly  every  warrior  was  either  klUed  or  drowned. 
After  emerging  from  l{ichibiicto  harbor,  the  steamer  runs  N.  across  tho 
opening  of  the  shallow  Kouchibouguac  Bay,  whoso  shores  arc  low  sand- 
bars and  beaches  which  enclose  shoal  lagoons.  B  M.  above  Point  Sapin  is 
Escuminnc  Point,  on  which  is  a  powerful  white  light,  visible  for  25  M. 
The  course  is  now  laid  more  to  tho  W.,  across  tho  Miromichi  Bay,  and  on 
the  1.  are  seen  tic  pilots'  village  and  tho  lighthouses  on  Preston's  Beach. 
The  entrance  to  the  Inner  Bay  of  Miramichi  is  between  Fox  Island  and 
Portage  Island,  the  latter  of  which  bears  a  lighthouse.  The  Inner  Bay  is 
13  INI.  long  and  7-8  ^1.  wide,  and  on  tho  S.  is  seen  Vin  Island,  back  of 
which  is  the  Ban  ^"  ^'*»'  '^^^'^  centuries  ago  all  this  shore  was  occupied 
by  French  settlements,  whoso  only  remnant  now  is  the  hamlet  of  Portage 
Road,  in  a  remote  corner  of  the  bay. 

Wlicn  about  9  M.  from  the  entrance,  tho  steamer  passes  between  Point 
Quart  and  Grand  Dune  Island  (on  the  r.),  which  are  Sf,  M.  apart.  3-4 
ISl.  fiu-ther  on,  the  course  is  between  Oak  Point,  with  its  two  lighthouses 
(rn  the  r.),  and  Cheval  Point,  beyond  which  is  the  jjopulous  valley  of  the 
Napan  River,  on  tho  S.  Tho  hamlet  of  Black  Brook  is  visible  on  the  1., 
and  off  Point  Napan  is  Sheldrake  Island,  a  low  and  swampy  land  lying 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  vessel  noAv  enters  the  Miramiolii 
River,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Great  Bartibog,  with  the  beacon- 
lights  on  Malcolm  Point.  The  Miramichi  is  here  a  noble  siream,  fully 
1  M.  wide,  but  floNving  between  low  and  uninteresting  shores. 

Chatham  ( Canada  Hotel;  Bowser's  Hotel)  is  the  chief  town  on  the  North 
Shore,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  3,000,  with  5  churches,  a  weekly 
newspaper,  and  a  Masonic  hall.  It  is  24  M.  from  the  sea,  and  is  built 
along  the  S.  shore  of  the  river  for  a  distance  of  li  M.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill  along  which  the  town  is  built  is  seen  a  great  pile  of  Catholic  in- 
stitutions, among  which  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael,  the  convent  and 
hospital  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  de  Chatham,  and  St.  Michael's  College.  These 
buildings,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  town,  are  of  wood.  The  chief  industries 
of  Chatham  are  shipbuilding  and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber,  and 
the  river  hero  usually  contains  several  large  ships,  which  can  anchor  off 
the  wharves  in  6  -  8  fathoms. 

Daily  stages  run  N.  from  Chatham  to  Bathure*-,  in  45  M.,  over  a  road  which  trav- 
erses one  of  the  dreariest  regions  imaginable.  About  22  M.  beyond  Chatham  it 
cros.ses  the  head-waters  of  the  Tabusintac  River)  "  the  sportsman's  paradise," 
a  narrow  and  shallow  stream  in  which  an  abundance  of  trout  is  found. 

Semi-weekly  stages  run  from  Chatham  N.  E.  to  Oak  Point,  11  M. ;  Burnt  Church, 
20;  Neguac,  25;  Tabusintac,  37 ;  Tracadie,  52;  Pockmouche,  64;  Shippigan,  70; 
and  Caraquette  (Lower),  73.  The  first  30  M.  of  this  j-oad  are  along  (or  near)  the  N. 
shore  of  the  Miramichi  Elver  aud  the  Inner  Bay,  by  tha  hamlets  of  Oak  Poiat  and 
Burnt  Church. 


M 


I  I 


02       7?o«/t'  15. 


THE  MTRAMTCITT. 


Ilnrnt  Church  is  f^tlll  tli(<  ('niiit:il  of  the  Micnmc  TndianR  of  tlio  Provlnpo,  and 
here  they  nathiT  In  (treat  inmihers  on  St.  Aime's  Diiy  and  enpifte  in  religions  riteg 
nnd  athletic  Kjiorts  and  dances,  lion.  Aithnr  (ionlon  nays:  "1  was  Kurpri.'^ed  hy 
tlie  1  uriou.s  re.'ieniljlanee  iietween  these  dances  and  tho.>;eofthe  (ireek  l)ea.«antry. 
Even  tlic  eo,«tnnie.'<  were  in  Konie  (h'^trce  similar,  and  1  notieed  more  tiian  one  short 
colored-silk  jacket  and  handkerchief  hound  hciid  that  carried  mc  hack  to  Ithuca 
nnd  I'axo."    (V.ac.vtion  Tolui.st.s,  iStiy  ) 

Tabusintac  (small  inn)  is  near  the  month  of  the  Tabusintao  lUvcr,  nnd  i.s  a 
Presbyterian  village  of  about  400  Inhabitants,  most  of  wliom  are  entrafred  in  the 
fisheries.  Many  largo  pea-tront  are  caught  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  in 
October  imnicnso  numbers  of  wild  gee.^^^e  aiiul  ducks  are  shot  in  the  adjacent  lagoons. 

Trafadio  is  a  Hcttlement  which  contains  l,'i(  0  French  Acadian.s,  and  is  situated 
near  a  broad  lagoon  which  lies  inside  a  line  of  .sand-bar.^.  S-ilnion,  cod,  and  herring 
arc  found  in  tlie  atljaccnt  waters,  and  most  of  the  jieojile  are  engaged  in  the  fish- 
eries. Tho  Trncadie  Lazaretto  is  devoted  to  the  reception  of  persons  afllicfed  with 
the  lepro.oy,  which  prevails  to  sonic  extent  in  this  district,  but  has  diminished  since 
tho  government  secluded  the  lepers  in  this  remote  liosjiital  There  is  an  old  tradi- 
tion that  tho  Icpro.sy  wa."!  introduced  into  this  region  during  the  last  century,  when 
a  French  vessel  was  wrecked  on  tho  roast,  some  of  whose  s.iilors  were  from  Mar- 
Fcillos  and  had  contracted  the  true  elepliaiitiasis  t^itecoruvi  (Eastern  leprosy)  in  tho 
Levant.  Its  perpetuation  and  hereditary  tmnsmission  is  attributctl  to  the  closeness 
of  tho  relation  in  which  intermarriage  is  sanctioned  among  tho  Acudians  (sometimes 
by  dispensjitions  from  the  Church) 

PockmouLhe  is  a  settlement  of  800  Acadian  farmers,  and  here  tho  mnil-routo 
forks,  —  one  road  running  G  M.  N.  E.  to  Sliippigau  (see  page  04),  the  other  run- 
ning i)  M.  N.  to  liower  Caraquette  (see  ]iage  iWy). 

Daily  stages  run  from  Chatham  to  Shediac  (sec  page  fj9),  also  twice  weekly  to 
Fredericton  and  to  Rathurst.  There  are  two  steamers  weekly  to  Shediac,  and  one  to 
Quebec.  The  river-steam«?r  New  Era  runs  up  the  river  four  times  daily  to  New- 
castle (G  M.),  touching  at  Douglastown,  a  dingy  village  on  the  N.  bank,  wliere  much 
lumber  is  loaded  on  tlio  ships  which  take  it  hence  to  Europe.  This  village  coutuius 
about  400  inhabitants,  and  has  a  marine  hospitai,  built  of  stone. 

Newcastle  (  Waverley  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Northumberland  County, 
nnd  is  situated  at  the  head  of  deop-water  navigation  on  tlie  Miramichi 
River.  It  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding 
and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  luinbcr,  oysters,  and  preserved  lobsters. 
One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  will  be  located  here, 
nnd  a  branch  line  is  to  be  built  to  Chatham. 

A  short  distance  above  Newcastle,  and  beyond  the  Irish  village  of  Nel- 
son, is  tlie  confluence  of  the  great  rivers  known  as  the  N.  W.  Miramichi 
nnd  the  S.  W.  Miramichi.  These  streams  are  crossed  liy  the  largest  and 
most  costly  bridges  on  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  name 
Miramichi  signifies  "Happy  Retreat,"  and  signifies  the  love  that  the  In- 
dians entertained  for  these  fine  hunting  and  fishing  grounds.  The  upper 
■waters  of  the  rivers  traverse  wide  districts  of  unsettled  country,  and  are 
visited  by  hardy  and  adventurous  sportsmen,  who  capture  large  numbers 
of  trout  and  salmon.  This  system  of  waters  is  connected  by  portages  with 
the  Nepisiguit,  tho  R^.  tigouche,  the  Upsalquitch,  the  Tobique,  and  the 
Nashwaak  Rivers.  The  best  salmon-pools  are  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
beyond  Boiestown,  at  the  mouths  of  the  Salmon,  Rocky,  Clearwater,  and 
Burnt  Hill  Brooks.  A  tri-weekly  stage  runs  from  Newcastle  to  Boies- 
town  and  Fredericton  (sec  page  4G),  traversing  105  M.  of  a  rude  and 
sparsely  settled  country. 


J 


>a» 


j«i 


1 


BIIIPPIGAN  ISLAND. 


Route  15.      03 


rovlnco,  and 

•lijrioiiM  rites 
Kiupiisrd  l)y 
k  iiciiJ-uiitry. 

Ill  one  Rhdit 
L'k  to  Ithuca 

ivcr,  nntl  is  a 
rii^'c'il  in  tiio 
ivcr,  and  in 
cut  liiKODiis. 
id  is  situuti  d 
and  iiorriiif; 
I  ill  tlie  fisii> 
iHIictcd  with 
iiislu'd  siiico 
an  old  tradi- 
ntury,  when 
e  from  Mar- 
prosy)  in  tho 
tlio  closeness 
8  (sometimes 

c  mnil-routo 
e  other  run- 

cc  weekly  to 
r",  and  one  to 
laily  to  New- 
wliere  much 
lage  cuutuiuf* 


nd  County, 
Miramichi 
upbuilding 
;d  lobsters, 
cated  here, 

fipje  of  Xcl- 
Miramiclii 
largest  and 
The  name 
hat  the  In- 
Thc  upper 
"v,  and  are 
;e  numbers 
rtages  with 
e,  and  the 
Miramichi, 
water,  and 
to  Boies- 
rude  and 


1 


Benubair^s  hlmvl  is  o(T  upper  XclHon,  and  was  formerly  occupied  by  a  prosporous 
French  town,  but  few  relics  of  which  are  now  to  be  seen.  It  was  destroye<l  l>y  a 
]tritish  naval  attack  in  17")'.).  A  colony  was  planted  liere  in  1722,  under  Cardinal 
Fleury's  administration,  and  was  provided  with  200  houses,  a  cliurcli,  and  a  l(J  gun 
battery. 

In  1(342-44  tho  Miramichi  district  was  occupied  by  .Tean  Jaquea  Knaud,  a  Dascjuo 
gentlenian,  who  founded  tradinpc-posts  on  the  islands  and  entered  also  ujion  tho 
walrus  iisheries.  but  a  contention  soon  arose  lietween  Knaud's  men  and  tho  In- 
dians, by  rea.son  of  which  the  Hasciiie  establishments  were  ilestroycd,  and  their  peo- 
/•le  were  forced  to  floo  to  Nepislguit.  In  lt)72,  after  the  Treaty  of  Urod;!,  several 
families  from  St.  Alalo  landed  on  this  coast  and  founded  a  villajfe  at  l{;i>  du  Vin. 
From  1740  to  1757  a  Jlourishinj;  trade  was  carried  on  between  the  Miramichi  country 
and  France,  great  quantities  of  furs  being  exported.  Hut  the  crops  failed  in  175(, 
and  tho  relief-ships  from  Franco  were  captured  by  the  British.  In  the  winter  of 
1758  the  transport  ///n^/iV?i/ie,  of  Morlaix,  was  wrecked  in  the  bay,  and  the  dis- 
fieartened  tolniiists,  fimished  and  iH-stilence-stricken,  were  rai)idly  dejiletcd  by 
death.  Many  of  tho  French  settlers  died  during  the  winter,  and  were  buried  on 
lieaubair's  Point.  Those  who  survived  lied  from  the  scene  of  such  bitter  sulTerIng, 
and  by  tho  arrival  of  spring  there  wero  not  threescore  inhabitants  about  the  bay. 

In  1759  a  Hritish  war-vessel  entered  tho  bay  for  wood  and  water,  and  the  first 
boat's-crew  which  landed  was  cut  olfand  exterminated  by  tho  Indians.  The  frigate 
bombarded  tho  French  Fort  batteries,  and  annihilated  the  town  at  Canadian  Cove. 
Then  sailing  to  the  N.  K.,  the  commander  landed  a  force  at  Neguac,  and  burnt  tho 
Catholic  chapel,  the  inhabitants  having  fled  to  tho  woods.  Neguac  is  known  to  this 
day  only  by  the  nnnio  of  IJiirnt  (Church.  After  this  fierce  foray  all  tho  N.  coast  of 
New  Brunswick  was  deserteil  and  relapsed  into  a  wilderness  state. 

In  1775  there  was  an  insignificant  Scotch  trading-post  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
where  1,5*00-1,800  tierces  of  .salmon  were  caught  annually.  This  was  once  surprised 
and  plundered  by  tho  Indians  in  sympathy  with  tho  Americans,  but  in  1777  tho 
river  was  visited  by  the  slooi)-of-war  Viper  and  the  captured  American  j)riviitver 
La/ai/ette.  The  Amerii-an  flag  was  disi)layed  on  the  latter  vessel,  and  it  was  given 
out  tiiat  her  crew  were  Bostoiiians,  by  which  means  35  Indians  <"rom  the  great  coun- 
cil at  Hartibog  were  dc<'oyeil  on  board  and  carried  captive  to  Queljcc. 

In  1780  the  Scottish  settlers  opened  large  saw-mills  on  the  N.  W.  Miramichi,  and 
Boveral  families  of  American  Loyalists  settled  along  the  shore.  Vast  nunibc^rs  of 
masts  and  spars  wero  sent  hence  to  the  British  dock-yards,  and  the  growth  of  tho 
Miramichi  was  rapid  and  satisfactory.  In  l~Wi  the  Indians  of  tho  hills  gathered 
secretly  and  concerted  plans  to  exterminate  the  settlers  (who  had  mcistly  t^iken 
refuge  in  Chatham),  but  tho  danger  was  averted  by  the  interposition  of  the  Frcncli 
Catholic  priests,  who  caused  the  Indians  to  dispense. 

In  October,  1825,  this  district  was  desolated  by  tho  groat  Miramichi  Fire,  vrhich 
swept  over  3,000,000  acres  of  forest,  and  destroyed  ,S  1.00(),()00  worth  of  proiK>rtj  and 
160  human  lives.  The  town  of  Newcastle  was  laid  in  tushes,  and  all  the  lower  Mi- 
ramichi Valley  became  a  blackened  wilderness.  The  only  escape  for  life  was  by 
rushing  into  the  rivers  while  the  storm  of  fire  passed  overhead ;  and  here,  nearly 
covered  by  tho  hi.ssing  wat(^rs,  wero  men  and  women,  the  wild  animals  of  the  woods, 
and  the  domestic  beasts  of  tho  farm. 

On  leaving  the  Miramichi  Kivcr  and  Bay  tlie  vessel  .steams  out  into  tho 
Guir,  leaving  on  the  N.  \V.  the  low  shores  of  Tabusintac  and  Tnicadie,  in- 
dented by  wide  and  shallow  lagoons  (sec  page  62).  After  running  about 
35  M.  the  low  red  clin's  of  Shippigan  Island  are  seen  on  the  W.  This 
island  is  12  M.  long  by  8  M.  wide,  and  is  inhabited  by  Acadian  fi.shcrmen. 
On  the  S.  W.  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Alexander  Point,  on  Alcmek  Bay, 
opposite  the  populous  village  and  magnificent  harbor  of  Shippigan.  Thero 
are  valuabro  fisheries  of  herring,  cod,  and  mackerel  off  tiiesc  shores,  and 
the  deep  triple  harbor  is  well  sheltered  by  the  islands  of  Shippigan  and 
Pocksuedie,  forming  a  secure  haven  of  refuge  for  tho  American  and  Cana- 
dian fleets. 


G4      JioHte  15. 


BAY  OF  CIIALEUR. 


SliippiKnn  Harbor,  thoiiKl>  Ptill  piirroundocl  by  forests,  hns  opcupied  a  prom- 
inent iiliK  i>  in  th<'  ralctiliitions  of  conuniTcc  luid  travel.  It  has  been  proposfil  that 
the  Intercolonial  Hi.ilwiiy  hIiiiH  eotineet  here  with  n.  tmnHiitluntie  steamship  line, 
thus  ^vitllll^l^vill^;a  lar;.re  portion  of  the  summer  travel  from  Halifax  and  New  York. 
Tlic  distance  from  Sliippican  to  Ijivcrpool  by  the  Straits  of  Helleislc  is  148  M.  less 
than  the  distance  from  llulifux  to  Liverpool,  and  Shlppigau  ia  271  M.  nearer  Montreal 
thun  is  Halifax. 

The  OcJMiii  Ferry.  —  The  following  plan  is  infteniously  elaborated  and  pow- 
erfully  sujJporU'd,  and  is  perhaps  destined  to  reduee  the  transatlantic  pojisap'  to 
lot)  hours.  It  is  to  be  carried  out  with  stron^',  swift  express  steamers  on  the  Ocean 
iind  the  (Julf,  and  throiiph  trains  on  the  railways.  The  itinerary  is  as  follows : 
London  to  Valentia,  C40  M.,  10  hours  ;  Valentin  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  1,640  M.,  1<)0 
hours ;  St.  .lohn's  to  St.  (Jeor^e's  Hay  (across  Newfoundland  by  railway),  260  M., 
84  hours;  St.  (ieorne's  Hay  to  Ship])i(:an  (across  the  OulO,  260  M.,  15.i  hours; 
Sliippipiu  to  New  York,  ItoiJ  M.,  31  hours  ;  London  to  New  York,  171  hours,  or  7j 
days.  It  is  claimed  that  this  route  would  esca|Kj  the  dangers  betwc>en  Cape  Race 
and  New  York  :  would  (xivo  usually  quiet  i>as.sapcs  across  the  Gulf;  would  diversify 
the  monotony  of  the  long  voyage  by  thn'c  transfers,  and  would  save  4-G  days  on 
the  re< orded  avcraffes  of  the  steamships  between  New  York  and  Liverpool  (si'c  maps 
and  details  in  Sundford  Fleming's  "  Intercolonial  Railway  Survey''). 

Tlie  steamer  now  crosses  the  ^liscou  Banks,  nnd  approaches  Miscou 
Island,  wliicli  is  20  M.  in  circumference  and  contains  about  300  inhab- 
itants. On  its  S.  sliorc  is  a  fine  and  spacious  harbor,  wliich  is  much  used 
as  a  place  of  refuge  in  stormy  weather  by  the  American  fishing-fleets. 

Settlements  were  formed  here  early  in  the  17th  century  by  the  French,  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  the  walrus,  or  sea-cow.  Such  an  exterminating  war  was  waged 
upon  this  valuable  aquatic  animal  that  it  soon  became  extinct  in  the  Gulf,  and  was 
followed  into  the  Arctic  Zone.  Witliin  five  years  a  few  walruses  have  been  seen  in 
the  Gulf,  and  it  is  hoped  that  they  may  once  more  enter  these  waters  in  droves.  At 
an  early  date  the  .lesuits  established  the  mission  of  St.  Charles  do  Miscou,  but  the 
priests  were  soon  killed  by  the  climate,  and  no  impression  had  been  made  on  the 
Indians.  It  is  claimed  that  'lere  may  still  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  post  of  the  Royal 
Comjiany  of  Mi.^con,  which  was  founded  in  1(535  for  the  pursuit  offish  and  walruses, 
and  for  a  time  derived  a  great  revenue  from  this  district.  Fortifications  were  also 
erected  here  by  M.  Denys,  Sieur  do  Fronsac. 

The  steamer  alters  her  course  gradually  to  the  W.  and  passes  the 
fixed  red  light  on  Birch  Point,  and  Point  Miscou,  with  its  high  green 
knoll.  Between  Point  Miscou  and  Cape  Despair,  26  M.  N.,  is  the  en- 
trance to  tlio  Bay  of  Chaleur. 


I 


I'; 


The  Bay  of  Chaleur  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of  EcTcetuam, 
Netnnache,  signifying  "a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  that  name  is  still  applicable, 
since  the  bay  contains  every  variety  of  fish  known  on  these  coasts.  It  is 
90  M.  long  and  from  10  to  26  M.  wide,  and  is  nearly  free  from  shoals  or 
dangerous  i-eefs.  The  waters  are  comp.ratively  tranquil,  and  the  air  is 
clear  and  bracing  and  usually  free  from  fog,  affording  a  marked  contrast 
to  the  climate  of  the  adjacent  Gulf  coasts.  The  tides  are  regular  and  have 
but  little  velocity.  The  length  of  the  bay,  from  Point  Miscou  to  Camp- 
bellton,  is  about  110  M.  These  waters  are  visited  every  year  by  great 
American  fleets,  manned  by  the  hardy  seamen  of  Cape  Cod  and  Glouces- 
ter, and  valuable  cargoes  of  fish  are  usually  carried  back  to  the  Massa- 
chusetts ports. 


BATIIUUST. 


Jloitte  15.       65 


ed  a  prom- 
jposfil  tlmt 
usliii)  lino, 
Now  York. 
148  »1.  loss 
T  Montreal 

!(!  and  pow- 
pn>!sa}ri'  to 
n  the  Ocfun 
ns  followH : 
,640  M.,  100 
ly),  250  M., 
154  hourd ; 
lours,  or  7} 
II  Cape  Race 
lUl  diversify 
-0  days  on 
ol  (8«.'c  maps 


cs  Hiscou 

300  inhab- 
much  used 
^  fleets. 

;nch,  for  tho 
ar  was  waged 
Julf,  and  was 
been  seen  in 
n  dri>ves.  At 
scou,  but  the 
made  on  the 
t  of  tlic  Royal 
and  walruses, 
ions  were  also 

passes  the 

high  green 

.,  is  the  en- 


of  Ecketuan. 
1  applicable, 
joasts.    It  is 
:om  shoals  or 
nd  the  air  is 
rked  contrast 
ilar  and  have 
cou  to  Camp- 
ear  by  great 
and  Giouces- 
:o  the  Massa- 


Tliis  bay  wni»  diacoyercd  by  Jaques  Cartler  in  tho  snnimcr  of  VuVt,  and,  from  the 
fact  tiiiit  Hie  heated  season  was  at  its  hci^Mit  at  that  time,  he  nainrd  it  hi  Rtif  des 
Ckalfurs  (tho  Hay  of  Heats).  On  the  cariii'st  niaii-"  it  is  also  eallcd  l.a  Hair  de» 
ns/iriaiiols,  iiiiiicatiu;?  that  it  was  freijiiented  by  ."Spanish  vcsn  1-,  probably  fr.  the 
imiposes  of  lishinK- 

in  these  waters  is  located  tho  seonc  of  the  old  loffond  of  tho  Mas.s/iehusotts  coast, 
relirtive  to  Skipper  Irt  ^ous  misdeed,  which,  with  tho  record  of  Its  punishmuat,  haa 
lieen  counnenioruted  in  the  poetry  of  W'hlttler:  — 


'  Small  pity  for  him  I  —  lie  ioiled  away 
Kroin  11  lenkinn  ship  in  ChaliMir  Huy,  — 
Sailed  awiiy  from  a  oiiikhia  wrci'k, 
With  Ills  own  town's-pcople  on  her  deck  I 
'  l^ny  by  !  Iiiy  by  : '  they  ettlU'd  to  him  ; 
UncK  be  answered, '  Sink  or  swim  ! 
iir  catch  of  liiiii  iiRaiii ! ' 
'  nailed  through  the  ina  and  rain. 


liras  of  your  catcit  of  liiiii  ngixin  ! ' 
And  citt'lie  nailed  through  the  loc  i 
Old  i'Moyd  Iresoii,  for  his  hanl  lieurt 


Tarred  imd  feathered  and  eiiriicd  in  a  cart 
liy  tho  women  ut'  Marblcheud. 


"  FathoniB  deep  in  dark  Chalcur 
That  wreck  gliuU  lie  lorevennore. 
Mother  and  Binter,  wile  and  maid, 
I-Dokcd  from  the  rock*  of  .Marl)lelipad 
(tver  the  moaning  ""d  rainy  nea,— 
Looked  for  tho  eoining  that  ndplit  not  be  I 
What  did  till'  wind))  and  the  uea-birdM  fiiiy 
Of  the  cruel  captain  who  nailed  away  'f  — 
Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  his  bard  heart, 
Tarred  and  fe:itbered  and  carrii'd  in  u  cart 
By  tliR  women  of  Marbluhcud." 


When  well  within  tho  bay  the  ste.amcr  assnmca  a  course  nearly  S.  \V., 
leaving  MIscou  and  SI  ippigan  Islniids  astern.  The  l)road  Cctraquette  Bay 
is  on  tho  S.,  anu  the  Now-l'.iindon  shores  (see  page  CO)  aro  followed  into 
Nej)isigult  Hay.  Tlie  liarbor  of  Hatliurst  is  entered  by  a  strait  two  cable!} 
wide,  between  Alston  Toint  and  Carron  Toint,  on  the  former  of  which 
there  are  red  and  white  beaoon-liglits. 

Bathurst  ( Z?rf  J/  Vkw  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Gloucester  County,  and  has 
about  600  inhabitants.  It  is  favorably  situated  on  a  peninsula  in  the  har- 
bor, 2i  M.  from  tlie  bay,  and  is  connected  by  a  bridge  with  tho  village  of 
St.  Peter'-s.  Large  quantities  of  fish  aro  sent  hence  to  the  American  cities 
during  the  summer;  and  tlie  exportation  of  frozen  salmon  has  become  an 
important  business.  Tlie  Intercolonial  Railway  has  a  station  near  Bathurst, 
■which  will  probably  bo  one  of  its  chief  ports  on  tliis  bay.  The  beautiful 
liasin  of  Uatliurst  receives  the  waters  of  four  rivers,  and  its  shores  are 
already  well  populated  by  farmers. 

The  Basin  of  Bathurst  was  called  by  tho  Indians  Whiknpimuwlck,  or  Nepisiguit, 
signifying  tho  "  Foaming  Waters."  It  was  occulted  in  ltj38  by  M.  Enaud,  a  wealthy 
Basfiue  gentleman,  and  his  retainers,  forming  a  tov  n  ciilled  St.  Pierre.  £naud  mar^ 
rled  a  Mohawk  i)rinces8,  founded  mills,  and  established  an  extensive  fur-trade,  erect- 
ing a  commodious  man.sion  at  Abshaboo  (Coal  I*oint),at  the  month  of  the  Xepl.siguit. 
But  some  fmiily  troubles  cnsuwd,  and  Madame  Enaud's  brother  slew  her  husband, 
after  which  tho  French  settlements  wore  plundered  by  the  Indians,  and  such  of  the 
inhahitiints  as  could  not  escape  by  way  of  the  sea  were  massacred. 

By  1670  tho  Chaleur  shores  were  again  studded  with  French  hamlets,  and  occu- 
pied by  an  industrious  farming  population.  In  1092  tho  Micmacs  confederated 
against  them,  and,  undor  tho  command  of  the  sagamore  ilalion,  completely  devas- 
tjited  the  wliole  district  and  compelled  the  settlers  to  Hy  to  Canada.  Thenceforward 
for  74  years  this  country  was  unvisited  by  Europeans.  In  1764  a  Seotch  trading- 
post  and  fort  was  erected  at  Alston  Point,  on  the  N.  shore  of  Bathurst  harbor,  and 
thence  were  exported  great  quantities  of  furs,  moose-skins,  walrus  hides  and  tusks, 
and  salmon.  In  1776  this  flourishing  settlement  was  destroyed  by  American  priva- 
teers, which  al.so  deva.stated  the  other  shpres  of  Chaleur.  The  present  town  was 
founded  in  1818  by  Sir  Uowt^i'd  Qouglas,  and  w^  uauicd  ia  honor  of  the  Earl  of 
Bathurst. 

The  Nepisigult  Biver  empties  into  Bathurst  harbor,  and  is  famous  for 
its  fine  fishing  (it  is  now  leased).     A  road  ascends  the  W.  bank  for  about 


^ 

A^.. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^/       A^ 


1.0 


1.1 


Uit2A    |25 

m 

^   LS.    12.0 

u 


■  22 


|iJ5  1 1.4   1 1.6 


6" 


7] 


^^ 


.•V* 


V   ^ 


o^. 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  Wf  T  MAIN  STRir 

WIBSTH,N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  •72-4903 


■^ 


^ 


i 


1;.     , 


i 

'  1' 

i 

!     ■ 
J 

<i      ; 


C6      Route  15. 


CARAQUETTE. 


35  M.,  passing  the  Rough  "Waters,  ';he  brilliant  rapids  of  thePabineau  Falls 
(9  M.  up),  the  dark  pools  of  the  Betaboc  reach,  the  Chain  of  Rocks,  and 
the  Narrows.  The  *  Grand  Tails  of  the  Ncpisiguit  are  20  M.  above 
Bathurst,  and  consist  of  4  distinct  and  step-like  cliffs,  with  a  total  height 
of  140  ft.  They  are  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows,  where  the  river  flows  for 
8  -  4  M.  through  a  cafion  between  high  cliffs  of  slaty  rock.  The  river  boldly 
lakes  the  leap  over  this  Titanic  stairway,  and  the  ensuing  roar  is  deafen- 
ing, while  the  base  of  the  cliff  is  shrouded  in  white  spray.  From  the  pro- 
found depths  at  the  foot  the  river  whirls  away  in  a  black  and  foam-flecked 
course  for  2  M.  The  descent  of  timber  over  the  Falls  affords  an  exciting 
spectacle,  and  the  logs  arc  sometimes  shot  out  clear  beyond  the  lower 
terraces  and  alight  in  the  pool  below. 

"Good  by,  lovely  Nepisjguit,  stream  pf  the  beautiful  pools,  the  fishermin's 
elysium;  ferewell  to  thy  merry,  noisy  current,  thy  long  quiet  stretches,  thy  high 
bluffs,  thj  wooded  and  thy  rocky  shores.  Long  may  thy  music  lull  the  innocent 
angler  into  day-dreams  of  happiness.  Long  may  thy  romantic  scenery  charm  the 
eye  and  gladden  the  heart  of  the  artist,  and  welcome  the  angler  to  a  happy  sylvan 
home."    (Roosevelt.) 

Tho  ♦  Grand  Falls  of  the  Tete-i-gouche  River  are  about  8  M.  W.  of  Bathurst,  and 
may  be  visited  by  carriage.  The  river  here  falls  about  30  ft.,  amid  a  wild  confusion 
of  rocks  and  clifils. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  E.  from  Bathurst  to  Salmon  Beach,  8  M. ;  James- 
ville,  12  J  Clifton,  15;  New  Bandon,  20;  Pockshaw,  23;  Grand  Anse,  28; 
Upper  Caraquette,  86;  Lower  Caraquette,  43;  Shlppigan,  60.  Fare  to 
Caraquc*tc,  ^  3.50.  This  road  follows  the  shores  of  the  Nepisiguit  Bay  and 
the  Bay  of  Chaleur  for  nearly  30  M.  The  hamlets  of  Clifton  (small  inn) 
and  New  Bartdon  were  settled  by  Irish  immigrants,  and  are  now  engaged 
in  making  grindstones.  Pockshaw  has  an  inn  and  about  600  inhabitants. 
Grand  Anse  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  who  are 
engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Thence  the  road  runs  8  M.  S.  E.  to  Upper 
Caraquette,  where  there  are  about  600  Acadians.  Lower  Caraquette  (two 
inns)  is  a  French  village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  strong, 
swift  boats  and  skilful  mariners. 

Caraquette  was  founded  in  1768  by  a  colony  of  Bretons,  and  owed  a  part  of  its 
early  growth  to  intermarriages  with  the  Micmacs.  It  is  a  long  street  of  farms  in  tho 
old  Acadian  style,  and  is  situated  in  a  fruitful  and  well-cultivated  country.  Tho 
view  from  the  hilla  over  the  village,  and  especially  from  the  still  venerated  spot 
where  the  old  chapel  stood,  is  very  pleasant,  and  includes  Miscou  and  Shippigan, 
the  Oaspe  ports,  and  the  bold  Quebec  shores.  The  Jersey  house  of  Robin  &  Co. 
has  one  of  its  fishing-establishments  here,  and  does  a  large  business. 

Caraquette  is  one  of  the  chief  stations  of  tho  N.  shore  fisheries.  In  the  year  1873 
the  fish  product  of  the  three  lower  Maritime  Provinces  amounted  to  the  value  of 
39,060,342.  Nova  Scotia  caught  $6,r)77,086  worth  of  fish;  and  New  Brunswick 
caught  S  2,285,660  worth,  of  which  $  527,312  were  of  salmon,  $500,306  of  herriug, 
» 346,925  of  lobsters,  §338,699  of  codfish,  $108,514  of  alewives,  $90,065  of  hake, 
$  64,396  of  pollock,  $  45,480  of  oysters,  $  41,851  of  smelt,  and  $  35,477  of  mackerel. 

Daily  stages  run  S.  from  Bathurst  to  Chatham  (see  page  61).  Tri-weekly  stages 
follow  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to  tho  N.  W.  to  Medisco ;  Rochette,  12  M. ; 
Belledune,  20;  Belledune  River,  24;  Armstrong's  Brook,  28;  River  liouison,  33; 
Now  Mills,  38;  River  Charlo,  44;  and  Dalhousic,  52.  Modisco  and  Roohette  are 
French  villages ;  the  others  are  of  British  origin,  and  none  of  thciu  have  as  many 


I 


DALHOUSIE. 


Route  15.      67 


)ineau  Falls 
Rocks,  and 
1)  M.  above 
total  height 
rer  flows  for 
river  boldly 
r  is  deafen- 
•om  the  pro- 
bam-flecked 
an  exciting 
id  the  lower 


le  fishennin'fl 
hes,  thy  high 
I  the  innocent 
ei  V  charm  the 
happy  sylvan 

'Bathurst,  and 
wild  confusion 


8  M. ;  James- 
md  Anse,  28; 

60.  Fare  to 
iguit  Bay  and 
n  (small  inn) 

now  engaged 
)  inhabitants, 
ants,  who  are 
S.  E.  to  Upper 
iraquette  (two 
for  its  strong, 


ed  a  part  of  its 
t  of  farms  in  tlic 
I  country.  The 
I  venerated  spot 
and  Shippigan, 
of  Robin  &  Co. 


[n  the  year  1873 
to  the  value  of 
New  Brunswick 
),306  of  herri-ig, 
i  90,065  of  hake, 
177  of  mackerel. 
Dri-weekly  stages 
Rochette,  12  M. ; 
ver  liouison,  33; 
,nd  Rochette  are 
iia  have  as  many 


as  500  inhabitants.  Many  small  streams  enter  the  bay  from  this  coast,  and  tho 
whole  district  is  famous  for  its  fishing  and  hunting  (water-fowl).  The  line  of  this 
shore  is  followed  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

Off  Bathurst  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  is  over  25  M.  wide,  and  the  steamer 
passes  out  and  takes  a  course  to  the  N.  W.,  pfissing  the  hamlet  of  Rochette, 
and  soon  rounding  Bellodune  Point.  The  imposing  highlands  of  the  Gas- 
pesian  peninsula  are  seen  on  the  N.  with  the  peak  of  Tracadiegash.  The 
passage  between  Tracadiegash  Point  and  Heron  Island  is  about  7  M.  wide ; 
and  6-8  M.  beyond  the  steamer  passes  Maguacha  Point  (Maguacha,  In- 
dian for  "Always  Red")  on  tho  r.,  and  enters  the  Restigouche  Harbor. 

"  To  the  person  approaching  by  steamer  from  the  sea,  is  presented  one  of  the 
most  superb  and  fascinating  panoramic  views  in  Canada.  Th'^  vhole  region  ia 
mountainous,  and  almost  precipitous  enough  to  be  alpine;  but  its  grandeur  is 
derived  less  from  cliffs,  chasms,  and  peaks,  than  from  far-reaching  sweeps  of  out- 
line, and  continually  rising  domes  that  mingle  with  the  clouds.  On  the  Gasp6 
Bide  precipitous  cliffs  of  brick-red  sandstone  flank  the  shore,  so  lofty  that  they 
seem  to  cast  their  gloomy  shadows  half-way  a«  ross  the  Bay,  and  yawning  with 
rifts  and  gullies,  through  which  fretful  torrents  tumble  into  the  sea.  Behind 
them  the  mountains  rise  and  fall  in  loni?  undulations  of  ultramarine,  and,  tow- 
ering above  tbem  all,  is  the  famous  peak  of  Tracadiegash  flashing  in  the  sunlight 
like  a  pale  blue  amethyst."    (Hallock.) 

Dalhousie  {Eraser's  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  long  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  and  is  the  capital  of 
Restigouche  County.  It  faces  on  the  harbor  from  three  sides,  and  has 
great  facilities  for  commerce  and  for  handling  lumber.  The  manufacture 
and  exportation  of  lumber  are  here  carried  oa  on  a  large  scale ;  and  the 
to\vn  is  also  famous  for  its  shipments  of  lobsters  and  salmon.  The  salmon 
fisheries  in  this  vicinity  are  of  great  value  and  productiveness.  The  line 
of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  about  4  M.  S.  of  Dalhousie.  The  site  of 
this  port  was  called  Sickadomec  by  the  Indians.  50  years  ago  there  were 
but  two  log-houses  here,  but  the  district  was  soon  occupied  by  hardy 
Highlanders  from  Arran,  whose  new  port  and  metropolis  was  "located  in 
an  alpine  wilderness."  Directly  back  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Dalhousie, 
and  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  high  shores  of  Dalhousie  Island.  Bo- 
nami  Point  is  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  fixed  white  light; 
and  Fleurant  Point  is  opposite  the  town,  across  the  estuary. 

"  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  preserves  a  river-like  character  for  some  distance  from  the 
point  where  the  river  may  strictly  be  said  to  terminate,  and  certainly  offers  tho 

most  beautiful  scenery  to  be  seen  in  the  Province From  Mr.  Eraser's  to  the 

sea,  a  distance  of  some  20  M.  by  water,  or  14  by  land,  the  course  of  tho  river  is 
really  beautiful.  Swollen  to  dimensions  of  majestic  breadth,  it  flows  calmly  on, 
among  picturcsqu:  and  lofty  hills,  undisturbed  by  rapids,  and  studded  with  in- 
numerable islands  covered  with  the  richest  growth  of  elm  and  maple The 

whole  of  the  distance  from  Camybellton  to  Dalhousie,  a  drive  of  20  M.  along  the  coast 
cf  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  on  an  excellent  high-road,  presents  a  succession  of  beautiful 
views  across  the  narrow  bay,  in  which  Tracadiegash,  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Gasp6 
mountains,  always  forms  a  conspicuous  object,  jutting  forward  as  it  does  into  tho 
sea  opposite  Dalhousie."    (Hon.  Arthur  Gordon.) 

"  Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  approach  to  the  estuary  of 
the  Restigouche.  The  pointed  hills  in  the  background,  the  deep  green  forest  with 
its  patches  of  cultivation,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  distant  mouatains,  form  a  pic- 
ture of  thn  most  exq,uisite  kind."    (Sir  R.  Bonntcas vle.  ) 


ii 


II 11 


'I? 


1 1 


1; 

1            ' 

1 

1l 

68     -RoM^e  i5. 


"CAMPBELLTON. 


"The  expanse  of  three  mi'es  across  the  irouth  of  the  Restigouche,  the  dreamy 
alpine  land  beyond,  and  the  broad  plain  of  the  Bay  of  Chalour,  present  one  of  the 
most  splendid  and  fascinating  panoramic  prospects  to  be  found  on  the  continent  of 
America,  and  has  alone  rewarded  us  for  the  pilgrimage  we  have  made."  (Charles 
Lanman.) 

The  estuary  of  the  Restigoiiche  is  2-4  M.  wide,  and  extends  from  Dal- 
housie  to  Campbellton,  about  16  M.  Point  a  la  Garde  is  9  M.  above  Dal- 
housie  on  the  N.  shore,  and  is  a  bold  perpendicular  promontory  overlooking 
the  harbor.  On  this  and  Battery  Point  (the  next  to  the  W. )  were  the 
extensive  French  fortifications  which  were  destroyed  by  Admiral  Byron's 
British  squadron  'a  1780.  Several  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  relics  have 
been  obtained  from  the  water  oft"  these  points.  Battery  Point  is  a  rocky 
promontory  80  ft.  high,  with  u  plain  on  the  top,  and  a  deep  channel  around 
its  shores.  Point  Pleasant  is  4  M.  distant,  and  1  M.  back  is  a  spiral  mass 
of  granite  700  ft.  high,  which  is  accessible  by  natural  steps  on  the  E.  1.^ 
M.  from  this  peak  is  a  pretty  forest-lake,  in  which  red  trout  are  abundant. 
5  M.  N.  of  Point  a  la  Garde  is  the  main  peak  of  the  Scaumenac  Mts.,  which 
attains  an  altitude  of  1,745  ft. 

Campbellton  (three  hotels)  is  situated  in  a  diversified  region  of  hills  at 
the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  on  the  Restigouc.o,  which  is  here  1  M. 
wide.  It  has  about  600  inhabitants  and  deals  chiefly  in  the  exportation 
of  lumber  and  fish.  One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
is  located  here.  The  adjacent  country  is  highly  picturesque,  and  is  studded 
with  conical  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  Sugar  Loaf,  800  ft.  high. 

Mission  Point  is  nearly  opposite  Campbellton,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine 
hill-scenery,  which  has  been  likened  to  that  of  Wales,  The  river  is  rapid 
ofl"  these  shores,  and  abounds  in  salmon.  This  place  is  also  known  as 
Point-a-la-Croix,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  villages  and  reservations  of  the 
Micmac  Indians.    It  has  about  500  inhabitants,  with  a  Catholic  church. 

The  Micmac  language  is  said  to  be  a  dialect  of  the  Huron  tongue ;  vrhile  the  Miii* 
cetes,  on  the  St.  John  River,  speak  a  dialect  of  Delaware  origin.  These  two  tribes 
have  an  annual  council  at  Mission  Point,  at  which  delegates  from  the  Penobscot 
Indians  are  in  attendance.  The  Micmac  nation  occupies  the  waste  places  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces,  from  Newfoundland  to  Gasp^,  and  numbers  over  6,000  souls. 
These  Indians  are  daring  and  tireless  hunters  and  fishermen,  and  lead  a  life  of  con- 
ftant  roving,  gathering  annually  at  the  local  capitals, — Chapel  Island,  in  Cape 
IJreton ;  Ponhook  Lake,  in  Nova  Scotia  ;  and  Mission  Point,  in  Quebec.  They  are 
increasing  steadily  in  numbers,  and  are  becoming  more  valuable  members  of  the 
Canadian  nation.  They  have  hardly  yet  recovered  from  the  terrible  defeat  which 
was  inflicted  on  them  by  an  invading  army  of  Mohawks,  in  1639.  The  flower  of  the 
Maritime  tribes  hastened  to  the  border  to  repel  the  enemy,  but  they  were  met  by 
the  Mohawks  in  the  llestigouche  country,  and  were  annihilated  on  the  field  of 
battle. 

The  chief  of  the  Micmacs  at  Mission  Point  visited  Queen  Victoria  in  1850,  and  was 
kindly  welcomed  and  received  many  presents.  When  Lord  Aylmer,  Governor-Gen- 
eral of  Canada,  vL-itcd  Gaj"p6,  he  was  waited  on  by  500  Indians,  whose  chief  made 
liim  a  long  harangue.  But  the  tribe  had  recently  recovered  from  a  wreck  (anong 
other  things)  a  box  of  decanter-labels,  marked  Rum,  Brandt,  Gin,  etc.,  and  the  noble 
chief,  not  knowing  their  purport,  had  adotned  his  ears  and  nose  with  them,  and 
eurroundcd  his  head  with  a  crown  of  the  same  materials.  AVhen  the  British  officers 
recognized  the  familiar  names,  they  burst  into  such  a  peal  of  laughter  as  drove  the 
astonished  and  incensed  chief  from  their  presence  forever. 


i 


RESTIGOUCHE  RIVER. 


Itoute  15.       69 


le  dreamy 
ouc  of  the 
atincnt  of 
(Charles 

Tom  Dal- 

bove  Dal- 

erlooking 

were  the 

al  Byron's 

elics  have 

is  a  rocky 

nel  around 

piral  mass 

thsE.    1.^ 

abundant, 

ilts.,  which 

1  of  hdls  at 
is  hei*e  1  M. 
exportation 
ial  Railway 
d  is  studded 

!h. 

tided  by  fine 
iver  is  rapid 
a  known  as 
it  ions  of  the 
ic  church. 

ivhile  the  Miii- 
lese  two  tribes 
the  Penobscot 
B  places  of  the 
er  6,000  souls, 
d  a  life  of  con- 
land,  in  Cape 
360.  They  are 
lembers  of  the 
le  defeat  which 
le  flower  of  the 
jy  were  met  by 
)n  the  field  of 

1 1850,  and  was 
Governor-Gen- 
lose  chief  made 
I  wreck (anong 
,  and  the  noble 
rt'ith  them ,  and 
British  officers 
»r  as  drove  the 


m 


3  M.  above  Mission  Point  is  Point  au  Bourdo,  the  ancient  site  of  La 
Petite  Rochelle,  deriving  its  present  name  from  Capt.  Bourdo,  of  the  French 
frigate  Marchault,  who  was  killed  in  the  battle  off  this  point  and  was 
buried  here.  Fragments  of  the  French  vessels,  old  artillery,  camp  equip- 
ments, and  shells  have  been  found  in  great  numbers  in  this  vicinity. 

In  1760  Restigouche  was  defended  by  2  batteries,  garrisoned  by  250  French  regu- 
lars, 700  Acadians,  and  700  Indians;  and  in  the  harbor  lay  the  French  war-vessels 
Marchault,  32,  Bienfaisant,  22,  and  Marquis  Marloye,  18,  witli  19  prize-ships  wJiich 
had  been  captured  from  the  English.  The  place  was  attacked  by  a  powerful  British 
fleet,  consisting  of  the  Fame,  74,  Dorsetshire,  Scarborough,  Achilles,  and  Repulse,  all 
under  the  command  of  Commodore  John  Byron  (grandfather  of  the  poet.  Lord  By- 
ron). But  little  resistance  w.'.s  attempted;  and  the  French  fleet  and  batteries  sur- 
rendered to  their  formidable  autagonist.  The  captured  ships  were  carried  to  Louis- 
bourg,  and  the  batteries  and  the  200  housas  of  Restigouche  were  destroyed. 

The  Bestigouohe  Biver  is  a  stately  stream  which  is  navigable  for  135 
M.  above  Campbellton.  It  runs  through  level  lands  for  several  n^.iles  above 
its  mouth,  and  then  is  enclosed  between  bold  and  rugged  shores.  There 
are  hundreds  of  low  and  level  islands  of  a  rich  and  yearly  rej.  enished  soil; 
and  above  the  Tomkedgwick  are  wide  belts  of  intervale.  30  M.  from  its 
mouth  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Metapedia  River,  flowing  down  from 
the  Metis  Mts. ;  and  35  M.  from  the  mouth  is  the  confluence  of  the  trout- 
abounding  Upsalquitch.  21  M.  farther  up  is  the  mouth  of  the  Patapedia; 
and  20  M.  beyond  this  point  the  Tomkedgwick  comes  in  from  the  N.  W. 
This  system  of  waters  drains  over  6,000  square  miles  of  territory,  and  is 
connected  by  portages  with  the  streams  which  lead  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
and  the  River  St.  Lawrence. 

Campbellton  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  Metapedia  Road  leaves  the  N.  shore  of  the  Restigouche  a  few  miles 
above  Campbellton,  and  strikes  through  the  forest  to  the  N.  W.  for  the  St. 
Lawrence  River.  This  is  the  route  of  the  new  Intercolonial  Railway, 
which  passes  up  through  the  wilderness  to  St.  Flavie.  The  distance  from 
Campbellton  to  St.  Flavie  is  111  M.,  and  the  fare  by  stage  is  $  9.  This 
road  leads  across  the  barren  highlands  of  Gaspe,  and  through  one  of  the 
most  thinly  settled  portions  of  Canada. 

The  French  hamlet  of  St.  Alexis  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Metapedia 
River.  Metapedia  is  15  M.  above  Campbellton,  and  is  situated  amid  the 
pretty  scenerv  at  the  confluence  of  the  Metapedia  and  Restigouche  Rivers. 
The  salmon-fisheries  in  this  vicinity  attract  a  few  enthusiastic  sportsmen 
every  year.  Near  the  confluence  is  the  old  Eraser  mansion,  famous  among 
the  travellers  of  earlier  days.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  crosses  the  Resti- 
gouche in  this  vicinity,  and  has  a  station  at  Metapedia.  60  M,  beyond  this 
village  is  the  Metapedia  Lake. 

The  Metapedia  Lake  is  12  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide,  and  is  sunounded  by 
low  shores  of  limestone,  above  and  beyond  which  are  distant  ranges  of 
highlands.    Its  waters  abound  in  tuladi  (gray  trout),  trout,  and  white-fish, 


70      Route  IG.         ST.  JOHN  TO  HALIFAX. 


Sf  ' 


and  afford  good  sporting.    The  lake  contains  a  large  island,  which  is  a 
favorite  breeding-place  of  loons. 

St.  Flavie  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  450  French  people,  situated  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  the  point  where  the  Intercolonial 
Railway  reaches  the  river  and  turns  to  the  S.  \V.  towards  Quebec.  It  is 
distant  from  Campbellton,  111  M.;  from  Father  Point,  15  M.;  from  Rivi6re 
du  Loup,  76  M. ;  and  from  Quebec,  201  M. 


16.   St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

The  Intercolonid  Railway. 

This  route  traverses  the  S.  E.  counties  of  New  Brunswick,  passes  the  isthmus  at 
the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  after  crossing  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  rounding 
the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay,  runs  S.  \V.  to  the  city  of  Halifax.  It  traverses  some  in- 
teresting districts  and  has  a  few  glimpses  of  attractive  scenery,  but  the  views  are 
generally  monotonous  and  without  any  striking  beauties.  During  calm  and  pleasant 
■weather  the  traveller  will  find  the  Annapolis  route  (see  Route  18)  much  the  pleas- 
anter  way  to  go  from  St.  John  to  Halifax. 

There  is  no  change  of  cars  between  St.  John  and  Halifax,  and  baggage  is  checked 
through.  During  the  summer  there  is  a  day  express-train,  leaving  St.  John  at  7 
A.  M.,  and  due  at  Halifax  at  7.40  p.  m.  ;  and  a  night  express,  leaving  St.  John  at  8.30 
P.  M.,  and  duo  at  Halifax  at  9  a.  m.  Pullmau-cMo  have  recently  been  introduced  on 
this  line. 

Stations*  —  St.  John;  Moosepath,  3M. ;  Brookville,  5;  Torrybum,  6  ;  River- 
side, 7;  Rothesay,  9  ;  Quispamtiis,12;  Nauwigewauk,17  ;  Hampton,  22;  Paspekeag, 
26;  Bloomfield,  27;  Norton,  33;  Apohaqui,  39;  Sussex,  44 ;  I'lumweseep,  47; 
Penobsquis,  51;  Anagance,60;  Petitcodiac,  66;  Pollet  River,  71;  Salisbury,  76; 
Boundary  Creek,  79;  Moncton,89;  Humphrey,  91 ;  Painsec  Junction,  97  (Dorches- 
ter Road,  102  ;  Shediac,  106 ;  Point  du  Chene,  108) ;  Meadow  Brook,  101 ;  Memram- 
cook,  108 ;  Dorchester,  116 ;  Sackville,  127 ;  Aulac,  131 ;  Amherst,  138  ;  Nappan, 
144;  Maccan,147;  Athol,  161 ;  Spring  Hill,  156 ;  Salt  Springs,  164;  River  Philip, 
167 ;  Thompson,  174  ;  Greenville,  181 ;  Wentwortli,  187 ;  Folly  Lake,  191 ;  London- 
derry, 199;  Debert,  204;  Ishgonish,  208;  Truro,  216;  Johnson,  220;  Brookfield, 
224 ;  Polly  Bog,  229 ;  Stewiacke,  233 ;  Shubenacadio,  238 ;  Milford,  242  ;  Elmsdale, 
247;  Enfield.  249;  Grand  Lake,  254;  Wellington,  256;  Windsor  Junction,  264; 
Rocky  Lake,  266 ;  Bedford,  269  ;  Four-Mile  House,  2';3  ;  Halifax,  276. 

Farts  from  St.  John.  —  To  Sussex,  1st  class,  $  1.32,  —  2d  class, 88c. ;  to  Moncton, 
1st  cla,ss,  .92  67,  — 2d  class,  $  1.78  ;  to  Shediac,  1st  class,  $3,  — 2d  class,  $2;  to 
Amherst,  1st  class,  $ 3  78,  —2d  class,  ^2.52 ;  to  Truro,  1st  class,  $  5.06,  —  2d  class, 
«  3.37 ;  to  Halifax,  Ist  class,  $  6,  —  2d  class,  $  4. 

Fares  from  Halifax.  — To  Truro,  Ist  class,  $  1.83,  — 2d  class,  $  1.22 ;  to  Pictou, 
Ist  class,  $  3.15,  —'2d  class,  $  2.10 ;  to  Amherst,  1st  class,  $  3.78,— 2d  class,  $  2.52 ; 
to  Shediac,  1st  class,  $  4.55,  — 2d  class,  ^303;  to  Sussex,  1st  class,  $5.31,— 2d 
class,  $3.54  ;  to  St.  John,  1st  class,  $6,  — 2d  class,  $4. 

Way-passengers  can  estimate  their  expenses  easily  on  the  basis  of  3c.  per  mile  for 
1st  class,  and  2c.  per  mile  for  2d  class  tickets,  which  is  the  tarifif  fixed  by  the 
Canadian  Government  for  all  distances  of  less  than  100  M.  on  its  national  rail- 
ways. 

On  leaving  the  Valley  station,  in  the  city  of  St.  John  (see  page  19),  the 
train  passes  out  into  the  Marsh  Valley,  which  is  ascended  for  several  miles 
(see  page  22).  A  short  distance  beyond  Moosepath  Park  the  line  crosses 
Lawlor's  Lake  on  an  embankment  which  cost  heavily,  on  account  of  the 
great  depth  to  which  the  ballasting  sunk.  The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  soon 
seen,  on  the  1.,  and  is  skirted  for  5  M.,  passing  the  villas  of  Rothesay  (see 
page  22),  and  giving  pleasant  views  over  the  broad  waters.     Quispam- 


^A 


^liich  is  a 

ed  on  tho 

ercolonial 

)ec.    It  is 

>tn  Riviere 


SUSSEX  VALE. 


Jioiite  16.       7 1 


isthmus  at 
nd  rounding 
tea  some  in- 
30  views  are 
and  pleasant 
h  the  pleas- 

je  is  checked 
t.  John  at  7 
John  at  8.30 
itroduced  on 

u,  6 ;  River- 
;  Passekeag, 
nweseep,  47 ; 
alisbury,  76; 
97  (Dorchcs- 
)1 ;  Memram- 
38 ;  Nappan, 
River  Philip, 
191 ;  London- 
;  Brookfield, 
:2 ;  Eimsdale, 
motion,  264 ; 

;  to  Moncton, 
:las8,  $  2 ;  to 
6,  —  2d  class, 

2;  toPictou, 

class,  $  2.52 ; 
,$5.31,— 2d 

.  per  mile  for 

fixed  by  the 

national  rail- 


lage  19),  the 
everal  miles 
line  crosses 
;ount  of  the 
Bay  is  soon 
othesay  (see 
Quispam- 


sis  station  is  3  M.  S.  of  Gondola  Point,  whence  a  ferry  crosses  the  Ken- 
nebecasis  to  the  pretty  hamlet  of  Clifton.  The  narrowing  valley  is  now 
followed  to  the  N.  E.,  with  occasional  glimpses  of  the  river  on  the  1. 
Hampton  (two  hotels)  is  the  shire-town  of  Kings  County,  whose  new  pub- 
lic buildings  are  seen  to  the  r.  of  the  track.  It  is  a  thriving  village  of  re- 
cent origin,  and  is  visited  in  summer  by  the  people  of  St.  John,  on  account 
of  the  hill-scenery  in  the  vicinity. 

St.  Martin's,  or  Quacoj  is  about  20  M.  S.  E.,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  is  to  be 
connected  with  Hampton  by  a  new  railway.  (It  is  now  visited  by  tri-weekly  stage 
from  St.  John  in  32  M.,  fare  $  1.50  ;  a  rugged  road.)  This  is  one  of  the  chief  ship- 
building towns  in  the  province,  and  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  with  several  churches 
and  other  public  buildings.  It  was  originally  settled  by  the  King's  Orange  Rangers, 
and  has  recently  become  a  favorite  point  for  summer  excursions  from  St.  John. 
The  hotel  accommodation  is  inferior.  S.  of  the  village  is  the  tall  lighthouse  on 
Quaco  Head,  sustaining  a  revolving  white  light.  Tho  name  Quaco  is  a  contraction 
of  the  Indian  words  Gtdwahgahgee,  meaning  "  the  Home  of  the  Sea-cow." 

The  shores  about  Quaco  are  bold  and  picturesque,  fronting  the  Bay  with  lofty 
iron-bound  cliffs,  among  which  are  small  strips  of  stony  beaches.  The  strata  are 
highly  inclined  and  in  some  cases  are  strangely  contorted,  while  their  shelves  and 
crevices  are  adorned  witli  pine-trees.  Quaco  Head  is  2  M.  from  St.  Martin's,  and 
is  350  ft.  high,  surrounded  by  cliffs  of  red  sandstone  250  ft.  in  height.  This  b'»ld 
promontory  rises  directly  from  the  sea,  and  is  crowned  by  forests.  The  harbor  of 
Quaco  is  rather  pretty,  whence  it  has  been  likened  to  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Tracy^s 
Lake  is  about  5  M.  from  Quaco,  on  the  Loch  Lomond  road,  and  is  noted  for  an 
abundance  of  trout.  10-12  M.  N.  of  the  village  is  the  Mount  Theobald  Lake,  a 
small  round  forest-pool  in  which  trout  are  found  in  great  numbers. 

Hampton  station  is  1  M.  from  the  village  of  Hampton  Ferry,  and  beyond 
Bloomfield  the  train  reaches  Norton,  whence  a  road  runs  7  M.  N.  W.  to 
Springfield,  at  the  head  of  Belleisle  Bay.  Apohaqui( AT^ohaqui  Hotel)  is 
a  village  of  300  inhabitants,  on  the  upper  Kennebecasis,  and  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mill-stream  Valley. 

The  train  now  reaches  Sussex  {Exchange  Hotel),  a  pleasant  little  vil- 
lage of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  famous  farm-lands  of  the  Sttssex  Vale 
stretch  off  to  the  S.  E.  along  the  course  of  Trout  Brook.  There  are  sev- 
eral hamlets  (with  inns)  amid  the  pleasant  rural  scenery  of  the  Vale,  and 
good  trout-fishing  is  found  on  the  smaller  streams.  8  M.  up  is  the  pros- 
perous settlement  of  Seeley's  Mills,  with  650  inhabitants. 

The  Sussex  Vale  was  settled  by  the  military  corps  of  the  New  Jersey  Loyalists 
(most  of  whom  were  Germans),  soon  after  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  it  is  nov^ 
occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  their  descendants.  "Good  roads,  ^7eIl-executed 
bridges,  cleared  land,  excellent  crops,  comfortable  houses,  high-bred  cattle  and 
horses,  good  conveyances  public  and  private,  commodious  churches,  well-taught 
schools,  well-provided  inns,  and  an  iutelligent,  industrious  people,  all  in  tho  midst 
of  scenery  lofty,  soft,  rounded,  beautifully  varied  with  hill  and  valley,  mountain 
and  meadow,  forest  and  flood,  have  taken  the  place  of  the  pathless  wilderness,  the 
endless  trees,  the  untaught  Indian,  and  the  savege  moose."    (Pro*?.  Johnston.) 

Beyond  Plumweseep  occasional  glimpses  of  the  long  low  ridge  of  Picca- 
dilly Mt.  are  obtained  on  ihe  r,,  and  Mt.  Pisgah  is  just  N.  of  Penobsquis 
station  (small  inn),  which  is  the  seat  of  the  New  Brunswick  Paper  Manu- 
facturing Co.  and  of  several  oalt-works.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  hence  32 
M.  S.  E.  to  the  maritime  village  of  Salmon  River,  on  Chignecto  Bay,  4  M. 
N.  W.  of  the  obscure  shipping-port  of  Point  Wolfe  (Stv,veus's  Hotel). 


ill 

it  I 

I. 
t 


!l    <■: 


I     l& 


:i 

i 

'  1  ■ 

■ 

1       ,;  1 

. 

t 

L. 

72     /Zow/c  io'. 


MONCTON. 


Petitoodiac  {Mansard  House, -  Central  Hotel)  is  15  M.  beyond  Pcnob- 
squis,  and  is  a  busy  village  of  400  inliabitant?,  many  of  wliom  are  con- 
nected with  the  lumber-trade.  5  M.  S.  K.  is  th''  Pollett  River  village,  near 
which  there  is  good  trouting.  In  this  vicinity  are  the  Pollett  Falls,  where 
the  river,  afier  flowing  through  a  narrow  defile  between  lofty  and  rugged 
hills,  falls  over  a  line  of  sandstone  ledges,  and  then  whirls  away  down  a 
dark  gorge  below.  The  cavenis,  crags,  and  eroded  fronts  of  the  sand- 
stone cliffs  form  picturesque  bits  of  scenery.. 

15-18  M.  N.  of  Petitcodiac  are  the  famous  fishing-grounds  of  the 

Canaan  River.    The  railway  now  descends  the  valley  of  the  Petitcodiac 

River,  which  was  settled  after  the  Revolutionary  War  by  Germans  from 

Pennsylvania  who  remained  loyal  to  Great  Britain.     Salisbury  (two  inns) 

is  a  pleasant  village  of  300  inhabitants. 

Stages  run  from  Salisbury,  or  Moncton,  to  Hillgborougli  (two  hotels),  a  busy 
Tillage  of  900  inhabitants,  wlience  are  shipped  the  abundant  products  of  the  mines 
of  Albert  County.  The  Albert  Coal-mines  are  connected  with  Hillsborough  by  a 
railway  5^  M.  long,  and  produce  large  quantities  of  valuable  bituminous  coal,  much 
of  which  is  sent  by  sea  to  Portland  and  Boston.  2^  M.  from  the  village  are  exten- 
sive plaster-quarries,  whose  products  are  shipped  to  the  American  ports.  S.  E.  of 
Hillsborough,  dowu  the  Petitcodiac  River,  are  the  villages  of  the  parish  of  Hopewell, 
of  which  Hopewell  Cape  is  the  capital  of  the  county.  W.  of  Hopewell  Corner  is 
Harvey  Corner,  whence  a  pleasant  road  leads  to  Kocher.  To  the  S.  are  the  Shepody 
Lakes  and  lliver,  beyond  which  (and  8  M.  from  Harvey  Corner)  is  Little  llocher, 
near  Cape  Enrage  on  Chignecto  Bay  (with  a  fixed  light,  visible  for  15  M.).  Off  these 
bold  shores  are  the  Albert  Quarries  and  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Grindstone  Island.  The 
mines  and  villages  of  Albert  County  are  being  joined  witli  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way system  by  a  line  called  the  Albert  Railivay,  which  intersects  the  former  road 
and  runs  down  through  the  lower  parishes,  meeting  with  fine  scenery  in-its  passage 
between  Shepody  Mt.  (1,050  ft.  high)  and  the  Bay. 

Beyond  Salisbury  station  the  Halifax  train  runs  13  M.  N.  E.  to  Moncton 
(King''s  Hotel),  the  headquarters  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  and  the  site 
of  its  extensive  machine-shops.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  has  4  churches,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  some  n-anufacturing  works.  Its  situation  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Petitcodiac  gives  certain  commercial  advantages,  and 
affords  opportunity  for  the  visitor  to  see  the  great  "  Bore,"  or  tide-wave 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  At  the  beginning  of  the  flood-tide  a  wall  of  water 
4  -  6  ft.  high  sweeps  up  the  river,  and  within  6  hours  the  stream  rises  over 
70  ft.  On  account  of  the  sharp  curve  in  the  river  at  this  point,  Moncton 
was  known  only  as  "the  Bend"  for  over  a  century,  when  it  was  named 
in  honor  of  an  early  English  officer  of  the  Acadian  wars.  This  bend  also 
gave  rise  to  the  name  of  the  river,  which  was  hence  called  by  the  French 
Petit  Coude  ("Little  Elbow"). 

The  new  division  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  N.  from  Moncton,  and  is 
designed  to  meet  the  Canadian  railway  system  at  Riviere  du  Loup.  It  passe^j 
through  or  near  the  chief  towns  of  the  North  Shore,  and  follows  the  Bay  of  Clml- 
eur  for  many  miles.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  line  will  probably  be  open  to 
travel  in  the  summer  of  1875,  but  the  officers  of  the  road  cannot  yet  give  precise 
information.    The  towns  on  this  line  are  described  in  Route  15. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  to  the  N.  E.  from  Moncton,  and  after  passing 

Painsec  Junction  (sec  page  59)  deflects  to  the  S.  E.  into  the  Memramcook 


SACKVILLE. 


lioiite  16. 


nd  Pcnob- 
n  are  con- 
Uage,  near 
'alUj  where 
ind  rugged 
ray  down  a 
'  the  sand- 

nds  of  the 
Petitcodiac 
rmans  from 
I  (two  Inus) 

otels),  a  busy 

of  the  mines 
3orough  by  a 
18  coal,  much 
ige  are  exten- 
)rt8.    S.  E.  of 

of  Hopewell, 
veil  Corner  \a 

the  Shepody 
Liittle  llocher, 
A.).    Off  these 

Island.  The 
•colonial  Rail- 
16  former  road 
in -its  passage 

to  Uoncton 

and  the  site 
i  churches,  a 
1  at  the  head 
'antages,  and 
Dt  tide-wave 
tvall  of  water 
am  rises  over 
)int,  Moncton 
it  was  named 
liis  bend  also 
ly  the  Frencli 

[oncton,  and  is 
up.  It  passe':. 
;he  Bay  of  Chal- 
ibly  be  open  to 
yet  give  precise 

I  after  passing 
Memramcook 


Valley.  It  soon  reache<»  the  connected  villages  of  3femramcook  and  St. 
Joseph  (three  inns),  occupying  the  centre  of  a  prosperous  farming  district 
which  is  inhabited  by  over  1,000  Acadians,  —  a  ;nous  and  simple-hearted 
Catholic  peasantry,  — a  large  portion  of  whom  belong  to  the  prolific  fami- 
lies of  Leblanc.  Cormier,  Gaudct,  and  Bouquc.  On  the  opposite  shore  is 
the  College  of  St.  Joseph  do  Memramcook,  where  about  100  students 
(mostly  from  Canada  and  the  United  States)  are  conducted  through  a 
high-school  curriculum  ly  12  friars  and  ecclesiastics.  Near  the  college 
is  the  handsome  stone  building  of  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph  de  Memram- 
cook. 

The  scenery  is  of  a  bold  character  as  the  train  descends  the  r.  bank  of 
the  Memramcook  River,  and  crosses  to  Dorchester  ( Dorchester  Hotel),  a 
prosperous  village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
and  among  the  finest  wheat-lands  in  New  Brunswick.  In  this  vicinity 
(and  at  Rockland,  4  M.  W.)  are  large  quarries  of  olive-colored  sandstone, 
most  of  which  is  sent  to  Boston  and  New  York.  Dorchester  has  3  churches, 
the  public  buildings  of  Westmoreland  County,  and  numerous  pleasant 
residences.    Shipbuilding  is  carried  on  to  some  extent. 

A  ferry  crosses  Shopody  Bay  to  Hopewell  Cape  (see  page  72) ;  and  6-8  M.  W.  of 
Dorchestev  is  Belliveau  village,  nine  tenths  of  whose  inhabitants  belong  to  the  fami- 
lies of  Belliveau,  Gautreault,  and  Melan^on.  This  settlement  was  named  in  honor 
of  the  venerable  M.  Belliveau,  whose  long  life  extended  from  1730  to  1840.  In  1776 
many  cf  tho  Acadians  of  this  vicinity  joined  the  New  England  forces  under  Col. 
Eddy,  who  occupied  Sackville  and  attacked  Fort  Cumberland  (see  page  78). 

The  train  now  runs  E.  12  ^I.  from  Dorchester  to  Sackville  {Brmsidck 
House),  a  rising  and  prosperous  village  of  about  1,500  inhabitants,  situated 
on  a  red  sandstone  slope  at  the  mouth  of  the  T&ntramar  i  River,  near  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It  has  ship-yards,  a  stove  foundry,  a  news- 
paper, and  8  churches.  Sackville  is  the  seat  of  the  Mount  Allison  Wes- 
leyan  College,  an  institution  which  was  founded  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Allison,  and 
is  conducted  by  the  Wesleyan  Conference  of  Eastern  British  America.  It 
includes  a  small  college,  a  theological  hall,  and  academies  for  boys  and 
girls.  A  road  leads  from  Sackville  S.  E.  down  the  rugged  headland  be- 
tween Cumberland  Basin  and  Shepody  Bay,  passing  the  marine  hamlets 
of  Woodpoint  (5  M.),  Rockport  (12  M.),  and  N.  Joggins,  14  M.  from  Sack- 
ville, and  near  the  highlands  of  Cape  Marangouin. 

Sackville  is  the  point  established  for  the  outlet  of  the  projected  Bale  VeTte 
Canal)  a  useful  work  18  M.  long,  which  would  allow  vessels  to  pass  from  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  without  having  to  round  the  iron-bound  pe- 
ninsula of  Nova  Scotia.  This  canal  has  been  planned  and  desired  for  over  a  cen- 
tury, but  nothing  has  yet  been  done,  except  the  surveying  of  the  isthmus.  Tri- 
weekly stages  run  N.  E.  along  the  telegraph-rosid  from  Sackville  to  Jolicoeur  (lOM.), 
Baie  Verte  Road  (14  M.),  Bale  Verte  (18  M.,  small  inn),  and  Port  Elgin  (20  M. :  iua). 
About  16  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Elgin  is  Cape  Tormentine,  "  the  great  1)  luland 
which  forms  the  E.  extremity  of  New  Brunswick  within  the  Gulf  Indian  Point 
may  be  said  to  form  the  southern,  and  Cape  Jourimain  the  northern  points  of  this 
\ieadland,  which  is  a  place  of  importance  in  a  nautical  point  of  view,  not  only  from 

1  Tantramar,  from  the  French  word  Tintamarre,  meaning  "  a  thundering  noise." 
4 


ll 


74      Route  IG. 


TANTRAMAR  MARSH. 


t  • 


L'  i 


<( . 


it8  position,  but  from  its  dangerous  and  cxtonsivo  shoals. "  The  submarine  tolo- 
graph  to  I'rinpo  Kdward  Inland  crosccH  from  Capo  .Tc.iirininin ;  and  it  is  from  this 
point  that  the  winter  mail-service  is  conducted,  wlien  the  mails,  passengers,  and 
baggage  are  subjected  to  an  exciting  and  perilous  transit  in  ice-boats  to  Capo  Trav- 
erse. Bale  Verte  is  9  M.  wide  and  11  M.  deep,  but  affords  no  good  shelter.  It  re- 
ceives the  Tignish  and  (laspercau  Ilivcrs,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  latter  arc  tho 
ancient  ruins  of  Fort  Monctou. 

At  Sackvlllo  'ne  Halifax  train  crosses  tho  Tantramar  River,  and  runs 
out  over  tho  wido  Tantramar  Marsh  to  Aulac,  or  Cole's  Island  (stage  to 
Capo  Tormentine),  near  which  it  crosses  tho  Aulac  River.  Trains  are 
8ometime&  blocked  in  on  these  plains  during  the  snow-storms  of  winter, 
and  tho  passengers  are  subjected  to  great  hardships.  The  MissiguasU 
River  is  next  crossed,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Beausejour  (Cumberland)  on 
the  N.,  and  of  Fort  Beaubassin  (Lawrence)  on  the  S.  These  forts  are  best 
visited  from  Amherst,  which  is  4-6  M.  disiant,  and  is  reached  after  trav- 
ersing the  Missiguash  Marsh.  The  Missiguash  River  is  tho  boundary 
between  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  Amherst  is  the  first  to^vn 
reached  in  tho  latter  Province. 

Amherst  to  Halifax,  see  Route  17. 


i 


t'  i'i 


K  li 


marine  tclo- 
iH  from  thU 
"cngers,  and 
n  Capo  Trav- 
I'ltcr.  It  rc- 
ittcr  aro  tho 


r,  and  runs 
lid  (stage  to 

Trains  aro 
of  winter, 

Missiguasli 
iberland)  on 
orts  aro  best 
d  after  trav- 
10  boundary 
16  first  town 


KOVA    SCOTIA. 


The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  is  peninsular  in  location,  and  is  connected 
with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus  8  M.  wide.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  tho  Strait  of  Northumberland,  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence ;  on  the  E.  and  S.  by  tho  Atlantic  Ocean ;  and  on  the  W.  by  tho 
ocean,  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  Its  length, 
from  Cape  Canso  to  Capo  St.  Mary,  is  383  M.,  and  its  breadth  varies  from 
50  M.  to  104  M.  Tlio  area  of  tho  peninsular  portion  of  the  Province  is 
about  16,000  square  miles.  (The  island  of  Cape  Breton  is  connected  with 
this  Province,  politically,  but  its  description  is  reserved  for  another  sec- 
tion of  this  boolc.) 

"  Acadie  is  much  warmer  in  summer  and  much  colder  in  winter  than 
tho  countries  in  Europe  lying  under  tho  same  parallels  of  latitude" 
(Southern  France,  Sardinia,  Lombardy,  Genoa,  Venice,  Northern  Tur- 
key, the  Crimea,  and  Circassia).  "The  spring  season  is  colder  and  the 
autumn  more  agreeable  than  those  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
Its  climate  is  favorable  to  agriculture,  its  soil  generally  fertile.  The  land 
is  well  watered  by  rivers,  brooks,  and  lakes.  The  supply  of  timber  for 
use  and  for  exportation  may  bo  considered  as  inexhaustible.  The  fish- 
eries on  the  coasts  are  abundant.  Tho  harbors  aro  numerous  and  excel- 
lent. Wild  animals  aie  abundant,  among  which  are  remarkable  the  moose, 
caribou,  and  red  deer.  Wild  fowl  also  are  plenty.  Extensive  tracts  of 
alluvial  land  of  great  value  are  found  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  These  lands 
have  a  natural  richness  that  dispenses  with  all  manuring;  all  that  is 
wanted  to  keep  them  in  order  is  spade-work.  As  to  cereals,  —  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize,  all  prosper.  The  potato,  the  hop,  flax,  and 
hemp  aro  everywhere  prolific.  The  vegetables  of  the  kitchen  garden  are 
successfully  raised.  Of  fruit  there  are  many  wild  kinds,  and  tho  apple, 
pear,  plum,  and  cherry  seem  almost  indigenous.  Tho  vine  thrives ;  good 
grapes  aro  often  raised  in  the  open  air.  It  was  said  by  a  French  writer 
that  Acadie  produced  readily  everything  that  grew  in  Old  France,  except 
the  olive. 

"  In  the  peninsula,  or  Acadie  propoi',  there  is  an  abundance  of  mineral 
wealth.  Coal  is  found  in  Cumberland  and  Pictou ;  iron  ore,  in  Colchester 
and  Annapolis  Counties ;  gypsum,  in  Hants ;  marble  and  limestone,  in  dif- 
ferent localities;  freestone,  for  building,  at  Remsheg  (Port  Wallace)  and 


^ 


76 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


i!:'  • 


Pictou;  granite,  near  Halifax,  Shelburnc,  etc.;  brick  clay,  in  the  counties 
of  Halifax  and  Annapolis.  The  amethysts  of  Parrsborough  and  its  vicin- 
ity have  been  long  celebrated,  and  pearls  have  been  found  lately  In  the 
Annapolis  River.  The  discovery  of  gold  along  the  whole  Atlantic  shore  of 
the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  has  taken  place  since  1860,  and  it  now  gives 
steady  remunerative  employment  to  about  800  or  1,000  laborers,  with 
every  expectation  of  its  expansion."  (Beamish  Murdoch.)  The  pro- 
du  tion  of  gold  from  the  Nova-Scotia  mines  now  amounts  to  about  $  400,000 
a  year. 

In  1873  the  Nova-Scotians  caught  $6,577,086  worth  of  fish,  of  whioli 
$2,531,159  worth  were  of  codfish,  $1,411,676  of  mackerel,  $717,861  of 
herring,  and  $  805,574  of  lobsters. 

The  territory  now  occupied  by  the  Maritime  Provinces  was  known  for 
nearly  two  centuries  by  the  name  of  Acadie,'^  and  was  the  scene  of  fre- 
quent wars  between  Britain  and  France.  Its  first  discoverers  were  the 
Northmen,  about  the  year  1000  A.  d.,  and  Sebastian  Cabot  rediscovered 
it  in  1498.  In  1518  and  1598  futile  attempts  were  made  by  French  nobles 
to  found  colonies  here,  and  French  fishermen,  fur-traders,  and  explorers 
frequented  these  shores  for  over  a  century.  In  1605  a  settlement  was 
founded  at  Port  Royal,  after  the  discoveries  of  De  Monts  and  Champlain, 
but  it  was  broken  up  in  1618  by  the  Virginians,  who  claimed  that  Acadio 
belonged  to  Britain  by  virtue  of  Cabot's  discovery.  In  1621  James  I. 
of  England  granted  to  Sir  William  Alexander  the  domain  called  Nova 
Scotia,  including  all  the  lands  E.  of  a  line  drawn  from  Passamoq noddy 
Bay  N.  to  the  St.  Lawrence;  but  this  claim  was  renounced  in  1632,  and 
the  rival  French  nobles,  La  Tour  and  D'Aulnay,  commenced  their  fratri- 
cidal wars,  each  striving  to  be  sole  lord  of  Acadie.  In  1664  the  Province 
was  captured  by  a  force  sent  out  by  Cromwell,  but  the  French  interest 
soon  regained  its  former  position. 

The  order  of  the  Baronets  of  Nova  Scotia  was  founded  by  King  Charles 
I.,  in  1625,  and  consisted  of  150  well-born  gentlemen  of  Scotland,  who  re- 
ceived, with  their  titles  and  insignia,  grants  of  18  square  miles  each,  in  the 
wide  domains  of  Acadia.  These  manors  were  to  be  settled  by  the  baronets 
at  their  own  expense,  and  were  expected  in  time  to  yield  handsome 
revenues.  But  little  was  ever  accomplished  by  this  order.  Meantime 
Cardinal  Richelieu  founded  and  became  grand  master  of  a  more  powerful 
French  association  called  the  Company  of  New  France  (1627).    It  con- 

1  Acadia  is  the  Anglicized  (or  Latinized)  form  of  Acadie,  nn  Indian  word  signifying 
"  tlie  place,"  or  "  the  region."  It  is  a  part  of  the  compound  words  Seg^etxin-acaaie  {S\\\i- 
bcnacadie),  meaning  "  place  of  wild  potatoes";  TuUuk-cadin  (Tracadie),  meaning  "  dwelling- 
place";  Sun-acadie,  or  "place  of  cranberries";  Kitpoo-acadie,  or  "place  of  eagles,"  and 

fo  ~ 


I 


I 


mac  guide,  he  inquired  how  the  name  originated  ;  the  Indian  answered,  "  Because  plenty 
wild  potatoes  —  scp^eben  —  once  grew  here.      "  Well, '  acadie,'  Paul,  what  does  that  meau  i 
"  Means  — where  you  find  "em,"  rejoined  the  Micmac. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


77 


3  counties 
.  its  vicin- 
ely  in  tlio 
ic  shore  of 
now  gives 
rers,  ■with 
The  pro- 
b$  400,000 

,  of  wliicU 
717,861  of 

known  for 
!enc  of  frc- 
s  Avero  the 
idiscovercd 
ncli  nobles 
I  explorers 
lemcnt  was 
Champlain, 
that  Acadic 
1  James  I. 
illed  Nova 
amoquoddy 
n  1632,  and 
their  fratri- 
le  Province 
ich  interest 

ing  Charles 
ind,  who  re- 
each,  in  the 
the  baronets 
I  handsome 
Meantime 
)re  powerful 
7).    It  con- 


rord  BiRnify'ng 
•.H-acadic  (fehu- 
ing  *'  dwelling- 
of  eagles,"  and 
oddv,"  whence 
todi-quocldt/,  or 
die  with  a  Mic- 
Beoause  plenty 
es  that  meou  r 


I 


Plstcd  of  100  members,  who  received  Acadia,  Quebec,  Florida,  and  New- 
foundland "  in  simple  liomagc,"  and  had  power  to  erect  ducbios,  marquis- 
ntes,  and  seigniories,  subject  to  the  royal  approval.  They  allowed  Frcncli 
Catholics  only  to  settle  on  those  lands,  and  were  protected  by  national 
frigates.  This  order  continued  for  40  years,  and  was  instrumental  in 
founding  numerous  villages  along  tiie  Nova-Scotian  coast. 

In  1690  the  Now-Knglanders  overran  the  Trovince  and  seized  the  for- 
tresses, but  it  was  restored  to  Franco  in  1697.  In  1703  and  1707  unsuc- 
cessful expeditions  were  sent  from  Massachusetts  against  the  Acadian 
strongliolds,  but  they  were  finally  captured  in  1710;  and  in  1713  Nova 
Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  Tho  Prov- 
ince was  kept  in  a  condition  of  disorder  for  the  next  40  years,  by  tho  dis- 
afFection  of  its  French  population  and  the  lawlessness  of  tho  Indians,  and 
tho  British  fortresses  were  often  menaced  and  attacked.  After  the  founda- 
tion of  Halifax,  in  1?49,  a  slow  tide  of  immigration  set  in  and  strengthened 
tho  government.  In  1755  the  French  people  in  the  Province  (7,000  in  num- 
ber) were  suddenly  seized  and  transported  to  tho  remote  American  colo- 
nies, and  the  French  forts  on  tho  Baie-Vcrte  frontier  were  captured. 

In  1758  tlic  first  House  of  Assembly  met  at  Halifax,  and  in  1763  tho 
French  power  in  America  was  fii.  Ily  and  totally  crushed.  At  tho  close 
of  the  Revolution,  20,000  self-exiieu  Americans  settled  in  Nova  Scotia; 
and  in  1784  New  Brunswick  and  Cape  Breton  were  withdrawn  and  made 
into  separate  pi'ovinces  (Cape  Breton  was  reunited  to  Nova  Scotia  in  1820). 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812  Halifax  was  the  chief  station 
of  the  British  navy,  and  the  shores  of  the  Province  were  continually 
harassed  by  American  privateers. 

In  1864  a  convention  was  held  at  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  to  consider 
measures  for  forming  a  federal  union  of  the  Maritime  Provinces.  During 
the  session  Canadian  delegates  were  admitted,  on  the  request  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Provinces ;  and  a  subsequent  congress  of  all  the  Provinces  was 
held  at  Quebec,  at  which  the  plan  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  was  elabo- 
rated. It  is  now  thought  that  this  quasi-national  government  does  not  fulfil 
nil  the  original  wishes  of  the  seaboard  regions,  and  that  it  may  be  well  to 
unite  (or  reunite)  the  Maritime  Provinces  into  one  powerful  province 
called  Acadia,  by  which  the  expense  of  three  local  legislatures  and  cabi- 
nets could  be  saved,  their  homogeneous  commercial  interests  could  be 
favored  by  uniform  laws,  and  the  populous  and  wealthy  Provinces  of  Que- 
bec and  Ontario  could  be  balanced  in  the  Dominion  Parliancjnt. 


"  There  are  perhaps  no  Provinces  in  the  world  possessing  finer  harbors, 
or  furnishing  in  greater  abundance  all  the  conveniences  of  life.  The  climate 
is  quite  mild  and  very  healthy,  and  no  lands  have  been  found  that  are  not 

of  surpassing  fertility Finally,  nowhere  are  there  to  be  seen  forests 

more  beautiful  or  with  wood  better  fitted  for  buildings  and  masts.    There 


(!■ 


fKll 


li''        ft 

ml 


if 


78      Route  17. 


AMHERST. 


are  in  some  places  copper  mines,  tind  in  others  of  coal The  fish  most 

commonly  caught  on  the  coast  are  the  cod,  salmon,  mackerel,  herring, 
sardine,  shr^d,  trout,  gotte,  gaparot,  barbel,  sturgeon,  goberge,  —  all  fish 
that  can  be  salted  and  exported.     Seals,  walruses,  and  whales  are  found 

in  great  numbers The  rivers,  too,  are  full  of  fresh-water  fish,  and  the 

banks  teem  with  countless  game."    (Father  Charlevoix,  1765.) 

"Herewith  I  enter  the  lists  as  the  champion  of  Nova  Scotia Were 

I  to  give  a  first-class  certificate  of  its  general  character,  I  would  aflirm  that 
it  yields  a  greater  variety  of  products  for  export  than  any  territory  on  the 
globe  of  the  same  superficial  area.  This  is  saying  a  great  deal.  Let  us 
see  :  she  has  ice,  lumber,  ships,  salt-fish,  salmon  and  lobsters,  coal,  iron, 
gold,  copper,  plaster,  slate,  grindstones,  fat  cattle,  wool,  potatoes,  apples, 
large  game,  and  furs."    (Charles  Hallock,  1873.) 


'*;.;■ 


r 


I  <i 


t:     i, 


is;  i;i 


i!i  ii 


17.   St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

St.  John  to  Amherst,  see  preceding  route. 

Amherst  (Acadia  Hotel;  Amherst  Hotel)  is  a  flourishing  town  midway 
between  St.  John  and  Halifax  (138  M,  from  each).  It  is  the  capital  of 
Cumberland  County,  Nova  Scotia,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  Cumberland  Basin,  one  of  the  great  arms  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It 
has  3,606  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade;  while  the  im~ 
mense  area  of  fertile  meadows  about  the  town  furnishes  profitable  employ- 
ment for  a  large  rural  population.  Bi-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  up  the 
valley  of  the  La  Planclie  to  Tidnish  (two  inns),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants 
on  Bale  Verte,  Tri-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  to  Shinimicas  and  the  large 
farming  district  called  the  Head  of  Amherst,  which  has  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

The  present  domain  of  Nova  Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of 
Utrecht,  in  1(13,  but  its  boundaries  were  not  defined,  and  the  French  determined  to 
limit  it  on  the  N.  to  the  Missiguash  River.  To  this  end  Gov.  La  Jonqui6re  sent  M. 
La  Corne,  with  600  soldiers,  to  erect  forts  on  the  line  of  the  Missiguash.  The  war- 
rior-priest, the  Abb<5  Laloutre  (Vicar-Generiil  of  Acadie),  led  many  Acadians  to  this 
vicinity,  where  the  flourishing  settlement  of  Beaubassin  was  founded.  At  the  same 
time  La  Corne  established  a  chain  of  military  jiosts  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Bale 
Verte,  the  chief  fort  being  located  on  the  present  site  of  Fort  Cumberland,  and  bear- 
ing the  name  of  Beausejour.  The  governor  of  Nova  Scotia  sent  out  a  British  force 
under  Major  Lawrence,  who  captured  and  destroyed  Beaubassin,  and  erected  Fort 
Lawrence  near  its  site.  The  Acadians  were  industriously  laboring  in  the  peaceful 
pursuits  of  agriculture  about  Beausejour ;  and  the  King  of  France  had  granted 
80,000  livres  for  the  great  aboideau  across  the  Aulac  River.  The  British  complained, 
however,  that  the  priests  were  endeavoring  to  array  the  Acadians  against  them, 
and  to  en  Lice  them  away  from  the  Nova-Scotian  shores.  Tt  was  resolved  that  the 
French  forces  should  be  driven  from  their  position,  and  a  powerful  expedition  was 
fitted  out  at  Boston.  Three  frigates  and  a  number  of  transports  conveying  the  New- 
England  levies  sailed  up  the  Bay  of  Fuudy  in  May,  1755,  and  debarked  a  strong 


FORT  CUMBERLAND. 


Roxdc  17.      79 


he  fish  most 
rel,  herring, 
e,  —  all  fish 
es  are  found 
fish,  and  the 
1765.) 

Were 

Id  affirm  that 
ritory  on  the 
.leal.  Let  us 
rs,  coal,  iron, 
atoes,  apples, 


f 


town  midway 

the  capital  of 

ted  at  the  head 

■  of  Fundy.    It 

while  the  im~ 
)fitable  employ- 
n  N.  E.  uip  the 
300  inhabitants 
s  and  the  large 
I  over  2,000  in- 

by  the  Treaty  of 
nch  dctcmiined  to 
Jonqui6re  sent  M. 
igunsh.    The  war- 
ly  Acadians  to  this   . 
dcd.    At  the  same 
yr  of  Fundy  to  Baie 
iberland,  and  bear- 
3Ut  a  British  force 
and  erected  Fort 
ny  in  the  peaceful 
ranee  had  granted 
British  complained, 
ians  against  them, 
IS  resolved  that  the 
rful  expedition  was 
conveying  the  New- 
debarked  a  strong 


land  force  at  Fort  Lawrence.  Meantime  1,200  - 1,500  Acadians  had  been  gathered 
about  Beausejour,  by  the  inlluence  of  the  Abb6  Laloutre,  and  a  sharp  skirmish  was 
fouffht  on  L'lsle  de  la  Valliere.  On  the  4th  of  Juno  the  Anglo-American  forces  left 
their  camps  on  the  glacis  of  Fort  Lawrence,  routed  tlio  Acatlians  at  the  fords  of  the 
Missi-^uash  and  advanced  by  parallels  and  sicgc-lines  apjainst  the  hostile  works. 
When  the  British  batteries  reached  Buttc-a-Charles  tlio  fort  was  vigorously  shelled, 
and  with  such  disastrous  effect  that  it  capitulated  on  June  lGth,the  garrison  march- 
ing out  with  arms,  baggage,  and  banners.  The  French  troops  were  paroled  and 
sent  to  Louisbourg,  and  the  Acadians  were  suffered  to  remain.  Laloutre,  escaping 
to  Quebec  there  received  an  ecclesiastical  censure,  and  was  afterwards  remanded  to 

In  November,  1776,  Col.  Eddy  led  a  force  of  Massachusetts  troops,  men  of  Mau- 
gerville,  Acadians,  and  Indians,  against  Fort  Cumberland.  He  first  cut  out  a  store- 
vessel  from  under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  captured  several  detachments  of  the  gar- 
rison (the  Royal  Fencibles).  ""he  commandant  refused  to  surrender,  and  repulsed 
the  Americans  in  a  night-attack,  by  means  of  a  furious  cannonade.  Eddy  then 
blockaded  the  fort  for  several  days,  but  was  finally  driven  off  by  the  arrival  of  a 
man-of-war  from  Halifax,  bringing  a  reinforcement  of  400  men.  The  Massachusetts 
camp  was  broken  up  by  a  sortie,  and  all  its  stores  were  destroyed.  The  Americans 
fled  to  the  forest,  and  fell  back  ou  thu  St.  John  River.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
men  of  Cumberland  County  went  to  Maine  after  this  campaign,  despairing  of  tho 
success  of  Republicanism  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  Among  them  were  a  consid- 
erable number  of  Acadians. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  Cumberland  are  a  few  miles  N.  W.  of  Amherst,  beyond  the 
Aulac  River,  and  on  a  high  bluff  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Point  do  Bute  range  of  hills. 
It  was  kept  in  repair  by  the  Imperial  Government  for  many  yeai  .^  after  its  capture, 
and  still  presents  an  appearance  of  strength  and  solidity,  though  it  has  been  long 
deserted.  The  remains  of  the  besiegers'  parallels  are  also  visible  near  the  works. 
On  a  bold  bluff  within  cannon-shot,  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  Missiguash  River, 
are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  British  Fort  Lawrence.  Numerous  relics  of  the  old 
Acadians  may  still  be  traced  in  this  vicinity.  5  M.  abore  the  fort,  on  the  Baie  Verte 
road,  is  Bloody  Bridge,  where  a  British  foraging  party  under  Col.  Dixon  was  sur- 
prised and  massacred  by  the  Indians  (under  French  officers). 

The  *  view  from  the  bastions  of  Fort  Cumberland  is  famous  for  its  extent  and 
beau*.v.  It  includes  Sackville  and  its  colleges  on  the  N.  W.,  Amherst  and  the 
Nova-Scotian  shores  on  the  S.  E.,  and  the  bluff  and  hamlet  of  Fort  Lawrence.  The 
wide  and  blooming  expanse  of  the  Tantraraar  and  Missiguash  Marshes  is  over- 
looked,—  the  view  including  over  50,000  acres  of  rich  marine  intervale,  —  and  on 
the  S.  the  eye  travels  for  many  leagues  down  tho  blue  sheet  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
(Cumberland  Basin). 

The  great  Taiitramar  Marsli  is  S.  of  Sackville,  and  is  9  M.  long  by  4  M.  wide, 
being  also  traversed  by  tho  Tantramar  and  Aulac  Rivers.  It  is  composed  of  fine 
silicious  matter  deposited  as  marine  alluvium,  and  is  called  "  red  marsh,"  in  dis- 
tinction from  the  "  blue  marsh  "  of  the  uplands.  The  low  shores  around  the  head 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  for  a  distance  of  20  M.  have  been  reclaimed  by  the  erection  of 
dikes,  with  aboideaux  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  to  exclude  tho  flow  of  the  tiden. 
The  land  thus  gained  is  very  rich,  and  produces  fine  crops  of  English  hay,  averag- 
ing from  1)^  to  2  tons  to  the  acre.  The  Innd  seems  inexhaustible,  having  been  cul- 
tivated now  for  nearly  a  century  without  rotation  or  fertilization. 

The  Chignec.lo  Peninsula. 

Mlnudie  is  8  M.  S.  W.  of  Amherst,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  ferry  across 
the  estuaries  of  the  Maccan  and  Hebert  Rivers.  It  has  600  inhabitants,  and  is  near 
the  rich  meadows  called  the  Elysian  Fields.  In  the  vicinity  are  profitable  quarries 
of  grindstones  J  and  there  are  shad-fisheries  to  the  S.  W.  6-8  M.  S.  are  the  Joggius 
Mines,  pcrtaiumg  to  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  ;  and  the  Victoria 
Mines,  on  the  river  Hebert.  Coal  has  been  obtained  thence  for  25  yeaiu.  This  dis- 
trict is  reached  by  stages  from  Maccan  station.  About  the  year  1730  the  coal-mines 
at  Chignecto  were  leased  to  a  Boston  company,  which  was  to  pay  a  quit-rent  of  one 
penny  an  acre  (on  4,000  acres),  and  a  royalty  of  18  pence  per  chaldron  on  the  coal 
raised.  But  this  enterprise  was  broken  up  in  1732,  when  the  warehouses  and  ma- 
chinery were  dtjstroyei  by  tho  Indians  (probably  incited  by  tho  French  at  Louis- 
bourjj). 


n 

1 '  f- 

ir 

:;  ! 

h 

i 

.  Ir 


i    ^ 


lljj 
Ij   111'      ^ 

"  It 


80 


Route  17. 


COBEQUID  MTS. 


The  Jogprins  Sliore  extends  'i  the  S.W.  along  the  Chignecto  Channel,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  geological  i)eculiarities,  which  have  been  visited  and  studied  by 
European  savans.  The  Iwal  explanation  of  tliename  is  that  the  cliffs  here  "jog  in" 
and  out  in  an  unexampled  maimer.  The  height  of  the  cliffs  is  from  130  to  400  ft. ;  and 
the  width  of  the  Chignecto  Basin  '.  i  from  5  to  8  M.  35-40  M.  from  Amherst  is  Apple 
River,  a  sequestered  hamlet  on  the  estuary  of  the  Apple  River,  amidst  fine  marine 
scenery.  Apple  Head  is  just  W.  of  this  place,  and  is  413  ft.  high,  overlooking  the 
Chignecto  Channel  and  the  New-Brunswick  shores.  There  is  a  fixed  white  light  on 
its  outer  point.  To  the  E.,  Apple  River  traverses  the  Caribou  Plains,  and  on  its 
upper  waters  affords  the  best  of  trout-fishing,  with  an  abundance  of  salmon  between 
February  and  July,  15-20  ^I.  S.  W.  of  Apple  River,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the 
Cobequid  Mts.  E.  of  Cape  Chignecto,  is  Advocate  Harbor  (see  Route  21). 

' '  The  road  from  Amherst  to  Parrsboro"  is  tedious  and  uninteresting.  In  places 
it  is  made  so  straight  that  you  can  see  several  miles  of  it  before  you,  whic}»  produces 
an  appearance  of  interminable  length,  while  the  stunted  growth  of  the  spruce  and 
birch  trees  bespeaks  a  cold,  thin  soil,  and  invests  the  scene  with  a  melancholy  and 
Bterilo  aspect."  (Judge  IIaijiburtox.)  This  road  is  30  M.  long,  ascending  the  val- 
ley of  the  Maccan  River,  u^a  passing  the  hamlet  of  Cannan,  near  the  Cobequid  Mts. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Amherst  to  Maccan  (stages  to  Minudle 
andJoggins),  inthegrcatcoal-fieklofCuaberland  County.  Dally  stages  run 
from  Atliol  station  to  Pan-sboro'.  From  Athol  the  line  passes  to  Spring  Hill, 
a  coal-mining  district,  whence  a  railway  is  being  constructed  to  Parrsboro' 
(see  Route  21).  11  M.  beyond  is  the  station  at  River  Philip  (small  hotel), 
a  pleasant  stream  in  which  good  fishing  is  found.  The  salmon  are  espe- 
cially abundant  during  the  springtime.  Oxford  station  (two  inns)  has  two 
small  woollen  factories,  and  is  14  M.  S.  W.  of  Pugwash,  on  the  Northumber- 
land Strait. 

The  train  now  passes  through  extensive  forests,  in  which  many  sugar- 
maples  are  seen,  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.,  with  the 
Wallace  Valley  below  on  the  1.  The  Oobequid  range  runs  almost  due  E. 
and  W.  from  Truro,  and  is  100  M.  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  10  - 12 
M.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  rounded  hills,  800  - 1,000  feet  high,  cov- 
ered with  tall  and  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  sugar-maple.  From 
Thomson,  Greenville,  and  Wentworth  stations  stages  run  to  Wallace  and 
Pugwash  (see  page  81),  also  to  Westchester.  The  railway  traverses  the 
hill-country  by  the  Folly  Pass,  and  has  its  heaviest  grades  between  Folly 
Lake  and  Londonderry;  where  are  also  2-3  M.  of  snow-sheds,  to  protect 
the  deep  cuttings  from  the  drifting  in  of  snow  from  the  hills.  Fine  views 
of  the  Wallace  Valley  are  afforded  from  the  open  levels  of  the  line.  From 
LoitdonJerry  a  branch-railway  runs  to  the  Londonderry  Iron-mines,  which 
have  been  worked  for  nearly  40  years.  The  ores  are  magnetic,  specular, 
and  hematite,  and  occur  in  a  wedge-shaped  vein  7  M.  long  and  120  ft. 
thick-     The  iron  is  of  fine  quality,  but  is  difficult  to  work. 

The  train  descends  from  the  Pass  along  the  line  of  the  Folly  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a  bridge  200  feet  above  the  water.  Beyond  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  Debert  (stages  to  Economy  and  Five  Islands)  the  descent  is  con- 
tinued, and  occasional  views  of  the  Cobequid  Bay  are  given  as  the  train 
passes  ncross  Onslow  to  Truro.  The  landscape  now  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing and  thickly  settled. 


TRURO. 


Jioute  17.       81 


1  Channel ,  and  Is 
I  and  studied  by 
ffa  here  "jog  in" 
30  to  400  ft. ;  and 
Amherst  is  Apph 
lidst  fine  marine 
,  overlooking  the 
ed  white  light  on 
?lains,  and  on  its 
if  salmon  between 
vrhich  crosses  the 

0  21).  y 
sating.    In  places 

1,  whic?'  produces 
)f  the  spruce  and 

1  melancholy  and 
iscending  the  val- 
;he  Cobequid  Mts. 

iges  to  Miiiudle 
Dsiily  stages  run 
s  to  Spring  Hill, 
ed  to  Parrsboro' 
'j)  (small  hotel), 
[ilmon  are  espe- 
vo  inns)  has  two 
the  Northumber- 

ich  many  sugar- 
L  Mts.,  with  the 
IS  almost  due  E. 
>readth  of  10-12 

0  feet  high,  cov- 
ir-raaple.    From 

1  to  Wallace  and 
ray  traverses  the 
s  between  Folly 
sheds,  to  protect 
ills.  Fine  vieAVS 
f  the  line.  From 
ron-mines,  which 
ignetic,  specular, 
long  and  120  ft. 
c. 

'oily  River,  which 
the  farming  set- 
he  descent  is  con- 
given  as  the  train 
iomes  more  pleas- 


I 


Truro  {Somerset  House;  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel;  Victoria)  is  a  wealthy 
and  prosperous  town  of  over  4,000  inhabitants,  and  occupies  a  pleasant 
situation  2  M.  from  the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay  (an  arm  of  the  Basin  of 
^linas).  The  level  site  of  the  town  is  nearly  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  gracefully  rounded  hills,  and  on  the  W.  are  the  old  diked 
meadows  of  the  Acadian  era.  Truro  is  the  capital  of  Colchester  County 
and  th'j  seat  of  the  Provincial  Normal  School.  Fishing  and  shipbuilding 
are  cirried  on  here,  and  there  are  large  and  growing  manufactures,  in- 
cluding boots  and  shoes,  woollens,  and  iron-wares.  The  neighboring 
county  has  valuable  fai'ming-lands,  and  contains  several  iron-niines. 

Truro  was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  Acadian  French,  and  after  their  expul- 
sion from  Nova  Scotia  was  occupied  by  Scotch-Irish  from  New  Hampshire.  In 
1761  a  large  number  of  disbanded  Irish  troops  settled  here,  and  engaged  in  the 
peaceful  pursuits  of  agriculture. 

A  road  runs  \Y.  from  Truro  between  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
passing  Masstown  (10  M. ) ;  Folly  Village  (14  M.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Folly  River; 
Great  Village  (18  M.),  a  place  of  600  inhabitants  ;  Highland  Village  (21  M.) ;  Port 
au  Pique  (23  M.) ;  Bass  River  (27  M.) ;  Upper  Economy  (28  M.) ;  and  Five  Islands 
(45  M.).    (See  Route  22.)    The  stages  run  from  Debert  station. 

Stages  also  run  S.  W.  to  Old  B.arns,  on  the  S.  shore  of  Cobequid  Bay,  and  S.  E.  15 
M.  to  Middle  Stewiacke,  on  the  Stewiacke  River. 

Truro  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way (see  Route  31). 

The  North  Shore  of  Nor  z  Scotia. 

Blair's  express-st^es  leave  Truro  on  the  arrival  of  the  morning  trains  from  Hali- 
fax, on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  returning  on  the  alternate  days.  Truro 
to  Tatamagouche,  29  M. ;  to  Wallace,  42 ;  to  Pugwash,  52.  Stages  also  run  from 
Wentworth,  Greenville,  and  Thomson  to  the  N.  Shore  (according  to  the  Intercolonial 
Railway  circular  for  1874),  and  a  tri-weekly  line  runs,  between  Pictou  and  Amherst 
by  way  of  the  N.  shore. 

In  passing  from  Truro  to  Tatamagouche  the  road  crosses  the  Cobequid 
Jits,  and  descends  through  a  thinly  settled  region  to  the  N.  Tatamagouche 
(two  inns)  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  large  harbor  which  opens  on  the 
Northumberland  Strait,  and  has  about  1,500  inhabitants.  Some  chip- 
building  is  done  here,  and  there  are  fr-^estone  quarries  in  the  vicinity. 
G  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  large  village  of  Brule  Harbor,  and  6  M.  farther  E., 
also  on  the  Tatamagouche  Bay,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  John,  is 
tlie  shipbuilding  settlement  of  River  John,  which  was  founded  by  Swiss 
Protestants  in  1733.  It  is  20  M.  from  this  point  to  Pictou,  and  the  inter- 
vening coast  is  occupied  by  colonists  from  the  Hebrides. 

Blair's  stage  runs  W.  from  Tatamagouche  to  Wallace  (two  inns),  a  town 
of  2,600  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  deep  v/aters  of  Wallace  Harbor  (for- 
merly called  Remsheg).  Plaster,  lime,  and  freestone  are  found  here  in 
large  quantities,  and  the  latter  is  being  quarried  by  several  companies. 
The  Provincial  Building  at  Halifax  was  made  of  Wallace  stone.  To  the 
N.E.,  beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Mullin  Point,  \z  the  marine  hamlet  o^  Fox 
Earbor,  whose  original  settlers  came  from  the  Hebrides.  Pugwash  (small 
inn)  is  10  M.  beyond  Wallace,  and  is  a  flourishing  port  with  about  3,300 
4*  P 


82      Route  17. 


GOLD  MINES. 


,'  I 


!       ! 


Ill 
11' 


I 


H 


il 


Si 

.ill 


1 

'I 

rl 

!1 

1 

,, 

■  1 

inhabitants.  Tlie  harbor,  though  d'fficult  of  access,  is  deep  and  well  shel- 
tered, and  has  several  ship-yards  on  its  shores.  The  chief  exports  of  Pug- 
wash  are  deals  and  lumber,  freestone,  lime,  and  plaster. 


The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Truro  to  Brookfield,  whence  hay  and 
lumber  are  exported,  and  then  to  Stewiacke,  which  is  3  M.  from  the  pretty 
farming  village  of  the  same  name,  on  the  Stewiacke  River.  The  next  sta- 
tion is  Shubenacadie  (International  Hotel),  a  busy  little  manufacturing 
village  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

Daily  stages  descend  the  valley  of  the  Shubenacadie  for  18  M.  to  the  N.  to  the 
town  of  Maitland  (t\fo  inns),  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  (see  Route  22).  Stages  also 
run  S.  E.  (Tuesday  and  Thursday)  to  Gay'&  River  (7  M.),  Gay's  River  Road  (14  M  ), 
Middle  Musquodoboit  (21  M.),  Upper  Musquodoboit  (25  M.),  Melrose,  Guysborough, 
and  Port  Mulgrave,  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  Gold  was  discovered  near  Gay's  River 
in  18G2,  in  the  cenglomerate  rock  of  the  great  ridge  called  the  Boar's  Back,  which 
extends  for  60  M.  through  the  inland  towns.  It  nearly  resembles  the  alluvial  de- 
posits found  in  the  placer-diggings  of  California,  and  the  stream-washings  have 
yielded  as  high  as  an  ounce  per  man  daily.  Scientific  mining  was  begun  '-^  1803, 
but  has  given  only  light  returns.  Middle  Musquodoboit  is  a  farming-towr  with 
about  1,(X)0  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  S.  of  the  Boar's  Back  ridge,  42  M.  ..om 
Halifax.  Upper  Musquodoboit  is  about  the  same  size,  and  beyond  that  point  the 
stages  traverse  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  district  for  several  leagues,  to  Melrose. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  W.  to  Elmsdale,  a  village  near  the  Shuben- 
acadie River,  engaged  in  making  leather  and  carriages.  Enfield  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  pottery.  7  M.  N.  W.  are  the  Renfrew  Gold-Mints^  where 
gold-bearing  quartz  was  discovered  in  1861.  Much  money  and  labor  were 
at  first  wasted  by  inexperienced  miners,  but  of  late  years  the  lodes  have 
been  worked  systematically,  and  are  considered  among  the  most  valuable 
in  Nova  Scotia.  The  average  yield  is  16  pennyweights  of  gold  to  a  ton  of 
quartz,  and  in  1869  these  mines  yielded  3,097  ounces  of  the  precious  metal, 
valued  at  $  61,490.  The  Oldham  Mines  are  Sj  M.  S.  of  Enfield,  and  are 
in  a  deep  narrow  valley,  along  whose  bottom  shafts  have  been  sunk  to 
reach  the  auriferous  quartz.  Between  1861  and  1869,  9,254  ounces  of  gold 
were  sent  from  the  Oldham  diggings,  and  it  is  thought  that  yet  richer 
lodes  may  be  found  at  a  greater  depth. 

Soon  after  leaving  Enfield  the  train  passes  along  the  S.  E.  shore  of  Grand 
Lake,  which  is  8  M.  long  by  1  -  2  M.  wide.  It  crosses  the  outlet  stream, 
runs  around  Long  Lake,  and  intersects  the  Windsor  Branch  Railway  at 
Windsor  Junction.  Station,  Rocky  Lake,  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
where  large  quantities  of  ice  are  cut  by  the  Nova-Scotia  Ice  Company,  for 
exportation  to  the  United  States.  3  M.  N.  E.  of  this  station  are  ths  Waver- 
ley  Gold-Mines,  where  the  gold  is  found  in  barrel-quartz,  so  named  because 
it  appears  in  cylindrical  masses  like  barrels  laid  side  by  side,  or  like  & 
corduroy-road.  At  its  first  discovery  all  the  floating  population  of  Halifax 
flocked  out  here,  but  they  failed  to  better  their  condition,  and  the  total 
yield  between  1861  and  1869  was  only  about  1,600  ounces.  Waverley  vil- 
lage is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  between  two  lakes,  and 
has  about  600  inhabitants. 


I 


i 


^ 


ANNAPOLIS  ROUTE. 


Route  IS.       83 


and  well  sliel- 
tports  of  Pug- 


ence  hay  and 

•om  the  pretty 

The  next  sta- 

nanufacturing 

:o  the  N.  to  the 
J2).  Stages  also 
er  Road  (14  M  ), 
e,  Guysborough, 
aear  Gay's  River 
ir's  Back,  which 
i  the  alluvial  de- 
a-washings  have 
1  begun  '"  1803, 
•ming-towi  with 
idge,  42  M.  -om 
lid  tliat  point  the 
es,  to  Melrose. 

ir  the  Shuben- 

Enfield  is  the 

d-Mines,  where 

and  labor  Avere 

1  the  lodes  have 

3  most  valuable 
gold  to  a  ton  of 
precious  metal, 

Enfield,  and  are 
e  been  sunk  to 

4  ounces  of  gold 
that  yet  richer 

i.  shore  of  Grand 
e  outlet  stream, 
inch  Railv/ay  at 
the  same  name, 
ce  Company,  for 
1  are  the  Waver- 
0  named  because 
by  side,  or  like  a 
ilation  of  Halifax 
m,  and  the  total 
I.  Waverley  vil- 
n  two  lakes,  and 


t 


After  crossing  Rocky  Lake  the  train  soon  reaches  the  shores  of  the 
beautiful  Bedford  Basin,  and  follows  their  gi-aceful  curves  for  several 
miles.  On  the  1.  are  fine  views  of  the  villas  and  hills  beyond  the  blue 
water. 

Halifax,  see  page  93. 

18.   St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley. 

This  is  the  pleasantest  route,  during  calm  weather,  between  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  After  a  passage  of  about  5  hours  in  the  steamer,  across  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  the  pretty  scenery  of  the  Annapolis  Basin  is  traversed,  and  at  Annapolis 
the  passenger  talies  the  train  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Railway,  which  runs 
through  to  Halifax.  The  line  traverses  a  comparatively  rich  and  picturesque  coun- 
try, abounding  in  historic  and  poetic  associations  of  the  deepest  interest. 

The  distance  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  by  this  route  is  86  M.  less  than  by  the 
Intercolonial  Railway ;  but  the  time  on  both  routes  is  about  the  same,  on  account 
of  the  delay  in  crossing  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  Annapolis-llahfax  line  is  only  prac- 
ticable 4  times  a  week.  The  steamer  leaves  St.  John  at  8  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  AVednes- 
day,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  express  trains  which  leave  Annapolis 
at  2  p.  M.  and  arrive  at  Halifax  at  about  8  p.  m.  Express  trains  leave  Ilahfax  at  8.15  a.m. 
on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  steamer  which 
leaves  Annapolis  at  2.35  p.  m.  and  arrives  at  St.  John  at  8  p.  m.    (Time-table  ot  1874.) 

Fares.  — St.  John  to  Halifax,  1st  class,  S5;  2d  class,  $350;  to  Digby,  $150; 
to  Annapolis  $2.  Passengers  for  Halifax  dine  on  the  steamer  and  take  tea  at  Kent- 
ville  (10  minutes) ;  those  for  St.  John  dine  at  Kentville  (18  minutes)  and  take  tea 
on  the  boat.  There  are  two  through  trains  each  '^ay  daily  between  Halifax  and 
Annapolis.  Special  rates  are  made  for  excursions  (limited  time)  by  the  agents  of 
this  route.  Small  &  Hathaway,  89  Dock  St.,  St.  John. 

Distances.  —  St.  John  to  Digby,  43  M. ;  Annapolis.  61 ;  Round  Hill,  68 ;  Bridge- 
town, 75;  Paradise,  80;  Lawrencetown,  83;  Middleton ,  89 ;  Wilmot,  92;  Kingston, 
96;  Morden  Road,  101;  Aylesford,  103;  Berwick,  108;  Waterville,  111 ;  Cambridge. 
113;  Coldbrook,  115;  Kentville,  120;  Port  Williams,  125;  Wolfville,  127;  Grand 
Pr6, 130;  Ilorton  Landing,  131;  Avonport,  133;  Hantsport,  138;  Mount  Denson, 
140;  Falmouth,  143;  Windsor,  145  ;  Three-Mile  Plains,  148 ;  Newport,  151 ;  Ellers- 
house,  154;  Stillwater,  157;  Mount  Uniacke,  164 ;  Beaver  Bank,  174;  Windsor  Junc- 
tion, 177 ;  Rocky  Lake,  179 ;  Bedford,  182 ;  Four-Mile  House,  186 ;  Halifax,  190. 

The  steamer  Empress  leaves  her  wharf  at  Eeed's  Point,  St.  John,  and 
soon  passes  the  heights  and  spires  of  Carleton  on  the  r.  and  the  lighthouse 
on  Partridge  Island  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  Mispeck  Point  is  seen.  Cape 
Spencer  is  thjn  opened  to  the  E.,  on  the  New  BrunsAvick  coast,  and  the 
steamer  sweeps  out  into  the  open  bay.  Travellers  who  are  subject  to  sea- 
sickness would  do  well  to  avoid  this  passage  during  or  immediately  after 
a  breeze  from  the  N.  E.  or  S.  W.,  or  during  a  gale  from  any  direction.  At 
such  times  very  rough  Avater  is  found  on  the  bay.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  the  ocean-steamships  Pactolus  and  Connaught  were  lost  in  these 
waters.  But  in  ordinary  summer  weather  the  bay  is  quiet,  except  for  a 
light  tidal  swell,  and  will  not  affect  the  traveller  whose  mind  is  properly 
fixed  on  something  outside  of  himself. 

Soon  after  passing  Partridge  Island,  the  dark  ridge  of  the  North  Mt.  is 
seen  in  advance,  cleft  by  the  gap  called  the  *  Digby  Gut,  which,  in  the 
earlier  days,  was  known  as  St.  George's  Channel.  The  course  is  laid 
straight  for  this  pass,  and  the  steamer  runs  in  by  PHm  Point,  with  its  7og- 
whistle  and  fixed  light  (visible  13  M.),  and  enters  the  tide-swept  defile, 


\l 


i    i 
I     < 


H: 


m 


II 


I   7 


ir 


IL 


8-4      r.oute  IS. 


ANN7.P0LIS  BASIN. 


with  bold  and  mountainous  bluffs  rising  on  either  side.    The  shores  on 

tlie  1.  are  610  ft.  high,  and  on  the  r.  400-560  ft.,  between  which  the  tide 

rushes  with  a  velocity  of  5  knots  an  liour,  making  br  jad  and  powerful 

swirls  and  eddies  over  12-25  fathoms  of  water.    After  running  for  about 

2  M.  through  this  passage,  the  steamer  enters  the  AnnapoHs  Basin,  and 

runs  S.  by  E.  3  M.  to  Digby. 

"  The  white  houses  of  Digby,  scattered  over  the  downs  like  a  flock  of  washed  sheep, 
had  a  somewhat  chilly  aspect,  it  is  true,  and  made  us  long  for  the  sun  on  them. 
But  as  I  think  of  it  now,  I  prefer  to  have  the  town  and  the  pretty  hillsides  that 
stand  about  the  basin  in  the  light  we  saw  them  ;  and  especially  do  I  like  to  recall 
the  high  wooden  pier  at  Digby,  deserted  by  the  <ide  and  so  blown  by  the  wind  that 
the  passengers  rho  came  out  on  it,  with  their  tossing  drapery,  brought  to  mind  the 
windy  Dutch  harbors  that  Backhiiysen  painted."    (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

Digby  {Daley's  Hotel)  is  a  m.*ritime  village  of  about  1,000  Inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  S.  W.  shore  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  engaged  in  ship- 
building and  tlie  fisheries  of  haddock,  mackerel,  anc  herring.  The  Digby 
herring  are  famous  for  their  delicacy,  and  are  known  in  the  Provinces  as 
"Digby  chickens."  Porpoises,  also,  are  caught  in  the  swift  currents  of 
tlie  Digby  Gut.  The  village  is  visited  by  summer  voyagers  on  account  of 
its  picturesque  environs  and  the  opportunities  for  fishing  and  sporting  in 
the  vicinity ;  and  attempts  have  been  made  to  erect  a  large  hotel.  There 
was  a  French  fort  here  in  the  early  days ;  and  in  1783  the  township  was 
granted  to  the  ex-American  Loyalists,  who  founded  the  village  of  Conway 
on  these  shores.  Stages  run  between  Digby  and  Annapolis,  and  also  from 
Digby  to  Yarmouth  (see  Route  25). 

It  is  called  18  M.  from  Digby  to  Annapolis  (though  this  distance  seems 
over-estimated  when  compared  with  the  charts  and  the  course  nin  by  the 
steamer).  The  *  Annapolis  Basin  gradually  decreases  from  a  width  of 
nearly  5  M.  to  1  M.,  and  is  hemmed  in  between  the  converging  ridges  of  the 
North  Mt.  and  the  South  Mt.  The  former  range  has  a  height  of  6  -  700  ft., 
and  is  bold  and  mountainous  in  its  outlines.  The  South  Mt.  is  from  300 
to  500  ft.  high,  and  its  lines  of  ascent  are  more  gradual.  The  North  Mt. 
is  composed  of  trap,  resting  upon  red  sandstone ;  and  the  South  Mt.  is  of 
granite  and  metamorphic  slates.  The  geologic  theory  is  that  the  North 
Mt.  was  once  completely  insulated,  and  that  the  tides  flowed  through  tlie 
whole  valley,  until  a  shoal  at  '.he  confluence  of  the  Blomidon  and  Digby 
currents  became  a  bar,  and  this  in  time  became  dry  land  and  a  water-shed. 

Between  the  head  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  slopes  of  the  Annapolis  Basin 
are  the  rarely  visited  and  sequestered  hill-ranges  called  he  Blue  Moun- 
tains. "The  Indians  are  said  to  have  formerly  resorted  periodically  to 
groves  among  these  wilds,  which  they  considered  as  consecrated  places, 
in  order  to  offer  sacrifices  to  their  gods." 

*'  We  were  sailing  along  the  gracefully  moulded  and  tree-covered  hills  of  the  An- 
napolis Basin,  and  up  the  mildly  picturesque  river  of  that  name,  and  we  were  about 
to  enter  what  the  provincials  all  enthusiastically  call  the  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia. 
.  .  .  .  It  is,  —  this  valley  of  Annapolis,  —  in  the  belief  of  provincials,  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  blooming  place  in  the  world,  with  a  soil  and  climate  kind  to  the  husband- 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


Moute  18.      85 


shores  on 
,ch  the  tide 
(1  powerful 
g  for  about 
Basin,  and 

'ashed  sheep, 
un  on  them, 
lillsides  that 
like  to  recall 
:he  wind  that 
t  to  mind  the 
fc.) 

inhabitants, 
ged  in  ship- 

The  Dighy 
Provinces  as 

currents  of 
1  account  of 
i  sporting  in 
lotel.  There 
ownship  was 
e  of  Conway 
ud  also  from. 

stance  seems 
\Q  nin  by  the 
1  a  width  of 
ridges  of  the 
of  6 -700  ft., 
is  from  300 
he  North  Mt. 
ith  Mt.  is  of 
at  the  North 
I  through  the 
in  and  Digby 
a  water-shed, 
napolis  Basin 
J  Blue  Moun- 
eriodically  to 
rated  places, 


liUa  of  the  An- 

wo  were  about 

)f  Nova  Scotia. 

the  most  bean- 

the  husband- 


man   a  land  of  fnir  meadows,  orchards,  and  vines It  wa«  not  until  we  had 

travelled  over  the  rest  of  the  country  thot  we  saw  the  approprjatencss  of  tlie 
designation.  The  explanation  is,  that  not  so  much  is  required  of  a  garden  here  as 
in  some  other  parts  of  the  world." 

Soon  after  leaving  Digby,  Bear  Island  is  seen  in-shore  on  the  r.,  in  front 
of  the  little  port  oi  Bear  River  (inn),  which  has  a  foundry,  tanneries,  and 
saw-mills.  Iron  and  gold  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  lumber  r  id  cord- 
wood  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  A  few 
miles  beyond,  and  also  on  the  S.  shore,  is  the  hamlet  of  Clementsport  (two 
inns),  where  large  iron-works  were  formerly  established,  in  connection 
with  the  or3-beds  to  the  S.  Roads  lead  thence  to  the  S.  W.  in  10  - 12  M. 
to  the  romantic  districts  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  the  upper  Liverpool  Lakes 
(see  Route  27),  at  whose  entrance  is  the  rural  village  of  Ckmentsvale. 

8-10  M.  bej'ond  Digby  the  steamer  passes  Goat  Island,  of  which 
Lescarbot  writes,  in  Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvdle  France  (1609) : 

"  Adieu  nion  doux  plaisir  fonteincs  ct  ruisseaux, 
Qui  Ics  vaux  et  les  luonts  arruust* z  de  vos  eaux. 
Pourray-je  t'oublier,  belle  ile  fort-tiere 
Richc  hunneur  de  ce  Ueu  et  de  cette  riviere  ?" 

In  1707  the  British  frigate  Annibal  and  two  brigautines  were  sailing  up  the  Basin  to 
attack  Annapolis,  when  they  met  sucli  a  sharp  volley  from  the  lie  aux  Chevres  that 
they  were  forced  to  retire  in  confusion.  The  French  name  of  the  island  was  Angli- 
cized by  translation.  On  the  point  near  this  island  was  the  first  settlement  of  the 
French  in  Nova  Scotia.  A  fort  waa  erected  here  by  the  Scottish  pioneers,  and  was 
restored  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of  St.  Germain,  after  which  it  was  garrisoned  by 
French  troops.  In  1827  a  stone  block  was  found  on  the  point,  inscribed  'vith  a 
square  and  compass  and  the  date  "  1606."  In  May,  1782,  there  was  a  naval  combat 
off  Goat  Island,  in  which  an  American  war-brig  of  8  guns  was  captured  by  H.  M.  S. 
Buckram . 

'  Above  the  island  the  Basin  is  about  1  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  farm- 
streets.  To  the  N.  E.,  across  a  low  alluvial  point,  are  seen  the  spires  and 
ramparts  of  Annapolis  Royal,  where  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf, 
after  passing  under  the  massive  walls  of  the  old  fortress.  There  ai'e  sev- 
eral inns  here,  of  which  the  American  House  is  perhaps  the  best.  The 
Grange  is  about  1  M.  from  the  pier,  and  is  an  old  country  mansion,  in 
broad  and  shady  grounds,  now  used  as  a  summer  hotel.  There  is  also  a 
restaurant  near  the  railway-station.  Stages  run  from  Annapolis  to  Digby 
(Annapolis  to  Clementsport,  8J  M.;  Victoria  Bridge,  13i;  Smith's  Cove, 
16  ;  Digby,  20^  ;—  Yarmouth,  87i).  Stages  also  run  &.  E.  78  M.  (semi- 
weekly)  to  Liverpool  (see  Route  27). 

Annapolis  Boyal,  the  capital  of  Annapolis  County,  is  a  maritime  and 
agricultural  village,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  con- 
tains 5-600  inhabitants.  It  is  frequented  by  summer  visitors  on  account 
of  its  pleasant  environs  and  tempered  sea-air,  and  the  opportunities  for  salt- 
water fishing  in  the  Basin,  and  trouting  among  the  hills  to  the  S.  The 
chief  object  of  interest  to  the  passing  traveller  is  the  *oU  fortress  which 
fronts  the  Basin  and  covers  28  acres  with  its  ramparts  and  outworks.  It 
is  entered  by  the  waj  of  the  fields  opposite  Perkins's  Hotel.  The  works 
are  disarmed,  and  have  remained  unoccupied  for  many  years.    One  of  the 


hfn 


i>  V' 


m 


i 


'i!    s 


fiii 
iiii 


86      Moute  IS. 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


last  occupations  was  that  of  the  Piflc  Brigade,  in  1850;  but  the  post  was 
abandoned  soon  after,  on  account  of  the  numerous  and  successful  deser- 
tions which  thinned  the  ranks  of  the  garrison.  But  when  Canada  passed 
into  n  state  of  semi-independence  in  1867,  this  fortress  was  one  of  the  few 
domains  reserved  to  tlic  British  Crown.  Tlie  inner  fort  is  entered  by  nn 
ancient  arcliway  which  fronts  towards  the  Basin,  giving  passage  to  tlic 
parade-ground,  on  wliicli  are  tlie  quaint  old  English  barracks,  with  steep 
roofs  and  great  chimneys.  In  the  S.  E.  bastion  is  the  magazine,  with  a 
vaulted  roof  of  masonry,  near  which  are  the  foundations  of  the  French 
barracks.  From  the  parapet  on  this  side  are  overlooked  the  landward  out- 
works and  the  lines  of  the  old  Hessian  and  Waldecker  settlements  towards 
Clementsport.  On  the  hillside  beyond  the  marsh  is  seen  an  ancient  house 
of  the  era  of  the  French  occupation,  the  only  one  now  standing  in  the  val- 
ley. In  the  bastion  towards  the  river  is  a  vaulted  room,  whence  a  passage 
leads  down  to  the  P'rench  garrison-wharf;  but  the  arched  way  has  fallen 
in,  and  the  wharf  is  now  but  a  shapeless  pile  of  stones.  The  *  view  from 
this  angle  of  the  works  is  very  beautiful,  including  the  villages  of  Annapo- 
lis Royal  and  Granville,  the  sombre  heights  of  the  North  and  South  Mts., 
and  the  Basin  for  many  miles,  with  Goat  Island  in  the  distance. 

The  road  which  leads  by  the  fortress  passes  the  old  garrison  cemetery, 
St.  Luke's  Church,  the  court-house  and  county  academy,  and  many 
quaint  and  antiquated  mansions.  A  ferry  crosses  the  Annapolis  River  to 
Granville  (two  inns),  a  busy  little  shipbuilding  village,  with  3-400 
inhabitants  and  three  churches.  A  road  leads  hence  across  the  North 
Mt.  in  4-5  M.,  to  the  hamlets  oi Hillsburn  and  Leitchfield,  on  the  Bay  of 
Fundy. 

"  Without  the  historic  light  of  French  adventure  upon  tins  town  and  basin  of 
Annapolis  ....  I  confess  that  I  should  have  no  longing  to  stay  here  for  a  week  ; 
notwithstanding  the  guide-book  distinctly  says  that  this  harbor  has  '  a  striking  re- 
semblance to  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Naples.'  I  am  not  offended  at  this  remark,  for  it 
is  the  one  always  made  about  a  harbor,  and  I  am  sure  the  passing  traveller  can  stand 
it,  if  the  Bay  of  Naples  can."    (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

The  Basin  of  Annapolis  was  first  entered  in  1604:  by  De  Monts's  fleet,  exploring  the 
shores  of  Acadie ;  and  the  beauty  of  the  scene  so  impressed  the  Baron  de  Pou- 
trincourt  that  he  secured  a  gi'ant  here,  and  named  it  Port  Royal.  After  the  failure 
of  the  colony  at  St.  Croix  Island,  the  people  moved  to  this  point,  bringing  nil 
their  stores  and  supplies,  and  settl?d  on  the  N.  Jde  of  the  river.  In  July,  160G, 
Lescarbot  and  another  company  of  Frenchmen  joined  the  new  settlement,  and 
conducted  improvements  of  the  land,  while  Poutrincourt  and  Champlain  explored 
the  Massachusetts  coast.  400  Indians  had  been  gathered  by  the  sagamore  Member- 
tou  in  a  stockaded  village  near  the  fort,  and  all  went  on  well  iind  favorably  until  De 
Monts's  grant  was  annulled  by  the  King  of  France,  and  then  the  colony  was  aban- 
doned. Lescarbot  says  of  this  expedition,  and  of  Port  Royal  itself:  "  I  must  needs 
be  so  bold  as  to  tell  in  this  occurrence,  that  if  ever  that  country  be  inhabited 
with  Christians  and  civil  people ,  the  first  praise  thereof  mus*  of  right  be  due  to 
the  authors  of  this  voyage.  ....  Finally,  being  in  the  port,  it  was  unto  us  a 
thing  marvellous  to  see  the  fair  distance  and  the  largeness  of  it,  and  the  moun- 
tains and  hills  that  environed  it,  and  I  wondered  how  so  fair  a  place  did  remain 
desert,  being  all  filled  with  woods,  seeing  that  so  many  pine  away  in  the  world 
which  might  make  good  of  this  land,  if  only  they  had  a  chief  governor  to  conduct 
them  thither." 


I 


T 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


Route  18.      87 


he  post  wns 

ssful  desar- 
nada  passed 
e  of  the  few 
itered  by  nn 
spage  to  the 
3,  with  steep 
zine,  with  a 

the  French 
mdward  out- 
en  ts  towards 
nclent  house 
ig  in  the  val- 
ice  a  passage 
ly  has  fallen 
*  view  from 
sof  Annapo- 

South  Mts., 
ce. 
)n  cemetery, 

and  many 
lolls  River  to 
Avith  3-400 
ss  the  North 
in  the  Bay  of 

1  and  basin  of 
Rre  for  a  week ; 
'a  striking  rc- 
« remark,  for  it 
seller  can  stand 


t,  exploring  the 
Baron  de  Pou- 
fter  the  failure 
t,  bringing  nil 
In  July,  160G, 
ettlement,  and 
iplain  explored 
imore  Member- 
orably  until  Le 
tony  was  aban- 
■'  I  must  needs 
f  be  inhabited 
ight  be  due  to 
was  unto  us  a 
md  the  moun- 
Eice  did  reniniu 
Y  in  the  world 
lor  to  conduct 


Four  years  later  the  brave  Baron  de  Poutrincourt  left  his  estates  in  Champagne, 
with  a  deep  cargo  of  supitlies,  descended  the  rivers  Aube  and  Seine,  and  sailed  out 
from  Dieppe  (Feb.  26, 1610)  On  arriving  at  Port  Royal,  everything  was  found  aa 
when  left :  and  the  work  of  proselyting  the  Indians  was  at  once  entered  on.  Mem- 
bertou  and  his  tribe  were  c  verted,  baptized,  and  feasted,  amid  salutes  from  the 
cannon  and  the  chanting  of  lue  Te  Deum ;  and  numerous  other  forest-clans  soon 
followed  thD  same  course. 

Poutrincourt  was  a  Galilean  Catholic,  and  hated  the  Jesuits,  but  was  forced  to 
take  out  two  of  them  to  his  new  domain.  They  assumed  a  high  authority  there, 
but  were  sternly  rebuked  by  the  Baron,  who  said,  "It  is  my  part  to  rule  you  on 
earth,  and  yours  only  to  guide  me  to  heaven."  They  threatened  to  lay  Port  Royal 
under  interdict:  and  Poutrincourt's  son  and  successor  so  greatly  resented  this  that 
they  left  the  colony  on  a  mission  ship  sent  out  by  the  Marchioness  de  Ouercheville, 
and  founded  St.  Sauveur,  on  the  island  of  Mount  Desert.  In  1613,  after  the  Vir- 
ginians under  Capt.  Argall  had  destroyed  St.  Sauveur,  the  vengef\il  Jesuits  piloted 
their  fleet  to  Port  Royal,  which  was  completely  demolished.  Poutrincourt  came 
out  in  1614  only  to  find  his  colony  in  ruins,  and  the  remnant  of  the  people  wandering 
in  the  forest ;  and  was  so  disheartened  that  ho  returned  to  France,  where  he  was 
killed,  the  next  year,  in  the  battle  of  Mcry-sur-Seine. 

It  is  a  memorable  fact  that  these  attacks  of  the  Virginians  on  Mount  Desert  and 
Port  Royal  were  the  very  commencement  of  the  wars  between  Great  Britain  and 
France  in  North  America,  "  whicli  scarcely  ever  entirely  cea.sed  until,  at  the  cost  of 
infinite  blood  and  treasure,  France  was  stripped  of  all  her  possessions  in  America  by 
the  peace  of  1763." 

Between  1620  and  1630  an  ephemeral  Scotti.<<h  colony  was  located  at  Port  Royal, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  French.  In  1628  the  place  was  captured  by  Sir  David 
Kirk,  with  an  English  fleet,  and  was  left  in  ruins.  In  1G34  it  was  granted  to  Claude 
de  Razilly,  "  Seigneur  de  Razilly,  des  Eaux  Mesles  et  Cuon,  en  Anjou,"  who  after- 
wards became  commandant  of  Oleron  and  vice-admiral  of  France.  He  was  a  bold 
naval  officer,  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu  ;  and  his  brother  Isaac  commanded  at 
Lahave  (see  Route  25).  His  lieutenants  were  D'Aulnay  Churnisay  and  Charles  de  la 
Tour,  and  he  transferred  all  his  Acadian  estates  to  the  former,  in  1642,  after  which 
began  the  feudal  wars  between  those  two  nobles  (see  page  19).  Several  fleets  sailed 
from  Port  Royal  to  attack  La  Tour,  at  St.  John ;  and  a  Boston  fleet,  in  alliance  with 
La  Tour,  assailed  Port  Royal. 

In  1654  the  town  was  under  the  rule  of  Emmanuel  le  Borgne,  a  merchant  of  La 
Kochelle,  who  had  succeeded  to  D'Aulnay 's  estates,  by  the  aid  of  C6sar,  Duke  of 
Vend3me,  on  account  of  debts  due  to  him  from  the  Acadian  lord.  Laier  in  the 
same  year  the  fortress  was  taken  by  a  fleet  seat  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  but  the  in- 
habitants of  the  valley  were  not  disturbed. 

By  the  census  of  1671  there  were  361  souls  at  Port  Royal,  with  over  1,000  head  of 
live-stock  and  364  acres  of  cultivated  land.  In  1684  the  fishing-fleet  of  the  port  was 
captured  by  English  "  corsairs  "  ;  and  in  1686  there  were  622  souls  in  the  town.  In 
161)0  the  fort  contained  18  cannon  and  86  soldiers,  and  was  taken  and  pillaged  by 
Sir  William  Phipps,  who  sailed  from  Boston  with  3  war-vessels  and  700  men.  A 
few  months  later  it  was  plundered  by  corsairs  from  the  West  Indies,  and  in  1691 
the  Chevalier  do  Villebon  took  the  fort  in  the  nsime  of  France.  Baron  La  Hontan 
wrote :  "  Port  Royal,  the  capital,  or  the  only  city  of  Acadia,  is  in  effect  no  more 
than  a  little  paltry  town  that  is  somewhat  enlarged  since  the  war  broke  out  in  1689 
by  the  accession  of  the  inhabitants  that  lived  near  Boston,  the  metropolitan  of  New 
England.  It  subsists  upon  the  traffic  of  the  skins  which  the  savages  bring  thither 
to  truck  for  European  goods."  In  the  summer  of  1707  the  fortress  was  attacked  by 
2  regiments  and  a  small  fleet,  from  Boston,  and  siege  operations  were  commenced. 
An  attempt  at  storming  the  works  by  night  was  frustrated  by  M.  de  Subercase'a 
vigilance  and  the  brisk  fire  of  the  French  artillery,  and  the  besiegers  were  finally 
forced  to  retire  with  severe  loss.  A  few  weeks  later  a  second  expedition  from  Massa- 
chusetts attacked  the  works,  but  after  a  siege  of  15  d<ays  their  camps  were  stormed 
by  the  Baron  de  St.  Castin  and  the  Chevalier  de  la  Boularderie,  and  the  feebly  led 
Americans  were  driven  on  board  their  ships.  Subercase  then  enlarged  the  fortress, 
made  arrangements  to  run  off  slaves  from  Boston,  and  planned  to  capture  Rhode 
Island,  "which  is  inhabited  by  rich  Quakers,  and  is  the  resort  of  rascals  and  even 
pirates." 

In  the  autumn  of  1710  the  frigates  Dragon,  Chester,  Falmouth,  Leostaffe,  Fevers- 
ham,  Star,  and  Province,  with  20  transports,  left  Boston  and  sailed  to  Port  Royal. 


88      Route  IS.        THE  ANNAPOLIS  VALLEY. 


ill'  r 


There  were  2  regiments  from  Mapsachupetts,  2  from  the  rest  of  New  England,  and  I 
of  Royal  Marines.  Altor  the  erection  of  mortar-batteries,  several  days  were  spent 
in  bombarding  the  fort  from  the  fleet  and  the  siege-lines,  but  the  lire  from  the  ram- 
parts was  kept  up  steadily  until  the  garrison  were  on  tiie  verge  of  starvation  ;  Suber- 
case  then  surrendered  his  forces  (2G8  men),  who  were  shipped  olT  to  France,  and 
Gen.  Nicholson  changed  the  name  of  Port  Uoyal  to  Annapolis  Roval,  in  honor  of 
Queen  Anne,  then  sovereign  of  (Jreat  IJritiiin. 

In  1711,  80  New-Englandcrs  from  the  garrison  were  cut  to  pieces  at  Bloody  Brook, 
12  M.  up  tlie  river,  and  the  fortress  was  then  invested  by  the  Acadians  and  Micmacs. 
For  nearly  40  years  afterwards  Annapolis  was  almost  always  in  a  state  of  siege,  being 
menaced  from  time  to  time  by  the  disaffected  Acadians  and  their  savage  allies.  In 
1744  the  non-combatants  were  sent  to  Boston  for  safety ,  and  in  July  of  that  year  tiio 
fort  was  beleaguered  by  a  force  of  fanatic  Catholics  under  the  Abb6  Laloutre.  Five 
companies  of  Ma.'f.sichusetts  troops  soon  joined  the  garrison,  and  the  besiegers  were 
reinforced  by  French  regulars  from  Louisbourg.  The  siege  wa.s  continued  for  nearly 
three  mouths,  but  C>ov.  Mascnrene  showed  a  bold  front,  and  provisions  and  men 
came  in  from  Boston.  The  town  was  destroyed  by  the  artillery  of  the  fort  and  by 
incendiary  sorties,  since  it  served  to  shelter  the  hostile  riflemen.  Soon  after  Duvivier 
and  Laloutre  had  retired,  two  French  frigates  entered  the  Basin  and  captured  some 
Bblps  of  Massachusetts,  but  left  four  days  before  Tyng's  Boston  squadron  arrived. 
A  year  later,  De  llamezay  menaced  the  fort  with  700  men,  but  was  easily  beaten  off 
by  the  garrison,  aided  by  the  frigates  Chester,  60,  and  Shirley,  20,  which  were  lying 
iu  the  Basin.  After  the  deportation  of  the  Acadians,  Annapolis  remained  in  peace 
until  1781,  when  two  American  war-vessels  ascended  the  Basin  by  night,  surprised 
and  captured  the  fortress  and  spiked  its  guns,  and  plundered  every  house  in  the 
town,  after  locking  the  citizens  up  in  the  old  block-house. 


The  Annapolis  Valley. 

This  pretty  district  has  suffered,  like  the  St.  John  River,  from  the  absurdly  ex- 
travagant descriptions  of  its  local  admirers,  and  its  depreciation  by  Mr.  Warner  (see 
page  84)  expresses  the  natural  reaction  which  must  be  felt  by  travellers  (unless  they 
are  from  Newfoundland  o^  Labrador)  after  comparing  the  actual  valley  with  these 
high-tlown  paneg^rl"?.  A  recent  Provincial  writer  says :  "  The  route  of  the  Wind- 
sor &  Annapolis  Ruil'vay  lies  through  a  magnificent  farming-country  whose  beauty 
is  so  great  that  we  exhaust  the  English  language  of  its  adjectives,  and  are  compelled 
to  revert  to  the  quaint  old  French  whicli  was  spoken  by  the  early  settlers  of  this 
Garden  of  Canada,  in  our  efforts  to  describe  it."  In  point  of  fact  the  Annapolis 
region  is  far  inferior  either  in  beauty  or  fertility  to  the  valleys  of  the  Nashua,  the 
Schuylkill,  the  Shenandoah,  and  scores  of  other  familiar  streams  which  have  been 
described  without  effusion  and  without  impressing  the  service  of  alien  languages. 
The  Editor  walked  through  p-  considerable  portion  of  this  valley,  in  the  process  of  a 
closer  analysis  of  its  features,  and  found  a  tranquil  and  commonplace  farming- 
district,  devoid  of  salient  points  of  interest,  and  occupied  by  an  insufficient  popula- 
tion, among  whose  hamlets  he  found  unvarying  and  honest  hospitality  and  kiud- 
ness.  It  is  a  peaceful  rural  land,  hemmed  in  between  liigh  and  monotonous  ridges, 
blooming  during  its  brief  summer,  and  will  rifford  a  series  of  pretty  views  and  pleas- 
ing suggestions  to  the  traveller  whose  expectations  have  not  been  raised  beyond 
bounds  by  the  exaggerated  praises  of  well-meaning,  but  injudicious  authors. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  apples  of  the  Annapolis  Valley  are  the  best  in  America,  and 
60,000  barrels  are  exported  yearly,  —  many  of  which  are  sold  in  the  cities  of  Great 
Britain.  The  chief  productions  of  the  district  are  hay,  cheese,  and  live-stock,  a  large 
proportion  of  which  is  exported. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Annapolis  over  the  lowlands,  and  takes 
a  course  to  the  N.  E.,  near  the  old  highway.  Bridgetown  {Graniille 
House)  is  the  first  important  statio..,  and  is  14  M.  from  Annapolis,  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  river.  It  has  about  1,000  inhabitants,  4  churches, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  is  situated  in  a  district  of  apple  orchards 
and  rich  pastures.    Some  manufacturing  is  done  on  the  water-power  of 


WILMOT  SPRINGS. 


lioute  IS.      89 


ngland,  and  1 
lyM  were  speut 
fmni  the  rani- 
i^tition  ;  Sulicr- 
f)  I'rnncc,  nml 
L,  in  honor  of 

Bloody  Brook, 
and  Micniacs. 
of  siege,  being 
ipo  allies.     In 

that  jear  the 
alontre.  Five 
hcsiejrers  were 
ued  for  nearly 
ions  and  men 
0  fort  and  by 
after  Duvivier 
captured  Fonie 
adion  arrived. 
*ily  beaten  off 
ich  were  lying 
lined  in  peace 
ight,  surpri.'cd 

house  in  the 


e  absurdly  cx- 
r.  Warner  (see 
rs  (unless  they 
lley  with  these 
c  of  the  Wind- 
whose  beauty 
1  are  compelled 
cottiers  of  this 
the  Annapolis 
lie  Nashua,  the 
I  ich  have  been 
ien  languages. 
lic  process  of  a 
place  farming- 
Bicient  popula- 
ility  and  kind- 
)tonous  ridges, 
ews  and  pleas- 
raised  beyond 
uthors. 

I  America,  and 
cities  of  Great 
e-stock,alargo 


is,  find  takes 
n  {Granville 
ipolis,  at  the 
,  4  churches, 
pie  orchards 
ter-powcr  of 


the  Annapolis  River;  and  the  surrounding  country  is  well  populated,  and 
ia  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  healtliicst  districts  in  Nova  Scotia.  To  tho 
S.  is  Bloody  Brook,  where  a  detachment  of  New-Englund  troops  was  mas- 
sacred !iy  the  French  and  Indians;  and  rouds  lead  up  over  tho  South  Mt. 
into  the  howling  wilderness  of  the  interior.  5  M.  from  Bridgetown,  over 
the  North  Mt.,  is  the  obscure  marine  hamlet  of  Hampton. 

Paradise  (small  inn)  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village  of  about  400  inhab- 
itants, with  several  saw  and  grist  mills  and  tanneries.  The  principal  ex- 
ports are  lumber  and  cheese,  though  there  are  also  lavp^e  deposits  of  mer- 
chantable granite  in  the  vicinity.  A  road  crosses  the  North  ^It.  to  Port 
Williams,  7  M.  distant,  a  fishing-village  of  about  300  inhabitants,  situated 
on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  coast  is  illuminated  here,  at  Hig!;t,  by  two 
white  lights.     Farther  down  the  shore  is  tho  hamlot  of  St.  Croix  Cove. 

Lawrencetown  is  a  prosperous-  village  of  about  600  inhabitants,  whence 
much  lumber  is  exported.  In  1754,  20,000  acres  in  this  vicinity  were 
granted  to  20  gentlemen,  who  named  their  new  domain  in  honor  oi'  Gov. 
Lawrence.  8  M.  distant,  on  the  summit  of  the  North  Mt.,  is  the  hamlet 
of  Havelock,  beyond  which  is  the  farming  settlement  of  ^ft.  Ilawley,  near 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.  New  Albany  {9,mvi\\  inn)  is  a  forest-village  8-10  M. 
S.  PI  of  Lawrencetown;  and  about  10  M.  farther  into  the  great  central 
wilderness  is  the  farming  district  of  Sjiringfield,  beyond  the  South  Mt. 

Jl/tJcWe<ora(Middleton  Hotel)  is  a  small  village  near  the  old  iron-mines  on 
the  South  Mt.  A  few  miles  S.  of  Middleton  are  tlie  Nictau  Falls,  a  pretty 
cascade  on  a  small  mountain-stream.  1^  M.  from  Middleton  is  the  ham- 
Iqt  o{  Lower  Middleton,  surrounded  by  orchards,  with  an  Anglican  church, 
and  a  seminary  for  young  ladies.  Wilmot  station  is  ^  M.  from  Farming- 
ton  (two  inns),  a  pleasant  little  Presbyterian  village.  Marffai'etsville  {Rar- 
ris's  Hotc')  is  7  M.  distant,  across  the  North  Mt,  and  is  a  shipbuilding  and 
fishing  settlement  of  300  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Fruit 
and  lumber  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States.  Near  this  point  is  a 
fixed  red  light  of  high  power. 

The  Wilinot  Springs  are  about  3  M.  from  Fannington,  and  have,  for  many 
years,  enjoyed  a  local  celebrity  for  their  efficacy  in  healing  cutaneous  diseases  and 
vrounda.  They  were  formerly  much  resorted  to,  but  are  now  nearly  abandoned, 
though  bathing-houses  and  other  accommodations  are  kept  here.  The  springs  are 
situated  in  a  grove  of  tall  trees  near  the  road,  filling  two  large  basins  ;  and  the  water 
is  cold,  clear,  and  nearly  tasteless.  The  principal  ingredients  are,  in  each  gallon : 
78  grains  of  sulphuiic  acid,  54V  grains  of  lime,  6  grains  of  soda  and  pota.<<h,  and  3 
grains  of  magnesia.  A  few  visitors  pass  the  summer  at  Wilmot  every  year,  on  ac- 
count of  the  benefits  resulting  from  the  use  of  these  waters. 

Kingston  station  is  1^  M.  from  Kingston,  2  M.  from  Melvern  Square,  2^ 
M.  from  Tremont,  and  4  M.  from  Prince  William  Street,  rural  hamlets  in 
the  valley.  From  Morden  Road  station  a  highway  runs  N.  W.  7  M.  across 
the  North  Mt.  to  the  little  port  of  Morden,  or  French  Cross  (Balcomb's 
Hotel),  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Station  Aylesford  (Patterson's  Hotel),  a 
small  hamlet  from  which  a  road  runs  S.  E.  to  Factory  Dale  (4  M.),  a  man- 


90      Route  IS. 


KENTVILLE. 


1    i 


ufacturlng  hntnlet  whence  the  valley  is  overlooked ;  nnd  the  farming  towns 
of  Jacksonville  and  Monisloion  arc  G  -  7  M.  away,  on  the  top  of  the  South  Mt. 

I<ake  George  (HaWr.  inn)  isl2M.  distant,  whence  the  great  forent-bound  chain 
of  the  Ayle^fonl  Lakes  may  bo  visited.  The  chief  of  these  iH  Kempt  Lake, 
Tvhicli  is  (ibout  7  M.  lou^.  A  road  runs  8.  from  tliu  Lake  George  settlement  by  Luke 
Paul  and  Owl  I^akc  to  Falkland  (32  M.  from  Aylesford),  which  is  on  the  great  Luke 
Bherbrookc,  in  Latienl)urg  County,  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Gold  River. 

"  Tlic  great  Aylesford  sand-plain  folks  call  it,  in  a  ginnil  way,  the  Devil's  Goote 
Pasture.  It  is  l3  M.  long  and  7  M.  wide ;  it  ain't  just  drifting  sands,  but  it 's  all 
but  that,  it 's  so  barren.  It 's  uneven,  or  wavy,  like  the  swell  of  the  sea  in  a  calm, 
and  is  covered  with  short,  thin,  dry,  course  grass,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  a 
half-starved  bircli  and  a  stunted  misshapen  spruce.    It  is  jest  about  as  silent  and 

lonesome  and  desolate  a  place  as  you  would  wish  to  see All  that  country 

thereabouts,  as  1  Iiavo  heard  tell  when  I  was  a  boy,  was  once  owned  by  the  Lord, 
the  king,  and  the  devil.  The  glebe-lands  belonged  to  the  first,  the  ungranted  wil- 
dcrncss-lands  to  the  second,  and  the  sand-plain  fell  to  the  share  of  tlio  last  (and 

Eeoplo  do  say  the  old  gentleman  was  rather  done  in  the  division,  but  tliat  is  neither 
ere  nor  there),  and  so  it  Is  called  to  this  day  the  DeviVa  Goose  Pasture.^'' 

Station,  Berwick  (two  inns),  a  prosperous  village  of  400  inhabitants, 
where  the  manufacture  of  shoes  is  carried  on.  A  road  leads  to  the  N.  W. 
7  M.  across  Pleasant  Valley  and  the  Black  Rock  Mt,  to  Harborville,  a  ship- 
building village  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whence  large  quantities  of  cordwood 
and  potatoes  are  shipped  to  the  United  States.  Several  miles  farther  up 
the  bay-shore  is  the  village  of  Canada  Creek,  near  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

At  Berwick  the  line  enters  the  *  Cornwallis  Valley,  which  is  shorter 
but  much  more  picturesque  than  that  of  Annapolis.  Following  the  course 
of  the  Cornwallis  River,  the  line  approaches  the  base  of  the  South  Mt., 
while  the  North  Mt.  trends  away  to  the  N.  E.  at  an  ever-increasing  angle. 
Beyond  the  rural  stations  of  Waterville,  Cambridge,  and  Coldbrook,  the 
train  reaches  Kentville  {Webster  Home ;  restaurant  in  the  station),  the 
headquarters  of  the  railway  and  the  capital  of  Kings  County.  This  town 
has  1,000  inhabitants,  4  churches,  and  a  weekly  newspaper;  and  there  are 
several  mills  and  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Raw  umber  and  manganese 
have  been  found  here.  The  roads  to  the  N.  across  the  mountain  lead  to 
the  maritime  hamlets  of  Hall's  Harbor  (10  M.),  Chipman's  Brook  (14  M.), 
and  Baxter's  Harbor  (12  M.);  also  to  Sheffield  Mills  (7  M.),  Canning 
(8  M.),  Steam  Mills  (2  M.),  and  Billtown  (6  M.).  . 

Kentville  to  Chester. 

The  Royal  mail-stages  leave  Kentville  at  6  A.  m.  on  Monday  and  Thursday,  reach- 
ing Chester  in  the  afternoon.  The  return  trip  is  made  on  Tuesday  and  Friday.  The 
distance  between  Kentville  and  Chester  is  46  M.,  and  the  intervening  country  is 
wild  and  picturesque.  After  passing  the  South  Mt.  by  the  Mill-Brook  Volley,  at 
8-10  M.  from  Kentville,  the  road  runs  near  the  Gaspereaux  Lake,  a  beautiful 
forest-loch  about  6  M.  long,  with  many  islands  and  highly  diversified  shores.  This 
water  is  connected  by  short  straits  with  the  island-studded  Two-Mile  Loke  and  tiie 
Four-Mile  Lake,  near  which  are  the  romantic  Aylesford  Lakes.  E.  and  S.  E.  of 
the  Ga.spereaux  Lake  are  the  trackless  solitudes  of  the  far-spreading  Blue  Mts., 
amid  whose  recesses  are  the  lakelets  where  the  Gold  River  takes  its  rise.  At  20  M. 
from  Kentville  the  stage  enters  the  Episcopal  village  of  New  Ross  (Turner's  Hotel), 
at  the  cros.sing  of  the  Dalhousic  lioad  from  Il.ilifax  to  Ann.apoHs.  From  this  point 
the  stage  descends  the  valley  of  the  Gold  River  to  Cht>st€r  (see  Route  24). 


I 


WINDSOR. 


LodU  18.      91 


'ng  towns 
0  South  Mt. 

bound  chain 
Kempt  Lake, 
ment  by  Lake 
lie  great  Lake 
liver. 

Devil's  Ooo«e 

I,  but  it's  all 

ea  in  a  calm, 

there  with  a 

as  silent  and 

that  country 

by  the  Lord, 

ugranted  wil- 

tlio  last  (and 

;hat  is  neither 

re." 

inhabitants, 
o  the  N.  W. 
Tille,  a  ship- 
of  cord  wood 
3  farther  up 
lighthouse, 
h  is  shorter 
g  the  course 
I  South  Mt, 
asing  angle. 
Idbrook,  the 
station),  the 
This  town 
-nd  there  are 
manganese 
tain  lead  to 
Dok  (14  M.), 
'.),  Canning 


irsday,  reach- 
Friday.  The 
)g  country  is 
ok  Valley,  at 
,  a  beautiful 
shores.  This 
Liakc  and  tlie 
md  S.  E.  of 
g  Blue  Mts., 
i.  At  20  M. 
ner's  Hotel), 
m  this  point 
')• 


5*1 


The  Halifax  train  runs  E.  from  Kentville  down  the  Cornwallis  Valley  to 
Port  Williams,  which  is  1^  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name,  whence  daily 
Btnges  run  to  Canning.  The  next  station  is  Wolfvillc,  from  which  the  Land 
of  Kvangclino  may  most  easily  be  visited  (.see  Route  22).  The  buildings 
of  Acadia  College  are  seen  on  the  hill  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Wolfville  with  the  wide  expanse  of  the 

rccluimed  meadows  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  Cape  Blomidon,  looming 

leagues  away.    In  a  few  minutes  tlio  train  reaches  Grand  Pr6,  and  as  it 

slows  up  before  stopping,  tlie  tree  is  seen  (on  the  1.  about  800  ft.  from  the 

track)  which  marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acadian  chapel.    Beyond  Ilor- 

ion  Landing  the  Gaspereaux  River  is  crossed,  and  the  line  begins  to  swing 

around  toward  the  S.  E.    At  Avmpovt  the  line  reaches  the  broad  Avon 

River,  and  runs  along  its  1.  bank  to  Ilantsport  (two  inns).    This  is  a 

largo  manufacturing  and  shipbuilding  village,  where  numerous  vessels 

are  owned.    In  the  vicinity  are  productive  quarries  of  freestone.    Mount 

Benson  station  is  near  the  hill  whose  off-look  Judge  Haliburton  so  highly 

extols:  — 

"  I  have  seen  at  dilTcrcnt  periods  of  my  life  a  good  deal  of  Europe  and  much  of 
America;  but  I  have  seldom  seen  anything  to  be  compared  with  the  view  of  the 
Basin  of  .Minos  and  its  adjacent  landscape, as  it  presents  itself  to  you  on  your  a.sccnt 

of  Mount  Denson Ho  who  travels  on  this  continent,  and  docs  not  spend  a  few 

days  on  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  and  extraordinary  bai^in,  may  bo  said  to  have 
mis.«ed  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  on  this  side  of  the  water." 

The  next  station  is  Falmouth,  in  a  region  which  abounds  in  gypsum. 
Back  toward  Central  Falmouth  there  are  prolific  orchards  of  apples.  The 
line  now  crosses  the  Avon  River  on  the  most  costly  bridge  in  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  over  the  singular  tides  of  this  system  of  waters. 

The  traveller  who  passes  from  Annapolis  to  Windsor  at  the  hours  of  low-tide  will 
sympathize  with  the  author  of  "  Baddcck,"  who  says  that  the  Avon  "  would  have 
been  a  charming  river  if  there  had  been  a  drop  of  water  in  it.  I  never  knew  before 
how  mucli  water  adds  to  a  river.  Its  slimy  bottom  was  quite  a  ghastly  spectacle, 
an  ugly  rent  in  the  land  that  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide. 
I  should  think  it  would  be  confu.sing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  first  one  way  aud 
then  the  other  and  then  vani.shes  altogether." 

The  remarkable  tides  of  this  river  are  also  described  by  Mr.  Noble,  as  follows  : 
The  tide  was  out,  "  leaving  miles  of  black  "  (red)  "  river-bottom  entirely  bare,  with 
only  a  small  stream  coursing  through  in  a  serpentine  manner.  A  line  of  blue  water 
was  visible  on  the  northern  horizon.  After  an  absence  of  an  hour  or  so,  I  loitered 
backj  when,  to  my  surprise,  tliere  was  a  river  like  the  Hudson  at  Catskill,  running 
up  with  a  powerful  current.  The  high  wharf,  upon  which  but  a  short  time  before 
I  had  stood  and  surveyed  the  black,  unsightly  fields  of  mud,  was  now  up  to  its  mid* 
die  in  the  turbid  and  wh'rling  stream." 

Windsor  ( Clifton  House,  large  and  comfortable;  Avon  House)  is  a  cul- 
tured and  prosperous  village  of  2,715  inhabitants,  occupying  the  promon- 
tory at  the  intersection  of  the  Avon  and  St.  Croix  Rivers.  The  adjacent 
districts  of  Falmouth  and  St.  Croix  have  about  3,300  inhabitants.  There 
are  in  Windsor  7  churches,  a  bank,  and  several  manufactories ;  there  are 
also  several  busy  shipyards.  The  chief  exportation  of  Windsor  is  plaster 
of  Paris  and  gypsum,  large  quantities  of  which  are  used  in  the  United 


92      lioute  18. 


WINDSOR. 


'  1 


m. 


m 


States  for  fertilizing  the  soil.  Near  the  end  of  the  railway  bridge,  on  i 
projecting  hill,  is  the  Clifton  mansion,  formerly  the  home  of  the  genla 
and  witty  Thomas  C.  Haliburton  (born  at  Windsor  in  1797,  lb  years  i 
Judge  in  Nova  Scotia,  6  years  an  M.  P.  at  London,  and  died  in  1865),  th( 
author  of  the  "Sam  Slick"  books. 

On  the  knoll  over  the  village  are  the  crumbling  block-hoi^ses  and  eartli- 
works  of  Fort  Edward,  whence  is  obtained  a  pretty  view  down  the  widen 
ing  Avon  and  out  over  the  distant  Basin  of  Minas.  About  1  M.  from  the 
station,  on  a  hill  which  overlooks  the  fine  valley  of  the  Avon  and  its  un- 
cleared mouutain-rim,  are  the  plain  buildings  of  King's  College,  the  old 
est  college  now  existing  in  Canada. 

It  was  founded  in  1787,  and  chartered  by  King  George  III.  in  1802.  It  is  under  I 
the  control  and  patronage  of  the  Anglican  Church,  and  is  well  endowed  with  schol- 
arships, honors,  etc.,  but  has  only  5  professors  and  a  limited  number  of  students. 
The  Nova-Scotians  have  not  hitherto  sought  to  qualify  themselves  by  culture  and 
study  for  public  honors  and  preferments,  because  they  knew  that  all  the  offices  in 
the  Province  would  be  filled  by  British  carpet-baggers.  King's  College  has  also  a 
divinity  school  for  Episcopalian  students. 

The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  is  occupied  by  36  Christian  sects.  Of  its  inhabitants. 
C5,124  belong  to  the  Anglican  Church,  and  are  ministered  to  by  a  lord  bishop,  4 
canons,  8  rural  deans,  and  68  clergymen.  There  are  102,001  Catholics,  103,539  Pres- 
byterians,  73,430  Baptists,  41,751  Methodists,  and  4,958  Lutherans  (census  of  1871). 

The  site  of  Windsor  was  called  by  the  Indians  Pisiquid,  "  the  Junction  of  the 
Waters,"  and  the  adjacent  lowlands  were  settled  at  an  early  day  by  the  French,  who 
raised  large  quantities  of  wheat  and  exported  it  to  Boston.  The  French  settled  in 
this  vicinity  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  but  retired  far  into  the  interior 
at  the  time  of  tho  British  conquest.  Gov.  Lawrence  issued  a  proclamation  inviting 
settlers  to  ccme  in  from  New  England,  stating  that  "  100,000  acres  of  land  had  been 
cultivated  and  had  borne  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  hemp,  flax,  etc.,  for  the  last  cen- 
tury without  failure."  The  deserted  French  hamlets  were  occupied  in  1759-60  by 
families  from  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  and  their  descendants  still  possess 
the  land.  The  Rhode-Islanders  erected  the  township  of  Newport,  Massachusetts 
formed  Falmouth,  and  Windsor  was  granted  to  British  officers  and  was  fortified  in 
1759.  The  broad  rich  marshes  near  Windsor  had  attracted  a  large  Acadian  popula- 
tion, and  here  was  their  principal  church,  whose  site  is  still  venerated  by  the  Mic- 
mac  Indians. 

"  I  '•annot  recall  a  prettier  village  than  this.  If  you  doubt  my  word,  come  and 
Bee  it.  Yonder  we  discern  a  portion  of  the  Basin  of  Minas ;  around  us  are  the  rich 
meadows  of  Nova  Scotia.  Intellect  has  here  placed  a  crowning  college  upon  a  hill ; 
opulence  has  surrounded  it  with  picturesque  villas."  (Cozzins.)  Another  writer 
has  spoken  with  enthusiasm  of  Windsor's  "  wide  and  beautiful  environing  mead- 
ows and  the  hanging-gardens  of  mountain-forests  on  the  S.  and  W  " 

The  Halifax  train  sweeps  along  the  St.  Croix  River  around  Windsor, 
passing  (on  the  r.)  the  dark  buildings  of  King's  College,  on  a  hilltop,  with 
the  new  chapel  in  front  of  their  line.  The  character  of  the  landscape  be- 
gins to  change,  and  to  present  a  striking  contrast  with  the  agricultural 
regions  just  traversed. 

"  Indeed,  if  a  man  cau  live  on  rocks,  like  a  goat,  he  may  settle  anywhere  between 
Windsor  and  Halifax.  With  the  exception  of  a  wild  pond  or  two,  we  saw  nothing 
but  rocks  and  stunted  firs  for  forty-five  miles,  a  monotony  unrelieved  by  one  pic- 
turesque feature.  Then  we  longed  for  the  '  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia,'  and  understi-od 
what  is  meant  by  the  name."  (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

Beyond  Three-Mile  Plains  the  traui  reaches  Newport,  near  which  large 


r 


y  bridge,  on 
of  the  genia 
)7,  la  years 
i  in  1865),  th( 


'ses  and  eartli 
wn  the  widen 
1  M.  from  the 
on  and  its  lui. 
liege,  the  old 


02.  It  is  under 
)wed  with  schol- 
bcr  of  students. 
s  by  culture  and 
all  the  offices  ia 
)llege  has  also  a 

its  inhabitants, 
a  lord  bishop,  4 
cs,  103,539  Pres- 
census  of  1871). 

Junction  of  the 
the  French ,  who 
French  settled  in 
into  the  interior 
^ination  inviting 
if  land  had  been 
for  the  last  cen- 
l  in  1759-60  by 
ints  still  possess 
;,  Massachusetts 
.  was  fortified  in 
Acadian  popula- 
ted by  the  Mic- 

word,  come  and 
i  us  are  the  rich 
icge  upon  a  hill ; 
Another  writer 
ivironing  mead- 

>und  Windsor, 
a  hilltop,  Avith 
landscape  be- 
le  agricultural 


ywhere  between 
we  saw  nothing 
;ved  by  one  pic- 
and  understood 


Lr  which  large 


I! 


^1 


>l^ 


HALIFAX. 


Rcmte  19.       93 


quantities  of  gypsum  are  quarried  from  the  veins  in  the  soft  marly  sand- 
stone. Nearly  3,000  tons  of  this  fine  fibrous  mineral  are  shipped  yearly 
from  Newport  to  the  United  States.  To  the  N.  are  the  villages  of 
Brooklyn  (5  M.),  devoted  to  manufacturing;  Scotch  Village  (9  M.),  a 
farming  settlement;  and  Burlington,  on  the  Kennetcook  River  (10  M.). 
Chivirie  and  Walton,  20-22  M.  N.,  on  the  Basin  of  Minas,  are  accessible 
from  Newport  by  a  tri-weekly  conveyance.  The  train  passes  on  to  filers- 
house  (small  inn),  a  hamlet  clustered  around  a  furniture-factory  and 
lumber-mills.  2i  M.  distant  is  the  settlement  at  the  foot  of  the  Ardoise 
ML,  which  is  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the  Province,  and  overlooks 
Falmouth,  Windsor,  and  the  Basin  of  Minas.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Five-Island  Lake,  skirts  Uniacke  Lake,  with  Mt.  Uniacke  on  the  N.,  and 
stops  at  the  Mt.  Uniacke  station  (small  inn).  The  Mt.  Uniacke  estate  and 
i..cinsion  were  founded  more  than  50  years  ago  by  Richard  John  Uniacke, 
then  Attorney-General  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  house  occupies  a  picturesque 
position  between  two  rock-bound  lakes,  and  the  domain  has  a  hard- 
working tenantry.  The  3ft.  Uniacke  Gold-Mines  are  3  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion, and  were  opened  in  1865.  In  1869  the  mines  yielded  $37,340,  re 
$  345  to  each  workman,  being  6  ounces  and  4  pennyweights  from  each 
ton  of  ore.  For  the  next  10  M.  the  line  traverses  an  irredeemable  wil- 
derness, and  then  reaches  Beaver  Bank,  whence  lumber  and  slate  are 
exported.  At  Windsor  Junction  the  train  runs  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  (see  page  82),  which  it  follows  to  Halifax. 


w 


19.   Halifax. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  Cape  Sambro  is  usually  seen  first  by  the  passenger 
on  the  transatlantic  steamers,  and  Halifax  Harbor  is  soon  entered  between  the  light- 
houses on  Chebucto  Head  and  Devil  Island.  These  lights  are  7>^  M.  apart,  Chebucto 
(on  the  1.)  having  a  revolving  light  visible  for  18  M.,  and  Devil  Island  a  fixed  red 
light  on  a  brown  tower.  On  the  VV.  shore  the  fishing-hamlets  of  Portuguese  Cove, 
Bear  Cove,  and  Herring  Cove  are  passed  in  succession.  4  M.  S.  E.  of  Herring  Cove 
is  the  dangerous  Thrumcap  Shoal,  where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  La  Tribune,  44,  was 
■wrecked  in  1797,  and  nearly  all  her  people  were  lost,  partly  by  reason  of  an  absurd 
stretch  of  naval  punctilio.  Between  this  shoal  and  McNab's  Island  on  one  side,  and 
the  mainland  on  the  other,  is  the  long  and  narrow  strait  called  the  Eastern  Passage. 
In  1862  the  Confederate  cruiser  Tallahassee  was  blockaded  in  Halifax  Harbor  by  a 
squadron  of  United-Slates  frigates.  The  shallow  and  tortuous  Eastern  Passage  was 
not  watched,  since  nothing  but  small  fishing-craft  had  ever  traversed  it,  and  it  was 
considered  impassable  for  a  steamer  like  the  Tallahassee.  But  Capt.  Wood  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  high  tide,  on  a  dark  night,  and  crept  cautiously  out  behind  McNab'8 
Island.    By  daylight  he  was  far  out  of  sight  of  the  outwitted  blockading  fleet. 

2  51.  from  Herring  Cove  the  steamer  passes  Salisbury  Head,  and  runs  between  the 
Martello  Tower  and  lighthouse  on  Maugher  Beach  (r.  side)  and  the  York  Redoubt 
(1)^  M.  apart)  Near  the  Redoubt  is  a  Catholic  church,  and  a  little  above  is  the 
hamlet  of  Falkland,  with  its  Episcopal  church,  beyond  which  the  N.  W.  Arm  opens 
on  the  1.  Passing  between  the  batteries  on  McNab's  Island  and  Fort  Ogilvie,  on 
Point  Pleasant,  the  steamship  soon  runs  by  Fort  Clarence  and  the  fortress  on  George 
Island,  and  reaches  her  wharf  at  Halifax,  with  the  town  of  Dartmouth  and  the  great 
Insane  Asylum  on  the  opposite  shore. 

Arrival  by  KalUvay.  —  The  station  is  at  Richmond,  some  distance  from  the 
city,  but  passengers  can  go  in  either  by  carriage,  hotel-omnibus,  or  horse-car.  The 
riilway  is  now  being  prolonged  by  a  system  of  costly  works,  and  will  soon  reach  a 
terminus  within  the  city. 


'!!  i! 


,'■ 


h;-  ' 

Mi 

1               1 

94      iJoM^e  if?. 


HALIFAX. 


Hotels.  — The  *Halifax,  107  HoUis  St.,  $2  a  day;  the  *  International,  on  Hoi- 
lis  St.,  $1.75-2  a  day  ;  Carlton  House,  57  Argyle  St.,  small  but  aristocratic ;  Man- 
eion  House,  149  Barringtou  St. ;  Waverloy,  8  Barrington  St. ;  and  numerous  small 
eecond-clnss  houses,  of  which  the  Arlington  and  the  Cambridge,  nearly  opposite  the 
International,  are  the  best  situated  (3?  1-1.25  a  day).  An  attempt  is  now  being 
made  to  provide  for  Halifax  a  flrst-class  modern  hotel,  like  the  Victoria  at  St.  John. 

Restaurants*  —  One  of  the  best  is  that  connected  with  the  Acadian  Hotel,  64 
Granville  St.  Ices,  pastry,  and  confectionery  may  be  obtained  at  the  shops  on  Uol- 
lis  St.    American  beverages  are  compounded  at  the  bar  in  the  Halifax  House. 

Reading-Booms.  — The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  comer  of  Gran- 
ville  and  Prince  Sts. ;  the  Provincial  Library,  in  the  Parliament  Buildings ;  and  in 
the  two  chief  hotels.  The  Halifax  Library  is  at  197  Ilollis  St. ;  and  the  Citizens' 
Free  Library  (founded  by  Chief  Justice  Sir  William  Young)  is  at  2G5  Barrington  St., 
and  is  open  from  8  to  6  p.  m.  The  Merchants'  Exchange  and  Reading-Room  is  at 
158  Hollis  St. 

Clubs.  —  The  Hahfax  Club  has  an  elegant  house  at  155  Ilollis  St. ;  the  Albion  ig 
at  87  Hollis  St. ;  the  Catholic  Young  Men's  Club,  1  Grafton  St.  (open  from  2  to  10 
P.M.);  the  Highland,  North  British,  St.  George's,  Charitable  Irish,  and  Gerniania 
Societies.  The  Royal  Halifax  Yacht  Club  has  a  house  at  Richmond,  with  billiard 
and  reading  rooms,  and  a  line  of  piers  and  boat-houses  for  the  vessels  of  their  fleet. 

Amusements  of  various  kinds  are  afforded,  at  different  times,  in  the  Temper- 
ance Hall,  on  Starr  St.  During  the  winter  some  fine  skating  is  enjoyed  at  the  Rink, 
in  the  Public  Gardens.  Good  games  of  cricket  and  indifferent  base-ball  playing  may 
be  seen  on  the  Garrison  Cricket-ground.  But  Halifax  is  chiefly  famous  for  the  in- 
terest it  takes  in  trials  of  skill  between  yachtsmen  and  carsmen,  and  exciting  aquatic 
contests  occur  frequently  during  the  summer. 

Horse-cars  run  every  15  minutes,  from  6  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M.,  from  the  Richmond 
Station  to  the  Fresh- Water  Bridge,  traversing  the  Campbell  Road,  Upper  Wa  cr  St., 
Granville  St.,  Hollis,  Morris,  and  Pleasant  Sts.  Also  on  Barrington  St.  atd  the 
Spring  Garden  Road  to  the  Poor  Asylum. 

RaHways.  —  The  Intercolonial,  running  to  St.  John,  N.  B.,  in  276  M.  (see 
Routes  16  and  17),  and  to  Pictou  in  113  M.  (see  Route  31);  the  Windsor  &  Annap- 
olis, prolonged  by  a  steamship  connection  to  St.  John  (see  Route  18). 

Steamsliips.  — The  Allan  Line,  fortnightly,  for  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  Queenstown, 
and  Liverpool,  Norfolk,  and  Baltimore.  Fares,  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  $75  and 
$25;  to  Norfolk  or  Baltimore,  $20  and  $12.  The  Anchor  Line,  for  St.  John's, 
N.  F.,  and  Glasgow.  The  Royal  Mail  Steamers  Alpha  and  Delta  (Cunard  Line)  leave 
Halifax  for  Bermuda  and  St.  Thomas  every  fourth  Monday,  connecting  at  St.  Thomas 
with  steamships  for  all  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  Panama,  and  the  Spanish  Main. 

The  Carroll  and  Alhambra  leave  Esson's  Wharf  for  Boston  on  alternate  Satur- 
days. Fare,  $8;  with  state-room,  $9.  The  Falmouth  leaves  Dominion  Wharf 
for  Portland  every  Tuesday  at  4  p.  m.  This  vessel  is  nearly  new,  and  is  handsomely 
fitted  up  for  passenger-traffic.  Fares,  Halifax  to  Portland,  $  7  and  $5  ;  to  Boston, 
S  8  and  f  6.50 ;  to  New  York  (by  the  Sound  boats),  $  12  and  %  10.50. 

The  Carroll  or  the  Alhambra  leaves  Esson's  Wharf  every  Monday  noon  for  the 
Strait  of  Canso  and  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.  Fares  to  Charlottetown,  cabin,  §4; 
cabin  state-room,  $5;  saloon  state-room,  $6.  The  George  Shattvck  leaves  Boak's 
Wharf,  fortnightly,  for  N.  ^dney,  C.  B.,  and  St.  Pierre  Miq.  (see  Route  50).  The 
steamship  Virgo  leaves  for  Sydney,  C-  B.,  and  St.  John's,  N.  F. ,  every  alternate  Tues- 
day (see  Routes  36  and  51).  Fares,  to  Sydney,  $  8  ;  to  St.  John's,  $  15 ;  steerage  to 
either  port,  $  5. 

The  Micmac  cruises  in  the  harbor  during  the  summer,  running  from  the  South 
Perry  Wharf  to  McNab's  Island  and  up  the  N.  W.  Arm  (fare,  25c.).  The  steam- 
ferry  from  Dartmouth  has  its  point  of  departure  near  the  foot  of  George  St.  The 
Goliah  makes  frequent  trips  up  the  Bedford  Basin. 

Stages  leave  Halifax  daily  for  Chester,  Lunenburg,  Liverpool,  Shelburne,  and 
Yarmouth  (see  Route  24),  departing  at  6  a.  m.  Stages  leave  at  6  a.  m.  on  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  for  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  Jeddore,  Ship  Harbor,  Tangier, 
Sheet  Harbor,  Beaver  Harbor,  and  Sahnon  River  (see  Route  29). 

Halifax,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  chief 
naval  station  of  the  British  Empire  in  the  Western  Hemisphere,  occupies  a 
commanding  position  on  one  of  the  finest  hax-bors  of  the  Atlantic  coast.    It 


y 


HALIFAX. 


Jioute  19.       95 


Itlonal,  on  Hoi- 

Itocratic;  Man- 

luuierous  small 

Vly  opposite  the 

It  is  now  being 

Tia  at  St.  John. 

idian  Hotel,  64 

:  shops  on  liol- 

House. 

■corner  of  Gran- 

lldings ;  and  in 

Id  the  Citizens' 

iBarrington  St., 

^ing-Room  is  at 

;  the  Albion  is 

n  from  2  to  10 

and  Gernmnia 

d,  with  billiard 

s  of  their  fleet. 

in  tlie  Teniper- 

yed  at  the  Iliuk, 

)all  playing  may 

nous  for  the  in- 

exciting  aquatic 

1  the  Richmond 
Ipper  Wa  cr  St., 
ton  St.  aLd  the 

In  276  M.  (see 
ndsor  &Annap- 

F.,  Queenstown, 
irpool,  $75  and 
for  St.  John's, 
nard  Line)  leave 
ig  at  St.  Thomas 
panish  Main, 
alternate  Satur- 
•ominion  Wharf 
d  is  handsomely 
$  5  ;  to  Boston, 

ly  noon  for  the 
wn,  cabin,  $4; 
■k  leaves  Boak's 
Route  60).  The 
r'  alternate  Tues- 
1 15 ;  steerage  to 

from  the  South 
!.).  The  steam- 
leorge  St.    The 

Shelburne,  and 
M.  on  Monday, 
arbor,  Tangier, 


ind  the  chief 
re,  occupies  a 
ntic  coast.    It  > 


> 


has  29,582  inhabitants  (census  of  1871),  with  7  banks,  4  daily  papers  and 
several  tri-weeklies  and  weeklies,  and  24  churches  (7  Anglican,  5  Presby- 
terian, 3  each  of  Catholic,  Wesleyan,  and  Baptist).  The  city  occupies  a 
picturesque  positici  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  peninsula  (of  3,000  acres),  be- 
tween the  bay,  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  the  Bedford  Basin;  and  looks  out 
upon  a  noble  harbor,  deep,  completely  sheltered,  easily  accessible,  and 
large  enough  "  to  contain  all  the  navies  of  Europe."  In  1869  the  imports 
amounted  to  $7,202,504,  and  the  exports  to  $3,169,548;  and  in  1870  the 
assessed  valuation  of  the  city  was  $16,753,812.  The  city  has  a  copious 
supply  of  water,  which  is  drawn  from  the  Chain  Lakes,  about  12  M.  dis- 
tant, and  so  high  above  Halifax  that  it  can  force  jets  over  the  highest 
houses  by  its  own  pressure.  There  is  a  fire-alarm  telegraph,  and  an  eflfi- 
cient  fire  department,  with  several  steam-engines. 

The  city  lies  along  the  shore  of  the  harbor  for  2^  M.,  and  is  about  |  M. 
wide.  Its  plan  is  regular,  and  some  of  the  business  streets  are  well  built ; 
but  the  general  character  of  the  houses  is  that  of  poor  construction  and 
dingy  colors.  It  has,  however,  been  much  bettered  of  late  years,  owing  to 
the  improvements  after  two  great  fires,  and  to  the  wealth  which  flowed  in 
during  the  American  civil  war,  and  hardly  deserves  the  severe  criticism 
of  a  recent  traveller:  "  Probably  there  is  not  anywhere  a  more  rusty,  for- 
lorn town,  and  this  in  spite  of  its  magnificent  situation." 

Hollis  and  Granville  Streets,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Parliament  Buildings, 
contain  the  most  attractive  shops  and  the  headquarters  of  the  great  import- 
ing houses.  Many  of  the  buildings  in  this  section  are  of  solid  and  elegant 
construction,  though  the  prevalence  of  dark  colors  gives  a  sombre  hue  to 
the'  street  lines. 

The  Parliament  Building  occupies  the  square  between  Hollis,  George, 
Granville,  and  Prince  Streets,  and  is  surrounded  with  trees.  In  1830  this 
plain  structure  of  gray  stone  was  called  the  finest  building  in  North 
America,  but  American  architecture  has  advanced  very  far  since  that 
time.  Opposite,  the  Granville-St.  entrance  is  the  Library,  occupying  a 
very  cosey  little  hall,  and  supplied  Avith  British  and  Canadian  works  on 
law,  history,  and  science.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  building  is  the  plain  and 
commodious  hall  of  the  House  of  Assembly;  and  on  the  S.  is  the  chauibti' 
of  the  Legislative  Council,  in  which  are  some  fine  portraits.  On  the  r.  and 
1.  of  the  vice-regal  throne  are  full-length  *  portraits  of  King  George  III. 
and  Queen  Charlotte;  on  the  N.  wall  are  Chief  Justice  Blowers,  King 
William  IV.,  Judge  Haliburton  (see  page  92),  *  Sir  Thomas  Strange  (by 
Benjamin  West),  and  Sir  Brenton  Haliburton.  Opposite  the  throne  are 
Nova  Scotia's  military  heroes.  Sir  John  Inglis  (the  defender  of  Lucknow) 
and  Sir  W.  Fenwick  Williams  of  Kars.  On  the  S.  wall  are  full-length  por- 
traits of  King  George  II.  and  Queen  Caroline. 

The  new  Provincial  Building  is  E.  of  the  Parliament  Building,  on 
Hollis  St.,  and  is  140  by  70  ft  in  area.    It  is  built  of  brown  freestone,  in 


j 

1'  ^            i    ' 

¥      m 

9G      Houte  19. 


HALIFAX. 


Ii 


>B'  i 


w 


I. 

i 
! 


ill 


rrx 


i 

r$ 

\ 


I 


tin  omato  style  of  architecture,  and  cost  $120,000.  The  lower  storj'  is 
occupied  by  the  Post-Ofhce ;  and  tlie  tliird  floor  contains  the  *  Provincial 
Museum,  whicli  exhibits  preserved  birds,  animals,  reptiles,  fossils,  min- 
erals, shells,  coins,  and  specimens  of  the  stones,  minerals,  coals,  and  gold 
ores  of  Nova  Scotia.  Tliero  are  also  numerous  Indian  relics,  curiosities 
from  Japan  and  China,  naval  models,  and  old  portraits.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance is  a  gilt  pyramid,  which  represents  the  amount  of  gold  produced 
in  the  Province  between  1862  and  1870,-6  tons,  8  cwt.,  valued  at 
S  3,373,431.  Most  of  this  gold  has  been  coined  at  the  U.  S.  Mint  in  Phila- 
delphia, and  is  purer  and  finer  than  that  of  California  and  Montana. 

On  the  corner  of  Granville  and  Prince  Streets,  near  the  Parliament 
Building,  is  the  new  and  stately  stone  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association,  with  its  reading-rooms  and  other  departments.  The 
massive  brownstone  house  of  the  Halifax  Club  is  to  the  S.,  on  Hollis  c^t. 

The  *  Citadel  covers  the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  whose  slopes  the  city  is 
built,  and  is  250  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Visitors  are  admitted  and 
allowed  to  pass  around  the  rampai'ts  under  escort  of  a  soldier,  after  regis- 
tei'ing  their  names  at  the  gate.  The  attendant  soldier  will  point  out  all 
the  objects  of  interest,  and  (if  he  be  an  artillerist)  will  give  instructive 
discourse  on  the  armament,  though  his  language  may  sometimes  become 
hopcicssly  technical.  The  Citadel  is  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  according 
to  the  standards  of  the  old  school ;  though  of  late  years  the  government 
has  bestowed  much  attention  on  the  works  at  George's  Island,  which  are 
more  important  in  a  naval  point  of  view. 

The  -works  •were  commenced  by  Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent,  and  the  father 
of  Queen  "Victoria,  who  was  then  Comninnder  of  the  Forces  on  this  station.  He  em- 
ployed in  the  sei-vice  a  large  number  of  the  Maroons,  who  had  been  conquered  by 
the  British,  and  were  banished  from  Jamaica,  and  subsequently  deported  to  Sierra 
Leone.  Changes  and  additions  have  been  made  nearly  every  year  since,  until  the 
present  immense  stronghold  has  been  completed.  It  is  separated  from  the  glacis  by 
a  deep  moat,  over  which  are  the  guns  on  the  numerous  bastions.  The  mas.eivc  ma- 
Fonry  of  the  walls  seems  to  defy  assault,  and  the  extensive  barracks  within  are  said 
to  bo  bomb-proof.  During  the  years  1873-74  the  artillery  has  been  changed,  and 
the  previous  mixed  armament  has  been  to  a  great  degree  replaced  by  muzzle-load- 
ing Woolwich  guns  of  heavy  calibre,  adapted  for  firing  the  conical  Palliser  shot  with 
points  of  chilled  iron.  The  visitor  is  allowed  to  walk  around  the  circuit  of  the  ram- 
parts, and  this  elevated  station  affords  a  broad  view  on  either  side.  Perhaps  the 
Lost  prospect  is  that  from  the  S.  E.  bastion,  overlooking  the  crowded  city  on  the 
plopes  below;  the  narrow  harbor  with  its  shipping;  Dartmouth,  sweeping  up  to- 
ward Bedford  Basin;  Fort  Clarence,  below  Dartmouth,  with  its  dark  casemates; 
SIcNab's  Island,  crowned  with  batteries  and  shutting  in  the  Eastern  Passage ;  the 
outer  harbor,  with  its  fortified  points,  and  the  ocean  beyond. 

Near  the  portal  of  the  citadel  is  an  outer  battery  of  antiquated  guns;  and  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  glacis  are  the  extensive  barracks  of  the  Royal  Artillery.  Other  mili- 
tary quarters  arc  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Citadel. 

'*But  if  you  cast  your  eyes  over  yonder  magnificent  bay,  where  vessels  bearing 
flags  of  all  nations  are  at  anchor,  and  then  let  your  vision  sweep  past  and  over  the 
ii^landa  to  the  outlets  beyond,  where  the  quiet  ocean  lies,  bordered  with  fog  banks 
that  loom  ominously  at  the  boundary -lice  of  the  horizon,  you  will  sec  a  picture  of 
marvellous  beauty ;  for  the  coast  scenery  here  transcends  our  own  sea-shores,  both 
in  color  and  outline.  And  behind  us  again  stretch  large  green  plains,  dotted  with 
cottages,  and  bounded  with  undulating  liills,  with  now  and  then  glimpses  of  blue 


i.  HiLu, 


HALIFAX. 


Iloute  19.       97 


er  stoiy  is 

Provincial 

)ssils,  min- 
,  and  gold 
curiosities 
iito  the  en- 
cl  produced 
valued  at 
it  in  Phila- 
tana. 

?'ar]  lament 

en's  Chris- 

ents.      The 

lollis  St. 

s  the  city  is 

Imitted  and 

after  regis- 

loint  out  all 

instructive 

nes  become 

1,  according 

government 

,  which  are 


nd  the  father 
ion.  He  em- 
lonquercd  by 
ted  to  Sierra 
ice,  until  the 
the  glacis  by 
masyivc  ma- 
ithin  arc  said 
changed,  and 
muzzlc-load- 
^er  shot  with 
t  of  the  ram- 
Perhaps  the 
I  city  on  the 
cping  up  to- 
i  casemates; 
Passage;  the 

;  and  at  the 
Other  miU- 

isels  bearing 
ind  over  the 
h  fogbanks 
a  picture  of 
shores,  both 
dotted  with 
[)ses  of  blue 


I 


water;  and  as  wo  walk  down  Citadel  Hill,  wo  fM  hnlf  reconciled  to  Halifax,  its 

(iMJiiiit  inouldv  old  fjabie.?,  ita  soldiers  and  sailors,  it-<  togs,  cjiIjs,  i)onny  and  half- 
ptiJiiy  tolvons,  and  all  iU  little,  odd,  outlandish  ijecuiiaritics."'     (Cozzlns.) 

Lower  Water  St.  borders  the  harbor-lVont,  find  gives  access  to  the 
wiiarves  of  the  various  steamship  and  packet  lines.  It  runs  from  the 
Ordnance  Yard,  at  the  foot  of  Buckinghani  St.,  to  the  Government  reser- 
vation near  George  Island,  and  presents  a  remarkably  dingy  and  dilapi- 
dated appearance  throughout  its  entire  length. 

The  Queen's  Dockyard  occupies  ^  M.  of  the  shore  of  the  upper  harbor, 
and  is  surrounded  on  the  landward  side  by  a  high  stone-wall.  It  contains 
the  usual  paraphernalia  of  a  first-class  navy-yard,  —  storehouses,  machine- 
shops,  docks,  arsenals,  a  hospital,  and  a  lino  of  ofFiccrs'  quarters.  It  is 
much  used  by  the  frigates  of  the  British  navy,  both  to  repair  and  to  refit, 
and  the  visitor  may  generally  see  here  two  or  three  vessels  of  Her  Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The  Dockyard  was  founded  in  1758,  and  received  groat  additions  (including  the 
present  wall)  in  1770.  During  the  two  great  wars  with  the  United  States  it  was 
invaluable  as  a  station  for  the  royal  navy,  whose  tleets  thence  descended  upon  the 
American  coast.  Many  trophies  of  the  war  of  1812  were  kept  here  (as  similar  marine- 
mementos  of  another  nation  are  kept  in  the  Brooklyn  and  \Vashi:\<rton  Navj> Yards), 
including  the  flgure-head  of  the  unfortunate  American  frigate,  luo  Chesapeake, 
which  was  captured  in  1813,  off  Boston  Harbor,  by  the  British  frigate  Shannon,  and 
was  brought  into  Halifax  with  great  rejoicing.  It  is,  perhaps,  in  kindly  recognition 
of  the  new  fraternity  of  the  Anglo-.\merican  nations,  that  the  Imperial  Government 
has  lately  caused  these  invidious  emblems  of  strife  to  be  removed. 

The  Dockyard  is  not  open  to  the  public,  but  the  superintendent  will  generally 
admit  visitors  upon  presentation  of  their  cards. 

In  the  N.  \V.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  foot  of  Citadel  Hill,  is  the 
Military  Hospital,  before  which  is  the  Garrison  Chapel,  a  plain  wooden 
building  on  whose  inner  walls  are  many  mural  tablets  in  memory  of  ofli- 
cers  who  have  died  on  this  station.  Beyond  this  point,  Brunswick  St. 
runs  N.  W.  by  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer  to  St.  George's  Church,  a  sin- 
gular wooden  building  of  a  circular  form.  At  the  corner  of  Brunswick 
and  Gerrish  Sts.  is  a  cemetery,  in  which  stands  a  quaint  little  church 
dating  from  1761,  having  been  crecied  by  one  of  the  first  companies  of 
German  immigrants. 

On  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph,  where  the  Catholic  seamen 
of  the  fleet  attend  mass  on  Sunday  at  9^  A.  m.  Near  this  building  is  the 
Orphan  Asylum  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Farther  N.  on  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  beyond 
which,  on  North  St.,  is  the  Roman  Catholic  College  of  St.  Mary,  at  Belle 
Air.  This  institution  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Christian  Brothers,  and 
has  the  same  line  of  studies  as  an  American  high-school.  Farther  out  on 
Gottingen  St.  is  the  Admiralty  House,  the  oflicial  residence  of  the  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  North-American  and  West-Indian  Squadrons,  be- 
yond which  are  the  Wellington  Barracks,  over  the  Richmond  railway- 
station.  From  the  plateau  on  which  the  secluded  Admiralty  House  is 
5  a 


98      Jtoute  19. 


HALIFAX. 


IH 


111"  k 


fT 


1 


m 


'.I  I 


lii 


located,  the  visitor  can  look  down  on  the  Queen's  Dockyard,  the  fleet, 
and  the  inner  harbor. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary  is  on  the  Spring  Garden 
Road,  near  its  intersection  with  Pleasant  St.  It  has  recently  been  much 
enlarged  and  improved  by  the  addition  of  an  elegant  granite  fapndc  and 
spire,  in  florid  Gothic  architecture.  The  Cathedral  fronts  on  an  old  and 
honored  cemeterj',  on  whose  E.  side  is  a  finely  conceived  *  monument  to 
Welsford  and  Parker,  the  Nova-Scotian  heroes  of  the  Crimean  War. 
(Major  Welsford  was  killed  in  the  storming  of  the  Redan.)  It  consists  of 
a  small  but  massive  arch  of  brownstone,  standing  on  a  broad  gi'anite  base, 
and  supporting  a  statue  of  the  British  lion.  Opposite  the  cemetery,  on 
Pleasant  St.,  is  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  St.  Matthew  (under  the  care 
of  Rev.  George  M.  Grant).  Above  the  Cathedral,  on  the  Spring  Garden 
Road,  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Court  House,  well  situated  amid 
open  grounds,  near  the  jail  and  the  capacious  drill-sheds. 

The  Horticultural  Gardens  are  on  the  Spring  Garden  Road,  and  are  well 
arranged  and  cared  for.  They  were  purchased  by  the  city  in  Sep*<5mber, 
1874,  and  were  then  united  with  the  Public  Gardens,  which  are  just  S.  of 
Citadel  Hill.  Military  music  is  given  here  by  the  garrison  bands  during 
the  summer.  Near  the  Gardens  is  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  a 
stately  building  situated  in  pleasant  grounds.  The  Protestant  Cemetery 
adjoins  the  Horticultural  Gardens  on  the  W.,  and  contains  a  great  num- 
ber of  monuments.  In  the  same  quarter  of  the  city,  below  Morris  St.,  are 
the  new  Blind  Asylum,  the  City  Hospital,  and  the  immense  and  stately 
building  of  the  Poor  Asylum,  lately  completed  at  a  cost  of  $260,000. 

The  Oovernment  House  is  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Matthew's 
Church,  on  Pleasant  St.,  and  is  the  oflUcial  residence  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  a  plain  and  massive  old  stone  building, 
with  projecting  wings,  and  is  nearly  surrounded  by  trees.  Farther  S  ,  on 
Morris  St.,  is  the  Anglican  Cathedral  of  St.  Luke,  a  plain  and  homely 
wooden  building.  Beyond  this  point  are  the  pretty  wooden  churches  and 
villas  which  extend  toward  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  foot  of  South  St.  are  the  Ordnance  Grounds,  from  whose  wharf  the  lower 
harbor  is  overlooked.  About  1,800  ft.  distant  is  George's  Island,  on  which  is 
a  powerful  modem  fortress,  bearing  a  heavy  armament  from  which  immense  chilled- 
iron  or  steel-pointed  shot  could  be  hurled  against  a  hostile  fleet.  This  position  is 
the  key  to  the  harbor,  and  converges  its  fire  with  that  of  Fort  Clarence,  a  low  but 
massive  casemated  work,  1  M.  S.  E.  on  the  Dartmouth  shore,  whose  guns  could 
eweep  the  Eastern  Passage  and  the  inner  harboi\  The  pa-ssage  from  the  outer  har- 
bor is  defended  by  the  York  Redoubt,  near  Sandwich  Point,  by  a  new  line  of  bat- 
teries on  the  N.  W.  shore  of  McNab's  Island,  and  by  the  forts  on  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  comer  of  Prince  and  Barrington  Sts.  is  St.  Paul's  Episcopal 
Church,  a  plain  and  spacious  old  building  (built  in  1750),  with  numerous 
mural  tablets  on  the  inner  walls.  Dalhousie  College  and  University  is  at 
the  comer  of  Duke  and  Barrington  Sts.,  and  was  founded  by  the  Earl  of 
Dalliousie  while  he  was  Governor-General  of  Canada.    Its  design  was  to 


i<a 


HALIFAX. 


Route  10. 


99 


1^ 


provide  means  for  the  liberal  education  of  young  men  who  did  not  wish  to 
go  (or  were  debarred  from  going)  to  King's  College,  at  Windsor.  There 
are  7  professors  in  the  academic  department,  and  the  medical  school  has 
13  professors. 

In  the  summer  of  1746  the  great  French  Armada  flailed  from  Brest  to  conquer  the 
British  North-American  coast  from  Virginia  to  Newfoundland.  It  wiis  commanded 
by  the  Duke  d'Auville,and  was  composed  of  the  line-of-battlo  ships  Triihnt,  AHent, 
Mars,  and  Alcide,  04  guns  each  ;  the  Northuniberlnnil,  Carillon,  Tigre,  Leopard,  and 
Renomm6e,Qfi  guns  each;  tlie  Dianiant,  60;  Megire,  30;  Argonaute ,  26 ;  Prime 
aWrange,2ii',  the  Parfait,  Mercure,  Palme,  Girous,  Perle,  and  22  otlier  frigates, 
with  30  transports,  carrying  an  army  of  3,lo0  soldiers.  D'Anville's  orders  were  to 
"  occupy  Louisbourg,  to  reduce  Nova  Scotia,  to  destroy  Boston,  and  ravage  the 
coast  of  New  England."  The  Armada  was  dispersed,  however,  by  a  succession  of 
unparalleled  and  disastrous  storms,  and  D'Anvillo  reached  Chebucto  Bay  (Halifax) 
oa  Sept.  10,  with  only  2  ships  of  the  line  and  a  few  transports.  Six  days  later  the 
unfortunate  Duke  died  of  apoplexy,  induced  by  grief  and  distress  on  account  of  the 
disasters  which  his  enterprise  had  suffered.  The  Vice-Admiral  D'Estournelle  com- 
mitted suicide  a  few  days  later.  Some  other  ves.e<'ls  now  arrived  here,  and  immense 
barracks  were  erected  along  the  Bedford  Basin.  1  ,'JOO  men  had  died  from  scurvy  on 
the  outward  voyage,  and  the  camps  were  soon  turned  into  hospitals.  Over  1,000 
French  soldiers  and  2  -  300  Micmac  Indians  died  around  the  Basin  and  were  buried 
near  its  quiet  waters.  Oct.  13,  the  French  fleet,  numbering  5  ships  of  the  line 
and  25  frigates  and  transports,  sailed  from  Halifax,  intending  to  attack  Annapolis 
Koyal ;  but  another  terrible  storm  arose,  while  the  vessels  were  off  Cape  Sable,  and 
scattered  the  remains  of  the  Armada  in  such  wide  confusion  that  they  were  obliged 
to  retire  from  the  American  waters. 

The  Indians  called  Halifax  harbor  Chebucto,  meaning  "the  chief  haven,"  and  the 
French  named  it  La  Bate  Saine,  "on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  the  air." 

In  the  year  1748  the  British  Lords  of  Trade,  incited  by  the  people  of  Massachu- 
setts, determined  to  found  a  city  on  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  partly  in  prospect  of 
commercial  advantages,  and  partly  to  keep  the  Acadians  in  check.  Parliament 
voted  £40,000  for  this  purpose  j  and  on  June  21,  1749,  a  fleet  of  13  transports 
and  the  sloop-of-war  Sphinx  arrived  in  the  designated  harbor,  bearing  2,376  colo- 
nist§  (of  whom  over  1,500  were  men).  The  city  was  laid  out  in  July, and  was  named 
in  honor  of  George  Montagu,  Earl  of  Halifax,  the  head  of  the  Lords  of  Trade.  The 
Acadians  and  the  Indians  soon  sent  in  their  submission;  but  in  1751  the  suburb  of 
Dartmouth  was  attacked  at  night  by  the  latter,  and  many  of  its  citizens  were  massacred. 
500  Germans  settled  here  in  1751-52,  but  it  was  found  difficult  to  preserve  the  col- 
ony, since  so  many  of  its  citizens  passed  over  to  the  New-England  Provinces.  The  great 
fleets  and  armies  of  Loudon  and  Wolfe  concentrated  here  before  advancing  against 
Louisbourg  and  Quebec ;  and  the  city  afterwards  grew  in  importance  as  a  naval  sta- 
tion. Representative  gorernment  was  establish  ad  in  1758,  and  the  Parliament  of 
1770  remained  in  session  for  14  years,  while  Halifax  was  made  one  of  the  chief  sta- 
tions whence  the  royal  forces  were  directed  upon  the  insurgent  American  colonies. 
After  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  many  thousands  of  exiled  Loyalists  took 
refuge  here  ;  and  the  wooden  walls  and  towers  with  which  the  city  nad  been  forti- 
fied were  replaced  with  more  formidable  defences  by  Prince  Edward. 

The  ancient  palisade-wall  included  the  space  between  the  present  Salter,  Barring- 
ton,  and  Jacob  Streets,  and  the  harbor;  and  its  citadel  was  the  small  Government 
House,  on  the  site  of  the  present  Parliament  Building,  which  was  surrounded  with 
hogsheads  filled  with  sand,  over  which  lighf  cannons  were  displayed. 

The  growth  of  Halifax  during  the  present  century  haa  been  very  slow,  in  view  of 
its  great  commercial  advantages  and  possibilities.  The  presence  of  large  bodies  of 
troops,  and  the  semi-military  regime  of  a  garrison-town,  have  had  a  certain  effect  in 
deadening  the  energy  of  the  citizens.  Great  sums  of  money  were,  however,  made 
here  during  the  American  civil  war,  when  the  sympathies  of  the  Ilaligonians  were 
warmly  enlisted  in  favor  of  the  revolted  States,  and  many  blockade-runners  sailed 
hence  to  reap  rich  harvests  in  the  Southern  ports.  The  cessation  of  the  war  put  a 
stop  to  this  lucrative  trade ;  but  it  is  now  hoped  that  the  completion  of  the  Inter- 
colonial Railway  to  St.  John  and  Quebec  will  greatly  benefit  IlaUfax.  There  is  a 
rivalry  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  which  resembles  that  between  Chicago  and  St. 
Louis,  and  leads  to  similar  journalistic  tournaments.    St.  John  claims  that  she  haa 


100      Route  to.    THE  ENVinoXS  OP  HALIFAX. 


I 


IP 


a  flrst-claPR  liotol  and  a  theatre,  which  IIiiHfax  has  not ;  and  the  Nova-Scotian  city 
answers,  in  return,  that  slio  has  the  best  criciiet-club  and  tlie  cliuuipiuu  oursumn  of 
America. 

Sir  William  Fenwick  Williamn,  of  Kars,  Bart.,  K.  C.  B.,  D.  C.  L.,  wns  born  at  Ilnll- 
fax  in  18UU.  Atlor  serving  in  Ceylon,  Turkey,  and  Persia,  lie  iiistru<  ted  tlu!  Moslem 
artillery,  and  Inrtilied  tiie  city  ot'Kiirs.  Here  he  was  besieged  by  tiie  Uuxsians,  under 
(ien.  Mouravielf.  lie  defeated  the  enemy  near  the  city,  but  was  forcoil  to  surrender 
after  a  heroic  defence  of  six  months,  beinp;  a  sacritico  to  British  diplomacy.  IIo  was 
afterwards  (Commander  of  the  Forces  in  Canada. 

Admiral  Sir  I'rovo  U'alli.s  was  born  at  Halifax  in  1791,  and  was  early  engaged  in 
the  great  battle  between  the  Cleopatra , S2,  and  the  French  Ville  fie  Milan,  40.  IIo 
afterwards  served  on  the  Vurieux,  the  Gloire,  and  tho  ahannon,  to  whoso  command 
ho  succeeded  after  the  battle  with  tho  Chesapeake. 


!' 

m 


i( 


20.   The  Environs  of  Halifax. 

The  favorite  drive  from  Halifax  is  to  tho  Four-Mile  Ifoiise,  and  along 
the  shores  of  tlie  *  Bedford  Basin.  This  noble  sheet  of  water  is  G  M.  long 
and  1-3  M.  wide,  with  from  8  to  3G  fathoms  of  depth.  It  U  entered  by 
way  of  the  Narrows,  a  passage  2^-3  M.  long  and  i^  ^I.  wide,  leading  from 
Halifax  Harbor.  It  is  bordered  on  all  sides  by  bold  hills  200-330  ft.  in 
height,  between  which  are  10  square  miles  of  secure  anchoring-ground. 
The  village  of  Bedford  is  on  the  W.  shore,  and  has  several  .'^ummer  hotels 
(Bellcvue,  Bedford,  etc.).  The  steamer  Goliah  leaves  Halifax  for  Bedford 
at  11  A.  M.  and  2  r.  m.  daily.  During  tho  summer  the  light  vessels  of  tho 
Royal  Halifax  Yacht  Clulj  are  seen  in  the  Basin  daily ;  and  exciting  rowing- 
matches  sometime-  some  off  near  the  Four-Mile  House. 

Along  tho  shores  of  tho  Bedford  Basin  were  tho  mournful  camps  and  hospitoln  of 
the  French  Armuda,  in  1740,  and  1,300  men  were  buried  there.  Their  remaino  were 
found  by  subscqucnl  Ecttlers.  The  fn>t  permanent  colonies  along  these  shores  were 
made  by  Massachusetts  Loyalists  in  1784. 

Hammond''s  Plains  are  7  M.  W.  of  Bedford,  and  were  settled  in  1815  by  slaves 
brought  away  from  tho  shores  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  by  the  British  fleets.  This 
is,  like  the  other  villages  of  freed  blacks  throughout  tho  Province,  dirty  and  dil.ipi- 
datcd  to  tho  last  degree.  To  the  N.  W.  is  the  Pockwock  Lake,  4  M.  long,  with  di- 
Tersifled  shores,  and  abounding  in  trout. 

•'  The  road  to  Point  Pleasant  is  a  favorite  promenade  in  the  long  Acadian 
twilights.  Midway  between  the  city  and  the  Point  lies  '  Kissing  Bridge,' 
which  the  Halifax  maidens  sometimes  pass  over.  Who  gathers  toll  nobody 
knows,  but  —  " 

Poiut  Pleasant  projects  between  the  harbor  and  the  N.  W.  Arm.  and  is 
covered  with  pretty  groves  of  evergreen  trees,  threaded  by  narrov/  roads, 
and  now  being  laid  out  for  a  public  park.  The  principal  fortification  is 
Fort  Offilvie,  a  garrisoned  post,  whose  artillery  commands  tho  channel. 
A  short  distance  to  the  W.  is  the  antiquated  structure  called  the  Prince  of 
WaU&'s  Tower,  from  which  fine  views  are  afforded.  The  Point  Pleasant 
Battery  is  near  the  water's  edge,  and  is  intended  to  sweep  tho  outer 
passage. 

The  Northwest  Arm  is  4  M.  long  and  ^  M.  wide,  and  is  a  river-liko 
Inlet,  which  runs  N.  W.  from  the  harbor  to  within  2  M.  of  the  Bedford  Basin. 


'  Ni 


L 


im 


1^ 


DARTMOUTH. 


Route  21.       101 


Its  shores  are  high  and  picturesque,  and  on  tlie  Halifax  side  are  scvornl 
fine  mansions,  surrounded  by  ornamental  grounds.  In  tlie  upper  part  of 
the  Arm  is  Melville  hland,  wliere  American  prisoners  were  kept  during 
the  War  of  1812.  Ferguion's  Cove  is  a  picturesque  village  on  the  N.  W. 
Arm,  inhabited  chir'iy  by  fishermen  and  pilots. 

The  steamer  Micmnc  makes  regular  trips  during  the  summer  up  tho 
N.  W.  Arm,  and  to  McNab's  Island,  which  is  8  M.  long,  and  has  a  sum- 
mer hotel  and  some  heavy  military  works.  The  Micmac  leaves  tho  South 
Ferry  Wharf  at  10  A.  M.  and  12,  and  2  and  3  p.  m. 

Dartmouth  {Acudian  House)  is  situated  on  the  harbor,  opposite  the  city 
of  Halifax,  to  which  a  steam  ferry-boat  makes  frequent  trips.  It  has  sev- 
eral pretty  villas  belonging  to  Halifax  merchants;  and  at  about  i|  M.  from 
the  village  is  tho  spacious  and  imposing  building  of  the  il/oMn< //ope  yl.s^/«»» 
for  the  Insane,  a  long,  castellated  granite  building  which  overlooks  tho 
harbor.  Dartmouth  has  4,358  inhabitants  and  5  churches,  and  derives 
prosperity  from  the  working  of  several  foundries  and  steam-tanneries.  It 
is  also  the  seat  of  tho  Chebucto  Marine  Railway.  This  town  was  founded 
in  1750,  but  was  soon  afterwards  destroyed,  with  some  of  its  people,  by  tho 
Indians.  In  1784  it  was  reoccupied  by  men  of  Nantucket  who  preferred 
royalism  to  republicanism.  The  Montague  Gold-Mines  are  4  M.  from 
Dartmouth,  and  have  yielded  in  paying  quantities.  Cow  Bay  is  a  few  miles 
S.  E.  of  Dartmouth,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer,  on  account  of  its  fine 
marine  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  batliing.  The  Dartmouth  Lakes  com- 
mence within  1  M.  of  the  town,  and  were  formerly  a  favorite  resort  of 
sportsmen,  but  are  now  nearly  fished  out. 

21.  The  Basin  of  Mlnas.— Halifax  to  St.  John. 

Halifax  to  Windsor,  see  Route  18  (in  reverse). 

Tlie  steamer  leaves  Windsor  every  Wednesday  at  high  water,  touching  at  Parrs- 
boro',  and  thence  running  down  the  Bay  to  St.  John. 

The  steamer  leaves  St.  John  (Reed's  Point)  every  Tuesday  evening  at  high  water, 
for  Parrsboro'  and  Windsor.  Fares,  St.  John  to  Parrshoro'  or  Windsor,  $3;  to 
Londonderry,  Maitland,  cr  Halifax,  $4. 

As  the  steamer  moves  out  from  her  wharf  at  Windsor,  a  pleasant  view 
is  afforded  of  the  old  college  town  astern,  with  the  farming  village  of  Fal- 
mouth on  the  1.,  and  shipbuilding  Newport  on  the  r.,  beyond  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  River.  The  shores  are  high  and  ridgy,  and  the  mouth  of 
the  Kennetcook  River  is  passed  (on  the  r.)  about  5  M.  below  Windsor. 
2-3  M.  below  is  Hantsport  (1.  bank),  a  thriving  marine  village  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Cockmigon  River.  On  Horton  Bluff  (1.  bank)  is  a  light- 
house which  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  20  M.,  and 
beyond  this  point  the  steamer  enters  the  *  Basin  of  Minas.  On  the  1.  are 
the  low  ridges  of  Long  Island  and  Boot  Island,  rising  on  the  margin  of  a 
wide  and  verdant  meadow.  The  meadow  is  Grand  Pr6,  the  land  of 
Evangeline  (see  Route  22).    ^lilc  after  mile  the  fertile  plains  of  Cornwallis 


J 


•11  ' 

ill 


i;! 


^hiU^: 


•■^t^\' 


V   ;  I 


102      Rwie21. 


CAPE  BLOMIDON. 


m 


open  on  the  1.,  bounded  by  the  Horton  hills  and  the  dark  line  of  the  North 
Mt.  In  advance  is  the  bold  and  clear-cnt  outline  of  Capo  Blomidon, 
brooding  over  the  water,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  low  but  well-defined  bluffs 
of  Chivirie,  rich  in  cypsum  and  limestone.  It  is  about  22  M.  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Avon  to  Pair'^boro',  and  the  course  of  the  steamer  continu- 
ally approaches  Blomidon, 

Cape  Blomidon  is  a  yast  precipice  of  red  sandstone  of  the  Triassic  era,  with 
etroDg  marks  o*'  volcanie  action.  "  The  dark  bafiltic  wall,  covered  with  thick 
woods,  thfi  terrace  of  amygdaloid,  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  light-green  shrubs 
and  young  trees  that  rapidly  spring  up  on  its  rich  and  moist  surface,  the  precipice 
of  bright  red  sandstone,  always  clean  and  fresh,  and  contrasting  strongly  with  the 
trap  above,  ....  constitute  a  combination  of  forms  and  colors  equally  striking,  if 
eeon  in  the  distance  from  the  hills  of  Hoiton  or  Parrsboro',  or  more  nearly  from 
the  sea  or  the  stony  beach  at  its  base  Llomidon  is  a  scene  never  to  be  forgotten  by 
a  traveller  who  has  wandered  around  its  shores  or  clambered  on  its  giddy  preci- 
pices." The  cape  is  about  670  ft.  high,  and  presents  an  interesting  sight  when  its 
dark-red  summit  is  peering  above  the  white  sea-fogs.  Sir  William  Lyell,  the  emi- 
nent British  geologist,  made  a  careful  study  of  the  phenomena  of  this  vicinity. 

The  Indian  legend  says  that  Blnniidon  was  madt  by  the  divine  Glooscap,  who 
broke  the  giaat  beaver-dam  off  this  shore  and  swung  its  end  around  into  its  present 
position.  Afterwards  he  crossed  to  the  new-made  cape  and  strewed  its  slopes  with 
the  gems  that  are  found  there  lo-day,  carrying  thence  a  set  of  rare  ornaments  for 
his  ancient  ?nd  mysterious  female  companion.  The  beneficent  chief  broke  away  the 
beaver-dam  because  it  was  flooding  all  the  Comv  ;  'is  Valley,  and  in  his  conflict  with 
the  Great  Beaver  he  threw  at  him  huge  masses  of  rock  and  earth,  which  are  the 
present  Five  Islands.  W.  of  Utkogtinrheech  (Blomidon)  the  end  of  the  dam  swept 
around  and  became  Pleegun  (Cape  Split). 

As  Blomidon  is  left  on  the  port  beam,  the  steamer  hurries  across  the 
rapid  currents  of  the  outlet  of  the  Basin.  In  front  is  seen  the  white  vil- 
lage of  Parrsboro',  backed  by  the  dark  undulations  of  the  Cobequid  Mts. 
Just  before  reaching  Parrsboro'  the  vessel  approaches  and  passes  Par- 
tridge Island  (on  the  1.),  a  singular  insulated  hill  250  ft.  high,  and  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  at  low  tide  by  a  narrow  beach. 

Partridge  Island  was  the  Pulowech  Munegoo  of  the  Micmacs,  and  was  a  favorite 
location  for  legends  of  Glooscap.  On  his  last  groat  journey  from  Newfoundland  by 
Pictou  through  Acadia  :,;nd  into  the  unknown  West,  he  built  a  grand  road  from 
Fort  Cumberland  to  this  shore  for  the  use  of  his  weary  companions.  This  miracu- 
lously formed  ridge  is  now  occupied  by  the  post-road  to  the  N.  W\,  and  is  called  by 
the  Indians  Owu)okun{the  causeway).  At  Partridge  Island  Glooscap  had  his  cel- 
ebrated revel  with  the  supernatural  Kit-poos-e-ag-unow,  the  deliverer  of  all  ex- 
pressed, who  was  taken  out  alive  from  his  mother  (slain  by  a  giant),  was  thrown 
into  a  well,  and,  being  miraculously  preserved  there,  came  forth  in  due  time  to  fulfil 
his  high  duty  to  men.  These  marvellous  friends  went  out  on  the  Basin  in  a  stone 
canoe  to  fish  by  torchlight,  and,  after  cruising  over  the  dark  waters  for  some  time, 
speared  a  monstrous  whale.  They  tossed  him  into  the  canoe  "  as  though  he  were  a 
trout,"  and  made  for  the  shore,  where,  in  their  brotherly  feast,  the  whale  was  en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro'  (two  inns)  is  prettily  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river, 
and  under  the  shelter  of  Partridge  Island.  It  has  about  900  inhabitants, 
■with  three  churches,  and  is  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade.  The  beauty  of 
the  situation  and  the  views,  together  with  the  sporting  facilities  in  the 
back-country,  nave  made  Parrsboro'  a  pleasure  resort  of  considerable  re- 
pute, and  the  neat  hotel  called  the  Summer  House  is  well  patronized.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  points  from  which  to  enter  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing 


I 


0* 


iUm 


^ 


i;^ 


PARRSBORO'. 


Route  21.      103 


districts  of  Cumberland  County,  and  guides  and  outfits  may  be  secured 
here.  Amherst  (see  page  78)  is  36  JI.  distant,  by  highways  following  the 
valleys  of  the  Parrsboro'  and  Maccau  Rivers. 

"  Parrsboro'  eiyoys  more  than  its  share  of  broad,  gravelly  beach j  overhung  with 
clifted  and  woody  bluffs.  One  fresh  from  the  dead  walls  of  a  great  city  would  be  de- 
lighted with  the  sylvan  shores  of  Parrsboro'.  The  beach,  with  all  its  'jreadth,  a 
miracle  of  pebbly  beauty,  slants  steeply  to  the  surf,  which  is  now  rolling  up  in  curl- 
ing clouds  of  green  and  white.  Here  we  turL  westward  into  the  great  bay  itself, 
going  with  a  tide  that  rushes  like  a  mighty  river  toward  a  cataract,  wliirling,  boil- 
ing, breaking  in  half-moons  of  crispy  foam."   (L.  L.  Noble.) 

"  Pleasant  Parrsboro',  with  its  green  hills,  neat  cottages,  and  sloping  shores  laved 
by  the  sea  when  the  tide  is  full,  but  wearing  quite  a  different  asp  ct  when  the  tide 
goes  out ;  for  then  it  is  left  perched  thirty  feet  high  upon  a  red  clay  bluff,  and  the 
fishing-boats  which  were  afloat  before  are  careened  upon  their  beam  ends,  high  and 
dry  out  of  water.  The  long  massive  pier  at  which  the  steamboat  lately  landed, 
lifts  up  its  naked  bulk  of  tree-nailed  logs,  reeking  with  green  ooze  and  sea-weed ;  and 
a  high  conical  island  which  constitutes  the  chief  feature  of  the  landscape  is  trans- 
formed into  a  bold  promontory,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  huge  ridge  of 
brick-red  clay."    (IIallock.) 

Gentlemen  who  are  interested  in  geological  studies  will  have  a  rare  chance  to  make 
collections  about  Parrsboro'  and  the  shores  of  Minas.  The  most  favorable  time  ia 
when  the  bluffs  have  been  cracked  and  scaled  by  recent  frosts ;  or  just  after  the  close 
of  the  winter,  when  much  fresh  debris  is  found  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs.  Among  the 
minerals  on  Partridge  Island  are:  analcime,  apophyllite,  amethyst,  agate,  ai:iatite, 
calcite  (abundant,  in  yellow  crystals),  chabazite,  chalcedony,  cat's-eye,  gypsum, 
hematite,  heulandite,  magnetite,  sMlbite  (very  abundant),  jasper,  cacholong,  opal, 
semi-opal,  and  gold-bearing  quartz.  About  Cape  Blomidon  are  found  analcime, 
agate,  amethyst,  apophyllite,  calcite,  chalcedony,  chabazite-gmelinite,  farbelitc, 
hematite,  magnetite,  heulandite,  liiumonitc,  fibrous  gypsum,  malachite,  mesolite, 
native  copper,  natrolite,  stilbite,  psilomRlane,  and  quartz.  Obsidian,  malachite,  gold, 
and  copper  are  found  at  Cajje  d'Or ;  jasper  and  fine  quartz  crystals,  on  Spencer's 
Island ;  augite,  amianthus,  pyrites,  and  wad,  at  Parrsboro' ;  and  both  at  Five  Islands 
and  Scoi.  'man's  Bay  there  are  beautlf  'i  specimens  of  moss  agate.  At  Cornwallis 
is  found  the  rare  mineral  called  Wichtisite  (resembling  obsidian,  in  gray  and  deep 
blue  colors),  which  is  only  known  in  one  other  place  on  earth,  at  Wichtis,  in  Fin- 
land. The  purple  and  violet  quartz,  or  amethyst,  of  the  Minacj  shores,  is  of  great 
beautjr  and  value.  A  Blomidon  amethyst  is  in  the  crown  of  France,  and  it  is  now 
270  years  since  the  Sieur  de  Monts  carried  several  large  amethysts  from  Partridge 
Island  to  Henri  IV .  of  France.  These  gems  are  generally  found  iu  geodes,  or  after 
fresh  falls  of  trap-rock. 

Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'  Or, 

A  bi-weekly  stage  runs  W.  from  Parrsboro'  through  grand  coast  scenery, 
for  28  M.,  passing  the  hamlets  of  Fox  Harbor  and  Port  Greville,  and  stop- 
ping at  Advocate  Harbor.  This  is  a  sequestered  marine  hamlet,  devoted 
to  shipbuilding  and  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  aad  lias  about  600  inhabitants. 
It  is  about  60  M.  from  Amherst,  by  a  road  leading  across  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  through  Apple  River  (see  page  80).  Some  of  the  finest  marine 
scenery  in  the  Provinces  is  in  this  vicinity.  3-4  M.  S.  is  the  immense 
rocky  peninsula  of  *  Cape  d'Or,  almost  cut  off  from  the  mainland  by  a  deep 
ravine,  in  whose  bottom  the  salt  tides  flow.  Cape  d'Or  is  500  ft.  high,  and 
has  recently  become  noted  for  its  rich  copper  deposits.  Off  this  point  there 
is  a  heavy  rip  on  the  flood-tide,  which  flows  with  a  velocity  of  6  knots  an 
hour,  and  rises  33  -  39  ft.    8  M.  W.  of  Advocate  Harbor,  and  visible  across 


I 


ni  . 


litii 

It 

I:  iii'  !■ 


Pi 


1 


ill  :i 


\B\ 


104      /2oM<e  21. 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


the  open  bay,  is  *  Cape  CMgnectO,  a  wonderful  headland  of  rock,  730-800 
ft.  high,  running  down  sheer  into  the  deep  waters.  This  mountain-prom- 
ontory marks  the  division  of  the  currents  of  the  Minas  and  Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape  d"Or  is  sometimes  called  Cap  Dore  on  the  ancient  maps,  and  received  its 
name  on  account  of  the  copjicr  ore  which  was  found  here  by  the  early  French  ex- 
plorers, and  was  supposed  to  l)e  gold.  Tlie  Acadians  afterwards  opened  mines  here, 
and  the  name,  Les  Mines,  originally  applied  to  a  part  of  this  shore,  was  given  to  the 
noble  salt-water  lake  to  the  E.  jlf/nas  is  either  an  English  modification  or  the 
Spanish  equivalent  thereof  Cape  d'Or  was  granted  to  the  Duke  of  Chandos  many 
years  ago,  but  he  did  not  continue  the  mining  operations. 


After  leaving  Parrsboro'  the  steamer  runs  W.  through  the  passage  be- 
tween Cape  Blomidon  and  Cape  Sharp,  which  is  3^  AI.  wide,  and  is  swe])t 
by  the  tide  at  the  rate  of  6  -  8  knots  an  hour.  On  the  r.  the  ravines  of 
Diligent  River  and  Fox  River  break  the  iron-bound  coasts  of  Cumberland 
County;  and  on  the  1.  is  a  remarkable  promontory,  7  M.  long  and  1  M. 
wide,  with  an  altitude  of  400  feet,  running  W.  from  Blomidon  between 
the  channel  and  the  semicircular  bight  of  Scotsman's  Baj'.  Cape  Split 
is  the  end  of  this  sea-dividing  mountain,  beyond  which  the  S.  shores 
fall  suddenly  awa}',  and  the  steamer  enters  the  Minas  Channel.  12  jM. 
beyond  Cape  Split,  Spencer^s  Island  and  Cape  Spencer  are  passed  on  the 
N.,  beyond  which  are  the  massive  cliffs  of  Cape  d'Or.  On  the  1.  are  the 
unvarying  ridges  of  the  North  Alt.,  with  obscure  fishing-hamlets  along 
the  shore.  To  the  N.  the  frowning  mass  of  Cape  Chiynecto  is  seen ;  and 
the  course  passes  within  sight  of  the  lofty  and  lonely  rock  of  Isle  fh'vte, 
which  is  7  M.  from  the  nearest  shore.  It  is  1^  M.  long  and  350  !'  ',■,!!, 
and  is  exactly  intersected  by  the  parallel  of  65"  W.  from  Green wicti. 

The  steamer  now  passes  doAvn  over  the  open  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 
St.  John  is  about  62  nautical  miles  from  Isle  Haute,  in  a  straight  line,  and 
is  a  little  N.  of  W.  from  that  point,  but  the  exigencies  of  navigation  re- 
quire a  course  considerably  longer  and  more  southerly.  This  portion  of 
the  route  is  usually  traversed  at  night,  and  soon  after  passing  the  powerful 
first-class  red  revolving-light  on  Cape  Spencer  IJ^qw  Brunswick),  the  steamer 
runs  in  by  the  Partridge-Island  light,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  St.  John 
about  the  break  of  day. 

St.  John,  see  page  15. 

The  Basin  of  Minas. 

The  steamer  William  Stroud  leaves  Parrsboro'  several  times  weekly,  for  the  vil- 
lages on  the  N.  and  E.  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.  As  the  times  of  her  departure 
are  very  irregular,  owing  to  the  necessity  of  following  the  tide,  and  her  landings  vary 
according  to  circumstances,  the  following  account  relates  to  the  line  of  the  coast 
rather  than  to  her  route.  She  is  announced  to  call  at  Parrsboro',  Londonderry, 
Maitland,  Kingsport,  fc^ummerville,  and  Windsor. 

Soon  after  leaving  Parrsboro',  Frazcr's  Head  u\  passed  on  the  1.,  with 
its  clifis  elevated  nearly  400  feet  above  the  water.    About  15  SI.  E.  of 


T 


I 

I 


1^ 


I 


^ 


A. 

mm 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


Route  21.      105 


Parrsboro'  are  the  rr-^arkable  Insulated  peaks  of  the  *Five  Islands,  the 
chief  of  which  is  350  ft.  high,  rising  from  the  waters  of  the  Basin.  On  the 
adjacent  shore  is  the  village  of  Five  Islands,  occupying  a  very  picturesque 
position,  and  containing  600  inhabitants.  In  this  vicinity  are  found  iron, 
copper,  and  plumbago,  and  white-lead  is  extracted  in  considerable  quan- 
tities from  minerals  mined  among  the  hills.  Marble  was  formerly  produced 
here,  but  the  quarries  are  now  abandoned.  The  massive  ridge  variously 
riL  known  as  Mt.  Gerrish,  St.  Peter's  Mt.,  and  Red  Head,  looms  over  the  vil- 
lage to  a  height  of  500  ft.,  having  a  singularly  bold  and  alpine  character 
for  so  small  an  elevation.  On  its  lower  slopes  are  found  pockets  containing 
fine  barytes,  of  which  large  quantities  are  sent  to  the  United  States.  A 
mass  of  over  150  pounds'  weight  was  sent  from  this  place  to  the  Paris  Ex- 
position of  1867.  A  few  miles  W.  of  the  village  are  the  falls  on  the  North 
River,  which  are  90  ft.  high;  and  to  the  N.  is  the  wild  and  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  Five  Islands  may  be  visited  by  the  road 
from  Parrsboro'  (16-18  M.),  which  also  passes  near  the  North  River  Falls. 
The  most  direct  route  to  the  village  is  by  the  mail-stage  from  Debert  station, 
on  the  Intercolonial  Railway  (see  page  80). 

"  Before  them  Lay  the  outlines  of  Five  Islands,  rising  beautifully  out  of  the  water 

between  them  and  the  ar.ainland The  two  more  distant  were  rounded  and 

well  wooded ;  the  third,  which  was  midway  among  the  group,  had  lofty,  precipitous 
^j,  sides,  and  the  summit  was  dome-shaped;  the  fourth  was  like  a  table,  rifing  with 
1^  perpendicular  sides  to  the  height  of  200  ft. ,  with  a  fiat,  level  surface  above,  which 
was  all  overgrown  with  forest  trees.  The  last,  and  nearest  of  the  group,  was  by  far 
tlie  most  singular.  It  was  a  bare  rock  which  rose  irregularly  from  the  sea,  termi- 
nating at  one  end  in  a  peak  which  rose  about  200  ft.  in  the  air It  resembled, 

more  than  anything  else,  a  vast  cathedral  rising  out  of  the  sea,  the  chief  ma.«s  of  the 
rock  corresponding  with  the  main  part  of  the  cathedral,  while  the  tower  and  spire 
were  there  in  all  their  majesty.     For  this  cause  the  rock  has  received  the  name,  of 

Pinnacle  Island At  its  ba.«;e  they  saw  the  white  foam  of  breaking  surf;  while 

fir  on  high  around  its  lofty,  tern  pes  t-beaton  summit,  they  saw  myriads  of  sea-gulls. 
Gathering  in  great  white  clouds  about  this  place,  they  sported  and  chased  one  an- 
other ;  they  screamed  and  uttered  their  shiill  yells,  which  sounded  afiur  over  the 
sea."    (DeMille.) 

10  M.  beyond  these  islands  the  steamer  passes  the  loftj'  and  far-project- 
ing peninsula  of  Economy'^  Point,  and  enters  the  Cobequid  Bay  (which 
ascends  to  Truro,  a  distance  of  36  M.).  After  touching  at  Londonderry, 
on  the  N.  shore,  the  steamer  crosses  the  bay  to  MnitUind  (two  inns),  a 
busy  and  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie 
'fr         River  (see  page  82). 

The  S.  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  is  lined  with  bluffs  100-180  ft.  high, 
but  is  far  less  imposing  than  the  N.  shore.  Noel  is  about  15  M.  W.  of 
Maitland,  and  is  situated  on  a  pretty  little  bay  between  Noel  Head  and 
Burnt-Coat  Head.  It  has  300  inhabitants,  and  produces  the  mineral  called 
terra  alba,  used  in  bleaching  cottons.  It  is  not  found  elsewhere  in  Amer- 
ica,   .^.fter  leaviiig  Noel  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Burnt-Coat 

^  Ernr.nmv  Is  derived  from  the  Indian  name  Kenomee,  which  was  applied  to  the  aame 
place,  and  means  "  Sandy  I'uint. ' 


:        ■< 


B 


It 


i 


i 

'  ■ 


i! 


l! 


ft:' 


106      iZoM^c  21. 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


Head,  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  to  the  S.  W.  for  about  20  M.  to 
Walton,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  the  La  Tete  River. 
Many  thousand  tons  of  gypsum  and  plaster  of  Paris  (calcined  gypsum)  are 
annually  shipped  from  this  port  to  the  United  States.  Immense  quantities 
are  exported  also  from  the  coasts  of  Chivirie,  which  extend  from  Walton 
S.  W.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Avon  River.  The  whole  back  country  is  com- 
posed of  limestone  soil  and  gypsum-beds,  whose  mining  and  shipment 
form  an  industry  of  increasing  importance.  Beyond  the  Chivirie  coast  the 
steamer  ascends  the  Avon  River  to  Windsor. 

The  Basin  of  Minas  was  the  favorite  home  of  Qlooscap,  the  Hiawatha  of  the  Mic- 
macs,  whose  traditions  describe  him  as  an  envoy  from  the  Oreat  Spirit,  who  had  the 
form  and  habits  of  humanity,  but  was  exalted  above  all  peril  and  sickness  and  death. 
He  dwelt  apart  and  above,  in  a  great  wigwam,  and  was  attended  by  an  old  woman 
and  a  beautiful  youth,  and  "  was  never  very  far  from  any  one  of  them,"  who  re- 
ceived his  counsels.  His  power  was  unbounded  and  supernatural,  and  was  wielded 
against  the  enchantments  of  the  magicians,  while  his  wisdom  taught  the  Indians 
how  to  hunt  and  fish,  to  heal  diseases,  and  to  build  wigwams  and  canoes.  He 
named  the  constellations  in  the  heavens,  and  many  of  the  chief  points  on  the  Acadian 
shores.  X he  Basin  of  Minas  was  his  beaver-pond ;  Cape  Split  was  the  bulwark  of 
the  dara ;  and  Spencer's  Island  is  his  overturned  kettle.  He  controlled  the  ele- 
ments, and  by  his  magic  wand  led  the  caribou  and  the  bear  to  his  throne.  The 
allied  powers  of  evil  advanced  with  immense  hosts  to  overthrow  his  great  wigwam 
and  break  his  power ;  but  he  extinguished  their  camp-fires  by  night  and  summoned 
the  spirits  of  the  frost,  by  whose  endeavors  the  land  was  visited  by  an  intense  cold, 
and  the  hostile  armies  were  frozen  in  the  forest.  On  the  approach  of  the  English  he 
turned  his  huge  hunting-dogs  into  stone  and  then  passed  away ;  but  will  return 
again,  right  Spencer's  Island,  call  the  dogs  to  life,  and  once  more  dispense  his  royal 
hospitality  on  the  Minas  shores. 

"  Now  the  ways  of  beasts  and  men  waxed  evil,  and  they  greatly  vexed  Glooscap, 
and  at  length  he  could  no  longer  endure  them ;  and  he  made  a  rich  feast  by  the 
shore  of  the  great  lake  (Minas).  All  the  beasts  came  to  it ;  and  when  the  feast  was 
over,  he  got  into  a  big  canoe,  he  and  his  uncle,  the  Great  Turtle,  and  they  went 
away  over  the  big  lake,  and  the  beasts  looked  after  them  till  they  saw  them  no 
more.  And  after  they  ceased  to  see  them,  they  still  heard  their  voices  as  they  sang, 
but  the  sounds  grew  fainter  and  fainter  in  the  distance,  and  at  last  they  wholly  died 
away ;  and  then  deep  silence  fell  on  them  all,  and  a  great  marvel  came  to  pass, 
and  the  beasts  who  had  tiP  now  spoken  but  one  language  no  longer  were  able  to 
understand  each  other,  and  they  all  fled  away,  each  his  own  way,  and  never  again 
have  they  met  together  in  council.  Until  the  day  when  Glooscap  shall  return  to 
restore  the  Golden  Age,  and  make  men  and  animals  dwell  once  more  together  in 
amity  and  peace,  all  Nature  mourns.  The  tradition  states  that  on  his  departure 
from  Acadia  the  great  snowy  owl  retired  to  the  deep  forests  to  return  no  more  until 
he  could  come  to  welcome  Glooscap ;  and  in  those  sylvan  depths  the  owls,  even  yet, 
repeat  to  the  night, '  Koo  koo  skoos !  Koo  koo  skoos ! '  which  is  to  say,  in  the  In- 
dian tongue,  '  0, 1  am  sorry !  0, 1  am  sorry  ! '  And  the  loons,  who  had  been  the 
huntsmen  of  Glooscap,  go  restlessly  up  and  down  through  the  world,  seeking  vainly 
for  their  master,  whom  they  cannot  find,  and  wailing  sadly  because  they  find  him 
not." 


JO  M.  to 
e  River. 
um)are 
lantities 
Walton 
is  com- 
lipment 
oast  the 


the  Mic 
had  the 
d  death. 
1  woman 
who  re- 
I  wielded 
Indians 
3es.  He 
Acadian 
wark  of 
the  ele- 
le.  The 
wigwam 
nmoned 
ise  cold, 
glish  he 
1  return 
lis  royal 

looscap, 
1  by  the 
iOBt  was 
ey  went 
hem  no 
;y  sangr, 
lily  died 
to  psujs, 
able  to 
r  again 
turn  to 
ther  in 
parturo 
re  until 
^en  yet, 
the  In- 
;en  the 
;  vainly 
ad  him 


N'.: 


;,i ::! 


pi'   ! 


I 


!!' 


M  i 


l^6Sm 


1^^ 


I  n 


m 


i' 


iil 


«?f 


ijfiii 


^ 


VP 


THE  LAND  OF  EVANGELINE.        Route  22.       107 

22.  The  Land  of  Evangeline. 

This  beautiful  and  deeply  interesting  district  is  visited  with  the  greatest 
ease  from  the  academic  town  of  WolfviUe  (  Village  Hotel;  Acadia  Hotel)^ 
which  is  127  M.  from  St.  John  and  63  M.  from  Halifax  (by  Route  18). 
This  quiet  settlement  is  situated  on  the  Cornwallis  River,  and  is  engaged 
in  shipbuilding  and  farming.  It  has  800  inhabitants,  four  churches,  a 
ladies'  seminary,  and  the  Horton  Academy  (4  teachers,  60  students). 
The  Acadia  College  is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  5  professors,  40  studencs, 
and  150  alumni  (in  18  years  of  existence).  The  college  buildings  occupy 
a  fine  situation  on  a  hill  which  overlooks  "  tliosc  meadows  on  the  Basin  of 
Minas  whicli  Mr.  Longfellow  has  made  more  sadly  poetical  than  any  other 
spot  on  the  Western  Continent."  The  *  view  from  the  belfry  of  the  college 
is  the  most  beautiful  in  this  vicinity,  or  even,  perhaps,  in  the  Maritime 
Provinces.  Far  across  the  Cornwallis  Valley  to  the  N.  is  the  North  Mt., 
which  terminates,  15  M.  away  (21  M.  by  road),  in  the  majestic  bluff  of  Cape 
Blomidon,  dropping  into  the  Basin  of  Minas,  whoso  bright  waters  occupy 
a  broad  section  of  the  field  of  vision.  (See  Route  21,  for  Cape  Blomidon 
and  the  Indian  traditions  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.)  To  the  N.  E.  is  the 
"great  meadow"  which  gave  name  and  site  to  the  village  of  Grand  Pr6. 

A  good  road  leads  E.  (in  3  M.)  from  Wolfville  to  Lower  Horton,  a  scat- 
tered hamlet  among  the  hills.  By  passing  down  from  this  point  to  the 
meadows  just  beyond  the  railwaj'-station  of  Grand  Pr6,  the  traveller 
reaches  the  site  of  the  ancient  village.  Standing  on  the  platform  of  the 
station,  he  sees  a  large  tree  at  the  comer  of  the  field  on  the  left  front. 
Near  that  point  are  the  faint  remains  of  the  foundations  of  the  Acadian 
church.  The  tradition  of  the  country-side  claims  that  the  aged  willow- 
tree  near  bj'  grows  on  the  site  of  the  shop  of  Basil  the  Blacksmith,  and 
that  cinders  have  been  dug  up  at  its  foot.  The  destruction  effected  by 
the  British  troops  was  complete,  and  there  are  now  no  relics  of  the  an- 
cient settlement,  except  the  gnarled  and  knotty  trees  of  the  orchards,  the 
lines  of  willows  along  the  old  roads,  and  the  sunken  hollows  which  indi- 
cate the  sites  of  former  cellars.  Near  the  shore  is  shown  the  place  where 
the  ex-'les  were  put  on  shipboard.  A  road  leads  across  the  rich  diked 
marsh  in  2  -  3  M.  to  Long  Island,  a  slight  elevation  fronting  on  the  Basin 
of  Minas,  and  on  Avhich  dwells  a  farming  population  of  about  120  persons. 
To  the  N.  E.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Gaspereaux  River,  and  on  the  W.  the 
Cornwallis  River  is  discharged.  The  early  Acadians  reclaimed  these  rich 
meadows  from  the  sweep  of  the  tides  by  building  light  dikes  to  tui*n  the 
water.  There  were  2,100  acres  of  this  gained  land  in  their  Grand  Pr^, 
but  the  successive  advancing  of  other  lines  of  aggression  has  driven  back 
the  sea  from  a  much  larger  area,  all  of  which  is  very  productive  and  val- 
uable. In  1810  the  broad  meadow  between  Grand  Pr6  and  Wolfville  was 
enclosed  by  new  dikes  and  added  to  the  reclaimed  domain. 


108       Iloutc  22. 


GRAND   rilE. 


\ 


■li ;  ' 
'  'i  ii  ■ 


■  I ; 


.  t, 


I 

•1 


m 


.  I 


Noble's  MassBchnsetts  rcglmtnt  was  cantoned  at  Grand  Pr6  In  the  winter  of 
174f5-7.  During  a  heavy  snow -storm,  before  dawn  on  Feb.  11,  the  town  was  at- 
tacked by  840  trench  troops,  arranged  in  10  divisions,  and  commanded  by  Coulon 
de  VUliers.  The  sentinels  were  vigilant, and  gave  the  alarm  as  soon  as  the  hostile 
columns  were  t^een  over  the  lolty  snow-dritts  ;  but  the  assailants  dui^hrd  in  fearlessly 
and  soon  carried  the  strongest  oi'  tlie  barracks.  Col.  Noble  was  slain  while  fighting 
in  his  shirt.  134  Americans  were  killed  and  wounded  and  G9  wire  made  pritoners ; 
21  of  the  attacking  party  were  killed  and  wounded.  In  the  morning  350  of  the 
Massachusetts  men  were  concentrated  in  a  stone  building,  and  fought  with  much 
bravery ,  the  combat  being  waged  from  house  to  house  through  the  streets.  IJy 
noon  their  ammunition  was  expended,  and  they  surrendered  to  the  French,  beii;g 
paroled  and  allowed  to  march  out  with  the  honors  of  war.  A  convivial  dinner  was 
then  enjoyed  by  the  officers  of  the  whilom  hostile  forces,  and  the  Americans  were 
sent  to  Annapolis  under  an  Acadian  guard,  while  the  French  soon  afterward  retired 
to  Beaubassin,  bearing  their  captured  artillery  and  four  stands  of  colors  which  had 
been  taken  in  the  battle. 

The  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  were  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century 
by  immigrants  from  La  Rochelle,  Saintonge,  and  Poitou.  They  soon  erected  dikes 
by  which  the  tide  was  kept  olT  from  the  meadows,  and  from  these  rich  reclaimed 
lands  they  gathered  great  crops.  Several  cargoes  of  gniin  were  exported  to  Boston 
every  year,  and  the  settlement  soon  became  large  and  prosjierous.  The  Indians 
regarded  these  new  neighbors  with  affection,  anil  lived  on  terms  of  perfect  peace 
with  them.  During  the  wars  between  France  and  Great  Britain,  the  Acadians  were 
etrongly  patriotic,  and  took  np  arms  in  the  cause  of  their  native  land.  Intensely 
devoted  to  the  lloman  Catholic  Church,  and  considering  these  wars  as  in  the  nature 
of  crusades,  they  fought  valiantly  and  well. 

But  when  Nova  Scotia  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain  (in  1713),  their  position 
became  very  awkward  and  painful.  Many  of  them  refused  to  take  the  oath  of  alle- 
giance, and  for  others  a  modified  formula  was  framed.  The  emissaries  of  the  French 
power  at  Louisbourg  and  Quebec  circulated  among  them  and  maintained  their  loy- 
alty to  France  at  a  fever  heat,  while  their  priests  acted  continually  on  the  same 
policy,  and  kept  np  the  hostility  to  the  conquerors.  The  British  Provincial  govern- 
ment was  located  at  Annapolis,  and  though  its  laws  were  mild  and  clement,  it  could 
not  command  respect  on  account  of  its  physical  weakness.  Under  the.«e  circuni- 
Btanccs,  hundreds  of  the  Acadians  joined  the  French  armies  during  every  war  be- 
tween the  two  powers,  and  proved  dangerous  foemon,  on  account  of  their  knowledge 
of  the  land.  British  settlers  were  unwilling  to  locate  among  these  people  on  account 
of  their  hostility,  and  the  fairest  lands  of  the  Province  were  thus  held  by  an  alien 
Bnd  hostile  population.  T'^e  great  conflict  between  England  and  France  in  the  New 
World  was  still  in  full  course,  and  the  latter  power  was  in  possession  of  the  Canadas. 
The  majority  of  the  Acadians  were  doubtless  peaceful  and  lionest,  occupied  only 
with  their  local  aflairs ;  but  some  of  them  were  hostile  and  troublesome,  and  the 
anomalous  position  of  these  alien  subjects  was  a  source  of  incessant  danger  to  the 
£nglish  power.  It  was  therefore  determined  in  the  council  at  Halifax,  in  1755,  that 
they  must  either  take  an  unconditional  oatli  of  allegiance  to  Great  Britain  or  leave 
the  country.  Deputations  were  called  in  from  all  the  Freneli  settlements,  and  the 
alternatives  were  clearly  set  forth  before  tlicm.  Almost  unanimously  they  refused 
to  take  the  oath,  preferring  (they  said)  exile  and  confiscation  to  such  an  act,  and 
eeeming  to  regard  their  neutrality  of  the  past  45  years  as  having  become  a  vested 
right.  It  seems  as  if  diplomacy  and  argument  were  tried  to  their  utmost  limit  upon 
these  unyielding  recusants,  and  it  then  became  necessai-y  for  the  honor  and  safety 
of  the  Province,  to  resort  to  sterner  measures.  It  was  resolved  that  the  whole  Aca- 
dian people  should  be  banished  to  the  southern  American  colonics,  and  that  their 
estates  and  buildings,  cattle  and  vessels,  should  be  declared  forfeited  to  the  Crown. 

The  Acadians  were  taken  by  surprise.  A  British  detachment  and  fleet  destroyed 
all  the  villages,  farms,  and  churches,  on  the  Chignecto  Basin  and  the  Petitccdiac 
River,  sweeping  up  many  prisoners  and  meeting  with  some  sharp  fighting.  Monc- 
ton  destroyed  Shediac,  llemsheg,  and  other  towns  on  the  Gulf  coast ;  Murray  gath- 
ered up  the  people  about  Windsor  and  to  the  E. ;  and  Ilandficld  put  the  French 
Annapolitans  on  shipboard,  excei)t  a  few  who  escaped  into  the  woods.  Winslow 
collected  1,923  persons  at  Grai^.d  l»r<^  end  embarked  them,  and  burred  255  houses, 
276  barns,  r.nd  11  mills.  (\Vil;^low  was  a  Massachusetts  officer,  and  10  j  tan;  later 
his  own  i;;n.iiy  was  driven  into  exile  for  liostility  to  America.)  The  people  of  Grand 
Vt6  were  sent  to  North  Carolina,  A  irginia,  and  Maryland. 


1 


ity 


GRAND  PRE. 


Route  2z 


109 


^ 


"  TTliile  wo  800  plainly  that  England  coulJ  never  really  control  this  Provlnco 
while  tlicy  remained  in  it,  all  our  ft'eiinps  of  humanity  are  affected  by  the  removal 

itself,  and  still  more  by  tlie  .severity  of  the  attendant  circumstances They  were 

the  victims  of  preat  error  on  their  own  |>art,  and  of  delusive  views  that  false  friends 
had  instilled  into  their  minds,  and  tlic  imi)ulses  of  national  aud)ition  and  jealousy 
prccipitiited  their  fate.  It  is,  however,  some  consolatiou  to  know  that  very  many  of 
the  exiles  returned  within  a  few  years  to  tlicir  native  land,  and  thouph  not  restored 
to  their  native  farms,  they  became  an  inte;;ral  and  respected  portion  of  our  popula- 
tion, displaying,  under  all  chanRi^s,  those  simple  virtues  that  they  had  inherited, — 
the  same  modest,  humble,  and  peaceable  disposition,  that  had  been  their  early  attri- 
butes."   (Murdoch.)    (Sec  also  ("lark,  Ciiezzetcook,  and  Tii.xc.vpie.) 

In  1760  a  largo  colony  of  families  from  Connecticut,  in  a  fleet  of  22  vessels  con- 
voyed by  a  man-of-war,  arrived  at  Grand  Pre  and  occupied  the  deserted  farms. 
"  'i'hey  found  GO  ox-carts  and  as  many  yokes,  which  the  unfortunate  French  had 
u.-ed  in  conveying  their  baggage  to  tho  vessels  that  carried  them  away  from  tho 
country  ;  and  at  the  skirts  of  the  forest  heaps  of  the  bones  of  sheep  and  horned  cat- 
tic,  that,  deserted  by  their  owners,  had  perished  in  winter  from  tho  lack  of  food. 
They  also  met  with  a  few  straggling  families  of  Acadians  who  had  escaped  from  tho 
scrutinizing  search  of  tho  soldiers  at  tho  removal  of  their  countrymen,  and  who, 
afraid  of  sharing  tho  same  fate,  had  not  ventured  to  till  the  land,  or  to  appear  in 
tho  open  country.  They  had  eaten  no  bread  for  llvo  years,  and  had  subsisted  on 
vegetables,  fish,  and  tho  more  hardy  part  of  the  cattle  that  had  survived  the  sever- 
ity of  tho  first  winter  of  their  abandonment."    {IIalibcrton  ) 

"  This  is  tho  forest  primeval.    Tho  murmuring  pines  and  the  hemlocks, 
Ueardeil  with  nioss,  and  in  garments  green,  indistinct  in  the  twilight, 
Stand  like  Druids  of  eld,  with  voices  s;id  and  prophetic, 
Stand  like  harpers  hoar,  with  beards  that  rest  on  their  bo.soms. 
Loud  from  its  rocky  caverns,  the  decp-voiecd  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  accents  dlscousolatc  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest. 

"  This  IS  the  forest  primeval;  but  where  are  the  hearts  that  beneath  it 
liOnped  like  the  roe,  when  he  hears  in  the  woodland  the  voice  of  tho  huntsman? 
Wh((rc  is  the  thatch-roofed  viUage,  the  home  of  Acadian  farmers, — 
Men  who.se  lives  glided  on  like  rivers  that  water  tho  woodlands, 
Darkened  by  shadows  of  earth,  but  reflecting  an  image  of  heaven? 
Waste  are  those  pleasant  farms,  and  tho  farmers  forever  departed ! 
Scattered  like  dust  and  leaves,  when  the  mighty  blasts  of  October 
Seize  them,  and  whirl  them  aloft,  and  sprinkle  them  far  o'er  the  ocean. 
Naught  but  tradition  remains  of  the  beautiful  village  of  Grand  Pr»S. 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  tho  shores  of  tho  Basin  of  Minas, 
Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand  Pr6 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.     Vast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward, 
Giving  tho  village  its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  without  number. 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  raised  with  labor  incessant, 
Shut  out  tho  turbulent  tides ;  but  at  certain  seasons  the  flood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wander  at  will  o'er  the  meadows. 
West  and  south  there  were  fields  of  flax,  and  orchards  and  corn-fields 
Spreading  afar  and  unfencod  o'er  the  plain ;  and  away  to  the  northward 
Blomidon  rose,  and  tho  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  tho  happy  valley,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 
There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  K'posed  the  Acadian  village. 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  fr.ames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut, 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries. 
Thatched  were  the  roofs,  with  dormer-windows  ;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protected  and  shaded  the  doorway. 
There  in  tho  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  tho  sunset 
Lighted  tho  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys, 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirtles 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distaffs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  gossiping  looms,  whose  noisy  Ehuttles  within  doors 
Mingled  their  sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  songs  of  the  mat  lens 


!•    I! 


110      R&iUe22. 


GRAND  PRE. 


\k 


m 


rm 


' 


II  : 


m  i 


Solemnly  tlown  the  street  cnmc  the  parish  priest,  miil  the  chiUlrcn 
Pauwd  in  tluir  piny  to  kiss  the  hand  he  extended  to  bless  thfni. 
Revenfnd  walked  he  among  them  ;  nnd  up  rose  mtttrons  nnd  maidens, 
Hailing  his  slow  approach  with  words  of  alTectionatc  welcome. 
Then  came  the  laborers  home  from  the  field,  and  i-ereneiy  the  sun  Bank 
Pown  to  his  rest,  and  twilight  prevailed.     Anon  from  the  belfry 
Softly  the  Angelas  sounded,  and  over  the  roofs  of  the  village 
Columns  of  pale  blue  smoke,  like  clouds  of  incense  ascending, 
Rose  from  a  hundred  hearths,  the  homes  of  jieaco  and  contentment. 
Thus  dwelt  together  in  l(t%e  tliesc  simple  Acadian  farmers,  — 
Dwelt  in  the  love  of  Ood  and  of  man.    Alike  were  they  free  from 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  the  tyrant,  and  envy,  the  vice  of  republics. 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  doors,  nor  bars  to  their  windows  ; 
But  their  dwellings  were  open  as  day  and  the  hearts  of  the  owners  ; 
There  the  richest  was  poor,  iiiiJ  the  poorest  lived  in  abundance." 

The  poet  then  describes  "  the  gentle  Kvanf^  ",,  the  pride  of  the  vil- 
lage." 

"  Fair  was  she  to  behold,  that  maiden  of  seventeen  summers, 
Black  were  her  eyes  as  the  berry  that  grows  on  the  thorn  by  the  wayside, 
Black,  yet  how  softly  they  gleamed  beneath  the  brown  shade  of  her  tresses ! 
Sweet  was  her  breath  as  the  breath  of  kine  that  feed  in  the  meadows. 
When  in  the  harvest  heat  she  bore  to  the  reapers  at  noontide 
Flagons  of  home-browed  ale,  ah  !  fair  in  sooth  was  the  maiden. 
Fairer  was  she  when,  on  Sunday  mom,  while  the  bell  from  its  turret 
Sprinkled  with  holy  sounds  the  air,  as  the  priest  with  his  hyssop 
Sprinkles  the  congregation,  and  scatters  blessings  upon  them. 
Down  the  long  street  she  passed,  with  lier  chaplet  of  beads  and  her  missal, 
Wearing  her  Norman  cap,  and  her  kirtle  of  blue,  and  the  ear-rings, — 
Brought  in  the  olden  time  from  France,  and  since,  as  an  heirloom, 
Handed  down  from  mother  to  child,  through  long  generations. 
But  a  celestial  brightness  — a  more  ithereal  beauty  — 
Shone  on  her  face  and  encircled  her  form,  when,  after  confession. 
Homeward  serenely  she  walked,  with  God's  benediction  upon  her. 
When  she  had  passed,  it  seemed  like  the  ceasing  of  exquisite  music." 

After  a  beautiful  description  of  the  peaceful  social  Hfe  of  the  Acadians, 
nnd  the  betrothal  of  Evangeline,  the  poet  tells  of  the  arrival  of  the  English 
fleet,  the  convocation  of  the  people,  the  royal  mandate,  the  destruction  of 
Grand  Pr^,  and  the  weary  exile  of  the  villagers. 

"  So  passed  the  morning  away.    And  lo !  with  a  summons  sonorous 
Sounded  the  bell  from  its  tower,  and  over  the  meadow  a  drum  beat. 
Thronged  erelong  was  the  church  with  men.    Without,  in  the  churchyard. 
Waited  the  women.    They  stood  by  the  graves,  and  hung  on  the  headstones 
Garlands  of  autumn-leaves  and  evergreens  fresh  from  the  forest. 
Then  came  the  guard  from  the  ships,  and  marching  proudly  among  them 
Entered  the  sacred  portal.    With  loud  and  dissonant  clangor 
Echoed  the  sound  of  their  brazen  drums  from  ceiling  and  casement, — 
J^choeti  a  moment  only,  and  slowly  the  ponderous  portal 
Closed,  and  in  silence  the  crowd  awaited  the  will  of  the  soldiers. 
Then  uprose  their  commander,  and  spake  from  the  steps  of  the  altar, 
Holding  aloft  in  his  hands,  with  its  seals,  the  royal  commission. 
'  Ye  are  convened  this  day,'  he  said,  '  by  his  Majesty's  orders. 
Clement  and  kind  has  he  been  ;  but  how  have  you  answered  his  kindness, 
Let  your  own  hearts  reply  I    To  my  natural  make  and  my  temper 
Painful  the  task  is  I  do,  which  to  you  I  know  must  be  grievous. 
Yet  must  I  bow  and  obey,  and  deliver  the  will  of  our  monarch  ; 
Namely,  that  all  your  lands,  and  dwellings,  and  cattle  of  all  kinds 
Forfeited  be  to  the  crown  ;  and  that  you  yourselves  from  this  province 
Be  transported  to  other  lands.    God  grant  you  may  dwell  there 
Ever  as  faithful  subjects,  a  hap],y  and  peaceable  people  ! 
Prisoners  now  I  declare  you  ;  for  such  is  his  Majesty's  pleasure.' 


.. 


•f* 


tvss 


GRAND  PR^. 


Route  22.      Ill 


nk 


the  vil- 


'ide, 
resses ! 


lissal, 


Lcndians, 
i  English 
iction  of 


yard, 
stones 

cm 


388, 


There  disorder  prevailed,  and  the  tumult  and  «tlr  of  embarking. 

Busily  plied  tht!  Treighted  boatfl  ;  and  in  the  odnfiisioii 

Wives  were  torn  from  tlieir  luishaiidH.aiid  niotlu-r.-i,  too  late,  «ow  their  children 

Left  on  the  land,  extending  tlieir  armx,  with  wildoHt  entreutieH. 

Suddenly  rose  from  the  south  a  llRht,  as  in  autumn  the  Mood-red 

Moon  cliuiba  the  crystal  walls  of  heaven,  and  o'er  the  horizon 

Titan-like  stretches  its  hundred  hands  upon  mountain  and  meadow, 

Seizing  the  rocks  and  the  rivers,  and  piling  huge  shadows  together. 

Broader  and  ever  broader  it  gleamed  on  the  roofs  of  the  village, 

Gleamed  on  the  sky  and  the  sea,  and  the  ships  that  lay  in  the  roadstead. 

Columns  of  shining  smoke  uprose,  and  flashes  of  flame  wero 

Thrust  through  their  folds  and  withdrawn,  like  the  quivering  hands  of  a  martyr. 

Then  as  the  wind  scixed  the  giecds  and  the  burning  thatch,  and  uplifting, 

Whirled  them  aloft  through  Hie  air,  at  once  from  a  hundred  house-tops 

Started  the  dhceted  smoke,     ith  flashes  of  flame  intermingled. 

Many  a  weary  year  had  passed  since  the  burning  of  Grand  Prd, 

When  on  the  falling  tide  the  freighted  vessels  departed. 

Bearing  a  nation,  with  all  its  household  gods,  into  exile, 

Exile  without  an  end,  and  without  an  example  in  story. 

Far  asunder,  on  separate  coasts,  the  Acadians  landed  ; 

Scattered  were  they,  like  flakes  of  snow,  when  the  wind  from  the  northeast 

Strikes  aslant  through  the  fogs  that  darken  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 

friendless,  liomeless,  hopeless,  they  wandered  from  city  to  city, 

From  the  cold  lakes  of  the  North  to  .sultry  Southern  savannas, — 

From  the  bleak  shores  of  the  sea  to  the  lands  where  the  Father  of  Waters 

Seizes  tlie  hills  in  his  hands,  and  drags  them  down  to  the  ocean, 

Deep  in  their  sands  to  bury  the  scattered  bones  of  the  mammoth. 

Friends  they  sought  and  homes ;  and  many,  despairing,  lieart-broken, 

Asked  of  the  earth  but  a  grave,  and  no  longer  a  friend  or  a  fireside. 

Written  their  history  stands  on  tablets  of  stone  in  the  churcliyards." 

Longfellow's  Evangeline. 

•'  Much  as  we  may  admire  the  various  bays  and  lakes,  the  inlets,  promontories, 
and  straits,  the  mountains  and  woodlands  of  this  rarely  visited  corner  of  creation, — 
and,  compared  with  it,  we  can  boast  of  no  coast  scenery  so  beautiful,  —  the  valley  of 
Grand  Pre  transcends  all  the  rest  in  the  Province.  Only  our  valley  of  Wyoming, 
as  an  inland  picture,  may  match  it,  both  in  beauty  and  tradition.  One  had  its  Ger- 
trude, the  other  its  Evangeline. "    (Cozzens.  ) 

"  Beyond  is  a  lofty  and  extended  chain  of  hills,  presenting  a  vast  chasm,  appar- 
ently burst  out  by  the  waters  of  19  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  hero 
escape  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  variety  and  extent  of  this  prospect,  the  beauti- 
ful verdant  vale  of  the  Gaspereaux  ;  the  extended  township  of  Ilorton  interspersed 
with  groves  of  wood  and  cultured  fields,  and  the  cloud-capped  summit  of  the  lofty 
cape  that  terminates  the  chain  of  the  North  Mt.,form  an  assemblage  of  objects 
rarely  united  with  so  striking  an  effect." 

"  It  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  another  landscape  at  all  equal  to  that  which  is 
beheld  from  the  hill  that  overlooks  the  site  of  the  ancient  village  of  Minas.  On 
either  hand  extend  undulating  hills  richly  cultivated,  and  intermingled  with  farm- 
houses and  orchards.  From  the  base  of  these  highlands  extend  the  alluvial  mead- 
ows which  add  so  much  to  the  appearance  and  wealth  of  Ilorton.  The  Grand 
Prairie  is  skirted  by  Boot  and  Long  Islands,  whose  fertile  and  well-tilled  fields  are 
sheltered  from  the  north  by  evergreen  forests  of  dark  foliage.  Beyond  are  the  wide 
expanse  of  waters  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  the  lower  part  of  Cornwallis,  and  the  isles 
and  blue  highlands  of  the  opposite  shores.  The  charm  of  this  prospect  consists  in 
the  unusual  combination  of  hill,  dale,  woods,  and  cultivated  fields ;  in  the  calm 
beauty  of  agricultural  scenery  ;  and  in  the  romantic  wildness  of  the  distant  forests. 
During  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  immense  herds  of  cattle  are  seen  quietly 
cropping  the  herbage  of  the  Grand  Prairie ;  while  numerous  vessels  plying  on  the 
Basin  convey  a  pleasing  evidence  of  the  prosperity  and  resources  of  this  fertile  dis- 
trict."   (H.UI3UET0N.) 


112     Route  23. 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


I?!-h. 


M 


!'■    I 


w 

•'■M 

v. 

23.   Annapolis  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth.  —  The  Tus- 

ket  Lakes. 

From  St.  John  or  Halifax  to  Annapolis  Royal,  see  Route  18. 

The  Western- Coutnirs  Hnilu'rii/  was  be^run  in  September,  1874,  and  is  to  be  finished 
from  Yarmouth  to  Mcteghan  (;}»»  M.)  by  the_Mimnier  of  1875.  It  will  not  reach  An- 
napolis before  the  latter  part  of  the  year  187tj. 

The  Iioyul  mail-stjige  leaves  Annapolis  daily  on  arrival  of  the  morninR  train  from 
Halifax,  and  runs  S.  W.  to  Clementsport  and  Digby  (distance,  20^  M. ;  fare,  $  1.50). 
A  pleasanter  route  is  to  go  from  .\iinapolis  to  Digby  by  the  steamboat  {1m'.  ;  sec 
page  85),  which  makes  four  trips  weekly.  On  boat-days  the  stage  leaves  Digby  for 
Yarmouth  about  one  hour  after  her  arrival ;  on  othcrdays  it  Ivavesat  G  p.  m.  Digby 
to  Yarmouth,  70  M. ;  fare,  S  4. 

Itinerary.  —  Annapolis  Koyal ;  Clementsport,  8^  M.  :  Victoria  Bridge,  ISJ ; 
Smith's  Cove,  1(J;  Digby,  20 .V ;  St.  Mary-s  Bay,27J;  Weymouth  Road.  32;  Wey- 
mouth Bridge,  38 ;  Belliveau  Cove,  43  ;  Clare,  50:  Bleteghan  Cove,  59;  Cheticamp, 
6C  ;  rear  River,  74 ;  Yarmouth  Lakes,  81 ;  Yarmouth,  90. 

The  traveller  will  see  from  the  time-table  that  this  is  a  night-journey ,  and  the  return 
from  Yarmouth  to  Digby  is  also  efToctcd  by  night.  The  ensuing  descriptions,  there- 
fore, .vill  bo  useful  only  to  such  as  stop  off  at  some  of  the  roadside  villages,  or  make 
the  journey  in  their  own  carriages,  by  daylight. 

Aniinpolis  Royal  to  Higby,  soo  pages  84,  85  (reverjscd). 

On  leaving  Digby  the  stage  follows  the  highway  to  the  S.  W.,  traversing 
the  farming  settlement  of  Marshalltown,  and  cresses  the  isthmus  between 
the  Annapolis  Basin  and  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  distance  of  about  7  M.  Thence- 
forward, for  over  30  M.,  the  highway  lies  near  the  beautiful  *St.  Mary's 
Bay,  which  is  about  35  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  from  3  to  10  M.  On  the 
opposite  shore  are  the  higliland.s  of  Digby  Neck  (see  Route  24),  a  continu- 
ation of  the  North  Mt.  range.  On  this  shore  a  wide  belt  of  level  land  has 
been  left  between  the  receding  range  of  the  South  Mt.  (or  Blue  Mts.)  and 
the  bay,  and  the  water-front  is  occupied  by  numerous  farms. 

In  St.  Mary's  Bay  the  fleet  of  the  S'-ui  de  Slonts  lay  for  two  weeks,  in  1G04,  while 
the  shores  were  being  explored  by  boafs-crews.  The  mariners  were  greatly  rejoiced 
in  finding  what  they  s;ipposcd  to  be  valuable  deposits  of  iron  and  silver.  The 
Parisian  priest  Aubry  was  lost  on  one  of  these  excursions,  and  roamed  through  the 
woods  for  10  days,  eating  nothing  uut  berries,  until  auother  vessel  took  him  off. 
The  name  Bale  de  Ste.  Mark  \:vi&  given  !•;  Champlain. 

Bn(jhto7i  is  at  the  head  of  th.e  baj',  nnd  is  a  pleasant  agricultural  village 
with  a  small  inn.  The  hamlets  of  Barton  (or  Spcch^'s  Cove)  and  GUberVs 
Cove  are  soon  passed,  and  the  stage  enters  tiie  pretty  village  of  Weymouth 
(two  inns),  a  seaport  which  builds  some  handsome  vessels,  and  has  a  snug 
little  trade  with  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sissiboo  River,  on  whose  oi)posite  shore  is  the  Acadian  hamlet  of 
New  Edinburyh.  Across  St.  ihiry's  Bay  is  the  maritime  village  of  SiiiuJij 
Cove. 

The  stage  now  ascends  the  r.  bank  of  the  Sissiboo  River  to  Weymouth 
Br'uhje  (Jones's  Hotel),  a  maritime  village  of  about  the  same  size  as  Wey- 
mouth. Jt  is  4  M.  from  tiie  mouth  of  the  river;  and  2-3  M.  to  the  K. 
are  the  Sissiboo  Falls.  The  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  regained  at  Bi^lli- 
t'cau  Cove  (small  iuu),  an  Acadiuu  Lauilut  chieOy  devoted  to  agriculture 


^1 


CLAEE. 


Route  23.      113 


e  Tus- 


ain  from 

1.50). 


<oc. 


See 


,'by  for 
Digby 


k 


and  sl.'ipbuilding.  From  tliis  point  down  to  Beaver  River,  and  beyond 
through  the  Tuskct  and  Pubn  ice  regions,  the  shore  is  occupied  by  a  range 
of  hamlets  which  are  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  old  Acadian- 
French. 

The  Clare  Settlements  were  founded  about  1763  by  the  descendants  of  the 
Acadians  who  had  buuu  exiled  to  New  £nglund.  After  the  conquest  of  Canada  these 
unfortunate  wanderers  were  suffered  to  return  to  Nova  Scotia,  but  they  found  their 
former  domains  about  tlie  Itasin  of  Minas  already  occupied  by  the  New-£nglander8. 
So  they  removed  to  the  les.s  fertile  but  still  pleasant  shores  of  Clare,  and  founded  new 
homes,  alternating  tlieir  farm  labors  with  fishing-voyages  on  St.  Mary's  Bay  or  the 
outer  sea.  Tl  lis  little  commonwealth  of  4  -  5,000  people  was  for  many  years  governed 
and  directed  by  "the  amiable  and  venerated  Abbe  Segoigne,"a  patrician  priest  who 
hail  tied  from  France  during  the  Revolution  of  1793.  His  power  and  influence  were 
unlimited,  and  were  exerted  only  for  the  peace  and  well-being  of  his  people.  Under 
this  benign  guidance  the  colony  flourished  amain ;  new  hamlets  arose  along  the 
sliorcs  of  the  beautiful  bay  ;  and  an  Acadian  village  was  founded  ir  the  oak-groves 
of  Tusket.  M.  Segoigne  also  conciliated  the  Micmacs,  learned  their  language,  and 
wa.s  highly  venerated  by  all  their  tribe. 

*•  When  tlie  traveller  ento-s  Clare,  the  houses,  the  household  utensils,  the  foreign 
language,  and  the  uniform  costume  of  the  iiiliabitants  excite  his  surprise  ;  because 
no  parish  of  Nova  Scotia  has  sucli  a  distinctive  character.  The  Acadians  are  far 
behind  their  neighbors  in  modes  of  agriculture  :  they  show  a  great  reluctance  to 
enter  the  forest,  and  in  place  of  advancing  upon  the  highlands,  they  subdivide  their 
lands  along  the  shore  and  keep  their  children  about  them.  They  preserve  their 
language  and  customs  with  a  singular  tenacity,  and  though  commerce  places  them 
in  constant  communication  with  the  English,  they  never  contract  marriage  with 
them,  nor  adopt  their  manners,  nor  dwell  iu  their  villages.  This  conduct  is  not  due 
to  dislike  of  the  English  government ;  it  musk  be  attributed  rather  to  ancient  usage, 
to  the  national  character,  and  to  their  systems  of  educatiou.  But  if  they  are  infe- 
rior to  the  English  colonists  in  the  arts  wliich  strengthen  and  extend  the  influence 
of  society,  they  can  proudly  challenge  comparison  in  their  social  and  domestic  vir- 
tues. Without  ambition,  living  with  frugality,  they  regulate  their  life  according  to 
their  means;  devoted  to  their  ancient  worship,  they  arc  not  divided  by  religious 
discord ;  in  fine,  contented  with  their  lot  and  moral  in  their  habits  of  life,  they  en- 
joy perhaps  as  much  of  happiness  and  goodness  as  is  possible  in  the  frailty  of  human 
nature."    (IIalibupton.) 

"  Still  stands  the  forest  primeval ;  but  under  the  shade  of  its  branches 
DwelL  another  race   with  other  customs  and  language. 
Only  along  the  shore  of  the  mournful  and  misty  Atlantic 
Linger  a  few  Acadian  pea-sants,  whose  fathers  from  exile 
Wandered  back  to  their  native  land  to  die  in  its  bosom. 
In  the  fisherman's  cot  the  wheel  and  the  loom  arc  still  busy ; 
Maidens  still  wear  their  Norman  cups  and  their  kirtles  of  homespun, 
And  by  the  evening  fire  repeat  Evangeline's  story. 
While  from  its  rocky  caverns  the  deep-voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  accents  disconsolate  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest." 

Lo.NUFELLOW's  Evangeline. 

The  road  runs  S.  W.  from  Belliveau  Cove  to  Grosses  Coques  (300  inhabi- 
tants) and  Port  Acadie,  Clare,  and  Saulnierville,  a  line  of  hamlets  whose 
inhabitants  are  engaged  in  farming  and  ihe  fisheries.  A  road  runs  7  M. 
E.  to  New  Tusket,  an  Anglo-Acadian  village  in  the  interior,  near  the 
island-studded  Lake  Wentworth.  Metet/han  (German's  Hotel)  is  a  bay- 
side  village  of  500  inhabitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  Acadians  and  farm- 
ers. It  is  thought  that  the  Western-Counties  Railway  will  bo  completed 
from  Yarmouth  to  this  point  by  the  summer  of  1875.  Meteghan  is  the 
last  village  ou  St.  Mary's  Bay,  and  the  road  uow  turns  to  the  S.  and  passes 


fl 


If  I 

1  ' 


|r ! 

ml  ,1 

I;  I  1 

if 


114      Jtoute  23. 


YARMOUTH. 


the  inland  hamlet  of  Cheticamp.  Cape  Cove  is  an  Acadian  settlement, 
and  is  finely  situated  on  a  headland  wlilcli  faces  the  Athxntic.  Tlie  stage 
next  passes  Salmon  River  (small  inn),  and  descends  thence  (by  Brookville) 
to  Beaver  River  (inn),  the  first  English  settlement.  It  is  a  village  of  400 
inhabitants  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  near  the  promontory  of  High  Head. 
The  road  noAV  leaves  the  vicinity-  of  the  sea  and  strikes  inland  through  a 
region  of  forests  and  lakes  ;  reaching  Yarmouth  about  13  M.  S.  of  Beaver 
itiver. 

Tarmouth  ( United  States  Hotel,  $  6  -  8  a  week ;  American  Hotel)  is  a 
wealthy  and  prosperrus  seaport  on  the  S.  \V.  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  and 
is  situated  on  a  narrow  harbor  3  M.  from  the  Atlantic,  It  has  5.335  in- 
habitants, with  9  churches,  2  banks,  4  local  marine-insurance  companies, 
and  2  weekly  newspapers.  It  has  a  public  library  and  a  small  museum 
of  natural  history.  Tlie  schools  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  Province, 
and  occupy  conspicuous  buildings  on  the  ridge  back  of  the  town.  The 
Court-House  is  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town;  near  M-hich  is  the  spacious 
Baptist  church,  built  in  Novanglian  architecture.  The  Episcopal  church 
is  a  new  building,  and  is  one  of  the  best  m  Nova  Scotia.  1  AI.  out  is  a 
rural  cemetery  of  40  acres.  Yarmouth  is  built  along  a  line  of  low  rocky 
heights,  over  a  harbor  which  is  nearly  druinod  at  low  tide.  It  receives  a 
goodly  number  of  summer  visitors,  most  of  whom  pass  into  the  Tusket 
Lakes  or  along  the  coast  to  the  E.,  in  search  of  sport. 

Yarmouth  has  been  called  the  most  American  of  all  the  Provincial  towns,  and  is 
endowed  with  the  energy  and  pertinacity  of  New  England.  Though  occupying  a 
remote  situation  on  an  indiflferent  harbor,  with  a  barren  and  incapable  back  coun- 
try, this  town  has  risen  to  opulence  and  distinction  by  the  indomitable  industry  of 
its  citizens.  In  1761  the  shipping  of  the  country  was  confined  to  one  25-ton  fishing- 
boat  ;  in  1869  it  amounted  to  2S4  vess^els,  measuring  93,890  tons,  and  is  now  far  in 
advance  even  of  that  figure.  It  is  claimed  that  Yarmouth,  for  her  population,  ia 
the  largest  ship-owning  port  in  the  world.  In  addition  to  these  great  conmicrcial 
fleets,  the  town  has  estiljlished  a  steamship-line  to  ti^t.  John  and  Boston,  and  is 
building,  almost  alone,  the  Westem-Counties  Railway  to  Annapolis.  It  is  expected 
that  great  benefit  will  accrue  from  the  timber-districts  which  will  be  opened  l>y  this 
new  line  of  t- ivel.  "Yarmouth'?  financial  success  is  due  largely  to  the  practical 
judgment  and  sagacity  of  her  mariners.  She  has  reared  nn  army  of  shipmasters  of 
whom  any  country  might  be  proud,"'  and  it  is  claimed  that  a  large  proportion  of 
the  Cape-Ann  fishing-captains  are  nati^'es  of  this  country.  On  the  adjacent  coast, 
and  within  12  >I.  of  Yarmouth,  are  the  marine  hamlets  of  Jegoggin,  Sandford 
(Cranberry  Head),  Arcadia,  Hebron,  Hartford,  Kelley's  Cove,  Jebogue,  Darling's 
Lake  (Short  Iteach),  and  Dcerfield.  These  settlements  have  over  6,000  inhabititnts 
In  the  aggregate.  The  coast  was  occupied  by  the  French  during  the  17th  century, 
but  was  afterwards  abandoned.  About  the  middle  of  the  last  century  these  de- 
serted shores  were  tsiken  possession  of  by  colonies  of  fishermen  from  Massachusetts 
and  Connecticut,  wlin  wished  to  be  nearer  their  fishing-grounds;  and  the  present 
population  is  descended  from  these  hardy  men  and  the  Loyalists  of  1783.  The  an- 
cient Indian  name  of  Yarmouth  was  Keexpongwitk,  which  means  "  Land's  End." 

The  steamship  IJnrfn  leaves  Yarmouth  for  Doston  every  Satui'duy,  and  for  St. 
Johr.,  M.  B.,  every  Thursday. 


5n 


TUSKET  LAKES. 


Route  23.        115 


ement, 
stage 
[kville) 
I  of  400 

Head. 
|ough  a 

ieaver 


The   TusJcet  Lakes  ami  Archipelago. 

The  township  of  Yarmouth  contains  80  lakes,  and  to  a  bird  flying  overhead  it 
must  sconi  like  a  patchwork  of  blue  and  green,  in  which  the  blue  predominates. 
They  are  nearly  all  connected  with  the  Tusket  River,  and  are  generally  small,  very 
irregular,  and  surrounded  by  young  forests.  They  rarely  attain  the  width  of  1  M., 
and  arc  strung  along  the  course  of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  joined  by  narrow 
aisles  of  water,  and  breaking  off  into  bays  which  the  unguided  voyager  would  often 
ascend  in  mistake  for  the  main  channel  lu  the  lower  lakes,  where  the  tide  flows, 
near  Argyle  IJay,  are  profitable  eel-fisheries.  The  remoter  waters,  towards  the  Blue 
Mts.,  afford  good  trout-fishing. 

Tlie  westerly  line  of  lakes  are  visited  from  Yarmouth  by  riding  5  JI.  out 
on  the  Digby  road  and  then  turning  off  to  Deerfield,  near  the  Salmon-River 
Lakes,  or  passing  over  to  the  settlement  at  Lake  George  (12-14  M.  from 
Yarmouth),  which  is  1^  ^I.  wide  and  3  -4  M.  long,  and  is  the  largest  lake  in 
the  township.    A  little  farther  N.  is  the  Acadian  settlement  at  Cedar  Lake. 

The  best  route  for  the  sportsman  is  to  follow  the  Barrington  telegraph- 
road  10  M.  N.  E.  to  Tusket  (two  inns),  a  large  and  prosperous  shipbuild- 
ing village,  with  three  churches,  near  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the 
Tusket  River.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  picturesque,  its  chief  feature 
benig  the  many  green  islands  off  the  shores;  and  the  river  has  been  famous 
for  fisheries  of  salmon  and  gaspercaux,  now  impaired  by  the  lumber-mills 
above.  From  this  point  a  chain  of  lakes  ascends  to  the  N.  for  20  M.,  in- 
cluding the  central  group  of  the  Tuskets,  and  terminating  at  the  island- 
strewn  L'lke  Wentworth.  The  best  place  is  found  by  following  the  road 
■wiiich  runs  N.  E.  15-18  M.,  between  Vaughan  Lake  and  Butler's  Lake, 
and  by  many  lesser  ponds,  to  the  remote  settlement  of  A'e»n/j<  (small  hotel), 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  central  and  western  groups.  To  the  N.  and  E. 
of  this  point  are  the  trackless  forests  and  savage  ridges  of  the  Blue  Mts., 
and  the  hunter  can  traverse  these  wilds  for  40  M.  to  the  N.  E.  (to  the  Liv- 
erpool Lakes),  or  .'or  30  M.  to  the  S.  E  (to  the  Shelburne  settlements), 
witliout  meeting  any  permanent  evidences  of  civilization. 

The  ancient  Indian  tradition  tells  that  squirrels  were  once  very  numerous  in  this 
region,  and  gn!W  to  an  enormous  size,  endangering  the  lives  of  men.  Hut  tlie  Great 
Sjiirit  once  appeared  to  a  blameless  i)atriarcli  of  the  Micuiacs,  and  offered  to  reward 
his  virtue  by  granting  his  utmost  desire.  After  long  meditation  the  chief  asked  the 
Divine  Visitor  to  bless  the  land  by  taking  the  power  from  the  mighty  bquirrels,  upon 
wliich  the  mandate  was  issued  and  the  dreaded  animals  shrank  to  their  present  in- 
significant size.  And  hence  it  is  known  that  ever  since  that  day  the  squirrel  has 
been  querulous  at  the  sight  of  man. 

This  groat  forest  was  formerly  the  paradise  of  moose-hunters,  but  is  now  closed 
to  that  sport  by  the  recent  I'rovinrial  law  which  forbids  the  killing  of  moose  for  the 
next  three  years.  Poaching  is,  of  course,  qnito  possible,  since  the  forest  cannot  be 
studded  with  game-keepers  ;  but  men  of  culture  and  foresight  will  doubtless  approve 
the  action  of  the  government,  and  will  abstain  from  illegally  pursuing  this  noble 
game,  which  must  be*  onie  extinct  in  a  very  few  years  unless  carefully  protected. 


S.  of  Tusket  village  are  the  beautiful  groups  of  the  Tusket  Isles,  stud- 
ding the  '.valors  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  Abuptic  Harbor.  Like  most  other 
collections  of  islands  on  this  continent,  they  are  popularly  supposed  to  be 


1       *   ■*  ■- 


t     : 


116        Route  U- 


DIGBY  NECK. 


1 

i 


■it ' 


Im 


I 


^1 


365  in  number,  though  they  do  not  claim  to  possess  an  intercalary  islet 
like  that  on  Lake  George  (New  York),  which  appears  only  every  fourth 
year.  The  Tuskets  vary  in  size  from  Morris  Island,  -which  is  3  M.  long, 
down  to  the  smallest  tuft-crowned  rocks,  and  afford  a  great  diversity  of 
scenery.  The  outer  fringe  of  the  archipelago  is  threaded  by  the  Halifax 
and  Yarmouth  steamship  (see  page  125). 

"The  scenery  of  Argyle  Bay  is  extremely  beautiful  of  its  kind;  innumerable 
islantls  and  peninsulas  enclose  the  water  in  every  direction Cottages  and  cul- 
tivated laud  break  the  masses  of  forest,  and  the  masts  of  small  fishing-vessels  peep- 
iii}?  up  from  every  little  cove  attest  the  multiplied  resources  which  Nature  has  pro- 
vided for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants."    (Capt.  Moorson.) 

Among  these  narrow  passes  hundreds  of  Acadians  took  refuge  during  the  persecu- 
tions of  1758  -  GO.  A  British  frigate  was  sent  down  to  hunt  them  out,  but  one  of  her 
boats'  crews  was  destroyed  by  the  fugitives  among  the  islands,  and  they  were  not 
di-slodged.  There  are  now  two  or  three  hamlets  of  Acadians  in  the  region  of  the 
upper  lakes.  

[The  Editor  deprecates  the  meagreness  of  the  foregoing  account  of  the  Tusket 
Lakes.  It  was  too  late  in  the  season,  when  lie  arrived  at  Yarmouth,  to  make  the 
tour  of  this  district,  and  the  landlord  of  the  United  States  Hotel,  the  best  authority 
on  the  sporting  tacilities  of  the  lake-country,  was  then  attending  a  party  of  Boston 
sportsmen  among  the  Blue  Mts.  The  foregoing  statements  about  the  district, 
though  obtained  from  the  best  accessible  sources  of  information,  are  therefore  given 
under  reserve ;  and  it  would  be  best  for  gentlemen  who  wish  to  summer  among  the 
Tuskets  to  make  inquiries  by  letter  of  the  proprietor  of  the  United  States  Hotel, 
Yarmouth,  N.  S.] 


24.  Digby  Neck. 


Tri-weekly  stages  leave  Digby  for  this  remote  corner  of  Nova  Scotia.  Fare  to 
Sandy  Cove,  S  1.50 ;  to  West  Tort,  $  2. 

Distances.  —  I)igby  to  Rossway,  8|^  M. ;  Waterford,12;  Centreville,  15 ;  Lake- 
side, 17 ;  Sandy  Cove,  20 ;  Little  lliver,  25 ;  Petite  Passage,  30 ;  Free  Port ;  West 
Port,  40. 

The  stage  runs  S.  W.  from  Digby,  leaving  the  settlements  of  Marshall- 
town  and  Brighton  on  the  1.,  across  the  Smelt  River.  The  first  hamlet 
reached  is  Rossway,  whence  a  road  crosses  to  Gulliver's  Cove  on  the  Bay 
of  Fundy.  For  over  20  M.  the  road  descends  the  remarkable  peninsula 
of  Digby  Neck,  whose  average  width,  from  bay  to  bay,  is  about  1 J  M. 
On  the  1.  is  the  continuous  range  of  dark  hills  which  marks  the  W.  end 
of  the  North  Mt.  range,  where  it  is  sinking  towards  the  sea.  Among  these 
hills  are  found  fine  specimens  of  agate  and  jasper,  and  the  views  from  their 
summits  (when  not  hidden  by  trees)  reveal  broad  and  brilliant  stretches 
of  blue  water  on  either  side.  Fogs  ai*e,  however,  very  prevalent  here,  and 
are  locally  supposed  to  be  rather  healthy  than  otherwise.  On  the  1.  of  the 
road  are  the  broad  w-aters  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  far  beyond  which  are  the 
low  and  rugged  Blue  Mts. 

Sandy  Cove  (small  inn)  is  the  metropolis  of  Digby  Neck,  and  has  400 
inhabitants  and  two  churches.  Its  people  live  by  farming  and  fishing, 
and  support  a  fortnightly  packet-boat  to  St.  John,  N.  B.  4  M.  S.  E., 
across  St.  Marj''s  Bay,  is  the  port  of  Weymouth  (see  page  112).  Beyond 
Little  River  village  the  stage  crosses  the  ridge,  and  the  passenger  passes 


mun 


i 


^> 


\ 


NOVA-SCOTIA  COAST.        Route  S5.        117 


slct 
irth 


iecu- 

fher 

not 

the 


^tfl 


4R!n 


the  Petite  Passage^  which  separates  Digby  Neck  from  Lonj;  Island.  This 
strait  is  quite  deep  and  1  M.  wide,  and  has  a  red-and-white  flashing  light 
on  its  N.  W.  point  (Boar's  Head).  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  passage 
is  a  village  of  390  inhabitants  (mostly  fishermen),  and  the  stage  now  runs 
down  Long  Island  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  side.  If  there  is  no  fog  the  view 
across  the  bay  is  pleasing,  and  is  usually  enlivened  by  the  sails  of  passing 
vessels.  Long  Island  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  2  M.  wide,  and  its  village 
of  Free  Port  has  700  inhabitants. 

Near  the  end  of  Long  Island  another  ferry-boat  is  taken,  and  the  trav- 
eller crosses  the  Grand  Passage  to  West  Port  {Denton's  Hotel),  a  village 
of  600  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  fishermen,  shipbuilders,  or  sea- 
captains.  This  town  is  on  Brier  Island,  the  S.  E.  portal  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  and  is  5  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide.  On  its  E.  side  are  two  fixed  white 
lights,  and  on  the  W.  are  a  fog-whistle  and  a  powerful  white  light  visible 
for  15  M. 

25.  Hali&z  to  YarmoutL— The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova 

Scotia. 

The  steamers  M.  A.  Starr  and  Edgar  Stuart,  of  Fishwick's  Express 
Line,  ply  along  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia.  One  of  them  leaves  Halifax  for 
Yarmouth  on  Tuesday,  at  6  A.  m.  ;  leaving  Yarmouth  on  Thursday,  at 
9  A.  M.  (There  is  also  a  possibility  that  a  vessel  of  this  line  will  ply  dur- 
ing the  present  summer  between  Halifax,  Cape  Canso,  Guysborough, 
Port  Hastings,  Port  Mulgrave,  and  Antigonish.) 

Fares. — Halifax  to  Lunenburg,  $2;  to  Liverpool,  $3.50;  to  Shelbume,  S  4-50 ; 
to  Yarmouth, ^6.  Lunenburg  to  Liverpool,  $3;  to  Shelbume,  $3-50;  to  Yar- 
mouth, $4.50.  Liverpool  to  Shelbume,  $2;  to  Yarmouth,  $3.50.  Shelbume  to 
Yarmouth,  $2.50.     Berths  arc  included  in  these  price?,  but  the  meals  are  extra. 

"The  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  from  Cape  Canso  to  Cape  Sable,  is  pierced 
with  innumerable  small  bays,  harbors,  and  rivers.  The  shores  are  lined  with  rocks 
and  thousands  of  islands ;  and  although  no  part  of  the  country  can  properly  be  con- 
sidered mountainous,  and  there  are  but  few  steep  high  cliffs,  yet  the  aspect  of  the 
whole,  if  not  romantically  sublime,  is  exceedingly  picturesque ;  and  the  scenery,  in 
many  places,  is  richly  beautiful..  The  landscape  which  the  head  of  Mahone  Kay,  in 
particular,  presents  can  scarcely  be  surpassed."     (M'Gregor's  British  Amerirn.) 

'•  The  jagged  outline  of  this  coast,  as  seen  upon  the  map,  reminds  us  of  the  equally 
indented  Atlantic  shores  of  Scandinavia ;  and  the  character  of  the  coast  as  he  sails 
along  it —  the  rocky  surface,  the  scanty  herbage,  and  the  endless  pine  forests  —  re- 
call to  the  traveller  the  ap]warance  and  natural  productions  of  the  same  European 
country."    (Peop.  Johnston.) 

The  steamer  passes  down  Halifax  Harbor  (see  page  93),  and  gains  the 
open  sea  beyond  Chebucto  Head  and  the  lighthouse  on  Samhro  Island. 
She  usually  makes  a  good  ofling  before  turning  down  the  coast,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  far-reaching  and  dangerous  Sambro  Ledges.  W.  of  the  open 
light  of  Pennant  Bay  is  Mars  Head,  on  whose  fatal  rocks  the  ocean  steam- 
ship Atlantic  was  wrecked. 


]18       Rente  25. 


LUNENBURG. 


■III 


■'i 


m 


This  line  of  coast  has  been  famous  for  its  marine  disasters.  In  1779  the  Britif^h 
var-vesfcla  AV//i  and  Helena  vere  wrecked  near  Sanibro,  and  170  men  wore  dro>¥nid. 
Mars  Head  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  British  line-of-battle  ship  Marx, 
70  guns,  was  wrcclced  upon  its  blacli  ledges.  In  1779  the  American  war-vessel  Viper, 
22,  attacked  II.  M.  S.  Resolution,  just  off  Sambro,  and  captured  her  after  a  long  and 
desperate  battle,  in  which  both  ships  were  badly  cut  to  pieces.  Caiie  Sambro  was 
named  by  tlse  mariners  of  St.  Malo  early  in  the  17th  century ;  and  it  is  thought  that 
the  i)ref-ent  form  of  the  name  is  a  corruption  of  SC.  Cendre,  the  original  designation. 
The  ancient  Latin  book  called  the  Nnvus  Orbis  (published  by  Elzevir;  Amsterdam, 
IC.3.3)  says  that  the  islands  between  Cape  Sambro  (SeMwibre)  and  Mahonc  Bay  were 
called  the  ilartyrs'  Isles,  on  account  of  the  Frenchmen  who  had  there  been  uias- 
eacred  by  the  heathen  Indians. 

Royotifl  Cape  Prospect  the  deep  Indentations  of  St.  Margaret's  Bay  and 
Mahono  Bay  make  in  on  tlie  N.,  and 

"  breezy  Aspotofton 
Lifts  high  its  summit  blue." 

The  roughest  water  of  the  voyage  is  usually  found  while  crossing  the 
openings  of  these  bays.  The  course  is  hiid  for  Cross  Island,  where  tlicro 
are  two  lights,  one  of  which  is  visible  for  14  M.  Passing  close  in  by  this 
island,  the  steamer  enters  that  prett}''  bay  which  was  formerly  knoAvn  to 
the  Indians  as  Mahtgnsh,  or  "  Milky,"  on  account  of  the  whiteness  of  its 
stormy  surf.  At  the  head  of  this  bay  the  white  and  compact  town  of 
Lunenburg  is  seen  between  two  round  green  hills.  The  steamer  passes 
around  the  outermost  of  these,  and  enters  the  snug  little  harbor. 

"  The  town  of  Lunenburg  is  situated  at  the  innermost  extremity  of  a  peninsula, 
and  to  a  military  traveller  presents  a  more  formidable  asix-ct  than  any  other  in  Nova 
Scotia,  the  upper  houses  being  placed  on  the  crests  of  steep  glacis  slopes,  so  as  to 
bear  upon  all  approaches."    (Capt.  Mooeson.) 

Lunenburg  {Kiny's  Hotel)  is  a  thriving  little  seaport,  situated  on  a  se- 
cure and  spacious  har})or,  and  enjoying  a  lucrative  West-India  trade. 
Together  with  its  immediate  environs,  it  has  3,231  inhabitants,  of  whom 
over  half  are  in  the  port  itscl!'.  The  German  character  of  the  citizens  is 
still  retained,  though  not  so  covnpletely  as  in  their  rural  settlements;  and 
the  principal  churches  are  Lutheran.  The  public  buikiings  of  Lunenburg 
County  are  located  here.  A  large  trade  in  lumber  and  fi.sh  is  carried  on,  iu 
addition  to  the  southern  exports.  Thero  are  numerous  farming  communi- 
ties of  Germanic  origin  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  shore-roads  exhibit  al- 
tractive  phases  of  marine  scenery.  7  M.  distant  is  the  beautifully  situated 
village  of  Mahone  Bay  (see  Route  26) ;  4  M.  distant  are  the  remarkable  sea- 
side ledges  called  the  Blue  Rocks;  to  the  S.  E.  is  the  rural  settlement  of 
Lunenburg  Peninsula,  off  which  are  the  sea-girt  farms  of  Heckman's 
Island  ;  .ind  12  M.  distant  is  the  gold  district  of  The  Ocens. 

This  site  was  anciently  occupied  by  the  Indian  village  of  Malagash.  Tn  1745  the 
British  government  issued  a  proclamation  inviting  German  Protestants  to  emigrate 
to  Nova  Scotia  and  take  up  its  unoccupied  lands  Tn  1753,  200  families  of  Germans 
and  Swiss  settleil  nt  Lunenburg,  and  were  provided  with  farming  implements  and 
three  years'  provisions  by  the  government.  They  fortified  their  new  domains  as 
well  as  possible,  but  many  of  the  people  were  killed  by  Indians  lurking  in  the  woods. 
The  settlement  was  thus  held  in  cheek  until  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  when  the 
Indians  ceased  hostilities.    In  1777  the  town  was  attacked  by  two  American  jrivu- 


tf^i 


I 


piled. 

lars, 

Jfiper, 

■  niid 

i  was 

thnt 

|tion. 

Inm, 

I  were 

luias- 

and 


IRONBOUND  ISLAND. 


Route  25. 


119 


tpcrs,  who  landed  detachments  of  armed  men  and  occupied  the  principal  buildings. 
After  plundering  the  pluce  and  securing  a  valuable  booty,  these  unwelcome  visitors 
sailed  away  rejoicing,  leaving  Lunenburg  to  put  on  the  robes  of  war  and  anxiously 
yearn  for  iinother  naval  attack,  for  whose  reception  spirited  provisions  were  made. ' 
Among  tlie  people  throughout  this  county  German  customs  are  still  preserved,  as 
at  weddings  and  funerals  ;  the  German  language  is  spoken  ;  and  sermons  are  deliv< 
ered  oftentimes  in  the  same  tongue.  The  cows  are  mude  to  do  service  in  ploiighing, 
and  the  farming  implements  are  of  a  primitive  pattern.  A  large  portion  of  the  out- 
door work  in  the  fields  is  done  by  the  women,  who  are  generally  strong  and  muscular. 

The  steamer  leaves  Lunenburg  Harbor,  passes  Battery  Point  and  its 
lighthouse  on  the  1.,  and  (Jesccnds  between  the  knob-like  hills  of  the  outer 
harbor.  On  the  r.  are  the  shores  of  the  remarkable  peninsula  of  The 
Ovens  (distant  from  Lunenburg,  by  road,  10  - 12  M.).  The  low  cliffs  along 
this  shore  ai*e  pierced  by  numerous  caverns,  three  of  which  are  70  ft.  wide 
at  their  mouths  and  over  200  ft.  deep.  The  sea  daslies  into  these  dark 
recesses  during  a  heavy  swell  with  an  amazing  roar,  broken  by  deep 
booming  reverberations.  Certain  fc.itures  in  the  formation  of  these  caves 
have  led  to  the  supposition  that  they  were  made  by  human  labor,  though 
the  theorists  do  not  state  the  probable  ol)jcct  for  which  they  were  exca- 
vated. \n  1861  gold  was  discovered  on  tlie  Ovens  peninsula,  and  2,000 
ounces  were  obtained  during  tliat  autumn,  since  which  the  mining  fever 
has  subsided,  and  no  earnest  work  has  been  done  here.  The  precious  metal 
was  obtained  chiefly  by  washing,  and  but  little  was  effected  in  the  way 
of  quartz-crushing. 

Beyond  Ovens  Head  the  pretty  circular  indentation  of  Rose  Bay  ia  seen 
on  the  r.,  on  whose  shores  is  a  settlement  of  250  German  farmers.  The 
steamer  now  passes  between  Cross  Island  (1.)  and  Rose  Head,  which  are 
about  2  M.  apart,  and  enters  the  Atlantic.  When  a  sufficient  ofling  has 
been  made,  the  course  is  laid  S.  W.  <^  W.  for  8^  M.  Point  Enragd  is  soon 
passed,  and  then  the  vessel  approaches  ^Ironbound  Island.  This  re- 
markable rock  is  about  ^  M.  long,  and  rises  from  the  sea  on  all  sides  in 
smooth  curves  of  dark  and  iron-like  rock,  on  which  the  mighty  surges 
of  the  Atlantic  are  broken  into  great  sheets  of  white  and  hissing  foam. 
Upon  this  dangerous  outpost  of  Nova  Scotia  there  is  a  revolving  light, 
which  is  visible  for  13  M.  Beyond  Irontound,  on  the  r.,  is  seen  the  deep 
estuary  of  the  Lahave  River,  which  is  navigable  to  Bridgewater,  a  distance 
of  13  M.,  passing  for  12  M.  through  the  hamlets  of  New  Dublin,  and  thence 
through  a  valley  between  high  and  knob-like  hills. 

At  Fort  La  Ileve  in  1636-7,  died  Isaac  de  Razilly,  "  Knight  Commander  of  the 
Order  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Lieutenant-General  of  Acatlio,  and  Captain  of  the 
West."  lie  was  a  relative  of  Cardinal  Richelieu,  and  had  fought  in  the  campaigns 
of  La  RochcUe  and  the  coast  of  Morocco.  In  1642  D'Aulnay  purchased  these  do- 
mains from  Claude  de  Razilly,  but  soon  evacuated  the  place,  removing  the  people  to 
Port  Royal.  Ry  1654  the  colony  had  recovered  it.self,  having  *'  undoubtedly  tho 
best  port  and  the  best  soil  in  the  whole  country."  It  was  then  attacked  by  tho 
Sieur  le  Borgne,  who  burned  all  its  houses  and  tlie  chapel.  At  a  later  day  the  new 
Fort  I^  IIC'vc  was  attacked  by  a  strong  force  of  New-England  troops,  who  were 
beaten  off  several  times  with  tlie  loss  of  some  of  their  best  men.  But  the  brave 
Frenclnnen  were  finally  forced  to  surrender,  and  the  place  was  reduced  to  ruins. 
In  1705  the  settlement  was  again  destroyed  by  Boston  privateers. 


120       Route  25. 


LIVERPOOL. 


!■  : 


f  •  s 


!'! 


in 


'i-  ■ 


When  off  Capo  Lahave  the  steamer  takes  a  coarse  W.  by  S.,  which  is 
followed  for  15§  M.  The  fishing  hamlet  of  Broad  Cove  is  on  the  shore 
S.  W.  of  Cape  Lahave;  and  when  about  9  M.  from  the  cape,  the  entrance 
of  Port  Medway  is  seen.  This  harbor  is  4  M.  long  and  1^  M.  wide,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Port  Medway  and  Pedley  Rivers.  Port  Med- 
way (Dunphy's  Hotel)  is  on  its  W.  shore,  and  has  600  inhabitants,  who 
are  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  lumbering. 

The  steamer  soon  rounds  the  revolving  red  light  (visible  16  M.)  on  Cof- 
fin's Island,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  Liverpool  Bay.  The  shores  are 
well  inhabited,  with  the  settlement  of  Moose  Harbor  on  the  1.,  and  Brook- 
lyn (or  Herring  Cove)  on  tlie  r.  The  lighthouse  on  Fort  Point  is  rounded 
and  the  vessel  enters  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  Avith  a  line  of 
wharves  on  the  1.,  and  the  bridge  in  advance. 

Liverpool  (  Village  Green  Hotel,  a  comfortable  summer-house ;  and  two 
other  inns)  is  a  flourishing  seaport  with  3,102  inhabitants,  5  churches,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  a  bank.  Its  principal  industries  are  lumbering,  fish- 
ing, and  shipbuilding.  The  town  occupies  the  rocky  shore  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Liverpool  River,  and  its  streets  are  adorned  with  numerous  large 
shade  trees.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place,  either  on  account 
of  its  own  attractions,  or  to  seek  the  trout  on  the  adjacent  streams  and 
lakes  (see  Route  27).  There  are  pleasant  drives  also  on  the  Mill- Village 
Road,  and  around  the  shores  of  the  bay. 

Liverpool  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Indian  domain  of  Ogumkegfok,  made 
classic  in  the  traditions  of  the  Micmacs  by  the  celebrated  encounter  which  took 
place  here  between  the  divine  Glooscap  (see  page  106)  and  the  great  sorceress  of  the 
Atlantic  coast.  The  struggle  of  craft  and  malevolence  against  superior  power  arc 
quaintly  narrated,  though  taking  forms  not  pleasing  to  refined  minds,  and  the  con- 
test end.s  in  the  defeat  of  the  hag  of  Ogumkegeo/e,  who  is  rent  in  pieces  by  the 
hunting-dogs  of  Glooscap. 

In  May,  1604,  the  harbor  of  Liverpool  was  entered  by  Pierre  du  Guast,  "  Sieur  do 
Monts  of  Samtonge,  Gentleman  in  Ordinary  of  the  Chamber,  and  Governor  of  Pons," 
who  had  Eecut^d  a  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  between  40°  and  54°  N.  latitude.  He 
found  a  ship  here  trading  without  authority,  and  confi.<;cated  her,  naming  the  har- 
bor Port  Rossignol,  after  her  captain,  "  as  though  M.  de  Mont,<<  had  wished  to  make 
■ome  compensation  to  the  man  for  the  loss  he  inflicted  on  him,  by  immortalizing 
his  name."  This  designation  did  not  hold  to  the  harbor,  but  has  been  transferred 
to  the  large  and  beautiful  lake  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Liverpool  River. 

About  1634  a  shore-fishery  was  established  here  by  M.  Denys  and  Gov.  Razilly. 
This  enterpri.se  was  for  a  long  time  successful,  but  was  finally  crippled  by  the  cap- 
ture of  its  heavily  laden  freigh ting-ship  by  the  Portuguese.  Soon  afterward  Denys 
was  forced  to  leave  Port  Rossignol  on  account  of  the  machinations  of  D'Aulnay 
Charnisay,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up.  IJy  the  year  1760  a  thriving  village 
Btood  on  this  site,  and  in  the  War  of  1812  many  active  privateers  were  fitted  out  here. 
In  1832  the  port  owned  25,000  tons  of  shipping. 

On  leaving  Liverpool  Bay  the  steamer  rounds  Western  Head  and  runs 
S.  W.  i  S.  14  M.  On  the  r.  is  the  deep  embayment  of  Port  Mouton, 
partly  sheltered  by  Mouton  Island,  and  lighted  by  a  fixed  red  light  on 
Spectacle  Island.  At  its  head  is  the  farming  and  fishing  settlement  of 
Port  Mouton,  with  350  inhabitants.  This  inlet  was  visited  by  the  ex- 
ploring ship  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in  1604,  and  received  the  name  which 


+ 


tmn 


ch  is 
ihoro 
'ance 
and 
Med- 
who 


T 


SHELBURNE. 


Route  25.        121 


it  still  bears  because  a  sheep  here  leaped  from  the  deck  into  the  bay  and 
was  drowned.  The  shores  were  settled  in  1783  by  the  disbanded  veterans 
of  Tarleton's  Legion,  who  had  done  such  valiant  service  in  the  Carolinas. 

In  July,  1622,  Sir  William  Alexander's  pioneer-ship  entered  Port  Mouton,  "  and 
discovered  three  very  pleasant  harbors  and  went  aj»liore  in  one  of  them,  which,  after 
the  ship's  name,  they  called  Luke's  Bay,  whore  they  found,  a  great  way  up,  a  very 
pleasant  river,  being  three  fathoms  deep  at  the  entry  thereof,  and  on  every  side  of 
the  same  they  did  see  very  delicate  meadows,  having  Roses  white  and  red  growing 
thereon,  with  a  kind  of  white  Lily,  which  had  a  dainty  smell."  These  shores,  which 
were  hardly  so  fair  as  the  old  mariner  painted  them,  were  soon  occupied  by  a  French 
post,  after  whose  destruction  they  remained  in  solitude  for  over  a  century. 

On  Little  Hope  Island  is  a  revolving  red  light,  beyond  which  the  steamer 
runs  W.  S.  W.  15  M. ;  then  Port  Joli  opens  to  the  N.  W.,  on  which  is  a 
fishing-village  of  200  inhabitants.  About  3  ^I.  beyond  is  Port  Herbert,  a 
deep  and  narrow  estuary  with  another  maritime  hamlet.  Farther  W.  is 
the  mouth  of  Sable  River  ;  but  the  steamer  holds  a  course  too  far  out  to 
distinguish  much  of  these  low  shores.  3i  ^L  N.  is  Ram  Island,  W.  of 
which  are  the  ledges  off  Ragged  Island  Harbor,  at  whose  head  is  a  village 
of  350  inhabitants.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor  is  Lockers  Island  (two 
inns),  a  prosperous  little  port  of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  West-India 
trade  and  the  Bank  fisheries  are  carried  on.  During  the  season  of  1874 
70,000  quintals  of  fish  (valued  at  $  250,000)  were  exported  from  this  point. 
On  Carter's  Island  is  a  fixed  red  light,  and  the  sea-swept  ledge  of  Gull 
Rock  lies  outside  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  powerful  white  light.  Beyond 
Western  Head  the  steamer  runs  across  the  wide  estuaries  of  Green  Harbor 
and  the  Jordan  River,  on  whose  shores  are  four  maritime  hamlets.  The 
course  is  changed  to  N.  W.  i  N.,  and  Bony's  and  Government  Points  are 
passed  on  the  r.  On  the  1.  Cape  Roseway  is  approached,  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights,  visible  for  10  and  18  M.,  standing  in  a  black-and- 
white  striped  tower.  Passing  between  Surf  Point  and  Sand  Point  the  ves- 
sel turns  N.  by  E.,  leaving  Birchtown  Bay  on  the  1.,  and  runs  up  to  Shel- 
burne.  The  last  few  miles  are  traversed  between  the  picturesque  shores 
of  a  bay  which  an  enthusiastic  mariner  has  called  "  the  best  in  the  world, 
except  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  in  Australia." 

Shelburne  {Port  Roseicay  House ;  Enr/Ksh  and  American  Hotel)  is  the  cap- 
ital of  Slielburne  County,  and  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  and  5  churches. 
It  is  engaged  chiefly  in  fishing  and  shipbuilding,  and  excels  in  the  latter 
branch  of  business.  The  harbor  is  9  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  and  has 
5-7  fathoms  of  water,  without  any  shoals  or  flats.  It  is  completely  land- 
locked, but  can  never  attain  any  commercial  importance,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  it  is  frozen  solid  during  the  winter,  there  being  no  river  currents 
or  strong  tides  to  agitate  the  water.  There  are  granite-ledges  near  the 
village,  and  the  Roseway  River  empties  into  the  bay  1  M.  distant.  Birch- 
town  is  5  M.  from  Shelburne,  and  is  at  the  head  of  a  branch  of  the  bay.  It 
is  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  negro  slaves  brought  from  Mary- 
land and  Virginia  by  the  Loyalist  refugees,  in  1783.    The  country  back 

a 


i.lu 


122        Route  25. 


PORT  LATOUR. 


.«.  ' 


of  Slielbnrnc  is  unimproved,  and  the  roads  pooh  tcnnimito  in  tlie  grent  for- 
ests nbout  the  Blue  Mts.  Stapes  run  from  this  town  E.  and  W.  Fares, 
Shelburne  to  Liverpool,  $2.50;  to  Barrington,  $1.50;  to  Yarmouth,  $4. 

"  The  town  of  Shelburne  is  fsituated  at  the  N.  extremity  of  a  beautiful  inlet,  10  M, 
in  longtli  and  2-8  M  in  breadth,  in  whicli  tlie  wliole  royal  navy  of  Great  Britain 
might  lie  roinpletoly  landloclced."  In  1783  largo  iiumhurs  of  American  Loyalists 
ecttled  iierc,  hoping  to  cre<'t  a  great  city  on  this  unrivalled  harbor.  They  brought 
their  servants  and  equijinges,  and  established  a  cultured  metropolitan  society.  Shel- 
liurnc  Foon  ran  ahead  of  Halifax,  and  measures  were  talicn  to  transfer  the  seat  of 
povernnient  here.  Within  one  year  the  primeval  forest  was  replaced  by  a  city  of 
12,0<)0  inhabitants  (of  wlioni  1,200  were  negroes).  The  obscure  hamlet  which  had 
been  founded  liero  (under  the  name  of  New  .Icrusalem)  in  17G4  was  replaced  by  a 
metropolis  ;  ond  Gov.  Parr  soon  entered  the  bay  on  the  frigate  La  Sophie,  amid  the 
roaring  of  saluting  batteries,  and  named  the  new  city  Shelburne.  Hut  the  place 
had  no  rural  back-country  to  supply  and  bo  enriched  by  ;  and  the  colonists,  mostly 
patricians  from  the  Atlantic  cities,  could  not  and  would  not  engage  in  the  fisheries. 
Tlio  money  which  they  had  brouglit  from  their  old  homes  was  at  last  exhausted,  and 
then  "  Shelburne  dwindled  into  insignificance  almost  as  rapidly  as  it  had  risen  to 
notoriety."  Many  of  its  people  returned  contritely  to  the  United  States;  and  the 
population  here  soon  sank  to  400.  "  It  is  only  tlic  sight  of  a  few  large  storehou.«es, 
with  decayed  timbers  and  window-frames,  standing  near  the  wharves,  that  will  leod 
lilm  to  conclude  that  tlio,«c  wharves  must  once  have  teemed  with  sliipmasters  and 
sailors.  The  streets  of  the  town  arc  changed  into  avenues  bounded  b\  stone  fences 
on  either  side,  in  which  ptrass  plants  contest  the  palm  of  supremacy  with  stones." 
Within  two  years  over  §  2,500,000  were  sunk  in  the  founding  of  Shelburne. 

The  steamer  leave.s  Shelburne  by  the  same  course  on  which  she  entered, 
with  the  stunted  forests  of  ^IcNutt's  Island  on  the  r.  Rounding  Cape 
Jioseway  within  1  M.  of  the  lights,  she  runs  down  by  Gray's  Island,  pass- 
ing Round  Bay  and  the  hamlet  of  Black  Point,  on  the  bold  headland  of 
the  same  name.  Negro  Island  is  then  seen  on  the  r.,  and  is  occupied  by 
a  population  of  fishermen;  while  its  N.  E.  point  has  a  powerful  red-and- 
white  flashing  light.  Inside  of  this  island  is  the  broad  e.stuary  of  the  Clj'de 
River,  and  near  by  is  the  large  and  picturesque  fishing-village  of  Cape 
Negro.  Cape  Negro  was  so  named  by  Champlain,  in  1G04,  "  on  account 
of  a  rock  which  at  a  distance  resembles  one."  The  steamer  then  passes 
the  Salvage  Rocks,  o(T  Blanche  Island  (Point  Jefl'reys),  and  opens  the 
broad  bay  of  Port  Latour  on  the  N.  W.  This  haven  was  the  scene  of 
stirring  events  during  the  17th  century,  and  the  remains  of  the  fort  of 
Claude  do  la  Tour  are  still  visible  here. 

"  Claude  Turgis  de  St.  Estienne,  Sleur  de  la  Tour,  of  the  province  of  Champagne, 
quitted  Paris,  taking  with  him  his  son  Charles  Amador,  then  14  years  old,  to  settle 
in  Acadia,  near  Poutrincourt,  who  was  then  engaged  in  founding  Port  Royal."  17 
years  afterwards,  Charles  succeeded  to  the  government  on  the  death  of  liiencourt, 
Poutrincourt-8  son,  and  for  4  years  held  Fort  St.  Louis,  in  the  present  Port  Latour. 
Meantime  Claude  had  been  captured  by  the  English  and  carried  to  London,  where 
he  was  knighted,  and  then  married  one  of  the  Queen's  maids-of-honor.  Peing  a 
Huguenot,  he  was  the  more  easily  seduced  from  his  allegiance  to  France,  and  ho 
offered  to  the  King  to  procure  the  surrender  of  Fort  St.  Louis  (the  only  French  post 
then  held  in  Acadia)  to  the  English  So  he  sailed  to  Nova  Scotia  with  two  frigates, 
and  asked  his  son  to  yield  up  the  stronghold,  offering  him  high  honors  at  London 
and  the  supreme  command  in  Acadia,  on  behalf  of  th(>  Englisli  power.  "  Claude  at 
once  told  his  father  that  he  was  mistaken  in  supposing  him  capable  of  giving  up  t'le 
place  to  the  enemies  of  the  state.  That  he  would  preserve  it  for  the  king  his  maf-fer 
while  he  had  a  breath  of  Ufe.    That  he  esteemed  highly  the  dijjnities  offered  him  by 


I 


CAPE  SAELE. 


Route  25. 


123 


^\ 


the  English  king,  but  should  not  buy  thorn  it  the  price  of  treaflon.  That  the  prince 
he  served  was  able  to  requite  him  ;  and  if  not,  that  fidelity  was  its  own  best  reroni- 
peii!<((."  The  father  employed  affection 'to  iiitcrces.sion  and  bold  menace,  alike  in 
Viiin ;  and  the  English  naviil  commander  then  landed  his  forces,  but  was  neverely 
repulsed  from  tlie  fort,  and  finally  gave  up  the  siege.  A  traitor  to  France  and  a 
cause  of  disaster  to  England,  the  unfortunate  La  'J'our  dared  not  return  to  Europ<', 
but  advised  his  patrician  wife  to  go  back  with  the  tieet,  since  naught  now  remained 
for  liim  but  penury  and  misery.  The  noble  lady  replied,  "  that  she  had  not  married 
him  to  abandon  him.  That  wherever  he  should  take  her,  and  in  whatever  condi- 
tion he  might  bo  ))laced,  slio  would  always  bo  his  faitliful  companion,  and  that  all 
her  liappincss  would  consist  in  softening  liis  grief."  He  then  threw  himself  on  the 
clemency  of  his  son,  who  tempered  filial  affection  witli  milifciry  vigilance,  and  wel- 
comed the  elder  La  Tour,  with  his  family,  servants,  and  equipage,  giving  him  a  hou.se 
and  liberal  subsistence,  but  making  and  enforcing  the  condition  that  neither  him.self 
nor  his  wife  should  ever  enter  Fort  St.  Louis.  There  they  lived  in  happiness  and 
comfort  for  many  years.    (See  also  page  19.) 

The  hamlet  of  Port  I/vtour  is  seen  on  the  inner  shore,  and  tho 
vessel  rounds  tho  lonp  low  promontory  of  Baccaro  Pointy  on  which  is  a 
small  village  and  a  fixed  red  light  (visible  12  M.).  On  the  W.  is  Cape 
Sable  Island,  which  is  7  M.  long  an^  2-3  M.  wide,  and  has  a  population 
of  l,G3fi,  with  tlirco  (  hurchcs.  Its  first  settlers  were  the  French  Acadians, 
who  luid  pro.'sperous  little  hamlets  on  the  shores.  In  August,  1758,  400 
soldiers  of  the  35th  British  Uegiment  landed  here  and  destroyed  the  settle- 
ments, and  carried  priest  and  people  away  to  Halifax.  About  1784  tlie 
island  was  occupied  by  Loyalists  from  the  New-England  coasts,  whoso  de- 
scendants are  daring  and  adventurous  mariners.  Cape  Sable  is  on  an 
outer  islet  at  tlie  extreme  S.  point  of  the  island  and  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is 
8-9  M.  S.  W.  of  Baccaro  Point.  , 

It  is  supposed  that  Cape  Sable  and  the  adjacent  shores  were  the  ancient  lands  of 
the  Nor.«c  di  ovcrers,  "  flat,  and  covered  with  wood,  and  where  white  sands  were 
far  around  win  ic  they  wc.t,  and  the  shore  was  low."  In  the  year  994  tliis  point  was 
"isitcd  by  Leif,  the  son  of  Erie  tho  Red,  of  Brattahlid,  in  Greenland.  IIo  anchored 
his  ship  off  shore  and  Imdeil  in  a  boat;  and  when  he  returned  on  board  he  said: 
"  This  land  shall  be  named  after  its  qualities,  and  called  Markl.vxd  "  (woodland). 
Thence  he  sailed  southward,  and  discovered  Vinland  the  Good,  on  the  S.  shores  of 
Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  where  for  many  years  the  bold  Norsemen  main- 
tained colonies.  In  tlie  year  1007  .Markland  was  again  visited  by  Thorfinn  Ivarlsefne, 
who,  with  ItJO  men,  was  sailing  south  to  A'inland.  These  events  are  narrated  in  tlie 
ancient  Icelandic  epics  of  tho  Saga  of  Eric  tho  Red  and  the  Saga  of  Thorfinn  KarLsefuo. 

In  1.347  a  ship  arrived  at  Iceland  from  the  shores  of  .Slarkland,  which  is  de- 
scribed by  the  Annalos  .'^kallioltini  and  the  Codex  Flatcyensis  as  having  been 
smaller  than  any  Icelandic  consting-vcssel.  In  such  tiny  craft  did  the  fearless 
Norsemen  visit  these  iron-bound  shores. 

In  tlie  autumn  of  1750  there  was  a  sharp  naval  action  off  tho  cape  between 
II.  M.  S.  Albnni/  and  the  Frencli  war-vessel  St.  Francis.  The  engagement  lasted 
four  bours,  and  ended  in  the  surrender  of  the  St.  Francis,  whose  convoy,  however, 
escaped  and  reached  its  destination. 

In  July,  1812,  tlic  Salem  privateer  Polly  was  cruising  off  Cape  Sable,  when  she 
sighted  two  strange  sail,  and  bore  down  on  them,  supposing  them  to  be  merchant- 
men ;  but  one  wa.s  a  Dritish  sloop-of-war,  which  oixiied  a  hot  fire  upon  the  incavi- 
tious  Polly,  and  a  sliarp  chase  ensued.  A  calm  commenced,  during  which  the  frig- 
ate's boats  and  launch  attacke  '  the  privateer,  but  were  i-epulsed  by  heavy  dis- 
charges of  musketry  and  langra,L?e.  The  Polly  made  her  escape,  anci  during  the 
chase  and  action  the  convoy  of  the  frigate  bad  been  captured  by  the  pn  ateer  Mad- 
ison,  and  wa.s  sent  into  Salem. 

In  the  same  vi<  inity  (Aug.  1,  1K12)  tho  Rhode-Island  privateer  Yankee  captured 
the  British  ship  Royal  B.ninty,  10  guns,  after  a  battle  of  one  hour"=  duration.    The 


Ifi.' 


jrl 


m 


H 


f  t[ 


I 


IH 


H  ! 


i!  '  I 


124        Route  25. 


BARRINGTON. 


prlvatcer'H  broad.'»l<leR  were  rtMlvorod  vr\th  pfrr>nt  pwffslon,  nnd  150  of  her  «hofc  stnirk 
the  enemy,  while  the  fln'  of  the  Koya/  Bounty,  though  rapid  nnd  licavy,  was  nearly 
Ineffwtive.  The  shattered  Briton  beoame  unmanageable,  and  while  in  that  condi- 
tion wa«  raked  from  utem  to  stern  by  the  Ynnker'x  batteries. 

Cape  Sable  hns  lonf?  been  dreaded  by  M>anien ,  and  has  eauf(ht  up  and  destroyed 
many  vessels.  Jt  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  prongs  of  that  iron-bound  Provlnco 
for  which  Edmund  Burke  could  lind  no  bettor  words  than  "  that  hard-visaRcd,  ill- 
favored  brat  "  I'robably  the  most  destructive  wreck  on  tbia  Bhoro  was  that  of  tho 
ocean  steamship  Hungarian. 

Tho  steamer  is  now  running  to  tho  N.  W.  np  tho  Bnrrinfiton  Pos- 
tage, between  Capo  Siibiv.  Island  and  tho  populous  Baccaro  peninsula.  In 
about  12  M.  it  lies  to  off  Barrington,  a  thriving  maritime  village  of  1,000 
inhabitaji*',  most  of  whom  arc  engaged  in  tho  fisheries  and  tho  coasting 
trade.  Clyde  River  is  about  9  M.  N.  E.,  and  is  a  lumbering  district  origi- 
nally settled  ly  Welshmen.  10-12  M.  N.  are  tlio  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  Bnrringi  'n  was  settk;d  at  an  early  date  by  tho  French, 
but  thev  were  crowded  off  in  1703  by  tlie  nn  ■.  al  of  160  families  from  Capo 
Cod,  wiio  brought  111*'-  ^  ■  their  household  efl^'ccts  on  their  own  vessels. 
A^er  tho  Rcvoluiion,  a  colony  of  Loyalists  from  Nantucket  settled  hero 
with  thpir  whilom  rieigbbo)"a. 

Tho  r  urso  is  noiv  to  the  ::•>.  W.,  through  a  narrow  and  tide-swept  pas- 
sage between  Clement  Point  and  N.  E.  Point,  and  thence  or.t  through  tho 
Barrington  West  Passage,  passing  the  Baptist  church  near  Clarke's  Har- 
bor, and  emerging  on  the  open  sea  between  Bear  Point  and  Newell  Head. 
(It  is  to  be  noted  that,  under  certain  adverse  conditions  of  wind  and  tide, 
tho  steamer,  does  not  call  at  Barring^-on,  but  rounds  Capo  Sablo  on  tho 
outside.)  On  tho  1.  is  Green  Island,  hiding  Capo  Sablo,  and  tho  inlet  of 
Shag  Harbor  is  seen  on  tho  r.  On  Bon  Portage  Island  (whoso  original 
French  name  was  Bon  Potage)  Is  a  n^w  lighthouse,  to  warn  vessels  from 
the  rugged  shores  on  which  *ho  Viceroy  w-^.s  wrecke(l  The  course  soon 
changes  toward  the  N.  W.,  and  Seal  Xalii,  I'l,  "tue  elbow  of  tho  Bay  of 
Fundy,"  is  seen  on  the  1.,  far  out  at  sea,  with  the  tower  of  its  lighthouso 
(flxed  whit ,  light,  visible  18  M.,  and  fog-whistle)  looming  above  its  low 
shores.  On  this  islond  tho  ocean-ttoamship  Columbia  was  lost.  Tho 
Blonde  Rock  is  3^  M.  S.  by  W.  from  ti^e  lighthouse,  and  marks  tho  point 
where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Blonde  went  to  ])icof;s,  in  1782.  Her  crew  was  res- 
cued from  the  island  and  was  given  liberty  by  the  American  privateers 
Lively  and  Scammell,  which  were  prowling  about  Cape  Sable  at  the  time 
of  th«  wreck. 

When  the  Seal  Island  lighthouse  s  just  abeam,  on  the  other  side  Is  seen 
Cockerwhit  and  the  Mutton  Island:^^ ;  N.  of  Seal  Island  the  Noddy,  Mud, 
and  Round  Islands  are  seen,  lyinjr  well  out  at  sea.  The  early  Trench 
maps  (Chaubert's)  gave  these  lonely  islands  tho  significant  name  of  Les 
Isles  aux  Loups  Marins. 

From  Cape  Sable  "  one  goes  to  the  Isle  avx  Cormorants,  a  league  distant,  so  enlled 
on  account  of  the  infinite  number  there  of  tUo^u  birds,  with  whose  eggs  we  filled  a 


^^ 


TUSKET  ISLANDS. 


JtoiUf  S5. 


125 


■^1 


^ 


cfti"k ;  Rnd  from  thU  hay  makhis  W.  ahmit  R  leamiPi » <'r«wsln (?  n  bay  which  nin«  In 
2  -li  lengu«H  to  th«  N.,  wo  meet  Hcvoral  inlandH,  'l-'A  loiiKues  out  to  »«n,  whloli  may 
contain,  Home  '2,  others  3  Icanucs,  and  otluTH  Iohh,  accordiii)?  to  my  judgment.  Tlicy 
aro  mostly  wry  danj;croua  for  vcsscIm  to  como  close  to,  on  account  of  the  ffrcat  tides 
and  roclts  level  witti  the  water.  Thcc  Islands  arc  filled  with  pine-trees,  firs,  birches, 
and  aspens.  A  little  further  on  are  4  others.  In  one  there  Is  so  groat  a  quantity  of 
birds  called  tani;Hnix  that  they  may  be  eanily  knocked  down  with  a  stick.  In 
another  there  are  seals.  In  two  others  there  is  such  an  abundance  of  birds  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  that,  without  having  seen  them,  could  not  bo  imagined,  such  as  cor- 
morants, ducks  of  three  kinds,  geese,  marmtttes,  bustards,  p^-rrof/M^/.i  ilf  >/i>'r,  snipes, 
vultures,  and  other  birds  of  prey,  ynnitnes,  sea-larks  of  two  or  three  kinds,  herons, 
goillnnts,  curlews,  sea-gulls,  divers,  kites,  appoils,  crows,  crunos,  and  other  tiorts, 
which  make  their  nests  here."  (Champlain.) 

"  Here  are  many  islands  extending  into  the  sea,  4  -  5  M.  distant  from  the  main- 
land, and  many  rocks  with  breaking  seas.  Some  of  these  islands,  on  account  of  tho 
multitude  of  birds,  are  called  hies  mix  Tangueux ;  others  are  called  Islesavx  Loups 
Marins  (Seal  Islands)."    (Novua  Oiinis.) 

N.  of  St.  John's  Island  (on  the  r.)  is  seen  the  deep  Inlet  of  Pnbnico  Hiir- 
bor,  on  wlioso  shores  is  the  great  fishing-village  of  Pubnioo  ( CarlaruTa 
Hotel),  with  1,900  inhabitants,  of  whom  136  families  are  Acadian-French, 
the  greater  portion  belonging  to  the  families  of  Amiro  and  D'Entremont. 
There  are  valuable  eel-fisheries  oft'  this  coast,  and  tho  Acadians  own  65 
schooners  in  the  Banks  fisheries.  6  M.  N.  is  Arffyle,  a  settlement  of  800 
inhabitants,  near  the  island-strewn  Abuptic  Harbor. 

Tho  steamer  now  crosses  the  mouth  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  estuary  o"f 
the  Tusket  River  (see  page  110),  and  enters  the  archipelago  of  the  *  Tusket 
Islands.  In  favorable  conditions  of  wind  and  tide  she  traverses  the  Ellen- 
wood  Passage,  passing  the  Bald  Tuskets,  Kllenwood,  Allen,  and  Murder 
Islands,  and  a  multitude  of  others.  The  islands  are  of  great  variety  of  size 
and  shape,  and  are  usually  thickly  'covered  with  low  and  sturdy  trees; 
and  the  channels  between  them  are  na.TOw  and  very  deep.  The  frequent 
kaleidoscopic  changes  in  the  views  on  -either  side,  and  the  fascinating 
commingling  and  contrast  of  forest,  rock,  ainl  water,  recall  the  scenery  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  or  tho  Narrows  of  Lake  George.  But  the  Tuskets 
aro  not  even  embayed ;  they  stand  off  one  of  the  sharpest  angles  of  the 
continent,  and  the  deep  lanes  between  them  are  traversed  by  the  strongest 
tides  of  the  ocean. 

Soon  after  passing  the  last  Tusket  the  steamer  runs  in  near  the  white 
village  on  Jebogue  Point,  and  enters  Yarmouth  Sound.  On  the  1.  is  Cape 
Fourchu,  with  its  fog-whistle  and  a  lofty  revolving  light  which  is  visible 
for  18  M.  The  narrow  channel  is  ascended,  with  a  plain  of  mud  on  either 
side,  if  the  tide  is  out;  and  the  vessel  reaches  the  end  of  her  journey  at  the 
wharves  of  Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth,  see  page  114. 


123        Route  2G.       ST.   MAUGARET'S  LAY. 


i  I 


i.  '■ 


I 


1 


2G.   Halifax  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Route.  —  Chester 

and  ¥    ^  \e  Bay. 

The  easipRt  route  to  the  chief  porw  on  this  const  is  hv  the  steamship  line  (see 
Koiite  25) ;  and  tlic  iio-v  \\c.« torn-* '( unities  Uaiiuiiy.  from  Yiirnioiitli  to  Annajjolis, 
vill,whfu  conipletcil,  fiiniisli  a  still  more  exiK'ilitious  line  of  travel.  Hut  many 
|ioint8  on  the  Atlantic  front  of  the  Province  are.  and  will  be,  accessible  only  by 
t  fji^es.  This  mode  of  travel  is  fully  as  arduous  here  as  in  other  remote  districts.  i'.:;d 
tile  accommodations  for  wayfarers  are  indilTerei.t. 

I>lMaiices.  —  Halifax  to  St.  Martiarefs  Hay.  21  M  ;  Hubbard's  {!ove(McLean's\ 
02  :  Chester,  4r. ;  Mahone  Hav,  ()2  (branch  to  Lunenburg;  in  7  M.) ;  Hrid^ewater,  70 ; 
Mill  Village,  88:  Liverpool, ' it7  ;  Hort  Mouton,  107;  I'ort  Joli,112;  Sable  Uiver, 
122;  .Jordan  Kiver,  130 ;  Shelburne,  137;  liarrinjjton,  157  ;  Pubnico,  175  ;  Tusket, 
I'Jl  ;  Yarmouth,  201.  (Certain  facts  ascertained  while  travelling  over  thi.-  route 
liave  led  tlie  Editor  to  stati'  the  distance  between  Hr.'dfrcwater  and  Cbester  an-  4  M. 
liit-H  than  that  ffiven  in  the  official  ititieiiiry.) 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Chester,  .*2.50;  Mahone  Tiiy,  !*3.50  (Lunenburg,  ^i); 
Hridgcwutcr,  $  4 ;  Livcrpoc',  SO;  Shelburne,  S=8.5U  ;  Harrington,  §  10  ;  Yarmouth, 
$12. 

TIio  stapo  rattlos  uj)  the  hilly  streets  oC  Iliillfax  at  early  inorniiifr,  and 
traverses  tlic  wide  coimuoiis  X.  of  the  Citadel,  with  formal  lines  of  trees 
on  either  side.  IJeyoiid  the  ensuing  line  of  snburban  villas  it  de  .ecnd.s  to 
the  level  of  the  XortI;\vc:it  Ann  (see  paj^e  100),  along  wliose  head  it  passes. 
The  road  then  leads  along  the  shores  of  the  lakes  whence  Halifax  draws 
its  water-snpply,  and  enters  a  dreary  ami  thinly  settled  region.  Dauphi- 
iiey's  Cove  is  at  the  head  of*  St.  Margaret^s  Bay,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful bays  on  all  this  remarkable  eoast.  It  is  12  M  long  by  G  M.  wide,  and 
is  entered  by  a  passage  2  M.  wide;  and  is  supjiosed  to  hnvc  been  named 
(Bate  (le  Ste.  Marguerite)  by  Chanijilain,  who  visited  it  in  May,  1G03. 
There  arc  several  small  nnn'itimc  villages  on  its  shores,  and  the  dark  blue 
•waters,  bounded  by  rugged  hills,  are  deep  enough  for  the  passage  of  largo 
ships.  The  stage  runs  S.  W.  along  the  shore  for  11  M.,  sometimes  rolling 
alongside  of  beaches  of  dazzling  white  sand,  then  by  .shingly  and  sttmy 
str".uds  on  which  the  embayed  surf  breaks  lightly,  and  then  by  the  liuts 
i)f  fishermen's  lianil"ts,  with  their  boats,  !iets,  and  kettles  by  the  road- 
side. Ilubbariis  Cove  has  u  small  inn,  where  pas.sengers  get  their  midday 
meiils. 

There  wa.'»  an  nnriont  water-route  from  this  point  to  the  Hasin  of  Minas.  2  M. 
from  the  Cove  is  Dnuphinei/'x  I^kf,  which  is  4  M.  long,  wlien<-e  a  carry  of  1\  M.  leads 
into  the  Ponhooh  Lnhr,  a  river  like  expanse  «  .M.  I(':ig,  and  nowhere  so  much  as  1 
M.  wide.  A  short  outlet  leads  to  the  Hlind  Lake,  wliich  winds  for  7  M.  through  the 
forests  \V.  of  the  Ardoise  Mt.,  aud  is  drained  by  the  St.  Croix  Hirer,  emptying  into 
the  Avon  at  Windsor. 

7  M.  S.  \V.  of  Hubbard's  Covo  the  stage  crosses  the  East  liivcr,  "n 
glorious  runway  for  salmon,  with  splendid  falls  and  cold  brooks  tumbling 
into  it  at  intervals,  at  the  moulh  of  which  large  trout  can  be  caught  two 
nt  a  time,  if  the  angler  be  skilful  enough  to  land  them  whan  hooked." 
Frequent  and  beautiful  views  of  Mahone  Hay  arc  now  gained  (on  the  1.), 
as  the  stage  sweeps  unmnd  it*  head  and  descends  to 


T 


lAt 


-IP 


CHESTER. 


Route  ^G.         127 


Chester  (two  roo.I  inns),  a  village  of  jibout  900  inhabitants,  finely  situ- 
ntod  on  a  liili-sl(>])e  which  overlooks  tho  Chester  Basin  and  ^hlhone  Bay. 
It  has  three  churches,  and  a  ])loa«ant  pummor  society.  Thin  town  was 
Fettled  about  the  yi'ar  17G0  by  144  Xew-Knglanders,  who  brought  an  outfit 
of  cattle  and  fanning-tools.  In  1784  they  were  joined  by  a  large  number 
of  Loyalist  refugees,  but  these  were  from  the  American  cities,  and  soon 
wearied  of  farming  and  returned  out  of  exile.  In  the  woods  near  the  vil- 
Ti  lago  is  a  thermal  spring  8  ft.  around,  whence  a  soft  alkaline  water  is  dis- 

charged; and  on  the  shores  of  Sabbatee  Lake  are  found  deposits  of  kaolin, 
or  white  pipe-clay. 

Mr.  Ilallock  is  an  enthusiastic  nJmircr  of  this  town,  and  says  :  "  Throo  pleasant 
seasons  have  I  spent  at  (.'hester.  I  iULlize  its  very  name.  Just  below  my  winilow  a 
lawn  slopes  down  to  a  little  bay  with  a  jetty,  where  an  occasional  schooner  lands 
Bonie  stores.  There  is  a  lary;e  tree,  under  which  I  have  piacei  . Mime  seats  ;  and  off 
the  end  of  the  pier  the  ladies  can  catch  lloundcrs,  tonicods,  and  cunners,  in  any 
quantity.  There  i\xm  beautiful  drives  in  tho  vicinity,  and  innumerable  islands  in 
the  bay,  where  one  can  bathe  and  j-icnic  to  hearfs-content.  There  are  s.dlingboatd 
for  lob.ster-spearinK  and  deep-sea  fishinR,  and  row-boats  too.  From  the  top  of  a 
nei-^hboriii);  hill  is  a  woiideif'ul  p;inorania  of  forest,  stream  and  cultivated  shore,  of 
ba\s  and  llsUnit  sea,  filled  with  islands  of  every  size  and  shape.  And  if  one  will  go 
t')  «iold  Kiver  he  may  perchance  see,  as  I  have  done,  caribou  <iuietly  feeding  on  tho 
natural  meadows  along  the  upper  stream.  Ueyond  lU'ecli  Hill  is  a  trackless  forest, 
filled  with  moose,  with  which  two  old  hunters  living  near  oft  hold  familiar  inter- 
course."    {The  Fishing  Tuiirist.) 

One  of  the  pleasantest  excursions  in  this  district  is  to  Deep  Cove  and 
Bliindford,  16  M.  from  Chester,  by  a  road  which  follows  tho  shores  of 
Mahone  Bay.  From  Blandford  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Aspotogon  is  easily  ac- 
complished, and  rewards  th.c  visitor  by  a  superb  marine*  view,  including 
the  great  archipelago  of  Mahone  Bay,  tho  deep,  calm  tvaters  of  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  on  the  E.,  the  Jjrokcn  and  picturesque  shores  towards  Capo 
Sanibro,  and  a  wide  swoop  of  the  l)lue  Atlantic.  Visitors  at  Chester  also 
drive  down  the  Lunenburg  and  Lahavo  road,  which  ailbrds  pretty  sea- 
views. 

A  rugged  road  leads  across  the  Provinco  to  AVindsor,  about  40  M.  N.,  passing 
through  an  almost  unbroken  wilderness  of  hills,  and  following  the  course  of  tho 
Avon  Lakes  and  Uiver.  Semi  weekly  stiiges  run  from  Chester  to  Keutvillu  {tee 
page  1)0). 

*  Mahone  Bay  opens  to  tho  S.,  E.  and  W.  from  Chester,  and  may  bo 
1^^  explored  by  boats  or  yachts  from  that  village.     It  is  studded  with  beau- 

tiful islands,  popularly  supposed  to  bo  305  in  immbor,  the  largest  of  which 
are  occupied  by  cosey  little  farms,  while  the  smaller  ones  are  covered  with 
bits  of  forest.  The  mainland  shores  arc  nearly  all  occupied  by  prosperous 
farms,  which  are  under  the  care  of  the  laborious  Germans  of  the  county. 
The  togs  prevail  in  these  waters  to  a  far  loss  extent  than  on  the  outer 
deep,  and  it  is  not  inlVoiiuontly  that  vessels  round  the  point  in  a  dense 
white  mist  and  enter  the  sunshine  on  the  Bay.  Boats  and  boatmen  may 
be  obtained  at  the  villages  along  the  shore,  and  pleasant  excursions  may 
bo  made  among  tho  islands,  in  pursuit  of  fish.     "  Tho  unrivalled  beauty 


128        Route  2G. 


MAHONE  BAY. 


f-}, 


t 


of  Mahone  Bay"  has  been  tho  tliome  of  praise  from  all  who  have  visited 
this  district.  In  June,  1813,  the  liiie-of-l)uttk'-sliii)  La  Ilvyue  and  the 
frigate  Orpheus  chased  tiic  Americati  privateer  J'uw/j//  Ttaztr  in  among 
these  islands.  Though  completely  over[)owered,  the  Yankee  vessel  re- 
fused to  surrender,  and  she  was  blown  np  by  one  of  her  officers.  The 
whole  crew,  1)4  in  number,  was  destroyed  in  this  catastrophe. 

Oak  Island  is  oolobratcd  ns  one  of  the  places  where  it  is  alleged  that  Capt. 
Kidil"s  trtiisure  is  bidtU-n.  AI)oiit  80  jcara  u(fo  3  Now-EuKlanders  claimed  to  have 
fountl  here  evidences  of  a  buried  mystery,  coinciding  with  u  tradition  to  the  same 
etl'cct.  Digging  down,  tlu-y  passed  regular  layers  of  Hag-stones  and  cut  logs,  and 
their  xuccessors  jR'netrated  tho  earth  over  100  ft.  farther,  finding  layers  of  timber, 
chi»r«'oal,  putty,  West-Indian  gnu»«,  sawed  planks,  and  other  curious  substances, 
together  with  a  quaintly  carved  .stone.  The  pit  became  flooded  with  water,  and  was 
punii)ed  out  steadily.  Halifax  and  Truro  merchants  invested  in  the  enterprise,  and 
gn>at  stone  dniins  were  di.xcovewd  leading  from  the  sea  into  the  pit.  After  much 
money  and  labor  was  spent  in  the  excavatidn,  it  was  given  up  about  10  years  ago, 
and  the  object  of  the  giiiat  draius  and  concealed  pit  still  remains  a  profound  mys- 
tery. 

Bis:  Tanrook  is  the  chief  of  the  islands  in  this  bay,  and  is  about  2  M.  long.  It 
contains  iJOO  inhabitant*,  who  are  engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Between  this 
point  and  -Mt.  Aspotogon  is  Little  Tancook  Island,  with  (><»  inhabitants.  These 
islands  were  devjistated,  in  17ot),  by  the  Indians,  who  killed  several  of  the  settlers. 

"  This  bay,  the  scenery  of  which,  for  picturescjue  grandeur,  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  land.sca|M;  in  America,  is  about  10  M.  broad  and  1*2  de<'p,  and  contains  within  it 
a  multitude  of  l>eautiful  wooded  islands,  which  were  probably  ne'er  counted,  but 
are  said  to  exceed  200."' 

Soon  after  the  Yarmouth  stage  leaves  Chester  "  we  come  to  Ohester 
Basin,  island-gcmnied  and  indeiiti'd  with  many  a  little  cove;  itiid  far  out 
to  Fea,  looming  up  in  solitary  grandeur,  is  Aspotogon,  a  mountain  head- 
land said  to  be  the  highest  hui'l  in  Nova  Scotia  (  V  ).  The  road  follows  tho 
shore  for  many  a  mile,  and  then  turns  abruptly  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Gold  River,  the  finest  of  all  the  salmon  streams  of  this  grand  locality.  In 
it  there  are  eleven  glorious  pools,  all  within  2  M.  of  each  other,  and  others 
for  several  miles  above  at  longer  intervals." 

Mahone  Boy  (Victoria  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  800  inluibitants,  situated  on 
a  pretty  cove  about  17  M.  from  Chester.  It  has  4  churdies,  and  its  inhab- 
itants are  mostly  engaged  in  fishing  and  the  liunber-trade.  In  the  vicinity 
arc  several  other  populous  German  settlements,  and  7  M.  S.  is  Lunenburg 
(see  page  118).  This  point  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of 
Afushamush,  and  was  fortified  by  the  British  in  1764. 

The  stage  now  traver-es  a  dreary  inland  region,  inhabited  by  Germans, 
and  soon  reaches  Bvidytwater  (two  imis),  a  thriving  village  on  the  Lahavo 
Kiver,  13  M.  from  the  sea.  It  has  1,000  inhabitants  and  4  churches,  and 
is  largely  engaged  in  the  luml)er-tra(le,  exjKtrting  staves  to  the  I'nited 
States  and  the  West  Indies.  The  scenery  of  the  Lahave  River  is  at- 
tractive and  picturescjue,  but  the  saw-mills  on  its  upper  waters  have 
proved  fatal  to  the  fish  (see  page  110).  The  road  now  traverses  a  tlismal 
region  for  18  M.,  when  it  reaches  Mill  Villit<)i  (siindl  hotel),  on  the  I'ort 
Medway  River.    This  place  has  several  lurge  haw-milU  and  a  match- 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


r.oute  S7. 


129 


11 « 


fiictory,  and  its  population  numbers  about  400.  It  is  near  tlio  Doran  and 
Herringcovo  Lalvcs,  and  i-*  G  M.  from  tiie  Tliird  Falls  of  tlio  Lahave.  9  M. 
S.  W.  is  Liverpool  (reo  papc  120). 

From  Liverpool  to  Yarmouth  the  road  runs  nlonp;  the  heads  of  the  bays 
and  acrops  the  intorvenin?;  strips  of  land.  The  chief  stations  and  tlieir 
distances  are  given  in  the  itinerary  on  page  120;  the  Jescriptious  of  the 
towns  may  be  found  in  Route  25. 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes. 

This  system  of  inland  wators  is  most  easily  reached  from  ITallfax  or  Pt.  .Toha 
by  passing;  to  Aunaiiolis  Uoyal  and  there  tukiug  the  stage  which  leaves  nt  6  A.  M. 
daily. 

Dlstanocs.  — Annapolis;  >Iilf()rd,14  M. ;  Maitland,27;  Northfiold,30  ;  Kempt, 
a');  IJniokfu-ld,  41;  Caledouia  Comer;  (ireeufleld  (I'ouhook),  50;  Middlefield,  50; 
Liverpo,;,  70. 

Soon  after  leaving  Annapolis  the  stage  enters  the  valley  of  Allen's  River, 
which  is  followed  toward  the  long  low  range  of  the  South  Mt.  At  MUj'ord 
(small  inn)  the  upper  reservoirs  of  tlie  Liverpool  River  are  met,  and  from 
this  point  it  is  possil)le  to  descend  in  canoes  or  lint-bottomed  boats  to  the 
town  of  Liverpool,  60  >L  distant.  If  a  competent  guide  can  be  secured 
at  Milford  this  trip  con  be  made  with  safety,  and  will  open  up  rare  fishing- 
grounds.  The  lakes  are  nearly  all  bordcreil  by  low  and  rocky  shores,  with 
hiil-rauges  in  the  distance;  and  flow  through  regions  a  Inch  are  as  yet  but 
little  vexed  i)y  the  works  of  man.  The  trout  in  these  waters  are  abundant 
and  not  ocoy;  though  better  fishing  is  found  in  proportion  to  the  dis- 
tance to  which  the  southern  forest  is  entered.  Mr.  McClelland  has  been 
the  best  guide  from  Milford,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  he  will  be  avail- 
able this  summer. 

Queen's  and  Lunenburg  Counties  form  "  the  lake  region  of  Xova  Scotia. 
All  that  it  lacks  is  the  grand  old  mountains  to  make  it  physically  as  at- 
tractive as  the  Adirondacks,  while  as  for  game  and  fish  it  is  in  everj'  way 
infinitely  superior.  Its  rivers  are  short,  but  tliey  flow  with  full  volume 
to  the  sea,  and  yield  abundantly  of  salmon,  trout,  and  sea-trout.  Its  lakes 
swarm  with  trout,  and  into  many  of  them  the  salmon  ascend  to  spawn, 
and  are  dipped  and  speared  by  the  Indians  hi  large  numbers."  (Hal- 
lock.) 

"  In  the  liollows  of  the  liiphlands  are  Hkowlse  embosomed  lakes  of  every  variety 
of  form,  and  often  quite  i.««olated.  Deep  and  intensely  blue,  their  shores  fringed 
vitli  rtt<-k  bowlders,  and  ^:enerally  eontaininR  several  islands,  they  do  nuieh  to  di- 
versify the  monotony  of  the  forest  by  their  fre(iueucy  and  picturesque  scenery." 
(I'.Vl'T.  II.VRDY.) 

The  Liverpool  road  is  rugged,  and  leads  through  a  region  of  almost  un- 
broken forests.  IJeyond  Milford  it  runs  S.  E.  down  the  valleys  of  the 
r.oot  Lake  and  Fisher's  Lake,  with  dark  forests  and  ragged  clearings  on 
either  side.  Maitlmul  U  a  settlement  of  about  400  inhabitants,  and  a  fe:v 
iiiiKs  beyond  is  Northfield,  whence  a  forest-road  leads  S.  W.  6  M.  to  the 

(;♦  I 


m 


i  f  ■■ 

■  ii  1 

^  !|i 

■    ■  ■ 

tt' 

1 

:  \\ 

1  ' 

Ik  1 

II 1 '  i 

If'     ' 

fiii 

'  p 

U  i:^ 

I'  ■; 

\^- 

i 

\    r- 

j4 

130        Routed. 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


''■i  \\ 


fiiy, 


shore  of  Fairy  Lal-e,  or  the  Frozen  Ocean,  a  beautiful  ishuul-strewn  ?hcet 
of  water  4  ^I.  long. 

The  road  now  enters  Brool: field,  the  centre  of  the  new  funning  settle- 
ments of  the  North  District  of  Queen's  County.  Sevcnil  roads  diverge 
hence,  and  in  the  vicinity  the  lakes  and  tributaries  of  the  Liverpool  and 
Port  Medway  Rivers  arc  curiously  interlaced.  6-G  M.  S.  E.  is  the  Malnja 
Lcike,  which  is  5  M.  long  and  has  several  pretty  Islands.  Tlie  road  passes 
on  to  Greenfield,  a  busy  lumbering-village  at  the  outlet  of  Port  Medway  i^^ 

Great  Lake.  This  long-drawn-out  sheet  of  water  is  also  skirted  by  the 
other  road,  which  runs  S.  from  Brookficld  through  Cfdedonia  Corner 
(small  inn).  The  Ponhook  Road  is  S.  W.  of  Greenfield  and  runs  down 
through  the  forest  to  the  outlet  of  Fonhook  Lake,  '  the  headquarters  of 
the  Micmacs  and  of  all  the  salmon  of  the  Liverpool  River  "  This  Lidiun 
village  is  the  place  to  get  guides  who  are  tireless  and  are  familiar  with 
every  rod  of  the  lak'^  district.  From  this  point  a  canoe  voyage  of  about 
8  M.  across  the  Ponhook  Lakes  leads  the  voyager  into  the  great  *  Lake 
BossignoL  which  is  12  M.  long  by  8  M.  wide,  and  affords  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  sights  in  Nova  Scotia. 

"  A  glorious  view  was  unfolded  as  wc  loft  the  run  and  entered  the  still  water  of 
the  lake.  The  breeze  fell  rapidly  with  the  .•<ini  and  enabled  us  to  steer  towards  the 
centre,  from  which  alone  the  size  of  the  lake  could  be  apjireciated,  owing  to  the 
number  of  the  islands.  These  were  of  every  imaginable  shape  and  size,  —  from  the 
grizzly  rock  bearing  a  solitary  stunted  pine,  shaggy  with   Usnea,  to  those  of  a  mile  ' 

in  length,  thickly  wooded  with  maple,  beech,  and  birches Here  and  there  a 

bright  sjiot  of  white  sand  formed  a  beach  tempting  for  a  disembarkation  ;  and  fre- 
quent .'■■ylvaa  scenes  of  an  almost  fairy-land  character  opened  up  as  we  coastid  along 
the  shores,  —  little  harbors  almost  closed  in  from  the  lake,  overgrown  with  water- 
lilies,  arrow-heads,  and  other  aquatic  plants,  with  mossy  banks  backed  by  bosky 
groves  of  hemlocks."    (Capt.  Hardv.) 

At  the  fiiot  of  Lake  Rossignol  is  a  wide  oak-opening,  with  a  fiiie  greensward  'inder 
groves  of  white  oaks.  Near  this  point  the  Liverpool  lliver  flows  out,  jKissing  sevenil 
islets,  and  affording  good  trout-fishing.  In  and  about  this  oak-oi)ening  was  the 
chief  village  of  the  ancient  Micmacs  of  this  region  ;  and  here  ar-"  their  nearly  ol)lit- 
enited  burying-grounds.  The  site  is  now  a  favorite  resort  for  hunting  amrfishing 
parties.  The  name  Ponhook  means  "  the  first  lake  in  a  chain  "  ;  and  these  slH)res 
are  one  of  the  few  districts  of  the  vast  domains  of  Miui^i'Viu/iirhff,  or  "  Micniac 
Land,"  that  remain  in  the  po.«session  of  the  aborigines,  l-'rom  Touhook  12  lakes 
may  be  entered  by  canoes  without  making  a  single  portage. 

From  Lake  Rossignol  the  sportsman  may  visit  the  long  chain  of  the 
Ser/vjn-Ser/a  Lakes,  entered  from  a  stream  on  the  N.  W.  shore  (several  ^ 

portages),  and  may  thence  ascend  to  the  region  of  the  Hlue  Mts.  and  into  '*^ 

Shelbnrne  County.  The  Indian  Gardens  may  also  bo  visited  thence,  af- 
fording many  attractions  fov  riflemen.  The  Micmacs  of  Ponhook  are  the 
best  guides  to  the  remoter  parts  of  tlie  forest.  There  are  several  gentle- 
men in  the  town  of  Liverjjool  who  have  traversed  these  pleasant  solitudes, 
and  they  will  aid  fellow-sportsmen  loyally.  The  Indian  village  is  only 
about  15  M.  from  Liverpool,  by  a  road  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river. 

Liverpool,  see  page  120. 


I 


CHEZZETCOOK. 


lioutc  28. 


131 


28.   Halifax  to  Tangier. 


^' 


I 


•^ 


The  Roval  niail-stafTP  loaves  Ilalifiix  at  G  a.  m.  on  Monday,  Wodnosday,  and  Fri- 
day (ri'tiiiiiini;  tlio  alteruatt.' days  ,  for  tl»>  villiij;i-s  aloii;,'  tljo  Atlautu-  shore  to  tlio 
E.  The  lonvcyanco  is  not  good,  and  the  roads  arc  souietinies  iu  bad  couditiou,  but 
there  is  pretty  coa.-t->eenery  along  the  route. 

Distances. —  Halifax;  Dartmouth;  Porter's  Lake  (Inniss),  1(5 'J  M.  ;  Chez/x't- 
cook  lload  (Onnon's),  18 '^  ;  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  2>S'^.  ;  Lakeville  (Webber's),  40; 
Ship  Harbor,  48;  Tangier,  60  ;  Slieet  Harbor,  74  ;  Beaver  Harbor,  84. 

After  leaving  Dartmouth,  the  stage  runs  E.  through  a  lakc-strcwn  conn- 
tri',  and  passes  near  the  gold-mines  of  Montague.  Beyond  the  Little 
Salmon  Iilver  it  traverses  Preston,  with  the  gold-bearing  district  of 
Lawrcncetown  on  the  S.  The  mines  and  j)Iacer-washings  at  this  point 
drew  largo  and  enthusiastic  crowds  of  adventurers  in  1801-62,  but  they 
arc  now  nearly  abandoned.  The  road  rounds  the  N.  end  of  Echo  Lake 
and  ascends  a  ridge  beyond,  after  which  it  (  rosses  the  long  and  river-liko 
expanse  of  Portcr^s  Lake,  and  runs  through  the  post-village  of  the  same 
name.  3-4  M.  to  the  S.  E.  is  C/iezzetcook  Harbor,  with  its  Jong  shores 
lined  with  settlements  of  the  Acadian  French,  whereof  Cozzcns  writes:  — 

"  But  wo  are  again  in  the  Acadian  forest ;  let  us  enjoy  the  seencry .  The  road  wo 
nrc  on  is  but  a  few  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  l)ut  the  oeean  is  hidden  from  view  by 
the  thick  woods.  As  we  ride  along,  however,  we  skirt  the  edges  of  coves  and  inlets 
that  frcijuently  break  in  uj)on  the  landscape.  There  is  a  chain  of  fresh-water  lakes 
also  along  this  road.  Sometimes  wo  cross  a  bridge  over  a  rushing  torn'nt ;  some- 
times a  calm  expan.«e  of  water,  d')vdiling  the  evergreens  at  its  margin,  comes  into 
view  ;  anon  u  gleam  of  sapphire?  strikes  through  the  verdure,  and  an  ocean-bay  with 
its  shingly  beach  curves  in  and  out  between  the  piny  slopes.  " 

Hero  "  the  water  of  tlio  harbor  has  an  intensity  of  color  rarely  swn,  except  in 
the  pictures  of  the  most  ultramarine  i)ainters.  Hen;  and  there  a  green  island  or  a 
fishing-boat  rested  u])on  the  surface  of  the  tmnquil  blue.  For  miles  and  miles  tho 
j've  followed  indented  grassy  slopes  that  rolled  away  on  eitlicr  side  of  the  harbor, 
and  the  most  delicate  i)encil  could  scari'ely  portray  tli(!ex(juisite  line  of  creamy  sand 
that  skirted  their  edges  and  melted  oil  in  the  clear  margin  of  the  water.  Occasional 
little  cottages  nestle  among  these  greon  banks,  —  not  the  Ac.-idiun  houses  of  tho 
poem,  'witli  thatched  roofs   and   dormer-windows    projecting,'  but   comfortfible, 

Immely-Iooking  buildings  of  modern  sha|)es,  shingletl  and  un-weathercocked 

The  women  of  tMu'/,z«'tcook  appear  at  daylight  in  tho  city  of  Halifax,  and  as  .soon  as 
tlie  sun  is  up  vanish  like  the  (lew.  They  have  usually  a  liasket  of  fn'>h  eggs,  a  braco 
or  two  of  worsted  socks,  a  bottle  of  llr  bal.sjvm,  to  sell.  The.so  couii»ri.-<o  their  simple 
tommercc." 

Chez2A'tcook  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1740,  but  was  abandoned  during  tho 
long  .sub.<equent  wars.  After  the  British  conquest  and  pacification  of  Acaclia,  many 
of  the  old  families  returned  to  their  former  homes,  and  l'he7.zetcook  was  re-<K'c»ipicd 
by  its  early  settlers.  They  formed  an  agricnltund  community,  and  grew  npidly 
in  i>rosperity  and  in  numbers.  There  are  about  'li'A)  families  now  resident  about  tho 
bay,  pn<serving  the  names  and  language  and  many  of  the  primitive  customs  of  tiie 
Aeadians  of  the  Basin  of  .Miuas.    (tiee  pages  108  and  113.) 

Tho  road  passes  near  tho  head  of  Chcz/.etcook  Harbor,  on  the  r.,  and 
then  turns  N.  E.  between  tlio  blue  waters  of  Cliozzetcook  (ireat  Lake  ( 1.) 
and  Popiswick  Lake  (r.).  The  deep  inlet  of  Miisfjuodobok  Harbor  is  soon 
reached,  and  its  head  is  crossed.  This  is  the  harbor  where  Capt.  Hardy 
made  his  pen-])icturG  of  this  romantic  coast:  — 

••  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  scenery  in  ^•omo  of  tho  Atlantic  harbors  of 
Nova  Scotia,  — their  hummerable  islands  and  heavily-wooded  shores  fringed  with 


132 


Pioute  SS. 


TANGIER. 


:■!  ■  .1 


U-i^ 


Ji 


tho  polilon  kolp,  the  wild  undulntinpr  liill'^  of  niriplc  risinp  In  the  backfrronnd,  tho 
l):itclics  of  nicailow,  mid  ncsit  little  whito  sliaiitics  of  tlie  lislieruifirs  iloiiriiij^s,  .... 
the  lir  woods  of  tho  wv.'^ti'iii  slioiva  liatiii-d  in  tlu;  morning  sunboani.-*,  tlic  perfect 
rclli'(ti(.n  of  tlio  island.-*  and  of  tlu)  little  lishinK-sdiooncr.'),  tlic  wreiitlis  of  blue 
Knioke  risinj^  from  their  eahin  htove.-*,  and  the  roar  of  tho  di.-<taiit  rajjids,  where  tho 
river  joins  the  harlior,  home  in  ciuU'nce  ou  iho  cai',  uiingled  with  tho  cheerful 
8ound.<  of  awakening  life  from  the  clearings." 

Near  Musiiuocloboit  are  some  valuable  goKl-minc.',  with  two  powerful 
quartz-crushing  mill.«,  and  several  moderately  rich  lodes  of  auriferous 
quartz.  The  staj^e  soon  reaches  tho  W.  arm  o(  Jeddore  Harbor,  and  then 
cros.ses  the  Le  Marchant  Bridj^e.  The  district  of  Jeddore  has  1,023  in- 
habitant.s,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  or  the  coasting  trade, 
alternating  these  employments  with  lumbering  and  shipbuilding.  A  long 
tract  of  wilderness  is  now  traversed,  and  Ship  Harbor  is  reached.  A  few 
miles  N.  W.  Is  tho  broad  expanse  of  Ship  Harbor  Lake,  reaching  nearly 
to  the  IJoar's  Back  IMdge,  and  having  a  length  of  12-14  M.  and  a  width 
of  2-4  M.  To  the  N.  arc  the  hills  whence  falls  the  Tangier  River,  to 
which  tho  hidians  gave  the  onomatopoetic  name  of  Ahmagopakeycch, 
which  signifies  "  tumbling  over  tho  rocks."  The  post-road  now  enters 
the  once  famous  gold-bearing  district  of  Tanr/ier. 

The.so  niine.s  wore  opened  in  ISGO,  and  speedily  became  widelj-  renowned,  attract- 
ing thousands  of  adventjirers  from  all  parts  of  tho  Atlantic  coast.  For  miles  the 
j,'ronnd  wa.s  houejcondjed  with  i)its  and  shafts,  and  the  excited  men  worked  with- 
out intermission.  lUit  tho  pold  wa.s  not  lound  in  masses,  and  only  i)atien(e  and 
hard  work  could  extract  a  limited  quantity  from  the  quartz,  so  the  crowd  beeanio 
discontent(>d  and  went  to  tiio  now  fields.  Lucnitivo  shore-washings  wero  engaged  in 
for  some  tinn;,  and  a  stray  nugget  of  Tangier  gold  weighing  27  ounces  was  shown  in 
tho  Duhlin  Kxjwsition.  This  distriel  covers  about  30  square  miles,  and  has  12  lodes 
of  auriferous  (juartz.  The  South  Lode  is  the  most  valuable,  a:id  aj)iK'ars  to  grow 
richer  as  it  descends.  The  mines  are  now  being  worked  by  two  small  companies, 
and  their  average  yield  is  $  400-600  per  miner  each  year. 

Beyond  Tangier  and  Pope's  Bay  the  post-road  passes  the  head  of  Sj)7'y 
Hfijj,  and  then  the  head  of  Mushaboon  Harbor,  and  reaches  Sheet  Harbor 
(Karnal's  Hotel).  This  is  a  small  shipbuilding  village,  at  the  head  of  the 
long  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  is  at  the  outlets  of  the  Middle  and 
North  Rivers,  famous  for  their  fine  salmon  fisheries. 

From  this  point  a  road  follows  the  sliore  to  the  N.  E.  to  Shorbrooke,  about  50  M. 
distJint,  i)assing  the  obscure  maritime  hamlets  of  Beaver  Harbor,  Necum  Tench, 
Ekum  Sekum,  Marie  Jo.seph,  and  Jjiscomb  Harbor.  Tho  back-country  on  all  this 
route  is  yet  desolate  and  ini.settled.  There  are  so  many  islands  off  tiie  shore  that 
this  pf)rtion  of  the  Atlantic  is  called  the  Bay  of  Islands  (old  French,  Baie  de  I'uults 
les  Islrs),  although  it  is  not  embayed. 

Slierbrooke,  see  page  133. 


«1^ 


i:» 


¥* 


GUYSBOROUGII. 


Jtoute  20. 


133 


<^ 


29.   The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia. 

This  district  i.^  ronrhod  Ity  paspinR  on  tho  Tntcrrolonial  Railwfiy  (sec  Routes  10 
and  17)  from  St  .lohn  or  llnlifax  to  New  Glasgow,  and  thence  taking  the  lloyal 
mail-stage  to  Auti^'ouish  (see  lloutc  32). 

From  Antigniiisli  a  stage  departs  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
mornings,  running  40  M.  S.  (fare,  S2)  to  Sherbrooke  (two  inns).  This  ia 
a  village  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  St.  .Mary's  IJiver,  tiie  largest  river  in  Nova 
Seotia,  and  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  that  stream.  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  in  the  exportation  of  deals  and  lumber.  The  town  de- 
rives considerable  interest  iVom  the  fact  that  in  the  vicinity  is  one  of  tho 
broadest  and  most  prolific  gold-fields  in  the  Province.  Goliknrille  is  3  M. 
from  Sherbrooke,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the  St.  Mary's  on  a  long  bridge. 
This  district  covers  18  square  miles,  and  is  the  richest  in  the  Province, 
having  yielded  as  high  as  $2,000  per  man  per  year,  or  about  three  times 
the  average  production  of  the  best  of  the  Australian  mines.  Tho  aurifer- 
ous lodes  are  operated  at  Goldenville  oidy,  where  there  are  several  quartz- 
crushers  on  a  large  scale.  These  mines  were  discovered  in  1801,  and  on 
the  first  day  over  $500  Avorth  of  gold  was  found  here.  Systematic  minir.<r 
operations  were  soon  commenced,  and  the  yield  of  the  precious  metal  has 
since  been  very  satisfactory. 

The  fVine-Haibor  Golil- field  is  several  miles  S.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  near  tho  mouth 
of  the  St.  Mary'3  lliver.  The  average  yield  per  ton  is  small,  yet  tlie  breadth  and 
continuity  of  tho  lodes  renders  the  work  easy  and  certain.  Tln.s  district  is  seamed 
with  abandoned  shafts  and  tunnels,  one  of  which  is  700  It.  long.  Tho  first  di.scovery 
of  gold  was  niado  in  1800  in  the  sands  of  the  sea-shoiv,  and  the  quartz  lodes  on  tho 
N.  E.  side  of  the  harbor  were  soon  opened.  Of  later  years  the  Wine-IIarbor  di.strict 
has  greatly  declined  in  popularity  and  productiveness. 

The  Slormont  Gold-fieUls  are"  3(3  M.  N.  K.  of  Sherbrooke,  and  are  most  easily 
reached  by  direct  conveyance  from  Antigonisli.  Gold  was  discovered  here  by  tho 
Indians  in  18G1,  and  occurs  in  thick  Itiyers  of  quartz.  Owing  to  its  remoteness, 
this  region  hiis  .  -'mained  imdeveloped,  and  its  total  yield  in  18()9  was  but  227  ounces 
(.§4,540).  Tho  ci.ief  village  in  the  district  is  at  the  head  oi  Country  Harbor,  a  pic- 
tures<iuo  arm  of  t'le  sea,  8  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide.  There  are  fine  opportunities 
for  shooting  and  fishing  among  the  adjacent  bays  and  highlands.  All  this  shore 
was  settled  la  1783  -  4  by  Loyalists  from  North  aiid  South  Carolina. 


■"<> 


Guysborough  and  Cape  Canso. 

Ouysborough  ( GranVs  Hotel)  is  reached  by  daily  mail-stages  from  An- 
tigonish,  from  which  it  is  31  M.  distant  (fare,  $2.50).  After  leaving  tho 
valley  of  the  South  River,  the  road  passes  through  a  rough  and  hilly  region, 
and  descends  through  the  Intervale  Settlement  and  Manchester  to  Guys- 
borough,  a  marine  village  at  the  head  of  Chedabucto  Bay.  It  has  about 
1,500  inhabitants,  with  a  prosperous  academy,  and  is  the  capital  of  Guys- 
borough  County  (named  in  honor  of  Sir  Guy  Carlcton).  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries,  and  has  a  good  and  spacious  harbor.  Tho 
noble  anchorage  of  Alilford  Haven  lies  between  the  town  and  tho  bay. 


i 


i 


Mi 

'  t'l 
.'■■  I 

jl; 


■ 

F 

ri 

1 

r 

[ 

1   i 

i'   -I 


*  i'l' 


i11 


134       Route  30. 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


A  ptrnnR  post  wns  ostnltlishctl  nt  Chivlnbncfo,  on  tho  sito  of  finysboroiijrh  in  l»^'{n, 
by  M.  Dfiiys,  wlio  liud  h^paciDus  wiuvhousi's  iiiid  a  stioiit;  fort  licri',  tonttlur  witli 
120  iiu'ii.  llori'  lit"  ivccivcil  uiid  HUpiMjrtiil  tlic  fxilod  <liildnn  of  D'Aulnay  Chiir- 
iiisay  ;  mid  hero  also  he  was  vainly  l)csi»gt'<l  for  scvt'nil  days  liy  La  (iiraudiiJn'  iind 
!(»()  inon  from  Canso.  In  lil'JK  tlu>  works  won;  lu?ld  l)y  Do  Moiitor(.'iii'iiil,  and  wt-.c 
liravc'ly  di'fondctl  njiainst  tlio  attacks  of  lliu  Now-IOngland  army  iindur  Sir  William 
IMiipps.  Finally,  wlicn  tlio  ltiiildinj;s  of  tlii'  fort  were;  all  in  llami-s  ulioiit  him,  the 
p;allant  Krencliman  siirrondfrcd,  and  was  si-iit  to  I'laccntia  wiMi  liis  soldiers.  Tlio 
ruius  of  the  auiiuut  fort  arc  now  to  be  traced  uuur  the  mouth  of  the  harbor. 

A  boM  ridge  runs  31  M.  E.  Irom  Guyshorough  along  the  S.  shore  of  Chcd- 
abiicto  Uay  to  Cape  Canso,  the  most  easterly  point  of  Nova  Scotia.  A 
road  follows  the  course  of  the  bay  to  the  fishing-village  of  Cajjc  Canso, 
which  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  .nnd  enjoys  a  profitable  little  export 
trade.  Several  islands  lie  ofl'  this  extreme  point  of  Nova  Scotia,  one  of 
■which  bears  two  powerful  wliite  lights  and  a  fog-whistle.  Canso  Harbor 
is  marked  by  a  fixed  red  light  which  is  visible  for  12  M. 

White  Haven  is  on  tho  S.  side  ot  the  great  peninsula  of  Wilmot,  30  M.  from 
Ouysborough,  ami  is  a  small  fishiii};  settlemeiil  situated  on  one  of  the  finest  bays  on 
the  Ameriiaii  coast.  It  was  ori;rinally  intended  to  have  tlio  Intercolonial  Railway 
terminate  here,  and  connect  with  the  transatlantic  steamshiiis.  The  liarbor  i.-' easy 
of  access,  of  cai)acious  breadth,  and  free  from  ice  in  winter.  Its  Iv  jioint  is  White 
Ilcad,  usually  tho  first  land  soon  by  vessels  crofsiMir  from  Europe  in  this  upper  lati- 
tude, on  wliich  is  a  fixed  whit'>  li.';ht.  .lust  \\  \<i  White  Ilaveu  is  the  fishcrmeu's 
hauilet  of  Molasses  Harbor,  near  the  broad  bight  of  Tor  Bay. 

30.   Sable  Island. 

The  Eilitor  inserts  the  following  sketch  of  this  remotest  outpost  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  hoi)ingthat  its  quaint  character  may  make  arjiends  for  its  uselessness  to 
the  siunnier  tourist.  It  may  also  be  of  service  to  voyagers  on  those  coasts  who  should 
chance  to  be  cast  away  on  the  island,  since  no  one  likes  to  be  landed  suddenly  in  a 
strange  country  without  having  some  previous  knowledge  of  tlic  reception  he  may 
get.    • 

A  regular  lino  of  communication  lias  recently  bc<'n  estiiblislied  between  Sable 
Island  and  Halifax.  Tlio  boats  run  once  a  ycsir,  and  are  chartered  by  the  Canadi.in 
government  to  carry  provisions  and  stores  to  the  lighthouse  pcopU;  and  patrols, 
and  to  bring  back  the  persou.s  who  may  have  been  wrecked  there  during  the  pre- 
vious year. 

Sable  Island  is  about  90  M.  S.  E.  of  Cape  Canso.  It  is  n  ban*cn  ex- 
panse of  sand,  without  trees  or  thickets,  and  is  constantly  swept  by  storms, 
under  whose  powerful  pressure  the  whole  aspect  of  the  land  changes,  by 
the  shifting  of  the  low  dunes.  The  only  products  of  this  arid  shore  are 
cranberries,  immense  quantities  of  which  are  found  on  the  lowlands. 

"  Should  any  one  bo  visiting  the  island  now,  he  might  sec,  about  10  M.  distance, 
looking  seaward,  lialf  a  dozen  low  dark  hummocks  on  tho  horizon.  As  he  ap- 
pro.'iches,  they  gradually  resolve  thcm.selves  into  hills  fringed  by  breakers,  and  by 
and  by  tlie  white  tea-l>each  with  its  continued  surf,  —  the  Hand-hills,  iiart  naked, 
part  waving  in  grass  of  the  deepest  green,  unfold  themselves,  —  a  house  and  a  liarn 
dot  the  western  extreniify,  —  hi're  and  there  along  the  wild  beach  lie  the  ribs  of  un- 
lucky traders  half  lnirie(l  in  the  shifting  sand Nearly  the  first  thing  the  vis- 
itor does  is  t',  nidunf  the  llag-stall',  and,  climbing  into  the  crow's-nest,  scan  the  scene. 
The  (Hoan  bounds  him  everywhere,  .^^prcad  east  ami  west,  he  views  the  narrow 
island  in  form  of  a  bow,  as  if  tho  great  Atlantic  waves  had  ln-nt  it  around,  nowhere 
much  above  1  .M.  wide,  2tj  M.  long,  including  the  dry  bars,  and  holding  a  shaUow 
lake  13  M.  long  in  its  centre.    There  it  uU  lies  spread  like  a  map  at  his  feet,  —  grassy 


^rf 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


HuutcSO.      135 


ill  ViV\, 
lur  Nvitli 
ay  Cliar- 
Ufcn>  iind 
iiml  \v«'iC 

Williiim 
him,  tlio 
•rs.    Tlio 


fChod- 
itia.  A 
Canso, 
export 
one  of 
Harbor 


'^^ 


O 


hill  and  sandy  valUy  fading  nway  into  the  dlstanco.  On  tho  foroprround  the  outpont 
iniMi  t;allii|iiii^;  tlu'ir  roiiuli  ponies  into  la-adiinartiTs,  rcciillt'd  l>\  rlu?  \\a,\^  tlyln^  over 
Lid  luiid ;  tlio  West-vnd  iimi.so  of  rctiiKi",  «ith  bread  and  niatdu'S,  firewood  iind 
kettle,  and  directions  to  fnid  water,  and  lieadi|narters  witli  ila^-.stalf  on  the  adjoin- 
ing hill.  Kvery  windy  jieak  or  grassy  knoll  with  a  dead  man's  namo  or  old  shiji's 
tradition, —  IJaker's  llill,  Trotfs  Cove,  ycotehmans  Head,  Freneli  Gardens,  — tra- 
ditionary spot  where  the  p<K»r  eonviets  expiated  their  social  crimes, — the  littlo 
burial-ground  nestling  in  tlie  long  giiuss  of  a  high  hill,  and  consecrated  to  the  re- 
pose of  many  a  sea-tossed  limb  ;  antl  li-3  M.  down  the  shallow  lake,  tlio  Soutli-sidu 
house  and  barn,  and  stalfand  boats  lying  on  the  lake  beside  the  door  9  M.  fartlier 
down,  by  the  aid  of  a  glass,  he  may  view  the  Hag-staff  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  6 
M.  farther  the  Kast-eml  lookout,  with  its  stalf  and  wateh-houso.  Herds  of  wild 
ponies  dot  the  hills,  and  black-duck  and  sheldrakes  are  headinj)  their  young  brooda 
on  the  mirror-like  ponds.  Seals  inuumenible  are  basking  on  Uie  warm  sands,  or 
piii'd  lik(>  Icilges  of  rock  along  the  shores.  The  GUis^^ow's  bow,  the  Maskonemefx 
bUtu,  the  East  Boston's  hulk,  and  the  grinning  ribs  of  the  well-f.istened  Guidt,  aro 
spotting  tlie  sands,  each  with  itn  tale  of  last  adventure,  hardships  passed,  and  toll 
endured.  The  whole  picture  Is  set  iu  a  silver-frosted  frame  of  rolling  surf  and  sea- 
ribbed  sand." 

"  Mounted  upon  his  hardy  pony,  the  solitary  patrol  starts  upon  his  lonely  way. 
lie  rides  up  the  centre  valleys,  ever  and  anon  mounting  a  grassy  hill  to  look  sea- 
ward, reaches  the\Vest-end  bar,  six'culates  ujion  perchance  a  broken  spar,  an  empty 
bottle,  or  a  cask  of  beef  struggling  in  the  iand-wiish,  —  now  fords  the  shallow  lake, 
looking  well  for  his  land-nmge,  to  escape  the  hole  where  IJaker  was  drowned;  and 
coming  on  the  breeding-ground  of  the  countless  birds,  his  iiony's  hoof  with  a  reck- 
less smash  go<>s  crunching  through  a  dozen  eggs  or  callow  young.  He  fairly  puts 
his  pony  to  her  mettle  to  escaix;  the  cloud  of  angry  birds  which,  arising  in  countless 
iUunbiM-8,  dent  his  weather-beaten  tarpaulin  with  their  sharp  bills,  and  snap  his 
pony's  ears,  and  confu.se  him  with  their  sharp,  shrill  cries.  Ten  minutes  more,  and 
ho  is  holding  hard  to  count  the  seals.  There  they  lay,  old  ocean's  tlocks,  resting 
their  wave-tossed  hmbs, — great  ocean  bulls,  and  cows,  and  calves."    (Dr.  J.  B. 

OlLlMN.) 

i'or  over  a  century  SaVde  Island  has  l)con  famous  for  its  wild  horses.  They  num- 
ber perhaps  4(X),  and  are  divided  into  gangs  which  are  under  the  leadership  of  tlio 
old  males.  They  resemble  the  Mexican  or  Ukraine  wild  horses,  in  their  large  heads, 
shaggy  necks,  sloping  quarters,  jiaddliiig  gait,  and  chestnut  or  piebald  colors.  Once 
a  year  the  droves  are  sill  herded  by  daring  horsemen  into  a  large  iiound,  where20or30 
of  the  best  are  taken  out  to  be  .sent  to  Nova  .'^cotia.  After  the  horses  chosen  for  ex- 
portation are  lassoed  and  secured,  the  remainder  aro  turned  loose  again. 


Since  Sable  I.sland  was  first  sighted  by  (\ibot,  in  1497,  it  has  been  an  object  of 
terror  to  marinei'S.  Sever.d  ve.s.sels  of  D'Aiiville's  French  Armada  were  lost  here; 
and  among  the  many  wrecks  in  later  days,  the  chief  have  been  tho.so  of  the  occau 
steamship  OVorjj/Vt  and  the  Freiuli  frigate  L' Af'riniinf. 

In  the  year  loHiJ,  when  .Sir  Humiihix'y  tJilbert  was  returning  from  Newfoundland 
(of  which  he  had  taken  pos.se.ssion  in  the  name  of  the  English  Crown),  his  httle  tleeb 
became  entangled  among  the  shoals  aliout  Sable  Island.  On  one  of  these  outlying 
liars  the  ship  DelinlU  struck  heavily  and  d:ished  her  stern  and  iiuarters  to  piwes. 
The  olHcers  and  over  100  men  were  lost,  and  14  of  the  crew,  after  drifting  about  in  a 
piniiiu-e  for  many  days,  were  tinally  rescued.  The  other  vessels,  the  Squirrel  and  the 
Golden  Hind,  bore  oil  to  sea  and  set  their  course  for  England.  But  when  off  the 
A»ires  the  Squirrel  wiis  sorely  tos.sed  by  a  tempest  (being  of  only  10  tons'  burden), 
and  upon  her  deck  was  seen  Sir  llumiihrey  Gilbert  reading  a  book.  As  she  swept 
past  the  Golden  Hind,  the  lirave  knight  cried  out  to  tlie  captain  of  the  latter : 
*'  Courage,  my  lads,  we  are  as  near  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land."  About  midnight  the 
Squirrel  jilunged  heavily  forw.ird  into  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  went  down  with 
all  on  board.  Thus  perished  this  "  resolute  soldier  of  Jesus  Christ,  ....  one  of  the 
noblest  and  best  of  men  in  an  age  of  great  men." 

In  1508  a  futile  attempt  at  colonizing  Sable  Island  was  made  by  "  Le  Sieur  Baron 
de  Ii4.'ri  et  de  St.  .lust,  \k..  mte  de  Gueu."  But  he  left  some  live-stock  hero  that 
afterwards  sjived  many  lives. 

In  the  year  159S  the  Maniuis  de  la  Roche  was  sent  by  Henri  IV.  to  America,  car- 
rying 200  cuuricts  Ixom  the  French  prisons.    Ho  determined  to  found  a  sottlcmcut 


13G      Route  31. 


NEW  GLASGOW. 


ill 


1 


r    ; 


i         :^ 

ft.r         .ij 


1 1  ii; 


on  f^ablo  Island,  nnd  left  40  of  his  iiirii  there  to  rommenro  the  work.  Poon  nflcr, 
Do  la  UocIk!  whs  Uncvd  by  htrcss  of  f^tonii  to  ri'tiirn  to  l-'rance,  iiliiiiiiloiiiiij;  tiit-HO 
unfortiuiiitc  loloiiistrt.  Uitliout  fo  d.  clotiiih^',  or  wooij,  they  nulVfnd  intensely, 
until  i)artial  relief  wa.s  hrouf^iit  by  the  wrccUiiiKof  a  i'liiich.-^hipoii  the  island.  For 
Beveii  yrars  they  dwelt  in  lints  bniit  of  wreekid  timber,  dressed  in  senl-skins,  and 
living  on  llsh.  Then  Kiuff  Ibinl  IV,  rent  ont  a  ship  under  Chedotel,  and  the  12 
survivors,  piunt,  squalid,  and  long-bearded,  were  carried  back  toFrancc,  where  they 
were  pardoned  and  rewarded. 

An  attempt  was  made  about  the  nnddle  of  the  iGth  century  to  colonize  Cnpe  Rro- 
ton  in  the  interests  of  Spain,  but  the  fleet  that  was  trausportiug  the  t^pauiards  unj 
their  property  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  siuble  l»land. 

31.    S^  John  and  Halifax  to  Fictou. 

By  the  Pictou  7'vanch  iiuilway,  which  diverges  from  the  Intercolonial  Ilailwny  at 
Truro. 

Stations.  —  S^  John  to  Pictou.  St.  J.ihn  to  Truro,  215  M.  ;  Vallev,  219; 
Union,  224;  Uiversdale,  228;  West  River,  2iH;\  (jllenpirry,  243;  Hopewell,  250; 
Stellarton,  255;  New  (liasgow,  2u8  ;  Pictou  Landing,  20(; :  St.ambo.it  Wharf,  2»)7. 

Stations. —  llalijnx  to  Pictou.  Halifax  to  Truro,  til  .M .  ;  Valley,  t>i") ;  Union, 
70;  Uiversdale,  74  ;  West  Uiver,  82 ;  fJlengarrv,  81» ;  Iloiwwell,  96  ;  Stellarton,  101 ; 
New  Ula.-<gow,  104  ;  I'ictou  Lauding,  112  ;  Steamboat  Wharf,  113. 

St.  John  to  Truro,  bcc  Routes  16  nnd  17. 

Halifax  to  Truro,  see  l.'oute  17  (reversed). 

The  train  runs  II.  from  Triir<),  and  soon  after  leaving  the  onvironp,  enters 
a  comparatively  broken  and  imintere.-ting  region.  On  the  1.  are  the  roll- 
ing foot-hills  of  the  Cobcquid  Iiange,  nnd  the  villey  of  the  Salmon  IMver 
is  followed  b;  several  insignificant  forest  station>.  Jiiversdale  is  surrounded 
by  a  pleasant  diversity  of  hill-set  ii'rv,  and  has  a  spool-factory  and  a  con- 
siderable lumber  trade.  14  M.  to  the  X.  is  the  tin-iving  Scottish  settlement 
of  Earltown.  Beyond  West  River  the  train  reaches  (jkngnrry,  which  is 
the  station  for  the  Scottish  villages  of  New  Lairg  aiul  (Jairloch.  IlopewtU 
(Hopewell  Hotel)  has  small  woollen  and  spool  factories;  nnd  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  line  approaches  the  banks  of  the  l',;i  r  River. 

Stdlnrton  is  the  station  for  the  great  Albion  Mines,  which  are  con- 
trolled (for  the  most  part)  by  the  General  Tdining  Association,  of  London. 
There  is  a  populous  village  here,  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  connected 
with  the  mines.  The  coal-seams  extend  over  several  miles  of  area,  nnd 
are  of  remarkable  thickness.  They  are  being  worked  in  several  pits,  and 
would  doubtless  return  a  great  rcveinie  in  case  of  the  removal  of  the  re- 
strictive trade  regulations  of  the  United  States.  In  the  year  18G4  over 
200,000  tons  of  coal  were  raised  from  these  mines. 

New  Glasgow  (tliree  inns)  is  a  town  of  2,500  inhabitants,  largely  en- 
gaged in  shipbuilding  nnd  having  other  manufactures,  including  foundries 
and  tanneries.  It  is  favorably  situated  on  the  Kast  River,  and  derives 
considerable  importance  from  being  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Royal 
mail-stages  for  Antigonish,  the  Strait  of  Canso,  and  Cape  lireton;  also  for 
Guysborough,  Wine  Harbor,  nnd  Sherbrooke. 

The  train  now  descends  by  the  Enst  River  to  Fisher's  Clrnnt,  opposite 
the  town  of  Pictou,  to  which  the  passengers  arc  conveyed  by  a  steam 


r 

i 


•> 


t 


i:f 


T 


ricTou. 


Haute  31.       137 


T 


■I 


4 


ferry-boat.  If  tlio  travelloi-  is  about  to  take  the  steamsliip  ho  must  remain 
on  tli'^  train,  wiiicli  runs  down  1  M.  farther  to  her  wharf. 

PictOU  (St.  Lawrence  Hull)  is  a  woaithy  and  fi'nrishiiif?  town  on  tho 
Gulf  shore  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  has  ahout  .'},'»00  inlialiitant<,  with  several 
cluirchos,  a  masonic  liali,  and  a  wooUly  paper.  Tlu'  \'\\h\>  ■  l)uil(liii;T»  of 
Pict>  u  County  are  also  located  hero,  and  tho  academy  is  tin-  chief  educa- 
tional establishment.  The  harbor  is  the  finest  on  the  S.  .shores  of  the  (Julf 
of  St.  Lawrenee,  and  can  accommodate  ships  of  suiy  burden,  having  a 
(U'l'tli  of  5-7  fathoms.  The  town  occupies  a  commanding  position  on  a 
hillside  over  a  small  cove  on  the  N.  side  of  tli  harbor,  and  nourly  oppo- 
site, tho  basin  is  divided  into  tiiree  arms,  into  which  flow  tho  East,  Middle, 
and  West  Rivers.  On  tho  Last  River  arc  the  shipping  whar\es  of  tho 
Albion  and  the  International  (Joal  Companies,  whence  immense  quantities 
f>f  coal  were  exported  in  the  jialmy  days  before  the  I'nited  States  pmiished 
Canatla  for  aiding  her  rebel  States,  by  repealing  the  Reciprocity  Treaty. 

Pictou  has  a  largo  coasting  trade;  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding;  and  has 
n  marine-railway.  It  has  also  tobacco-factories,  carding-nnlls,  several 
(s:iw  and  grist  mills,  a  foundr r,  and  three  or  four  tanneries.  Hut  the  chief 
business  is  connected  with  the  ailjacent  mines  and  tho  exi)ortation  of  coal, 
and  with  the  largo  freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity. 

stages  leave  Piotnii  several  times  weekly,  fur  River  .lohn,  Tatamajrouehe,  Wallace, 
I'uswaah,  and  Amherst  (sec  pa^e  81).  Steaiiiships  leave  (^opposite)  I'iotnu  forCli.ar- 
lotretown,  Suininer<i(li',  and  SUediao,  ou  Montlay,  \Ve  i-sdas ,  ,nid  Friday,  on  tho 
arrival  of  the  Halifax  trair*  (see  lloute  44) :  also  for  the  »,.ilf  jiorts  and  Quchec, every 
Tue.sdav  at  7  a.m.,  and  alternate  Fridays  at  1  p.  M.  (se«!  Route  (I'i);  also  for  Port  Hood 
and  the  Magdalen  Islandii  (see  Route  41)) ;  uud  for  Hawkesbury  and  the  Strait  of 
Canso. 

After  the  divine  Glooscap  (.see  page  10(5)  had  left  Xewfuiui  land,  where  ho  conferred 
upon  the  loons  the  powor  of  wcinlly  eryin;:;  when  tliey  ncnlcd  his  aid,  li>'  landed  nt 
I'ict  I  (from  Piktoolc,  an  Indian  word  meaninK"  Itubhlin^,"  or  "' Oas-e.xplfxUnp," 
and  referred  to  the  ebullitions  of  the  water  near  the  ;;r<'at  coal-beds).  IIen>  he 
created  the  tortoise  tribe,  in  this  wIm;  :  Great  festivals  and  frames  were  made  in  his 
honor  by  the  Tnilian.s  of  Pict(»ok,but  he  i  ho.sc  to  dwell  with  a  homely,  lazy,  and 
despised  old  b:i  lulor  named  Mikcbickh,  whom,  after  rlothinK  in  hi.s  own  robe  and 
giving;  him  victory  in  the  nanus,  h  initiated  a.s  the  pm^'cnitor  and  king  of  all  the 
tortoises,  ^mokiuK  him  till  his  i  ;it  liccame  brown  and  as  hard  as  bone,  and  then  re- 
ducing his  size  by  a  rude  surgical  ojjcration. 

The  site  of  IMctou  was  occupied  in  ancient  times  by  a  populous  Indian  village, 
and  in  1703  the  French  made  futile  preparations  to  found  a  colon>  here.  In  17i).'», 
200,(X)0  acres  of  land  in  tiiis  vicinity  were  granted  to  a  company" in  I'hiladelplii  i, 
whence  Viands  of  .settlers  came  in  17t!7-71.  Meantime  the  site  of  the  town  ha+l  been 
given  to  an  army  ofllcer,  who  in  turn  sold  it  for  a  hiir>e  and  saddle.  Tho  I'ennsyl- 
yanians  were  disheartened  at  the  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  infertility  of  the 
Boil,  and  no  progress  was  made  in  the  new  colony  until  1773,  when  the  ship  Hector 
arrived  with  180  persons  from  the  Scottish  Iliglilands.  They  were  brought  over  by 
the  Philadelphia  'ompany,  but  when  they  found  that  the  shore  lands  were  all 
taken,  they  refused  to  settle;  on  the;  company's  territory,  and  hence  the  agent  cut 
off  their  sujiply  of  jirovisions.  They  subsisted  on  fish  and  venison,  with  a  little 
flour  from  'I'ruro,  until  the  next  i^pring,  when  tlw'y  sent  a  ship-loud  of  i)iMo-tiniber 
to  Britain,  and  Jilanted  wheat  and  potJitoes.  Soon  alYerwards  they  wen?  joined  by 
15  destitute  families  from  Dumfriesshire  ;  aiul  at  the  close  of  thi"  Itt-volutionai  *  War 
many  dioltanded  soldiers  settled  here  with  their  families.  In  1780  the  Rev.  .lames 
McGregor  came  to  Pictou  and  made  a  home,  and  aa  he  was  a  powerful  preacher  in 


f] 

1     ^ 

1 

1 

* 

1  1 

1      ^ 

1 

I  \ 

;, 

.' 

14    , 


l!i    »' 


I 


138      Jioutc32. 


ANTIGONISII. 


fho  Onolic  liinfinnfro,  mnny  lli'xliliinilcrs  from  Hu'  othor  pMi'ts  of  tlic  Piovtnco  innTcil 
lien*,  Mild  iifw  iiiiiiii}:riitiiiiis  nniNdl  tVniii  Scotlaiid.  In  IT^H  tlu'  town  wan  ••oni- 
inciK-cil  on  ito  |iri  M-nt  >ili-  )>>  liiiicim  I'attcrsoii,  iiihI  in  I7!l2  it  wm.-^  niailt-  ii  ciiirc- 
town,  (iri-at  t|nantiti(s  of  Innilitr  wt-ii' i-xporti'd  to  llrilain  iictwt'i-n  lHi)r>  and  1^20, 
dnrin^c 'lir  iH-riod  ot  KiirniMaii  <(invtd>iiin,  wlirn  tlic  llaitii'  iioitM  mxtc  rlcifd,  and 
\vlnli>  the  ltriti.>^li  iiav\  \vms  tlir  main  lio|i(>  of  thi'  nation.  'I'lic  |>ia('*>  wart  captured  in 
1777  liy  III!  American  piivat<«r.  Coal  wa.s  iliscovcrcd  liciv  in  17!W,  hut  tin*  t'Xporta- 
tion  vas  Humll  until  l>'2~,  whvu  tlic-  (it  ix-rul  Mining  A.-'r'ociation  of  Lundon  bt'(;,'in 
opcrafionH. 

.1  \V.  DiiWHon.  I<[i.  1)  ,  F.  11  S.,  was  liorn  at  Piotou  in  1H20,  and  pradnatcd  nt  tliii 
ridvcrnity  of  Kilinlmr^'li  in  1H4().  llo  htndiid  and  travciU'd  with  Sir  CliarleH  h.X'li, 
imd  lias  licronif  one  of  the  lfudfr.s  anionj^  tliL'Cluiftian  sficnti.st.x.  IILs^ivutj-st  work 
wan  till!  "  Acadian  (li olofrv."'  Jf'or  tlic  pust  20  jcurs  ho  1ms  beeu  I'riuciiHil  of  tiio 
McUlll  Colkye,  ut  Montreul. 

32.   St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  Cape 

Breton. 

Hi/  t/ie  2cay  of  the  land,  thvoiiyh  AntUjonlsh. 

(Compare  also  pa>;«'  12.)  The  Uoynl  niail-stajje  leaves  New  (Jlac^^w  (see  page  13<)) 
daily,  on  arrival  t>f  the  morning;  train  from  Ifalil'a.x, — at  about  123(1  v.m.,  —  and 
runs  K.  to  tlie  Stmit  of  Canso,  conneetiiin  witli  otiicr  staj^es  for  Sherbrooko,  (.hn;-- 
borouKli,  aiicj  all  parts  of  Cain-  Ih'eton.  This  route  is  .>^erved  by  a  lino  of  st  >;e- 
coaehe.s  whii  h  aiv  said  to  bt;  "second  to  none  on  tlie  continent,"'  though  these  e.x- 
rellent  conveyances  are  exchanp'd  at  Antinoidsh  for  less  couifortjiblo  vehic..  s. 
I'asstiiKers  take  snppt-r  at  Antijronish,  ride  on  all  nijrht,  and  reach  the  Strait  of 
Canso  before  dawn,  (lentlenieu  who  are  planning  a  summer  trip  will  see  that  this 
mode  (d'  travel  is  utterly  unsuitcd  for  an  element  in  a  |ileasure-tour,  and  that  it  i.s 
nearly  impracticable  for  ladies,  at  least,  to  endure  Hucli  a  ninht-journey.  The  at- 
tra<tioiis  and  di.seomfortsof  this  route  an?  adnurably  drawn  in  Charles  Dudley  War- 
ner's "  IJaddeck  ;  nntl  that  Sort  of  Thing  "  (Chapter  III.). 

FarcH.  —  Halifax  to  Antigonish,  $.');  Cuysborough,  §6 ;  Port  llawkcsbury, 
S  7  25  (exclufivo  of  ferriage  ucrous  tho  Strait  of  Ctiuso) ;  St.  IVter's,  §9.26  ;  Syduey, 
S12. 

l>lMtaiiron.  —  New  Ola.sgow  to  French  Hivcr,  15  M.  ;  Marshy  Hope,  25  ;  Antigo- 
ni^^h,.'W;  Triu-adie,  58;  I'ort  Mulgravo,  74;  Port  lluwkesbury,  75i ;  St.  I'cter'H, 
114 ;  Sydnoy,  H'J. 

Oil  rcac'liing  the  open  country  bovond  New  Glasgow,  the  road  passes  on 
forsovenil  niiles  througli  an  nnintercsting  region  of  small  farms  and  recent 
clearing.^.  At  the  crossing  of  the  Sutherland  IJiver,  a  road  diverges  to  the 
N.  K.,  leading  to  Men'jomish,  a  shipbuilding  hamlet  on  the  coast,  with  asafo 
and  well-sheltered  harbor.  In  this  vicinity  are  iron  and  coal  deposits,  tho 
latter  of  wliich  arc  worked  by  the  Merigomish  Coal  Alining  Company,  Avith 
u  capital  of  $  400,000,  IJoyond  the  hamlet  at  the  crossing  of  French  River, 
—  "  whicli  may  iiavc  sccji  better  days,  and  will  probably  see  worse,"  — 
the  road  ascends  a  long  ridge  which  overlooks  the  Piedmont  Valley  to  tho 
N.  E.  Thonco  it  descends  through  a  sufficiently  dreary  country  to  tho 
relay-house  at  Aforshi/  Hope. 

"  Tlio  sun  has  s«>t  ivhen  we  conic  thundering  down  into  tho  pretty  Catholic  village 
of  AntlKunisli,  th  >  most  home-liUe  place  wc  have  .seen  on  the  island.  The  twin 
Ht(me  towers  of  the  u\  Hnislied  cathedral  loom  up  large  in  the  fading  light,  and  tho 
bishojj's  j)alacc  on  the    ill,  the  home  of  the  Hlshop  of  Arlchat,  appears  to  be  an  im- 

jioslng  white  barn  with    Many  staring  window,s People  were  loitering  in  tho 

street;  the  young  beaux  j;  ilng  up  and  down  with  the  belles,  after  tho  leisurely 
maimer  in  youth  and  summer.    Perhaps  they  wero  students  from  St.  Xavier  Ccl- 


I 


V9 


ANTIGOXISII. 


Ituttc  32.      130 


:'!'  iiiovcil 

II  sliirc- 
lit!  isiio, 
'•<»'il,  mill 
I'tiirnl  ill 
t'xpordi- 
>u  ln't;.iii 


I 

1 


1 


I((»o,  or  vl^ltinir  pillant*  from  flu.VHl)orou(;Ii.  Tlicy  look  Into  tho  po«t-o(!lce  and  tho 
liinr'v  !*tori'.  Tlu'.v  >tr<(ll  ami  tiikc  tlirir  litHo  iiroviini.il  i>lta.>*iin',  ami  maki- lovo, 
for  all  wi"  can  mi-c,  as  if  .\iiti;;niii'li  wcri'  a  part  of  tlif  worl.l.  How  tlu-y  niuot  l(M>k 
down  on  Marshv  IIo|m'  and  AdiHiiKtoii  t'orkw  and  Tracudie  I   What  a  cbaruiinK  pUu-o 

to  live  iu  Ih  tills  I  •■    (llADDECK.) 

Antigonishi  (two  good  iiuis),  the  csipital  of  tho  county  of  tho  snino 
iiiiiiH',  is  situatoil  at  tho  hoad  of  a  lonj;  ami  slioal  liarbor,  near  St. 
Gforgc's  Hay.  Some  shiplmililiii};  is  done  hero,  and  many  carj^ocs  of 
cattle  and  butter  arc  sent  lieiico  to  Newfoundland,  (^n  the  K.  shore  of  tho 
harbor  arc  valuable  deposits  of  gypsum,  which  arc  fcnt  away  on  coasting- 
vessels.  Tho  inhabitants  of  the  village  and  the  adjacent  country  aro  of 
Scottish  descent,  and  their  unwavering  industry  has  made  Antigonish  a 
])rosperous  and  pleasant  town.  Tho  Collet/e  of  St.  Francis  Xaritr  is  tho 
l)i()cesan  Seminary  of  the  Franco-Scottish  [)ioc(we  of  Arichat,  and  is  tho 
residence  of  tho  Hishop.  It  is  a  (.'atholic  institution,  and  has  six  teachers. 
The  Oithtilrnlof  Ht.  Slninn  was  begun  in  1807,  and  was  consecrated  Sep- 
tember 13,  1874,  by  a  rontifu-al  High  Mass,  nt  which  7  bishops  and  30 
]tricsts  af  i-.ted.  It  is  in  the  I{oman  Uasilica  style,  170  by  70  ft.  in  area, 
and  is  buii',  of  blue  limestone  and  brick.  On  the  facade,  between  the  tall 
S(piaro  towern  '  To  Gaelic  inscrii)tion,  Tltjhe  Dhe  ("the  House  of  God"). 
Tho  ar -he  I  /oof  V  sujiported  by  14  Corinthian  colunnis,  and  the  interior 
lias  ir.it  ier(iu-  ">  "iii  V)ws  of  stained  glass.  The  costly  chancel-window  rop- 
'•oscii's  t'hrl!  t,  t  •'  Virgin  Mary,  and  St.  Joseph.  There  is  a  largo  organ, 
r  .'  iVm.'  1  cltiT  .  >f  bells  named  in  honor  of  St.  Joseph  and  the  Scottish 
saims,  !si».*\'»,  Coluniba,  and  Margaret,  (iueen  of  Scotland. 

Stiijjca  run  from  Antlfjonish  S.  to  Shorbrooko  and  S.  E.  to  fluysborough  (boo 
Routo  'jy).  N.  W.  of  the  villajic  an;  the  bold  and  picturcscine  highlands  known  an 
th(!  AiitlKoiiiHh  Mt«.,  pi'ojectinji?  from  the  ponenil  line  of  the  coast  about  Ifj  M. 
N.  into  the  (iiilf.  They  are,  in  some  places,  1,()(K)  ft.  hi^fli,  and  have  a  strong  and 
well-marked  mountainous  character.  Semi-weekly  .xtaj^es  run  N.  from  Aiitij;oni.'<h 
to  Monistoivn  and  Cape  ihor^e,  resju-ctively  lO  and  IM  M.  distant.  8-10  M.  J(I.  of 
the  latter  is  the  bold  iiromontory  of  C»l)*)  St.  Oef>rKt>,  on  which,  400  ft.  abovo 
tho  sea,  is  a  powerful  n^volvinj?  white  linlit,  which  is  visible  for  25  M.  at  sea.  From 
this  point  a  road  runs  8.  \\.  to  Malii;iiaittCorf,  which  is  also  accessible  by  a  roman- 
tic road  through  tho  hills  from  Antigonish.  This  is  a  small  sea.sidu  hamlet,  which 
derives  its  name  from  tho  fact  that  II.  IJ.  M.  fri);ato  Mtiliiiiiant  wa-s  once  caught  in 
these  narrow  watcn'  durinj^  a  lieavy  storm,  and  was  run  ashore  hero  in  order  to 
avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  iron-bound  coiist  beyond.  4-5  M.  Iwyoud  tho 
Cove  is  ArlsalK«  ^  romantically  situated  settlement  of  Scottish  Cathoiics,  who 
named  their  new  homo  in  memory  of  Arisaig,  in  tho  W'estorn  Highlands.  It  lias  a 
long  wooden  iiier,  under  who.so  lee  is  tho  only  harbor  and  shelter  against  cost-winds 
between  Autigouish  and  Merigouish. 

The  Canso  stage  leaves  Antigonish  after  dark,  and  after  running  9  M. 
out  and  crossing  the  South  River,  reaches  Poinqiut  Forks,  a  Franco- 
Scottish  Catholic  village  of  400  inhabitants.  4-5  M.  X.  is  another  seaside 
hamlet.  The  new  Catholic  Church  of  the  Holy  Cross  was  consecrated  at 
Pomquet  in  1874.  The  next  station  is  Traoadie,  a  French  village  of  1,800 
inhabitants,  situated  on  a  small  harbor  near  St.  George's  Bay.    There  is  a 

^  AntiyonUh,— accent  on  tho  last  syllabic.  It  is  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "the  River  of 
Fish." 


110      Route  J2. 


TilACADIE. 


I> 


woaltliy  monastcn*  lioro,  pcrtainin;?  to  the  nnstoro  order  of  the  Trappists. 
Most  of  tlie  monks  arc  from  r)cl;^iniii.  TlK-rt'  is  also  u  Coiivciit  of  Sisters 
of  Charity.  Tlie  people  of  Tracadio  beloiip  to  the  old  Acatiiaii  race,  whoso 
sad  and  romantic  history  is  alluded  to  on  pap;c^  lo8  and  113.  "v\nd  now 
wc  passed  throuj^h  another  French  settlement,  Tracadic,  and  apain  the 
Norman  kirtle  and  petticoat  of  the  pastoral,  Idack-oyed  Kvangelinc  ap- 
pear, and  then  i)ass  like  a  day-dream."   (C«)Z/.i:ns.) 

'I'he  road  is  now  narrowed  between  the  hills  and  St.  Georj^o's  Bay,  and 
it  is  beyond  niidnijiht.  15nt  the  exhausted  traveller  cannot  sleep  on  this 
rufTf^ed  track,  and  can  only  watch  the  stars  or  the  moon  and  think  how 
"these  splendors  burn  and  this  panorama  passes  night  after  ni^lit  down 
at  the  end  of  Nova  Scotia,  ami  all  for  the  stage-driver,  dozing  along  on  his 
box,  from  Antigonish  to  the  Strait." 

At  Port  Mulgrave  the  Strait  of  Canso  is  reached,  and  passengers  bound 
for  Cape  Breton  are  here  ferried  aci'oss. 

The  Strait  of  Canso,  see  page  142. 


rm 


It; 


it'; 

m 


T 


CAPE    BRETON. 


bound 


I? 


Tho  island  of  Capo  Drctnii  is  about  100  M.  lonp  by  80  M.  wide,  nnd  has 
an  area  of  2,000,000  acres,  of  which  800,000  acres  consist  of  hikv»s  and 
swamic*.  Tlic  S.  piirt  is  low  ami  pojiorally  h'vcl,  ?/ut  tho  N.  portion  is 
very  irroirnlar,  and  leads  otfiiito  uii(>xpIo'-'>d  highlands.  The  chief  navurai 
peculiarities  of  the  ishind  are  the  Syiliiey  coal-fields,  which  cover  250 
square  miles  on  the  E.  coast,  au<l  the  Hras  d'Or,  a  preat  lake  of  salt  water, 
raiuifyiii^  throufrh  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  coiuniunirating  with  tho 
sea  by  narrow  channels.  The  exTcrior  coast  line  is  275  M.  long,  and  is 
provided  with  <;ood  hnrbors  on  the  K.  and  S.  shores. 

The  chief  exjjorts  of  Cape  Breton  are  coal  and  fish,  to  the  United  States; 
finilier,  to  I!n;_dand;  and  farm-produce  and  live-stock  to  Newfoundland. 
The  connnandlM)^  jiositinii  of  the  i-land  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Canadas, 
and  the  naval  power  holdiiifj  these  shores  could  control  or  crush  the  com- 
merce of  the  (Julf.  The  upland  soils  arc  of  good  quality,  and  produce 
valuable  crops  of  cereals,  potatoes,  and  smaller  vejretables. 

The  Ivlitor  trusts  that  the  followiupj  extract  from  Brown's  "  ITistory  of 
the  l>liuid  of  Cape  Breton"  (London  :  18t;9)  will  bo  of  interest  to  the 
touri-<t  :  "  Tho  smiuners  of  Cape  Breton,  say  from  May  to  ()ctf)ber,  may 
idialleuKe  cornjiarison  with  those  of  any  country  within  tho  temperate 
n'l^iftns  of  tho  world.  During  all  that  timo  there  aro  perhaps  not  more 
than  ton  fofj.sy  days  in  any  part  of  the  island,  except  along  the  southern 
coast,  between  the  (iut  of  Canso  and  Scatari.  Bright  sunny  days,  with 
l»almy  westerly  winds,  follow  each  other  in  succession,  week  after  week, 
while  the  mid<lay  heats  arc  often  tempered  by  cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes. 
Of  rain  there  is  seldom  enough;  the  growing  crops  more  often  suffer  from 
too  little  than  too  much.'' 

"  To  tho  tourist  that  loves  nature,  and  who,  for  the  manifold  beauties  by 
hill  and  shore,  by  woods  and  waters,  is  happy  to  mako  small  sacrifices  of 
personal  comfort,  I  would  commend  Cape  Breton.  Your  fashionable, 
whose  main  ol)ject  is  company,  ilress,  and  frivolous  ])!easure  with  tho  gay, 
nuil  whoso  only  tolerable  stopping-place  is  the  grand  hotel,  Imd  better 
content  himself  with  reading  of  this  island."     {N'oni.i:. ) 

Tho  name  of  the  island  is  tlerived  from  that  of  its  K.  capo,  which  was 
given  in  honor  of  its  discovery  by  Breton  mariners.  In  1713  tho  French 
authorities  bestowed  upon  it  tho  new  name  of  L'hlc  lioijaU,  during  the 


■  i.  ■ 


■i:  ! 


ir     ■:! 


h 

1    1 

Mi 


112      Route  33.        THE  STRAIT  OF  CANSO. 

rolfm  of  Loni-;  XTV.  At  tins  timo,  nftor  tlir  rocsinn  of  Armlia  to  tlio  Hrit- 
isli  Crown,  iiiiiuy  of  its  iiili{il)it:iiit>  cniif^ratcil  to  Cape  Hrctoii  ;  iiiul  in 
August,  1714,  tho  fortress  (>f  I.ouishourfr  was  founilo.l.  Durinj;  tlic  noxt 
Jialf-cNMitury  ornirrcd  tlie  t»'rril»Io  wars  hotwoon  Franco  anil  (Iroat  Britain, 
wlio^e  chief  iiiciilt'iits  woro  the  sicpos  of  Loui^lionrcj  ainl  the  (uiai  dfinoli- 
tion  of  tliat  rcdonlitalilt'  fortress.  In  l"t!')  tliis  i>lanil  was  aiinoxi'il  to  tho 
I'rovint-e  of  Nova  SiMttia.  In  1784  it  was  crcctotl  into  a  scpanitc  IVovinco, 
anil  fontinuod  ns  such  until  1S20,  wlicn  it  was  rcannoxod  to  N'ovu  Scotia. 
In  1S15  Cape  Uroton  had  al'out  10,000  iidiahitants,  hut  in  IsTl  its  jiopnla- 
tion  anv'untcd  to  7i>/>03,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  were  IVoni  tho  Scot- 
tish Highlands. 

33.   The  Strait  of  Canso. 

The  Cut  of  Canso,  or  (as  it  is  now  jnoro  generally  ealleil)  the  Strait  of 
Canso,  is  a  picturesipie  ])assape  which  connects  the  Atlantic  Ocean  with 
tho  Cnlf  of  St.  Lawrence,  an<l  separates  the  l-^land  of  (^ape  Breton  from 
the  shores  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  lianks  are  hiirh  and  mountainous,  covered 
Avith  spruce  ami  other  everfrn-ens,  and  a  succession  of  small  white  ham- 
lets lines  the  coves  on  cither  side.  This  prand  aveniie  of  commerce 
peems  worthy  of  its  jtoetic  appellation  of  "  The  (JoMen  Ciate  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  (lull'."  It  i>  claimed  that  more  kccis  pass  thronph  this  channel 
every  year  than  through  any  other  in  the  world  except  the  Strait  of  (iili- 
riiltar.  It  is  not  oidy  the  shortest  passage  hetween  the  Atlantic  and  the 
(lulf,  l)Ut  has  the  advantage  of  anchorage  in  case  of  contrary  winds  and  had 
weather.  The  shores  are  hold-to  and  free  from  danger  ,id  there  are  sev- 
eral good  anchorages, out  of  tlie  current  and  in  a  modei,,ie  depth  of  water. 
The  stream  of  the  ti<le  usually  sets  (Voin  the  S.,  and  nms  in  great  swirling 
edilies,  luit  is  mtu-h  influenced  hy  the  winds.  The  strait  Is  descrihed  hy 
I)awson  as  "n  narrow  transverse  valley,  excavated  hy  the  currents  of  tho 
dritt  period,"  and  portions  of  its  shores  are  of  the  carliojiifcrous  epoch. 

Tlio  Sfmlt  of  Canso  ii  frtvcrscil  liy  s<>vpnil  Hmnsninl  sniliii)»-Ti'ss(l»'  every  venr.iind 
nl'«i>  tiy  tiie  l;ir(re  stetiiners  nt'tlie  lln^tiiM  Mini  Cnlniiiiil  Stiam.«lii|i  ('iiiii|iiiiiy ,  mill  (as 
'.:ir  US  Tort  ll:i\\ke>lMir.\ )  liy  tlie  ve.«.-els  <if  the  I'.  K.  I.  Ste  Mil  Navipiliuii  ('(.iiipaiiy . 

"  ."^o  vitli  niiewed  aiili"  i|i:itiiins  we  riile  on  towanl  tiie  stniit  'nf  uiirivnlleil 
loniity.'  tUaf  traveili-rs  ^av  •  Mirpa^vcs  nii>  tiling'  in  Aiiieiiia.'  And,  iieli  el.Caiiseaii 
«uii  have  my  feelile  f<-*timoM\  in  ediirtnnalioii.  It  is  ii  praii.l  marine  hi^'lnvay,  liav- 
init  steeji  hil!«  on  Hie  Tape  Hretoii  Island  ^il|e,  and  jiitty  inotintaiiis  on  the  other 
slum* :  II  fill!.  Iinvul,  mile-wide  spare  hetweeii  them  ;  a»:irrtaeliinK,froin  end  to  cud, 
flftifn  miles,  fnaii  the  Atlantic  to  tiio  (iulf  of  St.  I.awren 'O."     (('u/.ZENS.) 

Vessels  from  the  S  ,  hound  f<ir  the  Strait  of  Canso,  first  approach  tho 
Xova-Scotian  shores  near  dijte  Cnt!»o  (-ee  page  l.'U),  whose  lights  nnd 
islands  are  roimded,  atid  the  course  1"  s  hot  ween  N.  W.  and  W.  X.  W. 
towards  Kddy  Point.  If  a  fog  prevails,  the  steam-whistle  on  Cranlierry 
Island  Avill  he  heard  giving  out  its  notes  of  warning,  soundiiig  for  s  seconds 
in  each  mimite,  and  heard  for  20  M.  with  tho  »vind,  for  ir»  M.  In  calm 


I 


*  m 


•rf 


I 


rORT  HASTINGS. 


Route  33.      143 


ho  Rrit- 

mikI  ill 

lio  iioxt 

I'litiiiii, 

li'llldli- 

to  tlio 
roviiu'o, 

Scntiil. 
I>01>ul;i- 

ic  Scot- 


i 


tr» 


wcnthor,  nivl  r.-  8  M.  in  stormy  wouthor  and  n,2;ainst  the  wind.  On  the  1. 
is  CMu'dabucto  Usiy,  strotcliing  in  to  (Jnysboron;,'!!,  lined  ftlonfj  its  S.  shore 
by  hills  3-700  ft.  iiigh;  uml  on  the  r.  the  IsK'  Muilaino  is  soon  Mpproaohod. 
28-;j0  M.  bcvoiid  ("iipc  Can-^o  lliP  vessel  passes  l-AUhj  Point,  on  whieh  aro 
two  fixed  wliite  li;,'hts  (visible  >>  M  ).  (in  the  starboard  beam  is  .lanvria 
Island,  beyond  which  is  the  broad  estnary  of  Habitants  Bmj.  On  the 
Cape-Brett)n  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Bear  I'oiiit,  and  on  the  1.  arc  Melford 
Creek  (with  its  ehnroh),  Steep  Creek,  and  Tirato's  Cove.  The  hamlets  of 
I'lirl  Muljii-ave  and  I'ort  Hawkesbnry  are  now  seen,  nearly  opposite  each 
other,  ami  half-way  up  the  strait. 

Port  Mulgrave  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  about  400  iidiabitants,  on  tho 
Xova-Seotia  side  of  the  strait.  It  is  cngaped  in  the  lislicries,  and  has  a 
harbor  which  remains  open  nil  the  year  round.  Gold-lx'arim:  (piartz  is 
found  in  the  vicinity;  and  l)old  hills  tower  above  the  shore  for  a  lon«,'  dis- 
tance. A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  this  j)oint  and  Tort  Hawkesbnry, 
l.i  M.  distant. 

Port  Hawkegbury  ( Ilmrkf^lmrij  Ifntd,  comfortable ;  Acadia  Hotel)  is  n 
vill:i;;e  of  about  7oO  inhai)itants,  on  the  Cape-lJreton  side  of  the  strait.  It 
is  situated  on  Ship  Harlior,  a  snug  haven  for  vessels  of  10-ft.  draught, 
markeil  by  n  fixeil  red  light  on  Stapletoti  Point.  This  is  the  best  harbor 
on  the  strait,  and  has  very  good  hnldiiig-grouiid.  The  village  is  of  a  scat- 
tercil  and  lialf-tinished  iippearance,  and  has  two  small  cluirchcs.  Tliero 
are  several  wharves  hen>,  which  are  visitcil  i)y  the  lUtston  and  tho  rriiico 
ICdward  I^laml  steamers,  and  other  lines.  Stages  run  hence  to  Sydney, 
Aricliat,  and  \Ve>t  Hay,  on  the  Bras  d'Or;  and  a  railway  has  been  sur- 
veyed to  the  latter  point.  The  I'an!  from  I'ort  Hawkesbnry  to  Charlotte- 
town,  by  the  ve-sels  of  the  P.  K.  1.  Steam  Navigation  Company,  is  $3  50. 

Port  Hastings  (more  generally  known  as  Plaster  Cove)  is  about  4  M. 
above  Port  Hawke-bury,  on  tho  Cape-Breton  shore,  and  is  built  on  tho 
binds  over  a  small  harbor  in  which  is  a  (iovernment  wharf.  From  this 
peint  the  Capc-llrcton  mails  are  di,stri!)nte(l  through  the  island  by  means 
ofiiiC  stage-lines.  I'lie  village  is  alxait  the  size  of  Port  Hawkesbnry,  and 
has  a  lucrative  count ry -trade,  besides  u  large  exportation  of  lish  and  cat- 
tle to  Newfoundlniiil  ainl  tiic  I'lnted  Stales.  It  derives  its  chief  interest 
from  lieing  the  point  where  the  Atlantic-l'able  Company  transfers  its  mes- 
»iages,  received  from  all  parts  of  Kuropo  and  tlelivered  under  the  sea,  to 
the  H'estern  Union  Telegraph  Compiiay,  by  which  the  titlings  are  sent 
away  through  the  Homiiiioii  and  tlu!  rriited  States.  The  telegraph-onico 
is  in  a  long  two-story  buildii'g  near  the  strait,  and  '20- 30  men  are  em- 
jdoyed  therein.  The  h(»tel  at  this  villiige  has  been. justly  execrated  in  sev- 
eral books  of  travel,  but  occupies  a  noble  situation,  overlooking,  from  a 
high  blnlV,  the  Strait  of  Cunso  for  several  miles  to  tho  S.  K.  Near  this 
building  is  tho  consulate  of  the  United  State?,  over  which  floats  tho  flag 
of  the  IJcpublic. 


[;   I 


/;t 


^■''     I 


144      72o./^e  23. 


CANSO. 


Nearly  opposite  Port  Ilnstlnps  is  tlie  l)okl  and  sliappy  headland  of  Cope 
Porcupine,  attaining  a  height  of  G40  ft.,  and  contracting  the  strait  to  it3 
narrowest  part.  Tlic  stream  now  widens  slowly,  with  lG-20  fathoms  of 
water,  and  at  its  N.  entrance  (W.  side)  the  steamer  passes  a  lighthonsc, 
vhich  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  110  ft.  above  tlic  water,  and 
visible  from  Cape  St.  George  to  Tort  Hood. 

Canso  W11.S  in  the  oiirlior  d.iya  called  Canipsfnu,  or  Cnn^rnu,  nnil  tlio  word  is 
aorivcd  from  tlic  liuliaii  CdVisoke,  which  siiriiilics  "  faciri};  the  fmwniiip  clirTs.''  U 
is  also  {lainicd  that  tlic  iiainc  is  ih  rived  IVoi'i  the  Spanish  word  (lanso,  si^nifvinK 
"Kfose,"  in  allusion  to  tlu-  jrreat  Hocks  of  wild  p-eso  so:i\efinies  seen  hero.  Hero 
tlu>  Mieinac  traditions  locate  the  nmrvellous  transit  of  tho  divine  (iloosi'sip  (^■ee  paRc 
lot)),  wiio  was  stoppi'd  by  these  deei)  waters  while  on  his  way  to  attack  a  niiglity  wiz- 
ard in  Newfoundland.  Ho  sununoncd  from  the  sea  a  whale,  who  bore  him  ueros.s 
the  strait,  like  a  new  .Vrion,  and  landed  him  on  the  Hreton  sliore.s. 

For  many  years  the  Strait  of  Canso  was  culled  the  I'dssniir  de  Fronsar,  on  all  the 
old  V'rench  maps  and  charts,  in  honor  of  the  Sieur  d(!  Fronsae,  the  able  aiid  enter- 
prising? Governor  of  «'a]ie  Ihcton  ;  and  in  L'llS,  over  a  century  Viefore  Plynionth  was 
founded,  it  was  visiti-d  by  the  Itaron  de  Lery,  who  designed  forniinf;  a  fottlement  on 
the.se  shores,  and  left  a  considerable  nnndier  of  8wine  and  cattle  here.  Savaletfe 
frequenteil  this  vicinity,  for  thi'  purp(jses  of  fishinir.  from  the  yi'ar  ladi-j :  and  in 
mA  De  Monts  found  hero  four  lia.Miuo  ships  (from  St.  Jean  de  Luz)  tnidinn  with 
the  Indians.  Three  years  later  a  Dutch  vessel  entered  ("anso,  and  excited  the  terri- 
ble hostility  of  the  Indians  by  rilliiiL;  the  t^raves  of  their  dead  in  order  to  strip  off 
the  beaver-skins  in  whi(  h  the  (orpses  were  wriipjicd.  Pontf^ravo  cruised  about  these 
water.-*  for  a  lon-j;  time,  iirotectii:^'  the  monoi)olized  fur-trade. 

A  fortress  and  rendezvous  for  fishermen  was  soon  established  n<'ar  Cape  Canso.  ftt 
the  harbor  of  Canso.  In  KISS  the  Caiuo  station  and  the  sedentary  fishery  were 
phnidered  by  an  expetlition  from  Hostoii,  consisting  of  a  crew  of  West-Indian  pri- 
vateersmen.  They  entered  these  waters  in  a  lO-giUi  vessel  called  a  hnrrnloni^a,  and 
carried  away  a  French  ship  from  tb<>  harbor.  After  the  coniiuest  of  Acadiii,  the 
New-Kiifiland  fishcrnu  n  occiiiiied  the  harbor  of  Canso,  and  erected  dwi-llinfrs  and 
warehouses.  In  17'iO  the  settlements  were  attacked  at  night  by  jiowerful  Indian 
bands,  and  comiiletely  I'hnidered,  though  most  of  the  fishermen  escaped  to  their 
vessels  They  loaded  several  French  vessels  with  the  proceeds  of  the  raiil,  and  tlnn 
n-tired  to  the  forest.  In  1722  the  JMassacluisetts  fishing-vessels  were  captured  liere  by 
tlie  Indians,  and  were  fnllowcd  by  arn;ed  vessels  of  that  Province,  who  retook  them 
after  a  naval  battle.  II.  .M.  S.  S<iiiinel  seized  souic  illegal  French  traibrs  here  in 
171S;  and  in  1724  a  iirize-vcssel  was  boarded  by  the  savages  in  theOntot  v  anso,  and 
all  its  crew  were  kilUd  or  cniitiircd.  During  the  snbs(M|uent  peace  New  Kiigland  had 
l,o(i<)-  2,(;(i0  men  here  in  the  fisheries,  and  in  17l''3,  4(!,('(H»  quintals  of  'ry  fish  were 
exported  hence.  A\  ben  the  war-clouils  wen?  lowering,  in  17;i7,  the  Ilritish  had  1<H) 
f-oldiers  in  garri-nn  hc:(>,  and  II.  M.  S.  FJiIhdii  wiis  kcjit  in  tlie  Strait  as  a  guard- 
pjup.  In  1744  M.  Duvivier  attacked  Canso  at  the  head  of  t)70  men.  Frencli  Aca- 
tlians  and  Micmacs,  and  soon  captured  and  destroyed  it.  In  174.')  Peppereil  reached 
Canso  with  8  regiments  of  Massachusetts  troops  and  Ncw-Iliim))shirc  iiiid  Connecti- 
rut  regiments,  and  here  he  reniiiined  for  sonie  weeks,  diilling  his  men  and  erectitiB 
fortifications.  At  a  later  day  Commodore  u  ujcn  .rrived  here  with  the  Itritish 
West-lndiuu  lleet,  the  t'uperb,  GU,  Lav„i  '"»,  5t),  Mf,,i)aid,  40,  Ellliam,  uud  other 
ships. 

The  Briti.«li  vvar-TCSsel  JJtth  Jnrk,  G  puns,  vs :;; . 
17H1,  when  slic  met  two  M!!rble'..ead  jjiivateers. 
Petit  de  tirnt,  a  shorc-battcry  was  formed,  s.  i;i? 
on  her  cable.     -After  n  sharp  action,  one  of  the  j 
Burrcnder,  and  the  other  nuulc-  liaste  to  esc-ape. 
de  (irat,  and  the  vessel  was  taken  to  Quebec. 

After  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution,  Cu  S  c  nd  of  the  Stniit  of  Cr  iso  wu.s 
Otciiiiied  by  a  colony  of  Loyalists  frem  Florida,  wlio  sull'ered  terribly  fmni  the  cc-m- 
par.itive  ii.clemency  of  the  climate.  Tie  present  inhabitants  ot  these  shores  arc 
mostly  of  Scottish  descent,  u  biirdy  and  intrepid  people.  So  late  as  the  year  17b7 
there  was  not  one  settler  on  th<  lUeton  side  of  the  etrait,  and  the  iuimigration  has 
iiiobtly  occurred  during  tuc  present  century. 


•ru*.<'iii,;Rii  ,(  t  the  Strait  of  Canso  In 

Se.M  j  iiii  a  *'  vorable  jiosition  near 

.  ci.  !"r  was  ancliored  with  sjirings 

•  ivt;.'(  rs  was  crippled  and  force  il  to 

TL'  ,'  iiiericans  were  paroled  at  Petit 


ARICHAT. 


Route  S4.      145 


1  of  Cope 
iiit  to  its 
tlmniR  of 
plitlioupc, 
liter,  and 


ho  word  is 
clilTs/'  It 
sinnifviiif? 
icrc.  iliTo 
ip  (HOC  p:i(?e 
uitjhty  wiz- 
liim  ucross 

on  all  the 

0  niirl  ontor- 
yninnth  wn8 
ttk'iiu'iit  on 
.  SaviiU'tto 
r><SS :  nnd  in 
trading  willi 
0(1  tiic  torri- 

to  strin  off 
about  tlieso 

ipo  CnnFO,  at 
lisliory  \v»Te 
t- Indian  pri- 
r(tl(iiii:ti,  and 
f  Aoiidia,  tin- 
IwfUiiitrs  antJ 
torlul  Indian 
i)«'d  to  tlit'ir 
aid,  i>nil  tli<  n 
ituiod  horoiiy 
)  retook  tlu-ni 
nd"rs  liorc  in 
ot  vanso,anil 
Kn)rl:nid  liad 
'rv  fisli  worn 
litisli  lind  1(K) 
it  n«  a  Ruard- 
,  Froncli  Aott- 
|ioroll  roacliod 
and  Cfinnootl- 

1  and  oroctinp; 
li  tlio  Uritish 
i>«,  and  otlior 

[lit  of  Canso  In 
jiosition  noar 
>d  witli  sjiiinjTs 
1  and  flint  d  to 
urulod  at  Tftit 

t  of  Cr  ;iso  wua 
from  tlio  coni- 
oFf  j'iiores  arc 
the  yt'ar  17b7 
luiigratiou  Lud 


34.   Arichat  and  Isle  Madame. 

A.  mail-stnfi;G  runs  dully  from  Port  Hawkosbury  to  Arichat,  30  M.  S.  E., 
pa-ssins  near  tlie  sea-shore  hamlets  of  Caribacou  and  Lower  River  Inhab- 
itant:*, and  approaching!;  the  Scottish  village  of  Grand  Anse.  At  the  French 
llshiiif^-^ettlcMnent  of  Ontiul  Dirjue,  the  passeiif^cr  is  ferried  across  the 
Lennox  Passage,  a  long  and  picturesque  strait  which  separates  Isle 
Madame  from  the  Hreton  shores. 

Isle  Madame  is  lU  AI.  in  length  from  K.  to  W.,  and  about  5  M.  in 
breadth.  Its  surface  is  very  irreijular,  though  of  but  moderate  elevation, 
and  the  central  pari,  is  occujjied  by  a  small  lake.  It  was  settled  over  a 
century  ag<i,  by  exiles  from  Acadia,  whoso  descendants  now  occupy  the 
land,  and  are  pious  Catholics  and  daring  seamen. 

In  1700  the  French  cxploror  of  Isle  Madame  found  113  inhabitants  here,  "  who 
live  as  tlioy  can,"'  on  a  storilo  soil,  and  baroly  maintained  l)y  some  potty  fisheries. 
lie  olosos  his  account  by  saying,  "  >Vo  cjuittod  tliis  country  with  uo  regret,  except 
that  we  must  leave  there  so  many  miserable  people." 

Arichat  (two  indifl''rent  iims)  is  the  capital  of  Richmond  County,  and 
is  the  most  important  lishing-station  between  Halifax  and  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. It  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  arc  of  Acadian- 
French  origin,  and  are  connected  in  some  way  with  the  sea.  The  fisheries 
of  which  tliis  port  is  the  centre  arc  connected  with  the  great  ostablish- 
mcnts  on  the  Isle  of  Jersey  (in  the  Knglish  Channel),  like  those  »if  Chcti- 
camp,  Gaspt',  and  Paspcbiac.  Tliere  is  also  an  American  firm  located 
here,  engaged  in  the  canning  of  lobsters.  The  town  is  scattered  along  the 
steep  N.  shore  of  a  sj)aci()us  and  secure  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by 
Jerseyman  Island,  and  is  "  capable  of  containing  any  number  of  the  largest 
ships."  The  spacious  Catholic  churcli  in  the  W.  part  of  the  town  is  pro- 
vided with  a  chime  of  bells,  and  is  tlio  seat  of  the  Coadjutor  Bishop  of 
Arichat,  whose  diocese  includes  Cape  Hioton  and  the  E.  countiof  of  Nova 
Scotia.  It  is  claimed  that  "The  Sisters  of  the  Congregation  of  Xotro 
Dame,  of  Montreal,  have  a  grand  ami  fiourishing  academy  for  female  edu- 
cation of  the  highest  order  in  the  town  of  Arichat."  E.  of  the  cathedral  is 
the  Richmond  County  Court-House,  stu'tnounted  by  a  cupola.  There  are 
also  an  English  academy  and  an  Anglican  church  in  the  town.  Op  the 
S.  W.  is  seen  the  lighthouse,  bearing  a  fixed  red  light,  which  guides  mari- 
ners through  the  Crid  Passage  and  into  the  harbor. 

To  the  W.  is  the  settlement  o(  Little  Arichat,  extending  along  tho  coast 
for  several  miles,  and  having  undeveloped  coal  deposits.  There  are  over 
1,600  itthabitants  in  this  town,  all  of  whom  arc  Ftvnch.  3-4  M.  E.  of 
Arichat  is  the  Acadian  fishing-hauilet  of  Prtlt  dc  drat,  with  nearly  2  000 
inhabitants;  and  D' Kscomse  is  another  phico  of  similar  pursuits,  ou  the 
c  iher  side  of  tho  Bay  of  Rocks. 

7  J 


•i\ 


14G      Route  35. 


ST.  PETER'S. 


i     1^ 


w: 


V' 


1i 


4  :  ; 


j 


35.   The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  G.  B. 

By  the  icatj  of  the  land,  throuyh  St.  Peter''s. 

The  Royal  mnil-stnpo  leaves  Port  Ilnwkesbury  every  morning,  some  time  after  the 
nrriviil  of  tiie  Antigonish  Ktnge,  and  runs  K.  ami  N.  E.  to  Sydney.  Fare, !?  6.  This 
is  one  of  the  mo.«t  arduous  routes  by  which  Sydney  ean  he  approaclu-d,  and  leads 
through  a  thinly  Hettied  and  uniuterestinp  lountry  until  St.  I'eter's  is  reached. 
JJeyond  that  point  there  is  a  series  of  attractive  views  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  and  St. 
Andrew's  Channel,  eontinuiiiL'  iiimost  to  Sydney. 

I>lNtaiioe)!i.  —  (I'ort  Hastings  to  Port  llawliesbury,  4-5  M.)  Port  Ilawkesbury 
to  Oraud  Ansc,  21  M.  •  St.  Peter's,  35  ;  lied  Isiuud,  52;  Irish  Cove,  G4;  Sydney, 
100. 

There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  during  the  first  part  of  the 
journey.  After  leaving  Port  Ilawkosbury,  the  stage  enters  a  rugged  and 
unpromising  country,  leaving  the  populous  shores  of  Canso  and  pushing 
K.  to  the  River  Inluibilants.  Crossing  that  stream  -where  it  begins  to  nar- 
row, the  road  continues  through  a  region  of  low  bleak  hills,  with  occasional 
views,  to  the  r.,  of  the  deeper  coves  of  the  Lennox  Passage.  Before  noon 
it  reaches  the  nnrrow  Ilaulover  Isthmus,  which  separates  St.  Peter's  Bay, 
on  the  Atlantic  side,  from  St.  Peter's  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  side.  At  thi.", 
point  is  situated  Uie  village  of  St.  Peter's  (two  inns),  a  Scottish  settlement 
near  the  bay.  The  canal  Avhicli  has  been  constructed  here  to  open  com- 
munication between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Bras  d'Or  is  «J  M.  long,  26  ft. 
wide,  and  13  ft.  deep,  and  Js  expected  to  bo  of  much  benefit  to  the  Bras 
d'Or  villages.  It  has  been  finished  within  a  few  years,  and  pertains  to  the 
Government,  which  takes  a  small  toll  from  the  vessels  passing  through. 
S.  E.  of  St.  Peter's  are  the  bluif  heights  of  Mt.  Granville,  and  to  the  N.  W. 
arc  the  uninhabited  highlands  which  arc  called  on  the  maps  the  Sporting 
Mts. 

St.  Peter's  was  founded  by  M.  Dcnys,  about  the  year  1636,  to  command  the  lower 
end  of  the  Bras  d"Or,  as  his  post  at  St.  Anne's  commanded  the  ujtper  end.  He  built 
a  portage-road  here,  ojiened  farm-lands,  and  erected  a  fort  which  mounted  several 
cannon.  Tlie  Indians  residing  on  the  most  remote  arms  of  the  Bras  dOr  were  thus 
enable<I  to  visit  and  carry  their  furs  and  flsh  to  either  one  of  Denys's  forts.  Dcnys 
himself,  together  with  the  fort,  the  ship,  and  all  other  property  here,  was  captured 
soon  after  by  a  naval  force  sent  out  by  M.  le  IJorgne.  But  in  1056  Denys  retook  his 
posts,  guarded  by  a  charter  from  King  Louis.  A  few  years  later  St.  Peter's  was 
captured  by  I,a  (iiraii(li«re,  but  was  afterwards  restored  to  Denys,  wlio,  however, 
abandoned  tlie  island  about  1070,  when  all  his  buildings  at  tliis  po.st  were  destroyed 
by  fire.  In  1737  St.  Peter's  was  fortified  by  M.  de  St.  Ovide,  tlio  commandant  at 
Louisbourg ;  Itut  during  tlie  New-England  crusade  against  tlic  latter  city,  in  1745, 
it  wa>*  captured  and  iilundereJ  by  Col.  Jloulton's  Massachusetts  regiment.  In  1752 
St.  Peter's  was  the  cliief  depot  of  tlie  fur-tnide  with  the  Micmacs,  and  was  sur- 
rounded with  fruitful  farms.  It  was  then  called  Port  Toulousf,  and  was  connected 
witli  Louisbourg  by  a  military  road  18  leagues  in  length,  constructed  by  the  Count 
do  llnymond.  Besides  tbc  garrison  of  FnMich  troops,  there  was  a  civil  population 
of  '2i](}  souls  ;  and  in  17(K)  Port  Toulouse  had  grown  to  be  a  larger  town  than  even 
Louisbourg  itself.  The  King  of  Prance  afterwards  reprimandel  the  Count  do  Rjiy- 
mond  for  construcring  his  military  road,  siying  tliat  it  would  afford  the  English  an 
op|Kirt,unity  to  attack  Louisbourg  on  the  landward  side. 

From  the  Strait  of  Cunso  to  (Irand  Bi.cr  the  coast  is  occupied  by  a  line  of  humblo 
and  retiix'd  villages,  inhabited  bv  Acadiiin-Fk-ench  fishermen.  7-8  M.  S.  E.  of  St, 
iVrcr's  Rve  the  UArdoise  settlements  (so  named  because  .a  slate-quarry  was  once 
Worked  here).     In  1750  theio  wus  u  large  French  village  here,  with  a  garrison  of 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


RmiteSS.      147 


mo  nftor  the 
,!?5.    This 

I,  and  leads 
irt  reached. 

dOr  und  St. 

Iliiwkesbury 
j4  i   Sydney, 

)art  of  the 
uf^ged  and 
nd  puslilng 
skills  to  nar- 
I  occasional 
5efore  noon 
eter's  Bay, 
de.   Atthi.« 
I  scttleiTicnt 
open  corn- 
long,  2G  ft. 
to  the  Bras 
rtains  to  the 
ng  through. 
0  the  N.  W. 
lie  Sporting 


ind  the  lower 
nd.  IIol>uilt 
unted  Hcveral 
Or  were  thus 
rortf".  Denys 
was  captured 
lys  retook  his 
.  Peter's  was 
ho,  however, 
ere  destroyed 
nmandunt  at 
city,  in  174r), 
i-nt.  In  1752 
and  was  sur- 
as crnnocted 
by  the  Count 
il  populiition 
m  than  even 
innt  de  IlJiy- 
le  English  an 

ne  of  humble 
I.  S.  E.  of  St. 
rry  was  onco 
II  garrison  of 


troop.1,  and  L'Ardolsc  was  tho  chief  depot  of  the  fur-tnulc  with  the  Indians.  At 
Grand  Ilivor  the  cliaracter  of  the  population  chanjjes,  tliough  tlie  names  of  tlic  set- 
tlcineiit  would  indicate,  were  history  silent,  tliat  the  towns  beyond  that  point  were 
orijjiniilly  founded  by  tlie  French.  They  are  now  occupied  exclusively  by  tlie  Scotch, 
wliose  liRlit  vessels  put  out  from  the  harbors  of  (irand  River,  I/Archeve(iue,  St. 
Esprit,  Blancherotte,  Framboise,  and  Fourchu,  on  which  are  tishing-villages. 

A  few  miles  N.  E.  of  St.  Peter's  the  stage  crosses  the  Indian  Reserva- 
tion near  Louis  Cove.  Chapel  Island  is  a  little  way  otT  shore,  and  is  tho 
liirgest  of  the  group  of  islots  at  tlie  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet.  These 
Islands  were  granted  by  the  governmo'it,  in  1792,  to  the  Micmac  chiefs 
Buslv  and  Toirima,  for  the  use  of  their  tril)e,  and  have  ever  since  been  re- 
tained by  their  descendants.  On  the  largest  island  is  a  Catholic  chapel 
■where  all  the  Micmacs  of  Cape  Breton  gather,  on  the  festival  of  St.  Anne, 
every  year,  and  pass  several  days  in  religious  ceremonies  and  aboriginal 
games.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  runs  N.  K.  between  Soldier's  Cove  and 
the  bob!  highlands  on  the  r.  and  traverses  the  Red-Island  Settlement,  off 
■wliich  are  the  Red  Islands. 

"  The  road  that  skirts  the  Arm  of  Gold  is  about  100  M.  in  lenRth.  After  leaving 
Sydney  you  ride  beside  the  Spanish  Uiv-^r  a  short  distance,  until  you  come  to  the 
portage,  which  separates  it  from  the  lak?,  and  then  you  follow  the  delicious  curve 

of  the  great  beach  until  you  arrive  at  St.  IVtwr's There  is  not  a  lovelier  ride 

by  white-pebbled  be;ich  and  wide  stretch  of  wave.  Now  we  roll  along  amid.st  pri- 
meval trees, —  not  tho  evergreens  of  the  sea-cojust,  but  familiar  growths  of  maple, 
beech,  birch,  and  larches,  juniper,  or  liackmatack,  —  imi)erishable  for  shijjcraft ; 

now  we  cross  bridges,  over  sparkling  brooks  alive  with  trout  and  salmon To 

hang  now  in  our  curricle,  upon  this  wooded  lull-top,  overlooking  tho  clear  surface 
of  the  lake,  with  leafy  island,  and  ix-ninsula  dotted  in  its  depths,  in  all  its  native 
grace,  without  a  touch  or  trace  of  handiwork,  far  or  near,  save  and  except  a  single 
spot  of  sail  in  the  far-off,  is  holy  and  sublime."   (Cozzexs.) 

About  10  M.  beyond  the  Red  Island  Settlement  is  the  way-office  and  vil- 
lage at  Irish  Cove,  whence  a  road  runs  10-12  M.  S.  E.  across  the  highlands 
to  the  Grand-River  Lake,  or  Loch  LoinonJ,  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water 
5-G  M.  long,  studded  witli  islets  and  abounding  in  trout.  The  Scottish 
luimlots  of  Loch  Lomond  and  Lochside  are  on  its  shores;  and  on  the  N., 
and  connected  by  a  narrow  strait,  is  Loch  Uist.  The  road  crosses  tho 
lake  and  descends  to  Framboise  Harbor,  on  tlie  Atlantic  coa.st. 

N.  of  Loch  Uist,  and  about  7  M.  from  the  Bras  d'Or,  i^  a  remarkable  saline  .Tring, 
containing  in  each  gallon  343  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  3<W  of  chloride  of  cal- 
cium, and  I)  of  tho  chlorides  of  magnesium  and  pota.ssium.  This  water  is  singularly 
free  from  sulphurous  contamination,  and  has  been  found  very  efficient  in  cases  of 
asthma,  rheumatism,  and  chronic  headache.  There  ara  no  accommodations  for 
visitors. 

About  6  M.  N.  W.  of  Irish  Cove  is  seen  Benacadie  Point,  at  the  entranco 
to  the  East  Bay,  a  picturesque  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  ascends  for 
18-20  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  and  is  bordered  by  lines  of  bold  heights.  Near  its 
N.  shore  are  several  grou-rs  of  islands,  and  tho  depth  of  tho  bay  is  from 
8  to  32  fatlioms.  The  stDge  follows  its  shore  to  the  upper  end.  Above 
Irish  Cove  tho  road  lies  between  the  bay  and  a  mountain  600  ft.  high,  be- 
yond which  is  Cape  lihumove.  3-4  M.  farther  on  is  Loch  an  Fad,  beyond 
which  a  roadside  chapel  is  seen,  and  the  road  passes  on  to  Edodbchuk^ 


148      Route  SG. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


i      A 


!    li 


botwpcn  the  lioights  nnd  the  bine  wntcr.  The  opposite  shore  (4  M.  dis- 
tant) is  occnpiod  by  the  Indians,  wlioso  principal  village  is  called  ICsaisoni, 
nnd  is  sitnatcd  near  tlio  group  of  islands  in  Crane  Cove.  'I'lio  bay  now 
dinnnislics  to  2  M.  in  widili,  and  is  followed  to  its  sonrce  in  the  lagoon  of 
Tweednogie.  The  aggregate  number  of  inhabit;'.nts,  Scottish  nnd  Indian, 
nlong  the  shores  of  the  Kast  Bay,  is  a  little  over  2,000.  The  stage  c/osscs 
the  narrow  isthnnis  (4-5  M.),  nnd  then  follows  the  line  of  the  Forks 
Lake  and  the  Sjianish  Kiver,  to  the  town  of  Sydney. 
Sydney,  see  i)ago  150. 


36.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton. 

J3y  the  Sea. 

Thcro  is  an  uidircct  rontn  by  the  Boston  &  Colonial  stonmships  to  Port  Ilawkcs- 
bury,  tlioiicc  by  stanc  to  West  Bay,  and  up  tlip  Bras  d'Or  to  Sydney. 

Tlic  An^rlo-KiTiu'li  Steamship  ('ompanys  vessel,  tlie  George  IS/inttiirk-,  leaves  Hal- 
ifax on  alternate  Saturdays  it  .'{  p.  m.,  for  Sydney  and  St.  Pierre  (see  lloute  50). 
Tares  (ineluding  meals),  Ilalif  .x  to  Sydney,  eabin,  S  10  ;  steemp',  !«G. 

The  llastern  Steamship  Company's  vessel,  the  Virao,  leaves  Halifax  on  nlternnto 
Tuesdays  tor  Sytlney  and  St.  .lolins,  N.  F.  (see  also  |{onte  51).  Fares  to  Sydiu'y,  iS  8 
and  !?5  (in<hidiii(i  state-rooms,  hut  not  nu'als);  or  for  un  excursion  to  Sydney  and 
return,  812.  For  furtlier  partirtilars,  or  to  make  rertain  of  tlio  days  of  starting, 
addre.>is  Wilkinson,  Wood,  &  Co.,  Halifax,  N.  S.  Tlic  Virgo  is  much  hotter  adapted 
for  carrying  passengers  tliau  is  tlie  George  l^iattuck. 

Halifax  Harbor,  see  page  93. 

'J'he  course  of  the  steamship  is  almost  always  within  sight  of  land,  a 
cold,  dark,  and  rock-bound  const,  ofT  which  are  submerged  ledges  on 
which  the  sea  breaks  into  white  foam.  This  const  is  described  in  Routes 
28  and  29;  but  of  its  nspect  from  the  sea  the  Kditor  cnn  say  nothing,  as 
ho  was  obliged  to  traverse  the  route  as  far  as  Canso  by  night. 

After  passing  the  bold  headland  of  Cape  Canso,  the  deep  bight  of  Ched- 
nbucto  Bay  is  seen  on  the  W.,  running  in  to  Guysborough  and  the  Strait 
of  Canso.  Between  Cape  Canso  and  Red  Point,  on  Cape  Breton,  the  open- 
ing is  about  30  M.  wide,  inside  of  which  arc  Isle  Madame  (Route  34)  and 
St.  Peter's  Bay.  The  course  of  the  vessel,  after  crossing  this  wide  open- 
ing, converges  toward  the  Breton  coast,  which  is,  however,  low  and  with- 
out character,  nnd  is  studded  with  white  fishing-hamlets.  St.  Espnt  is 
visible,  with  its  little  harbor  indenting  the  coast. 

A^iout  the  middle  of  the  last  century  the  British  frigate  Tilbury ^  G4,  was  caught 
O'.  ..lis  shore  during  a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  and  was  unable  to  work  oil',  in  sjiite  of 
11)0  utmost  exertions  of  lier  great  crew.  Tlie  Tilbury  Rocks,  off  St  Esprit,  sfill 
rommemoratc  the  place  where  sh.'  fiiuilly  struck  and  went  to  jdeces.  2(J0  sailors 
v<'re  either  drowned  or  killed  by  being  da.''hed  on  the  sharp  rocks,  and  200  men  and 
].")  nlllcers  were  saved  from  the  waves  by  the  Frencli  peopli'  of  St.  Esprit,  who  nour- 
ished and  sheltered  them  with  tender  earc.  Engl;ind  and  France  being  thou  at  war, 
the  survivors  of  the  Tilburj/\i  crew  were  despatched  to  France  as  prisoners,  on  the 
Fiencli  frigate  Hinniane.  This  vessel  was,  however,  captured  in  the  English  Chan- 
nel, and  the  sailors  were  released. 

Beyond  St.  Esprit  the  coves  of  Framboise  and  Fourchu  make  in  from 


CAPE  BRETON. 


Route  30.      149 


>  (4  M.  flis- 
il  IJscnso7}i, 
ic  l)!iy  now 
I'lpfoou  of 
111(1  Indian, 
ajjo  c  Ai^sos 
the  Forks 


i'ort  llawkcs- 

,  Icfives  Ilal- 
!o  Uoutc  50). 

on  nUcrnnto 
)  Svdiioy,  fS  8 
)  Sytliicy  ftiicl 
s  of  stnrting, 
uttor  uduptvti 


it  of  land,  a 
1  ledges  on 
1  in  Routes 
nothing,  as 

iht  of  Clied- 
l  the  Strait 
11,  the  opcn- 
lute  34)  and 
1  wide  open- 
w  and  with- 
it.  Esp^'it  is 


1,  was  caught 
>1V,  in  Fplte  of 
t  Ejiprit,  dfiU 
i.  200  sailors 
200  uiL-n  and 
it,  wlio  nour- 
:  then  at  war, 
oners,  on  the 
luglitfb  ChoQ- 


ko  in  from 


^ 


the  sea,  and  above  the  deep  inlet  of  dabarus  Bay  the  lighthouse  of  Louis- 
bourg  (sec  Koutc  38)  may  perhaps  be  seen. 

In  1744  the  French  ships  Notrf  Dame  'If  la  Delirrnnrr,  Louix  f.rnxmf,  and  Marquis 
d'Antin  nailed  from  Caliao  (I'eru),  with  a  vast  amount  of  treivsun*  on  IxNinl,  con- 
cealed under  a  surfa<'e-car;;o  of  cocoa.  Tiie  two  latter  were  capi  ured  otT  the  Azores 
by  the  IJritisli  privateers  ^rinre  Fmlerirlc  and  Diikr,  hut  during  tiie  3  liours'  action 
the  Sotrc  Ihiiiif  escajied.  Not  dirinj;  to  approach  the  Frencli  coa-st  while  fo  many 
hostile  privateers  were  crnisinn  about,  she  crowded  all  sail  and  horo  away  for  Louis- 
bourn.  20  days  later  she  si}?hU<d  Scutari,  aniJ  it  -remed  that  lier  valualth-  cargo 
was  already  safe.  But  slie  was  met,  n  sh.ort  distance  to  the  S.,  by  a  Uritish  fleet, 
and  lu'caine  a  prize.  Amonj;  tiu*  people  captured  on  tlio  Notre  Daiiic  was  Don 
Antonio  d'Uiloa,  the  famous  Spanish  .scientist,  who  was  kept  liertJ  in  light  captivity 
for  two  niontlis,  and  who  afterwards  wrote  an  interesting  l>oolt  al.'out  Ca|H!  ISrtton. 
Tlie  lucky  ves.sels  (liat  made  the  capture  were  the  Sunderland,  Boston,  and  CheMtr, 
ond  their  crews  had  great  priw-money,  —  for  over  $4,000,000  was  found  on  tho 
Noire  Dnine,  in  l)ars  and  ingots  of  gold  and  silver. 

In  IToO  tl»u  French  frigat(!  Arr-t  n-Ciel,  7^^,  and  tlic  Awiiii  were  captured  in  theso 
waters  by  11.  H.  M.  ships  Cmturionnml  Success.  In  .luly,  IToO,  the  Frencli  ve.xsels 
Jliros,  74,  llluslre,  ti4,  and  two  ;j)-gun  frigates  met  II  H.  M.  siiips  Grafton,  70,  Not- 
tinifliam,  70,  ami  the  Jauiitira  sloop,  and  fought  fron>  mid-afternoon  till  dark.  Tho 
action  was  indecisive,  and  each  tlect  claimed  that  tlie  otlicr  stolo  :.way  at  njgiit. 
Tho  loss  of  men  on  Ixith  sides  was  con;  iderable. 

In  May,  1745,  a  gallant  nav.il  action  w.ls  fougiit  hereabout.^  l)etween  tho  French 
«hip-of-the-line  Vigilant  and  Com.  >Varn'n's  tieet,  consistiTig  of  the  .S';/p<r/;  (*30-gnn 
8liip),and  tho  l.aunrestoti,  Mtr>naitl,in\il  /v7/ia;>n40-gun  frigates).  The  Vigilant  was 
carrying  a  supply  of  military  g(r)ds  from  Hrest  to  Louishourg,  and  nu-t  the  M'r- 
innid,  standing  olT  and  on  in  the  fog.  Tho  latter  nuide  sail  and  Med  toward  tho 
Fijuadron,  and  the  Viaitnnt  swept  on  in  the  fog  and  ran  into  the  midst  of  tlie 
Uritish  lleet.  Warren's  ships  ojH'ned  fire  on  every  side,  but  tho  French  captain, 
tho  Marquis  de  Maisouforte,  n-fused  to  ."urrencler,  though  his  decks  were  covered 
with  stores  and  his  lower  ltatterie.^  wen-  beiow  the  water-line  by  r«'ason  of  the  heavy 
cargo.  The  l)attlo  was  terrilic,  ami  lusted  for  7  hours,  while  Maisonforto  kept  \\\A 
colors  flying  and  his  cannon  roaring  until  all  his  rigging  was  cut  away  liy  tlio  liritisli 
Bhot,  the  rudder  was  l)r<>ken,  tho  forecastle  battered  to  pieces,  and  great  numbers 
of  the  crew  wounded  or  dead. 

The  steamsiiip  now  runs  out  to  round  Scatari,  traversing  waters  which 
maintain  a  uniform  depth  of  over  30  fathoms.  On  the  W.  is  the  promon- 
tory of  Cape  Breton,  from  which  the  island  receives  its  name.  It  is  a  low 
headland,  off  which  is  the  dark  rock  of  Torto  Nuevo  Island. 

There  is  an  old  French  tradition  to  the  efr««ct  that  Verazmno,  the  eminent  Floren- 
tine navigator,  landed  near  ('ape  Ilreton  on  his  last  voyage,  and  attempted  to  found 
a  fortilied  settlement.  Hut  being  suddenly  attacked  and  overjwwered  by  the  Indians, 
himself  and  all  his  crew  were  put  to  death  in  a  cruel  manner.  It  is  known  to  his- 
tory that  tliis  discoverer  was  never  heard  from  after  leaving  Franco  on  his  last  voy- 
age (in  iry25). 

It  is  believed  that  Capo  Breton  was  first  visited  by  tho  Marigold  (70  tons).  In 
151*3;  whereof  it  is  written  :  '■  Here  cMuers  of  our  men  went  on  land  vpon  the  very 
cape,  where,  at  their  arriuall  they  found  the  spittes  of  oke  of  the  Sauages  which  had 
roa.xted  meat©  a  little  ])efore  And  as  tliey  viewed  the  countrey  they  saw  diners 
beastes  and  foules,  as  blacke  foxes,  dwres,  otters,  great  foules  with  redde  legges,  pen- 
guines,  and  certaine  others."  Thence  the  Marigold  sailed  to  tho  site  of  LouLsbourg, 
where  her  crew  landed  to  get  water,  but  were  driven  off  shore;  by  tho  Indians. 

The  cape  probably  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  of  its  being  visited  by  tho  Breton  and 
Bius(iue  fishermen,  who  in  those  days  freqmnted  these  seas.  Capo  Breton  was  at 
that  time  a  prosperous  commercial  city,  near  Bayonne,  in  the  .''outli  of  France.  It 
was  fre(iuented  by  the  Huguenots  al)out  this  time,  and  had  largo  fleets  engaged  in 
tho  fisheries.  By  the  changing  of  tho  course  of  the  Adour  River,  and  the  ilrlfting  of 
sand  into  its  harbor,  its  maritime  importance  was  taken  away,  and  in  1841  it  had  but 
920  inhabitants.     { Dir.tionnaire  Eiiriirloiiedi(fii<\) 

Ici  1U2!)  Lord  Ochiltree,  the  ion  of  the  ilarl  of  Arran,  come  out  with  GO  colouihtB, 


!'t.; 

'■  I  .        ■■•>; 


,l„:: 


I 


i.l 


ii  I 


\ww 


H 


I 


i. 

ii      !:j 

,]■            j    ■ 

i    ^i! 

:;    !,'_ 

li 

t' 

1 

i    (1    ' 

f 

:   J:   ^' 

f 

.         I 

:f 

■  i 

il  ||    ! 

150       IioHlc3G. 


S\T)NEY. 


nnJ  fo»in<lc(l  a  town  on  tho  hnrbor  ^f  Pnlcino,  S.  K.  of  Cnpollrpton.  The  hoadntronj^ 
Scottish  iioMo  was  artiUniry  in  liis  dtalinns  with  llic  Frciicli  ftslu  rnn'ii  on  tin*  roact, 
nml  WHS  BodU  nttacki'il  )).v  n  Htron>;  h(nl>  of  Nnrniaiis.  The  nnnor-clad  Srotn  U>i  n 
tinio  (lefciuU'd  then*  fort  liravt'ly,  hut  w«'n>  nl  lu.stcon^pclliMl  to  surn-ndrr,  nnd  vito 
carried  olf  an  iirisoners,  inc■llldin^;  l,ord  Ochiltnc,  wlio  was  plimdcri'd  of  ull  lliiit  lio 
possessed,  and  was  pent  to  France  in  tlie  liold  of  tiie  (irial  St.  Aiidrnr. 

In  li^T)  tli(>  Frenrli  frijjnte  Lr  Vli(i)iifuii,  (>(>,  was  wrecked  on  I'orto  Niievo  Island, 
and  all  on  hoanl  w<'re  lost.  Anions  these  nnfortnnate  (leople  were  M.  de  Clia/.i  I, 
Intendant  of  Canada  ;  M  ile  Loiivipny,  (Jovernnr  of 'J'rois  i{ivi«  res,  nnnienius  other 
colonial  dijinitaties,  and  several  ecclesiastics.  "  This  niisfortnne  in  the  course  of  ft 
sinplo  nipht  hronj^ht  nK)re  prief  and  loss  upon  the  French  colonics  than  thoy  liad 
BUllered  during  '2M  years  of  warfare."     (Cuarlevoix.  ) 

Soatari  Island  is  about  5  M.  N.  E.  of  Ciipo  Rretnn,  and  lies  on  the  4nili 
panillcl  of  N.  latitude.  It  is  a  rock-bound  island,  8  by  4  M.  in  area,  and 
is  II  favorite  resort  of  sea-birds.  On  the  E.  point  is  a  powerful  revolving 
white  light,  nnd  on  the  W.  end  is  a  fixed  red  light.  The  Halifax  and  Syd- 
ney steamers  sometimes  run  inside  of  Soatari,  through  tho  Maiu-ii-Dieu 
(orMcnadou)  Passage,  near  the  obscure  fishing-hamlet  of  Main-U'Dieu. 
N.  nnd  W.  of  Soatari  is  the  wide,  deep,  and  unsheltered  Mira  IJay. 

After  crossing  the  broad  mouth  of  Mira  Bay,  tho  shallower  bight  of  Cow 
Bay  is  seen  on  tho  1.  The  vessel  steams  to  the  X.,  by  the  dark  and  rug- 
ged rock  oC Flint  Island,  and  then  runs  about  X.  W.  by  the  great  coal-dis- 
tricts of  (7/acei?«// and  ZiH^rai  (see  Route  37).  Rounding  tho  lighthouse 
on  Low  Point  (or  Flat  Poiiit),  she  nsccnds  Sydney  Harbor,  passing  tho 
mines  nnd  villages  of  the  Victoria  Company  on  the  1.,  and  the  great  shafts 
nnd  works,  hamlets  and  churches,  gf  the  General  Alining  Association  on 
the  r.  After  running  by  the  lighthouse  on  the  S.  E.  15ar,  the  opening  of 
the  W.  Arm  is  seen,  and  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf  at  Sydney. 

Sydney,  formerly  tho  capital  of  tho  Island-Province  of  Cape  Breton, 
occupies  a  favorable  position  on  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  is  the  chief  town  of  the  island.  It  has  about  2,800  iidiabitants, 
with  G  chui'chcs,  2  newspapers,  a  masonic  hall,  and  the  Court-Housc  of 
Capo  Breton  County.  Tho  principal  nrliclc  of  trade  is  coal,  of  which  vast 
quantities  are  brought  by  railways  to  this  harbor,  vhenco  they  are  sent 
away  on  vessels.  Cattle  and  provisions  nre  also  exported  from  this  point 
to  St.  Pierre  and  Newfoundland.  Near  the  water's  edge  is  a  white  build- 
ing, suiTounded  by  balconies  and  adjoined  by  a  broad  pier  nnd  a  flag-stalT. 
This  little  estate  is  the  headquarters  of  tho  French  fleet  in  the  North  At- 
lantic, and  is  kept  with  true  man-of-war's-man's  neatness.  There  is 
usually  n  frigate  of  this  fleet  lying  off  the  village,  and  their  bands  fre- 
quently play  in  the  town.  There  is  a  pleasant  view  over  tho  harbor  from 
the  old  fort  on  Barrack  Point. 

It  is  usually  said  of  a  fair  harbor  anywhere  in  the  Australian  or  Ameri- 
can colonies,  that  it  "is  capable  of  containing  the  whole  British  navy." 
This  remark  has  been  made  concerning  Sydney  Harbor  by  the  best 
authority,  Cnpt.  Bayfield,  R.  N.,  the   murine  surveyor  who  made  the 


«  ^ 
4 


i 


NORTH  SYDNEY. 


Route  3G.      151 


X\w  Pdiict, 

'fotH  fdi'  n, 

mill  v»i>r<i 

11  thitt  ho 

'vo  Iflnml, 

(||>('|UI/<I, 

Tous  otlicr 
■ourHi'  (if  II 
n  tbey  Imd 

1  tiio  4ntii 

iuoii,  mid 

revolving 

iiul  Sytl- 

iii-u-I)ieu 

iii-a-Dieu. 

i;lit  of  Coio 
1111(1  nig- 
it  coiil-dis- 
liphtliouso 
iissiiip  tlio 
rent  sliafts 
)ciation  on 
')pciiinp  of 
Sydney. 

po  Breton, 
le  Atlantic 
dijibitiints, 
t-HouPo  of 
which  vast 
'y  nre  sent 
»  this  point 
liitc  huild- 
i  flag-stall". 
North  At- 
Thero  is 
bands  fre- 
arbor  from 

or  Amcri- 
sh  navy." 
r  tho  best 
made  the 


Admiralty  charts  for  tho  British  North-American  const.  Tho  deep  water 
continues  ai)ovo  tho  wharves,  and  as  far  up  as  Sydney  Bridge.  Over  500 
vessels  called  at  this  port  In  the  summer  of  IS?-*,  most  of  which  wero  hero 
ficif^hted  with  coal.  The  harbor  is  usually  Icc-boiuid  during  the  winter, 
from  .Ian.  1  to  April  1,  and  on  this  account  is  less  valuable  than  others 
more  to  the  S. 

Tho  town  of  Pyilney  is  not  nttrnctivp  in  its  oxtornal  aspoots,  thouKh  It  is  said  that 
itss(M'ii'ty  i.'<  of  a  liiuli  order  of  niiturc  and  cxclii.-iVL'  dij{iuty.  It  iiomM'Skch  many  of 
tlie  social  nttril)iit('s  ofan  old  colonial  caitital,  though  tlu  n-are  now  no  vcstif^cs  of  its 
former  position  save  tin;  dc's<  rtcd  Ijurnit  k.-4  and  dfcuyhit;  l>atteri<'S.  Tho  stnin^or  in 
.*^vilni'y  will  In-  iilile  to  see  all  that  lu>  cari-s  to  of  tin-  town  in  loss  tlian  an  hour,  for 
itisdt'voi'l  of  interest,  notwithstanding  tho  prominont  position  which  it  liolds  ia 
tho  worltls  nuirino  intolli^'onoo  and  shippin;?  news.  Hydnoy  is  750  M.  fh)m  New 
York.tKHt  M.  from  Hoston,  240  M.  from  ilulifux,  400  M.  from  St.  John's  (N.  1'.), 
and  72u  M.  from  (iiiohcf. 

Tho  hotels  at  Svdnoy  arc  Arr/iibnli/\s  and  tlie  //i^^rna^'o/irt/,  both  of  which  are 
small.  .Mrs.  Yonii;;  al.so  koops  a  coinfortahlo  inn.  Tho  routes  from  Sydney  to  Hali- 
fax are  by  tho  K:istorn  .Steamship  t'ompanys  boat ;  by  tho  Anplo-Krench  SteaniHliip 
Company,  fortnightly  ;  by  tho  Bras  d'Or  steamer,  connecting  with  various  lines  at 
Port  llawkesbury  (see  Kouto  |0);  or  l>y  stage  and  railway,  tlirongli  I'ort  llawkesbury 
and  Antigonish  (sco  Ilontos.T*  and  .TJ,  rovor.soil).  Tho  Urius  d'Orctoamer  leaves  Syd- 
ney send-weekly  (see  llouto  40) ;  and  a  stonm  ferry-boat  crosses  to  N.  Sydney  tliroe 
times  d:dly.  Stages  run  several  times  weekly  to  tho  coal-mines  at  Lingan,  Littlo 
Glace  Hay,  and  Cow  Day   see  Koutc  ^7) ;  and  also  to  Louisbourg  (sec  lluutu  38). 

North  Sydney  is  6-  8  M.  N.  W.  of  Sydney ,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  the  steam  ferry-boat  Lndi/  of  the  FMke,  making  three  trips  daily.  It 
is  a  busy  and  dingy  little  place,  and  has  several  tanneries,  a  shoe-factory, 
and  the  shii)ping-depnt^  of  the  Sydney  coal-mines.  There  are  several 
taverns,  of  the  most  inferior  order.  The  marine-railway  at  this  point  has 
until  recently  been  occupied  by  tho  hulks  and  wrecked  ves-scls  which 
were  left  along  the  coast  after  the  Lord's-Day  Gale.  About  4  M.  N.  W.  is 
the  I'rench  Village  on  the  Little  Bras  d'Or;  and  n  road  runs  30  M.  S.  W. 
over  the  iminhabited  highlands  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews,  to  tho 
Grand  Narrows,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  Lake. 

The  Iiarbor  of  Sydney  wiis  visited  in  1587  by  tlio  English  ship  Tlopeioell,  which 
drove  out  a  lli^cayan  ves  ol  and  plundered  all  tho  flsli-8ta.;os  along  tho  shore.  Many 
savages  hero  visited  thi;  ship,  "  among  whom  was  their  king,  whose  name  was  Itary, 
and  tlioir  queerio,  to  whom  also  we  gaue  coats  and  kniues  and  other  tritles.  Tlieso 
Sanages  c;illod  tho  liarborow  (Mho.  In  this  place  arc  the  greatest  multitude  of 
lobsters  that  ouor  we  hoard  of  ;  for  we  caught  at  one  hawle  with  a  little  draw 
net  .abouo  140."  This  Iiarbor  soon  received  the  name  of  Baio  des  Espagnols,  be- 
cause during  the  troublous  times  of  tlie  IGth  century,  it  was  the  favorite  resort  of 
tho  Spanish  fishermen,  as  Louisbourg  w itS  of  tlio  English,  and  St.  Add«'s  of  tho 
French. 

In  1G9G  the  Froncli  frigates  VEiivieux  and  Fro/ondy  commanded  by  tlio  valiant 
Iberville,  entered  the  Iiarbor  of  Sydney,  and  summoned  to  its  sliorofi  the  Indian 
warriors  of  Cape  Mn^ton.  A  chosen  force  of  Micmacs  were  soon  embarked,  and  then 
they  .sailed  away  to  the  destruction  of  I'omaquid.  This  was  also  the  station  of  tho 
powerful  French  squadron  under  the  Chevalier  du  Palais.  Attor  Admiral  Wallcer's 
terribly  disastrous  voyage  in  the  Gulf  (in  1711),  the  remainder  of  his  fleet  wiw 
gathered  together  here,  and  it  is  said  that  the  42  war- vessels  then  a-ssembled  formed 
tho  most  powerful  naval  armament  ever  seen  in  these  waters.  They  lay  in  tho 
roadstead,  abn-ast  of  Lloyd's  Cove,  and  the  Admiral  had  the  following  pompous  in- 
scription erected  on  the  shore  :  — 

"  In  niiiiiine  Patris,  FiUi,et  Spirit 'is  Sancti,  Amen.  Omnibus  in  Christi  Fideli- 
bus  Salutem.    Anna,  Dei  Gratia-,  Mo^'n.  Britannia,  Francite,  et  Hibernia^  Regina ; 


# 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


i.O 


I.I 


L£|2j8     |25 


111 


■  2.0 

!^  IIIU    11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporatioii 


V 


23  WiST  MAIN  STRUT 

WIBSTtt,N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  172^303 


'4^ 


if 


pp 


i 

! 

1, 

1 

!' 

: 

1 

St 

' 

J 

1 

1 

i ' 

L 

152     Routes?.     THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS. 

Totiusque  AmericcB  Septentrionalis  Domina,  Fidei  Defensor,  etc.  In  Cujus  harum 
insularum  vulgo  Cape  Breton,  Proprietatis  et  Dominii  Testimonium,  Hoc  Erexit 
Monumentum,  Sua>,  Majestatis  Servus,  et  Subditus  Jidelissimus,  D.  Hovenden 
Walker,  Equer  Auratus,  Omnium  in  America  Navium  degalium,  Ptafectus  et 
Thalassiarcha.     Monte  Septernbris,  Anno  Salutis  MDCCXI." 

The  first  civil  governor  of  Cape  Breton  after  its  severance  from  Nova  Scotia  (1784) 
was  Major  Desbarres.  a  veteran  of  the  campaigns  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  Lake  George, 
Ticonderoga,  Louisbburg,  and  Quebec.  One  of  his  chief  steps  >ya8  to  select  a  site  for 
the  new  capital  of  the  island,  and  the  location  chosen  was  the  peninsula  on  the  S. 
arm  of  the  capacious  harbor  called  Spanish  River.  The  seat  of  government  thus 
established  was  named  Sydney,  in  honor  of  Lord  Sydney,  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
Colonies,  who  had  erected  Cape  Breton  into  a  separate  Province.  In  the  spring  of 
1786  the  Loyalists  under  Abraham  Cuyler  (ex-Mayer  of  Albany,  N.  Y.)  came  from 
Louisbourg  to  Sydney,  cut  down  the  forests,  and  erected  buildings. 

In  1781  a  sharp  naval  battle  was  fought  off  Sydney  Harbor,  between  the  French 
frigates  VAstide  and  L' Hermwne  (of  44  guns  each)  and  a  British  squadron  consist- 
ing of  the  Cliarlestown,  28,  Allegiance,  16,  Vulture,  16,  Little  Jack,G,  and  the  armed 
transport  Vernon.  16  coal-ships  which  were  under  convoy  of  the  British  fleet  fled 
into  Sydney  harbor,  while  the  frigates  rapidly  overhauled  the  escort  and  brought  on 
a  general  engagement.  After  a  long  and  stubborn  action,  the  Little  /acA;  surren- 
dered, and  the  remainder  of  the  fleet  would  have  shared  the  same  fate,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  approach  of  night,  under  whose  shelter  the  shattered  British  vessels 
bore  away  to  the  eastward  and  escaped.  They  had  lost  18  men  killed  and  28 
wounded.  The  senior  captain  of  toe  victorious  French  vessels  was  La  Perouse,  who 
started  in  1788,  with  two  frigates,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  around  the  world,  but 
was  lost,  with  all  bis  equipage,  on  the  Isle  of  Yauikoro. 


37.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.— The  Sydney  Coal- 

Fields. 

The  Sydney  Mines  are  on  the  N.  side  of  Sydney  Harbor,  and  are  con- 
nected with  N.  Sydney  by  a  '•c"!  '•lilvvay  and  also  by  a  daily  stage  (fare, 
75c.).  They  are  on  the  level  land  included  between  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  are  worked  by  the  General  Mining  Asso- 
ciation of  London.  Nearly  600  men  are  employed  in  the  pits,  and  the  vil- 
lage has  a  population  of  2,600. 

The  Interrational  Mines  are  at  Bridgeport,  13  M.  N.  E.  of  Sydney,  and 
are  connected  with  that  harbor  by  a  railway  that  cost  $  500,000.  The  sea- 
shore is  here  lined  with  rich  cor  1-deposits,  extending  from  Lingan  Harbor 
to  Sydney.  It  is  probable  that  the  submarine  mining,  which  has  already 
been  commenced,  will  follow  the  carboniferous  strata  far  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Victoria  Mines  are  W.  of  this  district,  and  near  Low  Point,  9  JL 
from  Sydney.  The  company  has  a  railway  which  extends  to  their  freight- 
ing station  on  Sydney  Harbor,  and  is  at  present  doing  a  prosperous  busi- 
ness. 

The  Lingan  Mines  are  near  Bridgeport,  and  are  reached  by  a  tri-weekly 
stage  from  Sydney  (16  M. ;  fare,  $1.50).  Lingan  is  derived  from  the 
French  word  L'Indienne,  applying  to  the  same  place.  It  was  occupied 
and  fortified  by  the  British  early  in  the  18th  century,  and  a  garrison  of 
50  men  was  stationed  here  to  guard  the  coal-mines.  At  a  later  day  the 
French  army  at  Louisbourg  was  supplied  Avith  large  quantities  of  coal 
from  this  point,  and  several  cargoes  v/ere  sent  away.    During  the  summer 


THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS.     Route  37.      153 


■ujus  harum 
Hoc  Erexit 
.  Hovenden 
PxBfectus  et 

Scotia  (1784) 
jake  George, 
L'ct  a  site  ifor 
ila  on  the  S. 
nment  thus 
State  for  the 
he  spring  of 
I  came  from 

i  the  French 
liun  consist- 
d  the  armed 
Ish  fleet  fled 
brought  on 
Jack  surren- 
';  had  it  not 
ritish  vessels 
'.led  and  28 
'erouse,  who 
e  world,  but 


ey  Coal- 
id  are  con- 
stage  (faro, 
B  Bras  d'Or 
ining  Asso- 
ind  the  vil- 

ydney,  and 
}.  The  sen- 
^an  Harbor 
has  already 
ath  the  sea. 
Point,  9  M. 
leir  freight- 
lerous  busi- 

,  tri-weekly 
d  from  the 
LS  occupied 
garrison  of 
iter  day  the 
Lies  of  coal 
he  summer 


m 


of  1752  the  mine  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  fort  and  buildings  were  all 
destroyed. 

The  Little  Glace  Bay  Mines  are  18  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are  reached 
by  a  tri-weekly  stage  (fare,  $1).  They  are  situated  on  Glace  Bay  and 
Glace  Cove,  and  about  Table  Head,  and  are  carried  on  by  a  Halifax  com- 
pany, which  employs  300  miners.  The  deposits  are  very  rich  along  this 
shore,  and  extend  far  out  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Gowrie  and  Block-House  Mines  are  on  Cow  Bay,  and  are  among  the 
most  extensive  on  this  coast.  They  are  22  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are 
reached  by  a  tri-weekly  stage.  They  employ  over  600  men,  and  have 
formed  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants.  Large  fleets  gather  in  the  bay  for 
the  transportation  of  the  coal  to  the  S.,  and  while  lying  here  are  in  con- 
siderable peril  during  the  previlence  of  easterly  gales,  which  have  a  full 
s'',eep  into  the  roadstead.  Nearly  70  vessels  were  wrecked  here  during 
the  Lord's-Day  Gale,  and  the  shores  were  strewn  with  broken  hulks  and 
many  yet  sadder  relics  of  disaster.  The  S.  portal  of  the  bay  is  Cape 
Morien,  and  on  the  N.  is  Cape  Perry,  off  which  is  the  sea-i;urrounded  Flint 
Island,  bearing  a  revolving  white  light. 

The  coal-beds  of  Cape  Breton  were  first  described  by  Donys,  in  1672,  and  from 
1677  to  1690  he  had  a  royalty  of  20  sous  per  ton  on  all  the  coal  that  was  exported. 
Some  of  it  was  taken  to  France,  and  great  quantities  were  sent  into  New  England. 
In  1720  a  mine  was  opened  at  Cow  Bay,  whence  the  French  army  at  Louisbourg 
was  supplied,  and  numerous  cargoes  were  shipped  to  Boston.  Between  1745  and 
1749  the  British  garrison  at  Louisbourg  was  abundantly  supplied  with  fuel  from 
mines  at  Burnt  Head  and  Little  Bras  d'Or,  which  were  protected  against  the  Indians 
by  fortified  outposts.  The  Abb6  Raynal  says  that  there  was  "  a  prodigious  demand 
for  Cape-Breton  coal  from  New  England  from  the  year  1745  to  1749."  But  this  trade 
was  soon  stopped  by  the  British  government,  and  only  enough  mining  was  done  to 
suoply  the  troops  at  Louisbourg  and  Halifax.  The  "  coal-smugglers  "  still  carried 
on  a  lucrative  business,  slipping  quietly  into  the  harbors  and  mining  from  the  great 
seams  in  the  face  of  the  cliffs.  In  1785  the  Sydney  vein  was  opened  by  Gov.  IJes- 
barres,  but  its  profitable  working  was  prevented  by  heavy  royalties.  The  Imperial 
Government  then  assumed  the  control,  and  its  vessels  captured  many  of  the  light 
craft  of  the  smugglers.  In  1828  the  General  Mining  Association  was  formed  in  Lon- 
don, and  secured  the  privilege  of  the  mines  and  minerals  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cajjo 
Breton  from  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  they  had  been  granted  by  King  George  IV. 
Under  the  energetic  management  of  the  Association  the  business  increased  rapidly, 
and  became  profitable.  Between  1827  and  1857  (inclusive),  1,931,634  tons  of  coal 
were  mined  in  Cape  Breton,  of  which  605,008  tons  were  sent  to  the  United  States. 
Between  1857  and  1870  there  were  sold  at  the  mines  3,323,981  ions.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  these  products  came  from  the  Sydney  field,  but  of  late  years  consid- 
erable exportations  are  being  made  from  tho  mines  at  Glace  Bay,  Cow  Bay  (Block- 
House),  Gowrie,  and  Lingan.  The  Caledonia,  Glace  Bay,  and  Block-House  coals  are 
used  for  making  gas  at  Boston  and  Cambridge,  and  the  gas  of  New  York  is  made 
from  International,  Glace  Bay,  Caledonia,  and  Block-House  coals. 


^1 


i 


154     Route  38. 


LOUISBOURG. 


38.  The  Fortress  of  louisbonrgr. 

Louisbourg  is  reached  (until  the  railway  is  finished)  by  a  weekly  stage 
from  Sydney,  in  24  M.  A  road  runs  hence  15  - 18  M.  N.  E.  along  an  in- 
teresting coast,  to  Cape  Breton  (see  page  149),  passing  the  hamlets  of  Big 
and  Little  Loran,  "named  in  honor  of  the  haughty  house  of  Lorraine." 
Cape  Breton  itself  is  nearly  insulated  by  the  deep  haver  of  Baleine  Cove, 
and  just  off  its  S.  point  is  the  rock  of  Porto  Nuevo,  rising  boldly  from 
the  sea.  Beyond  the  cape  and  the  hamlet  of  Main-a-Dieu  the  Mira  Bay 
road  passes  the  hamlet  of  Catalogne  (18  M.  from  Sydney),  at  the  outlet  of 
the  broad  lagoon  of  the  Catalogne  Lake,  and  follows  the  Mira  River  from 
the  village  of  Mira  Gut  to  the  drawbridge  on  the  Louisbourg  road,  where 
the  farming  hamlet  of  Albert  Bridge  has  been  established  (12  M.  from 
Sydney).  A  road  runs  hence  S.  W.  12  - 14  M.  to  Marion  Bridge,  a  Scot- 
tish settlement  near  the  long  and  narrow  Mira  Lake.  The  road  ascends 
thence  along  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  Eiv^r  to  the  vicinity  of  Loch  Uist 
and  Loch  Lomond  (see  page  147). 

Gabarus  Bay  is  8-10  M.  S.  W.  of  Louisbourg,  and  is  a  deep  and  spa- 
cious but  poorly  sheltered  roadstead.  It  has  a  large  and  straggling  fishi'ng- 
isettlemcnt,  near  the  Gabarus,  Belfry,  and  Mira  Lakes. 

Louisbourg  at  present  consists  of  a  small  hamlet  occupied  by  fisher- 
men, whose  vessels  sail  hence  to  the  stormy  Grand  Banks.  The  adjacent 
country  is  hilly  and  unproductive,  and  contains  no  settlements.  The  har- 
bor is  entered  through  a  passage  10  fathoms  deep,  with  a  powerful  white 
light  on  the  N.  E.  headland,  and  is  a  capaciouc  basin  with  5-7  fathoms 
of  water,  well  sheltered  from  any  wind.  On  Point  Rochfort,  at  the  S.  W. 
side  of  the  harbor,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  French  fortress  and  city. 

"  The  ruins  of  the  once  formidable  batteries,  with  wide  broken  gaps  (blown  up 
by  gunpowder),  preFcnt  a  mt?lancholy  picture  of  past  energy.  The  strong  and  capa- 
cious magazine,  once  the  deposit  of  immense  quantities  of  munitions  of  war,  is  still 
nearly  entire,  but,  hidden  by  the  accumulation  of  earth  and  turf,  now  affords  a  com- 
modious shelter  for  flocks  of  peaceful  sheep,  which  feed  around  the  burial-ground 
where  the  remains  of  many  a  gallant  Frenchman  and  patriotic  Briton  are  deposited ; 
while  beneath  the  clear  cold  wave  may  be  seen  the  vast  sunken  ships  of  war,  whose 
very  bulk  indicates  the  power  enjoyed  by  the  Gallic  nation  ere  England  became 
mistress  of  her  colonies  on  the  shores  of  the  Western  Atlantic,  Desolation  now  sits 
with  a  gha.stly  smile  around  the  once  formidable  bastions.  All  is  silent  except  the 
loud  reverberating  ocean,  as  it  rolls  its  tremendous  surges  along  the  rocky  beach,  or 
the  bleating  of  the  scattered  sheep,  as  with  tinkling  bells  they  return  in  the  dusky 
eolitude  of  eve  to  their  singular  folds."  (Montgomery  Martin.) 

"  If  you  ever  visit  Louisbourg,  you  will  observe  a  patch  of  dark  greensward  on 
Point  Rochfort,  —  the  site  of  the  old  burying-ground.  Beneath  it  lie  the  ashes  of 
hundreds  of  brave  New-Englanders.  No  monument  marks  the  sacred  spot,  but  the 
waves  of  the  restless  ocean,  in  calm  or  storm ,  sing  an  everlasting  requiem  over  the 
graves  of  the  departed  heroes."   (R.  Brown.) 

The  port  of  Louisbourg  was  called  from  the  earliest  times  Havre  d  I'Anglois,  but 
no  important  settlements  were  made  here  until  after  the  surrender  of  Newfoundland 
and  Acadia  to  Great  Britain,  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  Then  the  French  troops  and 
inhabitants  evacuated  Placentia  (N.  F.)  and  came  to  this  place.  In  1714  M.  de  St. 
Ovide  de  Brouillan  was  made  Governor  of  Louisbourg ;  and  the  work  of  building  tin 
fortress  was  begun  about  1720. 


m 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.    Route  SS.      155 


(veekly  stage 
along  an  in- 
mlets  of  Big 
f  Lorraine." 
laleine  Cove, 
boldly  from 
le  Mira  Bay 
the  outlet  of 
a  River  from 
road,  where 
(12  M.  from 
'idge,  a  Scot- 
road  ascends 
of  Loch  Uist 

eep  and  spa- 
gling  fishing- 

ed  by  fisher- 
The  adjacent 
ts.  The  har- 
jwerful  white 
5-7  fathoms 
,  at  the  S.  W. 
5S  and  city. 

;aps  (blown  up 
;roDg  and  capa- 
!  of  war,  is  still 
T  affords  a  com- 
j  burial-ground 
I  are  deposited ; 
i  of  war,  whose 
Dgland  became 
)lation  now  sits 
lent  except  the 
rocky  beach,  or 
rn  in  the  dusky 

greensward  on 
lie  the  ashes  of 
;d  spot,  but  the 
quiem  over  the 


i  I'Anglois,  but 
r  Newfoundland 
ench  troops  and 
1714  M.  de  St. 
:  of  building  th3 


The  powerful  defences  of  "  the  Dunkirk  of  America  "  were  hurried  to  completion, 
and  the  people  of  New  England  "  looked  with  awe  upon  the  sombre  walls  of  Louia- 
bourg.  whoso  towers  rose  like  giants  above  the  northern  seas."  Over  30,000,000 
livrcs  were  drawn  from  the  French  royal  treasury,  and  were  expended  on  the  forti- 
fications of  Louisbourg ;  and  numerous  cargoes  of  building-stone  were  sent  hither 
from  France  (as  if  Cape  Breton  had  not  enough,  and  little  else).  Fleets  of  New- 
England  vessels  bore  lumber  and  bricks  to  the  new  fortress ;  and  the  Acadians  sent 
in  supplies  and  cattle.  For  more  than  20  years  the  French  government  devoted 
all  its  energy  and  resources  to  one  object,  —  the  completion  of  these  fortifications. 
Inhabitants  were  drawn  to  the  place  oy  bounties  ;  and  Louisbourg  soon  had  a  large 
trade  with  France,  New  England,  and  the  West  Indies. 
iHl  The  harbor  was  guarded  by  a  battery  of  30  28-pounder8,  on  Goat  Island  ;  and  by 

the  Grand  (or  Royal)  Battery,  which  carried  30  heavy  guns  and  raked  the  entrance. 
On  the  landward  side  waa  a  deep  moat  and  projecting  bastions ;  and  the  great 
careening-dock  was  opposite.  The  land  and  harbor  sides  of  the  town  were  defended 
by  lines  of  ramparts  and  bastions,  on  which  80  guns  were  mounted;  and  the  West 
Gate  was  overlooked  by  a  battery  of  16  24-pounders.  The  Citadel  was  in  the  gorge 
of  the  King's  Bastion.  In  the  centre  of  the  city  were  the  stately  stone  church, 
nunnery,  and  hospital  of  St.  Jean  do  Dieu.  The  streets  crossed  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  communicated  with  the  wharves  by  five  gates  in  the  harbor- 
ward  wall.  The  fortress  was  in  the  first  system  of  Vauban,  and  required  a  large 
garrison. 

Early  in  1745  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  decermined  to  attack  Louisbourg  with 
all  the  forces  of  the  Province  ;  and  Gov.  Shirley,  the  originator  of  the  enterprise, 
gave  the  militai-y  command  to  Col.  Wm.  Pepperell.  Massachusetts  furnished  3,250 
men ;  New  Hampshire,  300 ;  and  Connecticut,  500  ;  and  George  Whitefield  gave  the 
motto  for  the  army,  "  Fll  desperandum ,  Christo  duce,''^  thus  making  the  enterprise 
a  sort  of  Puritan  crusade.  The  forces  were  joined  at  Canso  by  Commodore  Warren's 
West-India  fleet,  and  a  lauding  was  soon  effected  in  Gabarus  Bay.  T'je  garrison  con- 
sisted of  750  French  veterans  and  1,500  militia,  and  the  assailants  were  "4,000  un- 
disciplined militia  or  volunteers,  officered  by  men  who  had,  with  one  or  two  excep- 
i^  tions,  never  seen  a  shot  fired  in  anger  all  their  lives,  encamped  in  an  open  country, 

....  and  sadly  deScient  in  suitable  artillery."  The  storehouses  up  the  harbor 
were  set  on  fire  by  Vaughan's  New-Hampshire  men  ;  and  the  black  smoke  drove  dowa 
on  the  Grand  Battery,  so  greatly  alarming  its  garrison  that  they  spiked  their  guns 
and  fled.  The  fort  was  occupied  by  the  Americans  and  soon  opened  on  the  city. 
Fascine  batteries  were  erected  at  1,550  and  950  yards  from  the  West  Gate,  and  a 
breaching  battery  was  reared  at  night  within  'j50  yards  of  the  walls.  Amid  the  roar 
of  a  continual  bombardment,  the  garrison  made  sorties  by  sea  and  land;  and  1,500 
of  the  Americans  were  sick  or  wounded,  600  were  kept  out  in  the  country  watching 
the  hostile  Indians,  and  200  had  been  lost  in  a  disastrous  attempt  at  storming  the 
Island  Battery.  Early  in  June,  the  guns  of  the  Circular  Battery  were  all  dis- 
mounted, the  King's  Bastion  had  a  breach  24  feet  deep,  the  town  had  been  ruined 
by  a  rain  of  bombs  and  red-hot  balls,  and  the  Island  Battery  had  been  rendered  un- 
tenable by  the  American  cannonade.  On  the  15th  the  fleet  (consisting  of  the  Superb, 
Sunderland,  Canterbury,  and  Princess  Mary,  60  guns  each  ;  and  the  Launceston, 
Chester,  Lark,  Mermaid,  Hector,  and  Eti/iam,  of  40  guns  each)  was  drawn  up  off 
the  harbor ;  and  the  army  was  arrayed  "  to  march  with  drums  beating  and  colours 
flying  to  the  assault  of  the  West  Gate."  Eut  Gov.  Duchambon  saw  these  ominous 
preparations  and  surrendered  the  works,  :d  avoid  unnecessary  carnage.  "  As  the 
troops,  entering  the  fortress,  beheld  the  strength  of  the  place,  their  hearts  for  the 
H  first  time  sank  within  them.    *  God  has  gone  out  of  his  way,'  said  they,  'in  a  re- 

markable and  most  miraculous  manner,  to  incline  the  hearts  of  the  French  t^^  give 
up  and  deliver  this  strong  city  into  our  hand.'  "  Pepperell  attributed  his  success, 
not  to  his  artillery  or  the  fleet  of  line-of-battle  ships,  but  to  the  prayers  of  New  Eng- 
land, daily  arising  from  every  village  in  behalf  of  the  absent  army.  "  The  news  of 
this  important  victory  filled  New  England  with  joy  and  Europe  with  astonishment." 
Boston  and  London  and  the  chief  towns  of  America  and  England  were  illuminated  ; 
the  batteries  of  London  Tower  fire  J  salutes;  and  King  George  II.  maue  Pepperell  a 
baroi.et,  and  Warren  a  rear-admiral.    (For  the  naval  exploits,  see  page  149.) 

4,130  French  people  were  sent  home  on  a  fleet  of  transports ;  the  8iege-b.Ltterie3 
were  levelled,  and  266  guns  were  mounted  on  the  repaired  walls ;  and  in  the  follow- 
ing April  the  New-England  troops  were  relieved  by  two  regiments  from  Gibraltar, 
and  went  home,  having  lost  nearly  1,000  men.    The  historian  Smollet  designated 


-!■ 


ill 

i 

1     * 

ii    *' 

\m 

I'f  l 

1 

1. 

I                  ; 

156      Route  38.    THE  FORTRESS  OP  LOUISBOURG. 

the  capture  of  Louisbourg,  "  the  most  important  achierement  of  the  war  of  1745  " ; 
and  the  authors  of  the  "  Universal  History  "  considered  it  "  an  equivalent  for  all 
the  successes  of  the  French  upon  the  Continent."  The  siege  is  minutely  described 
(with  maps)  in  Brown's  "  History  of  the  Island  of  Cape  Brt-ton,"  pages  168-248. 

"  That  a  colony  like  Massachusetts,  at  that  time  far  from  being  rich  or  populous, 
Fhould  display  such  remarkable  military  spirit  and  enterprise,  aided  only  by  the 
smaller  Province  of  New  Hampshire ;  that  they  should  equip  both  land  and  sea  forces 
to  attack  a  redoubtable  fortress  called  by  British  officers  impregnable,  and  on  which 
the  French  Crown  had  expended  immense  sums ;  .  .  .  .  that  4,000  rustic  militia, 
whose  officers  were  as  inexperienced  in  war  as  their  men,  although  supported  by 
naval  forces,  should  conquer  the  regular  troops  of  the  greatest  military  power  of  th« 
age,  and  wrest  from  their  hands  a  place  of  unusual  strength,  all  appear  little  short 
of  miracle."    (Beamish  Murdoch  ) 

So  keenly  did  the  French  government  feel  the  loss  of  Louisbourg  that  the  great 
French  Armada  was  sent  out  in  1746  to  retake  it  and  to  destroy  Boston.  After  the 
disastrous  failure  of  this  expedition  (see  page  99),  La  Jonquiere  was  despatched  with 
16  men-of-war  and  28  other  vessels,  on  the  same  errand,  but  was  attacked  by  the  fleets 
of  Anson  and  W.irren  off  Cape  Finisterre,  and  lost  9  ships  of  war,  4,000  men,  and 
$  8,000,000  worth  of  the  convoyed  cargoes.  In  1749  the  war  was  ended,  Louisbourg 
and  Cape  Breton  were  restored  to  France,  and  "  after  four  years  of  warfare  in  all 
parts  of  the  world,  after  all  the  waste  of  blood  and  treasure,  the  war  ended  just 
where  it  began." 

When  war  broke  out  again  between  England  and  Prance,  in  1765,  Louisbourg  was 
blockaded  by  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Boscawen.  England  soon  sent  11  line-of-batMe 
ships,  a  squadron  of  frigates,  and  50  transports,  bearing  6,000  soldiers,  to  reduce  the 
fortress  ;  but  France  was  too  prompt  to  be  surprised,  and  held  it  with  17  sail  of  the 
line  and  10,000  men.  The  vast  English  fleet  got  within  2  M.  of  Louisbourg  and 
then  recoiled,  sailed  to  Halifax,  and  soon  broke  up,  sending  the  army  to  New  York 
and  the  ships  to  England.  France  then  equipped  fleets  at  Toulon  and  Rochfort,  to 
reinforce  Louisbourg ;  but  the  Fon(iroyant,M,  the  Orpheus,  M,  and  other  vessels 
were  captured.  Six  men-of-war  and  sixteen  transports  reached  Louisbourg,  with  a 
great  amount  of  military  supplies. 

Great  Britain  now  fitted  out  an  immense  fleet  at  Spithcad,  consisting  of  the 
Namur,  90  guns  ;  Royal  Williatn,80 ;  Princess  Amelia,  80 ;  Terrible,  74 ;  the  North- 
umberland, Oxford,  Burford,  Vanguard,  Somerset,  and  Lancaster,  70  guns  each ; 
tlie  Devonshire,  Bedford,  Captain,  and  Prince  Frederick,  64  each ;  the  Pembroke, 
Kingston,  York,  Prince  of  Orange,  Defiance,  and  Nottingham,  GO  guns  each;  the 
Centurion  and  Sutherland,  50  each;  the  frigates  Juno,  Grammont,  Nightingale, 
Hunter,  Boreas,  Hind,  Trent,  Port  Mahon,  Diana,  Shannon,  Kennington,  Scar- 
borough, Squirrel,  Hawk,  Beaver,  Tyloe,  and  Halifax;  and  the  fire-ship^  Etna  and 
Lightning,  There  were  also  118  transports,  carrying  13,600  men,  in  17  regiments. 
Bo;>pawen  commanded  the  fleet,  Amherst  the  army,  and  Wolfe  was  one  of  the  briga- 
diers. 

This  powerful  armament  soon  appeared  off  Louisbourg,  and  at  dawn  on  the  8th  of 
June,  1758,  the  British  troops  landed  atGabarus  Bay,  and  pushed  through  the  fatal 
surf  of  Fresh wa  er  Cove,  amid  the  hot  fire  of  the  French  shore-batteries.  After  losing 
110  men  they  carried  the  entrenchments  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  the  French 
fell  back  on  Louisbourg.  The  fortress  had  been  greatly  strengthened  since  the  ."siefe'e 
of  1745,  and  was  defended  by  3,400  men  of  the  Artillery  and  the  regiments  of  Volon- 
taires  JEtrangers,  Artois,  Bourgogne,  and  Cambise,  besides  large  bodies  of  militia  and 
Indians.  In  the  harbor  were  the  ships-of-war.  Prudent,  74  ;  Entreprenant ,  74  ; 
Capricieux,  64;  Cilebre,Qi^;  Bienfdisant,Qi;  Apollon,  50;  Diane, 3Q;  Arithuse, 
36 ;  Fidele,  36  ;  Echo,  32  ;  Biche,  l6  ;  and  Chivre,  16. 

Wolfe's  brigade  then  occupied  the  old  Lighthouse  Battery,  and  opened  fire  on  the 
city,  the  French  fleet,  and  the  Island  Battery.  The  latter  was  soon  completely  de- 
stroyed by  Wolfe's  tremendous  cannonade ;  and  since  the  harbor  was  thus  left 
unguarded.  Gov.  Drucour  sank  the  frigates  Diane,  Apollon,  Biche,  Fiddle,  and 
Chdvre  at  its  entrance.  Meantime  the  main  army  was  erecting  works  on  Green  Hill 
and  opposite  tbe  Queen's  and  Princess's  Bastions,  under  the  fire  of  the  French 
i-amparts  and  ships,  and  annoyed  on  the  rear  by  the  Indians.  During  a  bloody 
sortie  by  the  French,  the  Earl  of  Dundonald  and  many  of  the  Grenadiers  wore 
killed.  The  heavy  siege-batteries  were  advanced  rapidly,  and  poured  in  a  crushing 
fire  on  the  doomed  city,  destroying  the  Citadel,  the  West  Gate,  and  the  barrack.-*. 
The  magazine  of  the  Entreprenant,  74,  blew  up,  and  the  Capricieux  and  Ccicbrc, 


the  war  of  1745  " ; 

equivalent  for  all 

minutely  described 

pages  168-248. 

J  rich  or  populous, 

aided  only  by  the 

land  and  sea  forces 

able,  and  on  which 

,000  rustic  militia, 

3ugh  supported  by 

ilitary  power  of  the 

appear  little  short     |^ 

mrg  that  the  great 
Boston.  After  the 
?as  despatched  with 
ttacked  by  the  fleets 
ar,  4,000  men,  and 
;  ended,  Louisbourg 
rs  of  warfare  in  all 
the  war  ended  just 

765,  Louisbourg  was 

mt  11  line-of-battle 

Idlers,  to  reduce  the 

t  with  17  sail  of  the 

of  Louisbourg  and 

army  to  New  York 

an  and  Rochfort,  to 

4,  and  other  vessels 

Louisbourg,  with  a 

i 
1,  consisting  of  the 
frible,  14:;  the  Nortli- 
fter,  70  guns  each; 
jch;  the  Pembroke, 
,  60  guns  each ;  the 
ntnont,  Nightingale, 
,  Kennington,  Scar- 
fire-shipj  Etna  and 
len,  in  17  regiments, 
vas  one  of  the  briga- 

t  dawn  on  the  8th  of 
led  through  the  fatal 
itteries.  After  losing 
onet.and  the  French 
hened  since  the  siege 
5  regiments  of  Volon- 
(  bodies  of  militia  and 
Entreprenant ,  74  ; 
Diane,  36;  Arit/iuxe, 

nd  opened  fire  on  the 
I  soon  completely  de- 
harbor  was  thus  left 
,  Biche,  Fiddle,  and 

works  on  Green  Hill 
le  fire  of  the  French 
13.    During  a  bloody 

the  Grenadiers  wcro 
poured  in  a  crushing 

e,  and  the  barracks. 
pricieux  and  Ceicbrc, 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.    Route  38.      157 

catching  the  fire  \n  their  sails,  were  burned  at  their  moorings.  The  Arithuse  and 
Echo  ran  out  of  the  harbor  in  foggy  weather,  but  the  latter  was  captured.  Only 
two  French  frigates  remained,  and  these  were  both  captured  by  boats  from  the  fleet, 
after  a  daring  attack.  On  the  26th  of  July  the  Chevalier  de  Drucour  surrendered 
the  city  with  5,637  men,  236  pieces  of  artillery,  and  immense  amounts  of  stores  and 
Bupplies.    The  French  had  lost  about  1,000  men,  the  British  nearly  600,  during  the 

^'^In  England  rang  with  the  tidings  of  the  fall  of  "  the  Dunkirk  of  America,"  special 
prayers  and  thanksgivings  were  read  in  all  the  churches  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  11 
sets  of  colors  from  Louisbourg  were  presented  to  the  King  at  Kensington  Palace, 
whence  they  were  borne  with  great  pomp  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  Marine  insurance 
on  Anglo-American  vessels  fell  at  once  from  30  to  12  per  cent,  because  the  French 
privateers  were  driven  from  the  western  seas  by  the  closing  of  their  port  of  refuge. 

In  1759  the  great  fleet  and  army  of  Gen.  Wolfe  gathered  at  Louisbourg  and  sailed 
away  to  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  Halifax  was  a  fine  naval  station,  and  it  was 
deemed  inexpedient  to  maintain  a  cost'y  garrison  at  Louisbourg ;  so  sappers  and 
miners  were  sent  there  in  the  summer  of  1760,  and  "  in  the  short  space  of  six  months 
all  the  fortifications  and  public  buildings,  which  had  cost  France  25  years  of  labor 
and  a  vast  amount  of  money,  were  utterly  demolished,  —  the  walls  and  glacis  levelled 
into  the  ditch,  — leaving,  in  fact,  nothing  to  mark  their  former  situation  but  Leaps 
of  stones  and  rubbish  Nothing  was  left  standing  but  the  private  houses,  which 
liad  been  rent  and  shattered  during  the  siege,  the  hospital,  and  a  barrack  capable 

of  lodging  300  men All  the  artillery,  ammunition,  stores,  implements,  —  in 

short,  everything  of  the  slightest  value,  even  the  hewn  stones  which  had  decorated 
the  public  buildings,  were  transported  to  Halifax." 

The  British  garrison  was  withdrawn  in  1768,  and  after  the  foundation  of  Sydney 
"  the  most  splendid  town  of  La  Nouvelle  France  "  was  completely  deserted  by  its 
people. 

During  a  year  or  two  past  a  scheme  has  been  agitated  whose  fulfilment  would 
restore  Louisbourg  to  more  than  its  former  importance.  It  is  proposed  to  construct 
a  first-class  railway  from  this  point  to  some  station  on  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway,  crossing  the  Strait  of  Canso  either  by  a  lofty  suspension- 
bridge  or  a  steam  ferry-boat  on  which  the  trains  would  be  carried.  It  is  thought 
that  the  freight  and  passenger  receipts  from  the  coal-mines  and  the  settlements  on 
the  territory  traversed  would  more  than  defray  the  cost  of  construction  and  mainte- 
nance. The  projectors  then  intend  to  make  Louisbourg  a  port  of  call  for  the  ocean- 
steamships,  for  whose  use  this  safe  and  accessible  harbor  is  peculiarly  adapted.  This 
port  is  on  the  60th  parallel  of  W.  longitude,  and  is  11  degrees  E.  of  Boston  and  14  de- 
grees E.  of  New  York,  or  so  much  farther  advanced  on  the  route  to  Europe.  When 
the  through  railway  is  completed  to  Boston,  Montreal,  and  New  York,  it  is  thought 
that  most  of  the  better  class,  at  least,  of  transatlantic  travellers  would  prefer  to  save 
time  and  nearly  1,000  M.  of  ocean-voyaging,  by  leaving  or  taking  the  steamship 
here.  Extensive  surveys  have  already  been  made  in  this  vicinity,  and  real  estate 
in  Louisbourg  has  rapidly  advanced  in  value. 


n 


' 


t 


;)'  m 


1 


I  rt 


i    'i 


1  I 


'     ^! 


158     Route  39. 


ST.  ANNE'S  BAY. 


39.   The  North  Shore  of  Gape  Breton.  —  St.  Anne's  Bay  and 

St.  Paul's  Island. 

Conveyances  may  be  hired  at  Baddeck  (see  page  162)  by  which  to  visit 
St.  Anne's.  The  distance  is  about  10  M.  to  the  head  of  tlie  harbor.  Tho 
first  part  of  the  way  leads  along  tho  shores  of  Baddeck  Bay,  with  the 
promontory  of  Red  Head  over  the  water  to  the  r.  The  road  then  crosses  a 
cold  district  of  denuded  highlands,  and  descends  to  the  *  Valley  of  St.  Anne. 
As  the  harbor  is  approached,  the  traveller  can  see  the  amphitheati'ical 
glens  in  which  the  great  Holy  Fairs  or  annual  religious  communions  of 
the  people  are  held.  These  quaint  Presbyterian  camp-meetings  are  said 
to  be  a  relic  of  the  ancient  churches  in  the  Scottish  Highlands.  The 
shores  of  the  harbor  were  occupied  in  1820  by  immigrants  from  the  High- 
lands, who  are  now  well  located  on  comfortable  farms.  The  road  follows 
the  S.  Arm,  and  to  the  1.  is  seen  the  N.  Arm,  winding  away  among  the 
tall  mountains.  Just  E.  of  the  N.  Arm  is  St.  Anne's  Mt.,  which  is  1,070  ft. 
high,  and  pushes  forward  cliffs  960  ft.  high  nearly  to  the  water's  edge. 

"  There  is  no  ride  on  the  continent,  of  the  kind,  so  full  of  picturesque 
beauty  and  constant  surprises  as  this  around  the  indentations  of  St.  Anne's 
harbor.  High  bluffs,  bold  shores,  exquisite  sea-views,  mountainous  ranges, 
delicious  aii,"  are  found  here  in  abundance.  About  opposite  the  light- 
house on  the  bar,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  is  Old  Fort  Point,  on  which 
the  French  batteries  were  established.  Near  this  point  is  the  hamlet  of 
Englishtown,  chiefly  interesting  as  containing  the  grave  of  the  once  famous 
"Nova-Scotia  Giant."  The  mountains  back  of  Englishtown  ire  over 
1,000  ft.  high,  and  run  N.  E.  to  Cape  Dauphin,  whence  they  repel  the  sea. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions  states  that  "  on  the  N.  side  the  land  is  very 
high,  and  ships-of-war  may  lie  so  near  the  shore  that  a  water-hose  may 
reach  the  fresh  water."  As  to  the  harbo",  the  ancient  description  of 
Charlevoix  still  holds  good :  — 

"  Port  Ste.  Anne,  as  already  stated,  has  before  it  a  very  sure  roadstead  between 
the  Cibou  Islands.  The  port  is  almost  completely  closed  by  a  tongue  of  land,  leav- 
ing passage  for  only  a  single  ship.  This  port,  thus  closed,  is  nearly  two  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  is  oval  in  form.  Ships  can  everywhere  approach  the  land,  and  scarcely 
perceive  the  winds,  on  account  of  its  high  banks  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 
....  The  fishing  is  very  abundant ;  great  quantities  of  good  wood  are  found  there, 
such  as  mrnle,  beech,  wild  cherry,  and  especially  oaks  very  suitable  for  building 
and  masts  "^ing  28-38  ft.  high  ;  marble  is  common  ;  most  of  the  land  good, — iu 
Great  and  Little  Labrador,  which  are  only  a  league  and  a  half  off,  the  soil  is  very 
fertile,  and  it  can  contain  a  very  large  number  of  settlers." 

In  St.  Anne's  Bay  the  English  ship  Chanr.ewell  was  wrecked  in  1597,  and  while 
she  lay  aground  "  there  came  aboord  many  shallops  with  store  of  French  men,  who 
robbed  and  spoyled  all  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  pillaging  the  poore  men  euen 
to  their  very  shirts,  and  vsing  them  in  sauagc  manner ;  whereas  they  should  rather 
as  Christians  haue  aided  them  in  that  distresse."  In  1629  this  harbor  was  occupied 
by  the  Great  St.  Amhew  and  the  Marguerite,  armed  vessels  of  France,  whose  crews, 
together  with  their  English  prisoners,  constructed  a  fort  to  command  the  entrance. 
It  was  armed  with  8  cannon,  1,800  pounds  of  powder,  pikes,  and  muskets,  and  was 
garrisoned  by  40  men.  The  commander  of  the  fleet  raised  the  arms  of  the  King  and 
of  Cardinal  Richelieu  over  its  walls,  and  erected  a  chapel,  for  whoso  core  he  left  two 


INGONISH. 


Route  39.      159 


le's  Bay  and 

which  to  visit 
e  harbor.    Tho 

Bay,  with  the 
d  then  crosses  a 
lley  of  St.  Anne. 
amphitheatrical 
communions  of 
ctings  are  said 
[ighlands.    The 

from  the  High- 
'he  road  follows 
way  among  the 
■hich  is  1,070  ft. 
mter's  edge. 
1  of  picturesque 
ns  of  St.  Anne's 
ntainous  ranges, 
josite  the  light- 
Point,  on  which 
is  the  hamlet  of 
the  once  famous 
htown  are  over 
ey  repel  the  sea. 
the  land  is  very 
water-hose  may 
t  description  of 


roadstead  between 
ngue  of  land,  Icav- 
irly  two  leagues  in 
land,  and  scarcely 
inding  mountains. 
)d  are  found  there, 
litable  for  building 
lie  land  good, — in 
off,  the  soil  is  very 

in  1597,  and  while 
r  French  men,  who 
;he  poore  men  euen 
they  should  rather 
arbor  was  occupied 
fance,  whose  crews, 
nand  the  entrance. 
1  muskets,  and  was 
ms  of  the  King  and 
ose  care  he  left  two 


Jesuits.  He  then  named  the  harbor  St.  Anne's.  Before  the  close  of  that  winter 
more  than  one  third  of  the  troops  died  of  the  scurvy,  and  tho  commandant  assas- 
Binated  liis  lieutenant  on  the  parade-ground.  In  1634  the  Jesuits  founded  an  In- 
dian mission  here,  but  both  this  and  tho  garrison  were  afterwards  withdrawn.  Some 
years  later  a  new  battery  and  settlement  were  erected  hero  by  Nicholas  Denjs.Sieur 
de  Fronsac,  who  traded  hence  with  the  Indians  of  tie  N.  of  Cape  Breton. 

The  valley  of  tho  N.  Arm  of  St.  Anne's  waa  granted,  in  1713,  to  M.  de  Rouville, 
a  captain  in  the  infimtry  of  France,  and  brother  of  that  Hertel  de  Rouville  who  led 
the  forces  that  destroyed  Schenectady,  Deerfleld,  and  Haverhill.  The  N.  Arm  waa 
long  called  Rouville's  River.  At  a  later  day  Costabelle,  Bcaucourt,  ^ubras,  and 
other  Flinch  officers  had  fishing-stations  on  the  bay.  In  1745  a  frigate  from  Com. 
"Warren's  fleet  (then  blockading  Louisbourg)  entered  the  harbor,  and  destroyed  all 
the  property  on  its  shores.  St.  Anne's  Bay  was  afterwards  colled  Port  Dauphin  by 
the  French,  and  the  government  long  hesitated  as  to  whether  the  chief  fortress  of 
Cape  Breton  should  be  located  here  or  at  Louisbourg.  Tho  perfect  security  of  the 
harbor  afforded  a  strong  argument  in  favor  of  St.  Anne's,  and  it  seemed  capable  of 
being  made  impregnable  at  slight  e:ipense.  After  the  foundation  of  Louisbourg  1,000 
cords  of  wood  were  sent  to  that  place  annually  from  St.  Anne's. 

The  road  from  the  Bras  d'Or  to  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  diverges 

from  the  St.  Anne  road  before  reaching  the  harbor,  and  bears  to  the  N.  E., 

along  the  W.  Braach.   It  rounds  the  North-River  Valley  by  a  great  curve, 

and  then  sweeps  up  the  harbor-shore,  under  the  imposing  cliffs  of  St. 

Anne's  Mt.    From  St.  Anne's  to  Ingonish  the  distance  is  about  40  M.,  by 

a  remarkably  picturesque  road  between  the  mountains  and  the  Atlantic, 

on  a  narrow  plain,  which  recalls  Byron's  lines:  — 

"  Tho  mountains  look  on  Marathon, 
And  Marathon  looks  on  the  sea." 

"Grand  and  very  beautiful  are  the  rocky  gorges  and  ravines  which  furrow  the 
hills  and  precipices  between  St.  Anne's  and  Ingonish Equally  grand  and  pic- 
turesque is  the  red  syenitic  escarpment  of  Smoky  Cape,  capped  with  the  cloud 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  with  many  a  lofty  headland  in  the  background, 
and  the  peak  of  the  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  jest  peeping  above  the  far-distant  hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The  proud  headland  of  Cape  Smoky  (the  Cap  Enfumi  of  the  French)  is 
950  ft.  high,  and  runs  sheer  down  into  the  sea.  To  the  W.  there  are  peaks 
1,200-1,300  ft.  high;  and  as  the  road  bends  around  the  deep  bights  to  the 
N.,  it  passes  under  summits  more  than  1,400  ft.  higli.  Among  these  mas- 
sive hills,  and  facing  Cape  Saoky,  is  the  village  of  Ingonish,  inhabited  by 
Scottish  Catholic  fishermen,  800  of  whom  are  found  in  this  district.  On 
the  island  that  shelters  the  harbor  is  a  fixed  white  light,  237  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

Ingonish  was  one  of  the  early  stations  of  the  French.  In  1729  a  great  church  was 
built  here,  whose  foundations  only  remain  now ;  and  in  1849  a  church-bell,  marked 
St.  Malo,  1729,  and  weighing  200  pounds,  was  found  buried  in  tho  sands  of  the 
beach.  The  settlement  hero  was  probably  ruined  by  the  drawing  away  of  its  people 
to  aid  in  holding  Louisbourg  against  the  Anglo-American  forces.  In  x740  Ingonish 
was  the  secoud  town  on  the  island,  and  its  fleet  caught  13,560  quintals  of  fish.  It 
was  destroyed,  in  1745,  by  men-of-war  from  Com.  Warren's  fleet. 

The  hig'aland  region  back  of  Ingonish  has  always  been  famous  for  its  abundance 
of  game,  especially  of  moose  and  caribou.  In  the  winter  of  1789  over  9,000  moose 
were  killed  here  for  the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  brought  ten  shillings  each ;  and 
for  many  years  this  wholesale  slaughter  went  on,  and  vessels  knew  when  they  wero 
approaching  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  by  the  odor  of  decaying  carcasses  which 
came  from  the  shore.  Finally  the  outraged  laws  of  the  Province  were  vindicated  by 
the  occupation  of  Ingonish  by  a  body  of  troops,  whose  duty  it  was  to  restrain  tho 


ICO      Route  39. 


ST.   PAUL'S  ISLAND. 


\  'I 


H 


\      1 
i      '    r 


11 


ii 


I    \ 


moose-hunters  at  •whatever  cost.  Of  late  years  the  moose  have  been  nearly  cxfor. 
minatcd  by  city  sportsnion  nnd  by  tlio  Indians,  who  kill  them  while  helplessly  en- 
tangled  in  the  deep  snow-drifts.  The  government  bus  tberefore  wisely  decreed  that 
no  moose  shall  bo  killed  between  Sept,  1,  1874,  and  .Sept.  1,1877  ;  and  the  possession 
of  any  moose  meat  or  hides  constitutes  a  penal  olTeuce. 

The  highway  ends  at  Ingonish,  nnd  a  trail  crosses  the  mountains  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  to  Aspy  Bay,  an  open  bight  of  the  sea,  into  which  "several  large 
lagoons  empty.  A  specie-ship  was  wrecked  off  this  bay  early  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  and  for  many  years  coins  were  thrown  ashore  during  heavy 
storms.  In  1866  the  first  Atlantic  Ca'^le  r/as  landed  hero.  On  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  Aspy  Bay  is  the  lofty  Sagar-loaf  Mt.,  beyond  which  Cape  North 
runs  out  to  the  N.  E.,  1,000  ft.  high.  Cape  North  is  8  M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  and  between  these  two  points  is  the  St.  Lawrence  Bay, 
on  whose  remote  shores  arc  about  400  inhabitants,  while  about  Cape  North 
arc  nearly  800  more.  Between  Cape  North  and  Cape  Ray,  Newfoundland, 
the  distance  is  65  M.,  and  through  tUis  wide  strait  is  the  middle  entrance 
to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

St.  PauVs  Island. 

St.  Paul's  Island  is  13  M.  E.  N.  E.  of  Cape  North,  and  is  a  vast  mass  of 
rock,  3  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide,  bearing  three  peaks  500  ft.  high,  sur- 
rounded by  tall  cliffs  which  reach  far  below  the  water,  and  indented  by 
the  Trinity  and  Atlantic  )ves.  The  cod,  mackerel,  and  seal  fisheries 
around  the  island  are  ver^-  valuable ;  and  the  adjacent  waters  are  of  great 
depth,  and  form  a  constant  current  to  the  S.  E.  St.  Paul's  Island  has  9 
inhabitants;  a  fixed  white  light  (visible  for  20  M.)  on  the  N.  point;  a  pro- 
vision depot  for  wrecked  sailors  in  Trinity  Cove ;  a  steam  fog-whistle  in 
Atlantic  Cove;  and  on  the  S.  point  a  revolving  white  light  of  the  first 
class,  visible  for  20  M. 

This  island  has  been  one  of  the  most  fatal  points  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  stretching, 
as  it  does,  across  such  an  important  route  of  marine  travel.  Thousands  of  lives  have 
been  lost  here,  and  human  bones  formerly  strewed  the  beaches,  while  anchors, 
chains,  and  other  relics  of  disaster  were  found  in  the  neighboring  waters.  Tli6 
Acadians  of  Cheticamp  used  to  visit  the  island  every  spring,  in  order  to  secure  the 
valuable  parts  of  cargoes  and  wrecks  which  the  sea  threw  up  on  the  shore.  Among 
the  largest  of  the  vessels  lost  here  we.e  the  Horatio,  Canada,  Duncan,  Venus,  a 
transport  with  200  soldiers  (all  drowned),  the  ocean-steamship  Norivegian,  and  the 
ship  Jesiie.  The  latter  was  wrecked  in  mid-winter,  and  30  of  her  people  were  lost ; 
but  11  reached  tho  shore,  and  wandered  about  until  they  were  all  frozen  to  death, 
^Vith  the  prcserit  system  of  lights,  whistles,  and  cannon,  mc3t  of  the  danger  of  this 
island  is  removed. 

'^  A  dome  of  inhospitable  rock  peers  through  the  mist,  one  of  nature's  peniten- 
tiaries, which  no  living  man  would  own,  and  so  has  been  deeded  to  St.  Paul :  Melita 
is  "Men  to  it.  The  saints,  it  appears  to  me,  have  been  gifted  with  the  ruggedest  odds 
and  ends.  ^\Tierever,  on  all  these  cast-iron  shores,  there  is  a  flinty  promontory, 
upon  which  Prometheus  himself  would  have  shuddered  to  be  chained,  there  the 
name  of  an  apostle  has  been  transfixed.  Yonder  is  Cape  North ,  the  stony  arrow- 
head of  Cape  Breton,  a  headland,  rather  a  multitudinous  group  of  mountain  head- 
lands, draped  with  gloomy  grandeur,  against  the  black  cliffs  of  which  the  surf  is 
now  firing  its  snowy  rockets All  in  all,  this  is  a  fine  termination  of  the  pic- 
turesque isle.  Steep  and  lofty,  its  summits  are  darkened  by  steepled  evergreens, and 
its  many  sides  gashed  with  horrid  fissures  and  ravines."    (L.  L.  Noble.) 


THE  BRAS  D'OR  LAKES.        Route  40.      161 


ve  been  nearly  cxfcr. 
rn  while  helplessly  cn> 
re  wisely  decreed  that 
'7 ;  and  the  possession 

le  mountains  to  the 
which  several  large 
ly  early  in  the  pres- 
shore  during  heavy 
ere.  On  the  N.  W. 
which  Cape  North 
M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from 
e  St.  Lawrence  Bay, 
le  about  Cape  North 
lay,  Newfoundland, 
:he  middle  entrance 


nd  is  a  vast  mass  of 
3  500  ft.  high,  sur- 
r,  and  indented  by 
1,  and  seal  fisheries 
;  waters  are  of  great 
Paul's  Island  has  9 
the  N.  point ;  a  pro- 
team  fog-whistle  in 
te  light;  of  the  first 


antic  coast,  stretching, 
rhousands  of  lives  have 
caches,  while  anchors, 
ghboring  waters.  Tli«f 
in  order  to  secure  the 
on  the  shore.  Among 
da,  Duncan,  Vemts,  a 
ip  Nonvegiatt,  and  the 
f  her  people  were  lost ; 
ire  all  frozen  to  death. 
it  of  the  danger  of  this 

le  of  nature's  peniten- 
Jed  to  St.  Paul :  Melita 
(vith  the  ruggedest  odda 
s  a  flinty  promontory, 
be  chained,  there  the 
orth,  the  stony  arrow- 
oup  of  mountain  head- 
Fs  of  which  the  surf  is 
ermination  of  the  pic- 
teepled  evergreens,  and 
L.  Noble.) 


40.   The  Bras  d*Or  Lakes. 

The  "  JnlnnrI  Route"''  from  Sii'lnnj  to  Halifax.  The  steamer  Ntptune  leaves  Syd- 
ney on  Tni'sdiiy  and  Thursday  lit  0  A.  m.,  and  traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  Bras 
d'Or,  stopjilngat  IJaddeck  and  other  villages.  A  train  of  stages  and  wagons  loaves 
the  landing  at  West  Hay,  on  .  or  arrival,  and  crosses  to  Port  Ilawkesbury  (1.3  M.), 
whence  pas.songers  pass  to  Pictou  by  steamer,  and  thence  by  milway  to  Halifax  or 
St  John.  The  fare  from  Sydney  to  Halifax  is  ,<?  8 ;  from  Sydney  to  West  Bay,  $  3. 
The  time  of  the  passage  from  Sydney  to  West  Bay  is  from  Vi  to  14  hours.  Close  con- 
nections are  usually  made  on  this  route,  and  also  on  the  same  lino  in  an  opposite 
direction  (Halifax  to  Sydney).  The  journey  from  Sydney  to  Halifax  is  much  to  be 
preferred  to  the  journey  in  the  opposite  direction,  because  in  going  S.  the  lakes  are 
traversed  by  daylight,  while  in  going  N,  much  of  the  voyage  is  at  night.  The  Nep' 
tune  is  a  second-class  river-boat,  smaller  than  the  Hose  Standis/i,  of  Huston,  or  the 
Sylvan  Stream,  of  Now  York,  but  affords  fair  accommodations  to  passengers. 

Al'ter  leaving  the  wharves  of  Sydney,  the  steamer  passes  up  to  N.  Syd- 
ney, where  she  makes  a  short  stop,  then  runs  to  the  N.  E.  out  of  Sydney 
Harbor,  with  the  shafts  and  villages  of  the  Sydney  Minos  on  the  1.  After 
rounding  Cranberry  Head  the  course  is  N.  W.  for  8-9  M.,  in  the  ocean, 
passing  the  surf-beaten  Bird  Bock  on  the  1.,  while  the  stately  mountains 
towards  St.  Anne's  and  Ingonish  (see  page  159)  are  seen  in  advance. 
When  within  2-3  M.  of  Point  Aconi  the  vessel  turns  in  to  the  1.,  and  soon 
enters  the  strait  called  the  *  Little  Bras  d'Or,  a  narrow  and  river-like  pas- 
sago  thi'ough  which  the  tide  sweeps  rapidly,  and  which  is  impassable  for 
largo  craft.  The  water-view  is  sometimes  limited  to  a  few  score  feet,  so 
tortuous  and  landlocked  is  the  channel ;  and  there  are  several  small  and 
picturesque  hamlets  on  the  shore,  mostly  inhabited  by  immigrants  from 
the  Hebrides. 

On  the  r.  side  of  the  channel  is  Boularderie  Island,  which  is  about  35 
M.  long  by  2  -  8  M.  wide,  and  supports  a  small  farming  population.  In 
1713  this  rich  and  beautiful  i.sland  was  granted  by  the  French  Crown  to 
M.  de  la  Boularderie,  an  officer  of  the  French  navj',  who  had  greatly  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of  Port  Royal  and  of  Placentia.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  Highlanders,  who  number  about  1,300,  and  have  several 
small  hamlets.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  the  coal-field  of  Point  Aconi, 
which  has  not  been  operated  for  several  years. 

The  *  Great  Bra."?  d'Or  is  the  channel  on  the  W.  side  of  Boularderie,  and 
is  always  used  by  ships  and  large  coasters  bound  into  the  lakes.  It  has 
from  5  to  38  fathoms  of  water,  and  is  much  grander  in  scenery  than  is  the 
E.  channel.  The  Neptune  traverses  this  strait  fortnightly,  rounding  Point 
Aconi,  and  approaching  the  sea-repelling  mountains  of  St.  Anne's  and 
Ingonish.  On  the  N.  are  seen  the  Ciboux  Islands,  sheltering  St.  Anne's 
Bay  (see  page  158),  and  marked  by  a  revolving  red-and-white  light,  which 
is  visible  for  14  M.  On  the  r.  the  dark  and  wind-swept  Cape  Dauphin  is 
approached,  terminating,  in  a  peak  1,045  ft.  high,  the  massive  ridge  which 
occupies  the  peninsula  of  St.  Anne.  Beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Black  Rock 
Point  (1.  side),  the  ste.'imer  passes  through  a  strait  ^  M.  wide,  and  then 
enters  the  Great  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  followed  to  the 


*«*■ 


> 
j. 

;• 


i 

I 


1G2      Route  40. 


BADDECK. 


S.  W.  for  nearly  30  M.,  between  the  mountains  of  St.  Anne  and  the  high- 
lands of  Boulnrdcrlo. 

The  Neptune  soon  traverses  tlio  narrow  channel  of  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  enters  a  broader  bay.  Beyond  Grove  Point  it  readies  a  beautiful 
sound  which  is  followed  for  25  M.,  and  is  3-4  M.  wide.  (It  is  called  St. 
Andrew's  Channel  on  the  Admiralty  charts,  but  that  name  is  elsewhere  ap- 
plied to  the  East  Bay.)  Near  George  Mt.,  on  the  1.,  are  the  low  shores  of 
Long  Island ;  and  the  steamer  sometimes  stops  off  Beaver  Harbor,  or  Bois- 
dale.  The  con  se  is  now  laid  towards  the  W.  shore,  rounds  Kempt  Head, 
the  S.  extremity  of  Boularderio  Island,  and  passes  Coflin  Island  on  the  r., 
beyond  which  is  seen  the  long  channel  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or.  The  course 
is  nearly  N.  W.,  and  lies  between  Red  Point  (r.  side)  and  Mackay  ''oint  (1. 
Biuuj,  which  are  about  3  M.  apart.  In  front  is  seen  the  village  of  Baddeck, 
•while  inside  of  the  points  Baddeck  Bay  extends  to  the  r.  and  St.  Patrick's 
Channel  to  the  1. 

Baddeck  ( Telegraph  Ilouse^  comfortable ;  Bras  (V  Or  Jlotel)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Victoria  County,  and  the  chief  village  on  the  Bras  d'Or.  It  has 
three  churches,  a  court-house,  and  a  quaint  little  jail,  and  is  the  centre  of 
a  group  of  farming-settlements  whose  aggregate  population  is  1,749,  The 
harbor  can  accommodate  vessels  of  500  tons,  and  from  this  point  several 
cargoes  of  produce-  are  annually  sent  to  Newfoundland.  Gold  has  been 
found  in  the  vicinity,  and  there  is  a  saline  spring  farther  down  the  shore. 
This  locality  was  first  visited  by  the  French,  from  whom  it  received  the 
name  Bedeque,  ^\ncQ  Scotticized  to  JBa(Z(/ecZ;  (accent  on  the  last  syllable). 
It  was  first  settled  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  Royal  Rangers,  and  in 
1793  there  were  10  inhabitants  here. 

"  Although  it  was  Sunday,  I  could  not  but  notice  that  Baddeok  was  a  clean- 
looking  Tillage  of  white  wooden  houpes,  of  perhaps  7  800  inhabitants ;  that  it 
stretched  along  the  shore  for  a  mile  or  more,  straggling  off  into  farm-houfea  at  each 
end,  lying  for  the  most  part  on  the  sloping  curve  of  the  bay.  There  were  a  few 
country-looking  stores  and  shops,  and  on  the  shore  three  or  four  rather  decayed 
and  shaky  wharves  ran  into  the  water,  and  a  lew  schooners  lay  at  anchor  near 
them  ;  and  the  usual  decaying  warehouses  leaned  about  the  docks.  A  peaceful  and 
perhaps  a  thriving  place,  but  not  a  bustling  place 

"  Having  attributed  the  quiet  of  Baddeck  on  Sunday  to  religion,  we  did  not  know 
to  what  to  lay  the  quiet  on  Monday.  But  its  peaccfulness  continued.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  the  farmers  began  to  farm,  and  the  traders  to  trade,  and  the  sailors  to 
Bail ;  but  the  tourist  folt  that  he  had  come  into  a  place  of  rest.  The  promise  of  the 
red  sky  the  evening  before  was  fulfilled  in  another  royal  day.  There  was  an  inspira- 
tion in  the  air  that  one  looks  for  rather  in  the  mountains  than  on  the  sea-coast,  it 
eeemed  like  some  new  and  gentle  compound  of  sea-air  and  land-air,  which  was  the 
perfection  of  breathing  material.  In  this  atmosphere,  which  seems  to  flow  over  all 
these  Atlantic  isles  at  this  season,  one  endures  a  great  deal  of  exercise  with  little 
fatigue ;  or  he  is  content  to  sit  still  and  has  no  feeling  of  sluggishness.  Mere  living 
is  a  kind  of  happiness,  and  the  easy-going  traveller  is  satisfied  with  little  to  do  and 
less  to  see.  Let  the  reader  not  understand  that  we  are  recommending  him  to  go  to 
Baddeck.  Far  from  it.  .  •.  .  .  There  are  few  whom  it  would  pay  to  go  a  thousand 
miles  for  the  sake  of  sitting  on  the  dock  at  Baddeck  when  the  sun  goes  down,  and 
watching  the  purple  lights  on  the  islands  and  the  distant  hills,  the  red  flush  on  the 
horizon  and  on  the  lake,  and  the  creeping  on  of  gray  twilight.  You  can  see  all  this 
as  well  elsewhere?    I  am  not  so  sure.    There  is  a  harmony  of  beauty  about  the 


BADDECK. 


Route  JiO.      1G3 


!  nnd  the  liigh- 

Ittlo  Bras  d'Or 

lies  a  beautiful 

It  is  called  St. 

is  elsewhere  ap- 

low  shores  of 

Harbor,  or  Bois- 

Is  Kempt  Head, 

sland  on  the  r., 

Or.  The  course 

ilackay  ''oint  (1. 

ago  of  Baddeck, 

ind  St.  Patrick's 

ttel)  is  the  capi- 
as d'Or.  It  has 
I  is  the  centre  of 
m  is  1,749.  The 
lis  point  several 
Gold  has  been 
down  the  shore. 
1  it  received  the 
the  last  syllable). 
1  Rangers,  and  in 


Ideok  was  a  clean- 
habitants  ;  that  it 
"arm-houses  at  each 
There  were  a  few 
four  rather  decayed 
lay  at  anchor  near 
is.    A  peaceful  and 

n,  we  did  not  know 
itinued.  I  have  no 
,  and  the  sailors  to 

The  promise  of  the 
h.ore  was  an  inspirn- 

on  the  sea-coast,  it 
-air,  which  was  the 
ems  to  flow  over  all 

exercise  with  little 
hness.  Mere  livintr 
ith  little  to  do  and 
ading  him  to  go  to 
,y  to  go  a  thousand 
sun  goes  down,  and 
he  red  flush  on  the 
You  can  see  all  this 
f  beauty  about  the 


Urns  d'Or  at  Baddeck  which   is  lacking  in  many  sronos  of  moro  prctcnalon." 
(Charles  Dudlky  Warner's  Baddeck;  and  that  Hart  of  Thing.) 

Tlic  tourist  wiio  stops  at  Baddeck  should  visit  the  Indian  village  which 
occupies  a  grassy  point  near  the  town.  It  pertains  to  one  of  the  clans  of 
the  Mlcmac  tribe,  and  usually  has  12-15  wigwams.  Visitors  are  received 
with  a  not  unkindly  indiircrcnce,  and  may  here  study  Indian  domestic 
life,  the  curious  manner  of  carrying  babies,  and  the  architecture  of  tho 
wigwam.  Some  of  the  people  can  talk  Knglish.  Tho  visitor  should  en- 
deavor to  see  one  of  tho  Micmac  Catliolic  prayer-books,  printed  (at  Vienna) 
in  a  singular  hieroglyphic,  and  bought  by  the  Indians  at  tho  Trappist  mon- 
astery in  Tracadie.  T lie  camp  at  Baddeck  is  broken  up  in  tho  autumn 
and  the  people  retire  to  their  reservations  near  tho  hunting-grounds. 

The  Micmacs  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Breton  still  retain  many  of  their  ancient 
customs,  and  are  of  purer  blood  than  any  other  tribe  on  tho  Atlantic  coast.  They 
number  about  1,G00  (and  1,41X)  in  New  Brunswick),  and  occupy  several  reservationa 
in  tho  Province,  whore  they  are  cared  for  and  protected  by  tlic  Dominion  govern- 
ment. Under  tills  paternal  care  (stroniily  contrasting  with  the  Indian  policy  of  tho 
United  States)  the  aborigines  are  steadily  Increasing  in  numbers  and  approaching  a 
better  standard  of  civilization,  and  are  "loyal  and  useful  subjects  of  their  "great 
mother,"  Queen  Victoria.  Tho  discipline  of  families  is  well  preserved  by  the  use  of 
corporeal  puninhmeiit.  \Varm  parental  afl'ection  is  a  strongly  marked  feature,  and 
the  subordination  of  tho  women  is  still  maintained,  though  ameliorated  by  the  in- 
fluences of  civilization.  The  Micmacs  have  exchanged  their  former  belief  in  and 
worship  of  tho  hostile  principles  of  good  and  evil  for  tl-  ^  creed  of  the  Uomaa  Cath- 
olic Church,  of  which  they  are  devout  communicant<!. 

Their  language  has  many  curious  verbal  coincidences  wl-h  that  of  the  Gaelic  race, 
and  is  said  to  be  "  copious,  flexible,  and  expressive."  Philologists  have  also  traced 
a  marked  analogy  between  the  Greek  and  Micmac  languages,  basing  thereon  a  sharp 
rebuke  to  Kenan's  flippant  attack  on  the  aboriginal  tongues  of  America. 

Baddeck  to  Whycocomagh,  see  Route  41.  Baddeck  to  St.  Anne's  Bay, 
sec  Route  39.  A  road  runs  from  this  point  nearly  N.  for  10  M.  to  the 
forks  of  tho  Big  Baddeck  River,  where  trout  are  found.  To  the  N.  are 
the  Baddeck  Mts.,  an  unexplored  and  savage  highland  region  which  ex- 
tends for  60  M.  to  the  N.,  as  for  as  Cape  North,  with  a  breadth  of  15-25 
M.  This  mountain-region  has  been  the  favorite  hunting-ground  for  the 
moose  and  caribou  (none  of  which  can  be  shot  between  1874  and  1877, 
according  to  the  Provincial  game-law),  and  it  also  contains  bears,  wolves 
and  foxes,  rabbits  and  hares,  beaver,  mink,  and  muskrats. 

The  Margaree  River  may  be  reached  from  Baddeck  (in  28  M.)  by  a 
picturesque  road,  ascending  the  long  valley,  and  crossing  the  Hunter's 
Mt.,  with  fine  views  over  the  Bras  d'Or.  The  pleasant  rural  district  of 
the  Middle  Valley  is  then  traversed,  and  the  road  leads  through  a  remark- 
able pass  of  the  hills  and  enters  the  rich  valley  of  the  Margaree,  famous 
foe  its  fishing  (see  Route  42).  Visitors  to  this  district  usually  board  in 
tho  farm-houses,  where  plain  and  substantial  fare  is  given. 

The  Middle  River  lies  to  the  W.  of  Baddeck,  and  is  appr  >ached  by  the  Whyco- 
comagh road  (Route  41).  The  valley  haa  over  1,000  inhabitants,  of  the  Gaelic  High- 
land race,  many  of  whom  are  unacquainted  with  the  English  language.  Near  their 
bettlementa  are  prolific  trout-streams,  where  fine  sport  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  early 
summer.  The  chief  settlements  are  respectively  12, 13,  and  16  M.  firom  Baddeck, 
and  near  the  head  of  the  river  is  au  undeveloped  gold  district.    A  few  milea  up  this 


1 

I 

■ 

1 

i    .; 

^1  i  ^ . 


N 


104     Route  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


river  ia  "  a  Gaelic  settlement  of  farmers  The  river  here  flows  througl^  lovely  mead- 
ows, sandy,  fertile,  and  sheltered  by  hills,  —  a  green  Eden,  one  of  the  few  peaceful 
inhabited  spots  in  the  world.  1  could  conceive  of  no  news  coming  to  these  Iligh- 
landers  later  than  the  defeat  of  the  Pretender." 

in  1801  the  total  population  of  the  Island  of  Cape-Breton  was  2,513,  including 
Englishmen,  Acadiane,  and  Micmacs.  In  1802  the  first  emigrant-ship  arrived  at 
Sydney  from  Scotland,  and  since  that  time  over  25,000  Scottish  immigrants  have 
landed  and  settled  on  this  island.  They  rapidly  spread  over  the  W.  coast  and  occu- 
pied the  shores  of  the  ilras  d'Or  and  its  connected  waters,  and  Cape  Breton  is  now, 
and  probably  will  ever  be,  a  Scottish  land.  After  the  dispersal  of  the  Highland  clans 
and  the  final  pacification  of  Northern  Scotland,  the  chieftains  and  nobles  found  it 
more  profitable  to  devote  their  estates  to  catMe-raising  than  to  maintain  the  old  ten- 
antry system.  So  thousands  of  poor  tenant-farmers  were  expelled  from  their  hold- 
ings and  their  ancient  homes  to  make  room  for  deer-parks  or  shoep-farms  among 
the  glens.  Driven  forth  against  their  will,  they  crossed  the  Atlantic  to  settle  on 
the  New- World  shores,  in  a  fairer  but  less  honored  land.  The  selfish  policy  of  the 
powerful  nobles  depopulated  broad  districts  of  the  Highlands.  "  Many  who  had 
friends  in  the  colonies,  and  knew  what  they  had  to  expect,  emigrated  with  great 
alacrity  ;  but  thousands,  who  had  no  such  desire,  on  the  contmry  the  greatest 
repugnance  to  leave  the  land  of  their  fathers,  the  familiar  hills,  and  the  green 
slopes  of  Lochaber,  were  heart-broken  at  the  idea  of  being  separated  from  them  by 
u  thousand  leagues  of  raging  sea."  This  hardy  rural  population  is  peculiarly  adapted 
to  develop  a  new  country  like  Cape  Breton,  and  can  also  endure  the  great  fluctu- 
ations of  the  climate,  which  range  from  S2'  below  zero  to  96°  above.  The  descend- 
ants of  these  immigrants  are  superior  to  tbe  native  Highlanders,  both  physically 
and  mentally,  and  pav  more  attention  to  the  education  cf  their  children  and  to  the 
general  estate  of  the  nation.  

On  leaving  Baddeck  the  steamer  runs  out  around  Mackay's  Point,  and 
ascends  the  *  Little  Bras  cV  Or  Lake,  to  the  S.  W.  This  sheet  of  water  is 
5-6  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  on  the  E.  by  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrew 
and  the  hills  back  of  Sunacadio  and  Christmas  Island,  and  on  the  W.  by 
the  highlands  of  the  Watchabaktchkt  peninsula. 

"  The  most  electric  American,  heir  of  all  the  uervous  diseases  of  all  the 
age«,  could  not  but  find  peace  in  this  scene  of  tranquil  beauty,  and  sail 
on  into  a  great  and  deepening  contentment.  Would  the  voyage  could  last 
for  an  age,  Avlth  the  same  sparkling  but  tranquil  sea,  and  the  same  en- 
vironment of  hills,  near  and  remote.  The  hills  approached  and  fell  away 
hi  lines  of  undulating  grace,  draped  with  a  tender  color  which  helped  to 
carry  the  imagination  beyond  the  earth. 

'•  Certainly,  as  we  glided  out  upon  the  summer  waters  and  began  to 
get  the  graceful  outline  of  the  widening  shores,  it  seemed  as  if  we  had 

taken  passage  to  the  Fortunate  Isles It  was  enough  to  sit  on  deck 

forward  of  the  wheel-house,  and  absorb,  by  all  the  senses,  the  delicious 
day.  With  such  weather  perpetual  and  such  scenery  alway.s  present,  sin  in 
this  world  would  soon  become  an  impossibility."   (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

12-15  M.  from  Baddeck  is  the  *  Strait  of  Barra  (or  Grand  Narrows), 
so  named  because  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  shores  came  from  the 
island  of  Barra,  in  the  Hebrides.  The  strait  is  picturesque,  and  is  2  M. 
long  and  1  M.  wide.  On  the  shore  are  a  conspicuous  Catholic  church  and 
a  lighthouse ;  and  the  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  Campbells  and  McNeils. 

The  steamer  now  enters  the  *  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake,  a  noble  expanse 
of  water  with  a  depth  of  from  15  to  57  fathoms.    It  is  difficult  to  state  its 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


Route  Ifi.     1G5 


iup;\'  lovely  mead- 
:  the  few  peaceful 
ng  to  these  lligh- 

s  2,513,  including 
it-ship  arrived  at 
immigrants  have 
r.  coast  and  occu- 
,pe  Breton  is  now, 
lie  Highland  clans 
d  nobles  found  it 
ntain  the  old  ten- 
l  from  their  hold- 
hc^'p-farms  among 
antic  to  settle  on 
Ifish  policy  of  the 
"  Many  who  had 
grated  with  great 
trary  the  greatest 
Is,  and  the  green 
ited  from  them  by 
peculiarly  adapted 
!  the  great  tluctu- 
ve.    The  descend- 
•s,  both  physically 
ibildrea  and  to  the 


iay's  Point,  and 
slieet  of  water  is 
a  of  St.  Andrew    * 
id  on  the  W.  by 

iseases  of  all  the 
beauty,  and  sail 
royage  could  last 
md  the  same  en- 
led  and  fell  away 
which  helped  to 

ers  and  began  to 
ned  as  if  we  had 
rh  to  sit  on  deck 
ses,  the  delicious 
ly.s  present,  sin  in 
s'er's  Baddeck.) 
Grand  Narrows), 
es  came  from  the 


ique, 


and  is  2  M. 


tiiolic  church  and 
Us  and  McNeils. 

a  noble  expanse 
lifficult  to  state  its 


size,  on  account  of  the  numerous  deep  bays,  but  from  the  Strait  of  Barra 
to  the  S.  shore  it  is  18  M.  long  (N.  and  S.),  and  from  Malagawdatchkt  it  is 
nearly  20  M.  (E.  and  W.).  From  the  head  of  West  Bay  to  the  head  of 
East  Day,  a  vessel  could  sail  in  a  straight  course  nearly  50  M. 

"  The  Bras  d'Or  is  t'.io  most  beautiful  salt-water  lake  I  have  ever  seen,  and  more 

beautiful  than  we  had  imagined  a  body  of  salt  water  could  be Tlie  water  seeks 

out  all  the  low  places,  and  ramifies  the  interior,  running  away  into  lovely  bays  and 
lagoons,  leaving  slender  tongues  of  land  and  picturesque  islands,  and  bringing  into 
tht'  recesses  of  the  land,  to  the  remote  country  farms  and  settlements  the  Havor  of 
salt,  and  the  fish  and  moUusks  of  the  briny  sea.  There  is  very  little  tide  at  any 
time,  so  that  the  shores  are  clean  and  sightly  for  the  most  part,  like  those  of  a  fresh- 
water ];ikc.  It  has  all  the  pl(- isantuess  of  a  fre-h-water  lake,  with  all  the  advan- 
tages of  .1  salt  one.  In  the  s  reams  which  run  into  it  .arc  the  speckled  trout,  tho 
sliad,  and  the  salmon ;  out  of  its  depths  are  hooked  the  cod  and  the  mackerel,  and 
in  its  bavs  fatten  the  oyster.  This  irregular  lake  is  about  100  M.  long,  if  you  meas- 
ure it  skilfully,  and  in  some  places  '0  M.  broad;  but  so  indented  is  it,  that  lam 
not  sure  but  one  would  need,  as  we  were  informed,  to  ride  1,000  M.  to  go  round  it, 
following  all  its  incursions  into  the  land.  The  hills  around  it  are  never  more  than 
5  -  GOO  ft.  high,  but  they  are  high  enough  for  reposeful  beauty,  and  offer  everywhere 
pleasing  lines.''    (Warner's  BaiJdeck  ) 

Soon  after  passing  the  Strait  of  Barra  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Rix^er 
Denys  is  seen  on  the  r.  Deep  ship-channels  may  be  followed  thither,  pass- 
ing at  first  through  a  cluster  of  islets,  and  then  into  the  North  Basin, 
whence  the  Portage  Inlet  runs  N.  to  within  ^  M.  of  the  Whycocomagh 
Basin.  The  Inner  Basin  is  7  M.  long  and  2  -  3  M.  wide,  and  is  sometimes 
visited  by  ships,  which  load  here  with  lumber  for  England.  The  River 
Denys  debouches  into  the  S.  W.  angle  of  this  basin.  There  are  five  ham- 
lets of  from  150  to  300  inhabitants  eich,  situated  on  the  basins  and  tho 
river,  most  of  the  peoplo  being  from  the  Western  Isles  of  Scotland. 

The  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  Bras  d'Or  was  Bidenuboch;  St.  Patrick's  Channel 
was  called  (hiamecli;  the  lliver-Denys  Basin,  Mirminis^iiasli ;  the  West  Bay,  Paque- 
lacadie;  and  the  East  Bay,  Piscabouask.  For  the  convenience  of  trading  with  tho 
numerous  Indians  who  inhabited  these  shores,  M.  Denys  established  his  forts  at  St. 
Peters  and  St.  Anne's ;  but  there  is  no  record  of  settlements  by  the  French  on  the 
lakes.    The  chief  seat  of  the  Indians  is  now  on  the  shore  where 

"  Escasoni's  fountains 
Pour  down  their  crystal  tide." 

The  beautiful  basin  and  river  of  Denys  were  named  in  honor  of  their  discoverer, 
Nicholas  Denys,  Sieur  do  Fronsac,  who  was  appointed  by  King  Louis,  in  1654, 
"  Governor  and  Lieutcnant-General "  of  Cape  Breton  and  the  adjacent  shores. 

When  the  steamer  is  about  4  RI.  from  the  Strait  of  Barra,  Benacadie 
Point  is  seen  on  the  1.,  7-8  M.  distant,  below  which  is  the  great  opening 
of  the  East  Bay  or  St.  Andrew's  Channel,  running  in  to  the  N.  E.  for 
nearly  25  M.  (see  page  147).  10-12  M.  below  the  strait  is  the  open'ng  of 
the  long  and  sinuous  harbor  of  Malagawdatchkt,  which  approaches  the 
marble  formations  of  the  western  highlands,  and  has  a  village  of  350  in- 
habitants.   To  the  S.  E.  are  the  islands  off  St.  Peter's  Inlet, 

The  steamer  now  enters  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or,  which  is 
called  the  West  Bay,  or  St.  George's  Channel,  and  is  about  15  M.  long  and 
7  M.  wide.    It  contains  numerous  islands,  and  is  separated  from  the  River- 


■! 


j 

ll         I 


1G6     Route  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


Denys  Basin  by  a  range  of  massive  highlands  on  the  N.  The  N.  shore 
hills  are  700-770  ft.  high,  and  those  on  the  S.  siiore  are  250-620  ft.  high. 
The  shores  are  thinly  inhabited,  and  the  only  liamlets  are  at  the  head  of 
the  channel.  (For  the  rest,  the  Editor  lias  all  these  shores  minutely  out- 
lined on  the  Admiralty  chart  now  before  him;  but  what  shall  it  profit  tlio 
traveller  to  know  the  precise  locality  of  the  Crammond  Isles,  or  Calder 
Hill,  or  Ballam  Head?) 

"  The  only  other  thing  of  note  the  Bras  d'Or  offered  us  before  we  reached  West 
Bay  was  the  finest  show  of  medusae  or  jelly-fish  that  could  be  produced.  At  first 
there  were  dozens  of  these  disk-shaped  transparent  creatures,  and  then  hundreds, 
Btarring  the  water  like  marguerites  sprinkled  on  a  meadow,  and  of  sizes  from  tbat 
of  a  teacup  to  a  dinner-plate.  We  soon  ran  into  a  school  of  them,  a  convention,  a 
herd  as  extensive  as  the  vast  buffalo  droves  i>n  the  plains,  a  collection  as  thick  as 
clover-blossoms  in  a  field  in  June,  miles  of  them  apparently  ;  and  at  length  the  boat 
had  to  push  its  way  through  a  mass  of  them  which  covered  the  water  like  the  leaves 
of  the  pond-lily,  and  filled  the  deeps  far  down  with  their  beauti*'  «.l  contracting  and 
expanding  forms.  I  did  not  suppose  there  were  so  many  jelly-fisb  ;s  in  all  the  world." 
(Warner's  Baddet.k.) 

"The  scenery  of  the  lakes  is  exceedingly  striking  and  diversified.  Long  rocky 
cliffs  and  escarpments  rise  in  some  places  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge ;  in  others, 
undulating  or  rolling  hills  predominate,  fringed  0.1  the  shores  by  low  white  cliffs  of 
gypsum  or  red  conglomerate  ;  whilst  the  deep  basins  and  channels,  which  branch 
off  in  all  directions  from  the  central  expanse  of  waters,  studded  with  innumerable 
islets  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  spruce  and  hemlock,  present  views  the  most 
picturesque  and  diver,sificd  imaginable."    (Brown.) 

"  The  scenery  of  this  vast  inlet  is  in  some  places  beautifully  picturesque,  and  in 
some  others  monotonous  and  uninteresting,  but  in  many  parts  of  a  sublime  charac- 
ter, which  exhibits  the  sombre  gloom  of  pine  forests,  the  luxuriant  verdure  of  broad 
valleys  and  wooded  mountains,  and  the  wild  features  of  lofty  promontories  frowning 
in  stubborn  ruggedness  over  the  waters  of  the  rivers  ard  inlets."    (M'Gregor.) 

"  So  wide  is  it,  and  so  indented  by  broad  bays  and  deep  coves,  that  a  coasting 
journey  around  it  is  equal  in  extent  to  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  Besides  the 
distant  mountains  that  rise  proudly  from  the  remote  shores,  there  are  many  noble 
islands  in  its  expanse,  and  forest-covered  peninsulas,  bordered  with  beaches  of  glit- 
tering white  pebbles.  But  over  ail  this  wide  landscape  there  broods  a  spirit  of 
primeval  solitude For,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  Golden  Arm  is  a  very  use- 
less piece  of  water  in  this  part  of  the  world  ;  highly  favored  as  it  is  by  nature,  land- 
locked, deep  enough  for  vessels  of  all  burden,  easy  of  access  on  the  Gulf  side,  free 
from  fogs,  and  only  separated  from  the  ocean  at  its  southern  end  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land,  about  J  M.  wide  ;  abounding  in  timber,  coal,  and  gypsum,  and  valuable  for  its 
fisheries,  especially  in  winter,  yet  the  Bras  d'Or  is  undeveloped  for  want  of  that 
element  which  seems  to  be  alien  to  the  Colonies,  namely,  enterprise.''^    (Cozzens.) 

The  Bras  d'  Or  to  Halifax. 

When  the  steamer  arrives  at  West  Bay,  a  collection  of  singularly  as- 
sorted vehicles  is  seen  waiting  by  the  wharf,  and  the  passengers  are  con- 
veyed on  this  motley  train  over  13  M.  of  uninteresting  country  to  Port 
Hawkesbury  (see  page  143).  The  morning  mail-stage  may  be  taken  from 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  Antigonish  and  New  Glasgow 
(see  Route  32);  thence  by  railway  to  Halifax.  But  a  pleasanter  route  (in 
calm  weather)  is  to  go  on  board  the  P.  E.  Island  steamboat,  which  arrives 
during  the  evening,  and  pass  to  Plctou,  through  St.  George's  Bay  and  the 
I^orthumberland  Strait.    Pictou  to  Halifax,  see  Route  31. 


ST.  PATRICK'S  CHANNEL.      Jioute  4I.      167 


The  N.  shore 

[)  -  620  ft.  high. 

at  the  head  of 

minutely  out- 

lall  it  profit  tlio 

sles,  or  Caldcr 


we  reached  West 
oduced.    At  first 

then  hundreds, 
)f  sizes  from  that 

a  convention,  a 
ction  as  thiclc  as 
at  length  the  boat 
iter  like  the  leaves 
1  contracting  and 
3  in  all  the  world." 

fied.  Long  rocky 
s  edge ;  in  others, 
low  white  cliffs  of 
lels,  which  branch 
with  innumerable 
at  views  the  most 

cturesque,  and  in 

a  sublime  charac- 

it  verdure  of  broad 

nontories  frowning 

(M'Gregor.) 
as,  that  a  coasting 
ntic.  Besides  the 
re  are  many  noble 
th  beaches  of  glit- 
broods  a  spirit  of 
Arm  is  a  very  use- 
is  by  nature,  land- 
the  Gulf  side,  free 
ly  a  narrow  strip  of 
md  valuable  for  its 
1  for  want  of  that 
:se."    (COZZEMS.) 


of  singularly  as-  I 
sengers  are  con- 
country  to  Port 
ly  be  taken  from 
ad  New  Glasgow 
asanter  route  (in 
at,  which  arrives 
ge's  Bay  and  the 


41.    Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Fort  Hood. —  St  Patrick's 
Channel  and  Whycocomagh. 

This  route  is  traversed  by  the  Royal  mail-stage  on  Monday  and  Wednesday,  leav- 
ing Baddeck  at  noon,  and  reaching  Whycocomagh  after  4  o'clock,  and  Mabou  at  9 
p.  M.  The  distance  is  about  50  M. ;  the  fare  is  $  2.50.  The  Royal  mail-stage  on  this 
route  is  a  one-horse  wagon  with  a  single  seat,  so  that  the  accommodations  for  travel 
are  limited. 

Mr.  Warner  thus  describes  the  road  between  Whycocomagh  and  Baddeck:  "  From 
the  time  we  first  struck  the  Bras  d'Or  for  thirty  miles  we  rode  in  constant  sight  of 
its  magnificent  water.  Now  we  were  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  on  the  hill- 
side skirting  a  point)  or  following  an  indentation  ;  and  now  we  were  diving  into  a 
narrow  valley,  crossing  a  stream,  or  turning  a  sharp  corner,  but  always  with  the 
Bras  d'Or  !in  view,  the  afternoon  sun  shining  on  it,  softening  the  outlines  of  its  em- 
bracing hills,  casting  a  shadow  from  its  wooded  islands.  Sometimes  we  opened  upon 
a  broad  water  plain  bounded  by  the  Watchabaktchkt  liills,  and  again  we  looked  over 
hill  after  hill  receding  into  the  soft  and  hazy  blue  of  the  land  beyond  the  great  mass 
of  the  Bras  d'Or.  The  reader  can  compare  the  view  and  the  ride  to  the  Bay  of 
Naples  and  the  Cornice  Road  ;  we  did  nothing  of  the  sort ;  we  held  on  to  the  seat, 
prayed  that  the  harness  of  the  pony  might  not  break,  and  gave  constant  expression 
to  our  wonder  and  delight." 

St.  Patrick's  Channel  is  20  M.  long  by  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  made 
highly  picturesque  by  its  deep  coves,  wooded  points,  and  lofty  shores.  Its 
general  course  is  followed  by  the  highway,  affording  rich  views  from  some 
of  the  higher  grades.  After  leaving  Baddeck  the  road  strikes  across  the 
country  for  about  5  M.  to  the  Baddeck  River,  in  whose  upper  waters  are 
large  trout.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  swings  around  the  blue  expanse 
of  Indian  Bay,  approaching  a  bold  hill-range  650  ft.  high,  and  crosses  the 
Middle  River,  at  whose  mouth  is  an  Indian  reservation.  Frequent  glimpses 
are  afforded  of  St.  Patrick's  Channel,  well  to  the  1.  across  the  green  mead- 
ows. A  range  of  lofty  heights  now  forces  the  road  nearer  to  the  water, 
and  it  passes  within  2  M.  of  the  remarkable  strait  known  03  the  Little 
Narrmvs,  about  which  there  aie  150  inhabitants. 

A  road  leads  N.  W.  6  M.  into  Ainslie  Glen,  and  to  the  great  Alnslle  liake, 
which  covers  25  square  miles,  and  is  the  source  of  the  Margaree  River.  Its  shores 
are  broken  and  rugged,  and  are  occupied  by  a  hardy  population  of  Highlanders. 
Petroleum  springs  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity  (see  page  ^.69). 

Beyond  the  Little  Narrows  is  a  magnificent  basin,  15  M.  long  and  3-6 
M.  wide,  into  whose  sequestered  and  forest-bound  waters  large  ships  make 
their  way,  and  are  here  laden  with  timber  for  Europe.  On  his  second  trip 
up  this  Basin,  the  Editor  was  startled,  on  rounding  a  promontory,  at  seeing 
a  lar^e  Liverpool  ship  lying  here,  at  anchor,  with  her  yard-arms  almost 
among  the  trees.  The  road  runs  around  the  successive  spurs  of  the  Salt 
Mt.,  a  massive  ridge  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  Basin,  and  many  very  attractive 
views  are  gained  from  its  upper  reaches.  The  water  is  of  a  rich  olue, 
partly  owing  to  its  depth,  which  is  from  3  to  20  fathoms. 

Whycocomagh  (Inverness  House)  is  a  Scottish  Presbyterian  hamlet, 
situated  at  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  Basin,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  Trosach- 
like  scenery.     There  are  about  400  inhabitants  in  this  neighborhood, 


\l 


I 


I        I 


168      Route  42. 


WHYCOCOMAGH. 


whence  small  cargoes  of  p'*ocluce  are  annually  shipped  to  Newfoundland. 
Near  this  point  is  a  marble  cave,  with  several  chambe.-s  6  -  8  ft.  high ;  and 
foxes  are  often  seen  among  the  hills.  It  is  claimed  that  valuable  deposits 
of  magnetic  and  hematitic  iron-ore  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 
Stages  run  30  M.  S.  VV.  from  Whycocomagh  to  Port  Hastings,  on  the  tame 
and  uninteresting  road  known  as  the  Victoria  Line. 

"  "What  we  first  saw  was  an  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  called  by  the  driver  Ilogamah 
Bay.    At  its  entrance  were  long,  wooded  islands,  beyond  which  we  saw  the  backs 

of  graceful  hills,  like  the  capes  of  some  poetic  sea-coast A  peaceful  place,  this 

Whycocomagh.  The  lapsing  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or  made  a  summer  music  all 
along  the  quiet  street ;  the  bay  lay  smiling  with  its  islands  in  front,  and  an  amphi- 
theatre of  hills  rose  beyond."  (Warneji's  Baddeck.) 

On  leaving  Whycocomagh  the  quaint  double  peaks  of  Salt  Mt.  are  seen 
in  retrospective  views,  and  the  road  soon  enters  the  Skye  Glen,  a  long, 
narrow  valley,  which  is  occupied  by  the  Highlanders.  The  wagon  soon 
reaches  the  picturesque  gorge  of  the  Mabou  Valley,  with  the  mountainous 
mass  of  Cape  Mabou  in  front.  The  Mull  River  is  seen  on  the  1.,  glitter- 
ing far  below  in  the  valley,  and  erelong  the  widenings  of  the  sea  are 
reached,  and  the  traveller  arrives  at  the  wretched  inn  of  Mabou.  The 
stage  for  I'ort  Hood  (10  M.  S.)  leaves  about  midnight,  reaching  Port  Has- 
tings at  9  A.  M.  (see  Route  42), 


The  steamer  Neptune  ascends  St.  Patrick's  Channel  to  Whycocomagh 
every  week,  on  its  alternate  trips  passing  around  from  Sydney  to  the 
Channel  by  way  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  (Sydney  to  WHiycocomagh,  $2). 
This  route  is  much  easier  for  the  traveller  than  that  by  the  stage,  and 
reveals  as  much  natural  beauty,  if  made  during  the  hours  of  daylight! 
The  passage  of  the  Little  Narrows  and  the  approach  to  Whycocomagh  are 
its  most  striking  phases. 

^  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.— Port  Hood  and  Mar- 

garee. 

The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Port  Hastings  (Plaster  Cove)  every  morning,  after 
the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  mail.    Fare  to  Port  Hood,  $  3. 

Distances.  —  t  >rt  Hastings  ;  Low  Point,  7  M. ;  Creignish,  9  ;  Long  Point,  14  ; 
Judiquc,  18;  Little  Judique,  24;  Port  Hood,  28;  Mabou,  38;  Broad  Cove  Inter- 
vale, 66 ;  Margaree  Forks,  G8  ;  Margaree,  76 ;  Cheticamp,  88. 

The  first  portion  of  this  route  is  interesting,  as  it  affords  frequent  pleas- 
ant views  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  its  bright  maritime  processions.  The 
trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  from  I'ort  Hastings  to  the  N.  W.,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  small  hamlets  is  seen  along  the  bases  of  the  highlands.  Just 
beyond  Low  Point  is  the  Catholic  village  of  the  same  name,  looking  out 
over  the  sea.  The  I'oad  now  skirts  the  wider  waters  of  St.  George's  Bay, 
over  which  the  dark  Antigonish  Mts.  are  visible.  Bej'ond  the  settlements 
of  Creignish  and  Long  Point  is  the  populous  district  of  Judique,  inhab- 


PORT  HOOD. 


Route  42.      1G9 


wfoundland. 
"t.  high;  and 
iblc  deposits 
lis  vicinity, 
on  the  tame 


iver  Ilogamah 
saw  the  backs 
ful  place,  this 
nier  music  all 
lud  an  aniphi- 

Mt.  are  seen 
jlen,  a  long, 

Avagon  soon 
mountainous 
16  ].,  glitter- 

the  sea  are 
Uabou.  The 
ig  Port  Has- 


'hycocomagh 
'dney  to  tlie 
omagh,  $2). 
le  stage,  and 
>  of  daylight! 
ocomagh  are 


and  Mar- 


norning,  after 

jng  Point,  14 ; 
id  Cove  later- 


tqueut  pleas- 
ssions.  The 
.,  and  a  suc- 
lands.  Just 
,  looking  out 
eorge's  Bay, 
)  settlements 
Uque,  inhab- 


> 


L 


ited  by  Scottish  Catholics,  who  are  devoted  to  the  sea  and  to  agriculture. 
The  Judiquers  are  famous  throughout  the  Province  for  their  great  stature, 
and  are  well  known  to  the  American  fishermen  on  account  of  their  pug- 
nacity. Yankee  crews  landing  on  this  coast  are  frequently  assailed  by 
these  pugilistic  Gaels,  and  the  stalwart  men  of  Judique  usually  come  off 
victorious  in  the  fistic  encounters.  The  district  has  about  2,000  inhab- 
itants. 

Port  Hood  (two  inns)  is  the  capital  of  Inverness  County,  and  is  a  pic- 
turesque little  seaport  of  about  800  inhabitants.  The  American  fishermen 
in  the  Gnlf  frequently  take  shelter  here  during  rough  weather,  and  400 
sail  have  been  seen  in  the  port  at  one  time.  There  are  large  coal-deposits 
in  the  vicinity,  which,  however,  have  not  yet  been  developed  to  any 
extent.  The  town  was  founded  by  Capt.  Smith  and  a  party  of  New- 
Englanders,  in  1790.  '*  This  port  affords  the  only  safe  anchorage  on  the 
W.  coa&»,  of  Cape  Breton  to  the  N.  of  the  Gut  of  Canso,"  and  is  marked 
by  a  red-and-white  light,  near  the  highway,  on  the  S.  Off  shore  is  Smith's 
Isi.  nd,  which  is  2  M.  long  and  210  ft.  high,  beyond  which  are  the  high 
shores  of  Henry  Island.  The  Magdalen-Islands  steamer  touches  at  Port 
Hood  (see  Route  49)  and  a  stage-road  runs  N.  E.  to  Hillsborough,  where 
it  meets  the  road  from  Mabou,  and  thence  passes  E.  to  Whycocomagh  (see 
page  167). 

Mabou  (uncomfortable  inn)  is  10  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Hood,  and  is  reached 
by  a  daily  stage  passing  along  the  shore-road.  It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
broad  estuary  of  the  Mabou  River,  amid  bold  and  attractive  scene-y,  and 
contains  about  800  inhabitants.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  highland  district  of 
Cape  Mabou,  averaging  1,000  fl.  in  height,  and  thickly  Avooded.  The 
Gulf-shore  road  to  Margaree  runs  between  this  range  and  the  sea,  passing 
the  marine  hamlets  of  Cape  Mabou  and  Sight  Point.  There  is  an  inland 
road,  behind  the  hills,  which  is  entered  by  following  the  Whycocomagh 
road  to  the  head  of  the  estuaiy  of  the  Mabou  and  then  diverging  to  the 
N.  E.  This  road  is  traversed  b}-^  a  tri-weekly  stage,  and  leads  up  by  the 
large  farming-settlement  at  Broad  Cove  Intervale,  to  the  W.  shores  of 
Lake  AinsUe  (see  page  167),  which  has  several  small  Scottish  hamlets 
among  the  glens. 

"The  angler  who  has  once  driven  through  Ainslie  Glen  to  the  phores  of  the 
lake,  launched  his  canoe  upon  its  broad  waters,  and  entered  its  swiftly  running 
stream,  will  never  be  content  to  return  until  he  has  fished  its  successive  pools  to  its 
very  mouth." 

A  road  leads  out  from  near  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  village  of 
Broad  Cove  Chapel,  on  the  Gulf  coast,  traversing  a  pass  in  the  highlands. 
The  stage  runs  N.  between  the  hills  and  the  valley  of  the  Margaree  (S.  W. 
Branch),  "one  of  the  most  x'omantic  and  best  stocked  salmon-rivers  in  the 
world."  Beyond  the  settlement  of  Broad  Cove  Marsh,  a  road  runs  out  to 
the  Gulf  abreast  of  Sea -Wolf  Island,  on  whose  cliffs  is  a  fixed  light,  300  ft. 
8 


170      Route  42. 


MARGAllEE. 


high.  Margaree  Forks  is  a  rural  village  at  the  junction  of  the  N.  E.  and 
S.  W.  Branches  of  the  famous  Margaree  Biver,  where  salmon  abound 
from  June  15  until  July  15. 

"  In  Cape  Bretou  the  beautiful  Margaree  is  one  of  the  most  notud  streams  for  sea- 
trout,  and  its  clear  water  and  picturesque  scenery,  winding  through  intervale  mead- 
ows dotted  with  groups  of  witch-elm,  aud  backed  by  wooded  hills  over  a  thousand 
liect  in  height,  entitle  it  to  pre-eminence  amongst  the  rivers  of  the  Gulf." 

There  are  several  small  hamlets  in  this  region,  with  a  total  population 
of  OA  er  4,000.  Margaree  is  on  the  harbor  of  the  same  name,  near  the 
Chimney-Corner  coal-mines,  48  M.  from  Port  Hood,  and  has  a  small  fleet 
of  fishing-vessels.  A  shore-rond  runs  N.  F.  12  M.  to  Cheticamp,  a  district 
containing  about  2,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  the  old  Acadian 
race.  It  is  a  fishing  station  of  Robin  &  Co.,  an  ancient  and  powerful 
commercial  house  on  the  Isle  of  Jersey;  and  was  founded  by  them  in  1784, 
and  settled  by  Acadian  refugees  from  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  h.irbor 
is  suitable  for  small  vessek,  and  is  formed  by  Cheticamp  Island,  sheltering 
the  mouth  of  the  Cheticamp  River.  There  is  a  powerful  revolving  white 
light  on  the  S.  point  of  the  island,  150  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  20  M. 
at  sea. 

N.  E.  and  E.  of  Cheticamp  extends  the  great  highland-wilderness  of 
the  N.  part  of  Cape  Breton  (see  page  163),  an  imexplorcd  and  trackless 
land  of  forests  and  mountains.  There  are  no  roads  above  Cheticamp,  and 
the  most  northerly  point  of  the  Province,  Cape  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
159),  is  30  M.  N.  E.  by  E.  i  E.  from  the  N.  part  of  Cheticr  np  Island. 


The  terrible  storm  which  swept  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  August,  1873,  and 
wrecked  hundreds  of  vessels,  attained  its  greatest  force  around  the  island  of  Cape 
Breton  and  in  the  narrow  seas  to  the  W.,  towards  Prince  Edward's  Island  and  the 
Magdalen  Island.  It  lasted  only  a  few  hours,  but  was  fearfully  destructive  in  its 
effects,  and  strewed  all  these  coasts  with  drowned  mariners  The  following  spirited 
poem  is  inserted  here,  by  the  kind  permission  of  its  author,  Mr.  Edmund  C.  Sted- 
man. 

The  liOrd's-Day  Gale. 


In  Gloucester  port  lie  fishing  craft,— 
More  staunch  and  trim  were  never  seen  : 

They  are  sharp^  before  and  sheer  abaft, 
And  true  their  lines  the  masts  between. 

Alone  the  wharves  of  Gloucester  Town 

Their  fores  are  lifihtly  landed  down. 
And  the  laden  flakes  to  sunward  lean. 

Well  know  the  men  each  crulsing-ground, 
And  where  the  cod  and  mackerelbe  ; 

Old  Eastern  Point  the  schooners  round 
And  leave  Cape  Ann  on  the  larboard  lee  : 

Sound  are  the  planks,  the  hearts  are  bold, 

That  brave  December  s  surfics  cold 
On  George's  shoals  in  thc'outer  sea. 

And  some  must  sail  to  the  banks  far  north 
And  set  their  trawls  for  the  hungry  cod,- 

In  the  ghostly  fog  creep  back  and  forth 
By  shrouUt  J  paths  no  foot  hath  trod  ; 

TT|)on  the  crews  the  ice-winds  blow, 

The  bitter  sleet,  the  frozen  snow,  — 
Thehr  lives  are  in  the  hand  of  God ! 


New  England  !  New  England ! 

Needs  sail  they  must,  so  brave  and  pook', 
Or  June  be  warm  or  Winter  storm. 

Lest  a  wolf  gnaw  through  the  cottage-door  I 
Three  weeks  at  home,  tliree  long  months  gone, 
While  the  patient  good-wives  sleep  alone, 

And  wake  to  hear  tlie  breakers  roar. 

The  Grand  Bank  gathers  in  its  dead,  — 
The  deep  sea-sand  is  their  winding-sheet ; 

Who  does  not  Georges  billows  dread 
That  dash  together  the  drifting  fleet  ? 

Who  does  not  long  to  hear,  in  May, 

The  pleasant  wash  of  Saint  Lawrence  Bay, 
The  fairest  ground  where  fishermen  meet  ? 

There  the  west  wave  holds  the  red  sunlight 
Till  the  bells  at  home  are  rung  for  nine  : 

Short,  short  the  watch,  and  calm  the  night ; 
The  fiery  northern  streamers  shine  ; 

The  eastern  sky  anon  is  gold. 

And  winds  from  piny  forests  old. 
Scatter  the  white  mists  off  the  brine. 


THE  LORD'S-DAY  GALE.        Route  42.      171 


le,  near  the 


The  Province  craft  with  oura  at  morn 
Are  mingled  when  the  vapors  shift ; 

All  day,  by  breeze  and  current  borue, 
Across  the  bay  the  sailors  drift ; 

With  toll  and  seine  its  wealth  the^  win,— 

The  dappled,  silvery  spoil  come  in 
Fast  as  their  handa  can  haul  and  lift. 

New  England !  New  England  I 
Thou  lovcst  well  thine  ocean  main  I 

It  spreadeth  its  locks  among  thy  rocks. 
And  long  against  thy  heart  hath  luia ; 

Thy  ships  upon  its  bosom  ride 

And  feel  the  heaving  of  its  tide  ; 
To  tlicc  its  secret  speech  is  plain. 

Cape  Breton  and  Edward  Isle  between, 
In  strait  and  gulf  the  schooners  lay  j 

The  sea  was  all  iit  peace,  I  ween. 
The  night  before  that  August  day  ; 

Was  never  a  Gloucester  skip|)er  there. 

But  thought  erelong,  witli  a  right  good  fare. 
To  sail  lor  home  from  Saint  Lawrence  Bay. 

New  England  !  New  England ! 

Thy  giant's  love  was  turned  to  hate  J 
The  winds  control  his  flckle  soul. 

And  in  his  wrath  he  hath  no  mate. 
Thy  shores  his  angry  scourges  tear, 
And  for  thy  children  in  his  care 

The  sudden  tempests  lie  in  wait. 

The  East  Wind  gathered  all  unknown,  — 
A  thick  sea-cloud  his  course  before ; 

lie  left  by  night  the  frozen  zone 
And  sniote  the  cliffs  of  liabrador ; 

He  liishcd  the  coasts  on  cither  hand. 

And  betwixt  the  Cape  and  Newfoundland 
Into  the  Bay  his  armies  pour. 

He  caught  our  helpless  cruisers  there 
As  a  gray  wolf  harries  the  huddling  fold ; 

A  sleet  —  a  darkness  —  filled  the  air, 
A  shuddering  wave  before  it  rolled : 

That  Lords-Day  morn  it  was  a  breeze, — 

At  noon,  a  blast  that  shook  the  seas,  — 
At  night  —  a  wind  of  Death  took  hold  I 

It  leaped  across  the  Breton  bar, 
A  death-wind  from  the  stormy  East  I 

It  scarred  the  land,  and  whirled  afar 
The  sheltering  thatch  of  man  and  beast ; 

It  mingled  rick  and  roof  and  tree, 

And  like  a  besom  swept  the  sea. 
And  churned  the  waters  into  yeast 

From  Saint  Paul's  I^ight  to  Edward's  Isle 
A  thousand  croft  it  smote  amain  ; 

And  some  against  it  strove  the  while, 
And  more  to  make  a  port  were  fain : 

The  mackerel-gulls  flew  screaming  past. 

And  the  stick  tiiat  bent  to  the  noonday  blast 
Was  split  by  the  sundown  hurricane. 


Woe,  woe  to  those  whom  the  Islands  pen  I 
In  vain  they  shun  the  double  capes ; 

Cruel  arc  the  reefs  of  Magdalen  ; 
The  Wolf's  white  fang  whot  prey  escapes? 

The  Urin'stone  (;rind8  the  bones  of  some, 

And  Coffin  Isle  is  craped  witli  foam  ;  — 
On  Deadinan's  shore  are  fearful  shapes  I 

O,  what  can  live  on  the  open  sea, 
Or  moored  in  port  the  gale  outride? 

The  very  craft  that  at  anchor  be 
Are  dragged  along  by  the  swollen  tide  I 

The  great  storm-wave  came  rolling  west, 

And  tossed  the  vessels  on  its  crest : 
The  ancient  bounds  its  might  defied  I 

The  ebb  to  check  it  had  no  power ; 

The  surf  ran  up  to  an  untold  height ; 
It  rose,  nor  yielded,  hour  by  hour, 

A  night  and  day,  a  day  and  night ; 
Far  up  the  seething  shores  it  cast 
The  wreck  of  hull  and  spar  and  mast, 

"The  strangled  crews,  —  a  wof  ul  sight  I 

There  were  twenty  and  move  of  Breton  sail 

Fast  anchored  on  one  mooring-ground  j 
Each  lay  v/ithin  his  neighbor  s  hail. 
When  the  thick  of  (he  tempest  closed  them 
round : 
All  sank  at  once  in  the  gaping  sea,  — 
Somewhere  on  the  shoals  their  corses  be, 
Tue  foundered  hulks,  and  the  seamen 
drowned. 

On  reef  and  bar  our  schooners  drove 
Before  the  wind,  before  the  swell ; 

By  the  steep  sand-clift'a  thtir  ribi  were  stove,  — 
Long,  long  their  crews  the  tuie  shall  tell  1 

Of  the  Gloucester  fleet  are  wreck*  threescore: 

Of  the  Province  sail  two  hundred  more 
Were  stranded  in  that  tempest  fell. 

The  bedtime  bells  in  Gloucester  Town 
That  Sabbath  night  rang  soft  and  clear ; 

The  sailors'  childrtn  laid  them  down,— 
Dear  Lord  I  their  sweet  prayers  couldst  thou 
hear  'i 

'T  is  said  that  gently  blew  the  winds  ; 

The  good-wives,  through  the  seaward  blinds, 
Looked  down  the  bay  and  had  no  fear. 

New  England  I  New  England  I 

Thy  ports  their  dauntless  seamen  mourn ; 
The  twin  capes  yearn  for  their  return 

Who  never  shall  be  thither  borne  ; 
Their  orphans  whisper  as  they  caeet ; 
The  homes  arc  dark  in  many  a  street. 

And  women  move  in  weeds  forlorn. 

And  wilt  thou  fail,  and  dost  thou  fear  ? 

Ah,  no !  though  widows'  cheeks  are  pole. 
The  lads  shall  say :  "  Another  year, 

And  we  shall  be  of  age  to  sail !  " 
And  the  mothers'  hearts  shall  fill  with  pri'le. 
Though  tears  drop  fa^tfor  them  who  died 

'When  the  fleet  was  wrecked  in  the  Ltnd's- 
Day  gale. 


PRINCE  EDWAED   ISLAND. 


i  . 


Prince  Edward  Island  is  situated  in  the  southern  portion  of  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Northumberland 
Strait.  It  is  30  M.  from  Cape  Breton  Island,  15  M.  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
9  M.  from  New  Brunswick,  and  is  surrounded  by  deep  and  navigable 
waters.  The  extreme  length  is  130  M. ;  the  extreme  breadth,  34  M. ;  and 
the  area  is  2,133  square  miles.  The  surface  is  low  or  gently  undulating, 
with  small  hills  in  the  central  parts,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  derived  from 
red  sandstorm,  and  is  very  fertile.  The  air  is  balmy  and  bracing,  less 
foggy  than  the  adjacent  shores,  and  milder  than  that  of  New  Brunswick. 
The  most  abundant  trees  are  the  evergreens,  besides  which  the  oak  and 
maple  are  found.  The  shores  are  deeply  indented  by  harbors,  of  which 
those  toward  the  Gulf  are  obstructed  by  sand,  but  those  on  the  S.  are  com- 
modious and  accessible. 

The  island  is  divided  into  3  counties,  including  13  districts,  or  67  town- 
ships and  3  royalties.  It  has  94,021  inhabitants,  of  whom  40,765  are  Cath- 
olics, 29,579  are  Presbyterians,  8,361  Methodists,  and  7,220  Episcopalians. 
The  majority  of  the  people  are  Gaelic,  and  there  are  300-400  Micmac 
Indians.  The  local  government  is  conducted  by  the  Legislative  Council 
(13  members)  and  the  House  of  Assembly  (28  members),  and  the  political 
parties  which  form  about  the  petty  questions  of  the  island  display  a  par- 
tisan acrimony  and  employ  a  caustic  journalism  such  as  are  not  seen  even 
in  the  United  States.  The  Province  is  provided  with  governor  and  cab- 
inet, supreme  and  vice-admiralty  courts,  a  public  debt  and  a  public  do- 
main, on  the  same  plan  as  those  of  the  great  Provinces  of  Quebec  and 
Ontario.  The  land  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  nearly  all  the 
population  is  rural.  Manufactories  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist,  but  the 
fisheries  are  carried  on  to  some  extent,  and  shipbuilding  recei'  es  consid- 
erable attention.  The  roads  are  good  in  dry  weather,  and  lead  through 
quiet  rural  scenery,  broken  every  few  miles  by  the  blue  expanses  of  the 
broad  bays  and  salt-water  lagoons.  The  chief  exports  consist  of  oats, 
wheat,  barley,  hay,  potatoes,  fish,  live-stock,  and  lumber. 

It  has  been  claimed  that  Prince  Edward  Island  was  discovered  by 
Cabot,  in  1497,  but  there  is  no  certainty  on  this  subject.  It  was  visited 
by  Champlain  on  St.  John's  Day,  1608,  and  received  from  him  the  name 
of  V  Isle  St.  Jean.    The  whole  country  was  then  covered  with  stately  for- 


PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 


173 


csts,  abounding  in  game,  and  was  inhabited  by  a  clan  of  tlie  Micmac 
Indians,  who  called  it  Epnyguit  ("Anchored  on  the  Wave").  It  was 
included  in  the  broad  domain  of  Acadia,  over  which  France  and  England 
waged  such  disastrous  wars,  but  was  not  settled  for  over  two  centuries 
after  Cabot's  voyage.  In  1663  this  and  the  7'  igdalen  Islands  were  granted 
to  M.  Doublet,  a  captain  in  the  French  navy,  who  erected  summer  fishing- 
stations  here,  but  abandoned  them  every  autumn.  After  England  had 
wrested  Nova  Scotia  from  France,  a  few  Acadians  crossed  over  to  L'Islo 
St.  Jean  and  became  its  first  settlers.  In  1728  there  were  60  French  fam- 
ilies here;  in  1745  there  were  about  800  inhabitants;  and  during  her  death- 
struggles  with  the  Anglo-American  armies,  the  Province  of  Quebec  drew 
large  supplies  of  grain  and  cattle  from  these  shores.  The  capital  was  at 
Port  la  Joie  (near  Chai*lottetown),  where  there  was  a  battery  and  garrison, 
dependent  on  the  military  commandant  of  Louisbourg.  It  is  claimed  by 
Ilaliburton  that  the  island  was  captured  by  the  New-Englanders  in  1745, 
but  it  is  known  only  that  Gen.  Pepperell  ordered  400  of  his  soldiers  to  sail 
from  Louisbo'^g  and  occupy  L'Islo  St:  Jean.  It  does  not  appear  whether 
or  not  this  was  done.  After  the  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  from  Nova 
Scotia,  many  of  them  fled  to  this  island,  which  contained  4,100  inhab- 
itants in  1758.  In  that  year  Lord  Rollo  took  possession  of  it,  according  to 
tlie  capitulation  of  Louisbourg,  with  a  small  military  foi'ce. 

In  1763  the  island  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Fon- 
tainebleau,  and  became  a  part  of  the  Province  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  was 
surveyed  in  1764  -  6,  and  was  granted  to  about  100  English  and  Scottish 
gentlemen,  who  were  to  pay  quitrents  and  to  settle  their  lands  with  1  per- 
son to  every  200  acres,  within  10  years,  the  colonists  to  be  Protestants 
from  the  continent  of  Europe.  When  the  10  years  had  elapsed,  many  of 
the  estates  were  forfeited  or  sold  to  other  parties,  and  only  19  of  the  67 
townships  had  any  settlers.  In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  separate  Prov- 
ince, and  in  1773  the  first  House  of  Assembly  met.  In  1775  the  Americans 
captured  the  capital,  and  in  1778  four  Canadian  companies  were  stationed 
tliere.  In  1780  the  Province  was  called  New  Ireland,  but  the  King  vetoed 
this  name,  and  in  1800  it  was  entitled  Prince  Edward  Island,  in  honor  of 
His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  Kent,  then  Commander  of  the 
Forces  in  British  North  America  (afterwards  father  of  Queen  Victoria).  In 
1803  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  sent  over  800  Highlanders,  and  other  proprietors  set- 
tled colonies  on  their  domains.  The  complicated  questions  arising  from  tho 
old  pi'oprietary  estates  have  engrossed  most  of  the  legislation  of  the  island 
for  70  years,  and  are  being  slowly  settled  by  the  purchase  of  the  lands  by 
the  government.  Prince  Edward  Island  long  refused  to  enter  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  but  yielded  at  last  on  very  favorable  terms,  one  of  the  condi- 
tions being  that  the  Confederacy  should  build  a  railway  throughout  the 
Province. 


i     i 


174        Route  43.  CAPE  TRAVERSE. 


w 


43.   Shediac  to  Sammerside  and  Charlottetown.  —  The 
Northumberland  Strait. 

St.  John  to  Shediac,  sec  Routes  14  and  16. 

It  is  probable  that  steamers  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company 
■will  leave  Shediac  (Point  dii  Chenc)  every  day  during  the  summer  season, 
on  arrival  of  the  morning  train  from  St.  John.  The  faro  from  Shediac  to 
Summersldo  is  $1.50  ;  and  from  Summersido  to  Charlottetown,  $  1.50. 

The  distance  from  Shediac  to  Summerside  is  35  ^I.  Soon  after  Icavinjr 
the  wharf  at  Point  du  Cheno  the  steamer  passes  out  through  Shediac  Bay, 
and  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait.  The  course  is  a  little  N.  of  E.,  and 
the  first  point  of  the  island  to  come  into  sight  is  Cape  Egmontf  with  its 
lines  of  low  sandstone  cllfls.  The  traveller  now  sees  the  significance 
of  the  ancient  Indian  name  of  this  sea-girt  land,  Epayguit^  signifying 
"Anchored  on  the  Wave." 

After  passing  Cape  Egmont  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  enters  Bcdeque,  or 
Halifax,  Bay,  and  runs  in  toward  the  low  shores  on  thoN.  E.  After  pass- 
ing Indian  Point  and  Island  it  enters  the  harbor  of  Summerside,  with  the 
estuary  of  the  Dunk  River  on  the  r. 

Summerside,  see  page  179. 

Upon  leaving  Summerside  the  steamer  passes  Indian  Point  on  the  1., 
and,  after  running  by  Salutation  Point,  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
The  course  is  nearly  S.  E.  9  M.  from  Salutation  Point  is  Cape  Traverse, 
and  on  the  S.  shore  is  Cape  Tormentine.  At  this,  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  strait,  the  mails  are  carried  acrooa  by  ice-boats  in  winter,  and  passen- 
gers are  transported  by  the  same  perilous  route.  A  submarine  cable  un- 
derlies the  strait  at  this  point.  It  is  20  M.  from  Cape  Traverse  to  St. 
Peter's  Island,  and  along  the  island  shores  are  the  villages  of  Tryon,  Cra- 
paud,  De  Sable,  and  Bonshaw.  On  passing  St.  Peter's  Island,  the  steamer 
enters  Hillsborough  Bay  and  runs  N.,  with  Orwell  and  Pownal  Bays  open- 
ing on  the  E. 

"  Charlottetown  Harbor,  at  its  entrance  between  the  cliffs  of  Blockhouse 
and  Sea-Trout  Point,  is  450  fathoms  wide,  and,  in  sailing  in,  York  River 
running  northward,  the  Hillsborough  River  eastwardly,  and  the  Elliot  to  the 
westward,  surround  the  visitor  with  beautiful  effects,  and  as  he  glides 
smoothly  over  their  confluence,  or  what  is  called  the  Three  Tides,  he  will 
feel,  perhaps,  that  he  has  seen  for  the  first  time,  should  a  setting  sun  gild 
the  horizon,  a  combination  of  color  and  effect  which  no  artist  could  ade- 
quately represent." 

Charlottetown,  see  page  175. 


1 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


Jioute  44.      175 


-The 


Company 
lor  season, 
•liediac  to 
$  1.50. 
er  leavinsr 
Kliuc  Bay, 
of  E.,  and 
with  its 
gnificance 
signifying 

odeque,  or 

Vfterpass- 

with  the 


on  the  1., 
md  Strait. 
Traverse, 
!st  part  of 
ad  passen- 

cable  un- 
erse  to  St. 
ryon,  Cra- 
»e  steamer 
tays  open- 

lockhouse 
ork  River 
Iliot  to  the 
he  glides 
38,  he  will 
;  sun  gild 
ould  ade- 


I 


I 


44.  Fioton  to  Prince  Edward  Island. 

To  Oiarlottetoicn. 

The  steamships  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company  leave  Pictou 
for  Charlottetown  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  (liours  not  yet  regu- 
lated).   Fare,  $  2.    The  distance  is  a  little  over  50  M. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  safe  and  pleasant  harbor  of  Pictou,  the  steamer 
approaches  Pictou  Island,  a  hilly  and  well-wooded  land  4  M.  long,  with  a 
lighthouse  and  some  farms.  On  the  W.  is  Caribou  Island,  consisting  of 
several  islets  united  by  sand-bars,  and  guarded  by  a  lighthouse.  There  are 
l)leasant  views  of  the  receding  highlands  of  Nova  Scotia;  and  the  vossci 
moves  easily  through  the  quiet  waters  of  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
"  Prince  Edward  Island,  as  we  approached  it,  had  a  pleasing  aspect,  and 
none  of  that  remote  friendlessness  which  its  appearance  on  the  map  con- 
veys to  one ;  a  warm  and  sandy  land,  in  a  genial  climate,  without  fogs, 
wo  are  informed." 

After  passing  (on  the  r.)  the  long  low  Point  Prim,  the  steamer  sweeps 
around  to  the  N.  into  Hillsborough  Bay,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Char- 
lottetown. 


Pictou  to  Georgetown. 

The  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company's  steamships  leave  Pictou  for 
Georgetown  every  Tuesday  and  Friday ;  leaving  Georgetown  for  Pictou 
on  the  same  days.  Fare  from  port  to  port,  $  2.  The  distance  is  nearly 
70  M. 

The  chief  incidents  of  this  short  voyage  are  the  views  of  Pictou  Island; 
the  approach  to  Cape  Bear,  the  S.  E.  point  of  P.  E.  Island,  backed  by 
hills  200  ft.'high;  and  the  accent  of  the  noble  sheet  of  Cardigan  Bay,  be- 
tween Boughton  and  Panmure  Islands. 

Georgetown,  see  page  181. 


45.   Charlottetown. 

Arrival.  — The  steamer  passes  between  St.  Peter's  Island  (I.)  and  Governor's 
Island  (r.)  and  ascends  Hillsborough  Bay  for  about  6  M.  It  then  passes  between 
Blockhouse  Point  (on  the  1.,  with  a  lighthouse)  and  Sea-Trout  Point,  and  enters  the 
harbor  of  Charlottetown,  where  there  are  7-10  fathoms  of  water.  Powerful  cur- 
rents are  formed  here  by  the  tides  of  the  Hillsborough,  York,  and  Elliot  Rivers  (or 
Ea8t,NortIi,  and  West  llircrs),  which  empty  into  this  basin. 

Hotels.  —  St.  Lawrence  Hotel,  Water  St.  ;  Revere  House,  noar  the  steamboat 
wharf;  City  Hotel.  The  hotels  of  Charlottetown  are  only  boarding-houses  of  aver- 
age grade,  and  will  hardly  satisfy  American  gentlemen.  Attempts  are  being  made 
to  erect  a  large  summer-hotel  here,  though  there  seems  to  be  but  little  to  warrant 
such  an  enterprise. 

Steamships.  —  The  Alhamhra  and  the  Carroll  leave  Charlottetown  every 
Thursday  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  Halifax,  and  Boston.  Fares  to  Halifax,  saloon 
state-room,  $6;  cabin  state-room,  $5 ;  cabin,  $4 ;  Halifax  to  Boston,  $9,  $7.50, 


17G     Route  4^. 


CIIAIILOTTETOWN. 


1        • 


anil  Sri.50.  Tlio  P.  E.  T.  Steam  Navl^tition  Company  «  voasol!4  St.  Lawrence  ard 
Prinress  of  Wall  '*  nr\  between  (Iharlottetown,  Shuiilae,  and  I'iotoii  (see  llouto.i  4J 
anil  44).  The  Uealhtr  Bellr  j)lies  iiliout  tho  bay  and  up  tlio  Hillsborough  lliver, 
making  also  tripH  to  ('iai)aud  and  Orwell.  Hhe  runs  ui»  the  llill.sborough  Uiver 
to  Mount  Stewart  on  Monday,  Tuesday,  Friday  and  Saturday;  to  Crapaud  on 
SVedncsday  ;  aud  to  Orwell  ou  Wednesday,  Vliursday  and  Friday  (tluio-tablo  of 
1874). 

CiiARLOTTKTOWN,  tlio  capltul  of  Pi'inco  Edwnrcl  Island,  is  situated  on 
gently  rising  ground  on  tlio  N.  sido  of  Iho  Hillsborough  River,  nnd  fronts 
on  a  good  luirbor.  It  has  about  8,000  inhabitants,  with  G  weekly  news- 
papers, 2  banks,  nnd  10  churches.  Tho  plan  of  tho  city  is  very  regular, 
and  consists  of  G  streets,  each  100  ft.  wide,  running  K.  nnd  \V.,  intersect- 
ing 9  streets  rumn'ng  from  N.  to  S.    There  are  four  largo  public  squares. 

The  Colonial  Building  is  tho  only  fino  structure  in  tho  city.  It  stands 
on  Queen's  Square,  at  tho  head  of  Great  George  St.,  and  is  built  of  Nova- 
Scotia  freestone  (at  a  cost  of  $  85,000).  The  halls  of  tho  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  House  of  Assembly  are  on  tho  second  floor,  nnd  are  handsomely 
furnished  and  adorned  with  portraits  of  tho  statesmen  of  Prince  Edward 
Island.  On  tho  same  floor  is  tho  Colonial  Library,  containing  a  good  col- 
lection of  books  relating  to  the  history,  laws,  and  physical  characteristics 
of  Canada  and  tho  British  Empire.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  city  and  the 
rivers  may  be  obtained  from  tho  cupola  of  tho  building.  Tho  Post  Office 
is  also  on  Queen's  Square,  and  is  a  new  and  handsome  stone  building. 
Just  beyond  is  tho  ^Market  House,  a  great  wooden  structure  covered  with 
shingles.  The  principal  shops  of  Charlottetown  are  about  Queen's  Square, 
and  otTer  but  little  to  bo  desired.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Dunstan  is  a  spacious  wooden  ediflce  on  Great  George  St.,  near  the  Square. 

The  extensive  Convent  of  Notre  Dame  is  on  Hillsborough  Square,  and 
occupies  a  modern  brick  building.  The  Prince  of  Wales  College  and  the 
Normal  School  are  on  Weymouth  St.,  in  this  vicinity. 

Tho  old  barracks  and  drill-shed  are  W.  of  Queen's  Square,  between 
Pownal  and  Sydney  Sts.,  and  are  fronted  by  a  parade-ground.  The  Gov- 
c-^nment  House  is  on  a  point  of  land  W.  of  the  city,  and  overlooks  the 
harbor. 

In  1748  tho  government  of  the  island  was  vested  In  civil  nnd  military  officers, 
whose  residence  was  established  at  the  W.  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Port  la  Joie 
(Charlottetown),  where  tliey  hiid  a  battery  and  a  small  garrison.  It  is  said  that  the 
first  French  sailors  who  entered  the  inner  harbor  were  so  pleased  with  its  tranquil 
beauty  that  they  named  it  Port  la  Joie.  There  were  no  houses  on  the  site  of  tho 
city  in  1752.  The  harbor  was  held  by  three  British  frigates  in  1746,  but  was  ravaged 
by  200  Micmacs  under  the  French  Ensign  Montesson.  All  tho  English  found  on  tho 
shore  w«re  captured,  but  the  Indians  refused  to  attack  the  war-vessels. 

In  1768  Morris  and  Deschanips  arrived  here  with  a  small  colony,  and  erected  huts. 
They  laid  out  the  streets  of  Charlottetown,  which  was  .'^oon  established  as  the  capi- 
tal of  the  island.  In  1775  it  was  captured  by  two  American  war-vessels,  which  had 
been  cruising  in  the  Gulf  to  carry  off  the  Quebec  storeships.  The  sailors  plundered 
the  town,  and  led  away  several  local  dignitaries  as  prisoners,  but  Washington  lib- 
erated tho  captives,  and  reprimanded  the  predatory  cruisers. 

Charlottetown  "  has  the  appearance  of  a  place  from  which  something  has  de- 
parted; a  wooden  town,  with  wide  and  vacant  streets,  and  the  air  of  waiting  for 


k 


ENVIRONS  OF  CIIARLOTTETOWN.    lioute  46.      177 


{nu'r^nre  ard 
|''»'  itoutiM  4  > 
V"""«li  Ilivrr 

trapuud  on 
fuiJo-tublo  of 

situated  on 
niul  fronts 
(ckly  news- 
'O'  regular, 
» intcrsect- 
squares. 
Jt  stands 
ilt  of  Nova- 
itive  Couii- 
landsomcly 
co  Edward 
•1  good  col- 
racteristlcs 
ty  and  the 
Post  Ojjice 
0  building. 
Jvercd  with 
n's  Square, 
edralofSt. 
i>G  Square, 
quare,  and 
ge  and  the 

'»  between 

The  Gov- 

"•iooks  the 


^ry  offlcora, 
ort  la  Joie 
111  tliat  the 
ts  tranquil 
site  of  tho 
as  ravaged 
ind  on  the 

«tcd  huts. 
3  the  capi- 
vhich  had 
plundered 
Jgton  lib- 

?  has  ce- 
liting  for 


somcthlnff That  tho  produrtlfo  inland,  with  lt«  »y«t<>m  of  ftro  nchooln,  is  About 

to  (Miter  upon  a  proH|)erouH  career,  and  that  Charlottotown  In  Hoon  to  V)ecomo  a  pioco 
of  great  activity,  no  one  who  convers<e.t  with  tho  natives  can  dnuht,  and  I  think 
tliat  even  now  no  tniv«'ller  will  regret  npending  an  liour  or  two  tliero  ;  but  It  la 
neooHsary  to  nay  that  tlio  rosy  iuduccuieuts  for  touristti  to  spoud  tho  Huuimer  there 
cxidt  ouly  in  tho  guido-booka.'* 

Ennrons  of  Chnrlottttown. 

Tlio  Westeyan  College  is  on  an  cininenco  back  of  tho  city,  and  overlooks 
tho  iiarbor  and  tho  rivers.  It  has  10  instructors  and  about  300  students. 
St.  Dnmtan'a  College  is  a  Catholic  institution,  wliicK  occupies  tho  crest 
of  a  hill  1  M.  from  tho  city,  and  has  4  professors.  There  are  several  pretty 
villas  in  tho  vicinity  of  Charlottetown;  and  tho  roads  are  very  good  during 
dry  weather.  Some  travellers  have  greatly  admired  tho  rural  scenery  of 
these  suburban  roads,  but  others  have  reported  them  as  tame  and  uninter- 
esting. The  same  conflict  of  opinion  exists  with  regard  to  tlie  scenery  of 
the  whole  island. 

Soutfiport  is  a  village  opposite  Charlottetown,  in  a  pretty  situation  on  tho 
S.  shore  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  It  is  reached  by  a  steam  ferry-boat, 
which  crosses  every  hour.  3  M.  from  this  place  is  tho  eminence  called 
Tea  Hill,  Avhence  a  pleasing  view  of  the  parish  and  the  bay  may  be  ob- 
tained. A  few  miles  beyond  is  tho  village  of  Poxonal,  at  tho  head  of 
Pownal  Bay,  and  in  a  region  prolific  in  oats  and  potatoes. 

46.    Charlottetown  to  Summerside  and  Tignish.— The 
Western  Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 

This  region  is  traversed  by  tlio  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway,  a  narrow-gauge 
road  whicii  has  recently  been  built  by  the  Canadian  government.  This  lino  was 
opened  late  in  1874,  and  its  stations  arc  not  yet  fully  established,  many  of  them 
bein£,  merely  platforms,  at  which  the  trains  do  not  stop  unless  there  are  passengers 
to  be  put  down  or  taken  up.  During  the  winter  of  1874  -  5  this  line  ran  three  trains 
a  week,  "  weather  permitting." 

Statlong.  —  Charlottetown;  Royalty  Junction,  6  M. ;  N.  Wiltshire,  17 ;  Hunter 
River,  21;  Kensington,  41;  Summerside,  49 ;  Wellington,  61 ;  Tyne,  or  Port  Hill, 
71 ;  O'Leaiy  Road,  89 ;  Alberton,  104 ;  Tignish,  117. 

After  leaving  the  commodious  station-building,  in  the  E.  part  of  Char- 
lottetown, the  train  sweeps  around  the  city,  turning  to  the  N.  from  the 
bank  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  The  subui-ban  villas  are  soon  passed,  and 
the  line  traverses  a  level  country  to  Royalty  Junction,  where  the  tracks 
to  Souris  and  Georgetown  (see  Route  47)  diverge  to  the  N.  E.  The  train 
now  enters  the  main  line,  and  runs  W.  through  a  fertile  farming  country, 
—  "a  sort  of  Arcadia,  in  which  Shenstone  would  have  delighted."  Tho 
hamlets  are  small  and  the  dwellings  are  very  plain,  but  it  is  expected  that 
the  stations  of  the  new  railway  will  become  the  nuclei  of  future  villages. 
The  train  soon  crosses  the  head-waters  of  the  York  River,  and  reaches  JV. 
Wiltshire,  beyond  which  is  a  line  of  low  hills,  extending  across  the  island. 

;he  station  of  Hunter  River,  whencQ  a  much- 


bey( 


1  point 
8* 


178      Routers. 


BUSTICO. 


■ji 


m  ■': 


travelled  road  leads  to  the  N.  to  New  Glasgow  and  Rustico,  locally  famous 
for  pleasant  marine  scenery. 

Bustioo  is  a  quiet  marine  settleinent,  with  two  churches  and  a  bank, 
and  about  300  inhabitants.  It  is  near  Grand  Kustico  Harbor,  and  is  one 
of  the  chief  fishing  stations  of  the  N.  shore  Tlie  original  settlers  were 
Acadians  (in  the  year  1710),  many  of  whose  descendants  remain  in  the 
township,  and  are  peaceful  and  unprogressive  citizens.  The  Ocean  House 
(40  guests)  is  a  small  summer  hotel  near  tlie  sand-hills  of  the  beach;  and 
ths  facilities  for  boating,  bathing,  fishing,  and  gunning  arc  said  to  be  ex- 
cellent. The  great  fleets  of  the  Gulf  fishermen  are  sometimes  seen  off 
these  shores.  There  is  a  pleasant  drive  up  the  Hunter  River  to  Neio  Glas- 
gow (Rockem's  inn),  which  was  settled  by  men  of  Glasgow,  under  Alex- 
ander Cormack,  the  Newfoundland  explorer,  in  1829.  The  Hunter  River 
affords  good  trouting. 

Grand  Rustico  Harbor  is  rendered  unsafe  by  shifting  bars  of  sand,  and 
it  was  off"  this  port  that  the  Government  steamer  Bose  was  lost.  On  the 
coast  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  hamlets  of  N.  Rustico  and  Cavendish,  the  lat- 
ter of  which  is  a  Presbyterian  farming  settlement  of  200  inhabitants. 

Kensington  station  is  about  41 M.  from  Charlottetown,  and  is  near  the  petty 
hamlet  of  the  same  name.  To  the  N.  E.  is  Grenville  Harbor,  with  the  estu- 
aries of  three  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Stanley.  There  are  several 
maritime  hamlets  on  these  shores,  an  i  on  the  W.  is  New  London,.,  a  neat 
Scottish  settlement  with  two  churches.  A  road  also  leads  N.  W.  from 
Kensington  to  Princetoicn,  a  village  of  400  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
peninsula  between  Richmond  Bay,  ^March  Water,  and  the  Darnlej'  Basin. 
This  town  was  laid  out  (in  1766)  Avith  broad  streets  and  squares,  and  was 
intended  for  the  metropolis  of  the  N.  coast,  but  the  expectations  of  the 
government  Avere  never  realized,  and  "  the  ploughshare  still  turns  up  the 
sod,  where  it  was  intended  the  busj'  thoroughfare  should  be."  Malpeque 
Harbor  is  the  finest  and  safest  on  the  N.  shore  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 
A  few  miles  E.  are  the  lofty  sriudstone  cliffs  of  Cape  Tryon,  near  New  Lon- 
don harbor.  Princetown  fronts  on  Richmond  Bay,  a  capacious  haven 
wiiich  runs  in  to  the  S.  W.  for  10  M.,  and  contains  7  islands.  Travellers 
have  praised  the  beauty  of  the  road  from  Princetown  to  Port  Hill,  which 
aflTords  many  pleasant  views  over  the  bay. 

Beyond  Kensington  the  train  runs  S.  W.  across  the  rural  plains  of  St. 
David's  Parish,  and  passes  out  on  the  isthmus  between  Richmond  Bay  and 
Bedeque  Bay,  where  the  island  is  only  3  -  4  M.  wide.  9  Mr  from  Kensing- 
ton it  reaches  Summerside. 

Summerside  (two  inns)  is  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Dedeque  Ha'-bor,  and 
Is  a  town  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches,  5  schools,  2  weekly 
newspapers,  and  2  banks.  It  is  the  port  whence  most  of  the  products  of 
the  W.  part  of  the  island  are  sent  out,  and  has  grown  rapidly  of  late  years. 
The  chief  exports  in  1870  were  268,000  bushels  of  oats,  37,393  bushels  of 


IM 


I 


*^v* 


fly  famous 

d  a  bank, 
[nd  is  one 
lers  were 
in  in  the 
'an  House 
ach;  and 
to  be  ex- 
seen  off 
'eio  Glas- 
der  Alex- 
iter  Eiver 

sand,  and 
On  the 

,  the  iat- 

nts. 

'  the  petty 

the  estu- 
i*e  several 
■'??,  a  neat 
.W.  from 
ed  on  the 
ey  Basin. 

and  was 
)ns  of  the 
»s  up  the 
Malpeque 
'd  Island. 
'Jew  Lon- 
us  haven 
Vavellers 
11,  which 

:is  of  St. 
Bay  and 
Kensing- 

bor,  and 
weekly 
lucts  of 
e  years, 
shels  of 


SUMMEHSIDE. 


IM 


4' 


i 


noute  4G.      1 79 


potatoes,  10,300  bushels  of  barley,  86,450  dozen  of  cj^gs,  and  4,337  barrels 
of  the  famous  Bedcquo  oysters.  The  wharves  are  long,  in  order  to  reach 
tlie  deep  water  of  the  channel ;  and  the  houses  of  the  town  arc  mostly 
small  wooden  buildings.    Considerable  shipbuilding  is  done  here. 

The  *  Island  Park  Ilottl  is  a  summer  re.«ort  on  an  islet  off  the  harbor, 
and  is  patronized  by  American  tourists.  There  are  accommodations  for 
fislung  and  bathing,  and  a  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  the  island  and 
the  town.  The  hotel  commands  a  pleasant  view  of  the  Bedeque  shores 
and  the  Strait  of  Northumberland. 

"This  little  seaport  is  intended  to  be  attractive,  and  it  would  give  these  travellers 
groat  pleasure  to  describe  it  if  they  could  at  all  remember  how  it  looks.  But  it  is  a 
place  that,  like  some  faces,  makes  no  sort  of  impression  on  the  memory.  We  went 
ashore  tiiere,  and  tried  to  take  an  interest  in  the  shipbuilding,  and  in  the  little 
oysters  which  the  harbor  yields ;  but  whether  we  did  take  an  intt'rcst  or  not  has 
passed  out  of  memory.  A  small,  unpicturcsque,  wooden  town,  in  the  languor  of  a 
provincial  summer;  why  should  we  pretend  an  interest  in  it  which  we  did  not  feel? 
It  did  not  disturb  our  reposeful  frame  of  mind,  uor  much  interfere  with  our  eiyoy- 
nient  of  the  day."    (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

On  leaving  Summerside,  the  train  runs  out  to  the  W.,  over  a  level  region. 
To  the  N.  is  the  hamlet  of  St.  Eleanors  (Ellison's  Hotel),  a  place  of  400  in- 
habitants, situated  in  a  rich  farming  country.  It  enjoys  the  honor  of  being 
the  shire-town  of  Prince  County,  and  is  about  2|  jM.  from  Summerside. 
3  M.  from  St.  Eleanors  is  the  rural  village  of  Miscouche,  inhabited  by 
French  Acadians.  Wellington  (Western  Hotel)  is  a  small  hamlet  and 
station  12  M.  beyond  Summerside,  near  the  head  of  the  Grand  River,  which 
flows  into  Richmond  Bay.  The  Acadian  settlements  about  Cape  Egmont 
are  a  few  miles  to  the  S.  W. 

The  line  passes  on  to  Port  Ilill,  a  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  on 
Richmond  Bay.  Near  this  place  is  Lennox  Island,  which  is  reserved  for 
the  Micmac  Indians,  and  is  inhabited  by  about  150  persons  of  that  tribe. 
Between  the  bay  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  George  Island,  which  is 
composed  of  trap-rock  and  amygdaloid,  and  is  regarded  as  a  curious  geo- 
logical intrusion  in  the  red  sandstone  formations  of  the  Prince-Edward 
shoi'cs.  The  train  runs  N.  W.  over  the  isthmus  between  the  Cavendish 
Inlet  and  the  Percival  and  Enmore  Rivers,  and  soon  enters  the  North 
Parish.  This  region  is  thinly  inhabited  by  French  and  British  settlers, 
and  is  one  of  the  least  prosperous  portions  of  the  island.  The  line  passes 
near  Brae,  a  settlement  of  300  Scotch  farmers,  near  the  trout-abounding 
streams  of  the  Parish  of  Halifax.  To  the  S.  W.  is  the  sequestered  marine 
hamlet  of  West  Point,  where  a  town  has  been  laid  out  and  preparations 
made  for  a  commerce  which  does  not  come.  The  coast  trends  N.  by  E. 
6  M.  from  West  Point  to  Cape  Wolfe,  whence  it  runs  N.  E.  by  E.  27  M.  to 
North  Point,  in  a  long  unbroken  strand  of  red  clay  and  sandstone  cliffs. 

Alberton  (two  inns)  is  one  of  the  northern  termini  of  the  railway,  and 
is  a  prosperous  village  of  700  inhabitants,  with  two  churches  and  an 


t 

1  I: 


) 


in 


ii 


SI 


t\\ 


I" 


180      Route  47. 


TIGNISH. 


American  consular  agency.  It  is  situated  on  Cascumpec  ^  harbor,  and  h 
engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries.  The  American  fishing-schooners 
often  take  refuge  in  tliis  harbor.  Tlie  neighboring  rural  districts  are  fer- 
tile and  thickly  populated,  and  produce  large  quantities  of  oats  and  pota- 
toes. This  town  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Gordons,  the  heroic  mission- 
aries at  Eromanga,  one  of  whom  was  mai'tyred  in  1861,  the  other  in 
1872.  S.  of  Alberton  is  Holland  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  him- 
self by  Major  Holland,  the  English  surveyor  of  the  island ;  and  6-8  M.  N. 
is  Cape  Kildare. 

Tignish  {Ryan's  Hotel)  is  the  extreme  northern  point  reached  by  the 
railway,  and  is  117  M.  from  Charlottetown.  It  has  about  200  inhabitants, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  fishing-stations  on  the  island.  The  in- 
habitants are  mostly  Fi'ench  and  Scotch,  and  support  a  Catholic  church 
and  convent.  There  are  several  other  French  villages  in  this  vicinity, 
concerning  which  the  historian  of  the  island  says:  "They  are  all  old  set- 
tlements. The  nationality  of  the  people  has  kept  them  together,  until 
tlieir  farms  are  subdivided  into  small  portions,  and  their  dwellings  are 
numerous  and  close  together.  Few  are  skilful  farmers.  Many  prefer  to 
obtain  a  living  by  fishing  rather  than  farming.  They  are  simple  and  in- 
offensive in  their  manners ;  quiet  and  uncomplaining,  and  easily  satisfied. 
The  peculiarities  of  their  race  are  not  yet  extinct;  and  under  generous 
treatment  and  superior  training,  the  national  enterprise  and  energy,  polite- 
ness and  refinement,  would  gradually  be  restored." 

North  Point  is  about  8  M.  N.  of  Tignish,  and  is  reached  by  a  sea-view- 
ing road  among  the  sand-dunes.  It  has  a  lighthouse,  which  sustains  a 
powerful  light,  and  is  an  important  point  in  the  navigation  of  the  Gulf. 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown. 


By  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway. 
Stations.  —  Charlottetown ;  Royalty  Junction,  5  M. 
digan,  40 ;  Georgetown,  46. 


Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Car- 


Beyond  Royalty  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  follows  tho 
course  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  though  generally  at  some  distance  from 
the  shore.  Tlie  banks  of  this  stream  are  the  most  favored  part  of  that 
prosperous  land  of  which  Dr.  Cuyler  says:  "It  is  one  rich,  rolling,  arable 
farm,  from  Cape  East  clear  up  to  Cape  North."  As  early  as  1758  there  were 
2,000  French  colonists  about  this  river.  The  Hillsborough  is  30  M.  long, 
and  the  tide  ascends  for  20  M.  Much  produce  is  shipped  from  these  shores 
during  the  autumnal  months.  About  8  M.  beyond  the  Junction  the  line 
crosses  French  Fort  Creek,  on  whose  banks  the  French  troops  erected  a 
fortification  to  protect  the  short  portage  (IJ  M.)  across  the  island,  from 
the  river  to  Tracadie  Harbor.    Here  the  military  domination  was  surren- 

1  Cascumpec,  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "  Flowing  through  Sand." 


^* 


K-~.a 


-^ 


k  and  13 
Ichooners 

are  fer- 
|nd  pota- 
]  mission- 
I  other  in 

of  him- 
•8M.  K 

by  the 
[abitants, 

The  in- 
3  church 
vicinity, 
I  old  set- 
ler,  until 
lings  are 
prefer  to 

and  in- 
satisfied, 
generous 
y,  polite- 

sea-view- 
Listains  a 
Gulf. 


,22;  Car- 

Hows  the 
ice  from 
;  of  that 
J,  arable 
ere  were 
M.  long, 
e  shores 
the  line 
•ected  a 
id,  from 
surren- 


1^4 


H'.a 


^ 


GEORGETOWN. 


Route  47.      181 


dered  to  the  British  expeditionary  forces.  To  the  N.  \V.  are  the  Gaelic 
villages  of  Covehead  and  Tracadie,  now  over  a  century  old ;  .near  which 
is  the  sandy  lagoon  of  Tracadie  Harbor.  At  the  place  called  Scotch  Fort 
the  French  built  the  first  church  on  the  island,  and  in  this  vicinity  the 
earliest  British  settlers  located.  From  the  French  Catholic  church  on  the 
lo*'ty  hill  at  St.  Andrews,  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  E.,  a  beautiful  view  is 
obtained  over  a  rich  rural  country. 

Mount  Stewart  (two  inns)  is  a  prosperous  little  shipbuilding  village, 
whence  the  steamer  Heather  Belle  runs  to  Charlottetown.  The  train 
crosses  the  river  at  this  point,  and  at  Mount  Stewart  Junction  it  turns 
to  the  S.  E.,  while  the  Souris  Railway  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  The  country 
which  is  now  traversed  is  thinly  settled,  and  lies  about  the  head-waters  of 
the  MoiTcU  and  Pisquid  Rivers.  There  are  several  small  lakes  in  this 
region,  and  forests  are  seen  on  either  hand.  At  Cai'digan  {small  inn)  the 
line  reaches  the  head-waters  of  the  eastern  rivers.  A  road  leads  hence  to 
the  populous  settlements  on  the  Vernon  River  and  Pownal  Bay. 

Georgetown  {Commercial  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  King's  County,  and 
has  about  800  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  long  peninsula  between 
the  Cardigan  and  Brudenelle  Rivers,  and  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on 
the  island,  being  deep  and  secure,  and  the  last  to  be  closed  by  ice.  The 
county  buildings,  academy,  and  Episcopal  church  are  on  Kent  Square. 
The  chief  business  of  the  town  is  in  the  exportation  of  produce,  and  ship- 
building is  carried  on  to  some  extent.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  but  its 
growth  has  been  very  slow.  Steamers  ply  between  this  port,  Pictou,  and 
the  Magdalen  Islands  (see  Routes  44  and  49).  The  harbor  is  reached  by 
ascending  Cardigan  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouses  on  Panmure  Head 
and  St.  Andrew's  Point. 

Montaf/ue  Bridge  (Montague  House)  is  reached  from  Georgetown  by  a 
ferry  of  6  M.  and  11  M.  of  staging.  It  has  350  inhabitants  and  several 
mills.  To  the  S.  E.  is  St.  Mary's  Bay.  About  20  M.  S.  of  Georgetown  is 
Murray  Harbor,  on  v.hlch  there  arc  several  Scottish  villages.  From  Capo 
Bear  the  coast  trends  W.  for  27  M.  to  Point  Prim. 


"  No  laud  can  boast  more  rich  supply, 
1  liat  e'er  was  found  beneath  the  sky  ; 
No  purer  streams  have  ever  flowed, 
Since  Heaven  that  bounteous  gift  bestowed. 


And  herring,  like  a  mighty  host, 

And  cod  and  mackerel,  crowd  the  coast." 


"  In  this  fine  island,  long  neglected, 
Much,  it  is  thought,  might  be  effected 
By  industry  and  application,  — 
Sources  of  wealth  with  every  nation." 


182      Routers. 


ST.  PETER'S. 


f 


\ 


■ 


.1 


48.  Charlottetown  to  Souris. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway. 

Stations.  — Charlottetown;  Royalty  Junction,  5  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Mor- 
rell,  30 ;  St.  Peter's,  38^ ;  Harmony,  55 ;  feouris,  60^. 

Charlottetown  to  Mount  Stewart,  see  page  181. 

At  Mount  Stewart  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  soon 
reaches  Morrell,  a  fishing-station  on  the  Morrell  Kiver,  near  St.  Peter's 
Bay. 

St.  Peter's  {Pmirie  TIctel)  was  from  the  first  the  most  important  port 
on  the  N.  shore  of  the  island,  on  account  of  its  rich  salmon-fisheries. 
About  the  year  1750  the  French  government  endeavored  to  restrict  the 
fishing  of  tlie  island,  and  to  stimulate  its  agriculture,  by  closing  all  the 
ports  except  St.  Peter's  and  Tracadie.  The  village  is  now  quite  small, 
though  the  salmon-fisheiy  is  valuable.  St.  Peter's  Bay  runs  7  M.  into 
the  land,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  since  there  is  only  6  ft.  of  water  on  its 
sandy  bar.  From  this  inlet  to  East  Point  the  shore  is  unbroken,  and  is 
formed  of  a  line  of  red  sandstone  cliffs,  33  M.  long. 

"  The  sea-trout  fishing,  in  the  bays  and  harbors  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  espe- 
cially in  Juno,  when  the  fish  first  rush  in  from  the  gulf,  is  really  magnificent.  They 
average  from  3  to  5  pounds  each.  1  found  the  best  fishing  at  tet.  Peter's  Bay,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  island,  about  28  M.  from  Charlottetown.  I  there  killed  in  one 
morning  16  trout,  which  weighed  80  pounds.  In  the  bays  and  along  the  coasts  of 
the  island  they  are  taken  with  the  scarlet  fly,  from  a  boat  under  easy  sail,  with  a 
'  mackerel  breeze,'  and  sometimes  a  heavy  '  ground  swell.'  The  fly  skips  from  wave 
to  wave  at  the  end  of  30  yards  of  line,  and  there  should  be  at  least  70  yards  more  on 
the  reel.  It  Is  splendid  sport,  as  a  strong  fish  will  make  sometimes  a  long  run,  and 
give  a  good  chase  down  the  wind."   (Pbrley.) 

Ilarviony  station  is  near  Rollo  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord 
Rollo,  who  occupied  the  island  with  British  troops  in  1758.  There  is  a 
small  hamlet  on  this  bay;  and  to  the  S.  W.  are  the  Gaelic  settlements  of 
Dundas,  Bridgetown,  and  Annandale,  situated  on  the  Grand  River. 

Souris  (three  inns)  is  a  village  of  Catholic  Highlanders,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Colville  Bay,  und  divided  into  two  portions  by 
the  Souris  River.  The  harbor  is  shallow,  but  is  being  improved  by  a  break- 
water. The  shore-fishing  is  pursued  in  fleets  of  dories,  and  most  of  the 
produce  of  the  adjacent  country  is  shipped  from  Souris  to  the  French  Isle 
of  St.  Pierre  (see  page  185).  There  is  a  long  sandy  beach  on  the  W.  of  the 
village,  and  on  the  S.  and  E.  is  a  bold  headland.  Souris  was  settled  by 
the  Acadians  in  1748;  and  now  contains  about  500  inhabitants. 

The  East  Parish  tends  for  several  leagues  E.  of  Souris,  and  includes 
the  sea-shore  hamlets  of  Red  Point,  Bothwell,  East  Point,  North  Lake,  and 
Fairfield.  The  East  and  North  Lakes  are  long  and  shallow  lagoons  on  the 
coast.  East  Point  is  provided  with  a  first-class  fixed  light,  which  is  130 
ft.  above  the  sea  and  is  visible  for  18  M. 


OB 


^ 


MAGDALEN  ISLANDS. 


Route  49.      183 


122 ;  Mor- 


|ind  soon 
Peter's 

ant  port 

islieries. 

•let  the 
ig  all  the 
te  small, 

M.  into 
er  on  its 
n,  and  is 

land,  espe- 
ent.  They 
's  Bay,  on 
led  in  one 
5  coasts  of 
?ail,  with  a 
from  wave 
Is  more  on 
g  run,  and 

r  of  Lord 
here  is  a 
ments  of 
sr. 

leasantly 
rtions  by 
a  break- 
•st  of  the 
ench  Me 
W. of  the 
ittled  by 

includes 
ake,  and 
IS  on  the 
;h  is  130 


*am 


49.   The  Magdalen  Islands. 

These  remote  islands  are  sometimes  visited,  during  the  summer,  by  fishing-par* 
tics,  who  find  rare  sport  in  catching  the  white  sea-trout  that  abound  in  the  vicinity. 
The  accommodations  for  visitors  arc  of  the  most  primitive  kind,  but  many  defects 
arc  atoned  for  by  the  liospitality  of  the  people. 

The  mail-steamer  Albert  leaves  Pictou  for  Georgetown  (P.  E.  I.)  and  the  Magdalen 
Islands  every  alterniite  Wednesday.  She  also  leaves  Pictou  for  Port  Hood  (Cape 
Breton)  every  Monday  evening,  returning  on  the  following  morning.  (Time-table 
^_  of  1874  ) 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Port  Hood,  .$  4.60 ;  to  Georgetown,  $  4.10  ;  to  the  Magdalen 
Islands,  $  8.  Further  particulars  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  James  King,  mail- 
contractor,  Halifax. 

The  Magdalen  Islands  are  thirteen  in  number,  and  are  situated  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  50  M.  from  East  Point  (P.  E.  L), 
CO  M.  from  C'^pe  North  (C.  B.),  120  M.  from  Cape  Ray  (N.  F.),  and  150  M. 
from  Gaspd.  When  they  are  first  seen  from  the  sea,  they  present  the  ap- 
pearance of  well-detached  islets,  but  on  a  nearer  approach  several  of  them 
are  seen  to  be  connected  with  each  other  by  double  lines  of  sandy  beaches, 
forming  broad  and  quiet  salt-water  lagoons.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Acadian  fishermen  (speaking  French  only),  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  the 
immense  schools  of  cod  and  mackerel  that  visit  the  neighboring  waters. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  harbors  and  lagoons  are  filled  with 
hundreds  of  sail  of  fishing-vessels,  most  of  which  are  American  and  Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting  is  carried  on  here  with  much  success,  as  extensive 
fields  of  ice  drift  down  against  the  shores,  bearing  myriads  of  seals.  On 
one  occasion  over  6,000  seals  were  killed  here  in  less  than  a  fortnight  by 
parties  going  out  over  the  ice  from  the  shore.  This  is  also  said  to  be  the 
best  place  in  America  for  the  lobster  fishery,  and  a  Portland  company  has 
recently  founded  a  canning  establishment  here.  On  account  of  their 
abundant  returns  in  these  regards  the  Magdalen  Islands  have  received  the 
fitting  title  of  "  The  Kingdom  of  Fish."  In  order  to  protect  these  interests 
the  Dominion  armed  cutter  La  Canadienne  usually  spends  the  summer  in 
these  waters,  to  prevent  encroachments  by  Americans  and  Frenchmen. 

Amherst  Island  is  the  chief  of  the  group,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  principal 
village,  the  custom-house,  and  the  public  buildings.  On  its  S.  point  is  a 
*red-and- white  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  20  M. ;  and  the  hills  in  the 
^1^  interior,  550  ft.  high,  are  seen  from  a  great  distance  by  day.    The  village  has 

3  churches  and  the  court-house,  and  is  situated  on  a  small  harbor  which 
opens  on  the  S.  of  Pleasant  Bay,  a  broad  and  secure  roadstead  where  hun- 
dreds of  vessels  sometimes  weather  heavy  storms  in  safety.  1  M.  N.  W. 
of  the  village  is  the  singular  conical  hill  called  the  Demoiselle  (280  ft.  high), 
whence  the  bay  and  a  great  part  of  the  islands  may  be  seen. 

Grindstone  Island  is  5  -  6  M.  N.  of  Amherst,  and  is  connected  with  it 
by  a  double  line  of  sand-beaches,  wliich  enclose  the  wide  lagoon  called 
Basque  Harbor.  It  is  5  M.  long,  and  has  a  central  hill  650  ft.  high,  while 
on  the  W.  shore  is  the  lofty  conical  promontory  of  sandstone  which  the 


it 

if 

5 


|i|  I 


•'l 


i      ■  i 


I 

% 


I 


184      Route  49.         MAGDALEN  ISLANDS. 

Acadians  call  Cap  de  Meule.  On  the  same  side  is  the  thriving  hamlet  of 
V^tang  du  Nord.  On  the  E.,  and  containing  7  square  miles,  is  Alright 
Island,  terminated  by  the  grayish-white  cliffs  of  Cape  Alright,  over  400 
ft.  high.  A  sand-beach  runs  N.  E.  10  M.  from  Grindstone  to  Wolf  Island, 
a  sandstone  rock  |  M.  long;  and  another  beach  runs  thence  9  M.  farther 
to  the  N.  E.  to  Grosse  Island,  on  the  Grand  Lagoon.  This  island  has  another 
line  of  lofty  cliffs  of  sandstone.  To  the  E.  is  Cojffin  Island,  and  4  M.  N.  is 
Bryon  Island,  beyond  which  are  the  Bird  Isles. 

Entry  Island  lies  to  the  E.  of  Amherst  Island,  off  the  entrance  to 
Pleasant  Bay,  and  is  the  most  picturesque  of  the  group.  Near  the  centre 
is  a  hill  580  ft.  high,  visible  for  25  M.,  and  from  whose  summit  the 
whole  Magdalen  group  can  be  overlooked.  The  wonderful  cliffs  of  red 
sandstone  which  line  the  shores  of  this  island  are  very  picturesque  in  their 
effect,  and  reach  a  height  of  400  ft. 

Deadman's  Isle  is  a  rugged  rock  8  M.  W.  of  Amherst,  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  its  contour  to  that  of  a  corpse  laid 
out  for  burial.  While  passing  this  rock,  in  1804,  Tom  Moore  wrote  the 
poem  which  closes : 


"  There  lieth  a  wreck  on  the  dismal  shore 
Of  cold  and  pitiless  L.nbrador, 
Where,  under  the  moon,  upon  mounts  of 

frost, 
Full  many  a  mariner's  bones  arc  tossed. 

"Yon  shadowy  bark  hath  been  to  that  wreck, 
And  the  dim  blue  fire  that  lights  her  deck 


Doth  play  on  as  nale  and  livid  a  crew 
As  ever  yet  dranic  the  churchyard  dew. 

"  To  Deadman's  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  blast, 
To  Dcndmnn's  Isle  she  spc^^ds  her  fast ; 
By  skeleton  shapes  her  sails  are  furled. 
And  tl'ri  hand  that  steers  is  not  of  this 
world." 


The  Bird  Isles  are  two  bare  rocks  of  red  sandstone,  |  M.  apart,  the  chief 
of  which  is  known  as  Gannet  Rock,  and  is  1,300  ft.  long  and  100-140  ft. 
high,  lined  with  vertical  cliffs.  These  isles  are  haunted  by  immense  num- 
bers of  sea-birds,  gannets,  guillemot'',  puffins,  kittiwakes,  and  razor-billed 
auks.  "No  other  breeding-place  oti  our  shore  is  so  remarkable  at  once 
for  the  number  and  variety  of  the  species  occupying  it."  Immense  quan- 
tities of  eggs  are  carried  thence  by  the  islanders,  but  to  a  less  extent  than 
formerly. 

This  great  natural  curiosity  was  visited  in  1632  by  the  Jesuits  (who  called  the  rocks 
Les  Colombiers),  by  Ileriot  in  1807,  by  Audubon,  and  in  1800  by  Dr.  Bryan.  The 
Dominion  has  recently  erected  a  lighthouFc  here  at  great  expense, and  to  the  imminent 
peril  of  those  engaged  iu  the  work,  since  there  is  no  landing-place,  and  in  breezy 
weather  the  surf  dashes  violently  against  the  cliffs  all  around.  The  tower  bears  a 
fixed  white  light  of  the  first  class,  which  is  visible  for  21  M. 

Charlevoix  visited  these  islands  in  1720,  and  wondered  how, "  in  such  a  Multitude 
of  Nests,  every  Bird  immediately  finds  her  own.  We  fired  a  Gun,  which  gave  the 
Alarm  thro'  all  this  flying  Commonwealth,  and  there  was  formed  above  the  two 
Islands,  a  thick  Cloud  of  these  Birds,  which  was  at  least  two  or  three  Leagues 
around." 

^  The  Magdalen  Islands  were  visited  by  Cartier  in  1534,  but  the  first  permanent  sta- 
tion was  founded  hero  in  1GC3  by  a  company  of  llontleur  mariners,  to  whom  the 
islands  were  conceded  by  the  Company  of  New  Trance  In  1720  the  Duchess  of 
Orleans  granted  them  to  the  Count  de  St.  Pierre.  In  17C3  they  were  inhabited  by 
10  Acadiau  families,  and  in  1"G7  a  Bostoniau  named  Gridley  founded  on  Amherst 


^ 


^ 


^ 


1 

JL 


'*^ 


imlet  of 
lAlright 

lover  400 
If  Island, 
.  farther 
another 
M.  N.  13 

trance  to 
le  centre 
imit  the 
of  red 
e  in  then- 

erives  its 
orpse  laid 
wrote  the 


a  crew 
iird  dew. 

•f  the  blast, 
her  fast ; 
s  furled, 
not  of  this 


the  chief 
0-140  ft. 
Jnse  num- 
zor-billed 
le  at  on  CO 
nse  quan- 
tent  than 


i  the  rocks 
yan.  The 
!  imniiueut 
in  breezy 
er  bears  a 

Multitude 
I  gave  the 
e  the  two 
e  Leagues 


anent  sta- 
tvhom  the 
uchcss  of 
abited  by 
Amherst 


t 


ST.  PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON.    Route  60.      185 

Island  an  establishment  for  trading  and  for  the  seal  and  walrus  fisheries.  During 
the  Revolution  American  privateers  visited  the  islands,  and  destroyed  everything 
accessible.  Gridley  returned  after  the  war,  but  the  walrus  soon  became  extinct, 
and  the  islanders  turned  their  attention  to  the  cod  and  herring  fisheries.  Whin 
Admiral  Coffin  received  his  grant  there  were  100  families  here ;  in  1831  there  were 
1,000  inhabitants;  and  the  present  population  is  about  3,500.  In  the  mean  time 
three  colonics  have  been  founded  and  populated  from  these  islands,  on  Labrador  and 
the  N.  shore.  The  Lord's-Day  Gale  (see  page  170)  wrought  sad  havoc  among  the 
fleets  in  these  waters. 

Tradition  tells  that  when  Capt.  Coffin  was  conveying  Governor-General  Lord  Dor- 
chester to  Canada  in  his  frigate,  a  furious  storm  arose  in  the  Gulf,  and  the  skilful 
mariner  saved  his  vessel  by  gaining  shelter  under  the  lee  of  these  i.^lands.  Dorches- 
ter, grateful  for  his  preservation,  secured  for  the  captain  the  grant  of  the  islands 
"in  free  and  common  soccage,"  with  the  rights  of  building  roads  and  fortifications 
reserved  to  the  Crown.  The  grantee  wa.s  a  native  of  Boston  and  a  benefactor  of 
Nantucket,  and  subsequently  became  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coffin.  The  grant  now 
belongs  to  his  nephew,  Admiral  Coffin,  of  Bath,  and  is  an  entailed  estate  of  the 
family.  In  1873,  75  years  after  the  grant,  the  legislature  of  Quebec  (in  whose  juris- 
diction the  islands  lie)  made  extensive  investigations  with  a  view  to  buy  out  the  pro- 
prietor's claim,  since  many  of  the  islanders  had  emigrated  to  Labrador  and  the 
Mingan  Isles,  dissatisfied  with  their  uncertain  tenure  of  the  land. 

50.   St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon. 

The  Anglo-French  Steamship  Company  dispatches  the  steamer  George  Shattuck 
from  Halifax  to  Sydney  and  St.  Pierre  every  alternate  Saturday  during  the  season 
of  navigation.  She  leaves  St.  Pierre  every  alternate  Friday.  The  voyage  to  Sydney 
has  recently  been  made  by  way  of  St.  Peter's  Canal  and  tlie  Bras  d'Or,  but  it  is  not 
Ukely  that  that  route  will  be  adopted  in  preference  to  the  outside  course. 

Fares  from  Halifax  to  Sydney,  cabin,  $  10,  steerage,  S6  ;  to  St.  Pierre,  cabin, 
$15,  steerage,  $8;  Sydney  to  St.  Pierre,  cabin,  $9,  steerage,  $6.  The  price  of 
meals  is  included  in  the  cabin-fares.  Further  information  may  be  obtained  by  ad- 
dressing Joseph  S.  Belcher,  Boak's  Wharf,  Halifax. 

St.  Pierre  may  also  be  visited  by  the  Western  Coastal  steamer  from  St.  John's, 
N.  F.  (see  Route  60). 

There  are  several  French  cafis  and  pensions  in  the  village  of  St.  Pierre,  at  which 
the  traveller  can  find  indifferent  accommodations.  The  best  of  these  is  that  at  which 
the  telegraph-operators  stop. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  St.  Pierre,  the  steamer  passes  Gcdantry  Wi?ac7,  on  which 
is  a  red-and-white  flash-light  which  is  visible  for  20  M.,  and  also  two  fog-guns. 
Within  the  harbor  are  two  fixed  lights,  one  white  and  one  red,  which  are  visible  for 
6  M.  ;  and  the  Isle  aux  Cliiens  contains  a  scattered  fishing-village. 

The  island  of  St.  Pierre  is  about  12  M.  from  Point  May,  on  the  New- 
foundland coast,  and  is  12  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  mostly  composed  of 
rugged  porjDhyritic  ridges,  utterly  arid  and  barren,  and  the  scenery  is  of 
a  striking  and  singular  character.  Back  of  the  village  is  the  hill  of  Cal- 
mire,  sui-mounted  by  a  tall  cross;  and  to  the  S.  W.,  beyond  Ravenel  Bay, 
is  the  lakelet  called  DEtang  du  Savoyard.  The  town  is  compactly  built  on 
the  harbor  at  the  E.  of  the  island,  and  most  of  its  houses  are  of  stone.  It 
is  guarded  by  abotit  50  French  soldiers,  whose  presence  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  multitudes  of  fearless  and  pugnacious  sailors  from  incessant  riot- 
ing. There  is  a  large  force  of  telegraph-operators  here,  in  charge  of  the 
two  cables  from  America  to  Great  Britain  by  way  of  Newfoundland,  and 
of  the  Franco-American  cable,  which  runs  E.  to  Brest  and  S.  W.  to  Dux- 
bury,  in  Massachusetts. 

The  only  good  house  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Governor;  and  the.Cath- 


186      Route  50.    ST.  PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON. 


M 


t  i 


>j 


ii 


^i 


olic  church  nnd  convent  rise  prominently  over  the  low  honses  of  the  fisher- 
men. Near  the  sea  is  a  battery  of  ancient  guns,  winch  are  used  only  for 
warning  in  season  of  fogs.  The  buildings  are  nearly  all  of  wood,  and  in- 
clude many  shops,  where  every  variety  of  goods  may  be  obtained.  The 
merchants  are  connected  with  French  and  American  firms.  There  are 
numerous  cabarets,  or  drinking-saloons ;  and  the  auberges,  or  small  taverns, 
are  thoroughly  French.  The  citizens  are  famed  for  their  hospitality  to 
properly  accredited  strangers;  and  the  literary  culture  of  the  community 
is  served  by  a  diminutive  weekly  paper  called  La  Feville  OJicielle,  printed 
on  a  sheet  of  foolscap,  and  containing  its  serial  Parisian  feuilleton. 

The  street  of  St.  Pierre  presents  a  very  interesting  sight  during  the 
spring  and  fall.  It  is  crowded  with  many  thousands  of  hardy  fishermen, 
arrayed  in  the  quaint  costumes  of  their  native  shores,  —  Normans,  Bretons, 
Basques,  Provincials,  and  New-Englanders,  —  all  active  and  alert;  while 
the  implements  of  the  fisheries  are  seen  on  every  side.  The  environs  of 
the  town  are  rocky  and  utterly  unproductive,  so  that  the  provisions  used 
here  are  imported  from  the  Provinces. 

The  resident  population  is  3,187  (of  whom  24  are  Protestant),  and  the 
government  is  conducted  by  a  Commandant,  a  Police  Magistrate,  Doctor, 
Apostolic  Prefect,  and  Er.gineer,  with  a  few  artillerists  and  gens-d'armes. 
There  is  usually  one  or  more  French  frigates  in  the  harbor,  looking  after 
the  vast  fisheries  which  employ  15,000  sailors  of  France,  and  return 
30,000,000  francs'  worth  of  fish. 

St.  Pierre  is  the  chief  rendezvous  of  the  French  fishermen,  and  immense  fleets  are 
sometimes  gathered  lierc.  Over  1,000  sail  of  square-rigged  vessels  from  France  aro 
engaged  in  tlicse  fislicrics,  and  on  the  29th  of  .lunc,  1874,  the  roadstead  near  the 
island  contained  350  sail  of  square-rigged  vessels  and  300  fore-and-aft  vessels.  They 
are  here  furnished  with  supplies,  which  are  drawn  from  the  adjacent  Provinces,  and 
in  return  leave  many  of  the  luxuries  of  Old  France.  It  is  claimed  tliat  the  brandy 
of  St.  Pierre  is  the  best  in  America.  The  fishermen  leave  their  fish  here  to  be  cured, 
and  from  this  point  they  arc  sent  S.  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies. 

Little  Mirpielon  Island^  or  Langley  Island,  lies  3  M.  N.  W.  of  St.  Pierre,  and  is 
about  24  M.  around.  It  is  joined  to  Great  Miquelon  Island  by  a  long  and 
narrow  sandy  isthmus.  The  latter  island  is  12  M.  long,  and  looks  out  on  Fortune 
Bay.  Near  its  N.  end  are  the  singular  hills  known  as  Mt.  Chapeau  and  Mt.  Cal- 
vaire.  On  this  island,  during  the  summer  of  1874,  was  wrecked  H.  B.  M.  frigate 
Niobe,  the  brave  ship  that  trained  her  guns  on  Santiago  de  Cuba,  and  prevented  a 
total  massacre  of  the  Virginiiis  prisoners. 

St.  Pierre  was  captured  by  a  British  fleet  in  1793,  and  all  its  inhabitants,  1,502  in 
number,  were  carried  away  to  Halifax,  whence  they  were  soon  afterwards  sent  to 
France.  In  1796  a  French  Republican  fleet  under  Admiral  Richery  visited  the  de- 
serted island,  and  completely  destroyed  its  buildings  and  wharves.  It  was,  how- 
ever, restored  to  France  in  1814,  together  with  her  ancient  privileges  in  these 
waters.  "All  the  island  is  only  a  great  laboratory  for  the  preparation,  curing, 
and  exportation  of  codfish.  For  the  rest,  not  a  tree,  not  a  bush,  above  25  centi- 
metres." 


<N 


^m 


le  fisher- 
only  for 
and  in- 
ed.  Tho 
here  arc 
taverns, 
itality  to 
mmunity 
!,  printed 
n. 

iring  the 
shermen, 
,  Bretons, 
rt;  while 
virons  of 
ions  used 

,  and  the 

,  Doctor, 

-d'armes. 

Ling  after 

3d  return 


e  fleets  are 
France  nro 
1  near  the 
!el8.  They 
rinces,  and 
the  brandy 
3  be  cured, 
idies. 

rre,  and  is 
I  long  and 
)n  Fortune 
d  Mt.  Cal- 
M.  frigate 
irevented  a 

is,  1,502  in 
ds  sent  to 
ted  the  de- 
was,  how- 
s  in  these 
n,  curing, 
25  centi- 


iU 


^ 


NEWFOUNDLAND 


Is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  N.  by  the 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  on  the  E.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  From 
N.  to  S.  it  is  350  M.  long,  and  the  average  breadth  is  130  M.,  giving  an 
OS 'mated  area  of  40,200  square  miles.  The  coast  is  steep  and  bold,  and 
is  indented  with  numerous  deep  bays  and  fiords.  Mines  of  lead  and  cop- 
per are  being  worked  with  much  success,  and  there  are  large  undeveloped 
deposits  of  coal  on  the  V7  coast. 

"  Up  go  the  surges  on  the  coast  of  Newfoundland,  and  down  again  into  the  sea. 
The  hufe  island  ....  standi,  with  its  sheer,  beetling  cliffs,  out  of  the  ocean,  a  mon- 
strous mass  of  reck  and  gravel,  almost  without  soil,  like  a  stiunge  thing  from  i\i'* 
bottom  of  the  great  deep,  lifted  up  suddenly  into  sunshine  and  storm,  but  belong- 
ing to  the  watery  darkness  out  of  which  it  has  been  reared.  Tlie  eye  accustomed  to 
richer  and  softer  scenes  finds  something  of  a  strange  and  almost  startling  beauty  in 
its  bold,  hard  outlines,  cut  out  on  every  side  against  tho  sky Inland,  sur- 
rounded by  a  fringe  of  small  forests  on  tlie  coasts,  is  a  vast  wilderness  of  moss,  and 
rock,  and  lake,  and  dwarf  firs  about  breast-high.  These  little  trees  are  so  close  and 
stiff  and  flat-topped  that  one  can  almost  walk  on  them.    Of  course  they  are  very  hard 

things  to  make  way  througli  and  among In  March  or  April  almost  all  tho 

men  go  out  in  fltets  to  meet  the  ice  that  iloats  down  from  the  northern  regions  and 
to  kill  the  .ecals  that  come  down  on  it.  In  early  summer  a  third  part  or  a  half  of 
all  the  people  go,  by  families,  in  their  schooners,  to  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and 
spend  the  summer  fishing  there  ;  and  in  the  winter,  half  of  them  are  living  iu  tho 
woods,  in  tilts,  to  have  their  fuel  near  them.  At  home  or  abroad,  during  tho  sea- 
son, the  men  are  on  the  water  for  seals  or  cod.  The  women  sow,  and  plant,  and 
tend  the  little  gardens,  and  dry  the  fish ;  in  short,  they  do  the  land-work,  and  are 
the  better  for  it."  (R.  T.  S.  Lowell.) 

Two  of  tlic  most  remarkable  features  of  the  natui*cil  history  of  the  island 
are  thus  quaintly  set  forth  by  Whltbourne  (nnwo  1G22) :  "  Neither  are  there 
any  Snakes,  Toads,  Serpents,  or  any  other  venomous  Wormes  that  ever 
were  knownc  to  hurt  any  man  in  that  country,  but  only  a  very  little  nim- 
ble fly  (the  least  of  all  other  flies),  which  is  called  a  Miskieto;  those  flies 
seem  to  have  a  great  power  and  authority  upon  all  loytering  and  idle  peo- 
ple that  come  to  the  Newfoundland."  Instances  have  been  known  where 
the  flies  have  attacked  men  with  such  venom  and  multitudes  that  fatal 
results  have  followed.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  are  vast  luiexplored 
regions,  studded  with  large  lakes  and  mountain-ranges.  Through  these 
solitudes  roam  countless  thousands  of  deer,  which  are  pursued  by  the  Mic- 
mac  hunters. 

Newfoundland  was  discovered  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  tenth  century, 
but  they  merely  observed  the  coast  and  made  no  further  explorations. 


*l 


188      Route  51. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


I    I 


■:i 


II 


There  is  good  reason  for  supposing  that  it  was  frequented  by  Breton  and 
Norman  fishermen  during  tlie  fourteenth  century.  In  1497  the  island  was 
formally  discovered  by  John  Cabot,  who  was  voyaging  under  the  patron- 
age of  Henry  VII.  of  England.  The  explorations  of  Cortereal  (1501),  Vc- 
razzano  (1624),  and  Carrier  (1534),  all  touched  here,  and  great  fishing- 
fleets  began  to  visit  the  surrounding  seas.  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  took 
possession  of  Newfoundland  in  the  naiDo  of  England,  in  1583,  making 
this  the  most  ancient  colony  of  the  British  Empire.  The  settlements 
of  Guy,  Whitbourne,  Calvert,  and  others  were  soon  established  on  the 
coast. 

The  fishermen  were  ten'ibly  persecuted  by  pirates  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  17th  century.  Peter  Easton  alone  had  10  sail  of  corsairs  on  the 
coast,  claiming  that  ho  was  "master  of  the  seas,"  and  levying  heavy 
taxes  on  all  the  vessels  in  these  waters.  Between  1612  and  16G0  alone, 
the  pirates  captured  180  pieces  of  ordnance,  1,080  fishermen,  and  largo 
fleets  of  vessels. 

Between  1692  and  1713  the  French  made  vigorous  attempts  to  conquer 
the  island,  and  the  struggle  raged  with  varying  fortunes  on  the  E.  and  S. 
shores.  By  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  the  French  received  permission  to  catch 
and  cure  fish  along  the  W.  coast  (see  Route  61).  In  1728  Newfoundland 
was  formed  into  a  Province,  and  courts  were  established.  The  French  made 
determined  attacks  in  1761  and  1796,  and  the  people  were  reduced  to 
great  extremity  by  the  Non-Intercourse  Act  passed  by  the  American  Con- 
gress in  1776  and  again  in  1812-14.  In  1817  there  were  80,000  inhab- 
itants, and  800  vessels  were  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  whose  product  was 
valued  at  $  10,000,000  a  year.  In  1832  the  first  Legislative  Assembly  was 
convened;  in  1838  a  geological  survey  was  made;  and  in  1858  the  Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable  was  landed  on  these  shores.  Newfoundland  has  re- 
fused to  enter  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  is  still  governed  directly  by 
the  British  Crown. 


51.  Halifax  to  St  John's,  Newfonndland. 

The  ocean  steamships  between  Halifax  and  Liverpool  call  atSt.  John^s  fortnightly. 
Their  course  after  leaving  Halifax  is  directly  to  the  N.  E.  across  the  open  sea,  giving 
Cape  Ilace  a  wide  berth.  The  fare  on  these  vessels  is  higher  than  it  is  on  the  Virgo, 
and  the  accommodations  arc  superior ;  but  the  voyager  does  not  get  the  interesting 
views  of  the  Canso  and  Cape-Breton  shores. 

The  Eastern  Steamship  Company's  vessel,  the  Virgo,  leaves  Halifax  on  alternate 
Tuesdays,  for  Sydney  and  St.  John's,  carrying  the  Royal  mails.  The  fare  is  §  15 
(steerage,  $5).    This  steamship  is  large,  and  is  well  arranged  for  passenger-traffic. 

Halifax  to  Sydney,  see  page  148. 

After  leaving  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  Flint  Island  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  tho 
blue  ranges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  on  the  1.  The  course  is  but  little  N.  of 
E.,  and  the  horizon  soon  becomes  level  and  landless.  Sometimes  the  dim 
blue  hills  of  St.  Pierre  are  the  first  land  seen  after  the  Cape-Breton  coast 


»^3» 


Ea> 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


Route  52.      189 


eton  and 

land  wns 

0  patron- 

01),  Vc- 

fishlng- 
bert  took 

makinw 

ttlernents 
3d  on  tho 

le  earlier 
irs  on  tho 
n^  heavy 
3G0  alone, 
and  largo 

0  conquer 
E.  and  S. 

1  to  catch 
Ibundland 
nch  made 
3duced  to 
lean  Cou- 
00  Inhab- 
)duct  was 
mbly  was 
he  Atlan- 
d  has  re- 
irectly  by 


)rtnj*ghtly. 
sea,  giving 
the  Virgo^ 
nteresting 

alternate 
ire  is  §  15 
r-traffic. 


, and  tho 
tie  N.  of 
the  dim 
on  coast 


I 


sfnks  below  tho  horizon ;  but  generally  the  bold  mountain-promontory  of 
Cape  Chapeau  Rouge  is  the  first  recognizable  shore.  Then  the  deep  bight 
of  Placentia  Bay  opens  away  on  tlio  N.  After  rounding  Cape  Race  (see 
Iloute  22),  the  steamsliip  stretches  away  up  the  Strait  Shore  past  a  lino 
of  fishing  hamlets,  deep  fiords,  and  rocky  capes. 

*'  When  the  mists  dispersed,  the  rocky  shores  of  Newfoundland  were  cloge  upon 
our  left,  —  lofty  clilTs,  red  and  gray,  terribly  beaten  by  the  waves  of  the  broad  ocean. 
We  amused  ourselves,  as  we  passed  abreast  the  bays  and  lieaillandK  and  ru.i^ged 
islands,  with  gazing  at  the  wild  scene,  and  searching  out  the  beauty  timidly  reposing 
among  the  bleak  and  desolate.  On  the  whole,  Newfoundland,  to  tho  voyager  from 
the  States,  is  a  lean  and  bony  land,  in  thin,  ragged  clothes,  with  tho  smallest  amount 
of  adornment.  Along  the  sides  of  the  dull,  brown  mountains  there  is  a  suspicion 
of  verdure,  spotted  and  striped  here  and  there  with  meagre  woods  of  birch  and  flr. 
The  glory  of  this  hard  region  is  its  coast :  a  wonderful  perplexity  of  fiords,  bays  and 
creeks,  islands,  peninsuhus  and  capes,  endlessly  picturesque,  and  very  often  magnifi- 
cently grand.  Nothing  can  well  exceed  the  headlands  and  precipices,  honeycombed, 
shattered,  and  hollowed  out  into  vast  caverns, and  given  up  to  the  thunders  and  tho 

fury  of  tlie  deep-sea  billows The  brooks  that  How  from  tho  highlands,  and  fall 

over  cliffs  of  great  elevation  into  the  very  surf,  and  that  would  be  counted  features 
of  grandeur  in  some  countries,  are  here  the  merest  trifles,  a  kind  of  jewelry  on  the 
hem  of  the  landscape."    (Noble.) 

"  The  first  view  of  tho  harbor  of  St.  John's  is  very  striking.  Lofty  precipitous 
clilTs,of  hard  dark-red  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  range  along  the  coast,  with  deep 
water  close  at  their  feet.  Their  beds  plunge  from  a  height  of  4U0  -  700  ft. ,  at  an  angle 
of  70°,  right  into  the  sea,  whore  they  are  ceaselessly  dashed  agaiust  by  the  unbroken 
swellof  the  Atlantic  waves."    (Jukes.) 

52.   St  John's,  Newfonndland. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  "  The  harbor  of  St.  John's  is  certainly  one  of  the 

most  remarkable  for  bold  and  effective  scenery  on  the  Atlantic  shore We  were 

moving  spiritedly  forward  over  a  bright  and  lively  sea,  watching  the  stem  headlands 
receding  in  the  south,  and  starting  out  to  view  in  the  north,  when  we  passed  Capo 
Spear,  a  lofty  promontory,  crowned  with  a  lighthouse  and  a  signal-staff,  upon  which 
was  floating  the  meteor  flag  of  England,  and  at  once  found  ourselves  abreast  the 
bay  in  front  of  St.  John's.  Not  a  vestige,  though,  of  anything  like  a  city  was  in 
sight,  except  another  flag  flitting  on  a  distant  pinnacle  of  rock.  Like  a  mighty 
Coliseum,  the  sea-wall  half  encircled  the  deep  water  of  this  outer  bay,  into  which 
the  full  power  of  the  ocean  let  itself  under  every  wind  except  the  westerly.  Right 
towards  the  coast  where  it  gathered  itself  up  into  the  greatest  massiveness,  and  tied 
itself  into  a  very  Gordian  knot,  we  cut  across, curious  to  behold  7hen  and  where  the 
rugged  adamant  was  going  to  split  and  let  us  through.  At  length  it  opened,  and  we 
looked  through,  and  presently  glided  through  a  kind  of  mountain-pass,  with  all  the 
lonely  grandeur  of  the  Franconia  Notch.  Above  us,  and  close  above,  the  rugged, 
brown  cliffs  rose  to  a  fine  height,  armed  at  certain  points  with  cannon,  ajd  before 
us,  to  all  appearance,  opened  out  a  most  beautiful  mountain  lake,  with  a  little  city 
looking  down  from  the  mountain-side,  and  a  swamp  of  shipping  along  its  shores.  We 
were  in  the  harbor,  and  before  St.  John's."    (Noble.) 

Hotels.  —  The  Union  House,  379  Water  St.  (nearly  1 M.  from  the  Custom  House), 
is  the  best ;  Atlantic  House,  Water  St.  There  are  also  two  or  three  boarding- 
houses,  which  are  preferable  to  the  hotels,  if  a  long  sta?  is  to  be  made.  Mrs. 
Simms's,  353  Water  St. ,  is  one  of  the  best  of  these :  and  Knight's  Home,  173  Water  St., 
is  tolerable.  The  accommodations  for  visitors  to  St.  John's  are  not  such  as  might 
be  desired  or  expected  in  a  city  of  so  much  importance. 

Carriages  may  be  engaged  at  the  stands  on  Water  St.  (near  tho  Post-Offlce). 
The  rate  per  hour  is  80c. 

Amusements^  generally  of  merely  local  interest,  are  prepared  in  Temper- 
ance Hall  or  the  Avalon  (Victoria)  Rink.  Boat-racing  is  freq[uently  carried  on  at 
Quiddy-Viddy  Pond.    Cricket-matches  are  also  played  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 

Post-Office,  at  the  Market  House,  on  Water  St.  Telegraphy  New  York,  New- 
foundland, and  London  Co.,  at  the  Market  House. 


<[i«lli«iAigW(>i'n' 


190      Route  02. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


i! 


I 


T 


I 


i 


liH 


•  ■  I 


I 


III  I 


'■   \\ 


Con«ilate«.  —  Ainorirnn,  140  Water  St.;  Fronoh,  Siprnftl-IIill  Rond  ;  German, 
227  Water  St.  ;  Siiaiiiwli,  lUi  Coeliraiu!  St. ;  I'drtiinuesc,  '^Hr,  Water  St. 

MalUAVHy;oiiH  leave?  St.  .lohn's  for  INirtiijtal  Cove,  dally  ;  for  Topsail,  Ilolyrood, 
Harbor  Main,  nriKii.><,  May  Koberts,  and  llarhor  (iraee.  Mondays  ami  TlmrsdayH  (or 
lifter  arrival  of  mail  from  llallfa.x)  in  uinter,  and  once  weekly  in  sunnner;  to  Itay 
Hulls  and  Ferryiand,  \veekly  ;  to  S^faluionier  and  IMueeutia,  on  thu  day  of  arrival  uf 
tlio  Halifax  mail. 

SteaniHlilpH.  —  For  Bay  Vcrd,  Old  Porllrnn,  Trinity,  Cntnlina,  IlonftvlRtn, 
Cireenspond,  Fogo,  Twillinpatc,  Exploits  Island,  Tilt  Cove,  Little  Hay  island,  Nip- 
per'rt  Harbor,  and  the  Labrador  eoa.-^t,  fortnightly,  on  Monday;  to  Ferr\land,  llo- 
iiewsc,  Trt'l)aflsey,  Hnrin,  St.  I'ierro,  Harbor  IJrlton,  IJurgeo,  Little  Hay  (Ln  I'oile), 
nnd  Channel,  fortnlRlitly,  on  Thursday  or  Friday  (pas.-ing  on  to  Sydney,  C.  H.,eiieli 
nltornato  trip) ;  to  the  i)ort.s  on  Conreptlon  Hay  several  times  a  week,  from  I'ortupil 
Cove  (iseo  HoutcGO);  to  Halifax,  fortnightly,  by  the  Eastern  Steamship  Co  's  ves- 
del,  the  Virf(o  ;  to  Halifax,  fortnightly,  by  vtoaniships  of  tbo  Alluu  Liuu;  toLoudoo- 
derry  and  Liverpool,  fortnightly,  by  the  Allan  Liuo. 

St.  John's,  tlio  capital  of  the  Provinco  of  Mcwfoumlland,  is  situated  in 
latitude  47'  33'  G"  N.,  and  longitude  52"  44'  7"  W.,  nnd  is  built  on  the 
slope  of  a  long  hill  which  rises  from  the  shore  of  a  deep  and  secure  har- 
bor. At  the  time  of  the  ccn.sus  of  1869  there  were  22,555  inhabitants  in 
the  city  (there  are  now  over  25,000):  but  the  population,  owing  to  the 
peculiar  character  of  its  chief  industry,  is  liable  at  any  time  to  bo  in- 
creased or  diminished  by  several  thousand  men.  The  greater  part  of  the 
citizens  are  connected  with  the  fisheries,  directly  or  indirectly,  and  large 
fleets  are  despatched  from  the  port  throughout  the  season.  Their  return, 
or  the  arrival  of  the  sealing-stcamors,  with  their  great  crews,  brings  new 
life  to  the  streets,  and  oftentimes  results  in  such  general  "rows"  as  re- 
quire the  attendance  of  a  large  police-force.  The  interests  of  the  city  are 
all  with  the  sea,  from  which  arc  drawn  its  revenues,  and  over  which  pass 
the  fleets  which  bring  in  provisions  from  the  Provinces  and  States  lO  the 
S.  W.  The  manufactures  of  St.  John's  are  insignificant,  and  consist,  for 
the  most  part,  of  biscuit-bakeries  and  oil-refineries  (on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  harbor).  An  immense  business  is  done  by  the  mercantile  houses 
on  Water  St.  in  furnishing  supplies  to  the  outports  (a  term  applied  to  all 
the  other  ports  of  Newfoundland  except  St.  .John's);  and  one  firm  alone 
has  a  trade  amounting  to  $12,000,000  a  year.  Fpr  about  one  month, 
during  the  busy  season,  the  streets  are  absolutely  crowded  with  the  people 
from  the  N.  and  W.  coasts,  selling  their  fish  and  oil,  and  laying  in  pro- 
visions and  other  supplies  for  the  ensuing  year.  The  commercial  interests 
are  served  by  three  banks  and  a  chamber  of  commerce ;  and  the  literary 
standard  of  society  is  maintained  by  the  St.  John's  Athena;um  and  the 
Catholic  Institute.  The  city  is  supplied  with  gas,  and  water  is  brought 
in  from  a  lake  4^  JI.  distant,  by  works  which  cost  $  360,000. 

_  "  In  trying  to  describe  St.  .Tohn's,  there  is  some  difficulty  in  applying  an  adjec- 
tive to  it  siifiiciently  distinctive  and  appropriate.  We  find  other  cities  coupled  with 
words  which  at  once  give  their  predominant  characteristic ;  London  the  richest, 
Pari.s  the  gayest,  St.  Petersburg  the  coldest.  In  one  respect  the  chief  town  of  New- 
foundland has,  I  believe,  no  rival ;  we  may,  therefore,  call  it  the  fishiest  of  modern 
ca,_itals.  Round  a  great  part  of  the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  with 
cod  split  in  half,  laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  is 


J^^ 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


Route  52.      191 


d ;  Ocnnan, 

I.IIolyrootl, 
mrsila.vH  (or 
lUT ;  to  liny 
t)f  arrival  of 

Uonavlstn, 
IhIiuuI,  N'lp. 
•r\lun(l,  He- 
'  (l-'i  I'ollc), 

,(J.  H.,CMWh 

oni  I'ortiifjial 
p  Co  's  vi's- 
to  London- 


situfitcd  in 
iilt  on  the 
ecuro  har- 
ivbitnnts  in 
ing  to  tlio 
3  to  be  in- 
psirt  of  tlio 
,  and  large 
leir  return, 
jrings  new 
\vs"  as  re- 
ho  city  are 
ivhich  pass 
ites  lO  the 
consist,  lor 
posite  side 
tile  houses 
)li"d  to  all 
firm  alone 
ne  month, 
the  people 
ng  in  pro- 
al  interests 
le  literary 
n  and  the 
is  brought 


ig  an  adjcc- 
juplcd  with 
the  richest, 
wn  of  Ncw- 
;  of  modern 
roofed  with 
for  there  ia 


t 


^» 


^ 


not  much  of  the  former  to  depend  upon The  town  l«  irregular  and  dirty,  l)uilt 

chleliy  of  wood,  the  duuipnesH  of  the  eliuiato  renderiug  stouo  uusuituble."  (EnoT 
Wardurton.) 

The  harbor  is  small,  but  deep,  and  is  so  thoroughly  landlocked  that  the 
water  is  always  smooth.  Here  may  generally  be  seen  two  or  three  Uritish 
and  French  frigates,  and  at  the  close  of  the  season  these  narrow  waters  are 
well  filled  with  the  vessels  of  the  fishing-fleets  and  the  powerful  sealing- 
steamers.  Along  the  shores  are  the  fish-stages,  Avhere  immense  quantities 
of  cod,  herring,  and  salmon  are  cured  and  made  ready  for  exportation. 
On  the  S.  shore  are  several  wharves  right  under  the  clifi's,  and  also  a  float- 
ing dock  which  takes  up  vessels  of  800  tons'  burden.  The  entrance  to  the 
harbor  is  called  the  *  Narrows,  and  is  a  stupendous  cleft  in  the  massive 
ridge  which  lines  the  coast.  It  is  about  1,800  ft.  long,  and  at  its  narrow- 
est point  is  but  6G0  ft.  wide.  On  cither  side  rise  precipitous  walls  of  sand- 
stone and  conglomerate,  of  which  Signal  Hill  (on  the  N.  side)  reaches  an 
altitude  of  520  ft.,  and  the  southern  ridge  is  nearly  700  ft.  high.  Vessels 
coming  in  from  the  ocean  are  unable  to  see  the  Narrows  until  close  upon 
it,  and  steer  for  the  lofty  block-house  on  Signal  Hill.  The  points  at  the 
entrance  were  formerly  well  fortified,  and  during  war-time  the  harbor  was 
closed  by  a  chain  drawn  across  the  Narrows,  but  the  batteries  are  now  in 
a  neglected  condition,  and  are  nearly  disarmed. 

The  city  occupies  the  rugged  hill  on  the  N.  of  the  harbor,  and  is  built 
on  three  parallel  streets,  connected  by  steep  side-streets.  The  houses  are 
mostly  low  and  unpainted  wooden  buildings,  crowding  out  on  the  side- 
walks, and  the  general  appearance  is  that  of  poverty  and  thriftlessness. 
Even  the  wealthy  merchants  generally  occupy  houses  for  beneath  their 
station,  since  they  seem  to  regard  Newfoundland  as  a  place  to  get  for- 
tunes in  and  then  retire  to  England  to  make  their  homes.  This  prin- 
ciple was  universally  acted  on  in  former  years,  but  latterly  pleasant  villas 
are  being  erected  in  the  suburbs,  and  a  worthier  architectural  appearance 
is  desired  and  expected  for  the  ancient  capital.  Water  Street  is  the  main 
business  thoroughfare,  and  follows  the  curves  of  the  harbor  shore  for  about 
lA  M.  Its  lower  side  is  occupied  by  the  great  mercantile  houses  which 
supply  "  fish-and-fog-land  "  with  provisions,  clothing,  and  household  re- 
quirements; and  the  upper  side  is  lined  with  an  alternation  of  cheap  shops 
and  liquor-saloons.  In  the  K.  part  is  the  Custom  House,  and  near  the  cen- 
tre is  the  spacious  building  of  the  Market-Hall  and  the  Post-Office.  To  the 
S.,  Water  Street  connects  with  the  causeway  and  bridge  of  boats  which 
crosses  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Admonished  by  several  disastrous  fires, 
the  city  has  caused  Water  St.  to  be  built  upon  in  a  substantial  manner, 
and  the  stores,  though  very  plain,  are  solidly  and  massively  constructed. 

The  Anglican  Cathedral  stands  about  midway  up  the  hill,  over  the 
old  burying-ground.  It  was  planned  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  the  most  emi- 
nent British  architect  of  the  pi*esent  era,  and  is  in  the  early  English  Gothic 


nii" 

f  p 

, 

*. ; 

! 

m 


1:1     i 


192      Route  52. 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


architecture.  Owing  to  the  inability  of  the  Church  to  raise  sufficient  funds 
(for  the  missions  at  tlie  outports  demand  all  her  revenues),  the  cathedral 
is  but  partly  finished,  the  end  of  the  nave  being  boarded  up  and  fuvnished 
with  a  cheap  temporary  altai'.  The  lofty  proportions  of  the  interior  and 
the  fine  Gothic  colonnades  of  stone  between  the  nave  and  aisles,  together 
with  the  high  lancet-windows,  form  a  pleasant  picture. 

The  *  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  the  most  stately  building  in  New- 
foundland, and  occupies  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  commanding  a  noble  *  view 
over  the  city  and  harbor  and  adjacent  country,  and  looking  through  the 
Narrows  on  to  the  open  sea.  The  prospect  from  the  cathedral  terrace  on 
a  moonlight  ni^,  it  or  at  the  time  of  a  clear  sunrise  or  sunset  is  especially 
to  be  commended.  In  the  front  part  of  the  grounds  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
St.  Peter,  and  other  large  statues  are  seen  near  the  building.  The  cathe- 
dral is  an  immense  stone  structui'e,  with  twin  towers  on  the  front,  and  is 
surrounded  with  a  long  internal  corridor,  or  cloister.  There  are  no  aisles, 
but  the  whole  building  is  thrown  into  a  broad  nave,  from  which  the  tran- 
septs diverge  to  N.  and  S.  The  stone  of  which  it  is  constructed  was 
brought  from  Conception  Bay  and  from  Dunleary,  Ireland,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  by  the  free  and  voluntary  labors  of  the  people.  Clustered 
about  the  cathedral  are  the  Blsho2}''s  Palace,  the  convent  and  its  schools, 
and  St.  Boiiaventure^s  College  (5  professors),  where  the  missionaries  are 
disciplined  and  the  Catholic  youth  are  taught  in  the  higher  branches  of 
learning.  ♦ 

Catholicism  was  founded  on  the  island  Vj  Sir  George  Calvert  (see  Route  54)  and 
by  tbe  Bishop  of  Quebec  ;  suffered  persecution  from  1762  to  1784,  when  all  priests 
were  banished  (though  some  returned  in  disguise) ;  and  pfterwards  gained  tlie  cliief 
power  as  a  consequence  of  Irish  immigration,  upon  which  the  bisliops  became  arro- 
gant and  autocratic,  and  tlic  Trovince  was,  practically,  governed  from  Cathedral 
Hill.  The  great  pile  of  religious  buildings  then  erected  on  this  commanding  height 
cost  over  §500,000,  and  the  present  revenues  of  the  diocese  are  princely  in  amount, 
being  collected  by  the  priest'^.,  v  ho  board  the  arriving  fishing-vessels  and  assess  their 
pcoplii.    The  Irish  Catholics  form  a  great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John's. 

Near  the  cathedral  are  the  old  barracks  of  the  Royal  Newfoundland 
Companies  and  the  garrisons  from  the  British  army.  The  Military  Road 
runs  along  the  crest  of  the  heights,  and  affords  pleasant  views  over  the 
harbor.  On  this  road  is  the  Colonial  Building^,  a  substantial  structure 
of  gray  stone,  well  retired  from  the  carriage-way,  and  adorned  with  a 
massive  portico  of  Doric  columns  upholding  a  pediment  which  is  occupied 
by  the  Royal  Arms  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  The  colonial  legislature 
meets  in  this  building,  and  occupies  plain  but  comfortable  halls.  The 
Government  House  is  N.  of  the  Colonial  Building,  and  is  the  official  man- 
sion of  the  governor  of  the  Province  (Col.  S.  J.  Hill,  C.  B.).  It  was  built 
in  1828-30,  and  cos.  $240,000.  The  surrounding  grounds  are  pleasantly 
diversified  with  groves,  flower-beds,  and  walks,  and  are  much  visited  by 
the  aristocracy  of  St.  John's,  during  the  shcrt  but  brilliant  summer 
season. 


r 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


Route  52.      193 


Relent  funds 
he  catliednil 
nd  fuvnished 
interior  and 
lies,  together 

cling  in  New- 
noble  *  view 
;  through  the 
\\  terrace  on 
is  especially 
isal  statue  of 
The  cathe- 
front,  and  is 
are  no  aisles, 
ich  the  tran- 
sti'ucted  was 
md  the  walls 
3.  Clustered 
,d  its  schools, 
islonarles  are 
f  branches  of 
• 

Route  54)  and 
hen  all  priests 
lined  the  chief 
s  became  arro- 
rom  Cathedral 
nanding  height 
ely  in  amount, 
ind  assess  their 
M.  John's. 

Newfoundland 
Tilitary  Road 
ews  over  the 
tial  structure 
orned  with  a 
h  is  occupied 
ial  legislature 
J  halls.  The 
official  man- 
It  was  built 
,re  pleasantly 
ch  visited  by 
iant  summer 


"!■ 


*• 


I 


Passing  out  through  the  poor  suburb  called  "Maggotty  Cove,"  a  walk 
of  about  20  minutes  leads  to  the  top  of  *  Signal  Hill. 

"  High  above,  on  our  r.,  a  ruined  monolith,  on  a  mountain-peak  (Crow's  Nest), 
marks  the  site  oif  an  old  battery,  while  to  the  1.,  sunk  in  a  hollow,  a  black  bog  lies 
sheltered  amid  the  bare  bones  "of  mother  earth,  here  mainly  composed  of  dark  red 
sandstones  and  conglomerate,  passing  down  by  regular  gradations  to  the  slate  below. 
A  sudden  turn  of  the  road  reveals  a  deep  solitary  tarn,  sone  350  ft.  above  the  sea, 
in  which  the  guardian  rocks  retljct  their  purple  faces,  and  where  the  ripple  of  the 
muskrat,  hurrying  across,  alone  disturbs  the  placid  surface.  We  pass  a  hideous- 
looking  barrack,  and,  crossing  the  soft  velvety  sward  on  the  crest,  reach  a  little  bat- 
tery, from  the  parapets  of  which  we  look  down,  down,  almost  500  ft.  perp<jni! ^cu- 
larly,  right  into  '  the  Narrows,'  the  strait  or  creek  between  the  hills  connecting  the 
broad  Atlantic  with  the  oval  harbor  within.  The  great  south-side  hills,  covered 
with  luxuriant  wild  vegetation,  and  skeined  with  twisting  torrents,  loom  a'iross  the 
strait  so  close  that  one  might  fancy  it  almost  possible  a  stone  could  fly  from  the 
hand  to  the  opposite  shore.  On  our  left  the  vast  ocean,  with  nothing  —  not  a  rock 
—  between  us  and  Oalway ;  on  our  right,  at  the  other  end  of  the  narrow  neck  of 
water  directly  beneath,  the  inner  basin,  expanding  towards  the  city,  with  t'.io  back- 
ground of  blue  hills  as  a  setting  to  the  picture,  broken  only  in  their  continuous  out- 
line by  the  twin  towers  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  ever  tnus  from  all  points  perform- 
ing their  mission  of  conspicuity.  Right  below  us,  400  ft.  perpendicular,  we  lean 
over  the  grass  parapet  and  look  carefully  down  into  the  little  battery  p'iarding  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  eutering-strait,  where,  in  the  old  wars,  heavy  chains  stretched 

from  shore  to  shore The  Narrows  are  full  of  fishing-boats  returning  with  the 

silver  spoils  of  the  day  glistening  in  the  hold  of  the  smacks,  which,  to  the  number 
of  forty  or  fifty  at  a  time,  tack  and  fill  like  a  fleet  of  white  swans  against  the  western 
evening  breeze.  Even  as  we  look  down  on  the  decks,  they  come,  and  still  they  come, 
round  the  bluff  point  of  Fort  Amherst,  from  the  bay  outside."   (Lt.-Coi,.  McCrea.) 

"  After  dinner  we  set  off  for  Signal  Hill,  the  grand  observatory  of  the  country, 

both  by  nature  and  art Little  rills  rattled  by ;  paths  wound  among  rocky 

notches  and  grassy  chasms,  and  led  out  to  dizzy  '  over-looks '  and  '  short-offs.'  The 
town  with  its  thousand  smokes  sat  in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  and  seemed  to  eujoy 

the  spectacle  of  sails  a:id  colors  in  the  harbor We  struck  into  a  fine  military 

road,  and  passed  spacioas  stone  barracks,  soldiers  and  soldiers'  families,  goats  and 
little  gardens.  From  the  observatory,  situated  on  the  craggy  peninsula,  both  the 
rugged  interior  and  the  expanse  of  ocean  were  before  us."   (Noble.) 


"  Britones  et  Nonnani  anno  a  Christo  nato  MCCCCCIIII.  has  terras  invenere  "  ; 
and  in  August,  1527,  14  sail  of  Norman,  Breton,  and  Portuguese  vesseiJ  were  shel- 
tered in  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  In  1542  the  Sieur  de  lloberval,  Viceroy  of  New 
France,  entered  here  with  3  .-hips  and  200  colonists  bound  for  Quebec.  He  found  17 
vessels  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  soon  afterward  there  arrived  Jacques  Cartier 
and  the  Quebec  colonists,  discouraged,  and  returning  to  France.  Roberval  ordered 
him  back,  but  he  stole  out  of  the  harbor  during  the  darkness  of  night  and  returned 
to  France.  A  few  years  later  the  harbor  was  visited  by  the  exploring  ship  Mary  of 
Guilford,  and  the  reverend  Canon  of  St  Paul,  who  ha  underiaken  the  unpriestly 
function  of  a  discoveier,  sent  hence  a  chronicle  of  t.ie  voyage  to  Cardinal  Wolsey. 

In  August,  1583,  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  (see  page  135)  entered  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  with  a  fleet  consisting  of  the  Delight,  Golden  Hind,  Swallow,  and  Squirrel. 
He  took  formal  possession  of  the  port  and  of  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  receiving 
the  obedience  of  35  ship-masters  then  in  the  harbor.  But  the  adventurous  mari- 
nero  were  discontented  with  the  rudeness  of  the  country,  and  the  learned  Parme- 
nius  wrote  back  to  Ilakluyt :  "  My  good  Hakluyt,  of  the  manner  of  this  country 
what  shall  I  say,  when  I  see  nothing  but  a  very  wildernesse."  In  view  of  the  date 
of  Gilbert's  occupation,  Newfoundland  claims  the  proud  distinction  of  being  the 
most  ancient  colony  of  the  British  Empire.  In  1584  St.  John's  was  visited  by  the 
fleet  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  which  had  swept  the  adjacent  seas  and  left  a  line  of  bur.n- 
ing  wrecks  behind. 

In  1696  the  town  was  so  strongly  guarded  that  it  easily  repulsed  the  Chevalier 
Nesmond,  who  attacked  it  with  ten  French  men-of-war.  The  expedition  of  the 
daring  Iberville  was  more  successful,  and  occupied  the  place.    In  November,  1704, 

9  M 


::  I: 


V  E  :i 


m 


m 


I  ,i 


194     Route  52. 


ST,   JOHN'S. 


a  fleet  from  Quebec  landed  a  French  and  Indian  force  at  Placentia,  whence  they 
advanced  about  the  middle  of  January.  They  were  about  400  strong,  and  crossed 
the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  on  snow-shoes.  The  town  of  Bay  Bulls  {Beboulle)  surren- 
dered on  their  approach,  and  a  long  and  painful  niidsvinter  march  ensued,  over  the 
mountains  and  through  the  deep  snows.  The  French  militia  of  Placentia  were  sent 
in  at  dawn  to  surprise  the  fort  at  St.  John's,  but  could  not  enter  the  works  for  lack 
of  scaling-ladders ;  so  they  contented  themselves  with  occupying  the  town  and 
Quiddy  Viddy.  The  fort  was  now  besieged  for  33  days,  in  a  season  of  intense  cold, 
when  even  the  harbor  was  frozen  over ;  but  the  Knglish  held  out  valiantly,  and 
ehowered  balls  aud  bombs  upon  the  town,  finally  succeeding  iu  dislodging  the  en- 
emy and  putting  them  iu  full  retreat. 

In  June,  1762,  the  Count  d'llausonville  entered  the  Bay  Bulls  with  a  powerful 
French  fleet,  consisting  of  the  Hobusle,  74;  L'Eveilli,  64;  La  Garonne,  44;  and 
La  Lieorne,  30.  He  escorted  several  transports,  whence  1,500  soldiers  were  landed. 
This  force  marched  on  St.  John's,  which  surrendered  on  summons,  togctlier  witli 
the  English  frigate  Grammont.  Lord  Colville's  fleet  hastened  up  fr^^i  Halifax  and 
blockaded  Admiral  Pe  Ternay  in  the  harbor  of  St.  John,  while  land  lorces  were  de- 
barked at  Torbay  and  Quiddy  Viddy.  The  last-named  deUichment  (Royal  Ameri- 
cans and  Highlanders)  proceeded  to  storm  the  works  on  Signal  Hill,  but  the  French 
fought  desperately ,  and  held  them  at  bay  until  the  English  forces  from  Torbay  came 
in  and  succeeded  in  carrying  the  entire  hue  of  heights.  In  the  mean  time,  a  dense 
fog  had  settled  over  the  coast,  under  whose  protection  De  Ternay  led  his  squadron 
through  the  British  line  of  blockade,  and  gained  the  open  sea.  In  1796  a  formidable 
French  fleet,  under  Admiral  Richery  (consisting  of  7  line-of-battle  ships  and  several 
frigates),  menaced  St.  John's,  then  commanded  by  Admiral  Sir  James  Wallace. 
Strong  batteries  were  erected  along  the  Narrows ;  fire-ships  were  drawn  up  in  the 
harbor ;  a  chain  was  stretched  across  the  entrance ;  and  the  entire  body  of  the 
people  was  called  under  arms.  The  hostile  fleet  blockaded  the  port  for  many  days, 
but  waa  kept  at  bay  by  the  batteries  on  Signal  Hill ;  and  after  an  ineficctual  attempt 
at  attack,  sailed  away  to  the  S.  Feb.  12,  1816,  a  disastrous  fire  occurred  at  St. 
John's,  by  which  1,5()0  persons  were  left  homeless  ;  and  gr'>at  sufi'ering  would  have 
ensued  had  it  not  been  for  the  citizens  of  Boston,  who  despatched  a  ship  loaded  with 
prf  ,  .sions  and  clothing  for  gratuitous  distribution  among  the  impoverished  people. 
Nov.  7,  1817,  another  terrible  fire  occurred  here,  by  which  $2,000,000  worth  of 
property  was  destroyed;  and  this  was  followed,  within  2  weeks,  by  a  third  d! 
astrous  conflagration.  This  succession  of  calamities  came  near  resulting  in  tn 
abandonment  of  the  colony,  and  the  people  were  goaded  by  hunger  to  a  succef^si  > 
of  deeds  of  crime  and  to  oi^nized  violations  of  the  laws.  In  1825  the  first  highway 
•was  built  (from  St.  John's  to  Portugal  Cove) ;  in  1833  the  first  session  of  the  Colonial 
Parliament  was  held ;  and  the  first  steamship  in  the  Newfoundland  waters  arrived 
here  in  1840. 

In  1860  the  city  was  convulsed  by  a  terrible  riot,  arising  from  politico-religious 
causes,  and  threatening  wide  ruin.  An  immense  mob  of  armed  Irishmen  attacked 
and  pillaged  the  stores  on  Water  St.,  and  filled  the  lower  town  with  rapine  and  rob- 
bery. The  ancient  organization  called  the  Royal  Newfoundland  Companies  was 
ordered  out  and  posted  near  the  Market  House,  where  the  troops  suffered  for  hours 
the  gibes  of  the  plunderers,  until  they  were  fired  upon  in  the  twilight,  when 
they  returned  a  point-blank  volley,  which  caused  a  sad  carnage  in  the  insurgent 
crowd.  Then  the  great  Cathedral  bells  rang  out  wildly,  and  summoned  all  the 
rioters  to  that  building,  where  the  Bishop  exhorted  them  to  peace  and  forbearance, 
under  pain  of  excommunication.  After  a  remarkable  interview,  the  next  day,  be- 
tween the  Bishop  aud  Gov.  Sir  Alexander  Bannerman,  this  tragical  revolt  was 
ended. 

In  1870  St.  John's  had  21  sailing-vessels  and  6  steamers  engaged  in  the  sealing 
business,  and  their  crews  amounted  to  1.584  men.  In  1869  (the  latest  accessible 
statistics)  688  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of  109,043  tons,  and  employing  5,466  men,  en- 
tered this  port ;  and  in  the  same  year  there  were  cleared  hence  577  vessels,  with 
4^7  men. 


PORTUGAL  COVE. 


Route  53.      195 


whence  they 
,  and  crossed 
Oldie)  surrt'n- 
iued,  over  the 
iitia  were  sent 
ivorks  for  lack 
he  town  and 
'  intense  cold, 
sraliantly,  and 
3dging  the  en- 

th  a  powerful 
onne,  44 ;  and 
s  were  landed, 
togcfher  with 
"1  Halifiix  and 
lorces  were  de- 
(lloyal  Anieri- 
)ut  the  French 
m  Torbay  came 
tt  time,  a  dense 
a  his  squadron 
96  a  formidable 
lips  and  several 
James  Wallace, 
•awn  up  in  the 
ire  body  of  the 
for  many  days, 
ffectual  attempt 
occurred  at  St. 
■ing  would  have 
ship  loaded  with 
verished  people. 
DO  ,000  worth  of 
by  a  third  d!;' 
resulting  in  tsn: 
r  to  a  Bucccf  •=iiou 
he  first  highway 
m  of  the  Colonial 
d  waters  arrived 

politico-religious 
ishmen  attacked 
1  rapine  and  rob- 
l  Companies  was 
luffercd  for  hours 
e  twilight,  when 
in  the  insurgent 
ammoncd  all  the 
and  forbearance, 
he  next  day,  be- 
agical  revolt  was 

ed  in  the  sealing 
;  latest  accessible 
og  5,466  men,  en- 
677  vessels,  with 


,^ 


n 


53.   The  Environs  of  St.  John's. 

"  On  either  side  of  the  city  of  St.  John's,  stretching  in  a  semicircle  along  the  rug- 
ged coast,  at  an  average  radius  from  the  centre  of  7  or  8  M.,  a  number  of  little  fish- 
ing-coves or  bays  attract,  during  the  sweet  and  enjoyable  summer,  all  persons  who 
can  command  the  use  of  a  horse  to  revel  in  their  beauties,  liach  little  bay  is  but  a 
slice  of  the  high  cliffs  scooped  out  by  the  friction  of  the  mighty  pressure  of  the  At- 
lantic waves  ,  and  leading  down  to  its  shingled  beach,  each  boasts  of  a  lovely  green 
valley  through  which  infallibly  a  tumbling  noisy  trout-burn  pours  back  the  waters 
evaporated  from  the  parent  surface."    (Lt.-Col.  McCrea.) 

The  country  about  the  capital  is  not  naturally  productive,  but  has  been  made  to 
bring  forth  fruit  and  vegetables  by  careful  labor,  and  now  supports  a  considerable 
farming  population.  The  roads  are  fine,  being  for  the  most  part  macadamized  and 
free  from  mud.  3  M.  beyond  the  city  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  pleasantly  situated  ia 
a  small  forest. 

Quiddy-  Viddy  Lake  is  frequently  visited  by  the  people  of  St.  John's. 
The  favorite  drive  is  to  Portugal  Cove,  over  a  road  that  has  been  de- 
scribed as  possessing  a  "  sad  and  desolate  beauty."  This  road  passes  the 
Windsor  Lake,  or  Twenty-Mile  Pond,  "  a  large  picturesque  sheet  of  water, 
■with  some  pretty,  lonely-looking  islands."  The  inn  at  Portugal  Cove 
looks  out  on  a  handsome  cascade,  and  is  a  favorite  goal  for  wedding-tours 
from  St.  John's. 

"  The  scenery  about  Portugal  Cove  well  repays  the  ride  of  nearly  10  M.  on  a  good 
road  r^v^m  St.  John's.  It  is  wildly  romantic,  and  just  before  entering  the  village  is 
very  beautiful.  A  succession  of  lofty  hills  on  each  side  tower  over  the  road,  and 
shut  out  everything  but  their  conical  or  mammillated  peaks,  covered  with  wild 
stunted  forest  and  bold  masses  of  I'ock,  breaking  through  with  a  tiny  waterfall  from 
the  highest,  which  in  winter  hangs  down  in  perpendicular  ridges  of  yellow  ice. 
Turning  suddenly  out  of  one  of  the  wildest  scenes,  you  cross  a  little  bridge,  and  the 
romantic  scattered  village  is  hanging  over  the  abrupt  rocky  shore,  with  its  fish-flakes 
and  busy  little  anchorage  open  to  the  sight,  closed  in  the  distance  by  the  shores  of 
Conception  Bay,  lofty  and  blue,  part  of  which  are  concealed  by  the  picturesque  Belle 
Isle."    (Sir  R.  Boxnvc.\stlk.) 

"  On  approaching  Portugal  Cove,  the  eye  is  struck  by  the  serrated  and  picturesque 
outline  of  the  hills  which  run  along  the  coast  from  it  towards  Cape  St.  Francis, 
and  presently  delighted  with  the  wild  beauty  of  the  little  valley  or  glen  at  the  mouth 
of  which  the  cove  is  situated.  The  road  winds  with  several  turns  down  the  side  of 
the  valley,  into  which  some  small  brooks  hurry  their  waters,  fliushing  in  the  sun- 
shine as  they  leap  over  the  rocks  and  down  the  ledges,  through  the  dark  green  of 
the  woods.  On  turning  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hill-slopes,  the  view  opens  upoa 
Conception  Bay,  with  the  rocky  points  of  the  cove  immediately  below."    (PaoF. 

JUK.ES.) 

Another  favorite  excursion  is  to  Virginia  Water,  the  former  summer 
residence  of  the  governors  of  Newfoundland.  It  is  reached  by  way  of 
the  King's  Bridge  and  the  pretty  little  Quiddy- Viddy  Lake,  beyond  which 
the  Ballyhaly  Bog  is  crossed,  and  the  carriage  reaches  the  secluded  domain 
of  Virginia  Water.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  lake  of  deep  water,  3  M. 
in  circumference,  "indented  with  little  grass-edged  bays,  fringed  and 
feathered  to  the  limpid  edge  with  dark  dense  woods."  Beyond  this  point 
the  drive  may  be  protracted  to  Logie  Bay,  a  small  cove  between  projecting 
cliffs,  Avith  bold  aad  striking  shore  scenery.  Logie  Bay  is  4  M.,  and  Tor- 
bay  is  8-9  M.  from  St.  John's,  by  a  fine  road  which  crosses  the  high  and 
mossy  barrens,  and  affords  broad  sea-views  from  the  cliffs.  The  country 
is  thinly  settled,  and  is  crossed  by  several  trout-brooks. 


!■     .     ■ 


11 


196      Route  54. 


TORBAY. 


Logie  Bay  is  remarkable  for  the  •wildness  of  its  rock  and  cliff  scenery.  "  Nothing 
like  a  beach  is  to  be  found  anywhere  on  this  coast,  the  descent  to  the  sea  bting 
always  difficult  and  generally  impracticable.  In  Logic  Bay  the  thick-bedded  dark 
sandstones  and  ccmglonierates  stand  bold  and  bare  in  round-topped  hills  and  preci- 
pices 3  -  400  ft.  in  height,  with  occasion.al  fissures  traversing  their  jagged  cliffs, 
and  the  boiling  waves  of  the  Atlantic  curling  around  their  feet  in  white  eddies  or 
leaping  against  their  sides  with  huge  spouts  of  foam  and  spray."    (Prof.  Jukes.) 

"Torbay  is  an  arm  of  the  sea.  —  a  short,  strong  arm  with  a  slim  hand  and  finger, 
reaching  into  the  rocky  land  and  touching  the  waterfalls  and  rapids  of  a  pretty 
brook.  Here  is  a  little  village,  with  Romish  and  Protestant  steeples,  and  the  dwell- 
ings of  fishermen,  with  the  universal  appendages  of  fishing-houses,  boats,  and  flakes. 
One  seldom  looks  upon  a  hamlet  so  picturesque  and  wild."  On  the  N.  shore  of  the 
bay  is  a  long  line  of  cliffs,  3-400  ft.  high,  surf-beaten  and  majestic,  and  finely 
observed  by  taking  a  boat  out  from  Torbay  and  coasting  to  the  N.  "  Af  one  point, 
where  the  rocks  recede  from  the  main  front  and  form  a  kind  of  headland,  the  strata, 
6-8  ft.  thick,  assume  the  form  of  a  pyramid,  from  a  broad  base  of  a  hundred  yards 
or  more  running  up  to  meet  in  a  point.  The  heart  of  this  vast  cave  has  partly 
fallen  out,  and  left  the  resemblance  of  an  enormous  tent  with  cavernous  re<cs.ses 
and  halls,  in  which  the  shades  of  evening  were  already  lurking,  and  the  surf  was 
sounding  mournfully.  Occasionally  it  was  musical,  pealing  forth  like  the  low  tones 
of  a  great  organ  with  awful  solemnity.  Now  and  then,  the  gloomy  silence  of  a  min- 
ute was  broken  by  the  crash  of  a  billow  far  within,  when  the  reverberations  were 
like  the  slamming  of  great  doors." 

"  After  passing  this  grand  .specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  sea,  there  appeared 
long  rocky  reaches,  like  Egyptian  temples,  old  dead  cliffs  of  yellowish  gray  checked 
off  by  lines  and  seams  into  squares,  and  having  the  resemblance,  where  they  have 
fallen  out  into  the  oceuu,  of  doors  and  windows  opening  in  upon  the  fresher  stone." 
(Noble.) 


l!: 


54.  The  Strait  Shore  of  Avalon.— St.  John's  to  Cape  Bace. 

That  portion  of  tho  Peninsula  of  Avalon  which  fronts  to  the  eastward  on  the 
Atlantic  has  been  termed  the  Strait  Shore,  on  account  of  its  generally  undeviating 
line  of  direction.  Its  outports  may  be  visited  either  by  the  Friday  mail-con- 
veyance, through  Petty  Harbor,  Bay  Bulls,  Ferryland,  and  Kenewse,  or  by  the 
Western  Coastal  steamer  (see  Route  CO). 

Distances  toy  lload.  —  St.  John's  to  Blackhead,  4  M. ;  Petty  Harbor,  10  ; 
Bay  Bulls,  19 ;  Witless  Bay,  22  ;  Mobile,  24 ;  Toad  Cove,  26 ;  La  Manche,  32  ; 
Brigus,  34;  Cape  Broyle,  38;  Caplin  Jove,  42;  Ferryland,  44 ;  Aquafort,  48;  Fer- 
meuse,  51 ;  Renewse,  C4  ;  Cape  Race,  64. 

*'  The  road,  one  of  the  finest  I  ever  sa\?,  —  an  old-fashioned  English  gravel-road, 
smooth  and  hard  almost  as  iron,  a  very  luxury  for  the  wheels  of  a  springless  wagon, 
—  keeps  up  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  a  good-sized  trout-stream,  flowing  from  the  in- 
land valley  into  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  Contrasted  with  the  bold  repions  that 
front  the  ocean,  these  valleys  are  soft  and  fertile.  We  passed  smooth  meadows,  and 
sloping  plough-lands,  and  green  pastures,  and  houses  peeping  out  of  pretty  groves. 
One  might  have  called  it  a  Canadian  or  New-Hampshire  vale."  The  road  passes 
several  lakelets  and  trout-streams,  and  gives  fine  views  of  the  ocean  on  the  1.,  being 
al-so  one  of  the  most  smooth  and  firmly  built  of  highways.  "  No  nation  makes  such 
roads  as  these,  in  a  land  bristling  with  rugged  difficulties,  that  has  not  wound  its 
way  up  to  the  summit  of  power  and  cultivation."  Tho  hills  along  the  coast  closely 
resemble  the  Cordillera  peaks ;  and  from  the  bald  summits  on  the  W.,  Trinity  Bay 
may  be  seen. 

The  mail-road  running  S.  from  St.  Jolm's  passes  Waterford  Bridge  and 
soon  approaches  Blackhead,  a  Catholic  village  near  an  iron-bound  shore 
whose  great  cliffs  have  been  worn  into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  crash  and 
attrition  of  tho  Atlantic  surges.  Near  this  place  is  Cape  Spear,  the  most 
easterly  point  of  North  America,  1,656  M.  from  Valentia  Bay,  in  Ireland. 
On  the  summit  of  the  cape,  264  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  a  red-and-white  striped 
tower  sustaining  a  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  2?  M. 


BAY  BULLS. 


Route  54.      197 


r.    "NothiPg 
the  pea  bi-ing 
[-bedded  daik 
lis  and  preci- 
jagged  cliffs, 
hite  eddies  or 
OF.  Jukes.) 
nd  and  finger, 
Is  of  u  pretty 
and  the  dwell- 
ts,  and  Hakes. 
4.  shore  of  the 
tic.  and  finely 
'  At  one  point, 
ind,  the  strata, 
hundred  yards 
ave  has  partly 
rnous  recesses 
1  the  surf  was 
p  the  low  tones 
lence  of  a  uiiu- 
iberations  were 

there  appeared 
h  gray  checked 
rhcre  they  have 
fresher  stone." 


Cape  Bace. 

sastward  on  the 
ally  undeviating 
'riday  mail-con- 
jwse,  or  by  the 

tty  Harbor,  10; 
La  Manche,  32 ; 
luafort,  48;  Fer- 

;lish  grayel-road, 
pringless  wagon, 
iving  from  the  in- 
bold  regions  that 
ith  meadows,  and 
of  pretty  groves. 
The  road  passes 
n  on  the  1. ,  being 
ation  makes  such 
tas  not  wound  its 
r  the  coast  closely 
e  W.,  Trinity  Bay 

ford  Bridge  and 
•on-bound  shore 
)y  the  crash  and 
Spear,  the  most 
Bay,  in  Ireland, 
nd-white  striped 


The  road  now  passes  between  "  woody  banks  ninning  through  an  un- 
dulating country  but  half  reclaimed  on  the  r.,  while  on  the  1.  the  slopes 
stretch  up  to  the  breezy  headlands,  beyond  which  there  is  notliing  but  sea 
and  cloud  from  this  to  Europe."  Petty  Harbor  is  4  M.  S.  AV.  of  Cape 
Spear  and  10  M.  from  St.  John's,  and  is  a  village  of  900  inhabitants,  with 
a  refinery  of  cod-liver  oil  and  long  lines  of  evergreen  fish-flakes.  Off  this 
point  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Tweed  was  wrecked  in  1814,  and  60  men  were 
•  drowned.    The  houses  of  Petty  Harbor  are  situated  in  a  narrow  glen  at 

the  foot  of  frowning  and  barren  ridges.  The  harbor  at  the  foot  of  this 
ravine  is  small  and  insecure.  The  dark  hills  to  the  "\V.  attain  a  height  of 
700  ft.  along  the  unbroken  shore  which  leads  S.  to  Bay  Bulls ;  and  at 
about  4  ^I.  from  Petty  Harbor  is  the  *  Spout,  a  deep  cavern  in  the  sea- 
ward cliffs,  in  whose  '.op  is  a  hole,  through  which,  at  high  tide  and  in  a 
heavy  sea,  the  water  shoots  up  every  half-minute  in  a  roaring  fountain 
^hich  is  seen  3  M.  off  at  sea.  The  road  now  approaches  lonclay  Hill  (810 
ft.  high),  the  chief  elevation  on  this  coast,  and  reaches  Bay  BuUs,  a  village 
of  700  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  outports,  and 
affords  a  refuge  to  vessels  that  are  unable,  on  account  of  storms  or  ice,  to 
make  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  Thei'e  are  several  farms  near  the  bay,  but 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  the  cod-fishery,  which  is  carried 
on  from  large  open  boats.  This  ancient  settlement  was  exposed  to  great 
vicissitudes  during  the  conflicts  between  the  French  and  the  English  for 
the  possession  of  Newfoundland,  and  was  totally  destroyed  by  Admiral 
Richery  (French)  in  1796.  Fine  sporting  is  found  in  this  vicinity,  all  along 
shore,  and  shooting-parties  leave  St.  John's  during  the  season  for  several 
days'  adventure  hereabouts. 

In  1696  the  French  frigates  Pelican,  Diamant,  Count  de  Toulouse,  Vendant^e, 
Philippe,  and  Harcourt  met  the  British  man-of-war  Sapphire  off  Capo  Spear,  and 
chased  it  into  Bay  Bulls.  A  naval  battle  of  several  hours'  duration  was  closed  bv 
the  complete  discomfiture  of  the  British,  who  set  fire  to  the  shattered  Sapphir'.  and 
abandoned  her.  The  French  sailors  boarded  her  immediately,  but  were  destroyed 
by  the  explosion  of  the  magazine. 

Witless  Bay  is  the  next  village,  and  has  nearly  1,000  inhabitants,  with  a 
large  and  prominent  Catholic  church.  Cod-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent  off  this  shore,  also  off  Mobile,  the  next  settlement  to  the  S.  Beyond 
the  rock-bound  hamlets  of  Toad  Cove,  La  Manche,  and  Brigus,  the  road 
reaches  Cape  Broyle. 

In  1628  Cape  Broyle  was  captured  by  Admiral  de  la  Rade,  with  three  French  war- 
Tcssels,  who  also  took  the  fishing-fleet  then  in  the  harbor.  But  Sir  George  Calvert 
sent  from  the  capital  of  Avalon  two  frigates  (one  of  which  carried  24  guns)  and  .sev- 
eral hundred  mea,  on  whose  approach  "  the  French  let  slip  their  cables,  and  made 
to  sea  as  fast  as  they  could."  Calvert's  men  retaliated  by  harrying  the  French 
stations  at  Trepa«sey,  where  they  captured  six  shins  of  Bayonne  and  St.  Jean 
de  Luz. 

Cape  Broyle  i   a  prosperous  fishing-settlement  on  Broyle  Harbor,  near 

the  mountainous  headland  of  Cape  Broyle  (552  ft.  high).    There  is  good 

salmon-fishing  on  the  river  which  runs  S.  E.  to  the  harbor  from  the  foot 

of  Hell  Hill. 


108      Route  54. 


FERRYLAND. 


'  y,T 


']      li 


.M 


Forryland  is  2  M.  beyond  the  Caplin-Cove  settlement,  and  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  district  of  Ferrj'land.  It  has  about  700  inliabitants,  and  is  well 
located  on  level  ground  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  several  prosperous  farms,  and  picturesque  scenery  surrounds 
the  harbor  on  all  sides.  To  the  S.  E.  is  Ferryland  Head,  on  which  is  a 
fixed  white  light,  200  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  16  M.  Off  this  point 
are  the  slender  spires  of  rock  called  the  Uare'a  Ears,  projecting  from  the 
sea  to  the  height  of  50  ft. 

In  1614  (1622)  Kinpc  James  I.  granted  the  great  peninsula  between  Trinity  and 
Plaoentia  Bays  to  Sir  George  Calvert,  then  Secretary  of  State.  The  grantee  named 
his  new  domain  Avalon,  in  honor  of  the  district  where  Christian  tradition  claims 
that  the  Gospel  was  first  preached  in  Britain  (Ihe:  present  Glastonbury).  It  was  de- 
eigned  to  found  here  a  Christian  color /,  with  the  broadest  principles  of  toleration 
and  charity.  Calvert  sent  out  a  considerable  company  of  settlers,  under  the  govern- 
ment of  Capt.  Wynne,  and  a  colony  was  planted  at  Ferryland.  The  reports  sent 
back  to  England  concerning  the  soil  and  productions  of  the  new  country  were  so 
favorable  that  Sir  George  Calvert  and  his  family  soon  joined  the  colonists.  Under 
his  administration  an  equitable  government  was  established,  fortifications  were 
erected,  and  other  improvements  instituted.  Lord  Baltimore  had  but  little  pleasure 
of  his  settlement  in  Avalon.  He  found  that  he  had  been  greatly  deceived  about  the 
climate  and  the  nature  of  the  soil.  The  Puritans  also  began  to  harass  him ;  and 
Erasmus  Stourton,  one  of  their  ministers,  not  only  preached  dissent  under  his  eyes 
at  Ferryland,  but  went  to  England  and  reported  to  the  Privy  Council  that  Balti- 
more's priests  said  mass  and  had  "  all  the  other  ceremonies  of  the  Church  of  Rome, 
in  the  ample  manner  as  't  is  used  in  Spain."  Finally,  after  trials  by  storm  and  by 
Echismatics,  Lord  Baltimore  died  (in  l(i32),  leaving  to  his  son  Cecil,  2d  Lord  Balti- 
more, the  honor  of  founding  Maryland,  on  the  grant  already  secured  from  the  king. 
In  that  more  favored  southern  clime  afterwards  arose  the  great  city  which  com- 
memorates and  honors  the  name  of  B.mtimore. 

In  1637  Sir  David  Kirkewasappointed  Count  Palatine  of  Newfoundland,  and  estab- 
lished himself  at  Ferryland.  He  hoisted  the  royal  standard  on  the  forts,  and  main- 
tained a  strong  (and  sometimes  harsh)  rule  over  the  island.  At  the  outbreak  of  the 
English  Revolution  (1642),  Kirke's  brothers  joined  King  Charles's  forces  and  fought 
bravely  through  the  war,  while  Sir  David  strengthened  his  Newfoundland  forts  and 
established  a  powerful  and  well-armed  fleet.  He  offered  the  King  a  safe  asylum  in 
his  domain  ;  and  the  fiery  Prince  Rupert,  with  the  royal  Channel  fleet,  was  sailing 
to  Newfoundland  to  join  Kirke's  forces,  when  he  was  headed  off  by  the  fleet  of  the 
Commonwealth,  under  Sir  George  Ayscue.  After  the  fall  of  the  Stuarts,  Sir  David 
was  carried  to  England  in  a  vessel  of  the  Republic  (in  1651),  to  be  tried  on  various 
charges;  but  he  bribed  Cromwell's  son  in-law,  and  was  released,  returning  to  Ferry- 
land, wliere  he  died  in  1656,  after  having  governed  the  island  for  over  20  years.  At 
a  later  day  this  town  became  a  port  of  some  importance,  and  was  the  scene  of  re- 
peated naval  attacks  during  the  French  wars.  In  1673  it  was  taken  and  plundered 
by  4  Dutch  frigates. 

In  1694  B'erryland  was  attacked  by  2  large  French  frigates,  carrying  90  guns, 
which  opened  a  furious  cannonade  on  the  town.  But  the  fViUiam  and  Mary,  16, 
was  lying  in  the  harbor,  with  9  merchant-ships,  and  their  crows  built  batteries  at 
the  harbor-mouth,  whence,  with  the  guns  of  the  privateer,  they  inflicted  such  dam- 
age on  the  enemy  that  they  withdrew,  after  a  5  hours'  cannonade,  having  lost 
about  90  men.  In  1762  the  powerful  French  fleet  of  Admiral  de  Ternay  was  driven 
off  by  a  battery  on  Bois  Island. 

Aquqfm^t  lies  S.  W.  of  Ferryland,  and  is  a  small  hamlet  situated  on  a 
long,  deep,  and  narrow  harbor  embosomed  in  lofty  hills.  The  next  settle- 
ment is  Fermeuse,  with  600  inhabitants  and  a  Catholic  church  and  convent. 
It  is  on  the  shore  of  Admiral's  Cove,  in  the  deep  and  secure  harbor  of 
Fermeuse,  and  the  people  are  engaged  in  the  cod  and  salmon  fisheries. 
Henewse  is  an  ancient  and  decadent  port  16  M.  S.  of  Ferryland,  situated  on 


CAPE  RACE. 


Route  54.      199 


ia  the  capi- 
and  is  well 

immediate 
y  surrounds 

which  is  a 
>ff  this  point 
ng  from  the 

Trinity  and 
rtintee  named 
[idition  claims 
y).    It  was  de- 

of  toleratiou 
Icr  the  govern- 
e  reports  sent 
(untry  were  so 
onists.    Under 
ifications  were 
;  little  pleasure 
lived  about  the 
rass  him ;  and 
under  his  eyes 
icil  that  Balti- 
lurch  of  Rome, 
y  storm  and  by 
^2d  Lord  Balti- 
from  the  king, 
ity  which  corn- 
land,  and  estab- 
orts,  and  main- 
outbreak  of  the 
irces  and  fought 
Llland  forts  and 
I,  safe  asylum  in 
eet,  was  sailing 
the  fleet  of  the 
uarts,  Sir  David 
Tied  on  various 
urnlng  to  i'erry- 
;r20  years.     At 
the  scene  of  re- 
t  and  plundered 

rrying  90  guns, 
and  Mary,  16, 
uilt  batteries  at 
licted  such  dam- 
ide,  having  lost 
irnay  was  driven 

situated  on  a 
he  next  settle- 
h  and  convent, 
ure  harbor  of 
Imon  fisheries, 
nd,  situated  on 


an  indifferent  harbor  which  lies  between  Burnt  Point  and  Renewse  Head. 
3-4  M.  inland  are  the  rugged  hummocks  called  the  Red  Hills,  whence 
the  eastern  hill  range  runs  30  M.  N.  across  Avalon  to  Holyrood. 

6-8  M.  from  Renewse  are  the  tall  and  shaggy  hills  called  the  ButterpotS, 
which  command  broad  views  over  Avalon,  and  from  Baj  Bulls  to  the  W.  shore  or 
Trepassey  Bay.  The  Butterpots  of  Holyrood  are  also  seen  from  this  point ;  and  Prof. 
Jukes  counted  80  lakes  in  sight  from  the  main  peak  (which  is  955  ft.  high). 

S.  of  this  point  extends  a  fatal  iron-bound  coast,  on  which  scores  of  vessels,  veiled 
in  impenetrable  fog  or  swept  inward  by  resistless  storms,  have  been  dashed  in  pieces. 
A  very  slight  error  in  reckoning  will  throw  vessels  bound  S.  of  Cape  Race  upon  this 
shore,  and  then,  if  the  Cape  Race  and  Ferry  land  lights  are  wrapped  in  the  dense 
black  fog  peculiar  to  these  waters,  the  chances  of  disaster  are  great.  The  erection 
of  a  fog-whistle  on  the  cape  has  greatly  lessened  the  perils  of  navigation  here.  The 
ocean  steamships  An^lo-Saxon^  Argo,  and  City  of  PJiiUulelphia  were  lost  on  Cape 
Race. 

Cape  Bace  is  the  S.  £.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  a  rugged  head- 
land of  black  slaty  rock  thrown  up  in  vertical  strata.  It  is  provided  with 
a  powerful  light,  180  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  19  M.  The  great 
polar  current  sweeps  in  close  by  the  cape  and  turns  around  it  to  the 
W.  N.  W.,  forming,  together  with  the  ordinary  tides  and  the  bay-currents, 
a  complexity  of  streams  that  causes  many  wrecks. 

Icebergs  are  to  be  seen  off  this  shore  at  almost  all  seasons,  and  the  dense  fogs  are 
often  illumined  by  the  peculiar  white  glare  which  precedes  them.  Field-ice  is  also 
common  here  during  the  spring  and  early  summer,  but  is  easily  avoided  by  the 
warning  of  the  "  ice  bliiik."  Throughout  the  summer  and  autumn  the  fog  broods 
over  this  shore  almost  incessantly,  and  vessels  are  navigated  by  casting  the  lead  and 
following  the  soundings  which  are  marked  out  with  such  precision  on  the  Admi- 
ralty charts.  6  M.  E.  of  Cape  Race  is  the  Ballard  Bank,  which  is  18  M.  long  and 
2  - 12  M.  wide,  with  a  depth  of  water  of  15  -  26  fathoms. 

Cape  Race  is  distant,  by  great-circle  sailing,  from  New  York,  1,010  M.  ;  Boston, 
820;  Portland,  779 ;  St.  John,  N.  B.,  715;  Halifax,  463;  Miramichl,  492;  Quebec, 
836;  Cape  Clear,  1,713 ;  Galway,  1,721;  Liverpool,  1,970. 

The  Orand  Banks  of  Newfoundland  are  about  50  M.  E.  of  Cape  Race. 
They  extend  for  4  degrees  N.  and  S.  and  5  degrees  E.  and  W.  (at  45"  N. 
latitude)  lunning  S.  to  a  point.  They  consist  of  vast  submerged  sand- 
banks, on  which  the  water  is  from  30  to  60  fathoms  deep,  and  are  strewn 
with  shells.  Here  are  found  innumerable  codfish,  generally  occupying 
the  shallower  waters  over  the  sandy  bottoms,  and  feeding  on  the  shoals  of 
smaller  fish  below.  They  pass  out  into  the  deeper  waters  late  in  Novem- 
ber, but  return  to  the  Banks  in  February,  and  fatten  rapidly.  Immense 
fleets  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  here,  and  it  is  estimated  that  over 
100,000  men  are  dependent  on  this  industry. 

Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  spring,  summer,  and  fall,  the  Grand  Banks  are 
covered  by  rarely  broken  fogs,  through  which  falls  an  almost  incessant  slow  rain. 
Sometimes  these  fogs  are  so  dense  that  objects  within  60  ft.  are  totally  invisible,  at 
which  times  the  fishing-vessels  at  anchor  are  liable  to  be  run  down  by  the  great 
Atlantic  steamers.  The  dangerous  proximity  of  icebergs  (which  drift  across  and 
ground  on  the  Banks)  is  indicated  by  the  sudden  and  intense  coldness  which  they 
send  through  even  a  midsummer  day,  by  the  peculiar  white  glare  in  the  air  about 
them,  and  by  the  roaring  of  the  breakers  on  their  sides. 

It  was  on  the  Grand  Banks,  not  far  from  Cape  Race,  that  the  first  battle  of  the 
Seven  Years'  War  was  fought.    June  8, 1756,  the  British  60-gun  frigates  Dunkirk 


r 


ifi^ 


I  Mi' 


I? 


'  I   » 


|;  ^ 


200     Route  55, 


THE  GRAND  BANKS. 


and  Defiance  were  cruising  about  in  a  dense  fog,  when  they  met  the  French  men-of* 
war  Akide.  and  Lys.  For  five  hours  the  battle  continued,  and  a  continual  can- 
nonade  was  kept  up  between  the  hostile  ships.  The  French  were  overmatched,  but 
fought  valiantly,  inflicting  heavy  losses  on  the  assailants  (the  Dunkirk  alone  lost  90 
men).  When  they  finally  surrendered,  the  Lys  waa  found  to  contain  $400,000  la 
specie  and  8  companies  of  infantry. 

The  vicinity  of  Cape  Race  was  for  some  time  the  cruising-p^round  of  the  U.  S. 
frigate  Constitution,  in  1812,  and  in  these  waters  she  captured  the  Ac/iona,  the  Ade- 
line, and  other  vessels. 

Near  the  edge  of  the  Grand  Bank  (in  lat.  41°  41'  N.,  long.  55°  18'  W.)  occurred 
the  famous  sea-fight  between  the  Constitution  and  the  Guerricre,  whose  result  filled 
the  United  States  with  rejoicing,  and  impaired  the  prestige  of  the  British  navy.  On 
the  afternoon  of  Aug.  19,  1812,  the  Constitution  sighted  the  Guerridre,  and  bore 
down  upon  her  with  double-shotted  batteries.  The  British  ship  was  somewhat  in- 
ferior in  force,  but  attacked  the  American  with  the  confidence  of  victory.  The  Con- 
stitution received  several  broadsides  in  silence,  but  when  within  half  pistol-shot  dis- 
charged her  tremendous  batteries,  and  followed  with  such  a  fire  of  deadly  precision 
that  the  Guerriire  was  soon  left  a  dismasted  and  shattered  wreck.  The  British  ship 
then  surrendered,  having  lost  101  men  in  the  action,  while  her  antagonist  lost  but 
14.    The  Guerricre  had  38  guns,  and  the  Constitution  had  44. 

Among  the  American  privateers  that  cruised  about  the  Grand  Banks  in  1812  - 14, 
none  was  more  successful  than  the  Mammoth,  of  Baltimore.  She  captured  the 
ships  Ann  and  Eliza,  Urania,  Anishy,  Dobson,  Sallust,  Uniza,  Sarah,  Sir  Home 
Popham,  Champion,  Mentor,  and  many  other  rich  prizes. 


t 


( 


"  Far  off  by  stormy  Labrador  — 

Far  oft'  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland, 
W  here  angry  seas  incessant  roar. 

And  I'ogpy  mists  their  wings  expand, 
The  fishing-schooners,  black  and  low, 
For  weary  mouths  soil  to  and  fro." 


;t. 


55.   St.  John's  to  Labrador.— The  Northern  Coast  of  New- 
foundland. 

The  mail-steamer  Leopard  leaves  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  every  alternate  Monday  during 
the  season  of  navigation,  and  visits  the  chief  outports  on  the  N.  coast  (so  called). 
The  fares  are  as  follows:  St.  John's  to  Old  Perlican  or  Bay  Verd,  $2,  —  steer- 
age, $1.50;  to  Trinity,  §4.40,  — steerage,  $2;  to  Bonavista,  $650,  —  steerage, 
$2.80;  to  Grcenspond,  $6,  — steerage,  $3;  to  Fogo,  .$6.50;  to  Twillingate,  $7; 
to  Exploits  Island,  $  7.50  ;  to  Tilt  Cove,  Little  Bay  Island,  or  Nipper's  Harbor,  $  8, 
—  steerage,  $4.50;  to  Battle  Harbor,  ^12.  At  Battle  Harbor  the  Leopard  meets 
the  Hercules,  the  Labrador  mail-stc;imer. 

The  fare  on  the  Labrador  steamer  is  ^  2  a  day,  which  includes  both  passage  and 
meals.  The  northern  boats  arc  powerful  and  seaworthy,  but  the  fare  at  their  tables 
is  necessarily  of  the  plainest  kind.  The  time  which  will  be  required  for  the  Labrador 
trip  is  nearly  four  weeks  (from  St.  John's  back  to  St.  John's  again).  The  cxpen.'^o 
is  about  $50.  The  journey  should  bo  begun  before  the  middle  of  July,  in  order 
to  avail  of  the  short  summer  in  these  high  latitudes.  It  would  be  prudent  for  gen- 
tlemen who  desire  to  make  this  tour  to  write  early  in  the  season  to  the  agents  of  tho 
steamship  lines,  to  assure  themselves  of  due  connections  and  to  learn  other  particu- 
lars. Mr.  J.  Taylor  Wood  is  the  agent  at  Halifax  for  the  steamer  from  that  port  to 
St.  John's;  and  Walter  Grieve  &  Co.,  St.  John's,  N,  F.,  are  the  agents  for  the 
Northern  Coastal  Line. 

Passing  out  tween  the  stern  and  frowning  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  the  steai  >r  soon  takes  a  northerly  course,  and  opens  tho  indenta- 
tion of  Loffie  Bay  on  the  W.  (see  page  196).  After  running  by  the  tall 
cliffs  of  Sugar  Loaf  and  Red  Head  (700  ft.  high),  Torbay  is  seen  opening 
to  the  W.,  within  which  is  the  village  of  the  same  name. 


'encli  men-of- 

>ntinual  can- 

[iiatched,  but 

alone  loft  90 

$400,000  in 

of  the  U.  S. 
onUf  the  Ade- 

W.)  occurred 
e  result  filled 
sh  navy.  On 
!re,  and  bore 
somewhat  in- 
y.  The  Con- 
istol-shot  dis- 
idly  precision 
e  British  ship 
)nist  lost  but 

I  in  1812 -14, 
captured  the 
/»,  Sir  Home 


t  of  New- 


[onday  during 
St  (so  called). 
,  $2,  — stcer- 
•0,  —  Hteerage, 
illingate,  $  7 ; 
i  Harbor,  $  8, 
'^eop'ard  meets 

1  pa.ssage  and 
at  their  tables 
f  the  Labrador 
The  expense 
July,  in  order 
udent  for  gen- 
;  agents  of  tho 
other  particu- 
i  that  port  to 
igents  for  the 


lai'bor  of  St. 
tho  indenta- 
;  by  the  tall 
een  opening 


T 


I 


TRINITY. 


Route  55.      201 


P 


% 


About  8  M.  beyond  Torbay,  the  Avhite  shore  of  Cape  St.  Francis  is  seen 
on  the  port  bow,  and,  if  the  water  is  rough,  tlio  great  breakers  may  bo 
seen  whitening  over  the  rocks  which  are  called  tho  Brandies.  Tho  course 
is  now  laid  across  the  mouth  of  Conception  Bay,  which  is  seen  extending 
to  the  S.  W.  for  30  M.  18  M.  from  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  about  40  M.  from 
St.  Jolm's,  tho  steamer  passes  between  Bay  Verd  Head  and  Split  Point, 
and  stops  off  Bay  Verd,  a  village  of  about  600  inhabitants,  situated  on  a 
broad  and  unsheltered  bight  of  the  sea.  Tho  fishing-grounds  in  this  •»  icin- 
ity  are  among  the  best  on  the  American  coast,  and  attract  largo  fleets  of 
boats  and  schooners.  The  attention  of  the  villagers  is  divided  between 
farming  and  fishing,  the  latter  industry  being  by  far  tho  most  lucrative. 
Roads  lead  out  from  Bay  Verd  S.  to  Carbonear  and  Harbor  Grace  (see 
Route  56),  and  N.  W.  to  the  settlements  on  Trinity  Bay.  Soon  after 
leaving  Bay  Verd,  the  steamer  passes  Baccalieu  Island,  a  high  and  ridgy 
land  3i  M.  long,  and  nearly  2  AI.  from  the  main.  On  its  N.  end  is  a  pow- 
erful flashing  light,  elevated  380  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  28  M. 

Although  Cabot  was  the  first  professional  discoverer  (if  tho  term  may  be  used)  to 
visit  and  explore  the  shores  of  Newfoundland,  there  is  no  doubt  that  these  waters 
had  long  been  the  resort  of  tho  fishing-fleets  of  the  Normans,  Bretons,  and  Basques. 
Lescarbot  claims  that  they  had  fished  off  these  shores  "for  many  centuries,"  and 
Cabot  applied  the  name  ''Baccalaos"  to  tho  country  because  "in  tho  seas  there- 
about he  found  so  great  multitude.s  of  certain  biggo  fishes,  much  like  unto  Tunnies 
(which  the  inhabitants  call  Baccalaos),  that  they  sometimes  stayed  his  shippes." 
Baccalaos  is  the  ancient  Basque  name  for  codfish,  and  its  extensive  use  by  the 
natives  in  place  of  their  own  word  Apegi^  meaning  the  same  tiling,  is  held  as  con- 
clusive proof  that  they  had  been  much  in  communication  with  Basque  fishermen 
before  the  arrival  of  Cabot.  Cabot  gave  this  name  to  the  continent  as  far  as  he 
explored  it,  but  in  the  map  of  1040  it  is  applied  only  to  the  islet  which  now  re- 
tains it. 

On  her  alternate  trips  the  vessel  rounds  in  about  Grates  Point,  and  stops 
at  Old  Perlican  (see  Route  57).  Otherwise,  it  runs  across  the  mouth  of 
Trinity  Bay  for  about  20  j\I.,  on  a  N.  W.  course,  and  enters  the  harbor  of 
Trinity,  115  M.  from  St.  John's.  The  entrance  is  bold  and  imposing,  and 
the  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  island,  affording  a  land-locked  anchor- 
age for  the  largest  fleets.  It  is  divided  into  two  arms  by  a  high  rocky 
peninsula  (380  ft.  high),  on  whose  S.  side  are  the  wharves  and  houses  of 
the  town.  Trinity  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  and 
the  capital  of  the  district  of  Trinity.  Considerable  farming  is  done  in  the 
coves  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Roads  lead  out  to  the  S.  shore  (see 
Route  57),  and  also  to  Salmon  Cove,  5  M  ;  English  Harbor,  7;  Ragged 
Harbor,  16;  and  Catalina,  20. 

On  leaving  Trinity  Harbor,  the  course  is  S.  E.  until  Green  Bay  Head 
and  the  Horse  Chops  are  passed,  when  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.,  and  runs  along 
within  sight  of  a  high  and  cliff'y  shore.  Beyond  the  Ragged  Isles  is  seen 
Green  Island,  where  there  is  a  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  15  M.,  around 
which  (through  rough  water  if  the  wind  is  E.)  the  vessel  passes,  threading 
a  labyrinth  of  shoals  and  rocks,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Catalina,  re- 
9* 


202      Route  55. 


BONAVISTA. 


•  I' 

•  i; 


II 


? 


!■: 


fci; 

I, 


mm   M 


markable  for  its  sudden  and  frequent  intermittent  tides.  The  tovn  of 
Catalina  lias  1,300  inliabitants,  with  2  churclies,  of  whicli  tliat  of  the  Epis- 
copalians is  a  fine  piece  of  architecture,  though  built  of  wood.  The  main 
partof  tho  settlement  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  consider- 
able maritime  trade.  The  adjacent  waters  abound  in  salmon,  and  deli- 
cious edible  whelks  are  found  on  the  rocks.  Besides  the  highway  to 
Trinity  (20  ^I.),  a  rugged  road  leads  N.  to  Bonavista  in  10  M.  Catalina 
was  visited  in  1534  by  Cartier,  who  named  it  St.  Catherine. 

On  leaving  Catalina  Harbor,  North  Head  is  passed,  and  after  running 
N.  E.  by  N.  3  M.  Flowers  Head  is  left  on  the  port  bow.  About  2  M.  be- 
yond, the  Bird  Islets  are  seen  on  the  1.,  near  which  is  the  fishing-settlement 
o{  Bird  Island  Cove  (670  inhabitants),  with  its  long  and  handsome  beach. 
A  short  distance  inland  is  seen  the  Burnt  Ridge,  a  line  of  dark  bleak  hills 
rising  to  a  height  of  500  ft.  The  Dollarman  Bank,  famous  for  codfish,  is 
now  crossed,  and  on  the  1.  is  seen  Cape  Largent  and  Spiller  Point,  off  which 
ai'O  the  pi'ecipitous  and  tower-like  *  Spiller  Jiocks,  surrounded  by  the  sea. 
The  steamer  now  passes  Cape  Bonavista,  on  which  is  a  red-and-whit© 
flashing-light,  150  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

The  re-discovery  of  Newfoundland  (after  the  Northmen's  voyages  5  centuries  be- 
fore) was  effected  in  June,  1497,  by  Cabot,  a  Venetian  in  the  service  of  Henry 
VII.  of  England,  sailing  in  the  ship  Matthew,  of  Bristol.  He  gave  the  name  of  Bona 
Vista  ("  Fair  View  "),  or  Prima  Vista  ("  First  View  "),  to  the  first  point  of  the  coast 
which  ho  saw,  and  that  name  has  since  been  attached  to  this  northerly  cape,  since 
it  is  believed  that  this  was  the  location  of  the  new-found  shore.  (The  reader  of  Bid- 
die's  *'  Memoirs  of  Sebastian  Cabot "  will,  however,  be  much  puzzled  to  know  what 
point,  if  any,  Cabot  actually  saw  on  these  coasts.)  The  rocks  and  shoals  to  the  N. 
arc  prolific  in  fish,  and  are  visited  by  great  flotillas  of  boats. 

After  rounding  the  light,  the  steamer  enters  Bonavista  Bay,  a  great 
bight  of  the  sea  extending  between  Capes  Bonavista  and  Freels,  a  dis- 
tance of  37  M.  About  4  M.  S.  W.  of  the  cape,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Bonavista,  an  ancient  marine  town  with  2,600  inhabitants  and  3 
churches.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  the  same  name,  and  is  also  a 
port  of  entry,  having  a  large  and  increasing  commerce.  The  harbor  is 
not  secure,  and  during  long  N.  W.  gales  the  sea  breaks  heavily  across  the 
entrance.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  fine  building  in  English  Gothic 
architecture,  but  the  houses  of  the  town  are  generally  mean  and  small. 
Considerable  farming  is  done  on  the  comparatively  fertile  lands  in  the 
vicinity,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  climate  is  much  more  genial  and  the 
air  more  clear  than  on  the  S.  shores  of  the  island.  The  town  is  146  M. 
from  St.  John's,  and  is  30  M.  by  road  from  Trinity  and  10  M.  from  Catalina. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  settlements  on  the  coast,  and  signalized  itself 
in  1696  by  beating  off"  the  French  fleet  which  had  captured  St.  John's  and 
ravaged  the  S.  coasts. 


BONA  VISTA  BAY. 


Roicie  55.      203 


he  toyrn  of 
of  the  Epis- 
The  main 
a  consider- 
n,  and  deli- 
highway  to 
I.    Catalina 

fter  running 
>ut  2  M.  be- 
g-settlement 
ome  beach. 

bleak  hills 
r  codfish,  is 
nt,  off  which 

by  the  sea. 
;d-and-whito 


centuries  be- 
vice  of  Henry 

name  of  Bona 
nt  of  the  coast 
rly  cape,  since 
I  reader  of  Bid- 
l  to  know  what 
hoals  to  the  N. 


Ray,  a  great 
Creels,  a  dis- 
iters  the  har- 
3itants  and  3 
and  is  also  a 
he  harbor  is 
ily  across  the 
iglish  Gothic 
n  and  small, 
lands  in  the 
enial  and  the 
•wn  is  146  M. 
rom  Catalina. 
nalized  itself 
t.  John's  and 


^ 


Bonansia  Bay. 

A  road  leads  S.  W.  from  Bonarista  to  Birchy  Cove,  9  M. ;  Amherst  Cove,  12; 
King's  Cove,  20  ;  Keels  Cove,  26  ;  Tickle  Cove,  33 ;  Open  Hole,  3(3 ;  Plato  Cove,  38  ; 
and  Indian  Arm,  43. 

King^s  Cove  is  a  village  of  Labrador  fishermen,  with  550  inhabitants  and  2 
churches.  It  is  on  a  narrow  liarbor  between  the  lofty  clifTs  of  the  coast  range, 
through  whose  passes  a  road  runs  S.  to  Trinity  in  13  M.  3  M.  from  King's  Cove  ia 
Broart  Cove  village,  under  the  shadow  of  the  peak  of  Southern  Ilen'l.  Keels  is  6 
M.  from  King's  Cove,  and  do<!S  a  considerable  lumber  business.  Thence  the  road 
descends  through  Tickle  Cove  (2  M.  from  the  picturesque  lied  Cliff  Island)  to  the 
three  villages  on  the  S.,  each  of  which  has  2-300  inhabitants.  To  the  W.  are  the 
deep  estuaries  of  Sweet  Harbor,  Clode  Sound  (20  M.  long),  and  Newman  Sound  (11 
M.  long),  penetrating  the  hill-country  and  exhibiting  a  succession  of  views  of  ro- 
mantic scenery  and  total  desolation.  Boats  may  be  taken  from  Open  Hole  to  Bar- 
row Harbor,  a  fishing  settlement  10  M.  N.  W.,  at  the  mouth  of  Newman  Sound,  and 
to  Salvage,  16  M.  distant,  a  village  of  500  inhabitants.  6  M.  N.  \V.,  beyond  the  Bay 
of  Fair  and  False,  is  Bloody  Bay,  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet  with  picturesque  forest 
scenery,  extending  for  several  miles  among  the  hills.  The  name  was  given  on  ac- 
count of  the  frequent  conflicts  which  here  ensued  between  the  Red  Indians  and  the 
fishermen.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  Terra  Nova  River,  descending  from  the 
Terra  Nova  Lake,  which  is  15  M.  distant,  and  is  12  M.  long. 

The  N.  shore  of  Bonavista  Bay  is  visited  most  easily  from  the  port  of  Greens- 
pond.  The  communication  is  exclusively  by  boats,  which  may  be  engaged  at  the 
village.  Nearly  all  the  islands  in  the  vicinity  and  for  10  M.  to  the  S.  W.  and  S.  are 
occupied  by  small  communities  of  hardy  fishermen ,  and  the  shores  of  the  main- 
land are  indented  with  deep  and  narrow  bays  and  sounds.  To  the  N.  are  Pool's 
Island,  3  M. ;  Pincher's  Island,  9  ;  Cobbler's  Island,  10 ;  and  Middle  Bill  Cove  (near 
Cape  Freels),  15.  To  the  S.  and  W.  are  the  Fair  Island,  7  M. ;  Deer  Island,  11 ; 
Cottel's  Island  (three  settlements),  15  ;  the  Goo.seberry  Isles,  12;  and  Hare  Bay,  23. 
The  last-named  place  is  at  the  entrance  of  Freshtoater  Bay,  which  runs  in  for  about 
15  M.,  with  deep  water  and  bold  shores.  The  great  northern  mail-road  is  being 
built  along  the  head  of  this  bay  ;  a  short  distance  from  which  (by  the  river)  are  the 
Gambo  Ponds,  large  lakes  in  the  desolate  interior,  23  M.  long,  abounding  in  fish. 
One  of  the  best  saUnon-fisberies  on  the  island  is  at  the  head  of  Indian  Bay^  12  M. 
W.  of  Greenspond. 


On  leaving  Bonavista,  the  steamer  runs  N.  by  W.  across  Bonavista  Bay, 
passing  the  Gooseberry  Isles  on  the  port  bow.  After  over  3  hours'  run, 
the  N.  shore  is  approached,  and  the  harbor  of  Greenspond  is  entered. 
This  town  contains  over  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  an  island 
1  M.  square,  so  rugged  that  soil  for  house-gardens  had  to  be  brought  from 
the  mainland.  A  large  business  is  done  here  in  the  fisheries  and  the  seal- 
trade,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  connected  with  either  the  one  or  the 
other.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  difllcult,  and  is  marked  by  a  fixed 
red  light,  visible  for  12  M. 

The  steamer  now  runs  N.  E.  and  N.  for  about  18  M.  to  Cape  Freels, 
passing  great  numbers  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men, while  others  are  the  resort  of  myriads  of  sea-birds,  who  are  seen 
hovering  over  the  rocks  in  great  flocks.  Soon  after  passing  the  arid  high- 
lands of  Cape  Freels,  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  W.  across  the  opening  of 
Sir  Charles  Hamilton's  Sound,  a  broad  and  deep  arm  of  the  sea  which  is 
studded  with  many  islands.  Leaving  the  Cape  Ridge  and  Windmill  Hill 
astern,  the  Penguin  Islands  are  seen,  15^  M.  from  Cape  Freels;  and  6  M. 
farther  N.  W.  the  Wadham  Isles  are  passed,  whore,  on  a  lonely  and  surf- 


204     Ji(yute  55. 


FOGO. 


beaten  rock,  Is  the  OfTer  Wadham  lishthouso,  a  circular  brick  tower  100 
ft.  high,  exhibiting  a  fixed  white  liglit,  which  is  visible  for  12  M.  To  the 
N.  K.,  and  well  out  at  sea,  is  Funk  Island,  near  which  are  good  sealiiig- 
grounds. 

Funk  Island  was  visited  by  Cartipr  in  1534,  who  named  it  (and  the  adjacent  rocks) 
Les  Jslfs  (irn  Oyseaux.  Here  he  saw  a  white  bear  "  as  largo  as  a  cow,"'  which  had 
Bwum  14  leagues  from  Newfouudlond.  "  Ho  then  coasted  along  all  the  northern 
part  of  that  great  island,  and  he  says  that  you  meet  nowhere  else  Letter  ports  or  a 
more  wretched  country  ;  on  every  fide  it  is  nothing  but  fVightful  rocks,  sterile  lands 
covered  with  a  scanty  moss;  no  trees,  but  only  some  bushes  half  dried  up;  that 
nevertheless  he  found  men  there  well  made,  who  wore  their  hair  tied  on  the  top  of 
the  head."  The  isles  were  again  visited  by  Cartler  In  July,  1535,  in  the  ship  Grand 
Hertnine.  "  If  the  soylc  were  as  good  as  the  hnrboroughes  are,  it  were  n  'at  com- 
modltle;  but  It  Is  not  to  be  called  the  new  found  land,  but  rather  stone  'iruggcs 

and  a  place  fit  for  wildo  boastes In  short,  I  believe  this  was  the  lotted 

to  Calne."  Such  was  the  unfavorable  description  given  by  Jaques  Caiuer  of  the 
land  between  Cape  IJonavlsta  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

It  Is  supposed  that  either  the  Il.iccalieu  or  the  Penguin  Islands  were  the  "  Feather 
Islands,'-  which  the  Annates  SkaUioUini  and  Lhgmann^s  state  were  discovered  by 
the  Xorthmcn  In  the  year  1285.  The  Saga  of  Eric  the  Red  tells  that  Lelf,  son  of  the 
Earl  of  Norway,  visited  the  Labrador  and  Newfoundland  shores  In  994.  "Then 
sailed  they  to  the  land,  and  cast  anchor,  and  put  off  boats,  and  went  ashore,  and 
saw  there  no  grass.  Great  Icebergs  were  over  all  up  the  country,  but  like  a  plain  of 
flat  stones  was  all  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  and  it  appeared  to  them  that  this 
land  had  no  good  qualities."'  Lclf  named  this  country  Ilelluland  (from  Hella,a  flat 
stone),  distinguishing  Labrador  as  Hellulanit  it  Mikla,  In  1288  King  Eric  sent  the 
mariner  Rolf  to  Iceland  to  call  out  men  for  a  voyage  to  these  shores ;  and  the  name 
Nyja  Lanrt,  or  Nyfa  Fiim/u  Land,  was  then  applied  to  the  great  Island  to  the  S., 
and  was  probably  adopted  by  the  English  (In  the  Anglicized  form  of  Newfoundland) 
during  the  commercial  iutercourae  between  England  and  Iceland  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury. 

9i  M.  N.  W.  by  N.,  Cape  Fogo  is  approached,  and  is  a  bold  promontory 
214  ft.  high,  terminating  Fogo  Island  on  the  S.  E.  The  course  continues 
to  the  N.  W.  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  island,  and  at  6^  M.  from  Cape 
Fogo,  Round  Head  is  passed,  and  the  steamer  assumes  a  course  more  to 
the  westward.  6-8  M.  from  Round  Head  she  enters  the  harbor  of  Fogo, 
a  port  of  entry  and  post-town  216  M.  from  St.  John's.  The  population  is 
740,  with  2  churches;  and  the  town  is  of  great  local  importance,  being  the 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  fishing-stations  of  the  N.  shore.  (See  also  Route 
58  for  this  and  other  ports  in  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.) 

"The  western  headlands  of  Fogo  are  exceedingly  attractive,  lofty,  finely  broken, 

of  a  red  and  purplish  brown,  tinted  here  and  there  with  pale  green As  we  pass 

the  bold  prominences  and  deep,  narrow  bays  or  fiords,  they  are  continually  changing 
and  surprising  us  with  a  new  scenery.  And  now  the  great  sea-wall,  on  our  right, 
opens  and  discloses  the  harbor  and  village  of  Fogo,  the  chief  place  of  the  Island, 
gleaming  In  the  setting  sun  as  If  there  were  flames  shining  through  the  windows. 
Looking  ^o  the  left,  all  the  western  region  Is  one  fine  ^gean,  a  sea  filled  with  a  mul- 
titude of  isles,  of  manifold  forms  and  sizes,  and  of  every  height,  from  mountain  pyra- 
mids and  crested  ridges  down  to  rounded  knolls  and  tables,  rocky  ruins  split  and 
shattered,  giant  slabs  sliding  edgewise  Into  the  deep,  columns  and  grotesque  masses 
ruflied  with  curling  surf,  —  the  Cyclades  of  the  west.  I  climb  the  shrouds,  and  be- 
hold fields  and  lanes  of  water,  an  endless  and  beautiful  network,  a  little  Switzerland 
with  her  vales  and  gorges  filled  with  the  purple  sea."    (Noble.) 

In  passing  out  of  Fogo  Harbor,  the  bold  bluft'  of  Fogo  Head  (345  ft.  high) 
is  seen  on  the  1.,  back  of  "which  is  Brimstone  Head.    The  vessel  steams 


" 


^ 


*v 


TWILLINGATE. 


lioute  55.      205 


tower  100 
VI.  To  tho 
od  sealiii;^. 


accnt  rock«) 
which  had 
he  northern 
r  ports  or  a 
sterile  Innils 
iecl  up ;  that 
I  tiic  top  of 
'.  ship  Grand 
p  -at  coni- 
iruggcs 
'lotted 
biiuer  of  the 

he  "Feather 
iscovered  by 
if,  8on  of  the 
[)94.  "  Then 
ashore,  and 
kc  a  plain  of 
?m  that  this 
1  Helta, a  flat 
Sric  sent  the 
nd  the  name 
id  to  the  S., 
wfoimdland) 
;hc  15th  cen- 


promontory 
e  continues 

from  Cape 
rso  more  to 
or  of  Fogo, 
:>pulation  is 
e,  being  the 

also  Route 


inely  broken, 
.  .  As  wo  pass 
ally  changing 
)n  our  right, 
)f  the  island, 
the  windows, 
d  with  a  mul- 
)untain  pyra- 
lins  split  and 
esque  masses 
)ud8,  and  be- 
c  Switzerland 


345  ft.  high) 
jssel  steams 


I 


¥^ 


in  to  the  W.,  up  tho  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  soon  passing  Fogo  Head,  and 
opening  tho  Ciiange  Ishmd  Tickles  on  tho  S.  Change  Island  is  tlien  seen 
on  the  1.,  and  tho  course  is  laid  across  to  the  lofty  and  arid  hills  of  Bacca- 
lieu  Island.  At  22  M.  from  Fogo  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  of  Twil- 
lingate  (tho  Anglicized  form  of  Toulinguct,  tho  ancient  French  namo  of 
the  port).  The  town  of  Twillingate  is  the  capital  of  tho  district  of  Twil- 
lingate  and  Fogo,  tho  most  northerly  political  and  legal  division  of  New- 
foundland, and  has  a  population  of  2,790,  with  3  churches.  It  is  situated 
on  two  islands,  and  the  sections  are  connected  by  a  bridge.  Farming  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  tlie  vicinity,  but  with  varying  suc- 
cess, owing  to  tho  sliort  and  uncertaif  -ummers.  The  houses  in  tho  town 
are  (as  usually  in  the  coast  settlements)  very  inferior  in  appearance, 
snugness  and  warmth  being  the  chief  objects  sought  after  in  their  archi- 
tecture. 

The  finest  breed  of  Newfoundland  dogs  were  formerly  found  about  the  Twillingate 
Isle!",  and  were  generally  distinguished  by  their  deep  black  color,  with  a  white  cross 
on  the  breast.  They  were  smaller  than  tho  so-called  Newfoundland  dogs  of  America 
and  Britain;  were  almost  amphibious  ;  and  lived  on  fish,  salted,  fresh,  or  decayed. 
Like  the  great  mahogany-colored  dogs  of  Labrador,  these  animals  were  distinguished 
for  rare  intelligence  and  unbounded  affection  (especially  for  children) ;  and  were 
exempt  from  hydrophobia.  A  Newfoundland  dog  of  pure  blood  is  now  worth  from 
$  75  to  « 100. 

The  steamer  passes  out  of  Twillingate  Harbor  and  runs  by  Gull  Island. 
The  course  is  to  the  S.  \V.,  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  Black  Islets,  and 
the  N.  promontory  of  the  great  New  World  Island.  14  M.  from  Twillingate 
she  reaches  the  post-town  of  Exploits  Island,  a  place  of  530  inhabitants, 
with  a  large  fleet  of  fishing-boats.    (See  also  Route  58.) 

From  Exploits  Island  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  is  crossed,  and  the  liarbor 
of  Tilt  Cove  is  entered.  This  village  has  770  inhabitants,  and  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  border  of  a  picturesque  lake.  The  vicinity  is  famous  for 
its  copper-mines,  which  were  discovered  in  1857  and  opened  in  1865.  Be- 
tween 1865  and  1870,  45,000  tons  of  ore,  valued  at  $1,180,810,  were 
extracted  and  shipped  away.  It  is  found  in  pockets  or  bunches  3  -  4  ft. 
thick,  scattered  through  the  heart  of  the  hills,  and  is  secured  by  level  lun- 
nels  several  thousand  feet  long,  connected  with  three  perpendicular  main 
shafts,  216  ft.  deep.  There  is  also  a  valuable  nickel-mine  here,  withalode 
10  inches  thick,  worked  by  costly  machinery,  and  producing  ore  worth 
$  332  a  ton.  A  superior  quality  of  marble  is  found  in  the  vicinity,  but  is 
too  far  from  a  market  to  make  it  worth  while  to  quarry.  The  male  inhab- 
itants of  Tilt  Cove  are  all  miners. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  at  Nippcr^s  Harbor,  a  small  fishing-village 
10  M.  S.  W.  of  Tilt  Cove.  The  harbor  is  tlie  best  on  the  N.  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  and  lies  between  the  Nipper's  Isles  and  the  mainland. 
On  alternate  trips  the  mail-steamer  calls  also  at  Little  Bay  Island^  6  -  8  M. 
S.  of  Nipper's  harbor. 


206     Jioute  56. 


CONCEPTION  BAY. 


Tilt  Cove  was  the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Coast  Postal  Route  until  the  estab. 
lishincnt  of  the  niail-servico  on  the  Labrador  coast,  and  it  is  not  probable  that  the 
steamers  will  go  N.  of  that  point  if  the  liabrador  line  ia  discontinued.  It  is  but  a 
ehort  distance  from  Tilt  Cove  to  the  Frencli  Sliure  (see  lioute  Gl). 

In  running  from  Tilt  Cove  to  the  Labrador,  the  steamer  first  passes  out 
around  Cape  St.  John,  and  tlien  talces  a  course  almost  due  N.,  and  far  out 
from  the  land.  Belle  Isle,  Quirpon,  and  the  other  points  which  may  be 
distantly  visible  from  the  ship,  are  described  in  Route  61,  adfnem. 

At  Battle  Harbor  (see  Route  62)  the  new  route  of  the  Northern  Coastal 
steamer  ends,  and  the  freight,  mails,  and  passengers  bound  for  other  ports 
are  transferred  to  another  vessel. 

The  Labrador  Coast,  see  Routes  C2  and  63. 


h\  i 


56.  St  John's  to  Conception  Bay. 

Mail-stages  leave  St.  John's  every  morning  for  Portugal  Cove,  distant  OJ  M.  At 
this  point  tiie  traveller  meets  the  steamer  Lizzie,  whose  route  was  as  follows,  during 
the  navigable  season  of  1874  :  Tuesday,  leaves  Harbor  Grace  for  Ciiri.^near,  Portu- 
gal Cove,  and  Bay  Roberts ;  Wednesday,  leaves  Bay  Roberts  for  Bngus,  Portugal 
Cove,  Carbonear,  and  Harbor  Grace  ;  Thur^df-y,  leaves  Harbor  Grace  for  Carbonear, 
Portugal  Cove,  and  Brigus ;  Friday,  leaves  Brigus  for  Portugal  Cove  and  Harbor 
Grace ;  Saturday,  leaves  Harbor  Grace  for  Portugal  Cove,  Brigus,  Carbonear,  and 
Harbor  Grace. 

Fares.  —  Portugal  Cove  to  Brigus,  18  M.,  fare  $1.40  ;  to  Carbonear,  20  M.  ;  to 
Bay  Roberts,  20  M. ;  to  Harbor  Grace,  20  M.,  fare,  igL-OO. 

There  is  also  a  road  extending  around  Conception  Bay.  It  is  20  M.  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail,  by  way  of  Portugal  Cove,  passing  Beachy,  Broad,  and  Horse 
Coves.  The  more  direct  route  leads  directly  across  the  N.  purt  of  Avalon  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail.  Tlie  chief  villages  and  the  distances  on  tliis  road  are  as  follows  : 
St.  John's  to  Topsail,  12  M. ;  Killigrews,  18;  Ilolyrood,  28;  Chapel's  Cove,  33; 
Harbor  Main,  34^  ;  Salmon  Cove,  37 ;  Colliers,  40 ;  Brigus,  1(5 ;  Port  do  Grave,  61 ; 
Spaniard's  Bay,  66;  Harbor  Grace,  63;  Carbonear,  67f ;  Salmon  Cove,  72;  Spout 
Cove.  76i ;  Western  Bay,  82;  Northern  Bay,  87 1  Island  Cove,  93i;  CapUu  Cove, 
97  ;  Bay  Verd,  105. 

The  stage-road,  after  leaving  St.  John's,  traverses  a  singular  farming 
country  for  several  miles,  and  then  enters  a  rugged  region  of  liills.  Portu- 
gal Cove  is  soon  reached,  and  is  picturesquely  jlcuated  on  the  ledges  near 
the  foot  of  a  range  of  highlands.  It  contains  ov^r  700  inliabitants,  with 
2  churches,  and  has  a  few  small  farms  adjacent  (see  page  196). 

Caspar  Cortereal  explored  this  coast  in  the  year  1600,  and  named  Conception 
Bay.  He  carried  home  such  a  favorable  account  that  a  Portuguese  colony  was  es- 
tablished at  the  Cove,  and  60  ships  wer^  sent  out  to  the  fisheries.  Ir  1578,  400  sail 
of  vessels  were  seen  in  the  bay  at  one  time,  prosecuting  the  fisheries  under  all  flags. 
The  colony  waa  broken  up  by  the  English  lleet  under  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  also 
drove  tlie  French  and  Portuguese  fishermen  from  the  coast. 

Belle  Isle  lies  off  shore  3  M.  from  the  Cove,  whence  it  may  be  visited  by  ferry- 
boats (also  from  Topsail).  This  interesting  island  is  9  M.  long  and  3  M.  wide,  and 
is  traversed  by  a  line  of  bold  hills.  It  is  famous  for  the  richne.«8  of  its  deep  black 
Boil,  and  produces  wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  and  hay,  with  the  best  of  butter.  The 
lower  Silurian  geological  fornution  is  here  finely  displayed  in  long  parallel  strata, 
amid  which  iron  ore  is  found.  The  cliffs  which  ft-ont  on  the  shore  are  very  bold, 
and  sometimes  overhang  the  water  or  else  are  cut  into  strange  and  fantastic  shapes 
by  the  action  of  the  sea.  Two  or  three  brilliant  little  waterfalls  are  seen  leaping 
from  the  upper  levfls.  Belle  Isle  has  600  inhabitants,  located  in  two  villages.  Lance 
Cove,  at  the  W.  end,  and  the  Beach,  on  the  S. 


HARBOR  GRACE. 


Route  56.      207 


until  the  estab* 
sbablo  tliat  thu 
td.    It  is  but  a 


rst  passes  out 
^.,  and  far  out 
kvhich  may  be 
ijinem. 
rtliern  Coastal 
for  other  ports 


istantOiM.  At 
9  follows,  durinp 

ri."uear,  Portu- 
Bngus,  Portugal 
e  for  Carbonear, 
ovc  atid  Harbor 

Carbonear,  and 

onear,  20  M. ;  to 

1}  20  M.  from  St. 
road,  and  Ilorso 
Avalon  from  St. 
id  are  a8  follows  : 
ajwrs  Cove,  33 ; 
)rt  de  Grave,  61 ; 
Cove,  72 ;  Spout 
li;  Caplin  Cove, 


igular  farming 
if  hills.  Portu- 
the  ledges  near 
liabitants,  with 
95). 

imed  Conception 
EC  colony  was  es- 

Ir  1578,  400  sail 
!S  under  all  flags. 

Drake,  who  also 

!  visited  by  ferry- 
id  3  M.  wide,  and 
of  its  deep  black 
of  butter.  Tlie 
^  parallel  strata, 
ire  are  very  bold, 
I  fantastic  shapes 
arc  seen  leaping 
CO  villages,  Lance 


I 


I 


The  steamer  runs  out  to  the  S.  W.  between  Belle  Isle  and  the  bold 
heights  about  Portugal  Cove  and  Broad  Cove,  and  passes  up  Conception 
Bay  for  18  M.,  with  the  lofty  Blue  Hills  on  the  S.  It  then  enters  the  nar- 
row harbor  of  Erigus  {Sullivan's  Hotel),  a  port  of  entry  and  the  capital 
of  the  district  of  Brigus.  It  has  2,000  inhabitants,  with  Wesleyan,  Roman, 
and  Anglican  churches,  and  a  convent  of  the  Order  of  Mercy.  The  town 
is  built  on  the  shores  of  a  small  lake  between  two  rugged  hills,  and  pre- 
sents a  picturesque  appearance.  It  has  over  800  boats  engaged  in  the 
cod-fishery,  and  about  30  larger  vessels  in  trading  and  fishing.  There  are 
a  few  farms  in  the  vicinity,  producing  fair  crops  in  return  for  great 
labor.  The  best  of  these  are  on  the  bright  meadows  near  Clark's  Beach, 
4  M.  from  the  town;  and  several  prosperous  villages  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  Near  the  town  is  the  singular  double  peak  called  the  Twins, 
and  a  short  distance  S.  W.  is  the  sharp  and  conical  Thumb  Peak  (598  ft. 
high). 

The  steamer  passes  out  from  the  rock-bound  harbor  and  runs  N.  by  the 
bold  hill  of  Brigus  Lookout  (400  ft.  high).  Beyond  Burnt  Head,  Bay  de 
Grave  is  seen  opening  on  the  1.,  with  several  hamlets,  aggregating  2,600  in- 
habitants. Cupids  and  Bareneed  are  the  chief  of  these  villages,  the  latter 
being  on  the  narrow  neck  of  land  between  Bay  de  Grave  and  Bay  Roberts, 
2i  M.  from  Blow-me-down  Head.  Green  Point  is  now  rounded,  and  the 
course  is  laid  S.  W,  up  Bay  Roberts,  passing  Coldeast  Point  on  the  port 
bow  and  stopping  at  the  village  of  Bay  Eobeits  {Moore's  Ilotd).  This 
place  consists  of  one  long  street,  with  2  churches  and  sevc;  al  wharves, 
and  has  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  spend  the  summer  on  the  Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing  out  from  Bay  Roberts,  Mad  Point  is  soon  left  abeam,  and  Span- 
iard's Bay  is  seen  ci  the  1.,  entering  the  land  for  3^  M.,  and  dotted  with 
fishing-establishments.  The  bay  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  high  hills, 
on  wliose  promontories  are  two  or  three  chapels.  The  hamlet  and  church 
of  Bryant's  Cove  are  next  seen,  in  a  narrow  glen  at  the  base  of  the  hills, 
and  the  steamer  passes  on  around  the  dangerous  and  surf-beaten  Harbor- 
Grace  Islands  (off  Feather  Point),  on  one  of  which  is  a  revolving  white- 
and-red  flash  light,  151  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  18  M. 

Harbor  Grace  (two  inferior  inns)  is  the  second  city  of  Newfoundland, 
and  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Harbor  Grace.  It  has  6,770  inhab- 
itants, with  several  churches,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  fire  and  police 
departments.  The  town  is  built  on  level  land,  near  the  shelter  of  the 
Point  of  Beach,  with  its  wharves  well  protected  by  a  long  sand-strip. 
The  bay  is  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  decreasing  from  li  M.  in  width  to  .J 
M.,  and  is  insecure  except  in  the  sheltered  place  before  the  city.  The 
trade  of  this  port  is  very  large,  and  about  200  ships  enter  the  harbor 
yearly.  There  is  a  stone  court-liouse  and  a  strong  prison,  and  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Presentation  is  on  the  Carbonear  road.    The  Roman  Catliolic 


fT 


^1    'I 


■H 


208      Jtoute  57. 


CARBONEAR. 


cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in  the  city,  and  its  high  and  symmetrical 
dome  is  a  landmark  for  vessels  entering  the  port.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  profusely  ornamented,  having  been  recently  enlarged  and 
newly  adorned.  Most  of  the  houses  in  the  city  are  mean  and  unprepos- 
sessing, being  rudely  constructed  of  wood,  and  but  little  improved  by 
painting. 

A  rugged  road  runs  N.  W.  15  M.  across  the  peninsula  to  Heart'g  Content 
(see  Route  57).  A  road  to  the  N.  reaches  (in  1^  M.)  the  farming  village  of  Mosf/uito 
Cove,  snugly  embosomed  in  a  pretty  glen  near  the  cultivated  meadows.  About  the 
year  1610  a  colony  was  planted  here  by  the  agents  of  tliat  English  company  in  which 
were  Sir  Francis  Bacon,  the  Earl  of  iSouthauipton,  and  other  knights  and  nobles. 
King  James  I.  granted  to  this  company  all  the  coast  between  Capes  Bonavista  aud 
St.  Mary,  but  their  enterprise  brought  uo  pecuniary  returns. 

Carbonear  is  1^  M.  by  road  from  Mosquito  Cove  (3  M.  from  Harbor 
Grace),  and  is  reached  by  the  steamer  after  passing  Old  Sow  Point  and 
rounding  Carbonear  Island.  This  town  has  2,000  inhabitants,  with  3 
churches,  and  Wesleyan  and  Catholic  schools.  Several  wharves  are  built 
out  to  furnish  winter-quarters  for  the  vessels  and  to  accommodate  the 
large  fish-trade  of  the  place.  It  is  21  M.  by  boat  to  Portugal  Cove,  across 
Conception  Bay.  This  town  was  settled  by  the  French  early  in  the  17th 
century,  under  the  name  of  Carboniere,  but  was  soon  occupied  by  the 
British.  In  1696  it  was  one  of  the  two  Newfoundland  towns  that  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  English,  all  the  rest  having  been  captured  by 
Iberville's  French  fleet.  Other  marauding  French  squadrons  were  beaten 
off  by  the  men  of  Carbonear  in  1705  -  6,  though  the  adjacent  coast  was 
devastated ;  and  in  1762  Carbonear  Island  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by 
the  citizens. 

The  mail-road  runs  N.  from  Carbonear  to  Bay  Verd,  passing  the  villages  of  Cro- 
ker's  Cove,  1  M. ;  Freshwater,  2  ;  Salmon  Cove,  5  ;  Perry's  Cove,  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
15;  Western  Bay,  17;  Northern  Bay,  20 ;  Job's  Cove,  25;  Island  Cove,  27;  Low 
Point,  33  ;  Bay  Verd,  38.  Tliere  is  no  harbor  along  this  shore,  the  "  coves  "  being 
mere  open  bights,  swept  by  sea-winds  and  aflbrdiug  insecure  anchorage.  The  in- 
habitants are  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  have  made  some  attempts  at  farming,  in 
defiance  of  the  early  aud  biting  frosts  of  this  high  latitude.  Salmon  Cove  is  near 
the  black  and  frowning  cliffs  of  ti^almon  Cove  Head,  and  is  famous  for  its  great  num- 
bers of  salmon.  Near  Ochre  Pit  Cove  are  beds  of  a  reddish  clay  wliich  is  u?ed  for 
paint,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  ancient  Bcecthic  tribes  obtained  their  name  of 
"  lied  Indians  "  from  their  custom  of  staiuiug  themselves  with  this  clay. 

Hay  Verd,  see  page  201. 

57.   Trinity  Bay. 

This  district  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  (see  Route  55) 
to  Bay  Verd,  Old  Perlican,  or  Trinity  ;  or  by  passing  from  St.  John's  to  Harbor 
Grace  by  Route  5li,  and  thence  by  the  road  to  Heart's  Content  (15  M.).  The  latter 
Tillage  is  about  80  M.  from  St.  John's  by  the  road  around  Conception  Bay. 

Heart's  Content  is  situated  on  a  fine  harbor  about  half-way  up  Trinity 
Bay,  and  has  880  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  Labrador 
fisheries  or  in  shipbuilding.  Tlie  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  striking, 
partaking  rf  the  boldness  and  startling  contrast  which  seems  peculiar  to 
this  sea-girt  Province.     Just  back  of  the  village  is  a  small  lake,  over 


id  symmetrical 
interior  of  the 
yr  enlarged  and 
and  unprepos- 
le  improved  by 

>art'8  Content 

illage  of  Mosquito 
duws.  About  the 
company  in  which 
lights  and  nobU'S. 
ipes  Bonavista  aud 

M.  from  Harbor 
I  Sow  Point  and 
abltants,  with  3 
vharves  are  built 
ccommodate  the 
agal  Cove,  across 
early  in  the  17th 
occupied  by  the 
d  towns  that  re- 
)een  captured  by 
Tons  were  beaten 
djacent  coast  was 
nd  garrisoned  by 

r  the  villageB  of  Cro- 
3ve,  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
and  Cove,  27  ;  Low 
the  "coves"  being 
mchorage.  The  in- 
snipts  at  farming,  in 
inlmon  Cove  is  near 
us  for  its  great  nuni- 
ly  which  is  ufed  for 
lined  their  name  ot 
this  clay. 


earner  (see  Route  55) 
It.  John's  to  lIarl)or 

(15  M.)     The  latter 

eption  Bay. 

alf-way  up  Trinity 

cd  in  tlie  Labrador 

ty  is  very  striking, 

seems  peculiar  to 

la  small  lake,  over 


T 
I 


TRINITY  BAY. 


Route  57.      209 


which  rises  the  dark  mass  of  Mizzen  Hill,  604  ft.  high.    Heart's  Content 

derives  its  chief  importance  and  a  world-wide  fame,  from  the  fact  that 

here  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  old  Atlantic  telegraph-cable.    The  office  of 

the  company  is  near  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  the  only  good  building 

ill  the  town. 

"  Throb  on,  strong  pulse  of  thunder  I  beat 
From  nnsworing  beacli  to  beach  ; 
Fuse  nutions  in  thy  kindly  heat. 
And  melt  the  chains  of  each  I 

"  Wild  terror  of  the  sky  obove, 
Ulidc  tnined  and  dumb  below  t 
Bear  gontly.  Ocean's  cnrrier-dove, 
Thy  errands  to  and  fro. 

"  Weave  on,  swift  shuttle  of  the  Lord, 
Beneath  the  deep  so  far. 
The  bridal  robe  of  earth's  accord. 
The  funeral  shroud  of  war ! 

"  For  lo  I  the  fall  of  Occons  wall 
Space  mncked  and  time  outrun  ; 
And  ruiind  the  world  the  thought  of  all 
Is  ns  the  thotipbt  of  one." 
John  G.  Whittiek  s  Cable  Hymn. 

The  road  running  N.  from  Heart's  Content  lead"?  to  New  Perliran,  3  M. ;  Sillee 
Cove,  6  M. ;  Hants  Harbor,  12  ;  Seal  Cove,  19  ;  Lance  Cove,  24  ;  Old  Perlican,  28 ; 
aud  Grate's  Cove,  34. 

Neto  Perlican  is  on  the  safe  harbur  of  the  same  name,  and  has  about 
420  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  cod-fishery  and  in  ship- 
building. A  packet-boat  runs  from  this  point  across  the  Bay  to  Trinity. 
Near  the  village  is  a  large  table-rock  on  which  several  score  of  names  have 
been  inscribed,  some  of  them  over  two  centuries  old. 

Old  Perlican  is  about  the  size  of  Heart's  Content,  and  is  scattered  along 
the  embayed  shores  inride  of  Perlican  Island.  It  is  overlooked  by  a 
cre.^cent-shaped  range  of  dark  and  barren  hills.  The  Northern  Coastal 
steamer  calls  at  this  port  once  a  month  during  the  season  of  navigation. 


"  O  lonely  Bay  of  Trinity, 
O  dreary  shores,  give  ear! 
Lean  down  into  the  white-lipped  sea, 
The  voice  of  God  to  hear  f 

"  From  world  to  world  His  couriers  flv, 
Thought-winged  and  shod  with  fire  ; 
The  nngel  of  His  stormy  sky 
Hides  down  the  sunken  wire. 

•'  What  saith  the  herald  of  the  Lord  ? 
'  The  world  s  long  strife  is  done  : 
Close  wedded  by  thtit  mystic  cord, 
Its  continents  are  one. 

"'And  one  in  heart,  ns  one  in  blood, 
Hliall  nil  her  peoples  be  : 
The  liands  ot  hiiinnn  brotherhood 
Are  cluspud  beneath  the  sea.' 


The  southern  road  from  Heart's  Content  loads  to  Heart's  Desire,  6  M. ;  Heart's 
Delight,  9;  Shoal  Bay,  14  ;  Witless  Bay,  19  :  Green  Harbor,  23;  Hope  All, 28;  New 
Harbor,  '-^l',  and  DildoCov", 35.  The  villages  on  this  rtmd  arc  all  small,  and  are 
nio.Htly  iiiliabited  by  the  toilers  of  the  sea.  The  country  about  Green  Harbor  and 
Hope  .\ll  is  milder  and  more  pivstoral  than  arc  the  clilT-bound  regions  on  either  side. 
Kiom  Now  Harbor  a  road  runs  K.  by  Spaniard's  Bay  (Conception  Bay)  to  St.  John's, 
in  C8  M.  To  the  S.  and  W.  lie  the  fishing-hunilcts  on  the  narrow  isthmus  of  Avalon, 
which  separates  IMacentia  Bay  from  Trinity  Bay  by  a  strip  of  land  7  M.  long.  Joining 
the  peninsula  of  Avalon  to  the  main  island.  The  deep  estuary  called  Bull  Arm  runs 
up  amid  the  mountains  to  within  2  M.  of  the  Conie-by-chancc  River  of  Placentia 
Bay,  and  here  it  is  proposed  to  make  a  canal  joining  the  two  bays. 

Hearths  Kase  is  15  M  from  Heart's  *'ontent  (by  boat), and  is  at  the  S.  entrance 
of  llandoin  Sound.  It  is  a  fishing-village  with  200  inhabitants  and  a  church.  To 
the  S.  is  the  gnind  cliff-scenery  around  St.  Jones  Harl)or,  and  the  long  and  river- 
like  Deer  Harbor,  fliled  with  islands,  at  wlin.su  head  Is  Centre  Hill,  an  isolated  con6 
over  1,000  ft.  high.  From  the  sununit  of  Centre  Hill  or  of  Crown  Hill  may  be  seea 
nearly  tho  whole  extent  of  the  IMacentia  and  Trinity  Bays,  with  their  capos  and 
i-'lands,  villages  and  harbors.  Just  above  Heart's  1-Ia.se  is  Random  Island,  covering 
a  large  area,  and  separated  from  t'.e  main  by  the  deep  and  narrow  waten-ourses 
1  :illod  Utindom  Sound  and  Smith's  Sound.  There  is  much  fine  scenery  in  t^ic  sounds 
and  their  deep  anus,  aud  snimon-fisliing  is  here  cnrried  on  to  a  cnn<lder;ible  extent, 
'iliurc  are  iuuiiense  quantities  of  8late  ua  the  2iaoret,  fuuieul'  <vliicu  has  beeu  quur- 

N 


J 


210      Route  58.  RIVER  OF  EXPLOITS. 

ried  (at  Wilton  Grove).  The  two  sounds  are  about  30  M  lorp,  forming  three  sides 
of  a  square  around  Random  Island,  and  have  a  width  of  from  >  M.  to  2  M.  "  The 
eail  up  Smith's  Sound  was  very  beautiful.  It  is  a  fine  river-like  arm  of  the  sea,  1-2 
M.  wide,  with  lofty,  and  in  many  places  prerij)! tons,  rocky  banks,  covered  with  wood. 
....  The  character  of  the  scenery  of  Random  Sound  is  wild  and  beautiful,  and  con- 
veying, from  its  stillness  and  silence,  the  fecUng  of  utter  solitude  and  seclusion." 

Trinity  is  the  most  convenient  point  from  wliich  to  visit  the  N.  shore  of 
the  Bay  (see  page  201).  The  southern  road  runs  to  Trouty,  7M.;  New 
Bonaventure,  12  M. ;  and  Old  Bonaventure,  18  M.  Beyond  these  settle- 
ments is  the  N.  entrance  to  Random::  Sound. 


58.   The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame. 

Passengers  are  landed  from  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  at  Fogo,  Twillingate, 
Little  Bay  Island,  Nipper's  Harbor,  or  Tilt  Cove,  — all  ports  on  this  bay  (see 
pages  204,  205). 

Fogo  is  situated  on  Fogo  Island,  which  lies  between  Sir  Charles  Ham- 
ilton's Sound  and  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  13  M.  long  from  E.  toW., 
and  8  M.  wide,  and  its  shores  are  bold  and  rugged.  There  are  10  fishing- 
villages  on  the  island,  with  nearly  2,000  inhabitants  (exclusive  of  Fogo), 
and  roads  lead  across  the  hills  from  cove  to  cove. 

It  is  9  M.  by  road  from  Fogo  to  Cape  Fogo;  7  M.  to  Shoal  Bay ;  5  to  Joe  Batt's 
Arm  (400  inhabitants) ;  7  to  Little  Seldom-come-by  ;  and  9  to  Seldom-come-hy,  a 
considerable  village  on  a  fine  safe  harbor,  which  is  often  filled  with  fleets  of  sclioon- 
ers  and  brigs.  If  ice  on  the  coast  or  contrary  winds  prevent  the  fishermen  from 
reaching  Labrador  in  the  early  summer,  hundreds  of  sail  boar  away  for  this  harbor, 
and  wait  here  until  the  northern  voyage  is  practicablij.  There  is  no  other  secure 
anchorage  for  over  50  M.  down  the  coast.  Tillon  Harbor  is  on  the  E.  coast  of  the 
island,  and  is  a  Catholic  village  of  about  400  inhabitants.  The  principal  settlements 
reached  by  boat  from  Fogo  are  Apsey  Cove,  14  M. :  Indian  Islands,  14;  Blackhead 
Cove,  14 ;  Rocky  Bay,  25 ;  Barr'd  Islands,  4  ;  and  Change  Islands,  8.  20  M  S.  W. 
is  Gander  Bay ,  the  outlet  of  the  great  Gander-Bay  Ponds,  which  bathe  the  slopes  of 
the  Blue  Ilills  and  the  Heart  Ridge,  a  chain  of  mountains  30  M.  long. 

From  Exploits  Island  (see  page  205)  boats  pass  S.  12  M.  through  a  great 
archipelago  to  the  mouth  of  the  Eiver  of  Exploits.  This  noble  river  de- 
scends from  Red-Indian  Pond,  about  90  M.  to  the  S.  W.,  and  has  a  strong 
current  with  frequent  rapids.  The  Grand  Falls  are  145  ft.  high,  where 
the  stream  breaks  through  the  Chute-Brook  Ilills.  An  Indian  trail  leads 
from  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  S.  W.  across  the  vast  barrens  of  the  in- 
terior, to  the  Bay  of  Despair,  on  the  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland.  The  River 
of  Exploits  flows  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course  through  level  lowlands, 
covered  with  evergreen  forests.  It  may  be  ascended  in  steamers  for  12 
M.,  to  the  first  rapid,  and  from  thence  to  the  Bed-Indian  Pond  by  boats 
(making  frequent  portages). 

The  river  was  first  ascended  by  Lieut.  Buchan,  R.  N.,  in  1810,  under  orders  to  find 
and  conciliate  the  Red  Indians,  who  had  fled  to  the  interior  after  being  nearly  ex- 
terminated by  the  whites.  lie  met  a  party  of  them,  and  left  hostages  in  their  hands 
while  he  carried  some  of  their  number  to  the  coast.  But  his  guests  decamped,  and 
he  returned  only  to  find  that  the  hostages  had  been  cruelly  murdered,  and  the  tribe 
had  fled  to  the  remote  interior.  In  1823  three  squaws  were  captured,  taken  to  St. 
John,  loaded  with  presents,  and  released  ;  since  which  time  no  Red  Indians  have 
been  seen,  and  it  is  not  known  whether  the  tribe  is  extinct,  or  has  tied  to  Labrador, 


RED-INDIAN  POND. 


Route  58.      211 


>nr.irK  three  pidcs 
«.to*2M.  "The 
■m  of  the  sea,  1-2 
overed  with  ■wood, 
icautifiil,  and  con- 
Eind  seclusion." 

t  the  N.  shore  of 
mty,  7M.;  New 
)nd  these  settle- 


Togo,  TwilUngate, 
3  on  this  bay  (see 

Sir  Charles  Ham- 
ng  from  E.  to  W., 
jrc  are  10  fishing- 
elusive  of  Togo), 

ay,  5  to  Joe  Batt's 
)  Seldo7n-come-by,  a 
rith  fleets  of  scuoon- 
the  fishermen  from 
iway  for  this  harbor,  »• 
re  is  no  other  secure 
1  the  E.  coast  of  the 
principal  settlements 
ands,  14 ;  Blackhead 
nds,8.  20MS.W. 
h  bathe  the  slopes  of 
long. 

M.  through  a  great 
'bis  noble  river  de- 
.,  and  has  a  strong 
45  ft.  high,  where 
Indian  trail  leads 
barrens  of  the  in- 
ndland.  The  River 
ugh  level  lowlands, 
in  steamers  for  12 
Lan  Pond  by  boats 

0, under  orders  to  find 
after  being  nearly  ex- 
lostages  in  their  hands 

Kuests  decamped,  ana 
ordered,  and  the  tribe 
•aptured,  taken  to  bt. 
^  no  Red  Indians  have 
■  has  fled  to  Labrador, 


or  is  secluded  in  some  more  remote  part  of  the  interior.  They  were  very  numerouB 
at  the  time  of  the  advent  of  the  Europeans,  and  received  the  new-comers  with  con- 
fidence ;  but  tlicreafter  for  two  centuries  they  were  hunted  down  for  the  sake  of  the 
rich  furs  in  their  possession,  and  pradually  retin-d  to  tiie  distant  inland  lakes. 

In  1827  the  Boeothic  Society  of  St.  John's  sent  out  envoys  to  find  the  lied  Indians 
and  open  friendly  intercourse  with  them.  But  tlicy  were  unable  to  get  sight  of  a 
single  Indian  during  long  weeks  of  rambling  through  the  interior,  and  it  is  con- 
cluded that  the  race  is  extinct.  On  the  shores  of  the  broad  and  beautiful  Red-Indian 
Pond  Air.  Connack  found  several  long-deserted  villages  of  wigwams,  with  canoes, 
and  curious  aboriginal  cemeteries.  This  was  evidently  the  favorite  seat  of  the  tribe, 
and  from  this  point  their  deer-fences  were  seen  for  over  30  M.  (see  also  page  218). 

Little  Bay  Island  (250  inhabitants),  15  M.  from  Tilt  Cove,  is  the  most 
favorable  point  from  which  to  visit  Hall's  Bay.  8  M.  S.  W.  are  the  settle- 
ments at  the  mouth  of  Hall's  Bay,  of  which  Ward's  Harbor  is  the  chief, 
having  200  inhabitants  and  a  factory  for  canning  salmon.  There  are  valu- 
able salmon-fisheries  near  the  head  of  the  bay.  From  Hall's  Bay  to  the  N. 
and  W.,and  towards  White  Bay,  are  the  favorite  summer  feeding-grounds 
of  the  immense  herds  of  deer  which  range,  almost  unmolested,  over  the  in- 
terior of  the  island.  The  hunting-grounds  are  usually  entered  from  this 
point,  and  sportsmen  should  secure  two  or  three  well-certified  Micmac 
guides. 

A  veteran  British  sportsman  has  written  of  this  region  :  "  I  know  of  no  country 
50  near  England  which  offers  the  same  amount  of  inducement  to  the  explorer,  natu- 
ralist, or  sportsman."  It  is  to  be  hoped,  however,  that  no  future  visiters  will  imi- 
tiife  the  atrocious  conduct  of  a  party  of  London  sportsmen,  who  recently  entered 
tiose  hunting-grounds  and  r^assacrod  nearly  2,000  deer  during  the  short  season, 
leaving  the  forests  filled  with  decaying  game.  Public  opinion  will  sustain  the  Mic- 
mac Indians,  who  are  dependent  on  the  deer  for  their  living,  and  who  have  declared 
that  they  will  prevent  a  repetition  of  such  carnage,  or  punish  its  perpetrators  in  a 
summary  manner. 

The  Indians  and  the  half-breed  hunters  frequently  crc<!S  the  island  from  Hall's 
Biy  by  ascending  Indian  Brook  in  boats  for  about  2J  M.,  and  then  making  a  port- 
age to  the  chain  of  ponds  emptying  into  Grand  Pond,  aud  descending  by  Deer  Pond 
and  the  lluniber  River  (skirting  the  Long  Range)  to  the  Day  of  Lslands.  Tho  transit 
U  both  arduous  and  perilous.  20  M.  inland  arc  the  mountains  called  tho  Three 
T.)wers,  from  whose  summit  may  be  seen  the  Grand  Pond,  tho  Bay  of  Exploits,  and 
tlie  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

Tlie  deer  migrate  to  the  S.  W.  in  the  autumn ,  and  pass  the  winter  near  St.  George's 
B  ly  and  Cape  Ray  The  Red  Indians  constructed  many  leagues  of  fence,  from  tho 
Biy  of  Notre  Dame  to  Red-Indian  Pond,  by  which  tliey  intercepted  the  herds  during 
tlu'ir  passage  to  the  S,  and  laid  in  supplies  of  provisions  for  the  winter. 

Ked-liidlaii  Pond  is  about  3t)  M.  S.  W.  of  Hall's  Bay.  It  is  40  TI.  long  by 
5-0  M.  wide,  and  contains  many  islands.  To  the  S.  lie  tho  great  interior  lakesi,  i  i 
an  unexplored  and  trackless  region.  The  chief  of  these  are  Croaker's  Lake  (10  M. 
di.stant),  filled  with  islets  ;  Jameson's  Lake,  20  M.  long,  between  Serpentine  Mt.  and 
Mt.  Misery ;  Lake  Bathurst,  17  by  6  M. ;  and  George  IV.  Lake,  18  by  6  M.  15  M. 
\Y.  of  Red-Indian  Pond  is  Grand  Pond,  which  U  60  M.  long.    (Sec  page  218.) 

From  Nipper's  Harbor  the  sportsman  may  pass  up  Green  Bay,  to  tho  S.  W.,  and 
enter  the  hunting-grounds  (having  first  taken  care  to  secure  trusty  guides).  On  tho 
N.  side  of  the  bay  is  a  copper-mine  that  was  opened  in  1800,  and  has  yielded  well. 

TiU  Cove  is  23  .M.  from  Hall's  Bay,  30  M.  from  New  Bay,  and  24  M.  from  Nim- 
rod.  7  M.  distant  i.«.  Burying  Place,  a  small  fishing-village,  near  which  have  been 
found  numerous  birch-bark  cofllns  and  other  memorials  of  the  Red  Indians.  A  road 
runs  N.  E  from  Tilt  Cove,  p!us.«ing  in  3  .M.  JioiinU  Harbor,  which  is  prolific  in  cop- 
per ;  and  in  4  M  S^ioe.  Cove,  famous  for  trout,  and  tho  sUition  of  a  government  boat 
%vliich  here  watches  tho  French  fisheries.  A  road  runs  N.  7  M.  from  Shoe  Cove  to 
La  Scie,  ou  the  French  Shore  (see  llouto  Gl). 


,    ii 


I 


212      Route  59. 


PLACENTIA  BAY. 


59.   Flacentia  Bay 

Is  included  between  Cape  St.  Mary  ai  d  Cape  Chapeau  Rouge,  and  is  48 
M.  wide.  Flacentia  is  tlie  capital  of  tlic  eastern  shore,  and  is  a  port  of 
entry  and  post-town,  80  M.  I'rom  St.  John's  by  road.  It  is  built  along  a 
level  strand,  overshadowed  by  round  detached  hills,  and  maintains  a  large 
fleet  of  fishing-boats.  There  are  remarkable  cliffs  on  Point  Verde  and 
Dixon  Island,  near  the  town;  and  the  views  from  Signal  Hill  and  Castle 
Hill  extend  far  out  over  the  bay.  There  is  much  romantic  scenery  along 
the  narrow  channels  of  the  N.  E.  and  S.  E.  Arms,  which  extend  from  tlie 
harbor  in  among  tlie  momitains. 

In  the  year  1660  Flacentia  Bay  waa  entered  by  two  French  frigates,  which  sailed  up 
into  tlie  harbor  and  landed  a  stronB  force  of  soldiers,  with  heavy  artillery  and  other 
n.utiitionH.  Here  they  erected  a  strong  fort,  occupying  a  point  so  near  the  channel 
that  the  Baron  La  Ilontiin  (who  was  detached  for  duty  here)  said  that  '*  ships  going 
in  graze  (so  to  speak)  upon  the  angle  of  the  bastion."  The  French  held  this  post 
until  1713,  when  it  was  surrendered,  according  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht. 
Tlie  port  became  famous  as  the  resort  of  the  French"  privateers  which  were  destroy- 
ing the  English  fisheries,  and  Oommodore  Warren  was  sent  out  (in  1692)  with  three 
60-gun  frigates  and  two  smaller  vessels  to  destroy  the  town.  Warren  ran  in  close 
to  i'lacentia  and  opened  fire,  but  was  warmly  received  by  the  batteries  at  the  en- 
trance and  by  Fort  St.  Louis.  After  a  heavy  cannonade  of  six  hours'  duration,  the 
English  fleet  w.as  forced  to  draw  off.  In  1696  Iberville  gathered  14  war-vessels  at 
IMacentia,  and  having  received  400  men  of  Quebec,  sailed  to  the  E.  and  overran  all 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  Newfoundland,  returning  with  40-50  prize-ships  and  600 
prisoners.  In  1697  the  great  French  fleet,  which  (under  Iberville)  destroyed  all 
the  Britisli  posts  on  IIud.«on's  Bay,  gathered  here.  So  much  did  the  British  dread 
the  batteries  of  Flacentia  and  the  warlike  enthusiasm  of  51.  de  Costabelle,  its  com- 
mander, that  Admiral  Walker,  anchored  at  Sydney,  with  a  s|>lendid  fleet  carrying 
4,000  land-soldiers  and  900  cannon,  refused  to  obey  his  orders  to  reduce  this  little 
French  fortress,  and  sailed  back  to  Britain  in  disgrace.  When  France  surrendered 
Newfoundland,  in  1713,  the  soldiers  and  citizens  of  Flacentia  migrated  to  Cape  Bre- 
ton ;  and  in  1744  a  French  naval  expedition  under  M.  de  Brotz  failed  to  recapture 
ifc  from  the  British.  This  town  afterwards  became  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  the 
Fvovince  ;  but  has  of  late  years  lost  much  of  its  relative  importance.  A  road  runs 
hence  to  St.  John's  in  80'M.  ;  also  through  the  settlements  on  the  S.  to  Distress 
Cove  in  26  M. ;  also  S.  W.  38  M.  to  Branch,  on  St.  Mary's  Bay. 

Little  Flacentia  is  on  a  narrow  harbor  5  M.  N.  of  Placentia,  and  has  383 
inhabitants.  Near  this  point  is  a  bold  peak  of  the  western  range  in 
Avalon,  from  which  67  ponds  are  visible.  Tlie  islands  in  the  bay  are 
visited  from  this  point.  Ram's  Islands  (133  inhabitants)  are  10  M.  dis- 
tant; Red  Island  (227  inhabitants)  is  12  ^I.  W. ;  and  about  18  M.  distant  is 
Mcraslieen  Island,  which  is  21  M.  long,  and  has  on  its  W.  coast  the  Ragged 
Islands,  365  in  number.  Tlie  great  lead-mines  at  La  Manche  are  12  M.  N. 
of  Little  Placentia,  on  the  Isthmus  of  Avalon,  7  M.  from  Trinity  Bay.  At 
the  head  of  the  bay,  33  M.  from  Little  Placentia,  is  the  village  of  North 
Harbor,  near  the  great  Powder-Horn  Hills,  and  7  JL  beyond  is  Black 
River,  famous  for  its  wild-fowl  and  other  game. 

Harbor  Buffet  is  16  51.  from  Little  Placentia,  on  the  lofty  and  indented  Long 
Island,  and  lias  833  inhabitants.  Near  the  S.  W.  part  of  Placentia  Bay  is  the  town 
and  port  uf  Uuriii)  a  station  of  the  Western  Coastal  steamers  (see  page  214). 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


Route  GO.      213 


ouge,  and  is  48 
and  is  a  port  of 
is  built  along  a 
naintains  a  large 
Point  Verde  and 
1  Hill  and  Castle  ^ 
ic  scenery  along 
extend  from  the 

tes,  which  sailed  up 
artillery  and  other 

0  near  the  channel 

1  that  "  ships  goiiis 
•nch  held  this  post 
10  treaty  of  Utrecht, 
(v'hich  were  destroy- 
(in  1692)  with  three 
Varren  ran  in  close 
batteries  at  the  en- 
hours'  duration,  the 
•ed  14  war-vesFcIs  at 
5  E.  and  overran  all 
prize-ships  and   600 
>rville)  destroyed  all 
id  the  British  dread 
Costabelle,  its  com- 
endid  fleet  carrying 
to  reduce  this  little 

France  surrendered 
igrated  to  Cape  Bre- 
5  failed  to  recapture 
16  chief  ports  of  the 
tance.  A  road  runs 
on  the  S.  to  Distress 

;entia,  and  has  383 
■svestern  range  in 
is  in  the  bay  are 
nts)  are  10  M.  dis- 
)ut  18  M.  distant  is 
J.  coast  the  Ragged 
anche  are  12  M.  N. 
n  Trinity  Bay.  At 
he  village  of  North 
beyond  is  Black 


y  and  indented  Long 
entia  Bay  is  the  town 
(see  page  214). 


60.  The  Western  Outports  of  Newfoundland.— St.  John's 

to  Cape  Ray. 

On  alternate  Thursdays  or  Fridays  afler  the  arrival  of  the  mails  from  Europe,  the 
Western  Coastal  steamer  leaves  St.  Johu's  for  the  outports  ou  the  S.  shore  ot  New- 
foundland. 

Fares.  —  St.  John' 
S  ') ;  St.  Pierre,  S  6  50  ; 
Bl  inche,  $  10  ;  Channel  I 
age  passengers  are  about  half  the  above  priceo 
the  tickets.    The  trip  out  and  back  takes  10  to  12  days. 

St.  John's  to  Cape  Race,  see  Route  54. 

Passing  through  the  rocky  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  tho 
steamer  directs  her  course  to  the  S.  along  the  iron-bound  Strait  Shore. 
After  visiting  Ferryland  and  Renewse  (see  page  198),  the  Red  Hills  are 
seen  in  the  W. ;  and  beyond  the  lofty  bare  summit  of  Cape  Ballard,  tho 
dreaded  cliffs  of  Cape  Eaoe  (page  199)  are  rounded  well  off  shore.  Off 
Freshwater  Point  the  course  is  changed  to  N.  W.,  and  Trepassey  Bay  is 
entered.  Tho  shores  are  lofty  and  bare,  and  open  to  the  sweep  of  the 
sea.  8.^  M.  from  Freshwater  Point  is  Powles  Head,  on  whose  W.  side  the 
harbor  of  Trejyassey  is  sheltered.  The  town  contains  614  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  fronts  on  a  secure  harbor  which 
is  never  closed  by  ice.  Roads  lead  hence  to  Salmonier  (31  M. )  and  Renewse. 

In  1G28  Lord  Baltimore's  ships  of  Avalon,  the  Benediction  &n(l  the  7jt<orT/,  entered 
Tn*p:issev  Bay  under  full  sail,  bent  on  attacking  tiie  French  settlement.  The  Bene- 
diction first  greeted  the  fleet  with  several  cannon-shot,  after  whicli  she  sent  a  terrific 
broadsiile  among  the  vessels.  The  Basque  sailors  fled  to  the  shore,  and  the  Victory ^ 
lowering  her  boats,  took  possession  of  all  the  vessels  in  the  harbor  and  bore  them 
away  as  prizes.  The  town  of  Trepassey  was  destroyed  by  a  British  naval  attack  in  1702. 

The  steamer  now  runs  S.  W.  to  and  around  Cape  Pine,  on  which  is  a 
tall  circular  tower  which  upholds  a  fixed  light  314  ft.  above  the  sea,  visible 
at  a  distance  of  24  M.  1  M.  W.  N.  W.  is  Cape  Freels,  a  little  beyond 
which  is  St.  ShoVs  Bay. 

This  narrow  shore  between  Cape  Pine  and  St.  Shot's  is  said  to  Le  the  most  danger- 
ous and  destructive  district  on  the  North  American  coast,  and  has  been  the  scene  of 
hundreds  of  shipwrecks.  The  conflicting  and  variable  currents  in  these  waters  set 
toward  the  shore  with  great  force,  and  draw  vessels  inward  upon  the  ragged  ledges. 
In  former  years  disasters  were  frequent  here,  but  at  present  mariners  arc  warned 
oir  by  the  Admiralty  charts  and  the  lights  and  whistles.  St.  Shot's  is  as  dreaded  a 
name  on  the  N  coast  as  Cape  Ilatteras  is  in  the  southern  sea.  In  1816  the  transport 
Harpooner  was  wrecked  on  Cape  Pine,  and  200  people  were  lost. 

St.  Rlarv's  Bay  is  bounded  by  CapeFrecl  and  Jjance  Point,  and  extends  for  28 
M.  into  the  I'eninsula  of  Avalon.  On  the  E.  shore  is  St.  Man/s,  a  court-house  town 
and  port  of  entry,  situated  on  a  deep  land-locked  harbor,  and  largely  engaged  iu 
fishing.  To  the  S.  is  the  mountainous  Cape  English,  near  which  a  narrow  sandy 
beach  separates  the  bay  from  Holyrood  Pond,  a  remarkable  body  of  fresh  water  over 
12  .M.  long.  It  is  65  M.  by  road  from  St.  Mary  s  to  St.  John's  ;  and  at  16  M.  dis- 
tance the  village  of  Salmonier  is  reached.  This  is  a  fishing  and  farming  town  near 
the  outlet  of  the  broad  Salmonier  River,  famous  for  its  great  salmon.  To  the  N.  W., 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  is  some  striking  scenery,  near  Colinpt  Bay,  where  (-mptiea 
the  Ilodge-U'atcr  River,  descending  from  the  Quemo-Gospen  Ponds,  in  the  interior 
of  Avalon.  There  are  seveml  small  hamlets  in  this  vicinity ;  and  Colinet  is  accessible 
by  land  from  St.  John's  in  56  M.  The  \V.  shore  of  St.  Mary's  iiay  is  mouutaiaous 
and  rugged,  and  has  no  settlements  of  any  cousequcncc. 


■;  I 


2U      Route  CO. 


FORTUNE  BAY. 


Beyond  the  bold  Capo  St.  Mary  the  steamer  runs  to  the  N.  W.  across  tlio 
"wide  entrance  to  Placentla  Bay  (see  page  212).  At  about  20  M.  from  Cape 
St.  Mary  the  sharply  defined  headhiiid  of  Cape  Chapeau  Rouge  becomes 
visible;  and  the  harbor  of  Burin  is  entered  at  about  42  M.  from  Cape  St. 
Mary.  This  harbor  is  the  finest  in  Newfoundland,  and  is  sheltered  by 
islands  whose  clifl-bound  shores  are  nearly  200  ft.  high.  On  Dodding  Head 
is  a  lighthouse  430  ft.  above  the  sea,  bearing  a  revolving  light  which  is 
visible  for  27  M.  Still  farther  up,  and  almost  entirely  land-locked,  is  tiio 
Burin  Inlet.  The  town  of  Burin  has  1,850  inhabitants,  and  is  an  important 
trading-station,  supplying  a  groat  part  of  IMacentia  Bay.  The  adjacent 
scenery  is  of  the  boldest  and  most  rugged  character,  the  lofty  islands  vying 
with  the  inland  mountains. 

On  leaving  Burin  tlie  cour.-o  is  laid  to  the  S.  \V.,  passing  the  lofty  prom- 
ontories of  Corbin  Head,  Jliller  Head,  and  Bed  Head.  Beyond  the  tall 
sugar-loaf  on  Sculpin  Point  the  deep  harbors  of  Little  and  Great  St.  Law- 
rence are  seen  opening  to  the  r. ;  and  the  sea-resisting  rock  of  Capi  Chopecm 
Jioiige  is  next  passed.  This  great  lamhnark  resembles  in  shape  the  crown 
of  a  hat,  and  is  748  ft.  high,  with  sheer  precipices  over  300  ft.  high.  From 
this  point  the  course  is  nearly  straight  for  33  AL,  to  St.  Pierre,  running  well 
ofT,  but  always  in  sight  of  a  bold  and  elevated  shore. 

St.  Pierre,  see  page  185. 

On  leaving  St.  Pierre  the  course  is  to  the  N.,  passing,  in  5  M.,  the  low 
shores  of  Green  Island,  and  then  running  for  a  long  distance  between  the 
Mlquelon  Islands  and  May  and  Dantzic  Points  (on  the  mainland),  which 
are  about  12  M.  apart.  When  about  half-way  across  Fortune  Buy,  Brunct 
Island  (5  M.  long)  is  passed,  and  on  its  E.  point  is  seen  a  lighthouse  408  ft. 
above  the  sea,  showing  a  flashing  light  for  25  M.  at  sea.  6  M.  beyond  this 
point  is  Sagona  Island,  with  its  village  of  fishermen ;  and  5  M.  farther  N. 
the  steamer  enters  Harbor  Briton.  Here  is  an  Anglican  village  of  about 
350  inhabitants,  with  an  extensive  local  trade  along  the  shores  of  Fortune 
Bay.  The  harbor  is  very  secure  and  spacious,  and  runs  far  into  the 
land.  This  town  was  settled  in  1616  by  Welshmen,  and  was  then  named 
Cambriol. 

Fortune  Bay 

ia  included  between  Point  May  and  Pass  Island,  and  is  35  M.  wide  and  66  M.  long. 
Fortune  is  a  town  of  over  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  entrance  of  tlio  bay, 
and  on  the  Lnmuline  road.  Its  energies  are  chiefly  devoted  to  tlie  fisheries  and  to 
trading  with  St.  Pierre.  3  M.  £.  N.  E.  arc  the  higlilands  of  Cape  Grand  Dank,  from 
which  the  shore  trends  N.  E.  by  the  hamlets  of  Garnish  and  Frenchman's  Cove  to 
Point  Enragee.  The  E.  and  N.  shores  are  brolien  by  deep  estuaries,  in  which  are 
email  fishing-settlements  ;  and  in  the  N.  W.  corner  are  the  North  and  East  Bays, 
famous  for  herring-fisheries,  which  attmct  large  fleets  of  American  vessels.  On  tlie 
W.  shore  is  the  prosperous  village  of  Belleoreni;  engaged  in  the  cod  and  herring 
fisheries,  and  distant  15  M.  from  Harbor  Briton.  Roads  lead  from  this  point  to  the 
villages  of  Barrow,  Blue  Pinion,  Corbin,  English  Harbor  West.  Coombs'  Cove,  and 
St.  Jaques.  The  other  settlements  on  the  W.  shore  are  mere  ilshing-stations,  closely 
hemmed  in  between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  are  visited  by  boats  from  Harbor 
Briton. 


BURGEO. 


Houte  GO.      215 


N.  W.  across  tlio 
t  20  M.  from  Cape 
1  Rouge  becomes 
M.  from  Cape  St. 
i  is  sheltered  by 
On  Doddiiig  Head 
iig  light  which  is 
nd-locked,  is  the 
id  is  an  important 
The  adjacent 
ofty  islands  vying 

iig  the  lofty  prom- 
Beyond  the  tall 
id  Great  St.  Law- 
\i.o{  Cap'ZChapeau 
n  shape  the  crown 
00  ft.  high.  From 
ierre,  running  well 


5,  in  5  M.,  the  low 
tance  between  the 
mainland),  which 
)rtune  Bay,  Brunct 
I  lighthouse  408  ft. 

6  M.  beyond  this 
nd  5  M.  farther  N. 
in  village  of  about 
shores  of  Fortune 

runs  far  into  the 
d  was  then  named 


■wide  and  66  M.  long. 
I  entrance  of  the  bay, 
)  the  fisheries  and  to 
pe  Grand  Banii,  from 
b'rencliinan's  Cotc  to 
tuaries,  in  which  are 
[orth  and  East  Bays, 
ican  vessels.  On  the 
I  the  cod  and  herring 
•om  this  point  to  the 
t.  Coombs'  Cove,  and 
iliiiig-stations,  closely 
by  boats  from  llarbor 


nermltage  Ilay  Is  an  extensive  bight  of  the  sea  to  the  N.  of  Pass  Island.  Its 
priniipal  town  is  Hermitage  Cove,  an  An>;lican  settlement  s)  M.  from  Harbor Uriton. 
N.  of  the  bay  is  Long  Island,  which  is  25  M.  around,  and  shulteni  the  Bay  of  De« 
81>alr,  famous  for  its  prolitic  salmon-tisherit'S.  From  the  liead  of  this  bay  Indiaa 
trails  lead  inland  to  Long  I'ond,  Kound  I'ond,  and  a  great  cluster  of  unvisited  lakes 
situated  in  a  land  of  forests  and  mountains.  From  the  farther  end  of  these  inland 
waters  diverge  the  great  trails  to  the  Uivcr  of  Exploits  and  Hall's  Bay. 

After  running  out  to  the  S.  W.  between  Sagona  Island  and  Connaigre 
Head,  the  course  is  laid  along  the  comparatively  straight  coast  called  tho 
Western  Shore,  extending  from  Fortune  Bay  to  Cape  Kay.  Crossing  the 
wide  estuary  of  Hermitage  Bay,  tho  bold  highlands  of  Cape  La  Hune  are 
approached,  12  M.  N.  of  the  Penguin  Islands.  About  25  M.  W.  of  Cape 
La  Hunc  the  steamer  passes  the  Ramea  Islands,  of  which  the  isle  called 
Columbo  is  remarkable  for  its  height  and  boldness.  There  is  a  fishing- 
community  located  hero ;  and  tho  August  herrings  are  held  as  very 
choice. 

The  old  marine  records  report  of  tho  Ramea  Isles :  "In  which  isles  are  so  great 
abundance  of  the  huge  and  mightio  sea-oxen  with  great  teeth  in  the  moneths  of 
April,  May,  and  June,  that  there  hauo  been  flfteene  buudreth  killed  there  by  one 
email  barke  in  the  yeere  1591." 

In  1597  the  English  ship  Hopeivell  entered  the  harbor  of  Ramea  and  tried  to 
plunder  the  French  vessels  there  of  their  stores  and  powder,  but  was  forced  by  a 
shore-battery  to  leave  incontinently. 

About  9  M.  W.  N.  W.  of  Ramea  Columbe,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Buxgeo,  a  port  of  entry  and  trading-station  of  650  inhabitants,  sit- 
uated on  one  of  tho  Burgeo  Isles,  which  hero  form  several  small,  snug 
harbors.  This  town  is  the  most  important  on  the  Western  Shore,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  for  vessels  seeking  supplies.  3  M.  distant  is  Upper 
Burgeo,  built  on  the  grassy  sand-banks  of  a  small  islet;  and  7  M.  N.  is 
the  salmon-fishery  at  Grandy's  Brook,  on  the  line  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  F.  and 
London  Telegraph. 

Beyond  tho  Burgeo  Isles  the  course  is  laid  along  the  Western  Shore,  and 
at  about  25  M.  the  massive  heights  at  the  head  of  Grand  Bruit  Bay  are 
seen.  5  M.  farther  on,  after  passing  Ireland  Island,  the  steamer  turns  into 
La  Poile  Bay,  a  narrow  arm  of  tho  sea  which  cleaves  the  hills  for  10  M. 
Tho  vessel  ascends  3  ^I.  to  La  Poile  (Little  Bay),  a  small  and  decadent 
fishing-village  on  the  W.  shore. 

The  distance  from  La  Poile  to  Channel,  the  last  port  of  call,  is  30  M., 
and  the  coast  is  studded  with  small  hamlets.  Gai-ia  Bay  is  5  -  6  M.  W. 
of  La  Poile,  and  has  two  or  three  villages,  situated  amid  picturesque 
scenery  and  surrounded  by  forests.  Rose  Blanche  is  midway  between 
La  Poile  and  Channel,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  with  nearly  500  inhabitants, 
situated  on  a  small  and  snug  harbor  among  tho  mountains.  It  has  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  adjacent  fishing-settlements.  8  M.  beyond  Rose 
Blanche  are  the  Burnt  Islands,  and  3  M.  farther  on  are  the  Dead  Islands. 
At  8-10  M.  inland  are  seen  tho  dark  and  desolate  crests  of  the  Long- 
Range  Mountains,  sheltering  the  CoJroy  Valley. 


216      Route  Gl. 


PORT  AU  BASQUE. 


The  Dead  Islandft  (French,  Lex  hies  mix  Mortx)  nn>  fo  tinmod  on  acrount  of 
the  many  fatul  wn-ekH  whicli  have  occurred  on  thoir  dark  rocks.  The  name  was 
given  utter  the  Iohh  of  un  enii}?riint-8hi|),  when  the  islaiuls  were  so  fringed  witli 
human  corpses  that  it  took  a  panK  of  nn'n  five  dajs  to  liury  tlieui.  Oeor^c!  llarvi  y 
formerly  lived  on  one  of  the  i.-iands.  and  saved  hundreds  of  lives  by  holdly  putUiiR 
out  to  the  wrecked  ships.  About  1830  tlie  JJispntih  struck  on  one  of  the  isles.  Miu 
was  full  of  Inuidjifrants,  and  her  boats  could  not  live  in  the  heavy  gale  which  was 
rapidly  breaking  her  up,  lUit  Harvey  pushed  out  in  lii.^  row-bout,  attended  only 
by  his  daughter  (17  years  old)  anil  a  boy  12  years  old.  He  landed  every  one  of  the 
passengers  and  crew  (llJ3  in  number)  safely,  and  fed  them  for  tlirce  weeks,  in.>^o- 
much  that  his  family  had  nothing  but  fish  to  eat  all  winter  after.  In  1838  tlie 
Glasgow  ship  Haiikin  struck  a  rock  off  the  isles,  and  went  to  pieces,  the  crew  dilut- 
ing to  the  stern-rail.  In  spite  of  tho  heavy  sea,  Harvey  rescued  them  all  (25  in 
number),  by  making  four  trips  in  his  punt.  "  The  whole  coast  between  La  I'lile 
and  Cape  Kay  seems  to  have  been  at  one  time  or  other  strewed  w ith  wrecks.  Kvcry 
bouse  is  surrounded  with  old  rigging,  spars,  n;asts.  tails,  ships'  bells,  rudders, 
wheels,  and  other  matters.  Tho  houses  too  contain  telescopes,  compasses,  and  por- 
tions of  ships' furniture."'  (Prof.  Jlkks.) 

Channel  (or  Port  au  Basque)  is  3-4  M.  W.  of  the  Dead  Isles,  and  30 
M.  from  La  Poile.  It  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  transfer-stution  of  the  N.  Y., 
N.  F.  and  London  Telegraph  Company,  and  has  nearly  600  inhabitants, 
with  an  Anglican  church  and  several  mercantile  establishments.  Tho 
fisheries  are  of  much  importance,  and  large  quantities  of  halibut  arc 
caught  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  miles  to  the  W.  is  the  great  Table  Mt., 
over  Capo  Ray,  beyond  Avhich  the  French  Shore  turns  to  the  N.  A 
schooner  leaves  Port  au  Basque  every  fortnight,  on  tho  arrival  of  tho 
steamer  from  St.  John's,  and  carries  the  mails  N.  to  St.  George's  Bay,  tho 
Bay  of  Islands,  and  Bonne  Bay  (see  Route  61). 

The  steamer,  on  every  alternate  trip,  runs  S.  W.  from  Channel  to  Syd- 
ney, Cape  Breton.  The  course  is  across  the  open  sea,  and  no  land  is  seen, 
after  the  mountains  about  Cape  Ray  sink  below  the  horizon,  until  the 
shores  of  Cape  Breton  are  approached. 

Sydney,  see  page  150. 


6L    The  French  Shore  of  Newfoundland.  — Cape  Bay  to 

Gape  St.  John. 

It  is  not  likely  that  any  tourists,  except,  perhaps,  a  few  adventurous  yachtsmen, 
will  visit  this  dislrict.  It  is  destitute  of  hotels  and  roads,  and  has  only  one  short 
and  infrequent  mail-packet  route.  The  only  settlements  are  a  few  widely  scattered 
fishing-villages,  inhabited  by  a  rude  and  hardy  class  of  mariners  ;  and  no  form  of 
local  government  has  ever  l)een  established  on  any  part  of  the  shore.  But  the  Editor 
is  reluctant  to  pa.>-s  over  such  a  vast  extent  of  the  coast  of  the  Maritime  Provinces 
without  some  brief  notice,  e.>-pcciiilly  since  this  district  is  in  many  of  its  features  to 
unique.  The  Editor  wa**  unable,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  tlic  sea.«on,  to  visit  the 
French  Shore  in  person,  but  has  been  aided  in  the  preparation  of  the  following 
notes,  both  by  gentlemen  who  have  traversed  the  coast  and  the  inland  lakes,  and 
by  various  stjitistics  of  the  Province.  It  is  therefore  believed  that  the  ensuing 
itinerary  is  correct  in  all  its  main  features.  The  distances  have  been  verified  by 
comparison  with  the  British  Admiralty  charts. 

The  French  Shore  may  be  vi.-ited  by  the  trading-schooners  which  run  from  port 
to  port  throughout  its  whole  extent  during  the  suumier  teason.  The  most  interest- 
ing parts  of  it  may  also  be  seen  by  taking  the  mail-packet  which  leaves  Port  au 
Bosque  (Channel)  fortnightly,  and  runs  N.  to  Bonne  Bay,  touching  all  along  tho 
coast. 


i 


CAPE  RAY. 


Route  CI.      217 


imod  on  acrount  of 
ks.    The  name  wiis 

re  so  Irinf^eil  witli 
In.     Oeorgt!  llarviy 

><  l>.v  boldly  puttinj^ 
lie  of  the  isles.  .«lif 
'iivy  giile  which  was 
boat,  attended  only 
led  every  one  of  the 

three  weelts,  in.^^o- 

after.  In  1838  the 
'ces,  the  rrew  clini;- 
lod  tlicni  all  (2o  in 

t  between  La  I'cile 

ith  wrecks.  Kvery 
lips'  bells,  rudders, 

oinpasses,  and  por- 


)ead  Isles,  nnd  30 
tion  of  the  N.  Y., 
600  inhabitants, 
bli.shmcnts.  The 
!3  of  lialibut  are 
great  Table  Ml., 
IIS  to  the  N.  A 
10  arrival  of  the 
jleorge's  Bay,  the 

I  Channel  to  Syd- 
d  no  land  i.s  seen, 
iorizon,  until  the 


Cape  Bay  to 


iturous  yachtsmen, 
has  only  one  short 
ew  widely  scattered 
s  ;  and  no  form  of 
ore.  But  the  Editor 
Maritime  Provinces 
ly  of  its  features  to 
sea.son,  to  vi.^it  the 
on  of  the  following 
e  inland  lalces,  and 
I  that  the  ensuing 
re  been  verified  by 

lich  run  from  port 
The  most  iuterest- 
licla  kares  Port  au 
hing  all  along  tlio 


The  French  Shore  extends  from  Capo  St.  John  (N,  of  Notro  Damo  Bay) 
around  the  .N.  and  W.  coasts  of  the  i.^land  to  Capo  Ily.incladlng  the  richest  val- 
lev.s  and  fairest  soil  of  Newfoundland.  It  is  nearly  exempt  from  fogs,  borders  on 
tlio  most  prolific  llshing-Kround:*,  and  i.s  called  the  "  Garden  of  Newfoundland." 
IJy  the  treaties  of  1713,  17(53,  and  1783,  the  French  received  the  right  to  catch  and 
cure  fish,  and  to  erect  huts  and  stages  along  this  entire  coast,  — a  concession  of 
which  they  have  availed  tininselves  to  the  fullest  extent.  There  are  several  Uritish 
colonies  along  the  shore,  but  they  live  without  law  or  magistrates,  since  the  homo 
government  believes  that  such  appointments  would  bo  against  the  spirit  of  the 
treaties  with  France  (which  practically  neutralized  the  coast).  The  only  authority 
is  that  which  is  given  by  courtesy  to  the  resident  clergymen  of  the  settlements. 

It  is  9  M.  from  Channel  to  Cape  Hay,  where  the  Frencli  Shore  begins.  The  dis- 
tances from  this  point  are  given  aa  between  liarbor  and  harbor,  and  do  not  represent 
the  straight  course  from  one  outport  to  another  at  a  great  distimco. 

Cape  Kay  to  Codroy,13  M. ;  Capo  Anguille,  18  (Crahb's  Brook,  46;  Middle  Branch , 
60;  Robinson's  Point,  .')5;  Flat  Bay,  57;  Sandy  Point,  06 ;  Indian  Head,  75) ;  Capo 
St.  George,  64  ;  Port  au  Port  (Long  Point),  84  ;  Bay  of  Islands,  108  ;  Cape  Gregory, 


St.  Jolin,  400. 


*  Cape  Bay  is  the  S.  \V.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  strikingly  pic- 
turesque in  its  outlines.  3  M.  from  the  shore  ri.«cs  a  great  table-moun- 
tain, with  sides  1,700  ft.  high  and  an  extensive  plateau  on  the  summit. 
Nearer  the  sea  is  the  Suyar  Loaf,  a  symmetrical  conical  peak  800  ft.  high, 
N.  of  which  is  the  Tolt  Peak,  1,280  ft.  high.  These  heights  may  bo  seen 
for  50  M.  at  sea,  and  the  flashing  light  on  the  cape  is  visible  at  night  for  20 
M.  From  this  point  St.  Taul's  Island  bears  S.  W.  42  SI.,  and  Cape  North 
is  W.  by  S.  57  M.  (see  page  160). 

Soon  after  passing  out  to  the  \V.  of  Cape  Ray,  Cape  Anguille  is  seen  on 
the  N.,  —  a  bold  promontory  nearly  1,200  ft.  high.  Between  these  capes 
is  the  valley  of  the  Great  Codroy  River,  with  a  farming  population  of 
several  hundred  souls;  and  along  its  course  is  the  mountain-wall  called 
the  Long  Bange,  stretching  obliquely  across  the  island  to  the  shores  of 
"White  Bay. 

St.  George's  Bay  extends  for  about  50  M.  inland,  and  its  shores  aro 
said  to  be  very  rich  and  fertile,  abounding  also  in  coal.  The  scenery 
about  the  hamlet  of  CraU/s  Brook  "forms  a  most  lovely  and  most  Kng- 
lish  picture."  There  arc  several  small  hamlets  around  the  bay,  of  which 
Sandy  Point  is  the  chief,  having  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches.  The 
people  are  rude  and  uncultured,  fond  of  roaming  and  adventure;  but  the 
moral  condition  of  these  communities  ranks  high  in  excellence,  and  great 
deference  is  paid  to  the  clergy.  The  Mi«  mac  Indians  are  often  seen  in 
this  vicinity,  and  are  partially  civilized,  and  devout  members  of  the  Catholic 
Church.  The  country  to  the  E.  is  mountainous,  merging  into  wide  grassy 
plains,  <m  which  the  deer  pass  the  winter  season,  roaming  about  the  icy 
levels  of  the  great  interior  lakes. 
10 


J 


218      Routed. 


GRAND  rOXD. 


Grand  Pond  Is  usually  (nnd  mroly)  visitcfl  from  St.  George's  Bay.  Aft«<r  ns. 
cendiiiK  the  broad  Kound  ut  tlic  ht-ad  of  the  bay  for  about  10  IM.,  a  blind  forest-iuitli 
is  eiitend,  and  the  ln<liun  puii^es  liud  the  way  to  the  N.  K.  over  a  vuHt  lXI)an^e  of 
t\w*»  (very  unrouifortable  travellinfr).  Tlie  llurc-IIead  Hills  are  |la.«^ed,  and  after 
nboui  15  M.  of  ardiiouH  ninrehinir,  the  traveller  rcaelies  the  Omnd  I'ond.  "  And  a 
beautiful  >i^'ht  it  was.  A  narrow  htrip  of  blue  water,  widening,  as  it  proceeded,  to 
about  2  M.,  lay  between  Viold  loeky  precipiees  covered  with  wood,  and  ri.-ing  almost 
directly  from  the  water  to  a  lieiKht  of  5-CUU  ft.,  huving  bare  tops  a  little  faitlur 
back  at  ii  Ktiil  greater  elevation."  The  IJay  Indians  keep  canoes  on  tlio  pond,  and 
then*  arc  Keveral  wigwuin.s  on  the  sliores.  (juuio  and  tish  are  abundant  in  thesu 
wooils  and  wafers,  since  it  is  but  once  in  years  that  the  all-^laying  white  man 
reaches  th»'  pond,  and  the  prudent  iudians  kill  only  enougii  for  their  own  actual 
needs.  Tlierc  is  a  lofty  island  20  M.  long,  on  each  side  of  which  are  the  narrow  and 
ravin«'-liko  channels  of  the  pond,  with  an  enormous  dcptli  of  water.  The  route  to 
Ilnll'H  i?Hy  (m'o  *'!igo  211)  lends  up  tlie  river  from  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  pond 
for  about  35 "M.,  paK-ing  through  four  lakes.  From  the  upjierniost  pond  the  cunoo 
is  carried  for  i  M.  and  jait  into  the  stream  wbich  empties  into  Hall's  Bay.  3  M.  W. 
of  the  inlet  of  this  river  into  (irand  Pond  '.-  the  outUt  of  Junction  Brook,  a  rajid 
stream  which  leans  tu  tli*-  Ihimbc ;'  iCi.  r  and  Deer  Toud  in  8-10  M.,and  is  pas.^ublu 
by  canoes,  with  frequent  portage.-*. 

Near  the  N.  end  of  Grand  Pond,  abo  it  the  yenr  1770,  occurred  a  terrible  battle 
between  the  Micuiacs  nnd  the  Red  Tv'lians,  which  resulted  in  (he  externdnntion  of 
til.!  lr*^cr  nntion.  Tlie  Mi' i  ich  were  a  'Catholic  tribe  from  Nova  Scotia,  who  liad 
moved  "ver  to  NewfouiidlanU,  and  were  displacing  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  the 
lied  Indians,  or  Ha'othics.  Ir  she  preat  buttle  on  Ornnd  I'ond  tlio  utmo.'it  defcr- 
niination  and  spirit  wc-e  shov"  by  tlie  15>  uthirs,  invaded  here  in  their  inuernio.^t 
ri'treats.  But  thc^  had  only  bows  anu  arrows,  while  the  Micniacs  were  armed  with 
guns,  and  at  the  riose  of  the  battle  not  a  man,  woman,  or  child  of  the  Bed  Iudians 
of  this  section  was  left  alive. 

This  region  is  densely  covered  with  forests  of  large  trees  (chiefly  fir  and  spruce), 
alternating  with '•  the  barrens,"-  vast  tmcts  which  are  covered  witli  thick  mo.«s. 
Gov  Sir.lohn  Harvey,  after  careful  inspection,  claims  that  the  barrens  are  under- 
laid with  luxuriant  soil,  while  for  the  cultivation  of  grasses,  oats,  barley,  and  pota- 
toes there  is  "  no  country  out  of  England  or  Egypl  superior  to  it  "  The  intense 
and  protracted  cold  of  the  winter  seasons  will  preciude  agriculture  on  a  large  scale. 

These  inland  solitudes  ure  adorned,  during  the  short  hot  summer,  with  many 
brilliant  flowers.  Among  the.se  are  great  numbers  of  wild  rosci,  violets,  irises, 
pitcher-plants,  heather,  maiden-hair,  and  vividly  co'ored  llcliens ;  vliile  (says  Sir 
U.  Bonnyeastle)  "  in  the  tribe  of  lilies,  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  e.\(  ceded  not  the 
beauty  of  those  produced  in  this  unheeded  wilderness  "  '  l  onl"  "lule  man  who 
ever  yet  eros.<ed  these  lonely  lands  from  shore  to  shore  i  !>•  a  Scotchman  named 
Corinaek,  who  walked  frou.  Trinity  B.ay  to  St.  George's  Bay,  in  1H22.  He  was  ac- 
compauied  by  a  Micmac  Indian,  and  tlie  trip  took  several  weeks.  The  maps  of 
Newfoundland  cover  tliis  vast  unexplored  region  with  conjectural  mountains  and 
hyi>othetieal  lakes.  Tlij  British  Adndralty  chart  ot  Newfoundland  (.Southern  Por- 
tion) omits  most  of  the,«e,  but  gives  minute  and  valuable  top(  graphical  outlines  of 
tin?  ;  ikes  and  hills  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Despair,  the  Red-Indian  I'ond,  and  River  of  Ex- 
ploits, and  the  region  of  the  Grand  Pond  and  Deer  Pond,  with  their  approaches. 

Cape  St.  George  thrusts  a  hu<i;e  line  of  precipices  into  tlie  sea,  nnd  6  M. 
beyond  is  Red  Island^  surrounded  by  dark  red  cliiP.  2.5  JI.  farther  to  the 
N.  E.  is  the  entrance  to  Port  au  Port,  a  ,(;reat  jou'  1e  harbor  of  noble 
capacity.  It  is  separated  from  St.  George'  •  Bay  by  an  isthmus  but  1  ^I. 
wide,  at  the  W.  base  of  the  great  Table  Mt. 

The  *  Bay  of  Islands  affords  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  Province, 
and  is  sheltered  by  several  small  but  lofty  islands.  The  soil  along  the 
shores  is  said  to  be  deep  and  productive,  and  adapted  to  raising  grain  and 
produce.  Limestone,  gypsum,  and  fine  marble  are  found  here  in  large 
quantities.  There  are  about  1,000  inhabitants  about  the  bay,  most  of 
whom  are  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery. 


HUMCER  RIVER. 


ItouteGt.      219 


e'8  Bay.    After  nfu 

a  blind  forcst-imth 

r  n  vunt  ( xpaii!-f  of 

L'  jiasM-U,  ana  after 

1(1  I'onU.    "And  a 

as  it  i)rcK(odi'd,  to 

I,  und  rising  almost 

)ps  a  little  faidicr 

on  tlio  pond,  and 

iliundant  in  tlicso 

laying  white  man 

r  tht'ir  own  actual 

are  the  narrow  and 

atcr.    The  route  to 

corner  of  the  pond 

ost  pond  the  canoo 

ill's  Bay.    3  M.  W. 

(ion  Brook,  a  raj'id 

M.,and  is  pasi^ablo 

'd  a  terrible  battle 
le  extermination  of 
fa  Scotia,  wlio  had 
al  inhabitjints,  the 
the  utnio.'it  dctt  r- 
in  their  innermost 
s  vere  arnud  with 
)f  the  lied  hidians 

fly  fir  and  spruce), 
I  with  thick  moss, 
jarrcn.s  are  under- 
1,  barley,  and  pota- 
>  it."  The  intense 
■e  on  a  large  scale 
immer,  with  many 
«es,  violets,  irises, 
18 ;  while  (says  Sir 
y  exceeded  not  the 
il"  '-hite  man  who 
Scotchman  named 
1J^22.  He  was  ac- 
cks.  The  maps  of 
ral  mountains  and 
nd  (Southern  Por- 
aphical  outlines  of 
I,  and  River  of  Ex- 
eir  approaches. 

he  fcca,  nnd  6  M. 
M.  farther  to  the 
harbor  of  noble 
sthmus  but  1  M. 


in  the  Province, 
e  soil  along  the 
iiising  grain  nnd 
d  here  in  large 
e  bay,  most  of 


1 


I 


At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  mouth  of  the  If  umber  River,  the  largest  rivor 
in  Newfoundland,  In  the  liL«t  IS  M.  of  its  cour.xe  it  is  known  as  the  Hinnhtr  Smini/, 
and  is  1-2  M.  wide  and  r)()-»'i()  fiithoms  deep,  with  lofty  and  rugged  hilh  on  either 
b!  le.  Oreiit  (|iiantitie.s  of  ti  nbcr  arc  found  on  t!ie«e  ohores,  ami  the  trout  ami  sal- 
mon fisheries  are  of  considenible  value.  The  river  Hows  into  the  head  of  the  sound 
in  a  narrow  and  swift  current,  and  is  ascended  by  bojits  to  tlu"  Deer  I'ond.  Occa- 
fional  cabins  and  clearings  are  seen  along  the  shores,  inhabited  by  bold  and  hardy 
pioneers.  3  M  above  the  head  of  the  sound  then?  is  a  rapiil  1  M.  long,  up  which 
boats  an>  drawn  by  lines.  Hero  "  the  scenery  is  highly  striking  and  picturesque,— 
lorty  clilTs  of  pure  white  liinestone  rising  abruptly  out  of  the  wemds  to  a  height  of 
3  10(»  ft  ,  and  being  tiienisclves  clothed  with  thick  wood  round  their  sides  and 
over  tlii'ir  summits."  Above  the  rapids  the  river  traverses  a  valley  2  M.  wid«',  fllled 
with  birch-groves  and  hemmed  in  by  high  hills.  The  stream  is  broad  and  shallow 
for  (5  M.  above  the  rapi  Is,  where  another  series  of  raj)ids  is  met,  above  which  arc  tho 
broad  waters  of  *  l)t>er  Poiifl,  2-3  .M.  wide  and  15  M.  long.  Hero  is  tho  undis- 
turbed h  line  of  deer  und  smaller  game,  loons,  gulls,  and  kingfishers.  A  few  Micmuo 
Imlians  still  visit  these  solitudes,  and  their  wigwams  are  seen  on  the  1  >w  savannas 
of  the  shore.   (See  also  pages  211  and  21H  ) 

"  Uevond  the  furest-i overed  hills  which  surround  it  are  lakes  as  beautiful,  and 
larger  than  Lake  (jeorge,  the  cold  deir  waters  f)f  which  flow  to  tlu;  bay  under  tho 
name  of  tho  river  Ilumber.  It  has  a  valley  like  Wyoming,  and  more  roniantio 
scenci-y  than  the  Susquehanna.  The  Bay  of  Islands  is  also  u  bay  uf  streams  and  in- 
lets, an  endless  labyrinth  of  cliffs  and  woods  and  waters,  where  the  summer  voyager 
would  delight  to  wander,  aud  which  ia  worth  a  volume  sparkling  with  pictures." 

Bonne  Bay  is  23  il.  N.  E.  of  the  Bay  of  li^lands,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
of  American  and  Provincial  lishcrincn.  Great  quantities  of  herring  are 
caught  in  this  vicinity.  Tlie  mountains  of  tho  coast-range  clo.soiy  ai>- 
proach  the  sea,  forming  a  bold  and  striking  prospect;  and  tho  rivers  which 
empty  into  the  bay  may  be  followed  to  the  'icinity  of  tlie  Long  I'ange. 

Tho  coast  to  the  N.  N.  W.  for  nearly  70  M  is  straight,  with  the  slight 
indentations  of  tho  Bay  of  St.  Paul  and  Cow  biy.  Tho  Bay  of  Intjorna- 
cfioix  has  comparatively  low  nnd  level  shores,  .vith  two  excellent  har- 
bors. On  its  N.  point  (Point  Rich)  is  a  lighthouse  containing  a  white 
flasiiing-light  wiiich  is  visible  for  18  M.;  and  2  M.  E.  i^  the  fishing-station 
0^  Port  au  Choix,  whence  considerable  quantities  of  codfish  and  herring 
are  exported.  The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  dotted  with  islands,  nnd  receives 
the  Iiivcr  of  Castors,  flowing  from  an  unknown  point  in  the  interior,  and 
abounding  in  salmon. 

*'  What  a  region  for  romantic  excursions  !  Yonder  are  wooded  mountains  with  a 
sleepy  atmosphere,  and  attractive  vales,  and  a  fine  river,  the  Uiver  Castor,  flosving 
from  a  country  almost  unexplored  ;  and  here  are  green  isles  spotting  the  sea,  —  tho 
islands  of  St.  John.  Behind  them  is  an  expanse  of  water,  alive  with  fish  and  fowl, 
the  extrenica  of  which  are  lost  in  the  deep,  untroubled  wilderness.  A  month  would 
not  suffice  to  find  out  and  enjoy  its  manifold  and  picturesque  beauties,  through 
which  wind  the  deserted  trails  of  the  lied  Indians,  now  extinct  or  banished." 

The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  separated  by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  (on  the  N.),  on  which  are  tho  stations  of  iVe?<;  Ferolle  and  Old 
Ferolle.  Beyond  the  Bays  of  St.  Genevieve  and  St.  Barbe,  with  their  few 
score  of  inhabitants,  is  Flower  CovCy  containing  a  small  hamlet  and  an 
Episcopal  church.  The  great  s^aling-grounds  of  tho  N.  shore  are  next 
traversed;  and  the  adjacent  coast  loses  its  mountainous  character,  and 
sinks  into  wide  plains  covered  with  grass  and  wild  grain. 


7"^ 


Ji; 


'■f 


:1 


i 


I     ■> 


.1  ■  = 

1       ; 


220      Route  Gl.         STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 

The  Strait  of  Bdh  Isle. 

The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  now  entr  nd  on  the  N.  is  the  lofty  and 

barren  shore  of  Labrador  (or,  if  it  Lj  night,  the  fixed  light  on  Point 
Amour).  As  Green  Island  is  passed,  the  Rtd  Cliffs,  on  the  Labrador  shore, 
are  seen  at  about  10  M.  distance.  The  low  limestone  clilfs  of  the  Xew- 
foundiasid  shore  ai*e  now  followed  to  the  N.  K.,  and  at  30  M.  beyond  Green 
Island,  Cape  Norman  is  reached,  with  its  revoiving  light  upheld  on  tiic 
bleak  dreariness  of  the  spray-swept  hill.  This  cape  is  the  most  northerly 
point  of  Newfoundland. 

The  Sacred  Islands  are  12  M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from  Cape  Norman,  and  soon 
after  passing  them  the  hamlet  of  Quirpon  is  approached.  This  place  is 
situated  on  Quirpon  Island,  4  degrees  N.  of  St.  John's,  and  is  devoted  to 
the  sealing  business.  It  has  an  Episcopal  clunnh  and  cemetery.  !Multi- 
tadcs  of  seals  are  caught  otl'  this  point,  in  the  great  current  which  sets 
from  the  remote  N.  into  the  Strait  of  iJello  Isle.  Hundreds  of  icebergs 
may  sometimes  be  seen  hence,  moving  in  stately  procession  up  the  strait. 
In  front  of  Quirpon  are  the  cold  higidands  of  Jaques-Cartier  Island.  Cape 
Baidd  is  the  N.  point  of  the  island  of  Quirpon,  and  the  most  northerly 
point  of  the  Province. 

14  M.  N.  of  Cupe  nauld,  and  midway  to  the  Lnbrndor  shore,  is  Bcllc  Tsle,  in  the 
entrance  of  the  strait.  It  is  M}^  M.  lonj?  and  3  M.  broad,  and  ir  utterly  barri-n  and 
unpvotttablf.  On  its  S.  jmint  is  a  lonely  lif^hthouso,  470  ft.  a'  )vo  the  sea,  sustain- 
in;^  u  fixid  white  light  wliiih  is  vi.-ible  for  28  M.  During  the  den.^e  and  blinding? 
hnow-stornis  that  often  sweep  over  the  strait,  a  cannon  is  lired  at  regular  intervals; 
and  largo  depo.'*its  of  provi.sionu  are  kept  iiere  for  the  u.-c  ot  shipwr*  eked  mariner^, 
lietween  Dee.  15  and  April  1  there  is  no  light  exhibited,  for  the.-e  northern  seas  an; 
then  deserted,  save  by  u  few  daring  seal-huut^-rs.  There  is  but  one  ponit  where  the 
itiland  eau  bo  approached,  whicli  is  l>j  M.  from  the  lighthon>o,  and  here  the  stores 
are  landed.  There  is  not  a  tree  or  even  u  bush  on  the  island,  and  coal  is  in.portid 
from  (iuebec  to  warm  the  house  of  the  keeper,  —  who,  though  visited  but  twice  a 
year,  i.-*  happv  and  contented.  The  path  from  the  landing  is  cut  through  thu  uioss- 
covoreil  ro*  k,  and  leads  up  a  long  and  stt'cp  a-^cent. 

In  tS.'j  year  1527  "a  Canon  of  St.  Paul  in  I^onchm,  which  wos  n  great  mathcmati- 
cia;t,  ttjid  a  man  indued  with  wealtli,"  sailed  for  tlie  New  World  with  two  sliips, 
vhiih  were  litted  out  by  King  lleiu-y  VIII.  After  they  had  gone  to  the  westward 
for  many  (lays,  and  had  passed  "  great  Hands  of  Ice,"  they  reaclieil  "the  majne 
laiHl,  all  wildernesso  and  mountaiiies  and  \\o<id«>s,  and  no  naturall  ground  but  ail 
ino.sse,  and  no  habitation  nor  no  people  in  thc-fe  parts."'  They  entered  the  Strait  of 
Itelle  Isle,  and  then  "  there  aro.se  a  great  and  a  niaruailous  great  storme,  and  mm  h 
loul  weatlier,''  during  which  the  ship.s  wen;  sepuriitivl.  xii;-  captain  of  the  Mnnj  vf 
lluiljord  wrote  home «(tiicerning  histonsort-ship:  "  1  trust  in  AiniightieJesu  to  heaie 
good  newes  of  her'';  but  no  tidings  ever  came,  and  she  was  probably  lost  in  the 
(itrait,  with  all  on  board. 

The  i.-land-s  of  lielle  Isle  and  Quirpon  were  called  the  IkIcr  of  Demons  in  the 
remote  past,  and  the  ancient  maps  represent  them  as  covered  with  "  devils  raiii- 
jiant,  with  wings,  horns,  and  tails,"  They  were  said  to  be  fascinating  but  malicious, 
and  Audre  Tluvet  exorcised  them  from  a  band  «if  stricken  Indians  by  re|K'atiiig  a 
)>.'irt  of  the  Gospel  of  i^t.  John.  The  mariners  feared  to  land  on  these  haunttd 
ehori'S,  and  *'  when  they  passed  this  way,  they  heanl  in  the  air,  on  the  tops  and 
about  the  masts,  a  great  «'lnmor  of  men's  voi(«'s,  confused  and  inarticulate,  fuch  as 
jou  may  hear  from  the  crowd  at  a  fair  or  market-place ;  whcreu|)on  they  well  knew 
tliat  the  Isle  of  Demons  was  not  fur  off."  The  brave  but  superstitious  Normans 
dared  not  land  on  the  Labrador  without  the  crucifix  in  hand,  believing  that  tho.>-o 
gloomy  shores  were  guarded  by  great  and  terrible  grif&us.    TiieMi  quuiut  legends 


mt 


STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 


Houte  61.      221 


N.  is  tho  lofty  and 
ed  light  on  Point 
10  Labrador  phoro, 
clilFs  of  the  New- 
)  M.  beyond  Green 
;ht  upheld  on  tiic 
he  most  northerly 

Norman,  and  soon 
ed.  This  place  is 
and  is  devoted  to 
cemetery.  Multi- 
current  which  sets 
iidreds  of  icebergs 
ssion  up  the  stnit. 
rtier  Island.  Cttpc 
he  most  northerly 


8  Bcllo  Isle,  in  the 

utterly  liiinTii  nml 
'  )vc  the  si'ii,  siistaiii- 
u  ileiiM*  and  blindiiii^ 
I  at  ri'j^culiir  iiit*rvals ; 
liipwnckfd  iiiarincrx. 
'>o  northern  scub  ai(! 
t  one  |Kinit  whtTo  the 
>,  and  hiMc  the  stoivs 
and  roul  is  in>i)(irt(d 
li  visitod  hut  twice  a 
ut  thruiigli  tho  U108S- 

IS  n  grcnt  niathcmnti- 
orld  with  two  Hhips, 
gone  to  tlie  westward 
r»'ach«'d  "  tlie  \\\n\  no 
turall  ground  but  all 

entered  the  Strait  of 
Mi  Htoruie,  and  muk  li 
iiptain  of  tile  Mary  of 
lniiglitieJe»iU  toheaic 

probably  lost  in  the 

of  Demons  in  tho 

.'d  with  "  devils  rum- 
inating but  malicious, 
iidiuuH  by  repeating  a 
nd  on  thei-e  huuntnl 
air,  on  tho  tops  and 
inarticulate,  fuch  as 
nipon  they  well  knew 
uperstitious  Noruians 
,  believing  that  thoso 
ThoKc  (luaiut  legends 


undoubtedly  had  a  good  foundation.  In  July,  1873,  the  coasts  of  the  Strait  of  Belle 
Isle  wen!  ravaged  by  bands  of  innnenfo  wolves,  who  devoured  several  human  beings 
and  lu'Oeged  the  settlements  for  weeks. 

An  tiicient  MS.  of  158ti  relate.s  a  curious  legend  of  Belle  Isle.  Among  the  com- 
)),iny  on  the  tleet  whi<'li  wjis  conducted  througii  the  Straits  to  Queliee  in  154'J,  were 
tiie  Lady  Marguerite,  niece  of  tlic  Viceroy  of  New  France,  and  her  lover.  Their 
eoiidui  t Was  such  as  to  have  scandalized  the  Hect,  and  when  they  reriched  the  Islo 
of  Demons,  Koherval,  enraged  at  her  slian>elcssne,<s,  put  her  on  shore,  with  her  old 
nur.«e.  The  lover  leaped  from  the  ship  and  joined  the  women,  and  the  fleet  sailed 
ii»vay.  Then  the  ilonions  and  the  hosts  of  hell  began  their  assaults  on  the  forsaken 
tridi  ii'uriiig  al)nut  their  hut  at  night,  menacing  them  on  the  shore,  ond  u.ssi;ulting 
them  in  the  forest.  But  the  tuniitent  sinners  were  guarded  by  invisible  band.s  of 
Mints,  and  kept  fnini  peril.  After  many  months,  wearied  by  these  fiendish  a.ssaults, 
tlie  lover  died,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  nurse  and  the  child.  Long  tliereafter 
live  I  ^larguerite  aion(>,  '.::<til  finally  a  fishing-vessel  run  in  warily  toward  the  smoko 
of  her  fire  and  rescued  hei ,  alter  two  years  of  life  .~'nong  demons. 

From  Cape  Hajild  tie  coast  runs  S.  by  the  French  sealinjr-stations  of 
(Jrii^uet,  St.  Lunaire,  Braha,  and  St.  Anthony,  to  the  deep  indentation  of 
Hare  Ikvi,  which  i?  18  M.  long  and  6  M.  wide.  A  short  distance  to  tlic  S. 
is  the  tine  harbor  of  Croquc,  a  favorite  resort  for  the  French  fleets  and  a 
coaling  St  J  iion  for  the  steamers.  The  back  country  is  dismal  to  the  last 
di'uree. 

To  the  .'<.  E.  arc  tho  largo  islands  of  Groais  (7  X  3i  M.  in  area)and  Belle  Isle  (9  X  6 
51.).  llunning  now  to  the  S.  \V.  by  Cape  Uouge  and  Botitot,  Concho  Harbor  iss(>en 
on  the  starWoard  bow,  and  Caiiatla  Bay  is  opened  on  the  \Y.  This  gn>at  bay  i.^ 
12  .M.  lonj ,  and  is  entered  through  an  intricate  jMissage  called  tho  Narrows,  beyond 
which  it  widens  into  a  safe  and  capacious  basin.  Iho  shores  are  solitary  and  de- 
h-ertcd,  and  far  inland  are  .seen  the  great  hill-rangos  called  Tho  Clouds.  7  M.  to  tho 
S.  W.  is  the  entrance  to  lI(io|iiiig  Harbor,  and  5  M.  farther  S.  is  Fonrcliette,  12  M. 
beyond  which  is  Great  Harbor  Dvep,  a  long  and  narrow  estuary  with  such  a  depth 
•if  water  that  vessels  cannot  anchor  in  it.  This  is  at  the  \V.  entrance  of  White 
Bay,  and  is  lt>  M.  from  Cartridge  I'oint,  the  E.  entrance. 

AVliit*!  Hay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water  45  M.  long  and  10-15  M.  wide.  It  is  very 
deep  and  has  no  islands  excei)t  such  as  are  close  in  sliore.  Tho  fisheries  are  car- 
ried on  here  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  at  Cat  Cove,  .lackson's  Arm,  Chouse 
Itidok,  Wiseman's  Cove,  Seal  Cove,  and  Lobster  Harbor  aro  small  .settlements  of 
roident  fishermen.  Chouse  Brook  is  situated  amid  noble  scenery  near  the  head 
of  the  bay,  (jO  M.  by  boat  from  La  Scie.  Oa  the  high'ands  to  tlie  W.  and  S.  of 
White  Bay  are  the  haunts  of  the  deer,  which  aro  usually  entered  from  Halfs  Bay  or 
(ji  reen  Bay. 

3  M.  S.  E.  of  Partridge  Point  is  La  Fletir  de  Lis  harbor,  so  named  from 
tlic  simulation  of  the  royal  flower  by  a  group  of  three  hills  near  its  liead. 
Running  thence  to  the  F.,  the  entrances  of  Little  Bay  and  Ming's  Bight 
open  on  the  starboard  side,  and  on  the  port  bow  arc  the  St.  Barbe,  or  Horse 
Islands.  About  20  M.  from  La  Fleur  do  Lis  is  La  Scie,  the  last  .settle 
nient  on  the  French  Shore,  with  its  three  resident  families.  A  road  leads  S. 
7  ^^  from  this  point  to  Shoe  Cove,  on  the  Bay  of  Xotre  Dame  (see  page 
211);  and5M.  E.  of  La  Scie  is  *  Cape  St.  John,  the  boundary  of  tho 
French  Shore  on  the  .Atlantic. 


I 


IniHgine  the  last  hundred  feet  of  Cotiway  Peak,  tiie  very  finest  of  the  .N>w-Hampsliin' 
Uiountuin-top-.,  pricking  above  the  waves,  and  you  will  see  UiU  littie  outpost  ai.d 


222      Route  Gl. 


CAPE  ST.  JOHN. 


breakwater  of  Cnpc  3t.  John."  (Noblf..)  The  Cape  presents  by  far  the  j^mndost 
scenery  on  tlie  E.  coiust  of  NewfounUlaiiil,and  is  an  uiilirokoii  wall  of  black  rock, 
4-500  ft.  high  and  6  M.  long,  against  whose  immediate  bate  the  deep  sea  sweeps. 

"Of  the  landes  of  LAnnAPOR  and  BACfALAOs,  ltino  West  and  NonTii-vrF-ST  from 

EnGLANDE,   AM)    UEINGE   I'ARTE  OF  THE   FIKME   LANDE  OF  THE   WeST   I.VUIES. 

"  Many  haue  traualyed  to  search  the  coast  of  the  lande  of  Laborador,  as  well  to 
the  iutente  to  knowe  howe  fane  or  whyther  it  reachethe,  a.t  also  whether  there  luc 
any  passage  by  sea  throughe  the  same  into  the  fc^ea  of  8ur  and  the  Islandes  of  Alanua, 
which  are  under  the  Eqiiiuoctiall  line  :  thinkynge  that  the  wayethythershulde  greatly 
bee  shortened  by  this  vyage.  The  Spanyardes,  as  to  wliof-e  ryght  tlie  sayde  islandes  of 
spices  perteyne,  dyd  fyr.^'t  t^eeke  to  lyndc  the  same  by  this  way.  The  I'oi  tugales 
also  hauyuge  tlie  trade  ot  spiies  in  theyr  handes,  dyd  traiiaylo  to  fynde  tlie  i^ame: 
although  hethcrto  neyther  anye  su<  he  passage  is  founde  or  the  eiide  of  that  lande. 
In  the  yean;  a  thousande  and  fiue  hundredth,  CSaspar  Cortesreales  made  a  vyago 

thyther  with  two  caniuelles  ;  but  found  not  the  streyght  or  passage  he  sought 

He  greatly  nmruayled  to  beholde  the  hougc  quantitie  of  snowe  and  ise.  For  the 
Fea  is  there  froscii  e.xccdyngly.  Thinhahitauntes  are  men  of  good  corponiture,  al- 
though tawny  like  the  Indiess,  and  laborious.  They  paynte  tlieyr  bodyes,  and  weaiw 
braselettes  and  hoop«'s  of  .syluer  and  copper.  Theyr  a]>parel  is  made  of  the  skyinies 
of  marternes  and  dy vers  other  bcfistes,  whiche  they  weare  with  the  hearo  inwarde  in 
wynter,  and  outwarde  in  soonuiier.  This  apj)areU  they  gyrde  to  theyr  bodyes  witli 
gyrdels  made  of  cotton  or  the  synewes  of  lysshes  and  beastes.  They  eate  fysslio 
Miore  than  any  other  thynge,  and  esjiecially  siilmoiis,  althoughc  they  liave  toules 
and  frute.  They  make  tin-yr  houses  of  timber,  wliereof  they  liaue  great  i)lentie: 
and  in  the  steade  of  tyles,  couer  them  with  the  skynnes  of  fysshes  and  beastes.  It 
Is  said  also  that  tiiere  are  grifes  in  this  land  :  and  that  the  beares  and  many  other 
beastes  and  fi>nles  are  white.  To  this  and  the  islandes  aboute  tlie  same,  the  Uiifons 
are  accustomed  to  resorte :  as  men  of  nature  agn'caltle  vnto  them,  and  born  vndcr 
tlie  same  altitude  and  temperature.  The  Norwajs  also  sailed  tliyther  with  the 
pylotcaulcd  .John  8eoluo:  and  the  Eiiglysbe  men  with  Sebastian  Cabot. 

"  The  eoaste  of  the  lande  of  Ilacealaos  is  a  greate  tra<  t«',  and  the  altitude  thereof 
is  xlriil  deg -"es  and  a  halfe.  Sebastian  Cabot  was  tlie  fyrst  that  browglit  uny  kiioul- 
page  of  this  land.  For  being  in  Englande  in  the  dayes  t)f  Kyng  lleiir>  the  Seuentli, 
he  furny.slied  two  shippes  at  his  owne  charges  or  (as  some  .*;ay)  at  the  kyiiges,  wIkhu 
he  iK'rsuaded  that  a  i)assag(;  might  bee  found  to  Cathay  by  the  North  Seas,  and  tli;it 
spices  myght  bee  browght  from  tlieiise  souer  by  that  way,  then  liy  the  vyage  tin," 
Portugales  vse  by  the  Sea  of  Sur.  He  went  also  to  knowe  what  maner  of  lanclri 
tliose  Indies  were  to  inhabite.  lie  had  withe  hym  IJOO men, and  direct<d  his  course 
by  the  tracte  of  islande  u])pon  the  Cape  of  Laborador  at  Iviii  degrees  :  alHrmyiip! 
that  in  the  monethe  of  .Inly  there  was  such  could  and  heaiMsot  i.-e  that  he  durst 
))asse  no  further  :  also  that  the  dayes  were  very  longe,  anil  in  maner  withowt  nyght, 
and  the  nyglites  very  cleare.  Certeyne  it  is,  that  at  the  Ix  degreis,  tlu"  longest  day 
is  of  xviii  houres.  But  consydcryngt;  the  coulde  and  the  straungeness  of  the  uii- 
knowne  lande,  he  turned  his  course  from  thense  to  the  West,  folowuige  the  coast 
of  the  land  of  Baccalaos  vnto  the  xxxviii  degrees,  from  whense  he  relurneil  to  En^'- 
lande.  To  conclude,  tin-  Brytons  and  Danes  have  sayled  to  the  Bacialaos  ;  ai.d 
Jae(|nes  Cartier,  a  Frenchman,  was  there  fwyse  vitli  three  galeons. 

"Of  these  lands  J.Kobiis  'ia.>taldns  wrytetii  thus:  '  The  Newe  land  of  Buccalaos 
Is  a  coulde  region,  who-e  inhabytinintes  are  idolatours,  and  jiraye  to  the  soone  and 
nioono  and  dwers  idoles.  They  are  wliyti-  people,  and  v<  ly  rustical.  For  they  eate 
Hesslie  and  fysshe  and  all  other  thynges  niwe.  Sumtynu-s  also  they  eate  mans 
llesshe  priuilye,  so  that  theyr  Caci(|ni  have  no  knowlcage  thereof  The  ap|)an-ll  of 
both  the  men  and  women  is  made  of  beares  skynnes,  although  they  have  sables  and 
Diarternes,  not  greatly  est<'emed  because  they  are  lyttle.     Some  of  them  go  naked  in 

pooiner^  and  wean?  apparcll  only  in  wynt«'r Northwarde  from  the  region  of 

Baccalaos  is  the  land  of  Labonidor,  all  full  of  inountaynes  and  great  woodes,  in  whlclie 
are  manye  beares  and  wyide  boares.  Thinhabitauntes  ari'  idolatoures  and  warlike 
peopli',  appan-lled  as  are  they  of  Ba<calaos.  In  all  this  newe  lande  is  neyther  citio 
or  costell,  but  they  lyve  ia  companies  lyke  heardes  of  beastes.'  " 


by  far  the  grandest 
wall  of  black  rock, 
e  deep  Bca  sweeps. 


Wi^ 


:i 


D  Nonin-^EST  from 
E  Wkst  Indies. 
jiborador,  as  well  to 
80  wbethor  there  boo 
le  Islundes  of  ^bl'U^■i», 
hjthertdiuldeKreally      i 
the  saj  do  islaiides  of     • 
my.    The  I'oitiinules 
!  to  fyiide  the  (-anie; 
L>  elide  of  that  lunde. 
reales  made  a  vyago 

sage  he  sought 

we  and  iso.  For  tlio 
good  corporatiue,  ul- 
•3  r  bodyes,  and  weaiw 
niadeof  the^kynnes 
the  hearc  inwarde  in 
to  theyr  bodyes  with 
I'S.  They  eate  fyssho 
ighe  they  have  fonles 
'  liaue  great  plentie: 
shes  antl  beahtes.  It 
•ares  and  many  other 
tlie  same,  the  Hiitons 
lieni,  and  born  vndir 
led  thyther  with  the 
ian  (.;abot. 

d  the  altitude  thereof 
it  browght  liny  knowl- 
ig  Henrj  the  t<euenth, 
)  at  the  kynges,  whom 
'  North  Seas,  and  that 
then  by  the  vyage  tin) 
what  nianer  of  lamlcs 
nd  direetcd  his  eour-o 
ii  degrees  :  alHrniyngo 
IS  of  i^e  that  he  durst 
nianer  withowt  nyght, 
jin-is,  the  longest  day 
raungeness  of  the  uii- 
t.  f()low.\nge  the  eoast 
f  he  returned  to  Kn^'- 
to  the  Ihieealaos  ;  ui.«l 
eons. 

u'we  land  of  Ib.cealaos 
irayc  to  the  soone  and 
ust'ieal.  For  they  eate 
s  also  they  eate  niuiis 
•reof.  The  apiMirell  of 
\\  they  have  sables  and 
\w  of  theuj  go  naked  in 
le  from  the  region  ui 
great  woodes,  in  whleho 
dolatoures  and  warliUo 
e  laude  is  neyther  citio 


LABRADOR 


Is  the  great  peninsulnr  portion  of  North  America  wliich  lies  to  the  N.  nnd 
N.  W.  of  NewfouiuUancl,  unci  is  limited  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  the 
ocean,  and  Hudson's  Bay.  It  extends  from  about  50''  N.  latitude  to  CO", 
and  the  climate  is  er^^remely  rigorous,  the  mean  temperature  at  Nain 
being  32"  C.  The  land  is  covered  witli  low  mountains  and  barren  i)latcaus, 
on  which  are  vast  plains  of  moss  interspersed  with  rocks  and  bowlders. 
Tliere  are  no  forests,  and  the  inland  region  is  dotted  with  lake?  and 
swamps.  There  are  reindeer,  bears,  foxes,  Avolves,  and  smaller  game; 
hut  their  number  is  small  and  decreasing.  The  rivers  and  lakes  swarm 
with  fish,  and  the  whole  coast  is  famous  for  its  vahniblc  fisheries  of  coJj 
and  salmon.  At  least  1,000  decked  vessels  arc  engaged  in  the  Labra- 
dor fisheries,  and  other  fleets  are  devoted  to  the  pursuit  ot  seals.  The 
commercial  establishments  here  are  comiecled  with  the  groat  firms  of 
Kugland  and  the  Chain  1  Islands.  The  Ksipiimaux  population  is  steadily 
dwindling  away,  and  ]n   .)ably  consists  of  4,000  souls. 

"The  roast  of  Ijabrador  la  the  edge  of  a  vast  solitude  of  rooky  hills,  split  and 
blasted  by  the  frosts,  and  beaten  by  the  w.ives  of  the  Atlantie,  fi)r  unknown  ages. 
Every  form  into  whleh  nx-ks  ean  b(>  washed  and  broken  is  visible  along  its  almost 
interminahle  shores.  A  gmuu  headland,  yellow,  brown,  and  blaek,  in  its  horrid 
nakedness,  is  ever  in  sight,  one  to  the  north  of  you,  one  to  thesoutli  H<'it«and  theru 
upon  them  an?  strliM'S  and  patehes  of  i)ale  green,  —  mosses,  lean  gr)is«c«,  and  dwarf 
shrubbery.  Ocoasirtnally,  miles  of  preelplic  front  the  «ea,  in  whirh  the  faney  may 
roughly  shai>fl  all  the  struetures  of  human  .vrt.  — oastles,  )>alaces,  ami  i(in)iles.  Ini- 
n;;lne  an  entini  side  of  Hnwdway  piled  up  solidly,  om-,  two,  three  hundn-il  feet  in 
height,  often  more,  and  exposed  to  the  eharge  of  the  preat  .Vtlantie  rullers,  rUKh- 
Ing  into  the  ehurehes,  halls,  and  spaeious  buildings,  thiunlering  throtigh  the  d<ir)r- 
ways,  dashing  In  at  the  windows,  swo'iiing  u|>  the  lofty  fnmts,  twisting  the  very 
roridees  with  silvery  spniy.  f tiling  bi<k  in  bri'jht  green  cerolls  aixl  cascades  of  idl- 
very  foiun  ;  ami  yet,  all  tliis  imagined,  can  never  reach  the  sentiment  of  these 
pn'(i pices.  More  frc(|nent  than  lieadlinds  antl  n«'rp«'ndicular  st-a-fronts  are  tho 
Ket-sitiiM's,  often  bald,  tame,  and  wearisome  to  the  e\e,  now  and  then  the  perfection 
of  ail  that  Is  plctun'sciue  ami  rough,  — a  pnM-lplce  gime  to  pieces,  its  softer  fior- 
tlons  dlssolvetl  down  to  Its  roots,  Its  tllnty  hones  left  standing,  a  savag<'  scene  that 

S'ares  away  all  thoughts  of  order  and  de>iign  In  nature This  is  the  rojy  tlmo 

of  liabrador  (.Jidy).  The  blue  interior  hills,  and  the  stony  vales  that  wind  up 
among  them  from  tho  sea,  have  a  s«nniner-llke  and  pleasant  air.  1  And  myself 
jicopling  these  regions,  and  dotting  their  hills,  valleys,  and  wild  vhori's  with  human 
iiahitatlons.  .\  se<'ond  thought  — and  a  mournful  one  it  is  —  tells  me  that  no  men 
toil  in  the  fields  away  then- ;  no  women  kt-^'P  the  lumse  ofT  there  :  there  no  cliildrca 
pliy  by  till?  hnxiks  or  shout  around  the  country  school-lnmse  ;  no  bees  cfnne  homo 
to  the  hive;  no  smoke  ctirls  from  the  fann-hou.s(>  chlnuiey  :  no  orchard  blooms  ; 
no  bleating  slieep  tieck  the  mo\uitaln-sldes  with  whiteness,  and  no  heifer  lows  in 
the  twilight.    Therti  i.i  nobody  thvro ;  thcru  uovcr  was  but  a  miserable  aud  scat- 


M  i 


»'  w  > 


At 


i 


III 


224      Route  G2. 


BATTLE  HARBOR. 


tcrcd  few,  and  there  never  will  be.  It  is  a  great  and  terrible  wilderness  of  a  thou- 
f^uiul  miles,  and  lone^oule  to  tlie  very  wild  aninuils  and  birds.  Left  to  tlie  still  vis- 
iutiou  of  the  light  from  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  and  the  auroral  tires,  it  is  oulj' 
fit  to  look  upon  and  then  be  giv(;n  over  to  its  prin.eval  solitawness.  But  for  tiio 
living  thinj?sof  it;i  waters,  —  the  cod,  the  salmon,  and  the  seal,  —  which  bring  tuou- 
Minds  ol"  adventurous  fishermen  and  traders  to  itd  bleak  shores,  Labrador  would  be 
as  desolate  as  Greenland. 

"  For  a  ffw  days  the  woolly  flocks  of  New  England  would  thrive  in  Labrador. 
Luring  these  few  days  there  are  thousands  of  her  fair  daughters  who  would  love  to 
tend  them.  I  prophesy  the  time  is  coming  when  the  invalid  and  tourist  from  the 
States  will  be  often  found  spending  the  brief  but  lovely  summer  here,  uotwithstaud- 
i.ig  its  ruggeduess  and  desolation."  (IIev.  L.  L.  Noble.) 

"  Wild  aiv  the  waves  whicli  lash  the  reefs  along  St.  George's  bank  ; 
Cold  on  the  coast  of  Labrador  the  fog  lies  white  and  dank  ; 
Through  storm,  and  wave,  and  blinding  ndst,  stout  are  the  hearts  which  man 
The  tishing-smacks  of  Marblehead,  the  sea-boats  of  Cape  Ann. 

"  The  cold  north  light  and  wintry  sun  glare  on  their  icy  forms, 

Bent  grimly  o'er  their  straining  lines,  or  wrestling  with  the  storms  ; 
Free  "s  the  winds  they  drive  before,  rough  as  the  waves  they  roam, 
They  laugh  to  scorn  the  slaver's  threat  against  their  rocky  home." 

J  GUN  G.  Whittieu. 

63.  The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Labrador,  to  the  Moravian  Mis- 
sions and  Greenland. 

The  mail-steamor  Hercules  leaves  Battle  llai'bor  fortnightly  during  the  sum- 
mer. 

Battle  Harbor  is  a  sheltered  roadstead  between  the  Battle  Islands  and 
Great  Caribou  Island,  ^  M.  long  and  quite  narrow.  It  is  a  great  resort  for 
fi.sliermen,  whose  vessels  crowd  the  harbor  and  are  moored  to  the  bold 
rocky  shores.  Small  houses  and  stages  occupy  every  point  along  the 
sides  of  the  roarlstead,  and  the  place  is  very  lively  during  the  fishing  sea- 
son. On  tlie  W.  is  dreat  Caribou  Island,  which  is  9  M.  around,  and  the 
steep-.'^hored  S.  E.  Battle  Island  is  the  easternmost  land  of  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  water  is  of  great  depth  in  this  vicinity,  and  is  noted  for  it.< 
wonderful  ground-swell,  wliich  sometimes  sweeps  into  St.  Lewis  Sound  in 
lines  of  immense  waves  during  the  calmest  days  of  autumn,  dashing  high 
over  the  islets  and  ledges.  An  Episcopal  clnuTh  and  cemetery  were  con- 
pecrated  here  by  Bishop  Field  in  1850,  and  the  nephew  of  Wordsworth 
(the  poet)  was  for  some  years  its  rector.  The  first  Esquimaux  convert 
was  bajjtized  in  ISru. 

Fox  Harbor  h  .'3-4  hours'  sail  from  Battle  Island,  across  St.  Lewis 
Sound,  and  is  an  Esquimaux  village  v.'ith  igloes,  kayaks,  and  other  curious 
things  pertaining  to  this  uiuque  people.  There  is  a  wharf,  projecting  into 
the  narrow  harbor  (which  resembles  a  mountain-lake);  and  the  houses  are 
clustered  about  a  humble  little  Episcopal  clnu'ch. 

"  rarlboii  Tnland  fronts  to  the  N.  on  the  bay  5  -G  M  ,  T  should  think,  and  is 
a  rupgi'd  niountain-iii'o  of  dark  gray  rock,  rounded  in  its  upjier  m.issos,  and  slashed 
along  its  shores  with  alirupt  chasms.  It  drops  sliort  off,  at  its  eastern  extremity, 
into  a  niirrow  gulf  of  di>ep  water.  This  is  Battle  Ilnrbor.  The  billowy  pile  of  igneous 
rfK'k.  perhaps  '2r)0  ft.  high,  lying  between  this  quiet  water  and  the  broad  Atlantic,  is 
Battle  Island,  and  the  site  of  the  town At  this  moment  (July)  the  rocky  isle, 


SANDWICH  BAY. 


RoiUe  62.      225 


derness  of  a  thou- 
Loft  to  the  still  vis- 
oral  fires,  it  is  only 
mess.  But  for  tlie 
■  which  bring  tnou- 
Labrador  would  be 

hrive  in  Labrador, 
who  would  love  to 
1  tourist  from  the 
icre,  uotwithsUiud- 

auk ; 

hearts  which  man 
n. 

». 
storms ; 

)•  roam, 

homo." 

)UN  G.  Whittier. 

^loravian  His- 


ly  during  the  sum- 
Battle  Islands  and 
3  a  great  resort  for 
oored  to  the  bold 
y  point  along  the 
nc  the  fishnig  sea- 
il.  around,  and  the 
\  of  the  Labrador 
id  is  noted  for  its 
>{.  Lewis  Sound  in 
inin,  dashing  high 
ometery  were  con- 
>\v  of  Wordsworth 
isquiniaux  convert 

across  St.  Lewis 
i,  and  other  curious 
arf,  projecting  into 

and  the  houses  are 


should  think,  and  is 
r  nmssrs,  and  slashed 
ts  eastern  extremity, 
iMllowvpileofipnoous 
the  broad  Atlantie.is 

(July)  the  rocky  isle, 


bombarded  by  the  ocean,  and  flayed  by  the  sword  of  the  blast  for  months  in  the 
year,  is  a  little  paradise  of  beauty.    There  are  fields  of  mossy  carpet  that  sinks  be- 

neiith  the  foot,  with  beds  of  such  delicate  flowers  as  one  seldom  sees I  have 

never  seen  such  fairy  loveliness  as  I  find  here  upon  this  bleak  islet,  where  nature 
stenis  to  have  been  playing  at  Switzerland.  Green  and  yellow  mosses,  ankle-deep 
and  spotted  with  blood-red  stjiins,  carpet  the  crags  and  little  vales  and  cradle-like 
hollows.  Wonderful  to  behold  1  flowers  pink  and  white,  yellow,  red,  and  blue,  are 
countless  as  dew-drops,  and  breathe  out  upon  the  pure  air  their  odor,  so  spirit-like. 
....  Little  gorges  and  chasms,  overhung  with  miniature  precipices,  wind  gracefully 
from  the  summits  down  to  meet  the  waves,  and  arc  filled,  where  the  sun  can  warm 
them,  with  all  bloom  and  sweetness,  a  kind  of  wild  greenhouse." 

Tlie  course  is  laid  from  Battle  Harbor  N.  across  St.  Lewis  Sound,  which 
is  4  M.  wide  and  10  M.  deep  (to  Fly  Island,  beyond  which  is  the  St.  Lewis 
River,  which  contains  myriads  of  salmon).  Passing  the  dark  and  rugged 
hills  (500  ft.  high)  of  Cape  St.  Lewis,  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  small 
but  secure  haven  of  Spear  Harbor,  where  a  short  stop  is  made.  The  next 
port  is  at  St.  Francis  Harbor,  which  is  on  Granbj'  Island,  in  the  estuary 
of  the  deep  and  navigable  Alexis  River.  An  Episcopal  church  is  located 
here.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  precipitous  insulated  rocks,  rising  from 
the  deep  sea.  The  harbor  is  i  M.  W.  of  Capo  St.  Francis,  and  is  deep  and 
well  protected,  being  also  a  favorite  resort  for  the  fishing  fleets. 

Cape  St.  Michael  is  next  seen  on  the  W.,  11  AL  above  Cape  St.  Francis, 
with  its  mountainous  promontory  sheltering  an  island-studded  bay.  Be- 
yond the  dark  and  rugged  Square  Island  is  the  mail-port  of  Dead  Island. 
Crossing  now  the  mouth  of  St.  ^Michael's  Bay,  and  passing  Cape  Bluff 
(which  maybe  seen  for  50  M.  at  sea),  the  steamer  next  stops  between 
Venison  Island  and  the  gloomy  cliffs  beyond.  Raiming  next  to  the  N., 
on  the  outside  of  a  great  archipelago,  the  highlands  of  Partridge  Bay  are 

slowly  passed. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  24  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  St.  Michael,  and  18  M.  bej-ond 
is  Spotted  Island,  distinguished  by  several  white  spots  on  its  lofty  dark 
cliff's.  To  the  E.  is  the  great  Island  of  Ponds,  near  which  is  Batteau  Har- 
bor, a  mail-port  at  which  a  call  is  made.  The  next  station  is  at  Indian 
Tickle,  which  is  a  narrow  roadstead  between  Indian  Island  and  the  high- 
lands of  Mulgrave  Land.  Stopping  next  at  S.  E.  Cove,  the  course  is  laid 
from  thence  to  Indian  Harbor,  on  the  AV.  side  of  Huntington  Island.  This 
island  is  7  M.  long,  and  shelters  the  entrance  to  Sandwich  Bay  (the  Esqui- 
maux NetsbuctoTce),  which  is  6-9  M.  wide  and  54  M.  deep,  with  13-40 
fatlioms  of  water.  There  are  many  picturesque  islands  in  this  bay,  and  on 
tlie  N.  shore  arc  the  Jlealy  ^Its.,  reaching  an  altitude  of  1,482  ft.  On  the 
W.  side  are  Eagle  and  West  Rivers,  filled  with  salmon;  and  East  River 
runs  into  the  bottom  of  tlie  b.ay,  coming  frorri  a  large  lake  where  immense 
numbers  of  salmon,  trout,  and  pike  may  be  found.  4  M.  from  the  mouth 
of  East  River  is  the  small  settlement  of  Paradise. 

At  the  head  of  this  groat  bay  are  The  Narrows,  with  Mount  Nat  and  its  bold 
foothills  on  the  S.  "  On  either  side  hills  towered  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet, 
wood(Hl  w ith  spruce  from  ba^e  to  siniiinit,  and  the^e  twin  escarpments  abutted  ranges 

lO*  O 


1' 


226      Route  G2.         MORAVIAN  MISSIONS. 

of  bold  bluffs  vrhose  shadows  seemed  almost  to  meet  midway  in  the  narrow  channel 
that  separated  them.  Tlirough  this  pnrand  gloomy  portal  there  was  an  unbroken 
Tista  for  miles,  until  the  channel  made  an  abrupt  turn  that  hid  the  water  front 
Tiew ;  but  the  great  gorge  continued  on  beyond  till  it  was  lost  in  blue  shadow." 
On  the  N.  shore  of  tlie  Narrows  is  the  Hudson's  Kay  Conjpany 's  post  of  Klgolette, 
occupying  tlie  site  of  nn  older  French  trading-station.  At  the  liead  of  the  Narrows 
is  Melville  Lake,  a  great,  inland  sea,  all  along  whose  S.  shore  are  the  weird  and  won- 
derfiil  volcanic  peaks  of  tlio  lofty  Mealy  Mountains.  120  M.  S.  W.  of  Uigolette,  by 
this  route,  is  the  II.  B.  Company's  post  of  Norwest,  situated  a  little  way  up  the 
N.  \V.  River,  near  great  spruce  forests.  This  is  the  cldef  trading-post  of  the  Moun- 
taineers, a  tribe  of  the  great  Cree  nation  of  the  We.'it,  and  a  tall,  graceful,  and  spir. 
ited  people.  In  1840  they  first  opened  communication  witli  the  wliites.  It  was  this 
tribe,  which,  is.suing  from  the  interior  liighlands  in  ri'sistless  forays,  nearly  exter- 
minated the  Esquimaux  of  the  coast.  300  M.  from  Fort  Norwest  is  Fort  Nascopie, 
situated  on  the  Heights  of  Land,  far  in  tlie  dark  and  solitary  interior.  In  that  vicin- 
ity are  the  Grantl  Falls,  which  the  voya^eurs  claim  are  1,000  ft.  high,  but  Factor 
M'Lean  says  are  '400  ft.  high ,  —  and  below  them  the  broad  river  flashes  down  through 
a  canon  300  ft.  deep,  for  over  80  M.  300  M.  from  Fort  Nascopie  are  the  shores  of 
Ungava  Bay.  (The  Esquimaux-Bay  district  is  well  described  in  an  article  by  Charles 
Ilallock,  Ilarper's  Magazine,  Vol.  XXII.) 


The  Moravians  state  that  the  Esquimaux  are  a  proud  and  enterprising  people,  low 
in  stature,  with  coarse  features,  small  hands  and  feet,  and  black  wiry  hair.  The 
men  are  expert  in  fishing,  catching  seals,  and  managing  the  light  and  graceful  boat 
called  the  kayak,  which  outrides  the  rudest  surges  of  the  sea ;  while  the  women  are 
skilful  in  making  garments  from  skins.  Agriculture  is  impossible,  because  the 
country  is  covered  with  snow  and  ice  for  a  great  i)art  f)f  the  year.  They  call  them- 
selves Innuits  ("men"),  the  term  Esquimaux  (meaning  "eaters  of  raw  flesh") 
being  applied  to  them  by  the  hostile  tribes  to  the  NV.  On  the  600  M.  of  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Labrador  there  are  about  1,000  of  those  people,  most  of  whom  have  been 
converted  by  the  Monivians.  They  live  about  the  missions  in  winter,  and  a8sem);io 
from  the  remotest  points  to  celebrate  the  mysteries  of  tlie  Pas.sion  ^Veek  in  the 
churches.  They  were  heathens  and  demon-worshipjiers  until  1770,  when  the  Mora- 
Tian  Brethren  occupied  the  coast  under  pernnssion  of  the  British  Crown.  They  were 
formerly  much  more  numerous,  but  have  been  reduced  by  long  wars  with  the 
Mountaineers  of  the  interior  and  by  the  ravages  of  the  small-pox.  The  practice  of 
polygamy  has  ceased  among  the  tribes,  and  their  marriages  arc  celebrated  by  the 
Moravian  ritual.  The  ntissionaries  do  considerable  trading  with  the  Indians,  and 
keep  magazines  of  provisions  at  their  villages,  from  which  the  natives  are  freely  fed 
during  seasons  of  famine.  At  each  station  arc  a  church,  a  store,  a  mission-house, 
and  shops  and  warm  huts  for  the  converted  and  c'vilizcd  Esquimaux,  who  are  fast 
learning  the  mechanic  arts.  The  Moravian  mission-ship  makes  a  yearly  visit  to  the 
Labrador  station,  replenishing  the  supplies  and  carrying  away  cargoes  of  furs. 

Hopedale  is  300  M.  N.  W.  of  tlie  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  is  one  of  the 
chief  Moravian  missions  on  the  Labrador  coast.  It  was  founded  in  1782  by  the  en- 
Toys  of  the  church,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  centre  of  civilizing  influences  on  this 
dreary  coast.  Its  last  statistics  claim  for  it  35  houses,  with  40  families  and  248  per- 
sons ;  49  boats  and  40  kayaks ;  and  a  church  containing  74  communicants  and  85 
baptized  children.  The  mean  annual  temperature  hero  is  27°  82'.  The  church  is  a 
neat  plain  building,  where  the  men  and  women  occupy  opposite  sides,  and  Qcrmau 
hymns  are  sung  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  violin. 

Naln  is  about  80  M.  N.  W.  of  Hopedale,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants,  of  whom 
86  are  communicants  and  94  are  baptized  children.  It  was  founded  by  three  Mora- 
Tians  in  1771,  and  occupies  a  beautiful  position,  facing  the  ocean  from  the  bottom 
of  a  narrow  haven.  It  is  In  67°  N.  latitude  (same  latitude  as  the  Hebrides),  and  the 
thermometer  sometimes  marks  75°  in  summer,  while  spirits  freeze  in  the  intense  cold 
of  winter.  Okkak  is  about  120  M.  N.  \V.  of  Nain,  towards  Hudson  Strait,  and  is  u 
very  successful  mission  which  dates  from  1770.  The  station  otHtbron  is  still  farther 
up  the  coast,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants. 

Far  away  to  tho  N.  E.,  across  the  broad  openings  of  Davis  Strait,  is 
Cape  Desolation,  in  Greenland,  near  the  settlements  of  JuUanshaah. 


CHATEAU  BAY. 


Route  63.      227 


lie  narrow  channel 
a  was  an  unbroken 
lid  the  water  from 
t  in  blue  Bhadow." 
K)8t  of  Klgolette, 
cad  of  the  Narrows 
the  weird  and  won- 
NV.  of  Kigolette,  by 
a  little  way  up  the 
;.po8t  of  the  Rloun- 
\  graceful ,  and  siilr- 
whitea.    It  was  this 
fomys,  nearly  extor- 
8t  i8  Fort  Nascopie, 
i>rior.    In  that  vlcin- 
I  ft.  high,  but  Factor 
lashes  down  through 
ie  are  the  shores  of 
an  article  by  Charles 


erprisinR  people,  low 
lack  wiry  hair.  The 
ht  and  graceful  boat 
while  the  women  are 
lossible,  because  the 
ir.  They  call  theui- 
ftters  of  raw  flesh  ") 
WO  M.  of  the  Atlantic 
of  whom  have  been 
winter,  and  assenil;lo 
•assion  Week  in  the 

770,  when  the  Mora- 
!h  Crown.   They  were 

long  waw  with  the 
ox.  The  practice  of 
ire  celebrated  by  the 
ith  the  Indians,  and 
natives  are  freely  fed 
tore,  a  mission-house, 
iiimaux,  who  are  fast 
n  a  yearly  visit  to  the 
cargoes  of  furs. 

and  is  one  of  the 
5d  in  1782  by  the  en- 
tig  Influences  on  this 
.  families  and  248  per- 
ommunlcants  and  80 
82'.  The  church  is  a 
ite  sides,  and  German 

inhabitants,  of  whom 
indcd  by  three  Mora- 
;can  from  the  bottom 
he  Hebrides),  and  the 
H?ze  In  the  inten.>!eoold 
^dson  Strait,  and  is  a 
f  Hebron  Is  BtlU  farther 


of  Davis  Strait,  is 
)f  Julianahaab. 


4 


63.  The  LaY>rador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

At  Battle  Harbor  the  Nortliern  Coastal  steamer  connects  with  the 
Labrador  mail-boat,  which  proceeds  S.  W.  across  the  mouth  of  St.  Charles 
Channel,  and  touches  at  Cape  Charles,  or  St.  Charles  Harbor,  entering  be- 
tween Fishflake  and  Blackbill  Islands.  This  harbor  is  deep  and  secure 
(though  small),  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  tlie  fishermen.  As  the  steamer 
passes  the  Cape,  the  round  hill  of  St.  Charles  may  be  seen  about  1  M. 
inland,  and  is  noticeable  as  the  loftiest  highland  in  this  district.  Niger 
Sound  and  the  Camp  Islands  (250-300  ft.  high)  are  next  pas.sed,  and  a 
landing  is  made  at  Chimney  Tickle,  li  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Camp  Islands  is 
Torrent  Point,  beyond  which  the  vessel  passes  Table  Head,  a  very  pic- 
turesque headland,  well  isolated,  and  with  a  level  top  and  precipitous 
sides.  It  is  200  ft.  high,  and  is  chiefly  composed  of  symmetrical  columns 
of  basalt.  To  the  S.  are  the  barren  rocks  of  the  I'eterel  Isles  and  St. 
Peter's  Isles,  giving  shelter  to  St.  Peter's  Bay.  In  the  S.  E.  may  be  seen 
the  dim  lines  of  the  distant  coast  of  Belle  Isle.  On  the  N.  is  the  bold 
promontory  of  Sandwich  Head.  The  deep  and  narrow  Chateau  Bay  now 
opens  to  the  N.  W.,  guarded  by  the  cliffs  of  York  Point  (1.)  and  Chateau 
Point  (on  Castle  Island,  to  the  r.),  and  the  steamer  ascends  its  tranquil 
sheet.  Within  is  the  noble  fiord  of  Temple  Bay,  5  M.  long,  and  lined  by 
lofty  highlands,  approached  through  the  Temple  Pass.  On  the  r.  is  the 
ridge  of  the  High  Beacon  (959  ft.).  Chateau  is  a  small  permanent  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  large  area  offish-stages.  In  the  autumn  and  winter 
its  inhabitants  retire  into  the  back  country,  for  the  sake  of  the  fuel  which 
is  afforded  by  the  distant  forests.  The  port  and  harbor  are  named  for  the 
remarkable  rocks  at  the  entrance.  There  are  fine  trouting-streams  up 
Temple  Bay;  and  vast  numi  ers  of  curlews  visit  the  islands  in  August. 

"  This  castle  Is  a  most  remarkab  c  pile  of  basaltic  rock,  rising  in  vertical  columns 
from  an  insulated  bed  of  granite.  Its  height  from  the  level  of  the  ocean  is  upward 
of  200  ft.  It  is  composed  of  regular  live-sided  prisms,  and  on  all  sides  the  ground  is 
FtrewD  with  single  blocks  and  clusters  that  have  become  detached  and  fallen  from 

their  places [It]  seemed  like  some  grim  fortress  of  the  feudal  ages,  from  whoso 

embrasures  big-mouthed  cannon  were  ready  to  belch  forth  flame  and  smoke.  On  the 
very  verge  of  the  parapet  a  cross  stood  out  in  bold  relief  In  the  gleaming  UiOonlight, 
like  a  sentinel  upon  his  watch-tower."    (IIallock,  describing  Castle  Island.) 

Chateau  was  formerly  considered  the  key  of  the  northern  fisheries,  and  Its  pos- 
ecssion  was  hotly  contested  by  the  English  and  French.  At  the  time  of  the  de- 
population of  Acadia  a  number  of  its  people  fled  hither  and  established  a  strong 
fortress.  This  work  still  remains,  and  consists  of  a  bastioned  star-fort  in  masonry, 
with  gun-platforms,  magazines,  and  block-hoaxes,  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse,  be- 
yond which  were  earthworks  and  lines  of  stockades.  It  was  abandoned  in  1753, 
and  is  now  overgrown  with  thickets.  In  1763  a  British  garrison  was  located  at 
Chateau,  in  order  to  protect  the  flshories,  but  the  place  was  captured  in  1778  by  the 
American  privateer  Minerva,  and  3  vessels  and  .i70,0(K)  worth  of  property  were 
carried  away  as  prizes.  In  1790  the  post  was  again  attacked  by  a  French  fleet.  A 
long  bombardment  ensued  between  the  frigates  and  the  shore-batteries,  and  It  was 
not  until  their  ammunition  was  exhausted  that  the  British  troops  retreated  into  the 
I  !i(  k  country,  after  having  burnt  the  village.  In  1536  the  French  exploring  fleet 
ULCicr  the  lommaud  of  Jaques  Cartier  assembled  here. 


s^ 


II  : 


H'" 


l«,  I 


1^ 


•F 


Si 


' .: 


228      liouteGS.       STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 

After  cmcr{);ing  from  Chateau  Bay,  the  coiir.se  is  laiil  nrouTKl  York 
Point,  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  entered  (with  Belle  Isle  itself  18 
M.  \\.).  The  Laln-ador  coast  is  now  followed  for  about  25  M.,  with  the 
stern  front  of  its  frownlnp  clifls  slightly  indented  by  the  insecure  havens 
of  Wreck,  Barge,  and  Greenish  Bays.  Saddle  Island  Is  now  seen,  with 
its  two  rounded  hills,  and  the  steamer  glides  into  Red  Bay,  an  excellent 
refuge  in  whose  inner  harbor  vessels  sometimes  winter.  Large  forests  are 
seen  at  the  head  of  the  water,  and  scattering  lines  of  huts  and  stages  show 
evidences  of  the  occupation  of  the  hardy  northern  fishermen.  Starting 
once  more  on  the  voyage  to  the  S.  W.,  at  7  M.  from  Red  Bay  are  seen  the 
Little  St.  Modesto  Islands,  sheltering  Black  Bay,  beyond  which  Cape 
Diable  is  passed,  and  Diable  Bay  (4  M.  W.  S.  W.  of  Black  Bay).  3  M. 
farther  to  the  W.  the  steamer  enters  Louj)  Bay,  rounding  high  red  cliffs, 
and  touches  at  the  fishing-establishment  and  hamlet  of  Lance-au-Loup 
(which  views  the  Newfoundland  coast  from  Point  Ferolle  to  Cape  Kov- 
man).  Field-ice  is  sometimes  seen  off  this  shore  in  the  month  of  June. 
Capt.  Bayfield  saw  200  icebergs  in  the  strait  in  August. 

The  course  is  now  laid  to  the  S.  W.  for  3-4  ^L,  to  round  Point  Amour, 
•which  is  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  and  has  a  fixed  light,  155  ft. 
high,  and  visible  for  18  >L  From  the  Red  Clifi's,  on  the  E.  of  Loup  Bay, 
it  is  but  11  M.  S.  S.  E.  to  the  coast  of  Newfoundland. 

"  The  Battery,  as  sailors  call  it,  is  a  wall  of  red  sandstone,  2-3  M.  in  extent,  with 
Iiorizontal  lines  extciidin);  from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  and  perpendicular  fissures 
rc.«enil)ling  embrasures  and  gateways.  Swelling  out  witli  grand  proportions  toward 
tlio  sea,  it  has  a  most  military  and  picturesque  appearance.  At  one  point  of  this 
liuge  citadel  of  solitude  there  is  the  resemblance  of  a  giant  portal,  with  stupendous 
jtiers  200  ft.  or  more  in  elevation.  They  are  much  broken  by  the  yearly  assaults  of 
tlie  frost,  and  tlie  eye  darts  up  the  ruddy  ruins  in  surprise.  If  there  was  anything 
to  defend,  hero  is  a  tJibraltar  at  hand,  with  comparatively  small  labor,  whose  guns 
could  nearly  cro.ss  the  strait,  lieneath  its  precipitous  cliffs  the  dibri^  slopes  like 
a  glacis  to  the  bea<'li,  with  both  smooth  and  broken  surfaces,  and  all  very  hand- 
somely decorated  with  rank  herbage The  red  sandstone  shore  is  exceedingly 

picturesque.  It  has  a  right  royal  presence  along  the  deep.  Lofty  semicircular 
promontories  descend  in  regular  terraces  nearly  down,  then  sweep  out  gracefully 
with  an  ample  Inp  to  the  margin.  No  art  could  produce  Iwtter  effect.  The  long 
terraced  galleries  are  touched  Avith  a  tender  green,  and  the  well-hollowed  vales,  now 
and  then  occurring,  and  a-scending  to  the  distant  horizon  between  ranks  of  rounded 
hills,  look  gn'en  and  pasture-like Among  the  very  pretty  and  refreshing  fea- 
tures of  the  coast  are  its  brooks,  seen  occasionally  falling  over  the  rocks  in  white 
cascades.  Harbors  are  passed  now  and  then,  with  small  fishing-Heets  and  dwell- 
iugs."    (NODLE.) 

The  steamer  enters  Forteau  Bay,  and  runs  across  to  the  \V.  shore,  where 
are  the  white  houses  of  a  prosperous  fishing-establishment,  with  an  Epis- 
copal church  and  rector}'.  About  the  village  are  scon  large  Esquimaux 
dogs,  homely,  powerful,  and  intelligent.  This  bsiy  is  the  best  in  the  strait, 
and  i9  much  frequented  by  the  French  fishermen,  for  whose  convenience 
one  of  the  Jersey  companies  has  established  a  station  here.  On  the  same 
side  of  the  harbor  a  fine  cascade  (100  ft.  high)  is  seen  pouring  over  the 
cliffs,  and  the  fresh-water  stream  which  empties  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
contains  larj^c  numbers  of  salmon. 


L 


4:^ 


'im 


BLANC  SABLON. 


noutc  64.     229 


f 


7  M.  beyond  Fortenu,  "Wood  Island  is  pnspcd,  nnd  the  Imrbor  of  lilnnc 
Snblon  is  entered.  To  the  W.  nre  Bnulorc  Buy  and  i<onne  Kspemnec  Buy, 
with  their  trading-stations;  nnd  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  Brndore 
Hills,  several  rounded  sunnnits,  of  which  the  chief  is  1,2G4  ft.  high. 

Blano  Sablon  is  on  the  border-line  between  the  sections  of  Labrador 
'which  belong,  the  oiie  to  the  Province  of  Quebec,  the  other  to  Newfound- 
land. It  i.»  named  from  the  white  sands  which  are  brought  down  the 
river  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Several  of  the  great  fishing-companies  of 
the  Isle  of  Jersey  have  stations  here,  and  the  harbor  is  much  visited  in 
summer.  Blanc  Sablon  is  at  the  W.  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle, 
nnd  it  is  but  21  M.  from  the  Isle-ii-Bois  (at  the  mouth  of  the  bay)  to  tho 
Newfoundland  shore.  The  village  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  remarkable 
terraced  hills.  On  Greenly  hlnnd,  just  outside  of  the  harbor,  32  sail  of 
fishing-vessels  were  lost  on  the  night  of  July  2,  1856. 

Following  the  trend  of  the  N.  coast  of  the  (Julf  of  St.  Lawrence,  Blanc 
Sablon  is  distant  from  Fsquimaux  Bay  20  M.,  from  Quebec  nearly  800  M., 
and  (in  a  straight  line)  218  AL  from  Anticosti  (see  IJoute  65). 

From  Blanc  ''ablon  the  steamer  retraces  her  course  through  the  Strait 
of  Belle  Isle  to  iiatllc  Harbor. 


:. 


4   «J 


64.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Golf  of  St.  Lawrence.— The 

Mingan  Islands. 

The  ports  nlonj?  this  coast  niny  be  roachcd  by  the  American  fisliinji-Fchnonrrs, 
from  Olouci'stcr,  although  tliero  can  l>e  no  ccrtaint.v  wlioii  or  wlicre  they  will  touch. 
Bouts  may  be  hired  at  Ulanc  Sablon  to  convey  iMu^sengcrs  to  the  W. 

Quebec  to  the  Jfoisic  River. 

The  steamer  Margaretta  Stevenson  leaves  Quebec  for  the  Moisic  River  every  week, 
and  may  be  hired  to  cail  at  intermediate  ports.  Tiie  passage  occupies  30-40  liours, 
and  tiio  cabin-fare  is  $20  (including  uieulti).  Tho  round  trip  to  Muiiiic  and  buck 
takes  nearly  a  week. 

The  N.  sliore  of  the  Oulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  a  region  which  is  unique  in  its  dreari- 
ness and  desolation.  Tlic  scenery  is  wild  and  gloomy,  and  the  fhore  is  faced  witli 
barren  and  stonn-beaten  hills.  The  climate  is  rigorous  in  the  extreme.  Tliis  dis- 
trict is  divided  into  tliree  i)art8,  —  the  King's  Posts,  with  270  M.  of  coast,  from  Tort 
Neuf  to  Cape  Cormorant ;  the  Seigniory  of  Mingan,  from  Cape  Cormorant  to  tho 
Ilivcr  Agwanus  (135  .M.) ;  and  the  Ijibmdor,  extending  from  tho  Agwanus  to  Blanc 
Sablon  (15U  M.).  Along  this  5<)l  M.  of  cojist  there  arc  (census  of  1861)  but  5,413  in- 
habitants, of  whom  2,612  are  French  Canadians  and  833  arc  Indians.  1,754  are  fish- 
ermen, and  1,038  hunters.  In  the  SW  M.  there  are  but  ;i80  houses,  67 Ji  arpents  of 
cultivated  laud,  and  12  horses.  There  are  3,841  Catholics,  570  Trotestunts,  nnd  2 
Jews. 

The  wide  Bradore  Bay  is  near  Blanc  Sablon,  to  the  W.,  and  has  been 
called  "  the  most  picturesque  spot  on  the  Labrador."  In  the  back  coun- 
try are  seen  the  sharp  peaks  of  tho  Bradore  Hills,  rising  from  the  wikler- 
ness(l,264  ft.  high).  The  bay  was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  numerous 
humpbacked  whales.  Tho  village  is  ou  Point  Jones,  on  tho  E.  side  of 
tho  bay. 


I  :. 


trr^ 


I'    ) 


230      noute  64. 


ESQUIMAUX   HAY. 


n 


Hi 


.1. 


Itrndom  lltiy  in  nf  (jrmt  pxtont,  nnd  \h  HtiiiMcil  with  rlnstcrH  of  JsU'tw,  wlilrli 
niiiko  hniiul  (liviMhiiis  of  the  riiiiiisti'ail.  It  was  knnwii  in  iiiiciciit  liiiii-xiiM  Ln  Ikiie. 
ilfs  llettes,  mill  WM.s  jrniiilnl  \}\  Kranct!  to  tlm  Sicnr  !-<•  (lanlnir  di-  ('onrtnnarM'lin 
(who,  lU'ciinlinK  to  tradition,  niarrioil  a  I'rincfMH  of  Kraiici>,  tlic  daiij^litcr  of  lli-nri 
IV.).  Tliat  iiolilrinaii  »'<iit  out  aj^fiits  nn<l  oniccrH,  naiiird  tlic  nrwpoit  /Vii"'//«/i»/.r, 
and  liiiilt  at  its  cnlrancr  a  Imiwarli  callfd  Kort  rontcliartrain.  From  liini  it  d«>- 
Hrciiilfd  to  Si(>iir  KoucImt,  wIio  added  tlu>  title  "  dt-  lial)rad(ir  '  to  liis  naine  ;  and  tlii-ri; 
Htill  exist"*  n    (ini-iiolde  faniii\  in  Krance,  licuririf?  the  nanu' of /''(»«f/i»>  itr  l.iilir<iiti>r. 

On  tIdN  liiv  was  tin-  town  of  ltr<tHt,  wlilrli,  it  is  t-iainied,  waH  fonnded  )'\  nitii 
of  Itrittany,  in  tlic  .\far  ir>(i8.  If  tids  Htat4!iu<Mit  Ih  corn-ct,  Urcst  waH  tlio  Hi'>t  Kuro- 
]M-an  Hcttli-nHMit  in  America,  nntedatinK  hy  over  tliirty  yearH  tlie  fonndation  of  Ht. 
An^u-Htinc,  in  Floridii.  In  liVJT)  .liHpies  ('artier  met  Freneli  vefnelM  feanliinKfor  tiii-t 
jiort.  Aliont  the  year  IfKNl  Hrest  wa.s  at  tlie  hei(?lit  of  itH  prosiK-rity,  and  had  1,(X)() 
{lerniunent  inliiiliitunts,  2i'<>  Iiousoh,  a  ^ovii  "or  and  an  almoner,  and  Ktrun|{  foi  tillca- 
tions.  Aft«'r  tin*  «nlijiinati<in  of  tin?  Kwjn  ix  l»y  tiie  IMf>nljiiKni»is,  it  wan  no  longer 
dan^eronH  to  eHtahlinli  nmall  flslii-'){-><talioiis  alon^;  tlie  i-oiiHt,  and  Ureut  heguu  to 
declinu  rupidly.     Uuin.s  of  itH  ancit  at  workn  may  Mtill  be  foun<l  here. 

The  lidtf  of  /ioiitic-h'.yjcnnire  is  oiu!  of  tlio  most  (•a|)acif)us  on  this  const, 
nnd  is  siii'ltered  iVoiu  tlic  sou  by  a  (loiil>lo  line  of  islet.-*.  TIm!  port  h  r  illed 
lionny  by  tlio  American  fi.'ilicnnen,  who  resort  hero  iv  j^rcat  numbers 
(luring  the  lierrin<^-,'<eason.  The  islands  before  the  harbor  were  pas.sed  by 
Jaipies  Cartior,  who  said  that  they  \\«ro  "so  numerous  that  it  is  not  po.s- 
sible  to  count  them."  Tlu'v  were  formerly  (and  are  sometimes  now)called 
Les  Isles  do  la  Dcmoi.selle;  and  Tli<''vet  locates  hero  the  tragedy  (^f  Uober- 
val's  niece  Marpu(!rite  (see  page  221). 

Esquimaux  Bay  is  N.  of  I5onne-l'>peranco,  nnd  Is  8  M.  in  c  ire  "inference. 
2  M.  above  Ksquimaux  Islan  .  is  a  small  trading-post,  above  wiiich  is  tho 
mouth  of  tho  river,  ai)oun<ling  in  salmon.  TIk n'  is  a  great  archipelago 
between  the  bay  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  On  one  of  these  islands 
an  ancient  fort  was  discovered  in  tho  year  1840.  It  was  built  of  stone  and 
turf,  and  waa  surroundeil  by  great  piles  of  human  bones.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  last  great  battle  between  the  Frencdiand  Montaignaisand  the  Ksquimaux 
took  [dace  here,  and  that  the  latter  were  exterminated  in  their  own  f'u  t. 

13  M.  W.  of  Whale  Island  arc  Mistanoquo  Island  and  Shecatioa  IJav,  heyoi  I  Lob- 
Bt«T  and  KiK'ky  Harbors.  I'ort  St.  AiiKUstine  i.s  15  M.  W.  of  MIstaiKxiuo,  iMyond 
8liaK  Island  and  tiie  castellated  hiKlilan<is  of  Cumberland  Harbor.  A  line  of  liiKh 
islands  extends  hence  21  M.  \V.  by  S.  to  (ireut  Mfcrntina  Lslan/t,  a  ^Rinite  rcK-k  2x3 
M.  in  an'a,  and  5tK)  ft.  Iiiffh.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  reniarkalile  for  its  Kran- 
dcur  and  singular  features.  58  M.  from  (Ireat  Meccatina  Island  it^Cnpe  Whittle ;  and 
in  till'  int«>rvenin(;  course  the  \ViitaKheiHti<;  Sound  and  Wapitafi^un  Harlior  are  paHsed. 
A  fringe  of  islands  extends  for  0-8  M.  off  this  co!i.st,  of  which  the  outeruiust  uro 
barren  roeks,  and  tho  large  inner  ones  ure  covered  with  moss-grown  hill.-j. 


"  Now,  •»rotlipr»,  for  the  icebergs 

Of  fnizcii  Labrador, 
FlimthiK  Npectrul  hi  the  tnnnnshlno 

AloiiK  tlie  low  black  shore  : 
Where  like  miow  the  k<>i> ■let's  feathers 

On  HrnilorN  rocks  ure  hIu'iI, 
And  the  iioisy  miirr  are  flyiiiR, 

Like  black  Hciids,  overhead  ; 

"Where  in  inl.it  the  rock  is  hiding, 

And  the  Nharp  reef  lurks  below, 
And  ttic  white  h(|UuII  lurks  in  summer, 

And  the  uiituinn  teinpestu  blow  ; 
Where,  tliroiigh  griiy  and  rolling  vupor, 

From  evening  unto  iiKirn, 
A  thousund  lioats  ure  hailing, 

llorn  auftweriiig  unto  hum. 


"  Iliirrnh  \  for  the  Red  Island, 

With  the  while  cross  on  \i»  crown  ! 
Ilnrriih  !  for  Mcccntinn, 

And  its  inoiintains  bare  nnd  brown  I 
Where  the  Caribou's  tail  antlers 

O  cr  the  dwarf-wood  trccly  toss. 
And  the  foot.stc))  of  the  MicKinack 

llus  no  sound  ii|iun  the  moss. 

"  Iliirrnh  !  —  hiirrnh  !  —  the  west-wind 

Cuiiics  freshening  down  the  bay, 
The  rising  sails  are  filling,  — 

Oive  way,  my  lads,  give  wny  I 
Leave  the  coward  lun(isnicn  clinging 

To  the  dull  earth,  like  a  weed,  — 
The  stars  of  heuvcn  shall  guide  lis. 

The  breath  of  lieuvcn  shall  speed  I  " 

John  G.  Wuittieks  SouijoJ  thv  Fishermen. 


r  J 


Cu 


THE   MINCAN   TRLANDR  Rnutr  r,/,.      231 

From  tbo  quantity  of  wrwk  ftimid  ninoni;  thooo  iNlnndn,  no  donhf  mnnv  molnn- 
rlni<y  nhi|>v\nTks  liavi'  takm  ipI.kc,  wliidi  have  mvcr  lin-n  liciinl  of ,  <'Vi'n  if  tlio 
uiit<irtiuiiit<M'n'\vs  Ian    id  r>ii  tin- liarrt-n  i<Mk«,  they  woiilil  |ti  risli  ofrold  uihI  liun(f<T. 

'I'll*' "•'^XK'''"'*  '''"'''■>  ""  tlifir  ill<'(;al  IhinIim-xh  aliin^  iIm'm-  sIioivh,  wIh'i<  inilliiiiiH 
of  M'a  Itird.H  liiiv«!  tlicir  luccdinn  iilacc-*.  Tlu'y  land  rm  the  i>land.i  and  linak  all  the 
«'W,  and  wlu-n  tlM'  Idrds  lay  (iccli  on<'M  tlit'y  jfatliiT'tlifni  up,  and  ii>ad  tlicii  ImkiIm. 
'I'liiTf  ari' nl'ipiit 'JO  vi^scls  t-n^ajji-d  in  this  rontraliand  'radi-,  carry  Inn  tlif  cun^  to 
Halifax, liiadM'c, and  Hd-ton.  "  Tlu«fonn-n  condiiiu' top  thcr.and  forma  HtronK«'OMi- 
pany.  Thi'y  unifier  no  onr  to  interfere  with  tluir  l)UHineHH,  drivin^^  away  tlio  flxiier- 
iiien  or  any  one  elfi«-  that  afteni|>t.M  to  eolUM-t  e^'^x  nwir  wliere  tliey  happen  t«>  \ta. 
Mi^ht  makes  ri^fh'  witli  them,  if  our  information  )h\  true.  Tln-y  liavc  armH,  and 
are  Miiil  i>y  tho  ii-h.  rmen  not  to  he  serui-ilons  in  the  uh*  of  tliem.  As(<bon  oh  they 
liav«}  filled  one  vesxl  with  e^fjn,  they  Mnd  lier  to  market;  otherH  fillow  in  HticeeM- 
hion,  8o  tliat  tlio  nnirket  is  alwayn  t-  iippj<d,  hut  never  overstoeked.  >rie  vessel  of '-if) 
tuns  is  said  to  Imvo  «lean)d  i:  200  by  tliis  '  I'ggiug  '  bUHinuHH  in  n  favorable  scuaou." 
(Xautimt  Magazine.) 

To  tlio  W.  of  Cnpc  Wliittlo  arc  tho  Wolf,  Conroclio,  Olomanoshocho, 
VV'asli-shecootni,  tiinl  .Musqtmrro  IJivcrs,  on  the  last  three  of  which  nio 
posts  of  tho  Hudson's  IWiy  (Ndiipjiny.  Next  conic  the  Kcj^ashka  liay  and 
Kiver,  the  clifls  of  Mont  Joll,  the  cod  hanks  oil'  Nataslujuan  I'oint,  and 
several  obscnnr  rivers. 

The  Mingan  Islands  are  29  in  nnmhcr,  and  lie  l)ct  ween  the  moun- 
tainous shores  of  lower  L.'ihiador  and  the  island  of  Antirofti.  Thoy 
ahoinid  in  gcolojric'il  phenomena,  ancient  bciiches,  dciinded  rocks,  etc., 
and  are  of  very  pictiircscjnc  ci.nfours.  About  their  shores  of  I imcstoMO 
are  thick  for<!st>  of  s])riice,  birch,  and  |)oplar;  seals  and  codddi  abound 
in  tho  adjacent  waters;  and  wild  fowl  are  very  plentiful  in  the  i  opor  sea- 
son. Large  Island  is  11  M.  in  circuniference;  and  Mingan,  (^luirrv, 
Kiajiisca,  Ksquimanx,  and  Charles  Islands  are  2-;i  M.  in  length.  Tliey 
front  the  Labrador  coast  for  a  distance  of  45  M. 

There  are  about  ooo  inhabitants  near  the  islands,  most  of  whon^  arc  In- 
dians ajid  French  A  '-adians,  for  whose  spiritinil  guidance  the  Oblate  rathers 
have  established  a  mission.  The  chief  village  is  at  Mimjnn  llmbor,  on 
the  mainland,  hack  of  Harbor  I.-Iand;  and  here  is  a  post  of  the  Hudson's 
Hay  (,'ompany.  The  harlxn  i-.  commodious  and  easy  of  accc'^s,  an<l  has 
been  visited  by  large  frigates.  The  sail  ion  and  trout  Hslierics  of  tho 
Seigniory  of  Mingan  are  said  to  he  the  best  in  tho  world.  Loiu/  Point  is 
duo  N.  of  the  Terroquets,  C  M.  from  Mingan  Harbor,  and  is  a  modern  fish- 
ing-village fronting  on  a  broad  beach.  Tho  fish  caught  and  cured  here 
are  sent  to  Spain  and  Brazil,  and  form  an  object  of  lucrative  tratfic.  The 
fishermen  are  hardy  and  industrious  men,  generally  quiet,  but  turbulent 
and  desjjerato  during  their  long  drinking-bouts. 

The  Seigniory  of  tho  Mingnn  Ihlands  and  the  ndjaront  mainland  was  grnntcd  to 
tiic  Siour  Kran«^ois  Uissot  in  l»;<)l,and  the  feudal  ri^'lits  thus  conveyed  and  still  niaiu- 
ttiinei!  Iiy  the  owners  liave  greatly  returiled  tho  progress  of  this  district.  Tlio  walrus 
flHheries  were  formerly  of  great  value  here,  and  their  memory  is  preserved  by  Walrus 
Island,  on  wIioko  sliorcH  the  great  sea-cows  used  to  land.  "  In  18f>2  there  was  not  a 
Binglc  estal)lisliment  on  tlie  coast,  between  tlie  Hay  of  Mingan  and  the  .Seven  Islcfl, 
and  not  a  quintal  of  codfish  was  taken,  except  on  tho  banks  of  .Mingan  and  at  tho 
Kiver  St.  John,  wiiich  the  American  fishermen  have  fn'inontcd  for  many  years. 
Now,  thcro  its  not  u  livi r,  u  cove,  a  creek,  \vhii:li  io  not  ucxupitd, and  every  ^car  thero 


m 


232      Routed        THE  MINGAN  ISLANDS. 

nrp  tnkrn  HO-SA/'IH)  i|uiiitnlH  of  ro.l,  witliout  rountliiK  oHht  fl.xli.''  "  Tlio  onrn 
(loM(ilut<>  cMtii.HtM  ot  Miii^uii  Imvc  at'(|iiii'<>i|,  l)y  iiiiiiii}{riitii)ii,  ii  viunrouM,  moral,  ainl 
truly  ('nthdllc  |Mi|iiilati(>ii.  Tliu  iiiuii  art'  tjciicrully  btroiii;  iiud  mbust,  uuU  ubuvc  all 
they  nrc  hiinly  m-uuioii.'' 

On  the  W.  cdf^c  of  the  Minj»nn  Islamls  nro  tlio  Permfjiicts,  a  cluster  of 
low  rocks  wliero  great  nuinitors  of  fjufliiis  iuirrow  iind  rciir  their  youuj;. 
On  these  l^ll•ts  tho  steain>liiii.s  C'lijde  ami  Nurtli  Jiiilun  were  wrecked  (in 
18r)7  and  18(51). 

A  beach  of  white  sniul  extends  \V.  from  I.on;;  Point  to  the  St.  John 
Jiiver,  a  distance  of  18-20  M.  The  river  is  marked  by  the  tall  adjacent 
peak  of  Mount  St.  John  (1,41G  ft.  hi<:;h);  and  furnishes  very  good  lishing 
(see  (J.  C.  Scorr's  "  Fisliinj;  in  American  Waters  "). 

The  Miinilnii  liirrr  Is  34  M.  U'.  of  the  St.  John,  and  at  IJ  M.  from  its  mouth  ic 
makes  a  Kraiiil  Ifap  ovit  a  clitT  113  ft.  hi^li,  foruiiii^  the  most  maKiiiticout  catariu-t 
on  till!  N.  ."horc.  The  coast  Iiiiliinis  still  rcpuat  the  h>}{('iiil  of  tlu;  iuvasion  of  thiii 
country  l)y  the  Miemacs  (from  A<adia),  '2<M)  years  a^o,  and  its  heroic  end.  The  ho.s- 
tilo  war-party  encamped  at  the  talis,  inteiitliii);  to  attack  the  Montai)(nais  at  tho 
portage?.",  for  which  [nn-pose  forces  were  statii)?ied  above  and  below.  Itut  tho  local 
tribes  detected  their  presence,  and  cut  olf  the  n.iards  at  the  canoes,  then  surprised 
the  detachment  below  the  falls,  and  tiniilly  attacked  the  main  body  above.  After 
the  unsparing  <arnane  of  a  lon^  nif^ht-battle,  the  Micmacs  were  coiuiuered,  all  savo 
their  threat  wizard-chief,  who  ^tooii  on  the  vcrf^e  of  the  falls,  .>iin);int?  songs  of  de- 
fiance. A  Montaijjnai"  chief  rushed  forward  to  take  hhn,  when  the  bold  Micmao 
8ei7«d  his  opponent  and  l<-aped  with  him  into  the  foaming  waters.  They  wen;  both 
borne  over  the  ])recipicc,  and  the  falls  have  ever  t<inco  beeu  known  as  the  Mauituusia 
(Conjurer's)  Kails. 

The  Moisio  Kiver  is  about  40  M.  W.  of  the  Manitou  IJiver,  and  empties 
into  a  broad  bay  which  receives  also  the  Trout  IJiver.  At  this  point  aro 
tho  Moisic  Iron  Works,  near  which  there  are  about  700  inliabitants,  most  of 
whom  are  coiuiected  witli  tlie  mines.  Tiiis  company  has  its  chief  olllcn 
in  Montreal,  and  runs  a  weekly  .steamer  between  Moisic  and  Quel)ec  (sec 
page  231).  There  is  a  hotel  here,  where  visitors  can  get  plain  fare  at  $6 
a  week  (no  liipiors  on  the  premises).  Large  quantities  of  codfish  and  sal- 
mon are  exported  from  Moisic. 

The  Seven  Islands  are  a  group  of  barren  "mountain-peaks,  starting 
fiuddenly  from  the  ocean,"  and  situated  several  leagues  W.  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Moisic  Iliver.  They  were  visited  by  Cartier  (1535),  who  reported 
that  lie  saw  sea-horses  liere;  and  in  1731  they  were  included  in  tho 
Jhmaine  du  Jioi.  Tho  trading-post  which  was  established  here  by  tho 
French,  140  years  ago,  sub>e(iuently  reverted  to  the  Hudson's  Hay  Com- 
pany, and  is  visited  by  3-400  Nasqiiapec  Indians.  Since  the  departure 
of  the  H.  B.  Company,  the  post  itself  has  lo.st  its  importance,  but  all  ves- 
sels trading  on  the  N.  shore  are  now  obliged  to  get  their  clearances  here. 
The  Montaignais  Indians  had  a  brond  trail  ruiuiing  thence  up  a  vast  and 
desolate  valley  to  Lake  St.  John,  300  M.  S.  W.,  and  the  Moisic  River  was 
part  of  the  canoe-route  to  Hudson's  .'^ay.  The  Montaignais  were  here 
secure  from  the  attacks  of  the  dreaded  i.Iohawks  on  the  one  side,  and  tho 
maritime  Esquimaux  on  tho  other,  and  here  they  received  tho  Jesuit  mis- 
sionarles. 


I 


^^ 


THE  SEVEN  ISLANDS.        Itoutc  G.}.      233 


^^ 


Blenheim,  Uaniillics,  and  .'iiilcna.'l*, 
of  the  St.  iJiwrente."  Tl  «<  i.*  nii-lo  H  - 
IK'dition.    The  Frev.Jii  vp*  v'  >  wtuch  i ; 


The  ncciirry  of  the  Bny  of  Seven  THlnnda  Is  famed  for  Hk  wild  henuty  nnd  weird 
dcKolution.  Tlie  luiy  Im  7  M.  lon^',und  Ih  hlieltered  l)y  tlie  inlnnrls  nnd  ii  uinuntalnouH 
pronioiitorv  on  tlie  W,  The  ininiediiite  nhore  in  a  tine  tinndy  heach.  liac  k  of  wiiich 
lire  Iroad  lowlands,  nnd  "  the  two  panillel  rnnnes  of  mountiins,  which  add  m  niurh 
to  the  lieiiuty  of  the  dintant  neiiery  of  this  bay,  loolc  like  Iuiro  and  Impenetralilo 
Imrriers  lielwren  tlie  eonst  and  the  howling  wild<rnes»  beyond  them."'  In  the  .'iprin;^ 
and  autumn  thirt  bay  is  vicited  by  myriads  of  durks,  p-ese.  brant  and  other  wild 
fowl,  and  the  fialmon-tishiiin  In  the  adjaeent  sfreiinis  is  of  meat  v,.lue.  The  (irrui 
livii.r  Is  the  lonie,st  of  tlie  .S'Ven  I^lands,  n-aehinn  an  altitude  of  7(K>  ft  above  the 
H'n,  and  eomuiandliiK  a  broad  and  ma};nifieent  view.  There  are  about  iiW  iiihab- 
iuints  here,  a  larRe  proportion  of  whom  are  Indians  who  arc  enKH(;>'d  in  the  fur- 
tnide.  Oil  Carrouaet  Island  is  a  fixed  liglit,  1*J&  ft.  above  the  Bca,  which  is  visiblo 
for  20  M. 

From  Carrousel  Island  to  tho  St.  Margnrct  River  it  is  8  M. ;  to  tlie 
Cuwco  Islands,  24;  to  Sproulo  Toint,  2H;  and  still  farther  W.  nro  tho 
Tcntocost  Hiver  and  Kiiglish  Point,  oiT  which  are  the  Egg  Islands,  bear- 
ing a  revolving  white  light,  which  warns  ofV  mariners  from  one  of  the  most 
dangerous  points  on  the  coast. 

Tn  the  spring  of  1711  the  Hrit'sh  ftovernment  sent  nf^inst  Quebec  15  men-of-wnr, 
under  Adudral  Sir  llovendcn  v'alker,  and  40  transports  containing  5,000  veteran 
foiJiers.  During  a  ternble  A^lgu^t  storm,  while  they  were  ascending  tho  Uulf  of 
J(t.  Lawrence,  the  fleet  drove  jiowp  .  u  the  Kjrg  Islands.  The  frigates  were  saved 
irom  the  sliojds,  but  8  tran^,.  ••c^j  .\<n  wrecked,  with  l,.'k!3  men  on  board,  and 
''884  brave  fellows,  who  h  d  jn  sed  ;  r.thless  through  the  sanguinary  battles  of 

I  erished  miserably  on  the  desolate  shores 
Htisthe  cause  of  the  total  failure  of  tlie  ex- 
ted  the  Isles  after  Walker's  disaster  "  found 
the  wrecks  of  8  large  »c  .e)<,  i.*nin  Vih  .  i  the  cannon  and  best  articles  had  been  re- 
moved, and  nearly  ij;^J^  ;-'.'■■'■■  r~  dr  >vned,  and  their  bodies  lying  along  the  shore. 
They  rei'ognized  among  them  t«Ci  whole  coin]ianie8  of  the  Queen's  (iuards,  dij*- 
tingulshed  by  their  red  coats,  and  several  S<'otcli  fandlies,  intended  as  settlers  in 
Canada,"  among  thcni  seven  women,  all  clasping  each  other's  hands.  The  regi- 
ments of  Kainc,  Windrcsse,  .Seymour,  and  Clayton  were  nearly  annihilated  in  this 
wreck.  "  A'lie  Freneli  colony  could  not  but  recognize  a  Providence  which  watched 
singularly  over  its  preservation,  and  which,  not  sitislled  with  rescuing  it  from 
the  greatest  danger  it  had  yet  run,  had  enriciied  It  with  the  spoils  of  un  enemy 
w  hoin  it  had  not  had  the  pains  to  conquer  ;  heDce  they  rendered  ilim  most  heart- 
felt thanks."    (Charlevoix.) 

Beyond  the  hamlet  on  Caribou  Point  nnd  the  deep  bight  of  Trinity  Bay 
U  Point  de  Monts  (or,  as  some  say,  Point  atix  Demom),  280  M.  from  Que- 
bec. There  is  n  powerful  fixed  light  on  this  promontory.  8  M.  beyond  is 
Goflbmt,  with  its  fur-trading  post;  nnd  9  M.  farther  W.  is  Cape  St.  Nicho- 
las. 18  M.  from  the  cape  is  Manicoungan  Point,  20  M.  W.  of  which  is  tho 
great  Indian  trading-post  at  the  Bersimif  Jiiver,  where  700  Indians  liavo 
their  headqtuirters;  thence  to  Cape  Colombier  it  is  11^  M.;  and  to  tho 
church  nnd  fort  nt  Port  Neuf  it  is  12  M.  Point  Millo  Vaches  is  opposite 
Biquette,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  near  the  SauU  de 
Mouton,  a  fall  of  80  ft.  There  arc  several  settlements  of  French  Catholic 
farmers  alone  the  shore.  At  Les  Escoumaina  there  are  500  inhabitants 
and  considerable  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber  are  shipped.  Tho  const 
is  of  granite,  steep  and  bold,  and  runs  S.  W.  16  M.  to  PttitQ  JBergeronne, 
•whence  it  is  6i  M.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sagucnay  IJiver. 


234      Jioutc  05. 


ANTICOSTI. 


..n 


65^   AnticoBtl 

Tho  Island  of  Anticostl  lies  in  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lfiwrcnco  River,  nn«l 
is  118  M.  lonjif  nnd  31  M.  wide.  In  1871  it  had  about  80  inhabitants,  in 
charge  of  tlic  government  lights  and  stations,  and  also  60  acres  of  clearcil 
land  nnd  3  horses,  i'ox  River  is  60  M.  distant;  tho  Mingan  Islands,  30  M. ; 
and  Quebec,  about  450  M.  The  island  has  lately  been  tho  scene  of  tho 
operations  of  tho  Anticosti  Land  Coinpar.y,  which  designed  to  found  hero 
n  new  Prince  Kdward  Island,  covering  these  peat-plains  with  prosperous 
farms.    The  enterprise  has  as  yet  met  with  but  a  limited  success. 

Anticosti  has  some  woodlands,  but  is  for  tho  most  part  covered  with 
black  peaty  bogs  and  ponds,  with  broad  lagoons  near  the  sea.  The  bogs 
resemble  those  of  Ireland,  and  the  forests  arc  composed  of  low  and  stunted 
trees.  The  shores  arc  lined  with  great  piles  of  driftwood  nnd  the  frag- 
ments of  wrecks.  There  are  many  be:\rs,  otters,  foxes,  and  martens;  also 
partridges,  geese,  brant,  teal,  and  all  manner  of  aquatic  fowl.  Tho  months 
of  July  and  August  arc  rendered  miserable  by  the  presence  of  immense 
swarms  of  black  flies  and  mosquitoes,  bred  in  the  swamps  nnd  bogs. 
Largo  whales  are  seen  off  these  shores,  and  the  early  codfish  are  also  fmind 
here.  Fine  limestone  and  marble  occur  in  several  places;  and  nitirl  ami 
peat  are  found  in  vast  quantities.  There  are  lighthouses  nt  S.  \Y.  Point, 
S.  Point  (and  a  fog- whistle),  W.  Point  (and  an  alarm-gun),  and  Heath's 
Point.  The  government  has  established  supply-huts  along  the  shores 
since  the  terrible  wreck  of  tho  Granicus,  on  tho  S.  E.  point,  when  the  crew 
reached  the  shore,  but  could  find  nothing  to  eat,  and  were  obliged  to  devour 
each  other.    None  were  saved. 

In  1()90  ono  of  Fir  William  Piiipps's  troop-ships  was  wrecked  on  Anticont!,  durinj; 
the  rotroat  from  Quebec,  timl  but  5  of  its  people  survived  tho  winter  on  tlic  if<lan*i. 
AVIien  tlie  ice  broke  up,  tliese  bravo  fellows  started  in  a  row-boat  for  Boston,  900  M. 
distant ;  and  after  a  pxxsagc  of  44  ilays  they  reached  their  old  homo  in  safety.  The 
iHlaud  was  granted  in  1*591  to  the  Sleur  .Jolict,  who  en-cted  a  fort  liero,  but  waa  soon 
plundered  and  ejected  l)y  tlie  KnRliHh.  In  1H14  II.  H.  M.  friRato  Leopard,  60,  tho 
same  vcskjI  whicli  captured  tho  U.  S.  frigate  Chesapeake  was  lost  hero. 

"  The  danRerous,  desolate  shores  of  Anticosti,  ricti  in  wrecks,  accursed  in  human 
suffering.  This  hideous  wilderness  has  been  the  grave  of  hundreds;  by  tho  slowest 
andgliastliestof  deaths  they  died,  —  sUirvation.  Washed  ashore  from  maimed  and 
sinking  ships,  saved  to  destruction,  they  drag  their  chilled  and  i)attered  limbs  up  tho 
rougii  rocks ;  for  a  moment,  warm  with  hope,  they  look  around  with  eager,  strain- 
ing eyes  forslielter,  — and  there  is  none ;  tho  failing  sight  darkens  on  hill  and  forest, 
forest  and  hill,  and  bluck  despair.  Hours  and  days  waste  out  tlie  lamp  of  life,  until 
at  length  tho  withered  skeletona  have  only  strength  to  die.'*    (Euox  WA,aDUBiON.) 


^- 


•a.' 


>    ( 


River,  nnil 
bitnnts,  in 
of  cleared 
uls,  30  M.; 
eno  of  tho 
found  hero 
:)rosperou3 
■s. 
ercd  witli 

The  bogs 
id  stunted 
1  tho  fnig- 
tens;  also 
ho  months 

immense 
and  bops, 
also  fuund 

mud  and 

>V.  Point, 

d  Heath's 

he  shores 

1  tho  crew 

to  devour 


5stl,  durini; 
the  ifilanil. 
ton,  900  M. 
ifety.  Tho 
>t  wan  soon 
irrf,  60,  tho 

in  human 
tho  slowest 
aimed  and 
mbs  HP  tho 
Bfer,  strain- 
and  forest, 
f  life,  until 
aBumON.) 


ft).' 


PROVI^X^E   OF   QUEBEC. 


Quebec  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  tho  Province  of  Ontario,  on  the  N.  by 
the  wilderness  towards  Hudson's  Bay,  on  the  K.  by  Maine,  Labrador,  and 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  S.  by  New  Lrunswick,  New  Kng- 
land,  and  New  York.  It  covers  210,020  square  miles,  and  its  scenery  is 
highly  diversified  and  often  mountainous,  contrasting  strongly  with  the 
innucnse  prairies  of  Ontario.  The  stately  river  St.  Lawrence  traverses  tho 
Province  from  S.  W.  to  N.  K.,  and  receives  as  tributaries  the  large  rivers 
Ottawa,  Richelieu,  St.  Maurice,  and  Saguenaj'.  The  Kastern  Townships 
arc  famed  for  their  fine  liighland  scenery,  amid  which  arc  beautiful  lakes 
and  glens. 

The  Province  of  Quebec  has  1,191,510  inhabitants  (census  of  1871),  tho 
vast  majority  of  whom  are  of  French  descent  and  language.  1,019,850  of 
the  people  arc  Roman  Cathjlics,  and  the  laws  of  education  arc  modified  to 
suit  tho  system  of  parish-schools. 

The  Dominion  of  Canada  is  ruled  by  a  Governor-General  (ap|)ointed  by 
the  British  soveroign)  and  Privy  Council,  and  a  Parliament  consisting  of 
81  senators  (24  each  from  Ontario  and  Quebec,  12  each  from  Nova  Scotia  and 
New  Brunswick,  and  9  from  P.  E.  Island,  Manitoba,  and  British  Columbia) 
and  207  members  of  tho  House  of  Commons.  There  is  one  member  for  each 
17,000  souls,  or  88  for  Ontario,  65  for  Quebec,  21  for  Nova  Scotia,  10  for  New 
Brunswick,  6  each  for  Prince  Kdward  Island  and  British  Columbia,  and  5 
for  Manitoba.  In  1872  the  debt  of  the  Dominion  was  $123,400,179,  most 
of  which  represents  internal  improvements.  There  are  30,144  Canadian 
militiamen,  with  a  military  school  at  Kingston;  and  tho  navy  consists  of 
8  armed  screw-steamers  (on  the  lakes  and  tho  GulO.  In  1600  Canada  had 
240,000  inhabitants;  in  1826,  581,920;  in  1851,1,842,205;  and  in  1S71, 
3,057,887,  —a  fifteon-fold  increase  in  70  years.  Between  1842  and  1872, 
831,108  emigrants  from  Great  Britain  entered  Canada ;  and  in  the  same 
period,  4,338,080  persons,  from  the  same  kingdom,  emigrated  to  the  United 
States.  In  1871  and  1872  the  exports  of  Canada  amounted  to  $  166,813,281, 
and  her  imports  to  $  194,050,594.  Her  chief  trade  is  with  Great  Britain 
and  the  United  States,  and  the  main  exports  are  breadRtufTs  and  tim- 
ber. In  1872  tho  Dominion  had  2,928  M.  of  railways,  which  had  cost 
$  163,553,000;  and  there  were  then  3,943  post-ofllces. 

The  first  European  explorer  who  visited  this  country  was  Jaques  Car- 


\l 


i  m 


i  '\ 


n 


ti 


23G 


TROVINCE  OF  QUEnEC. 


tier,  who  landed  at  Gaspo  in  1534,  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  site 
of  Mortreal  durhig  the  following  year.  Seventeen  years  later  the  ill-fato(l 
Roberval  founded  an  ephemeral  colony  near  Quebec,  and  thereafter  for 
over  half  t  century  Canada  was  unvisited.  In  1003  Chainplain  ascended 
to  the  site  of  Montreal,  and  Quebec  and  Montreal  were  soon  founded;  while 
the  labors  of  explorations,  missions,  and  fightinf^  the  Irocjuois  were  carricil 
on  without  cessation.  In  1029  Canada  was  taken  l)y  an  Kn<:;lish  Heet  under 
Sir  David  Kirke,  but  it  was  restorcil  to  Trance  in  1C3'2.  The  Company  of 
the  Hundred  Associates  was  founded  by  Cardinal  Richelieu  in  1027,  tn 
erect  settlements  in  La  Nouvelle  France,  but  the  darinj;  and  merciless  in- 
cursions of  the  Iro(juois  Indians  prevented  the  growth  of  the  colonies,  and 
in  1GG3  the  company  was  dissolved.  Finally,  after  they  had  exterminated 
the  unfortunate  Huron  nation,  the  Inxpiois  destroyed  a  part  of  Mon- 
treal and  many  of  its  people  (1089).  The  long  and  bitter  wars  between 
Canada  and  the  Anglo-American  colonies  had  now  commenced,  and  New 
York  and  New  Ijigland  were  ravaged  by  the  French  troops  anil  their  allied 
Indians. 

Naval  expeditions  were  sent  from  Hoston  against  Quebec  in  1690  ond 
l*'ll,  but  they  both  ended  disastrously.  Montreal  and  its  environs  were 
several  times  assailed  by  the  forces  of  New  York,  but  most  of  the  fighting 
was  done  on  the  line  of  Lake  Chanifilain  and  in  the  Maritime  Trovinccs. 
At  last  t'lese  outposts  fell,  and  powerful  British  armies  entered  Canada  on 
the  K.  ".ad  W.  In  1759  Wolfe's  army  captured  Quebec,  after  a  jtitched 
l)attle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham;  and  in  the  following  year  Montreal  was 
occui^'Cf'  by  Gen.  Amherst,  with  17,000  men.  The  French  trooj  wore 
sent  home;  and  in  1703,  by  the  Treaty  of  i'aris,  France  ce<lcd  t<  .Jreat 
Britain  all  her  immense  Canadian  domains.  There  wore  tlnvja  07,000 
French  people  and  8,000  Indians  in  the  Province. 

The  resident  population  was  conciliated  by  tolerance  to  their  religion 
and  other  liberal  measures,  and  refuse  1  to  join  the  American  Colonies 
when  they  revolted  in  1775.  The  army  of  (Jen.  Montgomery  took  Montreal 
and  the  adjacent  country,  but  the  Canadians  declined  either  to  aid  or  to 
oppose  the  Americans;  nnd  when  Arnold  was  defeated  in  his  attempt  to 
storm  QurLiCc,  the  Continental  forces  were  soon  driven  back  into  the 
United  States.  In  1791  the  Provinces  of  Upper  Canada  and  Lower  Canada 
were  formed,  in  order  to  Ftop  the  discontent  of  the  French  popidation,  who 
were  thus  separated  from  the  Knglish  and  Loyalist  settlement;  to  the  W. 
In  1791  representative  government  was  established,  and  in  1793  slavery 
vras  abolished.  The  War  of  1S12  was  waged  beyond  the  boundaries  of 
Lower  Canada,  except  during  the  abortive  attempt  of  the  Americans  to 
capture  Montreal.  In  1837  revolutionary  uprising-  occurred  in  various 
parts  of  Canada,  and  were  only  put  down  after  much  bloodshed.  In  1840 
the  two  Provinces  were  united,  aP^er  which  the  seigniorial  tenures  were 
abolished,  decimal  currency  was  adopted,  the  laws  were  codified,  and  other 


. 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


23: 


?o  to  the  silo 

the  ill-futod 

crcafter  for 

11  iiscciKlod 

iidctl;  while 

I  ere  carricil 

I  fk'ct  under 

oiiipany  of 

In  1027,  to 

lerciless  iii- 

)l<)iiies,  and 

terminated 

rt  of  Mon- 

rs  between 

I,  and  New 

tlieir  allied 


improvements  took  phicc.  The  capital,  whicli  had  been  shifted  from 
Kingston  to  Montreal,  and  then  to  Toronto,  was  established  by  the  Queen 
at  Ottawa  in  1860.  Tlio  Trench  and  Enj^lish  deputies  in  I'arlianiont  were 
still  at  odds,  ami  after  a  lon^'  wran-^le  in  18(34,  the  attention  of  the  country 
was  drawn  to  the  old  project  of  confederation,  whicii  was  at  last  realized 
in  1807,  and  Canada  (then  divided  into  Ontario  an<l  (^>uebec)and  the  ,\hiri- 
timo  Provinces  were  consolidated  into  the  Dominion  of  ('anai)A.  Since 
that  day  the  councils  of  the  Imperial  Government  have  manifested  u  de- 
sire to  give  independence  to  the  new  State;  and  the  Dominion,  endowed 
with  autonomic  powers,  has  made  rapid  advances,  buihlinf;  great  railways, 
bridges,  and  canals,  and  forwarding  internal  improvements.  Meantime 
Ontario  has  gaine<l  a  preponderating  power  in  the  national  councils,  and 
the  statesmen  of  Quebec  are  now  maturing  plans  for  the  re|)atriation  of 
the  500,000  French-Canadians  now  in  the  I'nited  States,  hoping  thereby  to 
restore  the  Province  of  Quebec  to  her  former  prc-cmiuuucu  und  to  popu- 
late her  waste  places. 


n  1G90  and 

irons  were 

he  fighting 

Provinces. 

Canada  on 

•  a  j)itchcd 

mtreal  was 

rooj     wore 

<1  t!     .Jreat 

h^'ii  G7,000 

3ir  religion 
n  Colonies 
k  Montreal 
3  aid  or  to 
attempt  to 
k  into  the 
•or  Canada 
lation,  who 
to  the  W. 
93  slavery 
ndaries  of 
icricans  to 
in  various 
.  In  1840 
ures  wcro 
,  and  other 


"  Like  a  virgin  Roddcss  in  a  priincTal  world,  Cann<la  fctill  walks  In  uncnnficinua 
tioauty  uiiiong  her  golUon  wonUi*  and  aluiiK  tbu  iiiari^iii  of  her  trucklers  streams, 
cat-hiiiK  liiit  >)roki>ii  glaiict'S  of  lu>r  r.tdiaiit  inajuHtv ,  as  mirrored  uii  their  hurface, 
and  scarcely  dreams  as  y^•t  of  thu  gloriouM  fulutu  awaitiug  her  iu  tUu  Ulyiiipuri  uf 
nutiunii.''  (Earl  or  DUFFERiN) 


"The  beggared  nohlo  of  tho  early  time  l)ooamo  a  sturdy  oouutry  gentleman; 
|M)or,  hut  not  wret<'lu;d  ;  ignor.iiit  of  hooks,  except  possihly  a  few  Hcraps  of  runty 
Latin  picked  up  iu  a  Jesuit  seliool  ;  hardy  as  the  liardiest  woodsmau,  yet  never  fur- 
getting  Ills  (piality  ^tX {ifHlilkomitif :  scrupulously  wearing  its  budge,  tho  swoni,  and 
copying  as  well  as  he  could  the  fashions  of  the  court,  which  glowed  on  his  vision 
inToss  the  sea  in  all  the  effulgence  of  Vc-rsailles,  aud  hcamed  with  retlect^Ml  ray  from 
tile  chateau  of  Quebec,  lie  was  at  home  among  his  tenants,  at  home  among  thu 
Indians,  and  never  more  at  home  than  when,  a  gnu  in  his  hanil  and  a  crucitix  on 
his  lireast,  he  took  the  war-path  with  a  crew  of  painted  savages  and  Krt'uchmen 
almost  as  wild,  and  pounced  like  n  lynx  from  the  forest  on  some  lonely  farm  or  out- 
l>ing  hamlet  of  New  England.  Ilow  New  Kngland  hated  him,  h-t  her  records  tell. 
The  r<>ddest  hlood-stn  aks  on  hvr  old  aiuials  murk  tho  track  of  tbo  t'auudiuu  gfiiltl- 
liomme.'^  (1'ahkman 

"  To  ft  traveller  from  tho  Old  World,  Canada  East  may  appear  like  a  new  coun- 
try, aud  Us  Inhahitauts  like  colonists  ;  hut  to  me,  coming  from  New  KigJaud 

it  app<>ared  as  old  as  Normamly  itself,  and  realiKeil  nuich  that  I  bad  heard  of 
Miiropo  and  the  Middle  Ages.  Even  the  names  of  humble  Canadian  villages  ulVected 
me  as  if  they  had  >N!eu  tlu>se  of  thu  renowned  cities  of  antii|uity.  To  lie  tuld  by  u 
h.iliitant,  when  I  asked  the  name  of  a  village  in  sight,  that  It  is  .S7.  Fenolr  or  .SV. 
Annf,  the  (iiianh'nn  Ai>i;rt  or  tho  llntif  Jom/i/i'x  ;  or  of  a  moiuitain,  that  it  was 
lic'aniif  or  St.  litjU'-intki- !  As  hchju  as  you  leavo  the  Stutes,  the.-e  saintly  uam«>s 
begin.  St.  John  is  the  llrst  town  you  stop  at,  and  thenceforward  (he  numes  of  the 
mountains  ai<d  streams  and  villages  n-el,  if  I  may  so  s|)eak,  with  the  intoxieatloii 
of  poetry, — Chamhli/,  Lnnaii'iiit,  I'ointe  aujr  Tninblis,  />«/-//ii»/(»»iy,  etc.,  ete.,  —  as 
if  it  needed  only  a  littlu  foreign  accent,  a  few  more  licjuiils  and  vowels  pendiancu  in 
tho  langu;ige,  to  make  us  Iwate  our  ideals  at  once,  1  hegan  to  dretun  of  I'rovt'Uci) 
and  tho  Troubadours,  and  of  places  and  things  which  have  no  cxibtenee  on  tho 
earth.  They  veiled  tho  Indian  and  the  iirlmitive  (orest,  and  tlie  wojkIs  toward  Hud- 
Hun's  Day  were  only  as  tho  forests  of  Irunco  and  (icrmany.  I  could  nut  at  unco 
bi-in'{  myself  to  beiievo  that  thu  iiihabltu-.its  who  pronounced  dally  thosu  bouutitul 
aud,  tu  nie,  signiilcant  names  leud  un  pruiuic  livuii  ua  wu  of  Now  Eiigbud. 


hi 

1 


5" 

i  ll    > 

.    ■      !. 

] 


>-i 


I 


238      Itoute  66. 


nCTOU  TO  QUEBEC. 


"  One  of  th(?  tributaries  of  the  St.  Anne  is  named  Zi  Rividre  de  la  Rose,  and  fur- 
ther east  are  La  Riviere  de  In  Blondelle  and  La  Riviere  de  la  Fr'ponne.  Tht'ir  very 
riviire  meanders  more  than  our  river [It  is]  a  more  western  and  wilder  Arca- 
dia, methinks,  than  the  world  has  ever  seen  ;  for  the  Greeks,  with  all  their  wood 
and  river  Kods,  were  not  so  qualified  to  name  the  natural  features  of  a  coiuitrj'  as 
the  a>KX\stors  of  these  French  Canadians  ;  and  if  any  people  had  a  right  to  substi- 
tute their  own  for  the  Indian  names,  it  was  they.  They  have  preceded  the  pioneer 
on  our  own  frontiers,  and  named  the  prairie  for  us."  (Tuobeau.) 


On  the  que:'tion  as  to  whether  the  Canadians  speak  good  French,  Pothcrie  says 
that  "  they  had  no  dialect,  which,  Indeed,  is  generally  lost  in  a  colony."  Charle- 
voix observed  (about  1720) :  "  The  French  language  is  nowhero  spoken  with  greater 
purity,  there  being  no  accent  perceptible."  Bougainville  adds:  "They  do  not 
know  how  to  write,  but  they  speak  with  case  and  with  an  accent  as  good  as  the 
Parisian."  Prof.  Silliman  says  that  they  speak  as  good  French  as  the  common 
Americans  speak  English. 

From  the  voluminous  work  of  M.  Rameau,  entitled  La  France  aux  Colonies  — 
Acadiens  et  Canndiens  (Paris,  1859),  we  learn  that  in  the  year  1920  the  valleys  of 
the  Saguenay,  Ottawa,  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence  shall  be  occupied  by  a  Franco- 
Canadian  nation  of  6,000,000  souls  ;  that  the  mournful  vices,  "  impoverishment  of 
intelligence,  and  corruption  of  manners,"  which  the  Anglo-American  race  in  the 
United  States  has  sulTered,  shall  bo  opposed  and  checked  by  the  fecund  genius  of  the 
French  race,  and  the  "  scientiiic  and  artistic  aptitudes  of  the  Canadians,"  emanathig 
continent-enlightening  radiance  from  the  walls  of  the  Laval  University  ;  that  the 
dissolute  barbarism  of  the  Americans  shall  be  ameliorated  by  the  sweet  intluenees 
of  the  "  Oreco-Latin  idea  '  of  the  F'ranco-Canadiaus ;  and  that  that  agricultural 
and  intellectual  people,  "  the  general  and  esteutial  principle  of  whose  material  and 
intellectual  power  is  in  their  religious  faitli  and  in  the  simplicity  of  their  m.anners," 
shall  profit  by  the  sad  experience  of  Old  France,  —  and  under  the  conservative  influ- 
ences of  a  social  aristocracy  shall  erect  a  New  France,  to  be  forever  illustrious  in  its 
culture  "  de  Vesprit,  la  modeslie  des  maiirs,  la  liberti  et  la  religion,"  < 

66.  Fictou  to  Quebec. — The  Coasts  of  Gaspe  and  the  Lower 

St.  Lawrence. 

This  voyage  is  full  of  interest  to  the  lover  of  fine  scenery,  and  leads  through  some 
of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  Provinces.  The  vessels  pass  the  lofty  highlands 
of  Nova  Scotia,  the  Acadian  districts  on  the  sandy  shores  of  New  Brunswick,  the 
stately  mountains  about  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  and  the  frowning  ridges  of  Gaspe.  Then 
comes  the  ascent  of  the  majestic  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  white  Freach  villages,  its 
Alpine  shores,  and  romantic  history,  terminated  by  the  quaint  mediaeval  towers  of 
Quebec,  "  the  Walled  City  of  the  North."  The  steamers  are  large  and  comfortable, 
and  are  quite  steady  in  ordinary  seasons.  The  cabin-tables  are  well  supplied,  and 
the  attendance  is  good.  There  is  but  little  danger  Irom  sea-sickness,  except  in  very 
breezy  weather  (s.e  also  page  3). 

This  route  is  served  by  the  vessels  of  the  Quebec  and  Gulf  Po-. '"  ^l£0»r  ship  Com- 
pany, the  Secret  and  the  Miramichi.  The  Georgia  formerly  phtd  Kt^wH'!  Pictou, 
Charlottetown,  Shediac,  and  Quebec,  but  she  was  wrecked  in  i  :»■•  const  of  7  Jo'ie  in 
January,  1875.  The  times  of  departure  are  liable  to  variatious  .  x  .hfc  ih'i.t  ic^vy 
cargoes  are  to  be  landed  or  shipped  at  any  of  the  por*".  The  follow  ,!g:  '.iuf-iabi.  •  's 
that  of  the  Q.  &  G.  P.  S.  S.  Co.  for  1874  ;  further  particulars,  ar  '  fie  i^tails  of 
changes  (if  there  should  beany)  may  be  obtained  from  the  cum^  ..y'    .-gents. 

Pa8.xengers  leave  Halifax  by  railway  Mond.ay  morning,  and  conne>  i  with  the 
steamship,  which  leaves  Pictou  at  7  A.  M.  on  Tuesday.  By  leaving  T''  .  ohn  on 
the  Tuesday-morning  train,  the  boat  is  met  at  Shediac,  which  she  e»i('  r  it  5  P.  m. 
on  Tuesday,  leaving  at  7  P.  M.  She  reaches  Chatham  at  0  a.m.  on  ^\Vaue.eday,  and 
leaves  at  7  A.  M. ;  Newcastle  at  7.30  A.  K.,  Wednt'sday,  leaving  at  8  a.  m.  ;  Dalhousio 
at  1  A.  M.,  Thursd.ay,  leaving  at  4  A.  M. ;  Paspebiac  at  9  a.  m.,  Thursday,  leaving  at 
10  A.  M. ;  Perc6  at  4  p.  m.,  Thursday,  leaving  at  4.30  '.  M. ;  Gasp6  at  7  p.  m.,  Thurs- 
day, leaving  at  8  p.  M.  ;  Father  Point  at  7  P.M.,  Friday,  leaving  at  8  p.m.;  and  ar- 
rives at  Quebec  at  10  a.  m.,  ou  Saturday. 


aft 


<< 


ose,  and  far- 

Their  very 

wilder  Arca- 

l  their  wood 

country  as 

lit  to  substi- 

tlie  pioneer 


otheric  says 
IT."  ("harfc- 
witli  greater 
'licy  do  not 
good  as  the 
^he  common 


e  Colonies  — 
0  valleys  of 
y  a  Franco- 
rishnicnt  of 
race  in  the 
;eniu8  of  tlio 
'  emanating 
y  ;  that  the 
t  influences 
agricultural 
naterial  and 
r  manners," 
vative  influ- 
trious  in  its 


e  Lower 


rough  some 
y  highlands 
inswick,  the 
aspe.  Then 
villages,  its 
»1  towers  of 
•omfortable, 
ipplied,  and 
cept  in  very 

"Ship  Com- 
(H';;  Pictou, 
of  7  Jc'~ie  in 
ih'it  i-v»\y 
,l\n--\ iiV\:-:  's 
i  litails  of 
'  .fgents. 
t  with  the 
r.  .'ohn  on 
:  ii  5  p.  M. 
lesday,  and 
;  Dalhousio 
,  leaving  at 
.  M.,  Thurs- 
I. ;  and  ur- 


CARLETON. 


Itoiite  66.       239 


Quebec  'o  Pictou.  —  The  steamship  leaves  Quebec  at  2  v.  m.,  on  Tuesday ;  Father 
Point,  6  A.M.,  Wednesday;  Oasp6,  4  a.m.,  Thursday;  Perce,  8  A.M.,  Thursday? 
Paspebiac,  3  p.  m.,  Thursday;  Dalhousie,  9  p.  m.,  Thursday  ;  Chatham,  4  p.m.,  Fri- 
day ;  Newcastle,  6  P.M.,  Friday  ;  Shediac,  3  a.m.,  Saturday  (morning  tniin  to  St. 
John) ;  and  arrives  at  Pictou  at  1  p.  m.,  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  afternoon 
train  to  Halifax. 

FareSt  —  (Meals  are  included  in  the  lst-cla.ss  fares, hut  the  state-rooms  are  extra. 
The  2d-cia.s3  fares  are  without  meals.)  Halifax  to  Shediac,  !$  5  or  -S  3.u0 ;  to  Chat- 
ham or  Nc^vcastle,  ^  8.50  or  !$  4.50 ;  to  Dalhousie,  %  11.50 or  ^G  ;  to  Paspebiac,  S  12.50 
or  S  6.50  ;  to  Perce  or  Gasp^,  $  12  or  §  7 ;  to  Father  Point,  iif;  17  or  $  8 ;  to  Quebec, 
§17.50  or  .5  850. 

Qufhec  to  Halifax.  —  Quebec  to  Father  Point,  .$  4  or  .«!  2 ;  to  Gasp^,  $  10  or  S 4 ; 
to  Perce,  §  11  or  $  4.25 ;  to  Paf  pebiac,  J$  13  or  1?  5 ;  to  Dalhou.'^ie,  §  14  or  $  5.50  ;  to 
Cliatham  or  Newcastle,  .S  14  or  §5  ;  to  Shediac,  815  or  .^  7  ;  (to  St.  John  by  rail, 
§  16  or  !»  8) ;  to  Pictou,  %  16  or  !$  7.50 ;  to  Halifax,  *  17.50  or  » 8.50. 

Dlstancefsi.  —  Pictou  to  Shediac^  120  M. ;  to  Cliatham,  225;  Newcastle,  230; 
D.alhousic,423;  Paspebiac,  478;  Perc6,  649;  Gasp^,  578  ;  Father  Point,  846 ;  Que- 
bec, 1,028. 

Halifax  to  Pictou,  see  Route  31.    St.  John  to  Shediac,  see  Route  14. 

After  leaving  Pictou  Harbor,  the  steamship  passes  out  between  Caribou 
Island  and  Pictou  Island  (see  also  page  175),  and  enters  the  Northumber- 
land Strait.  On  the  S.  ure  the  dark  highlands  of  Pictou  County,  among 
whose  glens  are  scattered  settlements  jf  Scottish  people.  10-12  Jil.  N.  arc 
the  low  hills  of  Prince  Kdward  Island.  The  deep  bight  of  Tatamagoucho 
Bay  (see  page  81)  is  passed  about  35  M.  W.  of  Pictou,  and  the  blue  and 
monotonous  line  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  may  be  seen  in  the  S.,  in  very  clear 
^_,,  weather.  Beyond  Bale  Verto  the  steamer  passes  through  tlio  narrow 
part  of  the  Strait  between  Cape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tormentine,  and  the 
low  red  shores  of  Prince  P^dward  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.  The  course  is 
next  laid  along  the  level  Westmoreland  coast  (see  page  59),  and  the  har- 
bor of  Shediac  is  entered. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  N.  Shore  of  New  Brunswick  is  described  in 
Route  15  (page  60).  It  is  to  be  remembered,  liovrever,,  that  tho  Gulf- 
Ports  steamships  do  not  stop  at  Richibucto,  Bathurst,  r.{  Campbcllton. 
Having,  then,  described  the  coast  from  Shediac  to  Dalhousie  in  Route  15, 
the  present  route  will  follow  the  shores  of  the  great  Gaspesian  peninsula. 

As  the  steamship  leaves  tho  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  the  red  sand- 
stone cliffs  of  Mafiuacha  Point  are  passed,  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  the 
broad  l^iroon  of  Carlcton  Road.  The  beautiful  peak  of  *  Tracadiegash 
is  now  approached,  and  after  passing  the  light!iouse  on  Tracadiegash 
Point,  the  white  village  of  Carletou  is  seen  on  the  Quebec  shore.  This 
place  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  a  convent,  and  is  snugly  situated 
under  tho  lee  of  the  mountains,  near  a  bay  which  is  secure  during  gales 
from  the  N.  and  E.  Immense  scliools  of  herring  visit  these  shores  during 
tiie  springtim.e,  at  the  spawning  season,  and  are  caught,  to  be  used  as  food 
and  for  fertilizing  the  ground.  The  village  is  enterprising  and  active,  and 
is  inhabited  chietly  by  Acadian?.  The  steamer  stops  off  the  port  if  there 
are  any  passengers  or  freight  to  be  landed. 


V 


240      Route  66. 


PASPEBIA(?. 


9   '     i\ 


!>''■ 


"  Carlcton  i.s  a  pretty  town,  to  which  a  littln  steamer  sometimes  runs  from  Dal- 
houHic,  rendering  the  sahiion  streams  in  tlie  vicinity  quite  accessible.  When  tlio 
pun  Biiines,  its  wliite  cottaj^es,  nesthnj?  at  tlic  foot  of  the  majestic  Tracadiegasli 
Mountain,  glisten  like  snow-llakcs  apaiiist  the  somhrc  Imckpround,  and  gleam  out 
in  lovely  contrast  with  the  clouds  that  cap  the  summit  of  this  outpost  sentinel  of 
the  Alleghany  range."    (Uallock.) 

The  steamer  now  passes  out  upon  "the  unduhiting  and  voluptuous  Bay 
of  Chaleur,  full  of  long  folds,  of  languishing  contours,  Avhlch  the  wind 
caresses  with  fan-like  breath,  and  whose  softened  shores  receive  the  flood- 
ing of  the  waves  without  a  munuur."  On  the  N.  is  Cascapediac  Bay,  on 
■whose  shores  arc  the  Aradian  and  Scottisii  hamlets  of  Maria  and  New 
Richmond,  devoted  to  farming  and  tluj  fisheries.  The  rugged  peaks  of  the 
Tracadiegasli  range  are  seen  in  fine  retrospective  views. 

Kew  Carlisle  is  near  the  mouth  of  tlie  Grand  Bonaventure  River,  and  is 
the  capital  of  Bonaventure  County.  It  has  400  inhabitants,  and  is  en- 
gaged in  the  fisheries,  having  also  a  few  summer  visitors.  The  churches 
and  court-house  occupy  a  ccj'ispicuous  position  on  the  high  bank  which 
overlooks  the  bay.  This  town  was  founded  in  1785  by  American  Loyal- 
ists, who  received  from  the  government  one  year's  provisions,  lands,  seeds, 
and  farming-implements.  !?  100,000  was  expended  in  establishing  this 
settlement  and  Douglastown. 

Faspebiao  {Clarke's  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  250  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  X.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  440  M.  from  Quebec.  Its  harbor  is 
formed  by  a  fine  beach  of  sand  3  M.  long,  curving  to  tlie  S.,  and  forming 
a  natural  breakwater  against  the  sea  during  easterly  gaits.  The  church 
und  houses  of  the  village  arc  built  above  the  red  cUfis  of  the  shore,  and 
present  the  neat  and  orderly  appearance  of  a  military  post.  On  the  lino 
of  the  beach  are  the  great  white  (and  red-trimmed)  storehouses  and  ship- 
yards of  Charles  Robin  &  Co.  and  Le  Boutillier  Brothers,  the  mercantile 
establishments  which  sustain  the  place. 

Robin  &  Co.  is  an  ancient  house  which  dates  from  1768,  and  has  its  headquarters 
at  the  Isle  of  Jersey,  olT  the  coast  of  France.  Paspebiac  was  settled  in  176G  by  Charles 
Itobin,  who  est.'ihiished  here  a  large  fishing  station.  In  June,  1778,  the  place  was 
taken  by  two  American  privateers,  which  carried  away  the  vessels  Hope  and  Bee. 
The  whole  fleet  was  soon  afterward  cai)tured  by  II.  II.  M.  frigates  Huntfrand  Piprr, 
but  Itoliin  was  forced  to  pay  such  heavy  salvage  that  it  ruined  his  business.  In 
1783  he  came  back  here  under  French  colors,  und  in  20  years  accumulated  a  great 
fortune.  The  firm  of  Charles  Kobin  &  Co.  is  now  tlu>  most  powerful  on  all  these 
coasts,  and  keeps  large  Hects  emj)loyed,  supporting  numerous  villages  from  7  wealthy 
establislunents.  The  heads  of  the  firm  live  in  Jerst>y,and  their  officers  and  man- 
agers on  this  const  are  forced  by  rule  tf»  lead  a  life  of  celibacy.  This  company  e;n- 
I'loys  750  men,  besides  17  vessels  and  151  sailors  ;  and  the  LcBoutilliers  have  580 
men  and  15  vessels.  They  export  vnx*  ((uantities  of  fish  and  oil  to  the  West  Indies 
und  the  .Mediterranean,  supplying  their  Canadian  posts,  in  return,  with  all  sieeded 
jiroducts  of  other  coinitrics  PasjHOiiac  nceives  S1"0,(00  worth  of  goods  yearly, 
and  exi)ort9  .'s;,']()0,U(l(t  worth  offish.  The  Wst  fish  is  .^-nt  to  the  Mediterranean  in 
hulk,  tlie  second  grade  goes  in  tubs  to  IJra/.il,  and  the  poorest  is  shipped  in  ca^ks 
to  the  West  Indies.  The  Jeney  fle<>t  reacbt's  J'asjM'biae  early  in  May,  M' 'uds  the 
summer  fishin.i  in  the  bay  and  Oiilf,  and  returns  in  necen\ier.  The  Anioriean  mar- 
ket is  suj)plieu  by  th«' (  ape-Ann  fleet  in  these  waters;  and  the  proceeds  of  the  au- 
tunnial  months  are  sold  in  Cpper  Canada.  The  annual  viil.l  of  the  Ilav  of  Chaleur 
is  estiniatea  at  20,1)00  iiuiutals  of  dry  codfish,  COO  quintals  of  haddock,  3,C00  bar- 


P 


CAPE  DESPAIR. 


noiUe  GG.      241 


uns  from  Dal- 
e.  When  tho 
Tracadiegiish 
ami  gleam  out 
3st  sentinel  of 


nptuous  Bny 
ch  the  wind 
ive  the  flood- 
(liac  Bay,  on 
ria  and  New 
peaks  of  tho 

Kiver,  and  is 
s,  and  is  er- 
riie  churches 
I  bank  ■which 
jrican  Loyul- 
,  Umds,  seeds, 
iblishing  this 

s,  situated  on 
Its  harbor  is 
,,  and  forming 
The  church 
:he  shore,  and 
.  On  the  lino 
uses  and  ship- 
he  mercantile 


its  headquarters 
1766  by  Charles 
8,  the  place  was 
Hope  and  Bee. 
unler&nd  Piprr, 
is  business.     In 
imulated  a  great 
■ful  on  all  tlK'80 
»s  from  7  wealthy 
ifficers  and  man- 
iiis  company  cin- 
itilliers  have  f)80 
I  the  West  Indies 
with  all  5iocdcd 
of  goods  yearly, 
•loditerranenn  in 
shipped  in  cahks 
May,    r 'nds  the 
e  American  mar- 
•occcds  of  the  au- 
(!  Hav  of  Chuleur 
ddock,  3,C00  bar- 


rels of  herring,  300  barrels  of  salmon,  and  15,000  gallons  of  cod-oil.  The  flsheries 
of  the  bay  and  Gulf  are  valued  at  $  bOO.OOO  a  year,  and  employ  1,500  sail  of  vessels 
and  18,000  men. 

In  January  and  February  the  thermometer  sometimes  sinks  to  25°  below  zero 
and  the  bay  is  overhung  by  dark  masses  of  "  frost  smoke.''     In  this  season  tho 
Aurora  IJorealis  is  seen  by  night,  illuminating  the  whole  northern  horizon  with 
steady  brilliance.    In  July  and  August  the  thermomctur  ranges  from  66"  to  106°. 
and  the  air  is  tempen-d  by  fresh  sea-breezes. 

The  name  Paspebiac  means  "broken  banks,"  and  the  inhabitants  arc  called 
Paspy  Jacks  or  Pospillots.  Many  of  tho  bits  of  agate  aod  jas})er  called  "  Gasp<J  j)eb- 
bles '"  are  found  on  this  shore  afU;r  the  gales  of  siu-iiig  and  autuuin,  and  are  sent  to 
the  jewellers  of  London  and  Quoljoc.  It  is  supposed  that  they  come  from  the  con- 
glomerate rocks  on  the  Restigouchc  Iliver. 

Beyond  Pispebiac  are  the  shores  of  Hope,  on  which  immense  masses  of 
caplin-fish  f  re  tlu'own  up  every  spring.  Tiiey  are  shovelled  into  wagons 
by  the  farmjrs  and  are  used  to  fertilize  the  land.  The  next  point  of  in- 
terest is  the  deep  bay  of  Port  Daniel,  a  safe  and  well-sheltered  haven,  on 
whose  W.  shore  is  a  remarkable  hill,  400  ft.  high.  Near  the  fishing- 
village  up  the  harbor  are  deposits  of  oil-bearing  shale.  The  steamer  soon 
passes  Point  Maquereau  (wiiich  some  consider  the  N.  portal  of  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur),  Avith  Point  Miscou  on  the  S.  E. 

At  midnight  on  Oct.  15, 1838,  the  ship  Colhorne  went  ashore  on  Point  Maquereau, 
and  was  soon  broken  to  pieces.  Her  ci-cw,  consisting  of  42  men,  was  lost.  Tho 
cargo  was  composed  of  silks,  wines,  silver-plate,  and  siH.'(ie,  and  was  valued  at 
over  $  400,000.    The  wreckers  of  Gaspti  recovered  rich  treasures  from  the  wreck, 

Newport  is  G  M.  beyond  Point  Maquorcau,  and  is  inii:<i)itcd  by  200  Aca- 
dians,  who  are  devoted  to  the  fisheries  and  to  the  pursuit  of  the  vast  flocks 
of  wild  fowl  which  resort  to  these  shores  during  the  spring  and  autumn. 
Great  and  Little  Pabos  are  seaside  hamlets,  4  aiul  8  jj.  farther  E.  4  M. 
beyond  is  Grand  Itircr,  a  large  Acadian  village  clustered  about  the  fish- 
ing-establishment of  Robin  &;  Co.  It  is  7  M.  from  this  point  to  Capo 
Despair. 

Cape  Despair  was  named  by  the  French  Cap  d'Expoir,  or  Capo  Hope,  and  the 
present  name  is  either  an  Anglicized  pronunciation  of  this  French  word,  or  else  was 
given  in  memory  of  the  t(MTii)le  disaster  of  1711.  During  that  year  Queen  Aiine  isent 
a  great  fleet,  with  7,000  soldiers,  with  orders  to  capture  Queliec  and  occ-upy  ('anuda. 
Tiie  fleet  was  under  Admiral  Sir  Ilovonden  Walker,  and  the  army  was  cuiiimandcd 
by  Gen.  Hill.  Duri)ig  a  black  fog,  on  the  22d  of  August,  a  violent  storm  arose  and 
scattered  the  fleet  in  all  directions,  luu'ling  8  large  ships  on  the  terribU'  ledges  of 
Iv.'g  Island  (see  page  23;>)  and  Capi^  Dt^spair,  whcra  tlicy  were  lost  with  all  on  board. 
Fragments  of  the  wrecks,  called  Le  Naufrmxe  Ani^lam,  were  to  be  seen  along  tho 
shores  until  r  recent  date ;  and  there  was  a  wild  sujterstition  among  the  flslienneii 
to  the  eTcct  that  sometimes,  when  the  sea  was  <|iiiet  and  calm,  vast  white  waves 
would  roll  inward  from  the  Gulf,  bearing  a  pluintom  ship  crowded  with  men  in 
ancient  military  costumes.  An  oflilcer  st:inds  on  the  bow,  with  a  white-dud  woniuu 
oil  his  left  arm,  and  as  the  maddened  surge  sweeps  the  doomed  slii])  on  with  light- 
ning speed,  a  tremendous  criu'h  ensues,  the  do.ir,  agoniztsd  cry  of  a  wtmian  swells 
over  the  great  voice  of  despair,  —  and  naught  is  seuu  but  the  black  clilfs  and  the 
level  sea. 

Just  beyond  Cape  Despair  i?  the  pro.spcrous  fishing-station  of  Cape  Core, 
9  M.  from  Pcrcd.  Tlie  traveller  should  now  be  on  the  lookout  for  tho 
Pcrcd  Rock  and  Bonaventuro  Island.  The  steamer  runs  in  between  the 
Kock  and  the  Island,  atfording  fine  view.s  of  both. 


"••fwili 


I  I 

« 


242      Iloule  CG. 


I'ERCE. 


-1 


I 


i 

It  "I 


r  1 


h 


N 


flr      t 


f         I 


Tho  *  Perc6  Rock  is  288  ft.  liigli,  risinn;  with  precipitous  walls  directly 
from  the  waves;  and  is  alMMit  500  ft.  long.  Tl)is  citadcl-iiko  clilVis  pierced 
by  a  lofty  arch,  tliroiif^'h  winch  the  lonpr  levels  of  the  sea  are  visible.  Small 
boats  sometimes  traverse  tliis  weird  passage,  under  the  immense  Gothic 
nrch  of  rock.  There  was  formerly  another  tunnel,  near  the  outer  point  of 
tho  Rock,  but  its  roof  fell  in  witli  a  tremendous  crash,  and  left  a  great 
obelisk  rising  from  the  sea  beyond. 

The  summit  of  tho  Porcc  Rock  covers  about  two  acres,  and  is  divided  into  two 
grout  districts,  one  of  wliicli  is  iulmbited  by  tlie  kuIIh,  and  tlie  cuniioruiits  dwell  on 
tlie  other.  If  either  of  these  trespasses  on  tlie  otlier's  terrilory  (which  occurs  every 
flftt!eu  minuteH,  at  least),  a  hattlt;  ensues,  the  slirill  cries  of  luuidreds  or  thousands 
of  birda  rend  the  air,  f,'n'at  clouds  of  couibatauts  hover  over  tlie  plateau,  and  peace 
is  only  restored  by  the  retreat  of  the  invader.  When  the  contlict  is  l)etween  lar^c 
Hocks,  it  is  u  scene  worthy  of  clo.«e  notice,  and  sometimes  becomes  liigiily  exciting. 
The  Rock  is  at  right  angles  with  Mt.  Joli,  and  is  of  new  red  Hundstonc.  Tho  top  is 
covered  with  fine  grass. 

Many  years  ago  the  Rock  was  a.sccnded  by  two  fishermen,  and  the  way  onco  being 
found,  scores  of  men  clambered  up  by  ropes  and  curried  away  the  eggs  and  young 
birds,  finding  the  older  ones  so  tame  tliut  they  liad  to  be  lifted  off  the  nesta.  Tliis 
Tust  ttviary  would  have  lieen  dejjopulated  Ion  ',  ere  this,  but  tliat  the  Perce  magis- 
trates passed  a  law  forbidding  the  ascent  of  the  Rock.  There  are  numerous  quaint 
and  weird  legends  attached  to  this  place,  the  strangest  of  whiclj  is  tlnit  of  Le  Uinie 
.  iff  file  Ptrrir,  a  phantom  often  seen  over  the  plateau.  "  It  is  likely  that  the  founda- 
tion for  this  legend  can  Ijo  traced  to  the  vapory  or  cloud-lik<!  ai)pcarunce  the  vast 
Mocks  of  water-fowl  assume  wlien  seen  at  a  distance,  wheeling  in  every  fantastic 
sliupo  througli  the  uir,  previous  to  alighting  on  tlic  summit." 

The  harbor  of  Perce  is  very  insecure,  and  is  open  to  the  N.  K.  winds.  In 
earlier  times  this  port  was  called  Ln  Terre  (hs  Tciiipctes,  so  frequent  and 
disastrous  were  tlie  storms.  The  village  has  about  400  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  follow  the  shore-fislicries  in  small  boats.  The  town  is  visited 
every  spring  and  summer  by  hundreds  of  stalwart  Jersey  lads,  sent  out  by 
the  Kobins. 

PercC'  consists  of  South  Reach,  where  arc  the  Avhitc-and-red  buildings  of 
tho  Robin  establishment;  and  North  15each,  where  is  the  bulk  of  the  popu- 
lation, with  the  court-house,  jail,  and  Catholic  church.  The  two  sections 
are  separated  by  Mount  Joli,  a  lofty  promontory  which  here  approaches 
l'erc6  Rock.  The  Kpiscopal  church  is  a  cosey  little  Gothic  structure, 
accommodating  100  persons.  I'ercd  is  "  the  Klysium  of  fishermen,"  and 
hence  arises  a  circumstance  which  detracts  from  its  value  as  a  summer 
resort,  —  when  the  shore  is  covered  with  the  refuse  parts  of  codfish,  pro- 
ducing a  powerful  and  unpleasant  odor.  It  is  said  that  even  the  potatoes 
are  found  to  co:  "^..in  fish-bones. 

Back  of  Terce  is  the  remarkable  *  Mount  St.  Anne,  with  its  bold  and 
massive  square  top  rising  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  a  distance 
of  70  M.  over  the  water.  Tliis  eminence  may  be  ascended  without  great 
trouble,  and  from  its  summit  is  obtained  one  of  the  noblest  views  in  tho 
Maritime  Provinces.  It  includes  many  leagues  of  the  savage  mountain- 
land  of  Gasp^,  extending  also  along  tho  coast  from  the  I5ay  of  Clialeur  to 
Gasp^  Bay  and  Ship  Head.     But  the  murine  view  is  tho  most  attractive, 


l« 


> 


PERCfi. 


lioidc  GG.      243 


nils  directly 
UV  is  picrccHl 
siblc.  Smnll 
cuse  Gothic 
jter  point  of 
left  a  great 


iUcd  into  two 
runts  dwell  on 
>  occurs  every 
cir  thousands 
an, and  peace 
between  largo 
ighly  exciting. 
B.     i'lic  top  is 

my  once  being 
:gs  and  youn); 
e  nest«.  Tliis 
:»  I'erce  mapii*- 
merous  (|uaint 
it  of  Le  ilinie 
lat  the  founda- 
ranco  the  vast 
L'vcry  fantastic 


E.  ■winds.  In 
frequent  and 
bitants,  most 
wn  is  visited 
3,  sent  out  by 

1  buildings  of 
i  of  the  popu- 
two  sections 
c  approaches 
lie  structure, 
lermcn,"  and 
as  a  summer 
'  codfish,  pro- 
i  the  potatoes 

I  its  bold  and 
for  a  distance 
without  great 
;  views  in  the 
igc  mountain- 
of  Chaleur  to 
3st  attractive, 


>» 


and  pmhrncc?  many  loagties  of  the  Oulf  of  St.  Lawrenro,  with  its  great  fish- 
ing-dc^ts  and  stjuadrons  of  small  boats.  It  overlooks  Bonaventurc  and 
Voxc6  Hock.  A  fine  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  higliway  near  I'renih 
Town,  including  a  vast  area  of  the  Gulf,  the  bird-colonies  on  top  of  the 
Iiock,  I'oint  St.  Peter,  and  Darry  Head,  with  its  conspicuous  Catliolic 
church.  The  walk  around  the  mountain  to  the  corner  of  tin'  beach  is  full 
of  interest;  and  the  road  throjjgh  the  iiiils  to  Gaspd  is  picturesque,  though 
.,  rougli,  leading  by  Corny  Beach  and  through  a  profound  mountain-gorge. 
Mt.  St.  Anne  is  also  known  as  Mt.  Joli  and  the  Table  Houlante.  Upon  ita 
red  •sandstone  slopes  are  found  shell-fossils,  jasper,  agate,  and  fine  quartz 
crystals. 

*Bonaventure  Island  forms  a  great  natural  breakwater  before  the 
Perce  shores,  and  is  surrounded  by  deep  channels.  It  is  2^  M.  from  the  main- 
land, and  the  passage  around  the  island  in  a  snuill  boat  all'ords  a  |)leasant 
excursion.  Bonaventurc  is  2^  M.  long  and  i|  M.  wide,  and  is  a  vast  pile 
of  red  conglomerate  rock,  with  a  line  of  dill's  o-500  ft.  higii,  facing  the 
Gulf  over  50  fathoms  of  water.  Tliero  are  about  300  French  Catholics 
on  the  shoi'es,  connected  Avith  the  fishing-establishment  of  LeBoutillicr 
Brothers,  liic  island  was  formerly  the  property  of  Capt.  Duval,  a  bravo 
mariner  of  the  Channel  Isles,  who,  in  the  privateer  Vulture,  swept  the 
coasts  of  France  during  the  Napoleonic  wars.    He  is  buried  on  MoMut  Joli. 

'*  Porc6  is  one  of  the  curiositios  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  If  ono  shor'd  beliovc  all  the 
fantastic  stories,  to  whicii  tradition  adds  its  jjrestine,  that  rest  ulmut  this  formidable 
rocii,  thrown  forward  into  a  ceaselessly  surjjinj;  and  often  stormy  sea,  like  a  fearless 
defiance  from  the  shoal  to  the  abyss,  it  could  only  be  approached  with  a  mysterious 
dread  minj?led  with  an;;;uisli.  I'erce  proper  is  a  village  of  'JDO  firesides,  estaltlished 
ou  a  promontory  that  seems  to  guard  theSt.  Lawrence  :  this  proniontory  is  not  lofty, 
'  nor  does  it  compare  with  our  northern  mountains ;  but  it  is  wrinkled,  menacing, 

full  of  a  fierce  grandeur  ;  it  might  be  said  that  the  long  battle  with  the  ocean  has 
revealed  to  it  its  stn'nj!;th  and  the  power  which  it  liolds  fron>  (Jod  to  n-strain  tlio 
waves  from  passing  their  appointed  bounds.  It  is  an  arclier  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
covered  with  Iron,  immovublu  in  his  armor,  and  wlio  leccives,  invulnerable,  all  tho 
itlows  of  the  enemy.  In  face  of  the  Atlantic,  which  has  ix^aten  it  with  tempests 
through  thousands  of  centuries,  trembling  under  the  eternal  shower  of  the  waves, 
but  inunovablc  as  a  decree  of  heaven,  gloomy,  thoughtful,  enduring  without  mnr- 
nnir  the  wrathful  torrents  that  inundate  it,  l)cnt  downward  like  a  fallen  god  who 
c.xpiiites  in  an  eternity  the  arrogant  pride  of  a  single  day,  I'erce  tills  us  at  ouce  witli 
a  sorrowful  admiration  uud  a  hublimo  pity."    (Aktiiur  Uujes.) 

PercL^  was  visited  by  Carticr  in  1534,  and  thereafter  became  a  celebrated  fl.shing- 
?J  station  for  tlie  French  Heets.     The  coast  from  t'anso  to  Cape  Rosier  was  granted 

soon  after,  and  on  its  reversion  to  the  Crown  this  site  was  i)estowed  on  I)e  Fronsac, 
who  founded  a  permanent  village  liere,  while  over  500  transient  fishermen  made  it  a 
Fununer  rendezvous.  Bisliop  Laval  sent  the  Franciscans  here  in  ItiT'J  to  look  after 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  j)eople.  and  they  erecteil  a  chapel  at  l*<>rc6  and  tho 
Church  of  St  Claire  on  BonavcMiturc  Islanil.  In  KJUO  the  place  was  taken,  with  all 
its  vessels,  by  two  Uritisli  frigates,  wljose  crews  sacked  anil  burnt  all  the  liou.«es  at 
Perc6  and  Uonaventure,  destroyed  the  churches,  and  fired  150  gunshots  through 
the  picture  of  St.  I'eter.  In  1711  another  naval  attack  was  made  l»y  the  Hritish, 
and  the  French  ships  Ilirns  and  Vrrnmnilois  were  captured  in  the  liarbor.  In  1776 
a  desperate  naval  combat  took  place  olT  I'crcd  Uock,  between  the  American  pri- 
vateers that  had  dcv.istated  the  shores  of  tho  Hay  of  (.Jhaleur  and  the  liritish  war- 
vcsseU  li7>//  and  Diligence.  Two  of  the  American  vessels  were  sunk  within  cauuon- 
■•  shot  of  the  Uock. 


I 


r 


J 


'  i 


ij 


t 


244      Jloute  CO. 


GASP15. 


yi; 


Aftor  loiiviiijj  her  nnclionipc  off  Pcrc*'!  the  stonnnslnp  runs  N.  ncross  the 
opoiiinps  of  Mai  .lay,  and  at  i)  M.  out  passes  Point  i<t.  J^dev,  with  Its  fi.>h- 
iiiR-vil!aji;o.  Tlie  course  is  next  hiid  to  the  N.  W.  up  Gaspe  Hay,  with  tiio 
fatal  strand  of  the  Grand  Greve  on  tlie  r.  To  the  I.  is  Douf/lastoivn,  on 
the  bnyad  hi}];oou  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River  (famous  for  snhnoii). 
Tliis  town  was  hiid  out  by  Surveyor  Doujjias,  nnd  is  inluibitcd  by  Irish 
and  French  people.  The  vessel  now  steams  in  through  the  narrow  strait 
between  the  grand  natural  breakwater  of  Sandybeach  and  the  N.  shore, 
nnd  enters  the  *0a8p^  Basin.  The  J)ay  is  20  M.  long  and  6  M.  wide, 
nnd  the  basin  is  a  secure  and  land-locked  harbor  at  its  head.  As  the 
steamer  rounds  the  lighthouse  on  Sandybeach,  beautiful  views  arc  pre- 
sented of  the  broad  haven,  with  the  Kortli  River  Mts.  to  the  W. 

"  Tho  niomitnins  of  flaspi^  nrc  fair  to  bi'hold, 
^\°itli  their  tleckiiigs  of  tibuduw  and  gleuuiings  of  gold.'* 

OaBp6  (Gulf  Ifousc)  is  a  t^wn  of  800  inhabitants,  beautifully  situntcd 
between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  fronting  on  the  S.  W.  arm  of  tho 
b!»sin.  It  is  the  capital  of  tho  county  and  a  free  port  of  entry,  nnd  is  de- 
voted to  the  fisheries,  having  several  whaling-ships  and  a  large  fleet  of 
schooners.  The  (Jaspe  codfish  arc  preferred,  in  the  Mediterranean  ports, 
to  tho  Newfoundland  fish,  because  they  arc  not  so  salty.  Tho  chief 
establishment  here  is  that  of  the  LeBoutillicrs,  who  have  also  a  fine 
mansion  near  the  village.  Petroleum  has  been  found  here,  and  wells  7  -  800 
ft.  deep  have  been  sunk  by  two  companies.  Gaspd  is  visited  by  2-300 
city  people  every  summer,  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  scenery,  cool 
and  sparkling  air,  and  the  conveniences  for  yachting  and  for  fishing.  The 
York  and  Dartmouth  Rivers  empty  into  the  basin,  and  arc  famous  for 
their  game-fish.  Tho  adjacent  shores  arc  fertile  and  arc  thickly  settled, 
and  the  town  itself  is  rapidly  advancing  in  importance.  On  a  Iiill  to 
the  S.  is  Fort  Ramsay^  a  line  of  guns  among  tho  trees.  This  is  tho  first 
point  N.  of  Newcastle  where  the  steamer  is  moored  to  a  wharf.  Monthly 
mail-packets  run  from  Gaspd  to  Esquimaux  Bay,  on  tho  Labrador  coast 
(see  page  230). 

''  What  a  glorious  sight!  Imagine  a  bay  20  M.  long  ending  in  a  basin  where  a 
fleet  of  a  thousand  vessels  could  be  slwltcrt^d.  On  right  and  left,  two  rlvern,  which 
lire  parted  by  the  port,  sweep  arountl  tlic  umphitheatrical  shores ;  hills  hc^c  and 
there  of  savage  outline  or  covered  with  rounded  lawns  ;  below,  a  little  line  of  piers, 
flshlng-vessels,  schooners  and  sonic  br''?s  swinging  their  slackened  sails  in  the  li;,ht 
briH^a!  which  blows  froni  the  shores  ;  honiething  wild,  fresh,  and  vigorous,  like  the 
first  spring  of  a  great  creation.  The  Qaspi^  Hasin  has  traits  of  the  giant  and  of  tho 
infant ;  it  astonishes  and  charms ;  it  has  a  harmony  at  once  delicate  and  striking." 
(Arthur  Uuigs.) 

Tho  Indians  of  Oasp6  were  distinguLshrd,  in  a  remote  age,  for  unusual  advances 
in  civili;:ation.  They  knew  the  points  of  the  compa.s8,  traced  maps  of  their  country, 
observed  the  positions  of  the  stars,  and  worshipped  the  symbol  of  tho  cross.  They 
informed  the  early  .lesuit  missionaries  that  in  liir  distant  ages  tliey  were  scourged 
t>.V  a  fatal  p«!Stilence,  until  a  V(^nerable  man  luntled  on  their  shore,  and  arrested  tho 
progress  of  the  disease  by  erecting  the  cross  (see  PiiiRB  Leclbrc's  Nouvelle  Helation  de 


GASPL*". 


lioutc  GG.      245 


across  tlic 
th  its  n>li- 
',  with  the 
(ittincn,  on 
i  sahnoii). 
d  by  Irish 
rrow  strait 
3  N.  sliorc, 
>  M.  wide, 
1.  As  the 
8  arc  prc- 


ly  situated 
lu'tn  of  the 
and  is  de- 
i?o  fleet  of 
ican  ports, 
Tlic  chief 
xlso  a  flno 
ells  7 -800 
by  2-300 
nery,  cool 
ling.  The 
iimous  for 
dy  settled, 

a  liill  to 
3  the  first 

iVIonthly 
ador  coast 


sin  where  a 
iver<,  which 
Is  hce  and 
inc  of  pit'r«, 
in  tlic  li,',ht 
)us,  like  the 
I  niid  of  the 
id  striking." 


al  advances 
eir  country, 
ro88.  They 
re  scourged 
irrcsted  the 
Relation  cle 


k. 


ip" 


b 


la  (inspirit,  Vufi).  It  i«  Mippo^rd  that  this  niy!«tcriou«  visitor  wn^nNorwnian.  Tho 
iiiimc  U(is}iii  lUfiiiis  •'  lunil's  «'Mtl,'  one  of  \U  coiiiponent  |turt.s  Ih'Iiij.'  foiiiid  iilxo  in 
tlie  ivtMiri(;in!il  word!*  Miila-(;iL-<li,  Triicadif-j^iish,  etr.  'I'lif  wivrlikt*  t  ilii's  on  (lii.H 
Fhon)  wrn*  formerly  distinguished  for  tlieir  tierce  and  victorious  forayM  into  the  re- 
mote  lands  of  tho  Sl(>ntai>;nais  and  Ks(|uiniaiix. 

I'rof.  llafn,  tlio  >?"'»*  Danisli  archnolonist,  im«  advanced  a  theory  to  the  effeet 
that  (iaspc  was  a  tishinK-Htution  of  tlic  Norse  vikings  in  the  lltii,  i2tli,  and  i:)th 
centuries.  It  is  8U|>|M).sed  that  it  was  visited  in  loU<i  by  the  Spanish  mariner  Vela>co, 
who  ascended  tho  St.  I^awrence  for  2(H)  leagues,  or  elw>  hy  Stid'ano  (iomez,  who  was 
sailing  from  Spain  to  Cuha  in  1525,  but  was  blown  far  from  Ids  courxe,  and  eiitcrtHi 
tho  (lulf  of  St.  liawrenco.  Tliere  is  an  old  Castilian  tradition  that  the  gold-seeking 
Spanlard-s,  finding  no  precious  metiils  hen*,  said,  "  Am  natin  "  ("  There  is  nothhig 
hem"  .  Tills  oft-rci)eated  phrase  became  fl.\cd  in  tlie  nieuiory  of  tlie  Indians, 
though  it  was  not  conipreheiuled  ;  and  when  Carlier  came,  tliey  snppose<i  liim  to  bo 
of  the  same  people  as  the  previous  Kuropcan  visitors,  and  endeavored  to  excite  Ids 
interest  by  repeating  tho  worils,  "  Aca  nsida,  Aca  nuda."  Ho  thought  that  tluy 
were  giving  him  the  name  of  their  nation  or  country,  and  so,  according  to  this 
puerile  tradition,  arose  the  name  of  Canada.  Another  theory  of  the  derivation  of 
tlie  name  was  given  Ity  the  early  New-Knglanders  :  "  New  lOngland  is  l»y  some  af- 
firmed to  bo  an  islan<l,  bounded  on  the  north  with  the  Klver  Canada  (so  called  from 
.Mon.Hieur  C  \ne)."'  {.\om¥.\.\\' a  New  England's  tlnritiex  Discovernl,  UMi.)  "From 
tills  lake  northwar.ls  is  deriveil  the  famous  River  of  Canada,  so  named  of  Monsieur 
de  Cane,  a  French  Lord,  who  first  planted  a  colony  of  French  in  America."  (MoH- 
ton's  \'hv  EHi;li.i/i  Cnnann,  Iti-fi.) 

The  generally  received  account  of  the  origin  of  tho  name  Canada  is  that  it  is  an 
In  lian  compound  word.  I'ltii^^h-na-U'dugk-n  means  "  the  village  of  the  rapid,"  \\a 
first  svllahio  being  similar  to  that  of  the  Indian  word  ('<tui;li-n(t-iiatigli,  "  village  of 
huts'  (also  of  VnimU-iiu-^n,  or  Cayiigji,  and  Caiiiili-iia-<tnu:;h-^(i,  now  Oanan- 
dd'^iia),  which  has  been  eiipMonizi'd  into  "  Canada."  U'hen  Itrant,  the  Mohawk 
chieftain,  translated  the  Ciospel  of  St.  Mutthcsv  iuto  his  owu  lunguugc,  ho  ulwujS 
put  Canada  for  "  a  village." 

In  April,  1534  (being  then  in  his  fortieth  year),  the  hold  and  Mgarlous  Jaqucs 
Cartier  set  sail  from  ancient  St.  .Malo  ("  thrust  out  like  a  buttress  into  the  sea, 
stniige  and  grim  of  asi)ect,  breathing  war  from  its  walls  and  battlements  of  ragged 
stone,  —  a  stronghold  of  privateers,  tho  homo  of  a  nice  whose  iutnu-tablo  and  de- 
fiant independence  noither  time  nor  change  has  subdued"),  lie  was  under  tho 
jtatronago  of  I'hilippe  do  Hrion-Chabot.  Adminil  of  France,  and  was  sent  forth  to 
reconnoitre  a  now  route  to  Cathay,  for  the  great  advantage  of  £uro|)ean  commerce. 
It  was  also  thought  that  in  the  new  realms  beyond  the  sea  the  Catholic  Church 
might  make  suclj  conquests  us  would  niquite  lier  for  the  great  schisms  of  Luther  and 
Calvin  and  tho  Anglican  Chnn-h.     Tho  result  lias  nearly  justified  tiie  hope. 

The  intrepid  voyager  traversed  tho  Strait  of  IJelle  Isle,  and  stretched  across  to 
the  Baiftlfs  C/ialeurs,  which  was  entered  on  the  'Jth  of  July,  and  nu-eived  its  name 
from  the  intense  heats  which  the  mariners  encountered  there.  lie  then  landed  at 
(J.ispe,  and  took  posse.xsit.n  of  the  country  in  tho  name  of  his  Church  and  King  by 
erecting  a  cross,  OO  ft.  high,  adorned  with  tho  Heur-de-lis.  Here  ho  met  a  company 
of  warriors  from  Quebec,  campaigning  against  tho  natives  of  this  region,  and  car- 
ried two  of  them  to  Fnince.  They  were  introduced  to  a.l  the  splendors  of  l'ari.< 
and  tho  court  of  Francis  I.,  and  in  tho  following  year  returned  with  Cartier  and 
piloted  his  Hoot  up  tho  St.  Lawrence  to  their  homo  at  Stodocona  (Quebec). 

"  Twenty  vessels  were  laden  with  stores,  food,  building  implements,  gnna,  and 
ammunition  ;  nearly  150  pieces  of  ordnance  were  stowed  away  in  the  diiTerent  holds, 
to  1)0  mounted  upon  the  walls  of  Quebec  and  other  forts ;  tho  decks  were  crowded 
with  emigrants,  malo  and  female ;  priests  were  there,  burning  with  religious  zeal ; 
and  everything  looked  hopeful  for  their  success.  Tho  whole  Heet  was  put  under  tho 
command  of  M.  do  Roquemont,  a  French  Admiral ;  and  full  of  hope  and  exiwctatioa 
they  set  sail  from  Franco  in  the  month  of  April,  1»}27."  This  staUdy  fleet  was  over- 
taken by  a  storm  in  the  Gulf,  and  took  refuge  in  Oaspo  Bay,  where  they  were  boldly 
attacked  by  Captain  Kirke's  English  squadron  of  3  vessels.  Kirke  summoned  tho 
immensely  superior  French  fleet  to  surrender,  but  De  Roquemont,  though  unprepared 
for  battle,  and  hampered  with  freight  and  non-combatants,  sent  back  a  spirited  rafusal. 
The  Kirkes  then  soiled  boldly  iuto  tho  hostile  fleet,  aad  after  rakias  the  Admirars 


^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


£. 


%// 


^^<^ 


/. 


ij^ 


'i6 


W 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


2.0 


Iiil2^    12.5 

US  riT  ^" 

at  hi   12.2 

u 

•-  >. 

[1.4    1 1.6^ 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Cbrporadon 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRfET 

WnSTIR.N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  •72-4503 


warn 


1 


^^ 


24G      Route  G7.   THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


H! 


Bliip,  carried  it  by  hoardinp.  The  Frcneh  resisted  bnt  feebly,  and  tlie  wliolc  Fqu.'id- 
roil  fell  into  the  boUl  Hriton's  hands.  He  burnt  10  vesM-l.",  and  freighted  the  otht  rs 
with  the  grand  train  of  artillery  and  the  other  stores,  with  which  he  retrrned  to 
England-  Cliain|ilain  was  left  in  despair,  at  Quebec  ;  and  the  Kirkcs  were  burnt 
in  ettlgy  «"  the  Place  de  (ireve,  at  I'aris. 

OaspC'  wa.s  honored,  in  Itilhi,  by  the  sojourn  of  the  bravo  old  Baron  Dubois  d  At- 
nugour,  some  time  <iovernorof  New  Fraiue.  From  this  point  he  sent  Ids  eeltbrated 
memorial  to  ("olbort,  tlie  Freneh  Prime  Minister,  after  ho  had  bt-cn  deposed  from 
cftiee  through  the  intiuenre  of  liishop  Laval  and  the  .Iesuit,>.  Ilcnre  he  sailed  to 
France,  and  s(K)n  met  a  soldier's  death  in  the  Croatian  fortress  of  Zrin,  which  ho 
was  defenditig  against  the  Turks. 

In  the  year  17G<)  Commodore  Byron's  powerful  fleet  entered  Oaspt  Basin  and 
captured  the  village.  The  Freiieli  frigate  La  Catliarinn  was  in  the  harbor,  ]>iit 
was  soon  taken  and  destroyed  by  fire.  Many  >ears  ago  the  Gaspesian  peninsula  was 
erected  into  a  province,  and  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  this  town.  But 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  not  enough  to  warrant  the  expense  of  a  vice-regal 
court,  and  the  peninsula  waa  rcanucxcd  to  Quebec. 


1^ 


u 


5 

HP 


Ei:' 


m 


!    i 


In  leaviiif^  Gaspd  Bnsiii  the  steamship  passes  the  beaches  of  the  N. 
shore,  lined  with  whale-huts  and  fish-stapes,  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  K. 
down  Gaspe  IJay.  *  Cape  Oaspd  is  Ih  M.  N.  of  Point  S,'.  Peter,  and 
fronts  the  Gulf  with  a  line  of  sandstone  clifls  692  ft.  high.  Off  the  S.  E. 
point  there  was  formerly  a  statue-like  rock  100  ft.  high,  called  La  Vicille 
(the  Old  Woman),  but  it  has  been  thrown  down  by  the  sea.  The  Indians 
named  this  rock.  Gasejnon,  whence  the  name  Gaspe,  which  is  now  applied 
to  the  great  peninsula  between  the  Bay  of  Chalcur  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  Two  leagues  beyond  Cape  Gaspe  the  steamship  passes  Cape  Rosier, 
and  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

67.  The  Lower  St  Lawrence. 

•'  The  most  interesting  object  in  Canada  to  mc  was  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  known 
far  and  wide,  and  for  centuries,  as  the  (ireat  Kiver.  Cartier,  its  discoverer,  sailed 
up  it  as  far  as  Montreal  in  1G35,  nearly  a  century  before  the  coming  of  the  Pil- 
grims; and  I  have  seen  a  pretty  accurate  map  of  it  so  far,  containing  the  city  of 
•ilochelaga' and  the  river  '  Sagueiiay,' in  Ortelius's  Tlieatrtnn  Orbis  Trrmrinn, 
printed  at  Antwerp  in  1575,  in  which  the  famous  cities  of  '  Norumbega'  and  '  Or- 
einora'  stand  on  the  rough-blocked  continent  where  New  England  is  to-day,  and 
the  fabulous  but  unfortunate  Isle  of  Demons,  and  Frislant,  and  otheis,  lie  olt'aiul 
on  in  the  unfrequented  sea,  some  of  them  prowling  near  what  is  now  the  course  of 
the  Cunard  steamers.  It  was  famous  in  Europe  before  the  other  rivers  of  North 
America  were  heard  of,  notwithstanding  that  the  mouth  of  the  Mif.  issippi  is  said  to 
have  beea  discoven'd  first,  and  its  stream  was  reached  by  De  Soto  not  long  after  ; 
but  the  St.  Lawrence  had  attracted  settlers  to  its  cold  shores  long  before  the  Mistis- 
Bippi,  or  even  the  Hudson,  was  known  to  the  world.  The  first  explorers  declared 
that  the  summer  in  that  cour.try  was  as  warm  as  France,  and  they  named  one  of 
the  bays  in  the  Oulf  of  St.  Lawrenc;  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  or  warmth  ;  but  they 
paid  nothing  about  the  winter  being  as  cold  as  Greenland.  In  the  MS.  account 
of  Cartier's  second  voyage  it  is  called  'the  greiUest  river,  without  comparison, 
that  is  known  to  have  ever  been  seen.'  The  savages  told  him  that  it  was  the 
'C'hemif-  du  Canada''  (the  highway  to  Canada), '  which  goes  so  far  that  no  man 
hat'-  ■  ver  been  to  the  eadj  that  they  had  heard.'  The  Saguenay,  one  of  its  tribu- 
taries, is  described  vy  Cartier  in  1535,  and  still  more  particularly  by  .lean  Alphonsc 
in  1542,  who  adds  :  '  1  think  that  this  riv.r  comes  from  the  sea  of  Cathay,  for  in 
tills  place  there  i.ssues  a  strong  current,  and  there  runs  here  a  terrible  tide.'  The 
early  explorers  saw  many  Avhales  and  other  sea-monsters  far  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Champlain,  in  his  map,  represents  a  whalo  spouting  in  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  360  M. 
from  what  may  be  called  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  and  Charlcyoix  took  his  reader  to 


>•■« 


I'.a 


CAPE  ROSIER. 


Route  67.      247 


lolc  Fqu;i(l- 

tho  otln  rs 

ctrrnod  to 

vtTc  burnt 

ibois  d  Av- 
(t'Uhrntod 
posed  from 
c  wiilod  to 
,  which  ho 

Dasin  nnd 
larbor,  but 
(insula  waH 
own.  Ihit 
I  vice-rt'gal 


of  the  N. 

the  S.  K. 
'cter,  and 

the  S.  E. 
La  Vicille 
le  Indians 
w  applied 
La  w  re  no  0 
e  Bosier, 


ticp,  known 
erer,  sailed 
of  the  Pil- 
thc  city  cif 
Tfrrnruvi, 
'  and  '  Or- 
;o-duy,  and 

lie  olf  and 
L'  course  of 
.0  of  North 
)i  iH  suid  to 
»mg  after ; 
the  Mishis- 
rs  declared 
nod  one  of 

but  they 
S.  account 
nmparison, 
it  was  the 
r»t  no  man 
f  its  tribu- 

Alphonsc 
liay,  for  in 
ide.'  The 
Lawrrnco. 
bee,  360  M. 
s  reader  to 


1^ 


>"«] 


:i&;a 


the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  to  sec  the  '  porpoises,  wliito  as  snow,'  sporting  on  the 
siirfiice  of  the  harbor  of  Qm-bec.  In  Champliiin's  day  it  was  comnionly  called  '  the 
Great  iliver  of  Canada.'  More  than  one  nation  has  claimed  it.  In  Ogilby'.s  '  Amer- 
ica o'  1(570,'  in  the  map  Novi  Bel-^i,  it  i.<<  called  '  Do  (jlrootc  Uivier  van  Niew  Ne- 
derlandt  '  It  rises  near  another  father  o''  waters,  tlic  Mis.sissippi,  issuing  from  a 
remarkable  spring  far  up  in  the  woods,  cailed  Lake  Superior,  l,5(Ht  M.  in  circum- 
ference ;  and  several  otlwr  springs  tlicrc  are  thereabouts  which  feed  it.  It  makca 
such  a  noise  in  its  tumbling  down  at  one  place  as  is  heard  all  round  the  world. 
IJouchettc,  the  Survoyor-CJencral  of  the  Canadas,  calls  it  '  the  most  splendid  river 
on  the  globe ' ;  says  that  it  is  '2,'i(X)  M.  long  (more  recent  geographers  make  it  4-fiOO 
M.  longer  ) ;  "»at  at  the  Riviere  du  Sud  it  is  11  .>!.  wide  ;  at  the  I'aps  of  Alutanc,  25 ; 
at  the  Seven  slan<ls,  73;  and  at  its  mouth,  from  Cape  Rosier  to  the  Mingan  Settle- 
ments in  Labriulor,  'M  M.  wide.  It  has  ntnch  the  largest  estuary,  reg.iriing  both 
lengtli  and  breadth,  of  ji.ny  river  on  tnc  globe.  Perhaps  Charlevoix  describes  the 
St  Lawrence  truly  as  the  most  nnvianlAit  river  in  the  world.  Between  Montreal 
and  Quebec  it  averages  '.'  M.  wide.  The  tide  is  felt  as  fir  up  as  Three  Rivers,  432 
M.,  which  is  as  far  as  from  IJoston  to  Wasliington.  The  geographer  Ouyot  ob- 
serves that  the  Maranon  is  3,()00  .M.  long,  and  gathers  its  waters  from  a  surface  of 
1,.')00,000  square  M.  ;  that  the  Mississippi  is  also  3,<M)0  M.  long,  but  its  basin  covers 
only  8-90(J,(MtO  square  M. ;  that  the  St.  Lawrence  is  1,800  M.  long,  and  its  basin 
covers  1,000,000  square  M.  ;  and  speaking  of  the  lakes,  he  adds  :  '  These  vast  fresh- 
water seas,  together  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  cover  a  surface  of  nearly  100,000  square 
M.,and  it  has  been  calculated  that  they  contain  about  one  half  of  all  the  fresh 
water  on  the  surface  of  our  planet.'  Pilots  say  there  are  no  soundings  till  150  M. 
up  the  St  l^awrcnce.  McTagyart,  an  engineer,  observes  that  '  the  Ottawa  is  larger 
than  all  the  rivers  in  Great  IJritain,  were  they  running  in  one.'  The  traveller  Grey 
writes  :  '  There  is  not  perhaps  in  the  whole  extent  of  this  immen.sc  continent  so  fine 
an  approach  to  it  as  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  In  the  Southern  States  you  have, 
in  general,  a  level  country  for  many  milas  inland  ;  here  you  are  introduced  at  once 
into  a  majestic  scenery,  where  everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  —  mountains,  woods, 
lakes,  rivers,  precipices,  waterfalls.'  We  have  not  yet  the  data  for  a  minut«  com- 
parison of  the  St.  Lawrence  with  the  South  American  rivers ;  but  it  is  obvious  that, 
taking  it  in  connection  with  its  lakes,  its  estuary,  and  its  fills,  it  cnMly  bears  off 
the  palm  from  all  the  rivers  on  the  globe."  (Freely  condensed  from  Thoreau'S 
A  Yankee  in  Canada.) 


'  Bicn  loin  de  809  gourbis,  sous  Tombrc  dcs 

phitanes, 
L'Arabc  au  blanche  burnous  qui  suit  Ics 
caravancs 
Sur  lo.s  sables  errant 
DC'COuvrc  iiioins  jo.vcux  son  oasis  hr.midc, 
<4ue  les  Caiiadiens'sou!!  la  unison  toirldc 
Lcur  flcuvc  Samt-Lauruii :. 


A  nous  scs  champs  dazur et  scs  fratches 

rctraitcs, 
Lcs  ilots  couronnfs  de  mournntes  aigrettes, 

Los  inonts  nudacicux. 
Lps  aronics  nlqnonts  que  la  nicr  y  depose 
Et  son  grand  horizon  oil  votro  ceil  so  repose 

Coinnic  1  etoilc  aux  cieux." 

L.  J.  C.  FiSET. 


"  Sur  cos  bords  cnchantc's,  notrc  'nero,  la 
France, 
A  laisse  do  sa  ploire  im  immortcl  sillon, 
Precipitant  ses  flots  vers  rocOan  immvnso, 
Le  noble  Saint-Laurent  rcdit  encor  son 
nom. 

"  Salut,  6  mn  belle  patrie  ! 
Salut,  u  bords  du  Saint-Laurent 
Tcrre  'Uic  I'C'trangcr  envio, 
Et  (ju'il  regrottc  on  la  quittant- 
llcureux  qui  pout  passer  sa  vie, 


Tonjonrs  fidi'lc  a  to  servir ; 
Et  dans  tos  bras,  mere  chorio, 
Pcut  rendrc  son  dernier  soupir. 

"  Salut,  6  eiel  de  ma  pntric  I 
Salut.  6  noble  Saint-Laurent  I 
Ton  nom  dans  nion  dmc  attendrie 
RCpand  un  nnrfum  cnivrant. , 
O  Canada,  nls  de  la  France, 
Qui  tc  couvrit  do  ses  bicnfaits, 
Toi,  notre  ..monr,  notrc  osperance, 
<iui  pourra  toublier  jamais  '( " 

O.  CBiMAZIK. 


Cape  Bosier,  "the  Scylla  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  6  M.  beyond  Cape 
Gasp(?,  and  is  the  S.  portal  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  whose  mouth  at 
this  point  is  96  M.  wide.  At  the  end  of  the  capo  is  a  stone  lighthouse 
tower,  112  ft.  hi^h,  with  a  fixed  li^ht  (visible  16  M.)  and  a  fog-horn  and 
cannon.  The  hamlets  of  Grand  Grevc,  Griffin's  Cove,  and  Cape  Rosier 
arc  In  this  vicinity,  and  arc  inhabited  by  French  people,  who  are  de- 


^ 


;t 


248     r^outc  67. 


CAPE  MAGDELATNE. 


i. 


ill 


li 


m 


pendent  on  the  fih.lilng-cptiibli.slnncnt  of  Wm.  Fniing  L  Co.,  of  tl-.c  Isle  of 
Jersey. 

*'The  coast  between  Cape  Rosier  nnil  Cape  Chatte  is  lyigh  and  bold,  free 
from  dangers,  and  dcstitiito  of  harbors,"  and  is  lined  with  n  majestic  wall 
of  monntains  composed  of  slate  and  graywackc.  They  are  covered  with 
forests,  and  afford  successions  of  noble  views,  sometimes  of  amphithc- 
atrlcal  coves,  sometimes  of  distant  vistas  of  blue  peaks  up  the  long  gorges 
of  the  rivers. 

"  How  can  it  be  that  mon  inhabit  this  hnrsh,  nrM,  ronnh,  almost  hateful  country, 
which  extends  froni  t'.'HM' Chutto  to  tlie  (iaspo  Ita.'^iii  ?  One  can  scarcely  imagine. 
Yet,  as  you  see,  here  and  tin  re  ajiiiear  jjarcels  of  tilled  land,  houses  scattered  along 
the  bunks,  and  little  churches  at  varinu.s  j)oint.<." 

"  Tiie  peninsula  of  (Ja.-^p*',  the  laiuTs  end  of  Canada  towards  the  E. ,  from  its  rco- 
loj^ical  formation  of  shale  and  linie.-^tone,  presenting  their  upturned  edges  toward 
the  sea  and  dipjiiiig  inland,  forms  long  ranges  of  beetling  clitTs  running  down  to  a 
narrow  strip  of  beach,  and  affording  lus  resting-place  even  to  tlie  fishermen,  except 
where  they  have  been  cut  down  by  streams,  and  pr.  sent  little  coves  and  bays  open- 
ing bark  '  jto  deep  glens,  affording  a  view  of  great  rolling  woocU-d  ridges  that  stand 
rank  after  rank  behind  the  great  sea-cliff,  though  with  many  Gnc  valleys  between." 

7  M.  N.  W.  of  Cape  Rosier  the  settlement  at  Gviffiii's  Core  is  passed;  and 
6  M.  farther  on  is  Fox  Jitrcr  (Cloridorme),  a  settlement  of  500  persons,  w  ith 
one  of  the  IsIe-of-Jersey  fishing-establi-hments,  a  large  Catholic  church, 
and  a  court-house.  The  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries  are  followed  in  the 
adjacent  waters,  and  large  American  llcets  arc  (;fien  seen  off  the  port. 
The  grand  highway-  from  Quei)ec  ends  here,  but  a  rugged  road  runs  down 
to  Gaspe  in  17  M.  The  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  French.  IG  M.  farther 
W.  is  the  haven  called  Great  Tond,  24  M.  beyond  which  is  Cape  Magdc- 
laine  (red-and-whitc  revolving  light,  visible  15  -20  M.)  at  the  month  of  tlio 
River  Magdelaine,  the  home  of  some  of  the  wildest  legends  of  this  region. 

"  Where  is  the  Canadian  sailor,  familiar  with  this  coast,  who  has  nv  t  heard  of  the 
plaintive  sounds  anil  doleful  cries  uttered  by  the  Brailtard  <le  In  M(if(fftlnhir  ^ 
Where  would  you  find  a  native  seaman  who  would  con.^cnt  to  spend  a  f;'sv  days  by 
himself  in  this  locality,  wherein  a  troubled  spirit  .'(cks  to  make  known  .he  torments 
it  endures?  Is  it  the  soul  of  a  shipwrecked  mariner  asking  fi>r  Chri.-tian  burial  for 
it"?  bones,  or  imploring  the  prayers  of  the  church  for  its  repose  ?  Is  it  the  voice  of 
the  murilerer  condemned  to  expiate  his  crimes  on  the  very  spot  which  witncssid 
its  commission  ?  ....  l-'or  it  is  well  known  tliat  (Jaspt' wreckers  ",iave  not  alwa\s 
contented  themselves  with  robbery  and  ))illagc,  but  have  son.etimes  nought  conceal- 
ment and  impunity  by  making  away  with  viciims,  —  convinced  that  the  tomb  is 
silent  and  reveals  not  its  secrets."'  The  Abbe  Ca.«gniin  attributes  these  weird 
sounds  to  the  fate  of  a  i)riest  who  refu.-ed  to  christen  a  cliild  who  afterwards  was 
lost  by  dying  unbai)tized.  The  conscience-stricken  prii'st  faded  away  to  a  skeleton, 
and  the  sound  of  liis  moaning  has  ever  since  been  heard  off  thee  dark  sliores.  An- 
other legend  tells  tliat  a  terrible  shipwreck  occurred  at  this  point,  and  tliat  the  only 
soul  that  reached  the  shore  was  a  baby  boy,  who  lay  wailing  on  the  beach  througli- 
out  the  stormy  night.  "  Where  La  Magdelaine  run.s  into  the  Gulf,  horizontal  la\ers 
of  limestone,  fretted  away  all  around  their  base  by  the  action  of  the  tides  and 
waves,  a.s.«umG  the  most  fantastic  shajH's,  —  here  representing  ruins  of  OothJc  archi- 
tecture, there  forming  hollow  caverns  into  which  the  surf  rolling  produces  a  moan- 
ing sound,  like  an  uiKjiiicb  spirit  seeking  n-pose."  The  stninge  wailing  which  is 
heard  at  certain  seasons  along  this  shore  is  otherwise  referred  to  the  rush  of  the 
wind  through  the  pine-trees  on  the  cape,  whose  trunks  grate  together  with  a  harsh 
creaking. 


lira 


CAPE  CIIATTE. 


Route  67.      249 


!) 


Pleurese  Point  h  12  M.  from  Cnpc  M:»;:^  lolaino,  and  is  noar  the  romofo 
hamlet  of  Mont  Louis.  Lines  of  wild  dills  front  the  shore  lor  the  text  28 
M.,  to  Cape  St.  Anne,  near  -which  is  the  French  Catholic  vilLge  of  <S7. 
Anne  ties  Monts,  which  has  250  inhabitants  and  a  consulate  of  Italy.  Tho 
adjacent  waters  abound  in  mackerel,  cod,  halibut,  and  her-'njr,  and  preat 
qunntities  of  salmon  and  trout  are  cauf:;ht  in  the  IJiver  St.  Anne.  Tho 
stately  peaks  of  the  *  St.  Anne  Mountains  are  seen  on  the  S.,  com- 
mencing 12  M.  S.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anno  asid  running  in  a  S.  W.  course  for 
.40  M.,  nearly  parallel  with  the  river  and  20-25  M.  inland.  These  moun- 
tains are  the  most  lofty  in  Canada,  and  are  visible  for  80-ltO  M.  at  sea, 
in  clear  weather.  The  chief  peak  is  14  M.  from  Cape  Chatte,  and  is 
3,973  ft.  high. 

"  All  thoiie  whc  romc  to  Now  Franro  know  wpll  onouRh  the  mountains  of  Xntre 
Dame,  b«H'iiuso  the  pilots  ami  .siilors  heinf?  arrived  at  tliat  part  of  the  ureat  river 
wliieh  is  opposite  to  those  lii^ii  iiiouiitaiiis,  l)aptize  ordinarily  for  sporf  tlie  new 
prissenj^ers,  if  the.v  do  not  turn  a>ije  Ity  some  present  the  iiuindatioii  of  this  baptiiiui 
whieh  is  made  to  flow  plentifully  on  their  heads."'    (L.vlem.v.nt,  10-18.) 

Cape  Chatte  is  15  >L  N.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anne,  and  sustains  a  white 
flashing  light  which  is  visible  for  18  ^L 

Cape  Chatte  was  named  in  honor  of  tho  offlcor  who  sent  out  the  expedition  of 
!•»";{,  under  I'ontjjnive  and  Lesearbot.  His  style  Wivs  K\  iiiard  de  Chaste,  Kni>;lit 
of  Malta,  CiMumamler  of  Loruietan,  Grand  Master  of  the  Order  of  i>t.  Lazarus,  aud 
Uovernor  of  Dieppe. 

Soniowliere  in  this  broad  reach  of  the  river  occurred  tlie  ehl%'alrouK  naval  battle 
between  the  Kiiiilish  war-vessel  Abigail  and  the  French  ship  of  Kmery  de  Caen  (sou 
of  FiOrd  de  la  Motte).  The  Abigail  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Kirke,  and  was  sailing; 
against  Tadousac,  when  she  was  att^icked  (.June,  1029)  by  De  Caen.  A  running  fiijht 
of  several  liours  ensued,  until  a  fortunate  cannon-.'<hot  from  the  Abigail  cut  away 
a  mast  on  the  French  vessel  and  compelled  her  to  surrender.  The  loss  on  each 
ship  wa8  considerable. 

The  reacli  of  the  St.  Lawrence  next  entered  is  about  35  iL  wide,  and 
on  the  N.  shore  is  Point  de  Monts  (sec  page  233).  It  is  33  M.  from  Cai)0 
Chatte  to  Matane,  in  which  the  steamer  passes  the  liamlets  of  Dalibaira 
and  St.  Folicite.  In  1088  the  Sieur  Kiverin  established  a  sedentary  lish- 
ery  at  Matane,  devoteil  to  the  pursuit  of  codfish  and  whales.  Sometimes 
as  many  as  50  whales  were  seen  at  one  time  from  the  shore.  This  branch 
of  the  fi>heries  has  now  greatly  declined.  Matane  is  a  village  ot  300  in- 
habitants, devoted  to  fishing  and  lumbering,  and  is  visited  by  Canadian 
citizens  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  on  the  fine  sandy 
beach.  Thei.T  is  also  good  fishing  for  trout  and  salmon  on  the  Matane 
I?iver.  The  remarkable  peaks  called  the  Pops  of  Matane  are  to  the  S.W., 
in  the  great  Gaspesian  wilderness.  In  clear  weather,  when  a  few  miles  K. 
of  Matane,  and  well  out  in  the  river,  Mt.  Camille  may  be  seen,  40  M. 
distant,  S.  W.  by  W.  h  W.,  like  an  island  on  the  remote  horizon. 

The  shore  is  now  low,  rocky,  and  wooded,  and  runs  S.  W.  22  M.  to 
Petit  Jftti.f,  which  was  populated  with  Scottish  families  by  its  seigneur. 
4  M.  from  this  point  is  the  station  of  St.  Octave,  on  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way. Metis  is  a  little  way  W.,  and  is  occupied  by  250  French  Catholics 
11* 


\\ 


I 


i 


\\ 


250    TJou^c  cr. 


RIMOUSKI. 


nnd  Scotch  Prcsbyterinns.  It  hns  a  Innp  povprnmcnt  whnrf;  and  the 
people  arc  enpapcd  also  in  the  purstiit  of  Ithick  whales,  whidi  are  sought 
by  schooners  equipped  with  harpoons,  lances,  etc.  N.  of  Mutis,  across 
the  river,  is  the  great  jteninsula  of  .}fttnirouaf/an,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
rivers  Manicouapan  and  Outarde,  abounding  in  cascades. 

The  steamship  comes  to  oil'  Father  Point,  where  there  is  a  lighthouse 
nnd  telegraph-station  (for  news  of  the  shipping),  and  a  hamlet  of  100  in- 
liabitants.  Here  the  outward-hound  vessels  discharge  their  pMota.  Near 
this  place  arc  the  hamlets  of  St.  Luce  and  St.  Donat,  and  at  St.  Flavie, 
15  M.  N.  K.,  the  Intercolonial  Railway  reaches  the  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
70).  A  few  miles  S.  L.  is  Ml.  Camille,  which  is  2,0.36  ft.  high.  Father 
Point  (fo/zi/t'  au  Pert]  was  so  named  because  the  priest  Henri  Nouvcl 
■Nvintcrcd  there  in  1GG3.  Canada  geese,  ducks,  nnd  brant  arc  killed  here 
in  great  numbers  during  the  long  easterly  storms. 

St.  Germain  de  Bimouski  {Hold  St.  Latu'ent ;  liimntiski  Hotel)  is  G  M. 
from  Father  Point,  and  is  an  incorj)orated  city,  an  important  station  on 
the  Intercolonial  Railway,  and  the  cajiital  of  Rimouski  County  nnd  of  a 
Roman-Catholic  diocese.  It  has  1,200-  l,r)00  inhabitants,  with  a  handsome 
cathedral,  a  Catholic  college,  convent,  episcopal  palace,  conrt-hojise,  and 
other  public  bu'ldings.  The  Canadian  government  has  built  a  large  and 
substantial  wharf  out  to  the  deep  channel,  and  a  prosperous  future  is  ex- 
pected for  the  yojing  city.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place, 
attracted  by  its  cool  air  and  fme  scenery. 

Rimouski  was  fotindod  in  lfi88,  nnd  in  1701  a  misslonnry  was  pent  hcrp,  who 
fou'uU'il  a  parish  wliich  lias  now  (ti'own  into  a  strong  liishopric.  "  Kimoubki,  tii« 
futurt"  nu'tropolis  of  tlip  lx)wrr  St.  liiiwronro,  a  iittlo  rity  full  of  promise  and  fur- 
rowed alrt-ady  hy  tl>e  rails  of  the  Intorrolonial,  will  liave  its  harbor  of  n-fupc  wIuto 
the  tjrcat  ocwm-sfwiniers  will  stop  in  pasi^ing,  and  will  attract  all  the  ronunorco  of 
the  innncnso  ngion  of  the  Metnp^'dia,  the  future  granary  of  our  country."  The 
Kiniouski  lUver  is  funious  for  its  abundance  of  trout. 

ISai'iiaby  IkIbikI  is  low  and  wooded,  and  3  M.  long,  sheltering  the  harbor  of 
Rimouski.  It  was  known  bj  its  present  name  in  1629,  when  the  fleet  of  the  Kirk<.i 
assembled  here.  From  17-U  to  1767  it  was  the  home  of  a  pious  Freneh  hermit,  who 
avoitled  women  and  i)a.>»sed  most  of  his  time  in  his  oratory.  .**onie  say  that  he  was 
wrecked  off  these  shores,  and  vowed  to  Heaven  to  abide  here  if  he  was  savetl ;  others, 
that  he  had  been  di>a]>poiiited  in  love.  Ii<  his  last  hours  lie  was  visited  by  |M'oplo 
from  Rimouski,  who  found  hiui  dyuig,  with  his  faithful  dog  licking  his  chilling 
face. 

BIc  Island  wa.s  formerly  called  Le  Pic,  but  wa.s  named  St.  Jean  by  Cartior, 
who  entered  its  harbor  in  1635,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  decapitation  of  St.  John. 
It  was  included  in  the  scheme  of  D'Avaugour  and  VauV)an  (in  the  17th  century)  for 
the  defence  of  Canada,  and  was  int«'nded  to  have  been  made  an  impregnable  niari- 
tinia  fortress,  sheltering  a  harbor  of  refuge  for  the  Frencli  navy.  But  this  Mont  St. 
Michel  of  the  New  World  never  received  its  ramparts  and  artillery.  The  place  wis 
taken  by  Wolfe's  British  fleet  of  200  ships,  .lune  18,  17',!) ;  and  when  the  Trfnt  alTni.' 
threatened  to  involve  the  United  Ktates  and  (Jreat  Brit.iin  in  war,  in  1861,  British 
troops  were  landed  at  Bic  from  the  ocean-steamship  Persia,  and  were  carried  hence 
in  sleighs  to  Riviere  du  I-oup.  Near  this  point  is  V Islet  au  Ma.'iuicre,  where,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  200  Micmac  Indians  were  once  surprised  at  night  by  the  Iro- 
<|nois,  while  slumbering  in  a  cavern.  The  venp'ful  enemy  silently  filled  the  cave's 
nioutli  with  dry  wood  and  then  set 't  on  tire,  shooting  the  unfortunate  Mi(  mnes  ns 
they  lea|MMl  through  the  flames  195  of  the  latter  were  slain,  and  it  is  claimed  that 
their  bones  strewed  the  islet  until  '..ithiu  a  few  years. 


T 


^i 


*yi 


K.^ 


T 


TROIS  PISTOLES. 


Route  07.     251 


■%i 


Ste.-C^oile  du  Bio  (two  lioarflinp-Imnses)  i«  a  prntpornu"?  Fronrh  vil- 
Inpo  f.ffiOO  iiili!il)it!Uit«,  with  a  pooil  harbor  ami  a  hirpo  and  ujjly  churrli. 
It  is  'J  M.  from  IJimouski,  ami  i<*  surrouiidcil  by  fiiin  scenery.  The  Hay 
of  Bic  is  "hirpc  oiionph  to  be  mnjostic,  small  oiioiiph  to  bo  ovprlooknl  in 
one  glance;  a  sljorc  cut  into  deep  notches,  broken  •with  flats,  cape«,  am', 
beaches;  a  backgrouml  of  monntains  hewn  prodigally  from  the  world's 
material,  like  all  the  landscapes  of  our  Canada."  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way was  carried  throngli  this  region  at  a  vast  expense,  and  sweeps  .tmund 
the  flank  of  the  mountain,  200  ft.  above  tlio  village,  aflbrding  beautiful 
views.  Wonderful  mirages  arc  seen  o(T  this  port,  and  out  towards  Point 
de  Mduts.  The  highlands  immediately  over  Ilic  arc  nearly  1,300  ft,  high; 
and  the  bay  recoi:es  two  rivers,  which  descend  in  cascades  and  rapids 
from  the  neighboring  gorges.  As  the  steamship  passes  the  lighthouse  on 
J3i'jiiitle  Islam!,  the  remarkable  and  varied  peaks  of  the  mountains  to  tho 
S.  wdl  attract  the  attention  by  their  fantastic  irregularity.  Iletween  I?ic 
and  Tiois  Pistoles,  but  not  visible  from  the  river,  are  the  new  French  vil- 
liiges  of  St.  Fabien,  among  tho  mountains;  St.  Matthieu,  with  its  great 
quarries  of  red  stone  for  the  Intercolonial  Railway;  and  St.  Simon,  near  a 
pretty  highland  lake. 

The  rocky  islets  of  Uosade  arc  2  M.  olT  the  shore  of  Notre  Dnmc  <lc,i  Anjjos,  and  arc 
decorated  witli  a  larRe  cross,  in  n.emory  of  a  iiiarv«"llous  escape.  Some  JJO  years  njxo 
the  St.  Ijiwreiice  froze  for  0  M.  out  from  the  pnrisli,  and  many  liundreds  of  seals 
were  di.xcovered  on  tlic  ire.  The  |H'ople  "athered  and  went  out  to  slay  these  Ptranpo 
visitors,  hut  tho  ice  suddenly  broke  adrift  and  wa,s  whirled  away  down  the  stream. 
There  apiM-ared  no  ho|-.e  of  escape  for  the  40  men  on  the  outer  Hoes,  whicli  were 
now  \  M  from  the  shore.  Their  families  and  friends  l)ade  them  <\n  eternal  farewell, 
and  the  villaiije  pricst.s,  Ktandin^  at  the  water',-*  edjje,  pave  them  final  absolution  in 
preparation  for  the  appnvichinp  catastrophe.  IJut  even  while  they  were  kneeling 
on  tlu'  ice,  a  bold  mariner  l.tnnchcd  a  tiny  skiff  from  the  shore  and  crossed  tlio 
wiileninK  belt  oi  tumultuons  waters,  touched  the  crumbling  edges  of  the  llo«'s,  and, 
after  many  trips  back  and  forth,  succeeded  in  landing  every  one  of  the  men  upon 
the  isle  of  Uo,sade.  Thence  they  pa.sscd  easily  to  the  uiaiuland,  and  afterwards 
erected  a  cross  ou  Kosadc,  as  a  token  of  their  gratitude. 

Trois  Pistoles  (two  good  hotels)  is  a  thriving  village  of  6G0  inhiib- 
itants,  situated  inside  of  Basque  Island  (5  M.  from  the  Rosades),  and  nenr 
valuable  deposits  of  limestone.  There  arc  two  Catholic  churches  here, 
whose  construction  involved  a  litigious  contest  which  is  still  remembered 
in  Lower  Canada.  The  beauty  of  the  mnrine  scenery  in  this  vicinitj'  has 
induced  several  Qitebcc  gentlemen  to  build  summer  cottages  here^ 

There  is  a  well-4buntled  tradition  that  In  the  year  1700  a  traveller  rode  up  to  tho 
bank  of  the  then  un.settled  and  unnamed  river  and  asked  the  Norman  fisherman, 
who  wa.s  tending  his  nets  near  his  rude  hut,  what  he  would  charge  to  ferry  him 
acro.s.s.  "Trois  pistoles  "  (three  ten-franc  pieces),  said  the  fisher.  "What  is  tho 
name  of  this  river?  "  asked  the  traveller.  "  It  has  no  name  ;  it  will  be  baptized  at 
a  later  day."  "  Well,  then,"  said  the  traveller,  "  name  it  TVois  PistoUs:^  Tho 
river  is  now  famous  for  its  fine  trout-'.lshing. 

"  That  portion  of  the  St.  I^awrence  ext^>nding  betwecfl  the  Saguenay  River  and 
Ooosc  Island  is  about  20  M.  wide.  The  spring  tides  rise  and  ihli  a  distance  of  18  fl. 
The  water  is  salt,  but  clear  and  cold,  and  the  channel  very  deep.  Here  may  be  s«h'u 
abundantly  the  black  seal,  the  white  porpoi'c,  and  the  bl.-ick  whale."  The  white 
porpoise  yields  aa  oil  of  tho  best  quality,  and  its  skia  makes  good  leather. 


2.")  2      Jloutc  07. 


KAMOURASKA. 


. 


r 

■•I 


■- 


I  ! 


'I 


■>»ii> 


tl 


Tlir  Cinlf-Ports  «<tonni«liip  (loo<»  not  istnp  hotwoon  Fntlior  Point  iind 
Qnol)cc,  hilt  tlip  villaf^cs  dcfrribptl  in  tlii*  itincrarv  may  !.o  v.sitpil  from 
Qnol)pr;  tliosc  on  the  S.  sliore  by  ndiway,  and  St.  Paul's  Bay,  Miirrny 
Bay,  IJivierc  du  Loup,  and  Himoiiski  by  rivor-stoanicrs.  The  N.  shoro 
from  Cape  Tourmontc  to  tho  Sapucnay  is  dosoribcd  in  IJdUtp  72. 

The  vessel  steams  up  by  dririi  IMnnd,  wliich  is  0  -  7  M.  lonp,  and  shel- 
ters the  large  mainifacturinji  viila;r('  of  Isk  Wrtc,  whence  fine  l>utter  is 
.•»ent  to  (Quebec.  On  the  r.  is  lial  IMmul,  with  its  tall  stone  lij^hthouse,  oil' 
which  i»  u  liphtship.  Cacouna  and  Hiviere  du  Lf)up  (see  K'onte  72)  aro 
next  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  the  vessel  runs  W.  with  the  three  steep  i>lct.s 
called  the  Brandy  Pots  (Pots-it-l eau-iU-nv)  on  the  r.  The  S.  islet  bears 
ft  fixed  light;  the  N.  islet  is  ir>0  ft.  Iiiph,  of  vesicnlated  conplomerate  in 
which  almond-shaped  bits  of  (piartz  are  imbedde(l.  In  war-time  merchant- 
ships  wait  ofl'  the  Brandy  Pots  for  their  eonvoyinp  frigates.  N.  of  these 
inlets  is  Ilnre  Ji>l<inif,  which  is  about  10  M.  long,  ami  has  extensive  salt 
marshes,  on  which  herds  of  cattle  arc  kept.  On  the  1.  are  now  seen  the 
five  remarkable  islets  called  The  Filgrimfe,  about  li  M.  from  the  S.  shore 
and  44  M.  in  aggregate  length.  The  Lonr;  Pilf/riin  is  300  ft.  high  and  par- 
tially wooded,  and  is  inarkeil  by  a  lighthouse,  180  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  Kamournskn  Islands  arc  6  M.  farther  \V.,  and  over  them  is  seen  the 
pretty  village  of  Kamouraska  (Allnon  Hotel),  with  its  great  Church  of 
St.  Louis  and  Congregational  Convent.  The  river-water  at  this  point  is  as 
salt  as  the  sea,  and  the  village  was  the  chief  sunnncr  resort  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  before  Cacouna  arose. 

"  Who  (loos  not.  know  Knniouni.skn  ?  Who  docs  not  know  that  it  is  a  chnnninR 
villnpo,  lirif^lit  nml  |)irturcs<|up,  bathing  its  fiH-t  in  thi'  crystal  of  the  waters  of  tho 
river  like  a  niiiad,  and  coquettishly  vievvinR  tlic  retieetions  of  its  two  lonj;  ranges  of 
wliito  houses,  .  .  .so  near  the  river  that  fron»  all  tlie  windows  the  ^n-at  waves  niny 
l)c  contemplated  and  their  (;nind  voices  heard  ?  On  all  sides,  except  tr)wards  the  S., 
the  horizon  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  is  only  bounded  l>y  the  vast  blue 
curtaiM  of  the  L-uirentides.  At  the  N.  E.  the  eye  rests  on  a  group  of  verdant  isles, 
like  a  handful  of  emeralds  dropped  by  the  anpel  of  the  seiu  ....  These  isles  are  the 
favorite  resort  of  the  strangers  who  visit  Kamouraska.  There  they  fish,  or  bithi-, 
or  seek  otlicr  amusements,  l^  pique-nique  is  mucli  in  vogue  there,  oud  tlic  truest 
joys  are  felt."' 

St.  Paschal  ("00  inhabitants)  is  5  M.  from  Kamouraska,  on  tho  Grand  Tiuuk 
Railway. 

"  Bel  cndroit,  Saint-Pa.schal,  par  sa  croupe  onduleuFC, 
,S'S  conteaux,  ses  vallons,  sa  n)Ut«»  sinueuse  I 
C'est  la  Sui.^.so  on  lAuvergne  avec  leurs  gais  chalet"*, 
Leurs  monts,  lours  pres  on  ,)cntc  et  lours  jardins  cofiuets." 

Beyond  Kamouraska  the  steamer  passes  Cape  Diable,  and  on  the  N. 
shore,  22  'M.  distant,  aro  the  bold  mountains  about  Murray  B.iy  (sec 
Route  72).  On  the  level  j)lains  to  the  S.  is  seen  the  tall  Church  0/ St. 
Denis,  with  its  attendant  village;  and  beyond  Point  Orignaux  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Rivii're  Quelle,  famous  for  its  porpoise-fisheries.  Near  this  point 
is  the  quaint  Casgi-ain  manor-house,  now  over  ft  century  old. 

This  parish  is  named  for  Madam  IIouoI,  wife  of  Comptrollcr-Ooneral  Ilouel,  who 
WU8  captured  hero  by  Indians  in  the  17th  century.    Near  the  beach  is  a  rock  which 


T 


ST.  ANNE  DE  LA  POCATlfiUE.    Jloule  07.      253 


\ 


•4r> 


boftrs  tlio  plain  Impross  of  thiw  Bnow-shoos,  nrrl  furmrrly  had  the  marks  of  human 
fci't  aiitl  haiitlH.  Ill  |tiJ«»  till'  j>ri«(Ht  of  Uiviun*  (Mu-llc  U'd  his  jmrishiomTH,  uml  divivo 
hai-U  tlu'  Niw-KiiKlaiiiltTs  of  !^ir  William  l'l>li>i>.s(i  llt-ct.  Back  among  tiic  hills  ur« 
tho  hamlet!)  of  Hi.  Onesime  and  St.  I'acotne. 

St.  Anne  de  la  Focatidre  (two  liotcls)  is  a  largo  and  prosperous  town, 
72  M.  below  Quebec,  with  3,000  inhabitants,  a  weekly  paper  {La  Gazette 
ties  Campat/nes),  and  a  convent.  "Nature  has  given  to  St.  Anne  charm- 
ing slioros,  hiden  with  foliage  and  with  melody,  ravishing  points  of  view, 
and  verdant  thickets,  fitted  for  places  of  meditation."  St.  Aunt's  Cullet/e 
is  a  stately  pile  of  buildings  with  pleasant  surroundings  and  a  sumjjtuous 
chapel.  It  has  30  \)rofessors  (ecclesiastics)  and  230  student?,  and  is  main- 
tained in  a  high  state  of  efliciency.  The  parks  cover  several  acres,  and 
the  nniseum  is  well  supplied.  St.  Anne's  Agricultural  School  and  Model- 
Farm  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  has  5  j)rofessors  (zocitechny,  rural 
law,  etc.).  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  college  is  of  great  extent  and 
beauty. 

As  tho  steamer  passes  St.  Anne  tho  frowning  mass  of  Mt.  Lboulemcnts 
Is  seen  on  the  N.  sjjorc.  A  few  miles  beyond  St.  Anne  the  hamlet  of  St. 
Jioch-iles-Aitlnaies  is  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  still  farther  to  the  W.  is  St. 
Jean-Port -.foU,  a  pretty  little  village  about  which  is  laid  the  scene  of 
Do  Gaspe's  popular  romance,  "  Les  Anciens  Canadiens."  The  Isle  aux 
Coudres  is  far  away  towards  the  N.  shore.  The  course  is  laid  in  by  tho 
islet  called  the  Stone  Pillar^  on  which  there  is  a  lighthouse,  and  li  M. 
farther  W.  is  the  insulated  rock  of  the  Wood  Pillar.  The  large  and  pros- 
perous village  of  L'l8let(  1,000  inhabitants)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Goose  Island 
is  passed  on  tho  r.,  and  is  connected  with  Crane  Island  {V  Isle  aux  Grucs) 
by  a  long  alluvial  meadow,  which  produces  rich  hay,  the  total  length 
being  11  M.  Fine  sporting  is  enjoyed  here  \n  the  spring  and  autumn, 
•when  great  flocks  of  snipe,  plover,  and  wild  geese  visit  these  shores  for  a 
breeding-place.  There  is  a  settlement  of  about  150  persons  on  Crano 
Island,  whence  are  obtained  noble  views  of  Cape  Tourmente. 

Duriiig  tho  French  reginio  these  islands  {Les  Isles  de  Ste. -Marguerite)  were  erected 
into  ft  seigniory  and  granted  to  an  officer  of  France,  lie  built  a  uias.xive  stone  houso 
on  Crano  Island,  and  was  afterwards  Itept  there,  in  rigorous  captivity,  by  Madame 
de  Granville.  She  claimed  that  she  was  his  sister,  and  that  ho  was  insane  ;  but  this 
report  was  doubted  by  the  people  of  the  S.  shore,  and  tho  island  was  regarded  with 
dread.    She  kept  him  in  closo  durance  for  many  years,  until  at  last  he  died. 

Beyond  the  S.  shore  village  of  Caj)  St.  Ignace  (400  inhabitants)  the 
steamer  passes  St.  Thomas^  tho  capital  of  Montmagny  County.  This  town 
has  1,650  inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  large  local  trade.  The  College 
Montmagi'.y  is  located  liere,  and  there  is  also  a  convent  and  a  large  and 
conspicuous  church.  The  broad  white  band  of  a  cascade  is  seen  at  the 
foot  of  the  cove,  where  the  Riviere  du  Sud  falls  30  ft.  On  tho  r.,  beyond 
St.  Thomas,  is  seen  a  cluster  of  picturesque  islets,  over  which  the  massive 
Cape  Tourmente  frowns. 


\l 


254      Route  67. 


GUOrf.SE  ISLE. 


"  At  Ion(fth  tln'y  opy  \\\^\^c  Toiirnipiitc,  Hullrn-browod, 
Itiitlic  his  lijilil  tVircliciKi  ill  ii  (lUMsinir  ci  ,u(l ; 
Till'  Tittkii  of  till-  lotly  <-ii|ii>s  that  ^Iciiiii 
III  Ion;;  siK  ('o.xIdii  down  the  nii^hlv  htrcuin  ; 
Whi'ii,  io  I  Orleans  nniTtfi's  to  tlir  >i;ilit, 
Aitil  wooils  ami  iiieiidows  tloat  in  lii|uid  li;;ht ; 
lliidu  Niituru  dolTs  her  Havii;;i>  nioiintuiii  dress, 
And  all  her  stiTiiiii'SM  melts  to  joveliiu-ss. 
On  uitlier  hand  stretelj  fields  of  richest  (?reen, 
Willi  KlitteriiiK  village  spin-s  ami  groves  hetwecn, 
And  snow-whlto  cots  udorn  the  fertile  pluiii."' 

Orosse  Isle  formerly  ajipiTtaincHl  to  the  I'rsiilines,  nnd  is  2^  M.  lonp. 
On  its  gmywiicivc  lcil<,a's  is  the  great  Quarantine  of  Canada,  wlierc  enii- 
j.rrant-ships  are  detained  until  thoroughly  inspected  and  purified.  Tlie 
island  is  a  vast  tomb,  so  many  have  been  the  emigrants  who  have  readied 
these  shores  only  to  die,  jwisoned  in  the  filthy  and  crowded  ships,  poorly 
fed  and  rarely  ministered  unto.  The  Quarantine-station  is  occupied  by 
medical  and  police  forces,  and  is  under  a  rigid  code  of  rules. 

The  next  town  is  liirthier,  ftn  ancient  French  jiarish  of  400  inhabitants, 
W.  of  wliich  is  Ik'llechasse  Island,  composed  of  high,  steej),  and  bare  gray- 
-wacke  rocks.  On  the  N.  are  Keaux  Island  (150  ft.  Jiigh)  and  Madame 
Island,  both  of  which  are  covered  with  trees.  St.  Valicr  is  beyond  IJelle- 
chasse,  and  is  a  place  of  200  inhabitants,  near  which  large  deposits  of  bog 
iron-ore  have  been  found.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  (see  Itoutc  71)  is  now 
approached,  on  the  r.,  and  over  it  is  seen  the  peak  of  Mt.  St.  Anne. 
Nearly  opposite  St.  John  (on  the  Orleans  shore)  is  St.  Michel,  a  lumbcr- 
■worklng  town  of  700  inhabitants,  in  whose  spacious  churcli  are  some 
])aintings  for  which  a  high  value  is  claimed:  St.  Clara,  by  MuriUo(?)  ; 
St.  .Jerome,  Boucher ;  the  Crucifixion,  Jiomanelli ;  the  Death  of  the  Vir- 
gin, Gouhj ;  St.  liviino,  Philippe  de  Chnmpaync ;  the  Flagellation,  ChuUy. 
C  M.  beyond  St.  Michel  is  Beaumont,  n  village  of  GOO  inhabitants,  oi)[»o- 
site  Patrick's  Hole,  on  the  Orleans  shore.  The  settlements  now  grow 
thicker  on  either  shore,  and  in  about  6  M.  the  steamship  passes  the  W. 
end  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and  opens  the  grandest  **  view  on  the  route. 
On  the  r.  is  the  m.ajestic  ]Montmorenci  Fall,  on  the  1.  the  rugged  heights 
of  Point  Levi  and  St.  Joseph,  and  in  front  the  stately  clifls  of  Quebec, 
crowned  with  batteries,  and  flowering  into  spires. 


I» 


new 
ura 

alty 

lore 

I.St. 

and 

tbo 

Llv- 

bre, 

uOIl- 

eavo 

Ort,i, 

«.'ek. 
K'Uf, 
r  for 
•  thu 
rivur 


I 


i 


I 


&I 


QITKIMJC. 

I  CaiJirlui'ttlhufml  l'...i. 
'<2  f7f//f/fff/n  I'.l. 
3  U't\sln/ft/i  I'Iniiilt  J'...». 
*!:  Dritfiii/d'uiu  \\.'\. 

{^  Sf.  .\fo//hnf  ••     nf 

7  Sf.  Stnut'^rr  .'.'.  ...v.- A.i. 

HSf.lUf, ;' .  .  r;i. 

Virloiirs.  \\'\, 

Ul  (Mil'hliii/iM  Ihfoit  I'i.H. 

II  Sfniiiuirr  \,.'\. 
12  Lmnlllimernhf  ,  ICa. 

\\f/rm/u,r  ..:  V.i. 

15  (>im/Si!iki'!<  ' ..  I'.**. 

Ml  ^  )>iitimfi'fmiol  :  K  ,1. 

17  (iinnvl  IhinfufiiL  Wl. 

18  Mtiihh- ...  " C-.I. 

ID  J'^/r/i?  ^V/rf//'  l/«J. 

*i(l  }hj'li4win>f  IIpiis,  F.II. 

21  OuriJhisi-    .    i*:.i. 

tMfyjh  Schrol  lU.j 

2*1  /ftrtnu'i^  (ifirjt'if  .  wJt*  j 

25  Cf/.fhimflfi/j^f  r.i>. 

36  rhoniphm  .UM'  V,  1. 1 

27  ./a/*7      R5.'; 

28  M'^//^..  .)^/«^A/;*^/?/.  lis. 

'y^Si.Johu.sC'au.    i>.:i. 

V^Vrcsevll    • KIM. 

3:w^/M      - *-•^• 

3f  Palucn  .^ K.:5. 

%yt  Si  Louis llud       E.4. 

37  ./rduiiyf-ui/iunas    .  K..V 


\i-^ 


»^ 


a^ 


1 


QUEBEC. 


r^oute  CS.      255 


68.  Quebec. 


»^* 


^^i 


X 


Arrival.  —  Tf  tho  traveller  has  much  bagj»apfe,  it  13  best  to  take  a  carriage  or 
the  hotel  ouiuibus  to  the  Upper  Town.  The  cnlir.ke  is  not  adapted  for  carrying  lug- 
gage. 

Hotels.  —  The  *  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  large  house  near  the  Durham  Terrace, 
kept  by  Willis  llussell,  an  American  gentleman.  It  acconuuodatcs  5<)iJ  guests,  and 
charges  $  2-50-3.50  a  day.  Tiic  llussell  House  is  a  large  modern  liotel,  near  the  St. 
Louis,  and  under  the  same  management.  Its  terms  ui-e  lower  tliau  those  of  tlie  St. 
Louis.  The  Albion  Hotel  is  on  I'il-ico  St.,  and  charges  S2.50  a  day.  Henchey's 
Hotel  (on  St.  Anne  St.,  opposite  the  Anglican  Cathedral)  is  quiet  and  modenite,  for 
gentlemen  travelling  e/i  ifarfon.  The  Mouiitain-IIill  House,  on  Mountuin-llill  St. , 
and  Blanchard's  Hotel,  in  the  Lower  Town,  opposite  Notre  Dame  dcs  Victoires,  are 
second-class  houses,  charging  about  S  1-50  a  day. 

There  are  several  good  bourdiug-houses  in  the  Upper  Town,  among  which  are 
those  of  the  Misses  Leonard,  3  St.  Louis  St. ;  Mrs.  McDonell,  12  St.  Louis  St  ;  Miss 
Lane,  44  St.  Anne  St. ;  Mrs.  Uoyce,  1  Garden  St.  Comfortable  quarters  may  be  ob- 
tained at  these  houses  for  about  S 10  a  week. 

Carriages  in  every  variety  may  be  procured  at  the  livery-stables,  and  large 
numbers  of  tliem  are  kept  at  the  stands  near  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  in  front  of  the  Ca- 
thedral, and  beyond  St.  John's  Gate.  The  carriages  iu  the  Lower  Town  arc  less  ele- 
gint  and  much  less  expensive  than  those  within  the  walls.  The  rates  for  excur.sious 
in  the  suburbs  in  summer  are  from  §3  to  84  for  i-3  i)crsons  (to  Moutmorenci 
Falls,  Lorette,  Cap  Kouge,  etc.).  During  the  autumn  the  rates  are  reduced.  The 
faWeA«-drivers  of  the  Lower  Town  usually  demand  S  2  for  carrying  1-2  persons  to 
the  outer  suburban  rei^orts.  The  cnleclie  is  a  .lingular  and  usually  very  shabby- 
looking  vehicle,  i^emhed  on  two  high  v.b^els,  with  the  driver  sitting  on  a  narrow 
ledge  in  front.  It  is  drawn  by  a  homely  but  hardy  little  horse,  and  is  usually  driven 
by  a  French  Canadian,  who  urges  the  horse  forward  by  the  sharp  dis.syUabic  cry, 
"''Mnrche-tlonc .' " 

Horse-Cars  run  botweon  St.  Ours,  St.  Sauveur,  and  the  Champlain  ^larket, 
every  15  minutes,  traversing  St.  Joseph,  St.  Paul,  and  °-t.  Peter  Sts.  The  fare 
is  5c. 

ReadlnS'Rooms.  —  Tho  elegant  library  of  *'"»  Quebec  Literary  and  His- 
torical Society  (in  Morrin  College)  is  courteously  opened  to  the  visits  of  strangers. 
The  Library  of  Parliament  is  also  accessible,  and  is  finely  arranged.  The  Instititt 
Canatlien  is  at  11  St.  John  St.,  and  tho  Y.  M.  C.  Association  has  rooms  at  24  Fa- 
brique  St.  (near  the  Cathedral). 

Post-Office  at  the  corner  of  Buade  and  Du  Fort  Sts.  According  to  the  new 
rules  of  the  Canadian  postal  service,  stamps  are  not  sold  at  the  post-oifices,  but  are 
kept  on  sale  by  the  booksellers. 

The  most  attractive  shops  are  on  Fabriquc  and  St.  John  Sts.,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  French  Cathedral. 

KalMvays.  —  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  has  its  terminal  station  at  Point  Levi, 
317  M.  from' Portland,  425  M.  from  Boston,  and  586  M.  from  Xew  York.  Pasjongers 
tike  the  Grand  Trunk  ferry-steamor  near  the  Champlain  Market.  The  North  Shore 
lliilway  is  now  being  built  from  Quebec  to  Montreal  along  the  N.  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  Quebec  &  Oo.sford  Railway  is  of  most  primitive  construction,  and 
runs  occasional  trains  from  its  terminal  station  in  the  Banlieue  for  20-25  M.  up  the 
Tallcy  of  the  St.  Charles. 

Steamships.  —  The  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line  leave  every  Saturday  for  Liv- 
erpool (fares,  $80,  $70,  and  .'$25) ;  also,  once  weekly  in  summer,  to  Gla.sgow  (fares, 
S  60  and  S  24).  Tho  Dominion  Line  sends  a  weekly  steamship  to  Liverpool  (fare, 
SCO  and  $21),  and  tho  Temperley  Line  despatches  a  fortnightly  steamship  to  Lon- 
don (fares,  $60  and  $24).  Tho  vessels  of  the  Quebec  &  Gulf  Ports  S.  S.  Co.  leave 
every  week  for  Father  Point,  Gasp6,  Perc6,  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  Miramichi  ports, 
Shediac,  and  Pictou  (.«ee  page  239).  Steamers  for  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  (see 
Route  72)  and  for  the  Saguenay  River  (see  Route  73)  leave  several  times  a  week. 
The  Portneuf  leaves  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday  for  Cap  Sant«5,  Platon,  Portneuf, 
St.  Emelic,  "and  St.  Jean  Deschaillons.  The  Montmorenci  leaves  semi-weekly  for 
Chateau  Richer,  St.  Famille,  St.  Anne,  and  Grande  Rivii-re.  Steamers  run  to  tho 
Isle  of  Orleans  three  times  daily,  and  the  Point-I<evi  ferry-boats  cross  the  river 
every  15  minutes. 


; 


ii ' 


N 


25 G      Route  GS. 


QUEBEC. 


Quebec,  "the  Gibraltar  of  Ainorica,"  and  the  socond  city  in  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada,  i-^  situated  on  a  rocky  promontory  at  tlic  confluence  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Ciiarles  Itivers,  180  M.  from  Montreal,  and  over 
400  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  has  about  75,000  inhabitants, 
■with  6  banks,  6  Masonic  lodges,  and  numerous  newspapers  in  the  Trench 
and  the  English  langnges.  Tiie  chief  br.siness  of  the  city  is  in  the  hand- 
ling and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  Avliich  $5-7,000,000  worth  is  sent 
away  annually.  There  are  long  lines  of  coves  along  the  St.  Lawrence 
shore,  above  the  city,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the 
vast  rafts  which  come  down  from  the  northern  forests.  A  very  consid- 
erable export  trade  in  grain  is  also  done  here,  and  the  various  supplies  of 
the  populous  counties  to  the  N.  and  E.  are  drawn  from  this  point.  Ship- 
building is  a  leading  industry,  and  many  vessels  of  the  largest  size  are 
launched  every  year  from  the  shipyards  on  the  St.  Charles.  Of  late  years 
several  important  manufactories  have  been  established  in  the  Lower  Town, 
and  the  city  is  expected  to  derive  great  benefit  from  the  convergence  here 
of  several  lines  of  railwaj',  connecting  Avith  the  transatlantic  steamships, 
and  making  it  a  depot  of  immigration  and  of  freighting.  The  introduc- 
tion of  an  abundant  and  powerful  water  supply  from  Lake  St.  Charles  and 
the  establishment  of  a  fire-brigade  and  alarm-telegraph  have  preserved  the 
city,  during  late  years,  from  a  recurrence  of  the  terrible  fires  with  which 
it  was  formerly  scourged. 

Quebec  is  built  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  bounded  by  the  two 
rivers  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  the  Upper  Town 
and  Lower  Town,  the  former  standing  on  an  enwalled  and  strongly  forti- 
fied bluff  350  ft.  high,  while  the  latter  is  built  on  the  contracted  strands 
between  the  cliffs  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and 
often  very  steep,  and  the  houses  are  generally  built  of  cut  stone,  in  a  style 
of  severe  simplicity.  It  is  the  most  quaint,  picturesque,  and  mediaival- 
looking  city  in  America,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  suburbs. 

"  Take  mountain  and  plain,  sinuous  river,  and  broad,  tranquil  watoi-e,  stately 
sliip  and  tiny  boat,  pontic  hill  and  shady  valley,  bold  headland  and  rich,  fruitful 
fields,  frowninR  battlement  and  cheerful  villa,  plitterini?  dome  and  rural  pjiire,  fiow- 
ory  garden  and  sombre  forest,  —  group  them  all  into  the  choicest  picture  of  ideal 
beauty  your  fancy  can  create,  arch  it  over  witli  a  cloudless  slvy,  light  it  up  with  a 
radiant  sun,  and  lest  the  sheen  should  be  too  dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  liglited  haze 
over  all,  to  soften  the  lines  and  perfect  the  repose,  —  you  will  then  have  seen  Quebec 
on  this  September  morning."    (Euot  Warhl'rton.) 

"Queliec  recalls  Angoulemc  to  my  mind  :  in  the  upper  city,  stairways,  narrow 
ctreets,  ancient  houses  on  the  verge  of  the  dilT;  in  the  lower  city,  the  new  fortunes, 
commerce,  workmen  ;  —  in  both,  many  shops  and  much  activity."'    (M.  Sand  ) 

"  The  scenic  beauty  of  Quebec  has  been  the  theme  of  general  eulogy.  The  majestic 
appearance  of  Cape  Diamond  and  the  fortiiications,  —  the  cupolas  and  minarets,  like 
those  of  an  Eastern  city,  blazing  and  sparkling  in  the  sun,  —  the  loveliness  of  the 
panorama,  —  the  noble  basin,  like  a  sheet  of  purest  silver,  in  which  might  ride  witli 
safety  a  hundred  sail  of  the  line,  —  the  graceful  meandering  of  the  river  St.  Charles, 
—  the  numerous  village  spires  on  either  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  —  the  fertile  fields 
dotted  with  innumerable  cottages,  the  abodes  of  a  rich  and  moral  peasantry,  —  the 


distant  Fails  of  Montmorenci,  —  the 
'Orleans, — and  more  distant  still 


irk-U!:e  scenery  of  Point  Levi,  —  the  beauteous 
uiug  Cape  Tourmontc,  and  the  lofty 


'r' 


t 


;^'9 


^ 


1  the  Do- 
nence  of 
Jiud  over 
liibltants, 
le  French 
the  hand- 
1  is  sent 
fiwrence 
>n  of  tlie 
y  con si d- 
pplies  of 
t.    Sln'p- 
pize  are 
i^te  years 
er  Town, 
ncQ  here 
finishlps, 
ntroduc- 
irles  and 
>i-ved  the 
h  which 

■  the  two 
f r  Town 
:;Iy  forti- 
strands 
ccd,  and 
1  a  stylo 
fdiajval- 


',  statoly 
fruitful 
re,  flow- 
of  ideal 
)  with  a 
ted  haze 
1  Quebec 

narrow 
JrtuQes, 
D) 

tnnjestic 
ets,  like 
1  of  the 
tie  with 
.Charles, 
e  fields 
,  —  the 
I  u  tonus 
le  lofty 


^ 


QUEBEC. 


Route  GS.      257 


•^ 


•'^'9 


% 

i 

1 

i 


ranfjc  of  purple  mountains  of  the  most  picturesque  forms  which  bound  the  prospect, 
unite  to  form  a  coup  (Vail,  which,  witliout  exaggeration,  is  scarcely  to  be  surpassed 
in  any  part  of  the  world.''    (Hawkins.  ) 

"  I  rubbed  my  eyes  to  be  sure  that  1  was  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  was  not 
entering  one  of  tho.<o  portals  whicli  sometimes  adorn  tlie  frontispiece  of  old  black- 
letter  volumes.  I  thought  it  would  be  a  good  place  to  read  Froissart's  Chronicles. 
It  was  such  a  reminiscence  of  the  3Iiddle  Ages  as  Scott's  novels. 

"  Too  much  has  not  been  said  about  the  scenery  of  Quebec.  The  fortifications  of 
Cape  Diamond  are  omnipresent.  You  travel  10,  20,  30  31.  up  or  down  the  river'a 
banks,  you  ramble  15  M.  among  the  hills  on  either  side,  and  then,  when  you  have 
long  since  forgotten  them,  perchance  slept  on  them  by  the  way,  at  a  turn  of  the 

road  or  of  your  body,  there  they  are  still,  with  their  geometry  against  the  sky 

No  wonder  if  Jaques  Cartier's  pilot  exclaimed  in  Norman-French,  Que  bed  ( '  What 
a  peak  I ')  when  he  saw  this  cape,  as  some  suppose.  Every  modern  traveller  invol- 
untarily uses  a  similar  expression The  view  from  Cape  Diamond  has  been 

compared  by  European  tr-wellers  with  the  most  remarkable  views  of  a  similar  kind 
in  Europe,  such  as  from  Edinburgh  Castle,  Gibraltar,  Cintra,  and  others,  and  pre- 
ferred by  many.  A  main  peculiarity  in  this,  compared  with  other  views  which  I 
have  beheld,  is  that  it  is  from  the  ramparts  of  a  fortified  city,  and  not  from  a  soli- 
tary and  majestic  river  cape  alone  that  this  view  is  obtained I  still  remember 

the  harbor  far  beneath  me,  sparkling  like  silver  in  the  sun,  —  the  answering  head- 
l;ind.s  of  Point  Levi  on  the  S.  E. ,  —  the  frowning  Cape  Tourmente  abruptly  bounding 
the  seaward  view  far  in  the  N.  E. ,  —the  villages  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg  on  the 
N.,  —  and  farther  \V.  the  distant  Val  Cartier,  sparkling  with  white  cottages,  hardly 
removed  by  distance  through  the  clear  air,  —  not  to  mention  a  few  biue  mountains 
along  the  horizon  in  that  direction.  You  look  out  from  the  ramparts  of  the  citadel 
beyond  the  frontiers  of  civilization.  Yonder  small  group  of  hills,  according  to  tiie 
guide-book,  forms  '  the  portiil  of  the  wilds  which  are  trodden  only  by  the  feet  of  the 
Indian  hunters  as  far  as  Hudson's  Bay.'  "    (Thoreau.) 

"  There  is  no  city  in  America  more  famous  in  the  annals  of  history  than  Quebec, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Europe  more  picturesquely  situated.  \Vhil.«t  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  reminds  one  of  the  unrivalled  views  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  airy  site 
of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  Innspruck  and  Edinburgh.  Quebec  may  be  best 
described  by  supposing  that  an  ancient  Norman  fortress  of  two  centuries  ago  had 
been  encased  in  amber,  transported  by  magic  to  Canada,  and  placed  on  the  summit 
of  Cape  Diamond." 

"  Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  place.  A  mili- 
tary tow^n,  containing  about  20,000  inhabitants  ;  most  compactly  and  permanently 
built,  — stone  its  sole  material ;  environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts,  by  walls 
and  gates,  and  defended  by  numerous  heavy  cannon  ;  .  .  .  .  founded  upon  a  rock, 
and  in  its  highest  parts  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country;  3-400  miles  from 
the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent,  and  yet  displaying  fleets  of  foreign  mer- 
chantmen in  its  fine,  capacious  bay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle  of  a  crowded  sea- 
port ;  its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  winding  up  and  down  almost  mountainous 
declivities  ;  situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts  of  Europe,  exhibiting  in  its 
environs  the  beauty  of  a  European  capital,  and  yet  in  winter  smarting  with  the  cold 
of  Siberia ;  governed  by  a  people  of  different  language  and  habits  from  the  mass  of 
the  population,  opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving  that  population  without  taxes, 
and  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  privilege,  civil  and  religious  :  such  are  the  prominent 
features  which  strike  a  stranger  in  the  city  of  Quebec.  A  seat  of  ancient  Dominion, 
—  now  hoary  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries,  —  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
French  empire  in  the  west,  —  lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and  of 
illustrious  commanders,  —  throned  on  a  rock,  and  defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance 
of  war !  Who  could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion  I  Who  in  Canada  has 
not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the  water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec."  (Prof. 
Silliman;  in  1820.) 

•'  Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec.  A  fortress  and  a  com- 
mercial city  together,  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  rock  like  the  nest  of  an  eagle, 
while  her  ve8.sels  are  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  the  ocean  ;  an  American  city 
inhabited  by  French  colonists,  governed  by  England,  and  garrisoned  by  Scotch 
regiments  ;  a  city  of  the  Middle  Ages  by  most  of  its  ancient  institutions,  while  it  is 
subject  to  all  the  combinations  of  modern  constitutional  government ;  a  European 
city  by  its  civilization  and  its  habits  of  refinement,  and  still  clo.'^e  by  the  remnants 
of  the  Indian  tribes  and  the  barren  mts.  of  the  North ;  a  city  with  about  the  same 

Q 


258      Jioute  OS. 


QUEBEC. 


latitude  aa  Paris, ■while  surocssively  combining  the  torrid  climateof  southern  regions 
with  the  severities  of  an  liypcrl)orean  winter;  a  oity  at  the  same  time  ('atlu)lic  and 
Protestant,  where  the  labors  of  our  (French)  miiisions  are  still  iiniuterrupteil  iilonR- 
Bide  of  the  undertakings  of  the  lUble  Society,  and  where  the  .I«'suits,  driven  out  of 
our  own  country,  find  refuge  under  the  a^gis  of  British  Puritanism."  (X.  Marmikr's 
Lettres  sur  fAmirique,  18(J0.) 

"  Leaving  the  citadel,  we  are  once  more  in  the  European  Middle  Ages.  Gates  and 
posterns,  cranky  stops  that  lead  up  to  lofty,  gabled  houses,  with  sharp  French  roofs 
of  burnished  tin,  like  those  of  Li^ge;  prot-essions  of  the  Host ;  altars  decked  witli 
flowers  ;  statues  of  the  Virgin  ;  sabots ;  blouses  ;  and  tlie  scarlet  of  the  13riti.«h  lines- 
man,—  all  these  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  ihat  are  graced  with  many 
a  Cotentin  lace  cap,  and  all  within  40  miles  of  the  down-east,  Yankee  State  of  Maine. 

It  is  not  far  from  New  England  to  Old  France There  has  been  no  dying  out 

of  the  race  among  the  French  Canadians.  They  number  twenty  times  the  thousands 
that  they  did  ItiO  years  ago.  The  American  soil  has  left  tlieir  physical  typ»^,  re- 
ligion, language,  and  laws  absolutely  untoiudied.  They  herd  together  in  their 
rambling  villages,  dance  to  the  Lddle  after  mass  on  Sundays,  —  as  gJiyly  as  once  did 
their  Norman  sires,  —  and  keep  up  the  fleur-iU-lys  and  the  memory  of  Montcalm. 
More  French  than  the  F^Jinch  are  the  Lower  Canada  habitans.  The  pulse-beat  of  the 
continent  finds  no  echo  ht  -e.''    (Sir  Charlks  Dilke.) 

"Curious  old  Quebec!  ."all  the  cities  of  the  continent  of  America  the  most 
quaint!  It  is  a  peak  thickly  populated  !  a  gigantic  rock,  escarped,  echeloned,  and 
at  the  same  time  smoothed  off  tr  hold  firmly  on  its  summit  the  houses  and  castles, 
although  according  to  the  ordinary  laws  of  matter  they  ought  to  fall  off  like  a  bur- 
den placed  on  a  camel's  back  without  a  fastening.  Yet  the  [houses  and  castles  hold 
there  as  if  they  were  nailed  down.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  some  feet  of  land  have 
been  reclaimed  from  the  river,  and  that  is  for  tlie  streets  of  the  Lower  Town.  Que- 
bec is  a  dried  shred  of  the  Middle  Ages,  hung  high  up  near  the  North  Pole,  far  from 
the  beaten  paths  of  the  European  tourists,  ....  a  curiosity  without  parallel  on 
this  side  of  the  ocean.  We  traversed  each  street  as  we  would  have  turned  the  leaves 
of  a  book  of  engravings,  contalnin<^  a  new  painting  on  eacli  page The  local- 
ity ought  to  be  scrupulously  preserved  antique.  Let  modern  progress  be  carried 
elsewhere !  When  Quebec  has  taken  the  pains  to  go  and  perch  herself  away  up 
near  Hudson's  Bay,  it  would  be  cruel  and  unfitting  to  dare  to  harass  her  with  new 
ideas,  and  to  speak  of  doing  away  with  the  narrow  and  tortuous  streets  that  charm 
all  travellers,  in  order  to  seek  conformity  with  the  fantastic  ideas  of  comfort  in 
TOgue  in  the  19th  century."    (Henry  Ward  Beecher.) 

"  On  I'a  dit,  Quebec  est  un  promontoire,  c'est  avant  tout  une  forteresse  reniarqua- 
ble.  La  citadelle  s't^l^ve  au-dessus  de  la  ville  et  mire  dans  les  eaux  du  fieuve  sea 
cn^neaux  bt^ants,  Le  voyageur  s'etonne,  apres  avoir  admire  ks  bords  verdoyants  et 
tleuria  du  Saint-Laurent,  les  forets  aux  puissantes  ramures  pleines  de  mystcres  et 
d'ombre,  les  riantes  vallees  pleines  de  bruits  et  de  rayons,  de  rcncontrer  tout  A  coup 
rette  ville  qui  senible  venir  d'Europe  et  qui  serait  moins  ctrange  sur  les  bords  du 
llhin  aux  dramatiques  legendes.    Mais  Quebec  n'est  pas  une  ville  ou  I'ctranger  vieuno 

f  e  distraire  ec  chercher  d'oubli  un  the&tre  iV  grands  luxes,  a  grands  spectacles 

C'est  peut-etre  Ut  seule  ville  du  monde  ou  les  gens  aient  droit  de  se  plaindre  et  o^ 
ils  ne  se  plaignent  pivs.  J'ai  ccrit  que  Quebec  est  une  fortere.«se  remarquable; 
clle  tl6ve  son  front  sujierbe  et  se  cambre  avec  fierte  dans  sa  robe  de  pierre.  Elle  a 
conserve  un  air  des  temps  chevaleresques,  elle  a  soutenu  des  si  ges,  elle  a  recju  son 
Lapteme  du  feu.  En  lungeant  ces  vieux  murs,  en  admirant  cette  forteresse  clevie 
comme  un  nid  d'aigle  sur  un  roc  sourcilleux,  on  se  croiruit  dans  une  ville  du  moyen 
fige,  au  temps  des  fiu-tions  et  des  guerres  civiles,  une  de  ces  villes  acroutumees  aux 
bruits  des  armes,  aux  fanfares  et  aux  bymnes  guerriers,  mais  tout  est  silenrieux  dans 
la  nuit  sereine,  et  vous  n'entendez  meme  pas  le  pace  cadence  d'une  sentinelle. 
Dans  cette  ville  et  aux  alentours,  que  d'evcnements  out  ctt-  accompli !  Quelle  lutte 
pleine  de  poesio  hi'roique  I  Que  de  vicissitudes !  et  quel  courage  !  En  quelque  lieu 
que  vous  alliez,  a  la  basse-ville,  sur  le  chemin  Saint-Louis  ou  Saiute-Foye,  sur  lea 
rives  de  la  riviere  Saint-Charles,  tout  respire  un  parfum  historique,  tout  parle  a  vos 
yeux,  tout  a  une  voix  qui  exprinie  quelque  chose  dp  grand  et  de  triste,  et  les  pierrcs 
lueinea  eont  autour  de  vous  comme  les  fiEUitomes  qui  reflcchisseut  le  passe." 


L 


f>^: 


•4^y* 


QUEBEC. 


Route  GS.      259 


t 


r^. 


t 


The  Durham  Terrace  is  on  the  rivcrward  edge  of  the  Tapper  Town,  and 
Rtnnds  on  the  buttresses  and  phitform  fonnerly  occupied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louis,  which  was  built  by  Champlaiu  in  1G20.  The  old  Cliuteau 
was  a  massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  lonpr,  used  for  a  fortress,  prison,  and 
governor's  palace,  and  it  stood  until  1834,  when  it  was  ruined  by  fire. 
The  terrace  is  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a  *view  of  surpass- 
ing beauty.  Immediately  below  are  the  sinuous  streets  of  the  Lower 
Town,  with  its  wharves  projecting  into  the  stream.  On  one  side  are  the 
lofty  fortified  blufls  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St.  Charles  River 
winds  away  down  'ts  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of  Beauport 
stretch  off  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  while  beyond  arc  seen 
the  farms  of  L' Ange  Gardicn,  extending  towards  the  heights  of  St.  Fereol. 
Vessels  of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the  broad  basin  and  the 
river,  and  the  rich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in  mid-stream  below. 
Beyond  and  over  all  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Laurentian  range,  with  Cape 
Tourmente  towering  over  the  river  far  in  the  distance.  The  Terrace  is 
the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  a  pleasant  scene  in  the 
late  afternoon  or  on  pleasant  Sundays.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Terrace 
is  a  plain  stone  structure  called  the  Old  Chateau  (built  in  1779,  for  the 
British  governors),  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  Laval  Normal  and  Mo<lel 
School  (5  professors).  In  its  gateway  is  a  large  stone  bearing  carvings  of 
a  Maltese  cross  and  the  date  1G47,  done  by  order  of  Gov.  Montraagny,  a 
Knight  of  Malta,  in  1647. 

"  There  is  not  in  tlie  world  a  nobler  ouMook  thau  that  from  the  Terrace  at  Que- 
bec. You  stand  upon  a  rock  overhanging  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  the 
guard-ships'  uiasts.  Acre  upon  acre  of  timber  conies  tloating  down  the  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadian  boat-songs  just  reaching  you  upon  the  heights ;  and 
beneath  you  are  Heets  of  great  ships,  English,  German,  Frencli,  and  Dutch,  embark- 
ing the  timber  from  the  tloating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  nowhere  to  be 
seen."    (Sir  Charles  Dilke.) 

"  On  a  summer  evening,  when  the  Terrace  is  covered  witli  loungers,  and  when 
Point  Levi  is  sprinkled  with  liglits  and  the  Lower  Town  has  illuminated  its  narrow 
streets  and  its  long  dormer-windows,  while  the  lively  murmur  of  business  is  ascend- 
ing and  tlie  eye  can  discern  the  great  shadows  of  the  ships  Ix'ating  into  port,  the 
scene  is  one  of  marvellous  animation.  It  is  then,  above  all,  that  one  is  struck  with 
the  resemblance  between  Quebec  and  the  Euroi)ean  cities  ;  it  might  be  called  a  city 
of  Franco  or  Italy  transplanted ;  the  physiognomy  is  the  same,  and  daylight  is 
needed  to  mark  the  alteration  of  features  produced  by  the  passage  to  America."' 

"  At  a  later  era,  when,  under  the  protection  of  the  Fri-nch  kings,  the  Provinces 
had  acquired  the  rudiments  of  military  strength  and  power,  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis 
was  remarkable  as  having  been  the  site  wlience  the  French  governors  exenised  an 
innncnse  sovereignty,  extending  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  lAwrence,  along  the  shores  of 
that  noble  river,  its  magnificent  lakes,  and  down  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  to  its 
outlet  below  New  Orleans.  The  banner  which  first  streamed  from  the  battlements 
of  Quebec  was  displayed  from  a  cliain  of  forts  which  protected  the  settlements 
throughout  this  vast  extent  of  country,  keeping  the  English  Colonies  in  constant 
alarm,  and  securing  the  fidelity  of  the  Indian  nations.  During  this  period  the  coun- 
cil clmmber  of  the  castle  was  the  scene  of  many  a  midnight  vigil ,  many  a  long  delib- 
eration and  deep-laid  project,  to  free  the  continent  from  the  intrusion  of  the  ancient 
rival  of  France,  and  assert  throughout  the  suj)remacy  of  the  Gallic  lily.  At  another 
period,  subsequent  to  the  surrender  of  Quebec  to  the  British  arms,  and  until  the 
recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States,  the  extent  of  empire  of  which 
the  Castle  of  Quebec  was  the  principal  seat  couiprelieuded  the  whole  Amuricau  con- 
tinent north  of  Mexico."    (Hawkins.) 


2 GO      Route  CS. 


QUEBEC. 


f 


I'i 


Ml 


si:  r; 


t   i: 


;■!  i( 


!    i.    I  . 


Tlic  Anglican  Cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  the  nnclcnt  Rccollct  Con- 
vent and  gardens,  and  Is  a  phiin  and  massive  buildinjr,  135  ft.  lonp,  witli 
a  spire  152  ft.  high.  It  was  built  by  the  British  government  in  1803-4, 
nnd  received  Its  superb  communion-service,  altar-cloths,  and  books  as  a 
present  from  King  George  III.  There  is  a  chime  of  8  bells  in  the  tower, 
Avhich  makes  pleasant  music  on  Sundays;  and  the  windows  are  of  rich 
stained  glass.  The  interior  is  plain  and  the  roof  is  supported  on  Corinthian 
]>illars  and  pilasters,  while  over  the  chancel  hang  the  old  Crimean  colors 
of  the  G9th  Regiment  of  the  British  army.  Under  the  altar  lie  the  remains 
of  Charles  Lennox,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Lennox,  and  Aubigny,  and  Gov- 
ernr r-General  of  Canada,  who  died  of  hydrophobia  in  1819.  There  are 
numerous  mural  monuments  in  the  cathedral,  and  in  the  chancel  are  the 
mc:r,.-irials  to  the  early  Anglican  Bishops  of  Quebec,  Jacob  Mountain  and 
Charles  James  Stewart.  The  former  consists  of  a  bust  of  the  Bishop, 
alongside  of  which  Is  a  statue  of  Religion,  both  in  relief,  in  white  marble, 
on  a  background  of  black  marble. 

Dr.  Mountain  was  in  the  presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a 
doubt  as  to  whom  he  should  appoint  as  bishop  of  the  new  See  of  Quebec. 
Said  the  doctor,  "  If  your  Majesty  had  faith,  there  would  be  no  difliculty." 
"  How  so?  "  said  the  king.  Mountain  answered,  "  If  you  had  faith,  you 
would  say  to  this  Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would 
bo  done."    It  was. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Durham  Terrace  is  a  pretty  little  park 
called  the  Place  tVArmes,  beyond  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  court-house, 
which  was  recently  destroyed  by  fire.  Beyond  the  court-house  (on  St. 
Louis  St.)  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  are  the  old-time  buildings 
of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel  and  the  Commissariat  and  Crown  Lands  Depart- 
ments. The  latter  is  known  as  the  Kent  House,  from  the  fact  that 
Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent  (father  of  Queen  Victoria),  dwelt  here 
during  his  long  sojourn  at  Quebec.  Opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a 
quaint  little  building  (now  used  as  a  barber-shop),  in  which  Montcalm 
held  his  last  council  of  war.  St.  Louis  St.  runs  out  through  the  ramparts, 
traversing  a  quiet  and  solidly  built  quarter,  and  is  prolonged  beyond  the 
walls  as  tb-^  Grand  AUee. 

The  *  Market  Square  is  near  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  pre- 
sents a  curious  and  intereeting  appearance  on  market  mornings,  when  the 
French  peasantry  bring  In  their  farm-produce  for  sale. 

"  A  few  steps  had  brought  them  to  the  market-square  in  front  of  the  cathedral, 
where  a  little  belated  tr  ,fflc  stlU  lingered  in  the  few  old  peasant-women  hovering 
over  baskets  of  fiuch  fruits  and  vegetables  as  had  long  been  out  of  season  in  the 
States,  and  the  housekeepers  and  servants  cheapening  these  wares.  A  sentry  moved 
nicohanically  up  and  down  before  the  high  portal  of  the  Jesuit  Barracks,  over  the 
arch  of  which  were  still  the  letters  I.  II.  S.  carved  long  ago  on  the  keystone  ;  and 
the  ancient  edifice  itself,  with  its  yellow  stucco  front  and  its  grated  windows,  had 
every  right  to  be  a  monastery  turned  barracks  in  France  or  Italy.  A  row  of  quaint 
Btone  houses  —  inns  and  shops  —  formed  the  upper  siile  of  the  square,  while  the 
luodern  buildings  of  the  Rue  Fabrique  en  the  lower  side  might  serve  very  well  for 


■fk*^ 


«^ 


^ 


QUEBEC. 


P.oiUc  CS.     2G1 


I 

T 


J. 


( 
•^ 


that  show  of  Iniprovomenl  whirh  rtrrpcns  tlio  penilmpnt  of  tlio  nriRhlmrlnK  antiquity 
and  dt'Cfiy  in  Liitiii  towns.  Am  for  tlio  catht'drul,  whirh  faced  tin;  rf)nv«Mit  from 
across  tlic  sfiuare,  it  was  as  cold  and  torpid  a  liit  of  Koimissance  as  could  lie  found 
in  Home  itsflf.  A  red-coated  soldier  or  two  passod  throunh  the  sctuare  :  three  or 
four  neat  '"ttlo  French  policemen  lounged  about  in  Mue  unifnrns  and  flaring 
havelocks ;  sonie  walnut-fm-cd,  blue-eyed  old  citiz-ens  and  jn'iusants  sat  upnu  thu 
thresholds  of  the  row  of  old  houses  and  jrazed  dreamily  throuRh  the  sn»oke  of  their 
pipes  at  the  slight  stir  and  glitter  of  shopping  about  the  fine  stones  of  the  Uuo 
Faltriquc.  An  air  of  serene  disoccupation  pervaded  the  place,  with  which  the 
drivers  of  the  long  rows  of  calashes  and  carriages  in  front  of  the  cathedral  did  not 
discord.  Whenever  a  stniy  American  wandered  into  the  square,  there  was  a  wiM 
flight  of  these  drivers  towards  him,  and  his  person  was  lost  to  sight  amidst  their 

Santomime.  They  did  not  try  to  underbid  each  other,  and  they  were  perfectly  good- 
umorod.  As  soon  as  he  had  made  his  choice,  the  rejected  multitude  returned  to 
their  places  on  the  curbstone,  pursuing  the  successful  asjdrant  witli  inscrutjililo 
jokes  as  he  drove  off,  while  the  horses  went  on  munching  the  contents  of  their 
'leathern  head-bags,  and  tossing  them  into  the  air  to  shake  down  the  lurking  grains 
of  corn."    (IIoWELLs'3  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

On  the  W.  side  of  this  Square  is  the  great  pile  of  buildings  which  were 
begun  in  1646  for  the  Jesuits'  College-  For  some  years  this  structuro 
has  been  deserted,  and  in  a  state  of  dilapidation;  and  it  is  thought  that  it 
will  be  levelled  and  that  on  its  site  and  in  the  spacious  grounds  adjacent 
will  be  founded  a  new  market-house,  although  a  movement  has  been  mede 
to  erect  here  a  superb  Parliament  Building  for  the  Province  of  Quebec. 
The  present  structure  is  a  parallelogram  224  ft.  long  by  200  ft.  wide,  and 
8  stories  high,  whose  quadrangle  is  entered  by  the  lofty  archway  on  tho 
Square. 

The  Jesuits'  College  was  foundef?  in  IG^l,  one  year  before  Harvard  College, 
and  performed  a  noble  work  in  its  day.  It  was  suspended  in  1759  by  Gen. 
Murray,  who  quartered  his  troops  here,  and  in  1809  tlie  property  reverted  to  the 
crown,  on  the  death  of  the  la.>c  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  were  used 
as  barracks  until  the  British  ormies  evacuiited  Canada.  "  From  this  seat  of  piety 
and  learning  i.ssued  tliose  dauntless  missionaries,  who  made  tho  Gospel  known 
over  a  ?pace  of  GOO  leagues,  and  preaclied  the  Christian  faith  from  tlie  St.  Law- 
rence to  the  Missi.ssippi.  In  this  pious  work  many  suffered  death  in  the  mo.-<6 
cruel  form  ;  all  underwent  clanger  and  privation  for  a  scries  of  years,  with  a  coii- 
Btancy  and  patience  that  must  always  command  the  wonder  of  the  historian  and 
the  admiration  of  posterity." 

The  *  Basilica  of  Quebec  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Market  Square,  and 
was  known  as  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  until  1874,  Avhen  it  wa.s 
elevated  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  to  the  rank  of  a  basilica.  It  was  founded  in 
1666  by  Bishop  Laval,  and  was  destroyed  by  tho  bombardment  from 
Wolfe's  batteries  in  1759.  The  present  building  dates  from  the  era  of  the 
Conquest,  ana  its  exterior  is  quaint,  irregular,  and  homely.  From  its 
towers  the  Angelus  bells  sound  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  6  in  the 
evening.  The  interior  is  heavy,  but  not  unpleasing,  and  accommodates 
4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well  adorned,  and  there  are  several 
chapels  in  the  aisles.  The  most  notable  pictures  in  the  Basilica  are,  **  the 
Crucifixion,  by  T'a»  Dyck  ("  the  Christ  of  the  Cathedral";  the  finest  paint- 
ing in  Canada),  on  the  first  pillar  1.  of  the  altar;  the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul, 
Carlo  Maratti ;  the  Annunciation,  Restout ;  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  Halle  ; 
the  Pentecost,  Vignon ;  Miracles  of  St.  Anne,  Plamondon ;  Angels  waiting 


2G2     Route  GS. 


QUEBEC. 


on  Christ,  RcsUmt  (in  tho  choir);  the  Nativity,  copy  from  A    dbah  Cn- 
rncci;  Holy  Family,  Blanchard. 

The  Basilica  oornplos  tlip  site  of  the  ancient  church  of  Notre  Dnmc  do  la  Rocou- 
Trance,  built  in  ItJJi'J  Ity  t'linnipliiin,  in  uieniory  of  the  recovery  of  Canada  by  France. 
Within  its  walls  are  buried  Bishops  Laviil  and  IMessis ;  Chaniplain,  tlie  lieroic  ex- 
plorer, founder  and  first  fiovernor  of  Quebec :  i»nd  the  Count  dc  Frontenac,  the 
fiery  and  chlvalric  Oovernor  of  Canada  from  1(5HS  to  1G98.  >ftcr  iiis  deatli  liis 
heart  was  enclosed  in  a  leaden  casket  and  sent  to  his  widow,  in  France,  but  the 
proud  countess  refused  to  receive  it,  saying  that  she  would  not  have  a  dead  heart, 
whieli,  while  iivinp,  had  not  beeu  hers.  Tiie  nol)lc  lady  ("  the  marrellously  beautiful 
Anne  do  la  Oniud-Trianon,  surnanied  The  Divine'")  was  tlie  friend  of  Madame 
de  ytWiRnc,  and  was  alienated  from  Frontenac  on  account  of  his  love-affair  witli 
the  brilliant  Versaillaise,  Madame  de  Montespan. 

Most  of  the  valuable  paintings  in  tho  Basilica,  and  elsewhere  in  Canada,  were 
bought  in  France  at  the  epoch  of  the  Revolution  of  1793,  when  the  churches  and 
convents  had  Iktu  pillaged  of  their  treasures  of  art.  Many  of  them  were  purchased 
from  tiieir  captors,  and  sent  to  tho  sec  '.e  shores  of  New  France. 

Back  of  the  Hasilica,  on  Tort  Dauphin  St.,  is  the  extensive  palace  of 
the  Archbishop,  surrounded  by  quiet  gardens.  To  the  E.  are  the  Parlia- 
ment Building  and  tiie  Grand  Battery. 

The  *  Seminary  of  Quebec  adjoins  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.,  and  covers 
several  acres  with  its  piles  of  quaint  and  rambling  buildings  and  quiet 
and  .sequestered  gardens.  It  is  divided  into  Le  Grand  Scminairc  and  Le 
Petit  Seminaire,  the  former  being  devoted  to  Roman-Catholic  theology  and 
the  education  of  priests.  The  Minor  Seminary  is  for  the  study  of  litera- 
ture and  science  (for  boys),  and  the  course  extends  over  nine  years. 
Boarders  pay  $  150  a  year,  exclusive  of  washing,  music,  and  draw- 
ing. The  students  may  be  recognized  in  the  streets  by  their  peculiar 
uniform.  The  quadrangle,  with  its  old  and  irregular  buildings;  the  spot- 
less neatness  of  the  grounds;  the  massive  walls  and  picturesquely  outlined 
groupings,  will  claim  the  interest  of  the  visitor. 

"  No  such  building  could  be  seen  anywhere  save  in  Quebec,  or  in  some  ancient 
provincial  town  in  Normnndy.  You  osk  for  one  of  the  gentlemen  (priests),  and  you 
are  introJuoed  to  liis  modest  apartment,  where  you  find  him  in  liis  soutane,  with  all 
the  polish,  learning,  and  bonhonunie  of  the  nineteenth  century."  Visitors  are  con- 
ducted over  the  building  in  a  courteous  manner. 

The  Sentiiiary  Cliapel  has  some  fine  paintings  (beginning  at  the  r.  of  the  en- 
trance): the  .Saviour  and  the  Samaritan  Woman,  Lm  Greme;  the  Virgin  attended 
by  Angels,  Dieu;  the  Crucifixion,  Monet;  the  Ilermits  of  the  Thebaid,  Quillot; 
the  Vision  of  St.  Jerome,  Z)'/fMWm ;  the  Ascension,  Philippe  de  Clinmpagne ;  the 
Burial  of  Christ,  Hutin;  (over  the  altar)  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  Vanlno;  above 
which  's  a  picture  of  Angels,  Lebrun;  the  Trance  of  St.  Anthony,  Parrocel 
cP Avignon ;  the  Day  of  Pentecost,  P.  de  Champagne ;  St.  Peter  freed  from  Prison,  De 
la  Fosae;  The  Baptism  of  Christ,  Halle;  St.  Jerome  Writing,  /.  B.  Champagne; 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Bonnieu.  *'The  Chapel  on  the  r.  of  the  chief  altar  con- 
tains the  relics  of  St.  Clement ;  that  on  the  1.  the  relics  of  St.  Modestus." 

Tho  Seminary  of  Quel)cc  was  founded  in  16G3  by  M  de  Laval,  who  endowed  it  with 
all  his  great  wealth.  The  first  buildings  were  erected  in  1666,  and  the  present  Semi- 
nary is  composed  of  edifices  constructed  at  different  dates  since  that  time.  In  1865 
a  large  part  of  the  quadrangle  was  burnt,  but  it  has  since  been  restored.  In  1704 
there  were  54  teachers  and  students  ;  in  1810  there  were  110  ;  and  there  are  now  over 
400  (exclusive  of  the  University  students).  "  When  we  awake  its  departed  shades, 
they  rise  upon  us  from  their  graves,  in  strange  romantic  guise.  Men  steeijed  in 
antique  learning,  pale  with  the  close  breath  of  the  cloister,  here  spent  the  noon  and 
evening  of  their  lives,  ruled  savage  hordes  with  a  mild  paternal  sway,  and  ttood 


m^ 


W^ 


\i 


QUEBEC. 


Jioute  GS.      263 


M^ 


*?» 


VJ 


Bcrcne  before  the  cHrest  shnpcs  of  death.  Men  if  courtly  natures,  heirs  to  the  polinh 
of  a  fiir-rvarhiiiK  imcustry,  hero  with  their  daaotlcss  hardihood  put  to  tihaiue  tho 
boldest  «on8  of  toil."' 

Tlio  *  Laval  University  is  between  the  Seminary  gardens  and  theram- 
part.s,  nn<l  may  be  readied  from  St.  Famillc  St.  The  main  building  is  280  ft. 
long  and  6  stories  high,  is  built  of  cut  stone,  and  cost  S  225,000.  The  roof  is  a 
flat  sanded  platform,  securely  cnrailed,  where  the  students  promenade  and 
enjoy  the  grand  *  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  Laurentian  Mts.  Vis- 
itors are  admitted  to  the  collections  of  the  University  on  application  to  the 
janitor.  The  reception-rooms  contain  the  great  picture  of  the  Madonna  of 
Quebec,  a  portrait  of  Pius  IX.,  by  Pasqualoni,  and  other  paintings.  The  large 
hall  of  convocation  has  seats  for  2,000,  with  galleries  for  ladies.  The  chem- 
ical laboratory  is  a  fire-proof  chamber,  modelled  after  that  of  King's  Col- 
lege, London;  and  the  dissecting-room  is  spacious  and  well  arranged.  The 
♦mineral  museum  was  prepared  by  the  late  Abb6  Haiiy,  an  eminent 
scientist,  and  contains  specimens  of  the  stones,  ores,  and  minerals  of 
Canada,  with  a  rare  and  valuable  collection  of  crystals.  It  fills  a  long 
series  of  apartments,  from  which  the  visitor  is  ushered  into  the  ethnologi- 
cal and  zoological  cabinets.  Hero  are  a  great  number  of  Indian  remains, 
implements,  and  weapons,  and  other  Huron  antiquities;  with  prepared 
specimens  of  Canadian  animals  and  fish.  The  Library  contains  70,000 
volumes  (about  half  of  which  are  French),  arranged  in  two  spacious  halls, 
from  whose  windows  delightful  views  are  obtained.  The  *  Picture-Gnl- 
lery  has  lately  been  opened  to  the  public,  and  is  the  richest  in  Canada. 
The  works  are  mostly  copies  from  the  old  masters,  though  there  are  sev- 
eral undoubted  originals.  It  is  bj'  far  the  finest  gallery  N.  of  New  York, 
and  should  be  carefully  studied.  The  visitor  should  also  see  the  brilliant 
collection  of  Canadian  birds;  and  the  costly  philosophical  and  medical 
apparatus,  imported  from  Paris.  The  extensive  dormitories  occupy  sub- 
stantial stone  buildings  near  the  University,  over  the  gardens. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663  by  Franrois  de  Montmorenci  Laval,  first  Bishop 
of  Quebec,  and  has  been  the  central  power  of  the  Catholic  Churcli  in  this  Province 
for  over  two  centuries.  The  Laval  University  was  founded  in  1852,  and  has  had  the 
privile;;es  of  a  Catholic  University  accorded  to  it  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  The  processes 
of  study  are  modelled  on  those  of  the  University  of  Louvain.  The  department  of 
arts  has  14  professors,  the  law  has  6,  divinity  has  5,  and  medicine  has  8.  There  are 
also  24  professors  iu  the  Minor  Seminary. 

The  Farliament  Building  is  on  the  site  of  Champlain's  fort  and  the  old 
Episcopal  Palace,  and  is  an  extensive  but  plain  building,  whose  glory  has 
departed  since  the  decapitalization  of  Quebec.  The  Legislative  Council 
of  the  Province  meets  in  a  pleasant  hall,  upholstered  and  carpeted  in  crim- 
son, with  a  very  large  throne,  over  which  is  a  canopy  surmounted  by  the 
arms  of  the  United  Kingdom.  There  are  spacious  galleries  for  visitors. 
The  hall  of  the  House  of  Assembly  is  on  the  front  of  the  building,  and  is 
upholstered  in  green.  Back  of  the  speaker's  chair  is  a  line  of  Corinthian 
pilasters  upholding  a  pediment  on  which  are  the  Royal  Arras.    The  *  Li- 


'  •  1 


I  ;i 


I  i . 


li 


264      Jloute  6S. 


QUEBEC. 


brary  occupies  a  Inrgc  nnd  quiet  npnrtment  on  the  first  floor,  nnd  is  rich  in 
French-Canadian  literature.  It  also  has  copies  of  the  costly  volumes  of 
Audubon's  "Birds  of  America,"  Dugdale's  ^''  ^f una  st  icon  Anr/Ucnnum," 
"The  Antiquities  of  Italy,"  and  the  "^cic  Sanctomm^^  (54  volumes,  in 
vellum). 

Mountain-TIill  St.  descends  by  the  place  of  the  Prcscott  Gate,  to  the 
Lower  Town,  winding  down  the  slope  of  the  clifl'.  On  the  r.,  about  J  of 
the  way  down,  arc  the  *  Champlain  Steps,  or  Cote  la  Montagne,  a  steep, 
crowded,  nnd  picturesque  stairway  leading  down  to  Notre  Dame  des 
Victoires  (sec  page  271).  Near  the  foot  of  the  steps  is  a  grating,  over  the 
place  where  the  remains  of  Champlain  were  recently  found,  in  the  vault 
of  an  ancient  chapel.  The  Cute  la  Montague  has  reminded  one  author 
of  Naples  and  Trieste,  another  of  Venice  and  Trieste,  and  another  of 
Malta. 

The  new  Fost-Offioe  is  a  handsome  stone  building  at  the  corner  of  Buade 
and  Du  Fort  Sts.  In  its  front  wall  is  a  figure  of  a  dog,  carved  in  the  stone 
and  gilded,  under  which  is  the  inscriptioii:  — 


"  Je  sills  un  chicn  qui  ronfrc  I'os  ; 
En  Ic  rongcnnt  je  prcml  inon  repos. 
Un  temps  viondrn  qui  n'cst  pas  vcnu 
Que  jc  inordrnis  qui  m'aura  inordu." 


("  I  nm  a  dof;  fmnwinar  <v  bone. 
Wliilo  I  giinw  I  talcc  my  rtposc. 
Tlic  linic  will  come,  thouRli  not  yet, 
When  I  will  bite  him  who  now  bites  me.' 


This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Bigot  by  M.  Philibert,  who  had 
suffered  wrong  from  him,  but  soon  after  the  carved  stone  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Philibert's  house,  that  gentleman  was  assassinated  by  an 
officer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  Ka?t  Indian 
army,  but  was  pursued  by  Philibert's  brother,  and  was  kllJod,  at  Poudi- 
cherry,  after  a  severe  confiict. 

The  Post-Offlce  occupies  the  nto.  of  the  Grand  Place  of  the  early  French  town,  on 
which  encamped  the  Huron  tribe,  sheltered  by  the  fort  from  the  attacks  of  the  piti- 
less Iroquois.  Here  afterwards  lived  the  beautiful  Miss  Prentice,  with  whom  Ni'lson 
fell  in  love,  so  that  he  had  to  be  forced  on  board  of  his  ship  to  g(!t  him  away.  "  How 
many  changes  would  have  ensued  on  the  map  of  Europe !  how  many  new  horizons  in 
history,  if  Nelson  had  deserted  the  naval  service  of  his  country  in  1782!  Without 
doubt,  Napoleon  would  have  given  law  to  the  entire  world.  His  supremacy  on  tlie 
sea  would  have  consolidated  liis  rule  over  the  European  continent :  and  that  because 
an  amorous  young  naval  officer  was  seized  by  a  passion  for  a  bewitching  Canadian 
girl  1  "  Near  this  place  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  then  a  subaltern  of  the  fleet,  but 
afterwards  King  William  IV.  of  England,  followed  a  young  lady  home  in  an  uu- 
Beemly  manner,  and  was  caught  by  her  father  and  very  soundly  horsewhipped. 

The  *TJrsuline  Convent  is  entered  from  Garden  St.,  and  is  a  spacious 
pile  of  buildings,  commenced  in  1686,  and  covering  7  acres  with  its  gardens 
and  offices.  There  are  40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and 
also  to  working  in  embroidery,  painting,  and  fancy  articles.  The  parlors 
and  chapel  may  be  visited  by  permission  of  the  chaplain  (whose  ofllice  is 
adjacent);  and  in  the  latter  are  some  valuable  paintings:  *  Christ  at  the 
Pharisee 's  House,  by  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  Saints  Nonus  and  Pelagius, 
Prudhomme ;  the  Saviour  Preaching,  P.  de  Champayne ;  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fish,  Le  Dieu  de  Joucenet ;   Captives  at  Algiers,  Restout ;  St. 


'J 


1&» 


J 


QUEBEC. 


IloiUc  CS.      L>G5 


is  rich  in 
lumes  of 

umes,  ill 

e,  to  the 
out  J  of 
a  steep, 
)ame  des 
over  the 
he  vault 
e  author 
lotlier  of 

ofBuade 
the  stoiJO 


yet, 
bitci  me.") 

who  hinl 
been  put 
ed  by  nil 
;t  Iiidi:m 
it  Poudi- 


town,  on 
f  the  |.iti- 
mj  Ni'l.«()ii 
ly.  "Unw 
orizons  in 

M'ithoiit 
cy  on  tlic 
it  beiniifi« 
Cnnndian 
fleet,  but 
n  an  uu- 
jped. 

spacious 
gardens 
iris,  and 
2  parlors 
otfico  is 
t  at  tlio 
'elagiu?, 
raculous 
Old;  St. 


l> 


^ 


I 


Peter,  Spanish  School;  and  Fovoral  other''.  In  the  shrine*  are  relics  of  St. 
Clonient  Martyr,  and  other  siiints  iVuni  the  lldman  catacdnil).*.  Within  i< 
grave  made  by  a  slii'll  whicii  burst  in  this  chapel  duriiif?  tlie  liomttarduient 
of  1759  is  buried  "the  Higli  and  Mighty  Lord,  Louis  .Joseph,  .Murquis  of 
Montcalm,"  and  over  his  remains  is  the  iuscri^ition,  "  Ilonneur  ii  Mont- 
''alm!  Le  dcstiu  en  lui  di^robant  de  h\  victoirc  i"a  rc'-cnmiicu'^e  |i;ir  uih* 
mort  giorieuse."  Montcalm's  skull  is  carefully  preserved  under  glass,  and 
is  shown  as  an  object  worthy  of  great  veneration. 

The  first  Suporlor  of  the  UrsuUne  Convent  was  Motlier  Mario  do  I'lnramr.tion, 
who  was  "  ri'veri-d  as  tlio  St.  Teresa  ol  lier  time."  She  n)ii.stere<l  tlie  Huron  ami 
AlRonijiiin  iai)Kua<;es,  and  her  letters  to  Franrc  Idrni  one  of  the  nio.st  v.jluahle  ree- 
ords  of  tlie  early  days  of  Canada.  Tiie  eonvent  was  foinidcd  in  Itjyi*,  when  the  first 
abhesH  i.oided  in  tjuehee  amid  the  salntes  of  the  eastl<-batteries  ;  and  the  »j)ceia'. 
work  of  the  nuns  was  that  of  cdneatinR  ti  >  Indi.m  ^'irls.  The  eonvent  wa.s  burnt 
down  in  ir)')0, and  atjain  in  I'iSO,  wiien  tlie  l'rsnline.<<  were  slieitered  by  tlie  Itnpital- 
it*res.  The  Archbishop  has  recently  ordered  that  the  term  of  profesAiou  shall  be  for 
ecven  years,  instead  of  for  life. 

Morrin  College  occupies  a  massive  stone  building  at  the  corner  of 
St.  Anne  and  Stanislas  Sts.,  and  is  the  only  non-Kpiscopal  Protestant  col- 
lege in  the  Province.  It  was  founded  by  Dr.  Morrin,  and  has  6  professors, 
but  has  had  but  little  success  as  an  cilucationnl  institution.  The  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  Government  in  1810,  for  a  prison;  and  occupied 
the  site  of  an  ancient  fort  of  Champlain's  era.  It  was  used  as  a  prison 
until  the  new  Penitentiary  was  built,  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  in 
the  N.  wing  are  tlio  "  sombre  corridors  that  not  long  ago  resounded  with 
the  steps  of  the  jailers,  and  the  narrow  cells  that  are  never  enlivened  by 
a  ray  of  light." 

The  *  Library  of  the  Quebec  Literary  and  Historical  Society  is  in  the 
N.  wing  of  Alorrin  College,  and  contains  a  rare  collection  of  books  re- 
lating to  Canadian  history  and  science,  in  the  French  and  English  lan- 
guages. This  society  Is  renowned  for  its  valuable  researches  in  the  annals 
of  the  old  St.  Lawrence  Provinces,  and  has  published  numerous  volumes 
of  records.  It  includes  in  its  membership  the  leading  literati  of  Eastern 
Canada.  There  is  a  small  but  interesting  museum  connected  with  the 
library-hall. 

St.  Andrew^s  Church,  with  its  school  and  manse,  occupy  the  triangle  at 
the  intersection  of  St.  Anne  and  Stanislas  Sts.  It  is  a  low,  quaint  buihl- 
ing,  erected  in  1809  on  ground  granted  by  Sir  James  Craig.  Previously, 
from  the  time  of  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the  Scottish  Presbyterians  had 
worshipped  in  the  .Jesuits'  College.  The  Wedeyan  Church  is  a  comforta- 
ble modern  building,  just  below  Morrin  College;  beyond  which,  on 
Dauphin  St.,  is  the  chapel  of  the  Congregational ists  (Roman  Catholic). 
At  the  corner  of  St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (second  story)  is  a  statue  of 
Wolfe,  whicli  is  nearly  a  century  old,  and  bears  such  a  relation  to  Quebec 
as  does  the  Mannikin  to  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  at  night  by  some 
12 


i 


i 


i 
)   » 


i 

k 


II 


III 


]  I''' 


■1  . 


2GG      A'oM^c  68. 


QUEBEC. 


royptpring  naval  omccrs,  and  carried  olT  to  Rarbadocs,  whence  it  was  rc- 
turnctl  many  months  after,  enclosed  in  a  coflin. 

Tlio  *  HOtel-Diou  Convent  and  Hospital  i.s  tho  most  cxt^nsivo  pile  of 
bnildings  in  Quebec,  and  is  situated  on  Talaco  St.  (r.  side)  and  the  Ram- 
part. K.  of  tltc  lt)ng  ranf;es  of  buildings  (in  which  650  sicii  persons  can  be 
nccomino(hit('il)  arc  pleasant  and  retired  gardens.  Tiic  convent-churcii  i.s 
entered  from  Ciiarlevoix  St.,  and  contains  valuable  pictures:  the  Nativity, 
by  Sttlla;  the  Virgin  and  Cliild,  Coypd;  tlio  Vision  of  St.  Teresa,  Afenv- 
geot;  St.  IJruno  in  Meditation,  Le  Sueur  (called  "  the  Raphael  of  Franco"); 
the  *  Praying  Monk,  by  Zurbaran  (undoubted);  and  fine  copies  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles,  ijy  Raphael,  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  hy  Rubens 
(over  the  high  altar). 

The  Hotel  Dion  was  founded  by  the  Duchessc  d'Agnillon  (nicco  of  Cardinal  Illche- 
lleu)  in  1039.  In  1064  one  of  the  jtrescut  buildingH  was  crrctcd,  and  niofit  of  it  was 
built  during;  the  17tli  century,  while  Talon,  liaron  des  I.>ilet.'<,  completed  it  In  17<J2. 
There  are  tJl)-40  eloi,><tered  nuns  of  the  order  of  the  Iloiiitalit  res,  and  the  ho.spital 
i.s  oj)en  freely  to  the  sick  and  infirm  poor  of  whatever  sect,  with  attendance  by  the 
be.>it  doctors  of  the  city.  The  singing  of  the  nuns  during  the  Sunday  services  will 
Interest  the  visitor. 

The  most  precious  relic  in  the  IIotel-Dieu  is  a  silTcr  bust  (in  life  size)  of  Bri'beuf, 
in  who.se  base  is  preserved  the  skull  of  that  heroic  martyr.  Jean  de  Bri'beuf,  aNor- 
nian  .lesuit  of  noble  blood,  arrived  at  Quebec  with  Oham plain  in  1633,  and  went  to 
the  Huron  country  the  next  year.  Here  he  had  frequent  celestial  visions,  and 
labored  successfully  in  the  work  of  converting  the  nation,  lie  often  said:  "  Scntio 
me  vehf77ienter  imprlli  ad  morifiulum  proChristo  "  ;  and  his  wish  was  gratified  when 
his  mission-town  of  St.  Ignace  was  stormed  by  the  Iroquois  (in  1G49).  He  was  bound 
to  a  stake  and  scorched  from  head  to  foot ;  the  savages  cut  away  his  lower  lip,  and 
thrust  a  red-hot  iron  down  his  throat ;  hung  around  his  neck  a  necklace  of  red-hot 
collars  (•'  but  the  indomitable  .iriest  stood  'ike  a  rock") ;  poured  boiling  water  over 
liis  head  and  face,  in  demoniac  mockery  of  baptism ;  cut  strips  of  llesli  from  his 
limbs,  and  ate  them  before  his  eyes  ;  scalped  him  ;  cut  open  his  breast,  and  drank 
his  living  blood  ;  filled  his  eyes  with  live  coals  ;  and  after  four  hours  of  torture,  a 
chief  tore  out  his  heart  and  devoured  it.  "  Thus  died  Jean  de  Br^beuf,  the  founder 
of  the  Huron  mission,  its  truest  hero,  and  its  greatest  martyr.  lie  came  of  a  noble 
race,  —  the  same,  it  is  said,  from  which  sprang  the  English  Earls  of  Arundel ;  but 
never  had  the  mailed  barons  of  his  line  confronted  a  fate  so  appalling  with  so  pro- 
digious a  constfincy.  To  the  last  he  refused  to  flinch,  and  '  his  death  was  the  aston- 
ishment of  his  murderers.'  "  The  delicate  and  slender  Lalemant,  Br(?beuf  "s  eol- 
Icflgiie  on  the  mission,  was  tortured  for  seventeen  hours,  with  the  most  refined  and 
exquisite  varieties  of  torment.  "  It  was  said  that,  at  times,  he  seemed  befide  him- 
self: then,  rall;>ing,  with  hands  uplifted,  he  oflcred  his  sufTerings  to  Heaven  aa  a 
sacrifice."    The  bones  of  Lalemant  are  preserved  at  the  Hotel  Dieu. 

Around  the  Ramparts. 

*  The  Citadel  is  an  immense  and  powerful  fortification,  covering  40 
acres  of  ground,  and  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  (so  called 
from  the  glittering  crystals  found  in  the  vicinity),  which  is  said  to  be  "  the 
coldest  place  in  the  British  Empire."  Since  the  evacuation  of  Canada  by 
the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  has  been  garrisoned  by  Provincial  volun- 
teers, and  visitors  are  usually  permitted  to  pass  around  the  walls  under 
the  escort  of  a  soldier.  The  **view  from  the  most  northerly  bastion 
(which  contains  an  immense  Armstrong  gun)  surpasses  that  from  the 
Durham  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world.    The 


I 


tr 


l?» 


QUEBEr. 


Route  GS.      207 


(St.  Clmrlca  is  seen  windiiip;  through  a  hcnntiful  undiihxtinj*  ;>]aiii,  nnd  tho 
ppii-os  of  r.enuport,  Chivrlosbourj?,  and  Loiotto,  with  tlio  white  cottapcs 
I  around  them,  form  plcasiujr  features  in  the  hindscapc.     On  the  S.  of  tho 

parade  are  tlio  officers'  quarters  and  the  bomb-proof  hospital,  while  bar- 
racks and  magazines  arc  seen  in  advance.    The  armory  contains  a  great 
numl)er  of  military  curiosities,  but  is  not  always  accessible  to  visitors. 
'  The  Citadel  is  separated  from  tho  town  by  a  broad  glacis,  which  is  broken 

■I  by  three  ravelins;  and  tho  wall  on  that  side  contains  a  lino  of  casemated 

,  Ijarrucks.  The  entrance  to  the  Citadel  is  by  way  of  a  winding  road  which 
leads  in  from  St.  Louis  St.  through  tho  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  enters  first 
tin-  outer  ditch  of  the  ravelin,  beyond  tho  strong  Chain  Gate.  Thence  it 
passes,  always  under  the  mouths  of  cannon,  into  the  main  ditch,  which  is 
faced  with  masonry,  and  at  this  point  opens  into  a  narrow  parade,  over- 
looked by  tho  retiring  angles  of  tho  basdon.  The  curious  iron-work  of  tho 
Chain  Gate  being  passed,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  an  open  triangular 
parade,  under  the  loopholes  of  tho  Dalhousio  Bastion. 

"  Such  structures  carry  us  back  to  the  Middle  Ages,  the  siege  of  Jerusalem,  and 
St.  Jean  d'Acre,  and  tlic  days  of  the  Buccanicrs.  In  the  armory  of  tho  Citadel  tlioy 
showed  mo  a  clumsy  implement,  lon,j  since  useless,  which  they  called  a  Lombard 
gun.    I  thought  that  their  whole  Citadel  was  such  a  Lombard  gun,  fit  object  for  tho 

Dvuseums  of  the  curious Silliman  states  that  *  the  cold  is  so  intense  in  tlio 

winter  nights,  particularly  on  Capo  Diamond,  that  tlie  sentinels  cannot  stand  it 
^^  more  than  one  hour,  and  are  relieved  at  the  expiration  of  that  time ;  and  even, 

as  it  is  said,  at  much  shorter  intervals,  in  case  of  the  most  extreme  cold.'  I  shall 
never  again  wake  up  in  a  colder  night  tlian  usual,  but  I  shall  think  liow  rapidly  tho 
sentinels  arc  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Quebec,  their  quicksilver  being 
all  frozen,  as  if  apprehensive  that  some  hostile  Wolfe  may  even  then  be  scaling  tlio 
Heights  of  Abraham,  or  some  persevering  .\rnold  about  to  issue  from  the  wildernesx  ; 
some  Malay  or  Japanese,  perchance,  coming  round  by  the  N.  W.  coast,  have  chosen 
that  moment  to  assault  the  Citadel.  Why  I  should  as  soon  expect  to  see  the  senti- 
nels still  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Nineveh,  which  have  so  long  been 
buried  to  the  world.  What  a  troublesome  thing  a  wall  is  I  I  thought  it  was  to  de- 
fend me,  and  not  I  it.  Of  course,  if  they  had  no  walls  they  would  not  need  to  have 
any  sentinels."    (Tuoreau.) 

The  Citadel  was  formerly  connected  with  the  Artillery  Borracks,  at  the  farther 
end  of  the  city,  by  a  bomb-proof  covered  way  1,837  yards  long.  These  fortifications 
are  345  feet  above  the  river,  and  considenibly  higher  tlian  the  Upper  Town.  The 
rock  on  which  they  arc  founded  is  of  dark  slate,  in  which  are  limpid  quartz-crystals. 

The  picturesque  walls  of  Quebec  arc  of  no  defensive  value  since  tlie  modern  im- 
provements in  gunnery ;  and  even  the  Citadel  could  not  prevent  dangerous  ap- 
proachcs  or  a  bombardment  of  the  city.  Skilful  military  engineers  have  therefore 
|t^  laid  out  a  more  extensive  system  of  modem  fortifications,  including  lines  of  powerful 

detached  forts  on  the  heights  of  Point  Levi,  and  at  Sillery.  The  former  were  begun 
in  1867,  and  are  nearly  completed  ;  but  the  Sillery  forts  arc  not  yet  commenced. 

The  spirit  of  utilitarianism,  which  has  levelled  the  walhs  of  Frankfort  and  Vienna 
and  is  menacing  Boston  Common,  has  been  attacking  the  nimparts  of  Quebec  f  t 
many  years.  The  people  of  the  Upper  Town  and  the  extra-muml  wards  arc  doubt- 
less much  incommoded  by  this  broad  wall  of  separ-ation, which  i'os  also  become  use- 
less in  a  military  point  of  view.  However  mucli  it  may  be  deplored  by  antiquarians 
and  men  of  culture,  the  day  is  at  hand  when  the  mediaeval  fortifications  of  Quebec 
will  be  sacrificed  to  the  spirit  of  the  times.  There  are  not  wanting  reverent  Ameri- 
can Ru.skins  to  cry  out  against  such  demolition,  but  the  wishes  of  the  indigenous 
population  will  probably  prevail  against  these  ideas.  Alresuly  the  picturesque  old 
1  gates  a'-e  gone.    The  St.  Louis  and  Prescott  Qates  were  taken  down  in  1871,  and  tho 

(  Palace  and  Hope  Gates  were  removed  in  1873. 


I 


:a 


f 


! 

V, 

r* 
1$ 


m 


•  I 


]' 


1 


m 


MJ  1    i-  s 


Pi 


268      iZottfe  6S. 


QUEBEC 


The  Esplanade  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  Louis  Gate  (within),  and 
the  tourist  is  recommended  to  walk  along  the  ramparts  to  St.  John's  Gate, 
viewing  the  deep  fosse,  the  massive  outworks,  and  the  antiquated  ord- 
nance at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  the  Stadacona  Club,  the  Congre- 
gational (Catholic)  Church,  and  the  National  School;  and  Montcalm's 
"Ward  is  on  the  1.  *  St.  John's  Gate  is  the  only  remaining  gate  of  the 
city,  and  is  a  strong  and  graceful  structure  which  was  erected  in  1869. 
While  rallying  his  soldiers  outside  of  this  gate,  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm 
was  mortally  wounded;  and  Col.  Brown  (of  Massachusetts)  attacked  this 
point  while  Arnold  and  Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  To 
the  1.  is  St.  John's  Ward  (see  page  260);  and  the  road  to  St.  Foy  passes 
below.  The  ramparts  must  be  left  at  this  point,  and  D'Auteuil  and  St. 
Helene  Sts.  follow  their  course  by  the  Artillery  Barracks,  amid  fine 
grounds  at  the  S.  W.  angle  of  the  fortifications.  The  French  garrison 
erected  the  most  important  of  these  buildings  (600  ft.  long)  in  1750,  and  the 
British  Government  has  since  made  large  additions;  but  the  barracks  are 
now  imoccupied  and  are  closed  up.  On  and  near  St.  Helene  St.  are  sev- 
eral churches,  —  St.  Patrick's  (Irish  Catholic),  Trinity  (Anglican),  the 
Baptist,  and  the  Congregational. 

After  crossing  the  wide  and  unsightly  gap  made  by  the  removal  of  the 
Palace  Gate,  the  rambler  may  follow  the  course  of  the  walls  from  the 
Hotel  Dieu  (see  page  266)  to  the  Parliament  Building.  They  occupy  the 
crest  of  the  cliff",  and  command  fine  vicAvs  over  the  two  rivers  and  the  Isle 
of  Orleans  and  Laurentian  Mts.  The  walls  are  thin  and  low,  but  are  fur- 
nished with  lines  of  loopholes  and  with  bastions  for  artillery.  The  walk 
takes  an  easterly  course  beyond  the  angle  of  the  convent-buildings,  and 
passes  between  the  battlements  and  the  high  walls  of  the  Hotel-Dieu  gar- 
dene-  for  nearly  500  ft. 

The  streets  which  intersect  the  Rampart  beyond  this  point  arc  of  a  quaint  and 
pleasing  character.  One  of  them  is  thus  described  by  Ilowells :  "  The  thresholds 
and  doorsteps  were  covered  with  the  neatest  and  brightest  oilcloth  ;  the  wooden 
sidewalk  was  t  y  clean,  like  the  steep,  roughly  paved  street  itself;  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill  down  which  it  sloped  was  a  breadth  of  the  city  wall,  pierced  for  musketry, 
and,  past  the  corner  of  one  of  the  houses,  the  half-length  of  cannon  showing.  It 
hiixl  all  the  charm  of  those  ancient  streets,  dear  to  Old- World  travel,  in  which  the 
pa.st  and  present,  decay  and  repair,  peace  and  war,  liavc  made  friends  in  an  eflcct 
that  not  only  wins  the  eye,  but,  however  illogicaliy,  touches  the  heart ;  and  over 
the  top  of  the  wall  it  had  a  stretch  of  landscape  as  I  know  not  what  European 
street  can  command  :  the  St.  Lawrence,  blue  and  wide  ;  a  bit  of  the  white  village  of 
Beauport  on  its  bank  ;  then  a  vast  breadth  of  pale  green ,  upward-sloping  meadows  ; 
then  the  purple  heights;  and  the  hazy  heaven  above  them." 

Since  Pre-^cott  Gate  fell,  there  was  "  nothing  left  so  picturesque  and  characteristic 
as  Hope  Gate,  and  I  doubt  if  anywhere  in  Europe'there  is  a  more  mediasval-looking 
bit  of  military  architecture.  The  heavy  stone  gateway  is  black  with  age,  and  the 
gate,  which  has  probably  never  been  closed  in  our  century,  is  of  massive  frame,  set 
thick  with  mighty  bolts  and  spikes.  Tiie  wall  here  sweeps  along  the  brow  of  the 
crag  on  which  the  city  is  built,  and  a  steep  street  drops  down,  by  stone-parapeted 
curves  and  angles  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town,  where,  in  1775,  nothing  but 
a  narrow  lane  bordered  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  considerable  breadth  of  land  has  giiico 
been  won  from  the  river,  and  severnl  streets  and  many  piers  now  stretch  between 
this;iUey  and  the  water;  but  the  old  Sault  au  Matelot  still  crouches  and  creeps 


n4h 


%:* 


O 


(> 


QUEBEC. 


Jloute  GS.       2G9 


%H 


t* 


(> 


alonjr  nnder  the  shelter  of  the  city  wall  and  the  overlianging  rock,  which  is  thickly 
bearded  with  weeds  and  grass,  and  trickles  with  abundant  moisture.  It  must  bo 
an  ice-pit  in  winter,  and  I  sliould  think  it  the  last  spot  on  the  continent  for  the 
summer  to  find ;  but  when  the  summer  has  at  list  found  it,  the  old  Sault  au 
Matelot  puts  on  a  vagabond  air  of  Southern  leisure  and  abandon,  not  to  bo  matched 
anywhere  out  of  Italy.  Looking  from  that  jutting  rock  near  Hope  Gate,  behind 
which  the  defeated  Americans  took  refuge  from  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  tiie  vista 
is  almost  unique  for  a  certain  scenic  squalor  and  gypsy  luxury  of  color :  sag-roofed 
barns  and  stables,  weak-backed  and  sunken-chested  workshops  of  every  sort  loungo 
along  in  tumble-down  succession,  and  lean  up  against  the  cliff  in  every  imaginable 
posture  of  worthlessness  and  decrepitude ;  light  wootlen  galleries  cross  to  them  from 
the  second  stories  of  the  houses  which  look  back  on  the  alley ;  and  over  these  galleries 
flutters,  from  a  labyrinth  of  clothes-lines,  a  variety  of  bright-coloretl  garments  of 
all  ages,  sexes,  and  conditions  ;  while  the  footway  underneath  abounds  in  gossiping 
women,  smoking  men,  idle  poultry,  cats,  children,  and  large  indolent  Newfoundland 
dogs."    (HoWELLs's  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

Passing  the  ends  of  these  quiet  streets,  and  crossing  the  gap  caused  by 
the  removal  of  Hope  Gate,  the  Rampart  promenade  turns  to  the  S.,  by  tlie 
immense  block  of  the  Laval  University  (see  page  263)  and  its  concealed 
gardens.  The  course  is  now  to  the  S.,  and  soon  reaches  tlie  *  Grand  Bat- 
tery, where  22  32-pounders  command  the  river,  and  from  whose  terrace  a 
pleasing  view  may  be  obtained.  The  visitor  is  then  obliged  to  leave  the 
walls  near  the  Parliament  Building  (see  page  263)  and  the  site  of  the  Pres- 
cott  Gate.  A  short  ddtour  leads  out  again  to  the  Durham  Terrace  (see 
page  259).  Des  Carri6res  St.  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d'Armes  to  the  Gov- 
ernor''s  Garden,  a  pleasant  summer-evening  resort,  with  a  monument  65  ft. 
high,  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  bear- 
ing the  elegant  aud  classic  inscription: 

Mortem.    Virtus.    Communem. 

Famam.    Historia. 

monumentum.    posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a  battery  which  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carrieres  St.  leads  to  the  inner  glacis  of  the  Citadel,  and  by  turning  to  the 
r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be  seen. 
Passing  a  cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r.,  the  Chalmers  Church  is  reached. 
This  is  a  symmetrical  Gothic  building  occupied  by  the  Presbyterians,  and 
its  services  have  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  old  Scottish  church.  Beyond 
this  point  is  St.  Louis  St.,  whence  the  circuit  of  the  walls  was  begun. 


i 
4» 


The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  W.  on  the  plateau,  from  the 
city-walls  to  the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  The  population  is  mostly 
French,  and  the  quarter  is  entered  by  passing  down  St.  John  St.  and 
through  St.  John's  Gate.  Glacis  St.  leads  to  the  r.,  just  beyond  the  walls, 
to  the  Convent  of  the  Gray  Sisters,  which  has  a  lofty  and  elegant  chapel. 
There  are  about  70  nuns,  whose  lives  are  devoted  to  teaching  and  to 
visiting  the  sick.    This  building  sheltei's  136  orphans  and  infirm  persons, 


T 


270      Route  OS. 


QUEBEC. 


{.   ! 


nnd  the  sisters  teach  700  female  children.  It  overlooks  the  St.  Charles 
valley,  commanding  fine  views.  Just  above  the  nunnery  is  the  Convent 
of  the  Christian  Brothers,  facing  on  the  glacis  of  the  rampart.  A  short 
distance  out  St.  .lohn  St.  is  St.  Matthew's  Church  (Episcopal);  beyond 
which  is  the  stately  Church  of  St.  John  (Catholic),  whose  twin  spires  are 
seen  for  many  leagues  to  the  N.  and  W.  The  interior  is  lofty  and  light, 
and  contains  12  copies  from  famous  European  paintings,  executed  by 
Plamondon,  a  meritorious  Canadian  artist.  Claire-Fontaine  St.  leads  S. 
from  this  church  to  the  Grande  Alice,  passing  just  inside  the  hnc  of  the 
Martello  Towers;  and  Sutherland  St.,  leading  into  the  Lower  Town,  is  a 
little  way  beyond.  The  St.  Foy  toll-gate  is  about  i  M.  froni  St.  John's 
Church. 

"  Above  St.  John's  Gate,  at  the  end  of  the  street  of  that  name,  devoted  entirely  to 
business,  there  is  at  sunset  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  iniaKiuable.  The  river 
St.  Charles,  gambolling,  as  it  were,  in  the  rays  of  the  departing  liniiinary,  the  light 
still  lingering  ou  the  spires  of  Lorette  and  (  harlesbourg,  until  it  fades  away  beyond 
the  lofty  mountains  of  Bonhommc  and  Tonnonthuan,  presents  an  evening  scene  of 
gorgeous  and  surpassing  splendor."     (II.\wkins.) 

"  A  sunset  seen  from  the  heights  above  the  wide  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  bathing 
in  tender  light  the  long  undulating  lines  of  remote  hills,  and  transfiguring  with  glory 
the  great  chain  of  the  Laurentides,  is  a  sight  of  beauty  to  remain  in  the  mind  for- 
ever."   (Marshall.) 

The  Montcalm  Ward  may  also  be  reached  by  passing  out  St.  Louis  St., 
through  the  inti'icate  and  formidable  linos  of  ravelins  and  redoubts  near 
the  site  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate.  On  the  r.  is  the  skating-rink,  beyond  wliich 
are  the  pleasant  borders  of  the  Grand  AU^e.  The  Convent  of  the  Good 
Shepherd  is  in  this  ward,  and  has,  in  its  church,  a  fine  copy  of  Murillo's 
"  Conception,"  by  Plamondon.  There  are  74  nuns  here,  90  penitents,  and 
600  girl-students.  The  dark  and  heavy  mediaeval  structure  on  the  Grand 
Alice  was  built  for  the  Canada  Military  Asylum,  to  take  care  of  the  widows 
and  orphans  of  British  soldiers  who  died  on  the  Canadian  stations.  Near 
the  corner  of  De  Salaberry  St.  is  St.  Bridget's  Asylum,  connected  with  St. 
Patrick's  Church.  The  Ladies'  Protestant  Home  is  nearlj'  opposite,  and 
is  a  handsome  building  of  white  brick,  where  70  old  men  and  young  girls 
are  kept  from  want  by  the  bounty  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec. 

The  Martello  Towers  are  four  in  number,  and  were  built  outside  the 
extra-mural  wards  in  order  to  protect  them  and  to  occupy  the  line  of 
heights.  They  were  erected  in  1807  - 12,  at  an  expense  of  $  60,000,  and 
are  arranged  for  the  reception  of  7  guns  each.  They  are  circular  in  form, 
and  have  walls  13  ft.  thick  toward  the  country,  while  on  the  other  side  they 
are  7  ft.  thick.  The  new  Jail  is  about  J  M.  in  advance  of  the  towers,  and 
is  a  massive  stone  building,  with  walls  pierced  for  musketry.  Near  this 
point  (turning  to  the  1.  from  the  Grand  All(5e  beyond  tlie  toll-gate),  and  on 
the  edge  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham  (extending  to  the  S.),  is  a  monument 
consisting  of  a  tall  column,  decked  with  trophies,  and  rising  from  a  square 
base,  on  which  is  the  inscription : 


•-I 


1} 


VF% 


m 


\ 


QUEBEC. 


JlotitcGS.      271 


t.  Charles 
B  Convent 
A  short 
);  beyond 
spires  are 
and  light, 
ccuted  by 
:.  leads  S. 
inc  of  the 
['own,  is  a 
St.  John's 


i  entirely  to 
The  river 
•y,  the  light 
way  beyoud 
Qg  scene  of 

■lcs,bn  thing 
g  with  glory 
le  mind  for- 


Louis  St., 
jubts  near 
ond  -vvliich 
the  Good 
r  Murillo's 
itcnts,  and 
the  Grand 
he  widoAvs 
)ns.  Near 
id  with  St. 
)osite,  and 
oung  girls 

i;tside  the 
he  line  of 
0,000,  and 
ir  in  form, 
ir  side  they 
)\ver9,  and 
Near  this 
■c),  and  on 
monnment 
n  a  square 


*p3 


m 


-m 


HERE  DIED 

WOLFE 

victokious. 

Sept.  13. 

1759. 

"The  horror  of  the  night,  the  precipice  scaled  by  Wolfe,  the  empire  he  \rith  a 
handful  of  men  added  to  England,  and  the  glorious  catastrophe  of  contentedly  ter- 
minating life  where  his  fame  began Ancient  story  may  be  ransacked,  and 

ostentatious  philosophy  thrown  into  tlie  account,  before  an  episode  can  be  found  to 
rank  with  Wolfe's."    (Willum  Pitt.) 

The  Lower  Toum. 

The  most  picturesque  approach  frc-a  ihe  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town  is 
by  the  Champlain  Stejn  (see  page  264).  This  route  leads  to  the  busiest 
and  most  crowded  part  of  the  old  river  wards,  and  to  the  long  lines  of  steam- 
boat wliarves.  Notre  Dame  des  Victoires  is  in  the  market  square  in  the 
Lower  Town,  and  is  a  plain  old  structure  of  stone,  built  on  the  site  of 
Cliamplain's  residence.  It  was  erected  in  1690,  and  Avas  called  Notre  Dame 
des  Victoires  to  commemorate  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  the  English 
attacks  of  1690  and  1711,  in  honor  of  which  an  annual  religious  feast  was 
instituted.  A  prophecy  was  made  by  a  nun  that  the  church  would  be  de- 
stroyed by  the  conquering  British ;  and  in  1759  it  was  burned  during  the 
bombardment  from  Wolfe's  batteries.  S.  of  Notre  Dame  is  the  spacious 
Champlain  Market,  near  an  open  square  on  whose  water-front  the  river- 
steamers  land.  The  narrow  Champlain  St.  may  be  followed  to  the  S., 
under  Cape  Diamond  and  by  the  point  where  Montgomery  fell,  to  the  great 
timber-coves  above. 

St.  Peter  St.  runs  N.  between  the  cliffs  and  the  river,  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  chief  trade  of  the  city,  containing  numerous  banks,  public  offices,  and 
wholesale  houses.  The  buildings  are  of  the  prevalent  gray  stone,  and  are 
massive  and  generally  plain.  The  parallel  lane  at  the  foot  of  tlie  cliff  is 
the  scene  of  the  final  discomfiture  of  the  American  assault  in  1775.  It  is 
named  Sault  au  Matelot,  to  commemorate  the  leap  of  a  dog  from  the  cliff 
above,  near  the  Grand  Battery.  Leadenhall  St.  leads  off  on  the  r.  to  the 
great  piers  of  Pointe  a  Garcy  and  to  the  imposing  classic  building  of  the 
*  Custom-House,  which  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St, 
Charles  Rivers.  St.  Paul  St.  runs  W.  from  near  the  end  of  St.  Peter  St., 
along  the  narrow  strip  between  the  St.  Charles  and  the  northern  cliffs,  and 
passes  the  roads  ascending  to  the  Hope  and  Palace  Gates. 

The  QueeiCs  Fuel-Yard  {\.  side)  is  beyond  the  Palace  Market,  and  occupies  the  site 
of  an  immense  range  of  buildings  erected  by  M.  Begon,  one  of  the  later  Royal  In- 
tendants  of  New  France.  Here  also  lived  Bigot  in  all  the  feudal  splendor  of  the  old 
French  noblesse,  on  the  revenues  which  ho  extorted  from  the  oppressed  Province. 
In  1775  the  palace  was  captured  by  Arnold's  Virginia  riHemen,  wlio  so  greatly  an- 
noyed the  garri.son  that  the  buildings  were  set  uu  lire  and  consumed  by  shells  from 
the  batteries  of  the  Upper  Towu. 


? 


272      Route  GS. 


QUEBEC. 


I   ' 


:Hf 


.  i 


St.  Poal  St.  is  prolonged  by  Bt.  Joseph  St.,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  this 
quarter,  and  the  boundary  between  the  Jaques  Cartier  and  St.  Koch  Wards. 
The  hitter  is  occupied  chiefly  by  manufactories  and  shipyards  (on  the 
ehorcs  of  the  St.  Charles):  and  the  narrow  and  plank-paved  streets  of 
Jaques  Cartier,  toward  the  northern  -walls,  are  filled  with  quaint  littlo 
houses  and  interesting  genre  views  about  the  homes  of  the  French-Canadian 
artisans.  St.  Eoch's  Church  is  a  ver}'  spacious  building,  with  broad  in- 
terior galleries,  and  contains  several  religious  paintings.  The  Convent  of 
Notre  Dame  is  opposite  St.  Eoch's,  and  has  70  nuns  (black  costume),  who 
teach  725  children. 

The  *  Marine  HosT>ital  is  a  large  and  imposing  modern  building,  in 
Ionic  architecture,  situated  in  a  park  of  six  acres  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Charles  River.  The  General  Hospital  and  the  monastery  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Anges  form  an  extensive  pile  of  buildings,  on  St.  Ours  St.,  near  the 
St.  Charles.  They  were  founded  by  De  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  Quebec 
(in  1G93),  for  invalids  and  incurables.  He  spent  100,000  crowns  in  this 
■work,  erecting  the  finest  building  in  Canada  (at  that  time).  It  is  now 
conducted  by  a  superior  and  45  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  The  convent- 
church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Anges  has  14  paintings  by  Legare,  with  an 
Assumption  (over  the  high  altar)  dating  from  1671. 

Pointe  aux  Lievres,  or  Hare  Point,  is  beyond  the  General  Hospital,  on  the  mead- 
ows of  the  St.  Charles.  It  is  supposed  to  be  the  place  where  the  pious  Franciscan 
monks  founded  the  first  mission  in  Canada.  Jaques  Cartier's  winter-quarters  ia 
1536  were  here,  and  on  leaving  tills  point  he  carried  off  the  Indian  king,  Donnacona, 
■who  was  afterwards  baptized  with  great  pomp  in  the  magnificent  cathedral  of 
Rouen.  On  this  ground,  also,  the  army  of  Montcalm  tried  to  rally  after  the  disas- 
trous battle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham. 

The  suburb  of  the  Banlieue  lies  beyond  St.  Ours  St.,  and  is  occupied  by 
the  homes  of  the  lower  classes,  with  the  heights  toward  St.  Foy  rising  on 
the  S.     St.  Sauveur^s  Church  is  the  only  fine  building  in  this  quarter. 

In  May,  1535,  Jaques  Cartier  witli  his  patrician  officers  and  hardy  sailors  attended 
high  mass  and  received  tlic  bishop's  blessing  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Malo,  and  then 
departed  across  the  unknown  western  seas.  The  largest  of  his  vessels  was  of  only  120 
tons'  burden,  yet  the  fleet  crossed  the  ocean  safely,  and  ascended  the  broad  St.  Law- 
rence. Having  passed  the  dark  Hagucna;  lilfs  and  the  vine-laden  shores  of  the  Islo 
of  Orleans,  he  entered  a  broad  basin  w..ere  "  a  mighty  promontory,  rugged  and 
bare,  thrust  its  scarped  front  into  the  raging  current.  Here,  clothed  in  the  majesty 
of  solitude,  breathing  the  stern  poetry  of  the  wilderness,  rose  the  cliffs  now  rich 
with  heroic  memories,  where  the  fiery  Count  Frontenac  cast  defiance  at  his  foes, 
where  Wolfe,  Montcalm,  and  Montgomery  fell.  As  yet  all  was  a  nameless  barbar- 
ism, and  a  cluster  of  wigwams  lield  the  site  of  the  rock-built  city  of  Quebec.  Its 
name  was  Stadaconi-,  and  it  owned  the  sway  of  the  royal  Donnacona." 

It  is  held  as  an  old  tradition  that  when  Cariier's  Norman  sailors  first  saw  tho 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  they  shouted  "  Quelhec .'  "  ("  What  a  beak  !  ")  which 
by  a  natural  elision  has  been  changed  to  Quebec.  Others  claim  that  they  named  the 
place  in  lovingmemory  of  Caudebec,  on  the  Seine,  to  which  its  natural  features  bear 
a  mngnifled  resemblance.  But  the  more  likely  origin  of  the  name  is  from  the  Indian 
word  kebec,  signifying  a  strait,  and  applied  to  the  comparative  narrowing  of  the  river 
above  the  Basin.  It  is,  however,  held  in  support  of  the  Norman  origin  of  the  name 
that  the  seal  of  William  de  la  Pole,  Earl  of  Suffolk  in  tho  loth  century,  bears  the 
title  of  Lord  of  Quebec.  This  noble  had  large  domains  in  France,  and  w.-is  the  vic- 
tor at  Crcvant  and  Compeigne,  aud  the  conqueror  uf  Joan  of  Arc,  but  woii  impeached 


i«a 


/■a 


»*-• 


M 


QUEBEC. 


Route  GS.      273 


in 


K^ 


and  put  to  death  (as  narrated  by  Shakespeare,  King  Henry  VT  ,  Part  II.,  Act  IV., 
Scene  1)  for  losing  the  English  provinces  iu  France  after  B^i  arduous  caniiwiigns. 

When  Cartier  went  to  Montreal  his  men  built  a  fort  and  prepared  winter-quarters 
near  the  St.  (Jharles  River,  Soon  after  his  return  an  iutenso  cold  set  in,  and  nearly 
every  man  in  the  tieet  was  stricken  down  with  the  scurvy, of  which  many  died  in 
great  suffering.  In  the  springtime,  Cartier  planted  the  cross  and  Heur-de-lis  on 
the  site  of  Quebec,  and  returned  to  France,  carrying  King  Donnacona  and  several 
of  his  chiefs  as  prisoners.  These  Indians  were  soon  afterwards  received  into  the 
Catholic  Cliurch,  with  much  pomp  and  ceremony,  and  died  within  a  year,  ia 
Franco.  In  1541  Carf'er  returned  with  5  vessels  and  erected  forts  at  Cap  Rouge, 
but  the  Indian<:  were  suspicious,  and  the  colony  was  soon  abandoned.  Soon  after- 
wards Roberval,  the  Viceroy  of  New  France,  founded  another  colony  on  the  same 
site,  but  after  a  long  and  miserable  winter  it  also  was  broken  up. 

In  the  year  1608  the  city  of  (iuebec  was  founded  by  the  noble  Champlain,!  who 
erected  a  fort  here,  and  laid  the  foundations  of  Canada.  A  party  of  Franciscan 
monks  arrived  in  1015,  and  the  Jesuits  came  in  1644.  In  1628  Sir  David  Kirke 
vainly  attacked  the  place  with  a  small  English  fleet,  but  in  1629  he  was  more  suc- 
cessful, and,  alter  a  long  blockade,  made  himself  master  of  Quebec.  It  was  restored 
to  Oanco  in  1632 ;  and  in  1635  Governor  Champlain  died,  and  was  buried  in  the 
Lower  Town.  Champlain's  successor  wa?.  Charles  de  Montmagny,  a  brave  and  de- 
vout Knijrht  of  Malta,  on  whom  the  Iroquois  bestowed  tlie  name  of  Onontio 
("  Great  Mountain  '').  The  work  of  founding  new  settlements  and  of  proselyting 
the  llurons  and  combating  the  Iroquois  was  continued  for  the  next  century  from 
the  rock  of  Quebec. 

After  the  king  had  erected  his  military  colonies  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  found 
that  another  element  was  necessary  in  order  to  make  them  permanent  and  progres- 
sive. Therefore,  between  1665  and  1673  he  sent  to  Quebec  1,000  girls,  most  of  whom 
were  of  the  French  peasantry  ;  though  the  Intendant,  mindful  of  the  tastes  of  his 
officers,  demanded  and  received  a  consignment  of  young  ladies  ("  dettioiselles  bien 
choisies'-).  These  cargoes  included  a  wide  variety,  from  Parisian  vagrants  to  Nor- 
man ladies,  and  were  maliciously  styled  by  one  of  the  chief  nuns,  "  mixed  goods  " 
(une  marchandise  vieUe).  The  government  provided  them  with  dowries  ;  bachelors 
were  excluded  by  law  from  trading,  fishing,  and  hunting,  and  were  distinguished  by 
"  marks  of  infamy  ";  and  the  French  Crown  gave  bounties  for  children  (each  inhab- 
itant who  had  10  children  being  entitled  to  a  pension  of  from  400  to  800  livres). 
About  the  year  1664  the  city  indulged  in  extraordinary  festivities  on  the  occasion 
of  the  arrival  of  the  bones  of  St.  Flavien  and  St.  Felicity,  which  the  Pope  had  pre- 
sented to  the  cathedral  of  Quebec.  These  honored  relics  were  borne  in  solemn  pro- 
cession through  the  streets,  amid  the  sounds  of  martial  music  and  the  roaring  of 
saluting  batteries,  and  were  escorted  by  the  Marquis  de  Tracy,  the  Intendant  Talon, 
and  the  valiant  Courcclles,  behind  wh  im  marched  the  royal  guards  and  the  famous 
Savoyard  regiment  of  Carignan-Salieres,  veterans  of  the  Turkish  campaigns.  The 
diocese  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  1674,  and  endowed  with  the  revenues  of  the  ancient 
abbeys  of  Maubec  and  Benevent.  In  the  same  ship  with  Bishop  Laval  came  Father 
Hennepin,  who  explored  the  Mississippi  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  the  fearless  explorer  La  Salle. 

In  1672  the  Count  de  Frontenac  was  sent  here  as  Governor,and  in  1690  he  bravely 
repulsed  an  attack  by  Sir  Wm.  Phipps's  fleet  (from  Boston),  inflicting  severe  damage 
by  a  cannonade  from  the  fort.  Besides  many  men ,  the  assailants  lost  their  admiral's 
standiird  and  several  ships.  In  1711  Sir  Ilovenden  Walker  sjiiled  from  Boston 
against  Quebec,  but  ho  lost  in  one  day  eight  vessels  and  884  men  by  shipwreck  on 
the  terrible  reefs  of  the  Egg  Islands.  Strong  fortifications  were  built  soon  after ;  and 
in  1759  Gen.  Wolfe  came  up  the  river  with  8,000  British  soldiers.  The  Marquis  de 
Bloutcalm  was  then  Governor,  and  he  moved  the  French  army  into  fortified  lines  on 
Beauport  Plains,  whore  ho  defeated  the  British  in  a  sanguinary  action.  On  tho 
night  of  Sept.  12,  Wolfe's  army  drifted  up  stream  on  tho  rising  tide,  and  succeeded 
in  scaling  the  stoop  cliffs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  fired  upon  by  the  French 
outposts  ;  but  before  Montcalm  could  bring  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles  the  Brit- 

*  Champlain  was  born  of  a  good  family  in  the  province  of  Sa  ntonge,  in  1570  Tie  became 
a  naval  olHcer,  nml  was  afterward  uttarhod  to  the  person  of  King  Henri  IV.    In  l(i03  lie  cx- 

filnrcfl  tlio  St.  J^nwrence  River  up  to  the  St.  Louis  Rapiils,  and  afterward  (until  his  death  In 
liU)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Ottawa.  Ho  was  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  that  "  the  salvation  of  one  soul  is  of  more  im- 
nortanec  than  the  foundinf;  of  a  new  empire.'  lie  established  strong  missious  among  tlie 
lluruus,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 

12*  a 


*■  >  •". 


F^ 


T 


274     Route  OS. 


QUEBEC. 


iBh  lines  were  fonned  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham  ;  and  in  the  short  but  desperate 
battle  which  ensued  both  the  generals  were  mortally  '"ounded.  The  English  lost 
664  men,  and  the  French  lost  1,500.  The  French  army,  which  was  largely  composed 
of  provincial  levies  (with  the  regiments  of  La  Guienne,  Royal  Roussilon,  Beam,  La 
Sarre,and  Languedoc),  gave  way,  and  retreated  across  the  St.  Charles,  and  a  few 
days  later  the  city  surrendered. 

In  April,  1760,  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  (of  that  Levis  family  —  Dukes  of  Ventadour 
—  which  claimed  to  possess  records  of  their  lineal  descent  from  the  patriarch  Levi) 
led  the  reorganised  French  army  to  St.  Foy,  near  Quebec.  Gen.  Murray,  hoping  to 
surprise  Levis,  a*ivanced(  with  3,000  men)  from  his  fine  position  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham  ;  but  tiie  French  were  vigilant,  and  Murray  was  defeated  and  hurled  back 
within  the  city  gates,  having  lost  1,000  men  and  20  cannon.  Levis  now  laid  close 
Biege  to  the  city,  and  battered  the  walls  (and  especially  St.  John's  Gate)  from  three 
heavy  field-works.  Quebec  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannonade  from  132 
guns,  until  Commodore  Swanton  came  up  the  river  with  a  fleet  from  England.  The 
British  supremacy  in  Canada  was  soon  afterwards  assured  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris, 
and  Voltaire  congratulated  Louis  XV.  on  being  rid  of"  1,500  leagues  of  frozen  coun- 
try." The  memorable  words  of  Gov.  Shirley  before  the  Massachusetts  Legislature 
(June  28, 1746),"  Canada  est  delenda,''^  were  at  last  verified,  but  the  campaigns  had 
cost  the  British  Government  $400,000,000,  and  resulted  in  the  loss  of  the  richest  of 
England's  colonics.  For  the  attempted  taxation  of  the  Americans,  which  resulted 
in  the  War  of  Independence,  was  planned  in  order  to  cover  the  deficit  caused  in  the 
British  Treasury  by  the  Canadian  campaigns. 

In  the  winterof  1775-6  the  Americans  besieged  the  city,  then  commanded  by  Gen. 
Guy  Carleton  (after*  nrds  made  Lord  Dorchester).  The  provisions  of  the  besiegers 
began  to  fail,  their  re.^imcnts  were  being  depleted  by  sickness,  and  their  light  guns 
made  but  little  impression  on  the  massive  city  walls ;  so  an  as.sault  was  ordered  and 
conducted  before  dawn  on  Dec.  31, 1775.  In  the  midst  of  a  heavy  snow-storm  Arnold 
advanced  through  the  Lower  Town  from  his  quarters  near  the  St.  Charles  River,  and 
led  his  800  New-Englanders  and  Virginians  over  two  or  three  barricades.  The  Mon- 
treal Bank  and  several  other  massive  stone  houses  were  filled  with  British  regulars, 
who  guarded  the  approaches  with  such  a  deadly  fire  that  Arnold's  men  were  forced 
to  take  refuge  in  the  adjoining  houses,  while  Arnold  himself  was  badly  wounded  and 
carried  to  the  rear.  Meanwhile  Montgomery  was  leading  his  New-Yorkers  and  Con- 
tinentals N.  along  Chauiplain  St.  by  the  river-side.  The  intention  was  for  the  two 
attacking  columns,  after  driving  the  enemy  f^-om  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  before 
the  Prescott  Gate  and  carry  it  by  storm.  A  strong  barricade  was  stretched  across 
Champlain  St.  from  the  cliff  to  the  river  ;  but  when  its  guards  saw  the  great  masses 
of  the  attacking  column  advancing  through  the  twilight,  they  fled.  In  all  proba- 
bility Montgomery  would  have  crossed  the  barricade,  delivered  Arnold's  men  by  at- 
tacking the  enem  in  the  rear,  and  then,  with  1,500  men  flushed  witli  victory,  would 
have  escaladed  the  Prescott  Gate  and  won  Quebec  and  Canada,  —  but  that  one  of 
the  fleeing  Canadians,  impelled  by  a  strange  caprice,  turned  quickly  back,  and  fired 
the  cannon  which  stood  loaded  on  the  barricade.  Montgomery  and  many  of  his 
oflicers  and  men  were  stricken  down  by  the  shot,  and  the  column  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  fled.  The  British  forces  were  now  concentrated  on  Arnold's  men,  who 
were  hemmed  in  by  a  sortie  from  the  Palace  Gate,  and  426  officers  and  men  were 
made  prisoners.  A  painted  board  has  been  hung  high  up  on  the  cliff  over  the 
place  in  Champlain  St.  where  Montgomery  fell.  Montgomery  was  an  officer  in  Wolfe's 
army  when  Quebec  was  taken  from  the  French  15  years  before,  and  knew  the 
ground.  His  mistake  was  in  heading  the  forlorn  hope.  Quebec  was  the  capital  of 
Canada  from  1760  to  1791,  and  after  that  it  served  as  a  semi-capital,  until  the  found- 
ing of  Ottawa  City.  In  1845,  2,900  houses  were  burnt,  and  the  place  was  nearly 
destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber-trade,  which  is  still  its 
specialty. 

In  September,  1874,  Quebec  was  filled  with  prelates,  priests,  and  enthusiastic 
people,  and  the  second  centennial  of  the  foundation  of  the  diocese  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp.  Nine  triumphal  arches,  in  Latin,  Byzantine,  Romanesque,  Classic, 
and  Gothic  architecture,  were  erected  over  the  streets  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  dedi- 
cated to  the  metropolitan  dioceses  of  North  America  ;  an  imposing  procession  passed 
under  them  and  into  the  Cathedral,  which  was  endowed  on  that  day  with  the  name 
and  privileges  of  a  basilica;  and  at  evening  the  city  was  illuminated,  at  a  cost  of 
$30,000.  In  the  pageant  was  borne  the  ancient  flag  of  Ticonderoga  {Le  Drapeau  de 
Carillon),  which  floated  over  Montcalm's  victorious  army  when  he  defeated  Ab«r- 


i 


T 


but  desperate 
}  English  lost 
fely  composed 
in,  Beam,  La 
es,  and  a  few 

of  Ventndour 
ilriarch  Levi) 
ray,  hoping  to 
the  Plains  of 
hurled  back 
ow  laid  close 
')  from  three 
ade  from  132 
ngland.  The 
eaty  of  Paris, 
f  frozen  coun- 
8  Legislature 
impaigns  had 
the  richest  of 
hich  resulted 
caused  in  the 

mded  by  Gen. 
the  besiegers 
;ir  light  guns 
I  ordered  and 
storm  Arnold 
les  River,  and 
8.     The  Mon- 
tish  regulars, 
1  were  forced 
wounded  and 
ters  and  Con- 
s  for  the  two 
•  unite  before 
etched  across 
great  masses 
In  all  proba- 
's  men  by  at- 
ictory,  would 
that  one  of 
ck,  and  fired 
many  of  his 
broke  up  in 
I's  men,  who 
id  men  were 
;lilT  over  the 
:er  in  Wolfe's 
id  knew  the 
le  capital  of 
til  the  found- 
e  was  nearly 
ch  is  still  its 

enthusiastic 
IS  celebrated 
ique,  Classic, 
n,  and  dcdi- 
pssion  passed 
::h  the  name 
at  a  cost  of 
Drapemi  de 
fc>ated  Aber- 


\ 


QUEBEC. 


Route  GS.      275 


crombio  on  Lake  Champlain  (July  8, 1758),  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  esteemed 
trophies  of  Quebec.  

The  annals  of  the  Church  contain  no  grander  chapter  than  that  which  records 
the  career  of  the  Canadian  Jesuits.  Unuruied  and  alone,  they  passed  forth  from 
Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  traversed  all  the  wide  regiou  between  L:ibrador  and  tho 
remote  West,  bravely  meeting  death  in  its  most  lingering  and  horrible  forms  at 
the  hands  of  the  vindictive  savages  whom  they  came  to  bless.  Their  achievements 
and  their  fate  filled  the  world  with  amazement.  Even  Puritan  New  England, 
proudly  and  sternly  jealous  of  her  religious  liberty,  received  their  envoy  with 
honors;  Boston,  Plymouth,  and  Salem  alike  became  his  gracious  hosts;  and  the 
Apostle  Eliot  entertained  him  at  his  lloxbury  parsonage,  and  urged  him  to  remain. 

"  To  the  Jesuits  the  atmosphere  of  Quebec  was  wellnigh  celestial.  'In  the  cli- 
mate of  New  France,'  they  write,  '  one  learns  perfectly  to  seek  only  one  God,  to 
have  no  desire  but  God,  no  purpose  but  for  God.'  And  again:  'To  live  in  New 
France  is  in  truth  to  live  in  the  bosom  of  God.'  '  If,'  adds  Le  Jeune,  'any  one  of 
tliose  who  die  iu  this  country  goes  to  perdition,  I  think  he  will  be  doubly  guilty.'  " 

"  Meanwhile  from  Old  France  to  New  came  succors  and  reinforcements  to  the 
missions  of  the  forest.  More  .Jesuits  cro.ssed  the  sea  to  urge  on  the  work  of  conver- 
sion. These  were  no  stern  exiles,  seeking  on  barbarous  shores  an  asylum  for  a  per- 
secuted faith.  Rank,  wealth,  power,  and  royalty  itself  smilei  on  their  enterprise, 
and  bade  them  God-speed.  Yet,  withal,  a  fervor  more  intense,  a  self-abnegation 
more  complete,  a  self-devotion  more  constant  and  enduring,  will  scarcely  find  its 

record  on  the  pages  of  human  history It  was  her  nobler  and  purer  part  that 

gave  life  to  the  early  nussions  of  New  France.  That  gloomy  wilderness,  those 
hordes  of  savages,  had  nothing  to  tempt  the  ambitious,  the  proud,  the  grasping,  or 
the  indolent.  Obscure  toil,  solitude,  privation,  hardship,  and  death  were  to  be  the 
missionary's  portion 

"  The  Jesuits  had  borne  all  that  the  human  frame  seems  capable  of  bearing. 
They  had  escaped  as  by  miracle  from  torture  and  death.  Did  their  zeal  flag  or  their 
courage  fail  ?  A  fervor  intense  and  unquenchable  urged  them  on  to  more  distant 
and  more  deadly  ventures.  The  beings,  so  near  to  mortal  sympathies,  so  human, 
yet  .so  divine,  in  whom  their  faith  impersonated  and  dramatized  the  great  principles 
of  Christian  faith,  — virgins,  saints,  and  angels,  — hovered  over  them,  and  held  be- 
fore their  raptured  sight  crowns  of  glory  and  garlands  of  immortal  bliss.  They 
burned  to  do,  to  sulfer,  and  to  die  ;  and  now,  from  out  a  living  martyrdom,  they 
turned  their  heroic  gaze  towards  an  horizon  dark  with  perils  yet  more  appalling,  and 
gaw  in  hope  the  day  when  they  should  bear  the  cross  into  the  blood-stained  dens  of 
the  Iroquois. 

In  1(U7,  when  the  powerful  and  bloodthirsty  Iroquois  were  sweeping  over  Can- 
ada in  all  directions,  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuits  wrote:  "  Do  not  imagine  that  the 
rage  of  the  Iroquois,  and  the  loss  of  many  Christians  and  many  catechumens,  can 
bring  to  naught  the  mystery  of  the  cross  of  Jesus  Christ  and  the  efficacy  of  his 
blood.  We  shall  die ;  we  shall  be  captured,  burned,  butchered:  be  it  so.  Those 
who  die  in  their  beds  do  not  always  die  the  best  death.  I  see  none  of  our  company 
cast  down.  On  the  contrary,  they  ask  leave  to  go  up  to  the  Ilurons,  and  some  of 
tliem  protest  that  the  fires  of  the  Iroquois  are  one  of  their  motives  for  the  journey." 
"  The  iron  Brebeuf,  the  gentle  Gamier,  the  all-enduring  Jogues,  the  enthusiastic 
Chaumonot,  Lalemant,  Le  Mercier,  Chatelain,  Daniel,  Pijart,  Rogueneau,  Du  Peron, 
Poncet,  Le  Moyne,  —  one  and  all  bore  themselves  with  a  tranquil  boldness,  whicli 

amazed  the  Indians  and  enforced  their  respect When  we  look  for  the  result 

of  tiiese  missions,  we  soon  become  aware  that  the  influence  of  the  French  and  tho 
Jesuits  extended  far  beyond  the  circle  of  converts.  It  eventually  modified  and 
softened  the  manners  of  many  unconverted  tribes.  In  the  wars  of  the  next  century 
we  do  not  often  find  those  examples  of  diabolic  atrocity  with  which  the  earlier  an- 
nals are  crowded.  The  savage  burned  his  enemies  alive,  it  is  true,  but  he  seldom 
ate  them ;  neither  did  he  torment  them  with  the  same  deliberation  and  persistency. 
He  was  a  savage  still,  but  not  so  often  a  devil."    (Parkman.) 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  study  more  closely  this  sublime  episode  in  the  New- 
World  history  may  consult  the  brilliant  and  picturesque  historical  narratives  of  Mr. 
Francis  Parkman  :  "  The  Jesuits  of  North  America,"  "  Tho  Pioneers  of  France  ia 
the  New  ^Vorld,"  and  "  The  Discovery  of  tho  Great  West." 


27G     Jtmtte  GO. 


BEAUFORT. 


T 


ll-!!;';' 


69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec. 

This  district  is  famed  for  its  beauty,  and  is  filled  with  objerts  of  interest  to  the 
tourist.  The  suburban  villages  can  be  visited  by  i)edestrian  tours ;  liut  in  that 
case  it  is  best  to  cut  olf  connnuuicatiun  with  the  city,  and  to  sweep  around  on  the 
great  curve  which  includes  the  chief  points  of  attraction.  The  village  inns  furnish 
poor  accommodations.  Sucli  a  walking  tour  .sliould  be  taken  only  after  a  season  of 
dry  weather,  else  the  roads  will  be  found  very  muddy.  But  all  the  world  goes  about 
in  carriages  litre,  and  a  caliche  and  driver  ran  be  liired  af  very  low  rates  (sec  page 
255).  The  drivers'  statements  of  distances  can  seldom  bo  relied  on,  for  they  gen- 
erally err  on  the  side  of  expansion. 

"I  don't  know  whetlier  I  cared  more  for  Quebec  or  the  beautiful  little  Tillages  in 
the  country  all  about  it.  The  whole  landscape  looks  just  like  a  dream  of  '  Evan- 
geline.' ....  But  if  we  are  coming  to  the  grand  and  beautiful,  wliy,  there  is  no 
direction  in  which  you  an  look  about  Quebec  without  seeing  it ;  and  it  is  always 
mixed  up  with  somi'thing  so  famiiiar  and  homelike  that  my  heart  warms  to  it." 
(lIowELLs's  A  Chance  Acc/uaintance.) 

**  The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  7  M.  from  the  Dorchester  Bridge, 
which  is  about  1  M.  from  the  Upper-Town  Market  Square.  The  route 
usually  taken  leads  down  Palace  St.  and  by  the  Queen's  Fuel- Yard  (see 
page  271)  and  St.  Roch's  Church.  As  the  bridge  is  being  crossed,  the 
Marhie  Hoi^pital  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  shipyards  of  St. 
Roch's  Ward  and  the  suburb  of  St.  Charles.  The  road  is  broad  and  firm, 
and  leads  across  a  fertile  plain,  with  fine  retrospective  views.  The  Beau- 
part  Lu:iatic  Asylum  is  soon  reached,  near  \>incli  is  the  villa  of  Glenalla. 
The  asylum  formerly  consisted  of  two  large  buildings,  one  for  each  sex; 
but  the  female  department  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  Januarj'-,  1875,  and 
several  of  its  inmates  were  burnt  with  it.  Beauport  is  3^-5  M.  from 
Quebec,  and  is  a  long-drawn-out  village  of  1,300  inhabitants,  with  a  tall 
and  stately  church  whoso  twin  spires  are  seen  from  a  great  distance. 
There  are  several  flour  and  barley  mills  in  the  parish,  and  a  considerable 
lumber  business  is  done.  The  seigniory  was  founded  in  1634  by  the  Sieur 
Gifiard,  and  along  its  plains  was  some  of  the  heaviest  fighting  of  the  war 
of  the  Conquest  of  Canada. 

It  is  "  in  that  part  of  Canada  which  waa  the  first  to  be  settled,  and  where  the  face 
of  the  country  and  the  people  have  undergone  the  least  change  from  the  beginning, 
where  the  influence  of  the  States  and  of  Europe  is  least  felt,  and  the  inhabitants  see 
little  or  nothing  of  the  world  over  the  walls  of  Quebec."  The  road  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Joachim  is  lined  by  a  continuous  succession  of  the  quaint  and  solid  little  Cana- 
dian houses  of  whitewashed  stone,  placed  at  an  angle  with  the  street  in  order  to, 
face  the  south.  The  farms  are  consequently  remarkably  narrow  (sometimes  but  a 
few  yards  wide  and  J  M.  long),  and  the  country  is  bristling  with  fences.  In  1G64 
the  French  king  forbade  that  the  colonists  should  make  any  more  clearings,  "  except 
one  next  to  another"  ;  but  in  1745  he  was  obligetl  to  order  that  their  farms  should 
bo  not  less  than  IJ  arpents  wide.  These  narrow  domains  arose  from  the  social  char- 
acter of  the  people,  who  were  thus  brought  close  together ;  from  their  need  of  cca- 
centration  as  a  defence  against  the  Indians ;  and  from  the  subdivision  of  esfcites  by 
inheritance.  The  Latin  Catholicism  of  the  villagers  is  shown  by  roadside  crosses 
rising  here  and  there  along  the  way. 

So  late  as  1827  Montmorenci  County  (which  is  nearly  as  large  as  Massachusetts) 
had  but  5  shops,  30  artisans,  2  schools,  5  churches  (all  Catholic),  and  5  vessels  (with 
an  aggregate  of  59  tons).  There  has  been  but  little  change  since.  In  1861,  out  of 
11,136  inhabitants  in  the  county,  10,708  were  of  French  origin,  of  whom  but  a  few 
score  understand  the  English  language. 


% 


19 

A' 


terost  to  the 
but  in  that 
ouud  on  tlio 
inns  furnish 
!•  n  season  of 
tl  Roes  about 
tes  (sec  page 
)r  they  geu- 


Ic  villapes  in 
n  of  ♦  Evan- 
there  is  no 
I  it  is  always 
irnis  to  it." 


:er  Bridj^e, 
The  route 
-Yanl  (see 
•osRcd,  the 
iirds  of  St. 
I  and  firm, 
The  Benu- 
r  Glenalhi. 
each  sex; 

1875,  and 
5  M.  from 
witli  a  tall 

distance, 
nsiderable 

the  Sieur 
of  the  war 


ere  the  face 
beginning, 
ibitants  see 
1  Quebec  to 
Httle  Cana- 
in  order  to. 
imcs  but  a 
s.  In  1GG4 
;s,  "  except 
rnis  should 
5ocial  cliar- 
;;ed  of  cca- 
estiitcs  by 
iide  crosses 

sachusctts) 
^ssels  (with 
861,  out  of 
D  but  a  few 


MONTMORENCI  FALLS.        Route  GO.      277 

M.  Ramcau  ("La  France  aux  Colonies''^)  has  prore<l,  after  much  labor  and  ro- 
scarcli,  that  the  colonists  who  settled  the  Cote  do  Hi%aupr»5  and  lleauport  were  from 
tlie  ancient  French  province  of  La  I'erciio  ;  adding  that  Montreal  was  oolotii/ed  from 
the  province  of  Anjou,  the  Isle  of  Orleans  from  Toitou,  and  Quebec,  Trois  Itiviurcs, 
and  the  llichelicu  valley  from  Normandy. 

Beyond  tho  church  of  Bcauport  the  road  continues  past  the  narrow  do- 
mains on  cither  hand,  and  runs  along  tlie  side  of  the  Ilaldimand  estate.  The 
I\Iontmorenci  River  is  crossed,  and  the  traveller  stops  at  tho  Montmorenci 
Restaurant,  where  lunch  may  be  obtained.  At  this  point  admission  is 
given  to  tho  grounds  about  the  Falls  (fee,  25c. ) ;  and  tho  tourist  should 
visit  not  only  the  pavilion  near  the  brink  (which  commands  a  chanuing 
view  of  Quebec),  but  also  the  small  platform  lower  down  (and  reached  by 
a  long  stairway),  whence  the  best  front-view  is  obtained.  The  descent  to 
the  basin  below  is  difUcult,  and  will  hardly  repay  the  labor  of  the  return. 
A  short  distance  below  the  Falls  is  the  confluence  of  tho  Montmorenci 
w^ith  the  St.  Liiwrence,  and  immense  saw-mills  are  located  there,  employ- 
ing 7  -  500  men  and  cutting  up  2,500  logs  a  day.  iSear  the  Falls  is  Ilaldi- 
mand House,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria's 
father;  and  on  the  cliffs  by  the  river  are  seen  tho  towers  of  a  suspension- 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  into  tho 
ftital  abyss  below.  At  the  foot  of  these  Falls  an  immense  ice-cone  (some- 
times 200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every  winter,  and  here  the  favorite  sport  of 
tobogginning  is  carried  on.  The  *  Natural  Steps  are  1^  M.  above  tho 
Falls,  where  the  Montmorenci  is  contracted  into  a  narrovv  limit  and  rushes 
down  with  great  velocity,  having  cut  its  bed  down  through  successive 
strata  and  leaving  step-like  terraces  on  cither  side.  Fine  specimens  of 
trilobites  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

The  road  running  on  beyond  the  Montmorenci  Restaurant  leads  to  Ange 


Gardien  and  St.  Anne  (see  Route  70). 
Quebec  are  very  beautiful. 


The  views  on  the  way  back  to 


The  old  French  habilans  call  tho  Montmorenci  Fall,  Im  Vache  ("The  Cow"),  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  its  foaming  waters  to  milk.  Others  attribute  this 
name  to  the  noise  like  the  lowing  of  a  cow  which  is  made  by  the  Fall  during  the 
prevalence  of  certain  '^vinds.  Immediately  about  the  basin  and  aV-ng  the  Mont- 
morenci River,  many  severe  actions  took  place  during  Wolfe's  siege  of  Quebec. 
This  river  was  for  a  time  the  location  of  the  picket-lines  of  the  British  and  French 
armies. 

"  It  is  a  very  simple  and  noble  fall,  and  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired It  is  a 

splendid  introduction  to  tlie  scenery  of  Quebec.  Instead  of  an  artificial  fountain  in 
its  square,  Quebec  has  this  magnificent  natural  waterfall  to  adorn  one  side  of  its 
harbor."    (Thoreao.) 

"  The  effect  on  the  beholder  is  most  delightful.  The  river,  at  some  distance, 
seems  suspended  in  the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contrasted,  as  it  is, 
with  the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  in- 
terest. It  has  been  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  susptmded  in  the  air  ;  this  com- 
parison does  justice  to  the  delicacy,  but  not  to  the  grandeur  of  the  cataract."    (Sii/- 

UMAN.) 

"  A  safe  platform  leads  along  the  rocks  to  a  pavilion  on  a  point  at  the  side  of  the 
fall,  and  on  a  level  with  it.  Here  the  gulf,  nearly  300  ft.  deep,  with  its  walls  of 
chocolate-covered  earth,  and  its  patches  of  emerald  lierbage,  wet  with  eternal  spray, 
opens  to  the  St.  Lawrence.    Montmorenci  is  one  of  the  loveliest  waterfalls.    la  j^ 


t 


i^ll 


m 


,11 


iW 


m 


I 


278      Pcoute  GO. 


INDIAN  LORETTE. 


general  character  it  bears  Bomo  resemblanco  to  the  Plsso-Vache,  in  Switzerland, 
which,  however,  is  mucli  smaller.  The  water  is  nnow-white,  tinted,  in  the  heaviest 
portions  of  the  fall,  with  a  soft  yellow,  like  that  of  raw  silk.  In  fact,  broken  tu*  it  is 
by  tlie  irreRiiIar  eilge  of  the  rook,  it  reminds  one  of  masses  of  silken,  ttossy  skeins, 
continually  overlapping  one  another  «s  they  fall.  At  the  bottom,  dashed  upon  a 
J'ile  of  rwks,  it  shoots  far  out  in  star-like  radii  of  spray,  which  share  tlie  regular 
tlirol)  or  pulsation  of  the  falliiiR  masses.  The  ed^es  of  the  fall  flutter  out  into 
lace-like  points  and  fringes,  which  dissolve  into  gauze  as  they  descend."  (Batard 
Taylor.) 

"  The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  present  the  most  majestic  spectacle  in  all  this  vicin- 
ity, and  even  in  the  i'rovince.  The  river,  in  its  course  through  a  country  which  is 
covered  with  an  almost  unbroken  forest,  hat)  an  inconsiderable  flow  of  water  except 
when  swelled  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  or  tlie  autumnal  rains,  until  it  reaches  the 
precipice,  where  it  is  8  - 10  fathoms  wide.  Its  bed,  beiug  inclined  before  arriving  at 
this  point,  gives  a  great  velocity  to  the  current,  which,  pushed  on  to  the  verge  of  a 
perpendicular  rock,  forms  a  largo  sheet  of  water  of  a  whiteness  and  a  fleecy  appear- 
ance which  resembles  snow,  in  fairMi<;  i.i  a  chasm  among  the  rocks  [251]  ft.  below. 
At  the  bottom  there  rises  an  immenst  foam  in  undulating  masses,  which,  when 
the  sun  lights  up  their  brilliaat  prismatic  colors,  produces  an  inconceivably  beauti- 
ful effect."    (BoucuETTE.) 

'•  For  tb  tsc  who  go  from  Montmorenci  to  Quebec,  the  time  to  be  on  the  road  is 
about  sunset.  The  city,  rlimbing  up  from  the  great  river  to  the  heights,  on  which 
stands  the  castle,  looks  especially  beautiful  in  the  warm  light  that  then  falls  full  upon 
it,  and  the  level  rays,  striking  on  the  quaint  old  metal-sheathed  roofs  and  on  all  the 
westward-facing  windows,  light  up  the  town  with  a  diamond-like  sparkling  of  won- 
derful brilliancy."    (White's  Sketches  from  America.) 

*  Indian  Lorette  (small  inn)  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Little  Eiver 
Road.  It  is  an  ancient  village  of  the  Ilurons  ("Catholics  and  allies  of 
France"),  and  the  present  inhabitants  arc  a  quiet  and  religious  people  in 
•whom  the  Indian  blood  predominates,  thougli  it  is  never  unmixed.  The 
men  hunt  and  fish,  the  women  make  bead-work  and  moccasons,  and  the 
boys  earn  pennies  by  dexterous  archery.  There  are  GO  Huron  families 
here,  and  their  quaint  little  church  is  ■worthy  of  notice.  The  population 
of  the  parish  is  3,500,  and  the  district  is  devoted  to  farming.  The 
*  Lorette  Falls  are  near  the  mill,  and  are  very  pretty. 

The  best  description  of  Lorette  is  given  in  Iloweils's  A  Chance  Acquaintance 
(Chap.  XIII.),  from  which  the  following  note  is  extracted  :  "  The  road  to  Lorette  is 
througli  St.  John's  Gate,  down  into  the  outlying  meadows  and  rye-fielus,  where, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  swift  St.  Charles,  it  finally  rises  at  Lorette  above  the  level 
of  the  citadel.  It  is  a  lonelier  road  than  that  to  Montmorenci,  and  the  scattering 
cottages  upon  it  have  not  the  well-to-do  prettiness,  the  operatic  repair,  of  stone-built 
Beauport.    But  they  are  charming,  nevertheless,  and  the  people  seem  to  be  remoter 

from  modern  influences By  and  by  they  came  to  Jeune-Lorette,  an  almost 

ideally  pretty  hamlet,  bordering  the  road  on  either  hand  with  gallcried  and  balconied 
little  houses,  from  which  the  people  bowed  to  them  as  they  passed,  and  piously  en- 
closing in  its  midst  the  village  church  and  churchyard.  They  soon  afler  reached 
Lorette  itself,  which  they  might  easily  have  known  for  an  Indian  town  by  its  un- 
kempt air,  and  the  irregular  attitudes  in  which  the  shabby  cabins  lounged  along 

the  lanes  that  wandered  through  it The  cascade,  with  two  or  three  successive 

leaps  above  the  road,  plunges  lieadlong  down  a  steep,  crescent-shaped  slope,  and 
hides  its  foamy  whiteness  in  the  dark-foliaged  ravine  below.  It  is  a  wonder  of 
graceful  motion,  of  iridescent  lights  and  delicious  shadows ;  a  shape  of  loveliness  that 
seems  instinct  with  a  conscious  life." 

Charles  Marshall  says,  in  his  "  Canadian  Dominion  "  (London,  1871) :  "  For  pic- 
turesque beauty  the  environs  of  Quebec  vie  with  tho.«e  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
....  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  Lorette  cascades  would  give  fame  and  for- 
tune to  any  spot  in  England  or  France  ;  yet  here,  dwarfed  by  grander  waters,  they 
xemaiu  comparatively  unknown." 


CIIARLESBOURG. 


Route  CD.      279 


Switzerland, 
the  heuvitmt 
r)kon  u»  it  is 
oHsy  skeins, 
lied  upon  a 
tiic  regular 
er  out  into 
"    (Bataro 

1  this  vlcin- 
;ry  which  is 
ater  except 
reaches  the 
arriving  nt 
J  verge  of  a 
ecy  appcar- 
[]  ft.  below, 
hich,  when 
ibly  beauti- 


the  road  Is 
f,  on  which 
I  Is  full  upon 
il  on  all  the 
ing  of  won- 

ittle  Kiver 
.1  allies  of 
people  in 
xcd.  Tiio 
s,  and  the 
a  families 
population 
ing.     The 


cquaintance 

0  Lorette  is 
elus,  where, 
)ve  the  level 
e  scattering 
''  stone-built 

be  remoter 
,  an  almost 
id  balconied 

piously  en- 
ter reached 

1  by  its  un- 
inged  along 
3  successive 
I  slope,  and 

wonder  of 
eliness  that 

;  "  For  pic- 

the  world. 

me  and  for- 

raters,  they 


When  the  French  came  to  Canada  the  Ilurons  were  a  powerful  nation  on  Ihe 
shores  of  Lakes  Huron  and  8imcoe,  with  32  vllliipes  and  20-;i<>,(l00  iaiiiibitants. 
Tlioy  received  the  .Fesuit  mi.isionaries  gladly,  and  were  speedily  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity.    Many  of  them  wore  their  hair  in  bristling  ridges,  whence  certain  aston- 
ished Frenchmen,  on  first  seeing  them,  exclaimed"  Qiielles  hurex.'  "  ("  What  hilars' 
heads!  ")  and  the  name  of  Huron  supplanted  their  proper  title  of  Ouendat  or  Wynn- 
dot.    The  Iroquois,  or  Five  Nations  (of  New  York),  were  their  mortal  foes,  and  after 
many  years  of  most  barbarous  warfare,  succeeded  in  storming  the  Christian  Huron 
towns  of  St.  Jo.scph,  St.  Ignace,  and  St.  Louis.    The  nation  was  annihilated :  a  few 
of  its  people  fled  to  the  far  West,  and  are  now  known  as  the  WyandotJi ;  multitudes 
were  made  slaves  among  the  Iroquois  villages  ;  10,00()  were  killed  in  battle  or  in  the 
subjugated  towns  ;  and  the  mournful  remnant  fled  to  Quebec.    Hundreds  of  them 
were  swept  away  from  the  Isle  of  Orleans  by  a  during  Iroquois  raid  ;  the  survivors 
encamped  under  the  guns  of  the  fort  for  10  years,  then  moved  to  8t.  Foy ;  and,  about 
the  year  1673,  this  feeble  fragment  of  the  great  Huron  nation  settled  at  Anciennn 
Lorette.    It  was  under  the  care  of  the  Jesuit  Chaumonot,  who,  while  a  mere  boy, 
had  stolen  a  small  sum  of  money  and  fled  from  France  into  Lombardy.   In  filth  and 
poverty  he  begged  his  way  to  Ancona,  and  thence  to  Loretto,  where,  at  the  Holy 
Ilouse,  he  had  an  angelic  vision.    He  went  to  Rome,  became  a  Jesuit,  and  experi- 
enced another  miracle  from  Loretto ;  after  which  he  passed  to  the  Huron  mission 
in  Canada,  where  he  was  delivered  from  martyrdom  by  the  aid  of  St.  Michael.     Ho 
erected  at  Ancieune  Lorette  a  chapel  in  exact  fac-simlle  of  the  IL.ly  House  at  Lo- 
retto ;  and  here  he  claimed  that  many  miracles   were  performed.     In  1697  tho 
Ilurons  moved  to  New  Loretto,  "a  wild  spot,  covered  with  the  primitive  forest, 
and  seamed  by  a  deep  and  tortuous  ravine,  where  the  St.  Charles  foams,  white  as  a 
snow-drift,  over  tho  black  ledges,  and  where  the  sunshine  struggles  through  matted 
boughs  of  the  pine  and  the  tir,  to  bask  for  brief  moments  on  tho  mossy  rocks  or 
flash  on  the  hurrying  waters.    On  a  plateau  beside  the  torrent,  another  chapel  was 
built  to  Our  Lady,  and  another  Huron  town  sprang  up ;  and  here  to  this  day,  tho 
tourist  finds  the  remnant  of  a  lost  people,  harmless  weavers  of  baskets  and  sewers 
of  moccasons,  the  Huron  blood  fast  bleaching  out  of  them,  as,  with  every  generation, 
they  mingle  and  fade  away  in  the  French  population  around."    (Parkman.  ) 

Visitors  to  Lorette  are  recommended  to  return  to  Quebec  by  anrther 
road  from  that  on  which  they  went  out.  Ancienne  Lorette  may  be  reached 
from  this  point,  and  so  may  tho  lakes  of  Beauport  and  St,  Charles,  li 
days'  journey  to  the  N.  is  Lac  Rond,  famous  for  its  fine  hunting  and  fi.shing. 

Charlesbourg  (Huot's  boarding-house)  is  4  M.  from  Quebec,  on  a  far- 
viewing  ridge,  and  is  clustered  about  a  venerable  convent  and  old  church 
(with  copies  of  the  Last  Communion  of  St.  Jerome  and  the  Sistine  Ma- 
donna over  its  altars).  It  is  the  chef-lieu  of  the  seigniory  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Anges,  and  its  products  are  lumber  and  oats.  To  this  point  (then 
known  as  Bourg  Royal)  retired  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Isle  of  OrJsans,  in 
1759,  when  ordered  by  Montcalm  to  fall  back  before  the  British.  They 
were  2,500  in  number,  and  were  led  by  their  cur^s.  Pleasant  roads  lead 
from  Charlesbourg  to  Lorette,  Lake  St.  Charles,  Lake  Beauport,  and  Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake  St.  Charles  is  11  M.  from  Quebec,  and  6  M.  from  Lorette.  It  is 
4  M.  long,  and  its  waters  are  very  clear  and  deep.  The  red  trout  of  this 
lake  are  of  delicate  flavor.    There  is  a  remarkable  echo  from  the  shores. 

"  On  arriving  at  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  the  spectator  is  delighted  by  the  beauty 

and  picturesque  wildness  of  its  banks Trees  grow  immediately  on  the  borders 

of  the  water,  which  is  indented  by  several  points  advancing  into  it,  and  forming  lit- 
tle bays.  The  lofty  hills  which  suddenly  rise  towards  the  N.,  in  shapes  singular 
and  diversified,  are  overlooked  by  mouutains  which  exalt,  beyond  them,  their  more 
distant  summits."    (Heriot.) 


I 

j, 


f 


,11' 


280      Jtoute  CD. 


CHATEAU  BIGOT. 


'll 


H!  ^ 


\:\ 


Ch&teau  Bigot  is  about  7  M.  from  Quebec,  by  way  of  Chnrlcsbourg, 
where  the  traveller  turns  to  the  r.  around  the  churcli,  and  rides  for  2  M. 
along  a  ridge  which  alTords  channing  views  of  the  city  on  the  r.  '•  It  is  a 
lovely  road  out  to  Chilteau  Bigot.  First  you  drive  througli  the  ancient 
suburbs  of  the  Lower  Town,  and  then  you  mount  the  smooth,  hard  high- 
way, between  pretty  country-houses,  towards  the  village  of  Charlesbourg, 
while  Quebec  shows,  to  your  casual  backward  glance,  like  n  wondrous 
painted  scene,  with  the  spires  and  lofty  roofs  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  the 
long,  irregular  wall  wandering  on  the  verge  of  theclifl';  then  the  thronging 
gables  and  chimneys  of  St.  lioch,  and  again  many  spires  and  convent 
walls."  The  ruins  of  the  Chateau  are  only  reached  after  driving  for  some 
distance  through  a  narrow  wheel-track,  half  overgrown  with  foliage.  There 
remain  the  gables  and  division-wall,  in  thick  masonry,  with  a  deep  cellar, 
outside  of  which  are  heaps  of  d(5bri3,  over  which  grow  alders  and  lilacs. 
The  ruins  are  in  a  cleared  space  over  a  little  brook  where  trout  are 
found ;  and  over  it  is  the  low  and  forest-covered  ridge  of  La  Montague  dea 
Ormea. 

This  land  was  in  the  Piefrh  la  Triniti,  which  was  granted  about  tho  year  1640  to 
M.  Denis,  of  La  Kochcllo.  Tlio  cliltcau  was  built  for  liis  feudal  mansion  by  the 
Koyal  Intendant  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  and  was  afterwards  occupied  by  tho  last 
Koyal  Intendant,  M.  Bigot,  a  dinsolute  and  licentious  Frencii  satrap,  wlio  stole 
$2,000,000  from  the  treasury.  The  legend  tells  that  Bigot  used  this  building  for  a 
hunting-lodge  and  place  of  revels,  and  that  once,  wlillc  pursuing  a  bear  among  the 
hills,  he  got  lost,  and  was  guided  back  tu  tlio  chtlteau  by  a  lovely  Algonquin  maiden 
whom  he  had  met  in  the  forest.  81ie  remained  in  tiiis  building  for  a  long  time,  in 
a  luxurious  boudoir,  and  was  visited  frequently  b^  tl:e  Intendant;  but  one  niglit 
she  was  assassinated  by  some  unlinown  prson,  — citlier  M.  Higot's  wife,  or  lier  own 
niotlier,  avenging  the  dishonor  to  lier  tribe  (see  "  Chfiteau  Bigot,"  by  J.  M.  LeMoino, 
fiold  at  the  Quebec  bookstores  for  10c. ;  also  Uowells's  A  Chance  Acquaintance, 
Chap.  XII.). 

Sillery  (or  St.  Colomb)  is  3  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Grand  Allde  and 
the  Cap-Rouge  Road  (sec  page  270).  After  passing  Wolfe's  Monument, 
the  road  leads  across  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  on  which  were  fought  the 
sanguinary  battles  of  1759  and  1760.  Sillery  is  a  parish  of  3,000  inhab- 
itants, on  whose  river  front  are  17  coves,  where  most  of  the  lumber  of 
Quebec  is  guarded.  The  Convent  of  Jesus-Maria  is  a  new  building  of  great 
size  and  imposing  architecture;  opposite  whi».h  is  the  handsome  Gothic 
school  house  which  was  given  to  this  parish  by  Bishop  [Mountain.  In  the 
vicinityof  Sillery  are  several  fine  villas,  amid  ornamental  grounds:  March- 
montj  once  the  home  of  Sir  John  Harvey  and  Bishop  Stewart;  Spencer 
Wood,  "the  most  beautiful  domain  of  Sillerj',  or,  it  can  be  said,  of  Canada," 
with  a  park  of  80  acres,  formerly  the  home  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin  and  other 
Canadian  governors;  Woodfekl,  founded  by  the  Bishop  of  Samos  injiarti- 
bus  infidehu.n;  Spencer  G ranye,  whero  lives  J.  M.  LcMoine,  the  author 
and  antiquarian;  Bardfeld,  Bishop  Mountain's  former  home;  Cataracouy, 
where  the  British  princes,  Albert  Edward  and  Alfred,  sojourned;  Benmore, 
Col.  Rhodes's  estate ;  and  several  others.  The  beautiful  cemetery  of  Mount 


\ 


w 


Imrlosbourg, 
Ics  for  2  M. 
r.     •'  It  is  a 
tlic  nnciont 
liard  liigh- 
larlcsbourp, 
a  •wondrous 
wii,  and  tlio 
»c  tIirongin;r 
ind  convent 
ing  forsonio 
iiigc.  Tlicro 
deep  cellar, 
'  and  nines. 
0  trout  aro 
fontagne  des 

0  year  1640  to 
mfion  by  tlie 
d  by  tlie  last 
ip,  who  stole 
luilding  for  a 
ar  ninong  the 
nquin  maiden 
loug  time,  in 
'Ut  one  night 
ft',  or  Iier  own 
.  M.  LeMoino, 
icquaintance, 

i  Alldo  and 
Monument, 

fought  the 
,000  inhab- 

lumber  of 
ing  of  great 
ome  Gothic 
lin.  In  the 
ds :  March- 
•t;  Spencer 
f  Canada," 
ti  and  other 
OS  injyarti- 
the  author 
^ataracouy^ 
\  Benmore, 
y  of  Mount 


r 


CAP  ROUGE. 


Iloute  CD.      281 


i 


Ilcrmnn,  which  was  la.  1  ou'  by  Major  Douglas,  tho  planner  of  GrponwooJ 
Cemetery,  is  in  this  vi:;inity  an<l  is  adorned  by  the  graceful  chapel  of  St. 
Michael.  Tho  people  of  Sillcry  have  recently  (1870)  erected  a  monument, 
Bustaining  a  marble  cross,  near  the  place  where  Father  Massd  was  buried, 
in  1G4G,  in  tho  nnciont  Church  of  St.  Michael  (which  hns  long  since  dis- 
appeared). The  old  Jesuit  Kcsidence  still  remains,  and  is  a  massive  build- 
ing of  stone. 

Tho  ChcTaHor  Nool  Brulart  do  Sillcry,  Knight  of  ^lalta,  arid  formerly  a  high  offl- 
ccr  at  tijc  court  of  Queen  Marie  do  Mt-clicis,  liaviug  reiiouiiecd  tho  world,  devoted  liis 
vast  revenues  to  religious  purposes.  Among  his  endf)wment8  was  tlie  foundation  of 
a  Christian  Algonquin  village  just  above  (iuebec,  wnieh  tho  .lesuits  named  Sillrrif, 
in  his  honor.  Here  the  Abcnu(iuis  of  Maino  learned  tho  elements  oi'  Catholicism, 
which  was  afterwards  unfoliled  to  them  in  their  villages  on  the  Keunebec,liy  Father 
Druilletcs.  This  wortliy  old  clergyman  followed  them  in  their  grand  hunts  about 
Moosehead  Lake  and  tlie  northern  forests,  "  with  toil  too  great  to  buy  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world,  but  very  small  as  a  price  for  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven."  From  the 
niission-houso  at  Sillery  departed  .logues,  Uri'-beiif,  Liilemant,  and  many  other  heroio 
missionaries  and  martyrs  of  the  primitive  Canadian  Church.  "It  was  the  s<'ene  of 
miracles  and  martyrdoms,  and  marvels  of  many  kindn,  and  the  centre  of  tho  mis- 
sionary efforts  among  tho  Indians.  Indeed,  few  events  of  the  picturcscjue  early  his- 
tory of  Quebec  left  it  untouched  ;  and  it  is  worthy  to  bo  .M'cn,  no  less  for  tho  wild 
beauty  of  the  spot  than  for  its  heroical  memories.  About  a  league  from  tho  city, 
where  the  irregular  wall  of  rock  on  which  Quebec  is  built  recedes  from  tho  river, 
and  a  grassy  space  stretches  between  the  tide  and  the  foot  of  the  woody  steep,  tho 
old  mission  and  the  Indian  village  once  stood  ;  and  to  this  day  there  yet  stands  tho 
stalwart  frame  of  the  first  Jesuit  Uesidence,  modernized,  of  course,  and  turned  to 
Hocular  uses,  but  firm  as  of  old,  and  good  for  a  century  to  come.  All  around  is  a 
world  of  lumber,  and  rafts  of  vast  extent  cover  the  face  of  the  waters  in  the  aniplo 
cove,  —  one  of  many  that  indent  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  careless  vllhigo 
straggles  along  tho  roadside  and  the  river's  margin  ;  huge  lumber-ships  are  loaciing 
for  Kurope  in  the  stream ;  a  town  shines  out  of  the  woods  on  the  opi)osite  shore  ; 
nothing  but  a  friendly  climate  is  needed  to  make  this  one  of  the  most  chanuiug 
scenes  tho  heart  could  imagine." 

Cap  Bouge  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  and  maybe  reached  by  the  road  which 
passes  through  Sillery.  It  is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  with  a  timber- 
trade  and  a  large  pottery;  and  is  connected  with  Quebec  by  scmi-tlaily 
stages.  The  cape  forms  the  \V.  end  of  the  great  plateau  of  Quebec,  v/hich, 
according  to  the  geologists,  Avas  formerly  an  island,  around  which  the  St. 
Lawrence  flowed  down  the  St.  Charles  valley.  It  is  thought  that  tho 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  will  throw  a  suspension-bridge  over  the  St.  Law- 
rence at  this  point,  being  forced  to  bring  its  trains  into  Quebec  by  the  com- 
petition of  the  North-Shore  Railway.  The  mansion  of  Redclyjj'e  is  on  the 
cape,  and  is  near  the  site  where  Jaques  Cartier  and  Roberval  passed  tho 
winters  of  1541  anJ  1542.  On  the  same  point  batteries  were  erected  by 
Montcalm  and  Murray. 

In  returning  from  Cap  Rouge  to  the  city,  it  may  be  well  to  turn  to  the 
1.  at  St.  Albans  and  gain  the  St.  Foy  road.  The  village  of  St.  Foy  is  5 
M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  many  pleasant  villas  and  mansions.  To  the 
N.  is  the  broad  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  in  .vhich  may  be 
seen  Ancienne  Lorette  (two  inns),  a  lumbering  village  of  3,  00  inhabitants, 
on  the  Gosford  Railway,  4^  M.  from  St.  Foy.    Beyond  thv'  Ohurch  of  St. 


1- 


282      Jtoute  GO. 


rOINT  LEVI. 


i 


Hi 


fr 
Hi; 


; 

i 
1 

i      :' 

t 

!l 

i 

Lez- 

Foy  is  the  *  monumental  column,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Bellona  (pre- 
sented by  Prince  Napoleon),  wliich  marks  the  site  of  the  fiercest  part  of 
the  Second  Battle  of  the  Plains,  in  which  De  Levis  defeated  Murray  (1760). 
The  monument  was  dedicated  witli  great  pomp  in  1854,  and  stands  over 
the  grave  of  manj'  hundreds  who  fell  in  the  Hght.  Passing  now  the 
handsome  Finlay  Asylum  and  several  villas,  the  suburb  of  St.  John  is 
entered. 

Point  Levi  (or  Levis)  is  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite 
Quebec,  with  which  it  is  coiiuected  by  ferry-boats  running  every  15  min- 
utes. It  has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  r/ith  a  large  and  increasing  trade, 
being  the  terminus  of  the  Quebec  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
of  the  (as  yet  uncompleted)  Levis  &  Kennebec  Railway.  On  the  lofty 
plateau  beyond  the  town  are  the  great  forts  which  have  been  erected  to 
defend  Quebec  from  a  second  bombardment  from  this  shore.  They  are 
three  in  number,  1  M.  apart,  solidly  built  of  masonry  and  earth,  with  large 
casemates  and  covered  ways;  and  are  to  be  armed  with  Moncrieff  guns  of 
the  heaviest  calibre.  It  is  said  that  these  forts  cost  $15,000,000, —  a 
palpable  exaggeration,  —  but  they  have  been  a  very  expensive  piece  of 
work,  and  are  said  to  be  more  nearly  like  Cherbourg,  the  best  of  modem 
European  fortifications,  than  any  others  in  America.  The  batteries  w^itK 
which  Gen.  Wolfe  destroyed  Quebec,  in  1759,  were  located  on  this  line  of 
heights. 

St.  Joseph  is  2  J  M.  from  Point  Levi,  and  transacts  a  large  business  in 
wood  and  timber.  South  Quebec  is  above  Point  Levi,  and  is  closely  con- 
nected with  it.  The  Liverpool  steamers  stop  here,  and  there  are  great 
shipments  of  lumber  from  the  harbor.  The  town  has  3,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  growing  rapidly. 

St,  Romuald  (or  New  Liverpool)  is  5  M.  f^om  Quebec,  and  adjoins  S. 
Quebec.  It  has  several  factories  and  mills  and  a  large  lumber-trade,  and 
is  connected  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily  steamers.  The  *  Church  of  St. 
Bomuald  is  "the  finest  on  the  Lower  3t.  Lawrence,"  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  paintings  (executed  in  1868-9  by  Lamprech  of  Munich). 

In  the  choir  are  the  Nativity,  Crucifixion,  and  Resurrection  of  Christ ;  in  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Marriage  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  Nazareth, 
Jesus  and  the  Doctors,  the  Death  of  St.  Joseph  ;  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin,  the 
Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple.  Above  are  eight  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Romuald,  from  his  Conver- 
Bion  to  his  Apotheosis.  There  are  16  medallions  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  Sts. 
Peter  and  Paul,  the  Four  EvangelistF,  and  five  doctors  of  the  Greek  Church  and 
five  of  the  Latin  Church.  The  altars  were  designed  by  Schneider  of  Munich,  and 
the  statues  were  carved  in  wood  by  Rudmiller  of  Munich. 

The  *  Ghaudi^re  Falls  are  4^  M.  beyond  St.  Romuald,  and  over  9  M. 
from  Quebec.  They  can  only  be  reached  by  walking  a  considerable  dis- 
tance through  the  bordering  fields.  "  The  deep  green  foliage  of  the  woods 
overhanging,  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  and  the  solitude  of  the  place,  espe- 
cially as  you  emerge  suddenly  from  the  forest  fastnesses  on  the  scene,  pro- 


'■ 


ENVIRONS  OF  CHARLOTTETOWN.    Route  70.      283 


llona  (prc- 
est  part  of 
•ray(1760), 
stands  over 
g  now  the 
5t.  John  is 

;e,  opposite 

ry  15  min- 

sing  trade, 

ailway  and 

1  the  lofty 

erected  to 

They  are 

with  large 

effgunsof 

)0,000,  — a 

e  piece  of 

of  modem 

teries  with 

his  line  of 

»usiness  in 
losely  con- 
are  great 
ihabitants, 

adjoins  S. 
trade,  and 
:ch  of  St. 
celebrated 


■ist;  in  the 
;,  Nazareth, 
Virgin,  the 
entation  in 
his  Conver- 
!enting  8ts. 
!hurch  and 
unich,  and 

over  9  M. 
irable  dis- 
the  woods 
ace,  espe- 
cene,  pro- 


♦ 


duce  a  strong  and  vivid  impression,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten."  Some 
visitors  even  prefer  this  fall  to  that  of  Montmorenci.  The  Chaudiere  de- 
scends from  Lake  Megantic,  near  the  frontier  of  Maine,  traversing  the 
Canadian  gold-fields.  Arnold's  hungry  and  heroic  army  followed  the 
course  of  this  river  from  its  source  to  its  mouth  in  their  arduous  winter- 
march,  in  1775.  The  Chaudifere  Falls  are  3  M.  from  its  confluence  with 
tiie  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  a  point  where  the  stream  is  compressed  into  a 
breadth  of  400  ft.  The  depth  of  the  plunge  is  about  135  ft.,  and  the 
waters  below  ore  continually  in  a  state  of  turbulent  tossing.  At  the  verge 
of  the  fall  the  stream  is  divided  by  large  rocks,  forming  three  channels,  of 
which  that  on  the  W.  is  the  largest.  The  view  from  the  E.  shore  is  the 
best.  '*  The  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of  the  overhanging  woods, 
the  rapid  motion,  the  elTulgent  brightness  and  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  combine  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects  highly 
attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor,  emerging  from  the  wood,  is  in- 
stantaneously surprised  by  the  delightful  scene." 

70.  Quebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne.— The  Cote  de  Beanprd. 

The  steamer  Montmorenci  runs  from  Quebec  to  St.  Anne  twice  a  week.  A  bet- 
ter route  is  that  by  land,  through  the  mediaeval  hamlets  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^. 
Three  days  should  be  devoted  to  the  trip,  —  one  to  go  and  one  to  return,  and  the 
other  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fer^ol.  Gentlemen  who  understand  French 
will  find  this  district  very  interesting  for  the  scene  of  a  pedestrian  tour.  The  inns 
at  St.  Anne  and  along  the  road  are  of  a  very  humble  character,  re^^embling  the  way- 
side auberges  of  Brittany  or  Normandy ;  but  the  people  are  courteous  and  well- 
disposed. 

Distances.  —  Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  7  M. ;  Ange  Oardien,  10; 
Chateau  Uicher,  15  ;  St.  Anne,  22  (St.  Joachim,  27  ;  St.  Fcr6ol,  30). 

The  Seigniory  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupre  contains  several  parishes  of  the  N.  shore, 
and  is  the  most  mountainous  part  of  the  Province.  It  was  granted  in  1636,  and  is 
at  present  an  appanage  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  No  rural  district  N.  of  Mexico 
is  more  quaint  and  mediaeval  than  the  Beaupre  Road,  with  its  narrow  and  ancient 
farms,  its  low  and  massive  stone  houses,  roadside  crosses  ami  chapels,  and  unpro- 
gressive  French  population.  But  few  districts  are  more  bea.^tiful  than  this,  with 
the  broad  St.  Lawrence  on  the  S.,  and  the  garden-like  Isle  of  Orleans  ;  the  towers 
of  Quebec  on  the  W.,  and  the  sombre  ridges  of  Cape  Tourmente  and  the  mountains 
of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fer^ol  in  advance.  "  In  the  inhabitant  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr6 
you  find  the  Norman  peasant  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.,  with  his  annals,  his  songs, 
and  his  superstitions."  (Adb6  Ferland.  ) 

"Though  all  the  while  we  had  grand  views  of  the  acijacent  country  far  up  and 
down  the  river,  and,  for  the  most  part,  when  we  turned  about,  of  Quebec,  in  the 
horizon  behind  uS;  — and  we  never  beheld  it  without  new  surprise  and  admiration, 
—  yet,  throughout  our  walk,  the  Great  River  of  Canada  on  our  right  hand  was  the 
main  feature  in  the  landscape,  and  this  expands  so  ropdly  below  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
and  creates  such  a  breadth  of  level  surface  above  its  waters  in  that  direction,  that, 
looking  down  the  river  as  we  approached  the  extremity  of  that  island,  the  St.  Law- 
rence seemed  to  be  opening  into  the  ocean,  though  we  were  still  about  325  M.  from 
ythut  can  be  called  its  mouth."  (Thoreau.) 

Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  see  page  276. 

Beyond  the  Falls  the  road  passes  on  over  far-viewing  and  breezy  hills, 
and  between  the  snug  estates  of  the  rural  farmers  with  their  great  bams 
and  exposed  cellars  {caves).    The  village  of  Ange  Gardien  is  guarded  at 


284     Haute  70. 


CHATEAU  RICHER. 


1!^ 


■f: 


i| 


n 


1^ 


it) 


I'll 


ii 


each  end  by  roadside  oratories,  and  lies  in  a  sheltered  glen  near  the  river. 
It  is  clustered  about  a  venerable  old  church,  in  ■which  are  paintings  of  the 
Annunciation  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  On  its  front  is  a  large  sun- 
dial. This  dreamy  old  parish  has  1,500  inhabitants,  and  dates  from  1678, 
when  it  was  founded  by  Bishop  Laval.  In  1759  it  was  overrun  and  occu- 
pied by  the  famous  British  corps  of  the  Louisbourg  Grenadiers. 

After  ascending  out  of  the  glen  of  Ange  Gardien,  the  road  crosses  ele- 
vated bluffs,  and  on  the  r.  are  rich  and  extensive  intei-vales,  cut  into  nar- 
row strips  by  walls.  They  extend  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  beyond 
which  are  the  white  villages  and  tin-clad  spires  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Ch&teau  Bioher  is  a  compact  and  busy  village  of  2,000  inhabitants, 
over  which,  on  a  bold  knoll,  is  the  spacious  parish-church.  The  views 
from  the  platform  of  this  edifice  are  very  pretty,  including  a  large  area  of 
the  parish,  the  village  of  St.  Pierre  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  distant 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond.  During  the  hunting  season  the  Chateau- 
Richer  marshes  are  much  frequented  by  Quebec  sportsmen,  who  shoot 
great  numbers  of  snipe,  ducks,  and  partridges.  The  upland  streams  afford 
good  trout-fishing. 

On  a  rocky  promontory  near  Chateau  Richer  was  the  site  of  the  ancient  Francis- 
can monastery.  This  massive  stone  building  was  erected  about  the  year  1696,  and 
was  occupied  by  a  community  of  peaceful  monks.  When  the  British  army  was 
fighting  the  French  near  the  Falls  of  Montmorcnci,  a  detachment  was  sent  here  to 
get  provisions ;  but  the  French  villagers,  under  the  influence  of  their  spiritual 
guide^■,  i».!a?ed  to  give  aid,  and  fortified  themselves  in  the  monastery.  The  reduc- 
tion ot  <[r:H  impromptu  fortress  gave  Gen.  Wolfe  considerable  trouble,  and  it  was 
onW  fi  .  V  filished  by  sending  against  it  the  valiant  Louisbourg  Grenadiers  and  a 
section  <-i  ..rtlUery.  The  monks  surrendered  after  their  walls  were  well  battered  by 
cannon-shot,  ;ind  were  dispossessed  by  the  troops.  Before  the  bombardment  the 
parish  priest  met  the  English  officers,  and  told  them  that  they  fought  for  their  king, 
and  he  should  be  aa  fearless  in  defending  his  people.  The  villagers  made  a  fierce 
sortie  from  the  convent  during  the  siege,  but  were  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  30  killed. 
The  site  of  the  monastery  is  now  occupied  by  the  school  of  the  Sisters  of  Le  Bon 
Pasteur,  and  part  of  its  walls  still  remain. 

The  little  roadside  avberge  called  the  Hotel  Campagne  is  about  1  M.  be- 
yond Chateau  Richer.  The  *SauU  a  la  Puce  is  about  2  M.  beyond  the 
village,  and  is  visited  by  leaving  the  road  where  it  crosses  the  Riviere  a  la 
Puce,  and  ascending  to  the  1.  bj'-  the  path.  The  stream  leaps  over  a  long 
cliff,  falling  into  the  shadows  of  a  bowery  glen,  and  has  been  likened  to 
the  Cauterskill  Falls. 

"This  fall  of  La  Puce,  the  least  remarkable  of  the  four  which  we  visited  in  this 
vicinity,  we  had  never  heard  of  until  we  came  to  Canada,  and  yet,  so  far  as  I  know, 
there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  in  New  England  to  be  compared  with  it.  Most  travel- 
lers in  Canada  would  not  hear  of  it,  though  they  might  go  so  near  as  to  hear  it." 
(Thoreau.)  There  are  other  pretty  cascades  farther  up  the  stream,  but  they  are 
difficult  of  access. 

"  The  lower  fall  is  112  ft.  in  height,  and  its  banks,  formed  by  elevated  acclivities, 
wooded  to  their  summits,  spread  around  a  solemn  gloom,  which  the  whiteness,  the 
movements,  and  the  noise  of  the  descending  waters  combine  to  make  interesting 

and  attractive The  environs  of  this  river  display,  in  miniature,  a  succession  of 

romantic  views.    The  river,  from  about  one  fourth  of  the  height  of  the  mountain, 


«t* 


LA  BONNE  ST.  ANNE.         Route  70.      285 


ir  the  river, 
tings  of  the 
a  large  sun- 
5  from  1678, 
n  and  occu- 

crosses  ele- 
ut  into  nar- 
ver,  beyond 
►rleans. 
inhabitants, 

Tlie  views 
irge  area  of 

the  distant 
le  Chateau- 
,  who  shoot 
earns  afford 


ient  Francis- 
ear  1695,  and 
sh  army  was 
i  sent  here  to 
leir  spiritual 
The  reduc- 
3,  and  it  was 
ladicrs  and  a 
I  battered  by 
ardment  the 
)r  their  king, 
Diadc  a  fierce 
8  of  30  killed, 
rs  of  Le  Bon 


ut  1  M.  be- 
beyond  the 
Rividre  a  la 
over  a  long 
likened  to 


sited  in  this 
iras  I  know, 
Most  travel- 
to  hear  it" 
iut  they  are 

i  acclivities, 
liteness,  the 
interesting 
accession  of 
3  mountain, 


a 


•t« 


I 
I) 


discloses  itself  to  the  contemplation  of  the  spectator,  and  delights  his  eye  with  varied 
masses  of  shining  foam,  which,  suddenly  issuing  from  a  deep  ravine  hollowed  out  by 
the  waters,  glide  down  the  almost  perpendicular  rock,  and  form  a  splendid  curtain, 
which  lof=es  itself  amid  the  foliage  of  surrounding  woods.  Such  is  the  scene  which 
the  fall  of  La  Puce  exhibits."    (IIeriot.) 

La  Bonne  St.  Anne  (otherwise  known  as  St.  Anne  du  Nord  and  St, 
Anne  de  Beaupr^)  is  7  M.  beyond  Cliateau  Richer,  and  is  built  on  a  level 
site  just  above  the  intervales.  It  has  about  1,200  inhabitants,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  the  thousands  of  pilgrims  who  frequent  its  shrine,  and  by  sup- 
plying brick  to  the  Quebec  market.  Immense  numbers  of  wild  fowl 
(especially  pigeons)  are  killed  here  every  year.  There  are  numerous  small 
inns  in  the  narrow  street,  all  of  which  are  crowded  during  the  season  of 
pilgrimage.  On  the  E.  of  the  village  is  the  ncAV  Church  of  St.  Anne,  a 
massive  and  beautiful  structure  of  gray  stone,  in  classic  architecture, 
which  will  probably  be  completed  in  1876.  The  old  building  of  the 
*  Church  of  St.  Anne  is  on  the  bank  just  above,  and  is  probably  the  most 
highly  venerated  shrine  in  Anglo-Saxon  America.  The  relics  of  St.  Anne 
are  guarded  in  a  crystal  globe,  and  are  exhibited  at  morning  mass,  when 
their  contemplation  is  said  to  have  effected  many  miraculous  cures.  Over 
the  richJy  adorned  high  altar  is  a  *  picture  of  St  Anne,  by  the  famous 
French  artist,  Le  Brim  (presented  by  Viceroy  Tracy);  and  the  side  altars 
have  paintings  (given  by  Bishop  Laval)  by  the  Franciscan  monk  Lefran- 
gois  (who  died  in  1685).  There  are  numerous  rude  ex-voto  paintings,  rep- 
resenting marvellous  deliverances  of  ships  in  peril,  through  the  aid  of  St. 
Anne ;  and  along  the  cornices  and  in  the  sacristy  are  great  slieaves  of 
crutches,  left  here  by  cripples  and  invalids  who  claimed  to  have  been 
healed  by  the  intercession  of  the  saint.  Within  the  church  is  the  tomb 
of  Philippe  R(5nd  de  Portneuf,  priest  of  St.  Joachim,  who  was  slain,  with 
several  of  his  people,  while  defending  his  parish  against  the  British  troops 
(1759). 

"  Above  all,  do  not  fail  to  make  your  pilgrimage  to  '•be  shrine  of  St.  Anno 

Here,  when  Aillebout  was  governor,  he  bejm"  vn^h  his  own  hands  the  pious  work,  and 
a  habitant  of  Beaupr^,  Louis  Guimont,  sorely  afflicted  with  rheumatism,  came  grin- 
ning with  pain  to  lay  three  stones  in  the  foundation,  in  honor  probably  of  St.  Anne, 
St.  Joachim,  and  their  daughter,  the  Virgin.  Instantly  lie  was  cured.  It  wiis  but 
the  beginning  of  a  long  course  of  miracles  continued  more  than  two  centuries,  and 
continuing  still.  Their  fame  spread  far  and  wide.  Tlie  devotion  to  St.  Anne  be- 
came a  distinguishing  feature  of  Canadian  Catholicity,  till  at  the  present  day  at 
Iciist  thirteen  parishes  bear  her  name Sometimes  the  whole  shore  wa.s  cov- 
ered with  the  wigwams  of  Indian  converts  who  had  paddled  their  birch  canoes  from 
the  farthest  wilds  of  Canada.  The  more  fervent  among  them  would  crawl  on  their 
knees  from  the  shore  to  the  altar.  And,  in  our  own  day ,  every  summer  a  far  greater 
concourse  of  pilgrims,  not  in  paint  and  leathers,  but  in  cloth  and  millinery,  and  not 
in  canoes,  but  in  steamboats,  bring  their  offerings  and  their  vows  to  the  '  Bonne  St. 
Anne.""    (Parkman.) 

According  to  the  traditions  of  the  Roman  Church,  St.  Anne  was  the  mother  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin, and  after  her  body  liad  reposed  for  some  years  in  tiie  cathedral 
at  Jerusalem,  it  was  sent  by  St.  James  to  St.  Lazare,  first  bishop  of  Marseilles,  lie, 
in  turn,  sent  it  to  St.  Auspice,  bishop  of  Apt,  who  placed  it  in  a  subterranean 
chapel  to  guard  it  from  profanation  in  the  approaching  heathen  inroads.  Barbarian 
hordes  afterwards  swept  over  Apt  and  obliterated  the  church.    700  years  later, 


1 


J;  ^f, 

in . 

I'i 

P' 
p  ■ 

l" 


' 


:. 


lX\h 


1 

i:      ^ 

•V 

Mi  i 

1 

;U,.. 

286      i?o?<<e  76?.     THE  FALLS  OF  ST.   ANNE. 

Charlemagne  visited  the  town,  and  while  attending  service  in  the  cathedral,  several 
marvellous  incidents  took  place,  and  the  forgotten  remains  of  St.  Anne  were  recov- 
ered from  the  grotto,  whence  a  perpetual  light  was  seen  and  a  delicious  fragrance 
emanated.  Ever  since  that  day  the  relics  of  the  saint  have  been  highly  venerated 
in  France.  The  rolonists  who  founded  Canada  brought  with  them  this  special  de- 
votion, and  erected  numerous  churches  in  her  honor,  the  chief  of  which  was  St. 
Anne  de  Beauprt^,  which  was  founded  in  1G58  by  Gov.  d'Aillcbout  on  the  estate  pre- 
sented by  Etienne  Lessart.  In  1668  the  cathedral-chapter  of  Carcasson  ?ent  to  this 
new  shrine  a  relic  of  St.  Anne  (a  bone  of  the  hand),  together  with  a  lamp  and  a 
reliquary  of  silver,  and  some  fine  paintings.  The  legend  holds  that  a  little  child 
was  thrice  favored  with  heavenly  visions,  on  the  site  of  the  church  ;  and  that,  on 
her  third  appearance,  the  Virgin  commanded  the  little  one  to  tell  the  people  that 
they  should  build  a  church  on  that  spot.  The  completion  of  the  building  was  sig- 
nalized by  a  remarkable  miracle.  The  vessels  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence  during 
the  French  domination,  always  fired  off  a  saluting  broadside  when  passing  this 
point,  in  recognition  of  their  delivery  from  the  perils  of  the  sea.  Bishop  Laval 
made  St.  Anne's  Day  a  feast  of  obligation  ;  and  rich  ex-volo  gifts  were  placed  in  the 
church  by  the  Intendant  Talon,  the  Marquis  de  Tracy ,  and  M.  d'Iberville, "  the  Cid  of 
New  France."  For  over  two  centuries  the  pilgrimages  have  been  almost  incessant, 
and  hundreds  of  miraculous  cures  have  been  attributed  to  La  Bonne  St.  Anne.  Be- 
tween June  and  October,  1874,  over  20,000  pilgrims  visited  the  church,  some  of  whom 
came  from  France  and  some  from  the  United  States.  An  extract  from  a  Lower- 
Canada  newspaper  of  October,  1874,  describes  one  of  the  latest  of  these  curious 
phenomena,  the  curing  of  a  woman  who  had  been  bedridden  for  4  years :  '*  Sho 
was  placed  in  the  Church  of  St.  Anne,  on  a  portable  bed,  at  6  o'clock  on  Wednesday 
morning.  After  low  mass  she  was  made  to  venerate  the  relics  of  St.  Anne.  A 
grand  mass  was  chanted  a  few  minutes  afterwards.  Toward  the  middle  of  the  divine 
office  the  patient  moved  a  little.  After  the  elevation  she  sat  up.  At  the  termina- 
tion of  the  mass  she  got  up  and  walked  and  made  the  circuit  of  the  church." 

The  Cote  de  Beaupre  and  the  site  of  St.  Anne  were  granted  by  the  Compagnie  des 
Cents  Associes,  in  163G.  to  the  Sieur  Chefl'ault  dc  la  Ilcgnardierc,  who,  however, 
made  but  little  progress  in  settling  this  broiid  domain,  and  finally  sold  it  to  Bishop 
Laval.  In  1661,  after  the  fall  of  Montreal,  this  district  was  ravaged  by  the  merciless 
Iroquois,  and  in  1682  St.  Anne  was  garrisoned  by  three  compani(!S  of  Frencli  regu- 
lars. Ou  the  23d  of  August,  1759,  St.  Anne  was  attacked  by  300  Highlanders  and 
Light  Infantry  and  a  company  of  Hangers,  under  command  of  Capt.  Montgomery. 
The  place  was  defended  by  200  villagers  and  Indians,  who  kept  up  so  hot  a  fire  from 
the  shelter  of  the  houses  that  the  assailants  were  forced  to  halt  and  wait  until  a 
flanking  movement  had  been  made  by  the  Rangers.  Many  of  the  Canadians  were 
slain  during  their  retreat,  and  all  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British  were  put  to 
death.  The  victors  then  burnt  the  village,  saving  only  the  ancient  church,  in 
which  they  made  their  quarters.  A  tradition  of  the  country  says  that  they  set  fire 
to  the  church  three  times,  but  it  was  delivered  by  St.  Anne.  The  following  day 
they  advanced  on  Chateau  Richer  and  Ange  Gardien,  burning  every  house  and  barn, 
and  cutting  down  the  fruit  trees  and  young  grain.  They  were  inces.santly  annoyed 
by  the  rifles  of  the  countrymen,  and  gave  no  quarter  to  their  prisoners. 

The  *  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  visited  by  passing  out  from  St.  Anne  on 
the  road  to  St.  Joachim,  as  far  as  the  inn,  *'  lilce  an  auberge  of  Brittany," 
at  the  crossing  of  the  St  Anne  River.  Thence  the  way  leads  up  the  I'iver- 
bank  through  dark  glens  for  3-4  M.,  and  the  visitor  is  conducted  by  a 
guide.  In  descending  from  the  plateau  to  the  plain  below,  the  river  forms 
seven  cascades  in  a  distance  of  about  a  league,  some  of  which  are  of  raro 
beauty,  and  have  been  preferred  even  to  the  Trenton  Falls,  iu  New  York. 
The  lower  fall  is  130  ft.  high. 

"  A  magnificent  spectacle  burst  upci  our  sight.  A  rapid  stream,  breaking  its  way 
through  the  dark  woods,  and  from  pool  to  pool  among  masses  of  jagged  rock,  sud- 
denly cleaves  for  itself  a  narrow  chasm,  over  which  you  may  spring  if  you  have  an 
iron  nerve,  and  then  falls,  broken  into  a  thousand  fantastic  forms  of  spray  along  the 


I 


1 


ST.  JOACHIM.' 


Route  70.      287 


[iGdral,  seTeral 
ae  wtre  recov- 
ious  fragrance 
;hly  venerated 
his  special  de- 
which  was  St. 
the  estate  pre- 
on  Fent  to  this 
a  lamp  and  a 
*j  a  little  child 

and  that,  on 
lie  people  that 
ildiug  was  sig- 
wrence  during 
3  passing  this 

Bishop  Laval 
;  placed  in  tho 
le,"theCidof 
lost  incessant, 
St.  Anne.  Be- 
,  some  of  whom 
from  a  Lowcr- 

thesc  curious 
I  years :  "  Sho 
on  Wednesday 
r  St.  Anne.  A 
leof  the  divine 
t  the  terniina- 
hurch." 

Compagnie  des 
who,  however, 
d  it  to  Bishop 
y  the  merciless 
f  French  regu- 
ghlanders  and 

Montgomery, 
hot  a  fire  from 
wait  until  a 
anadians  were 
ish  were  put  to 
nt  church,  in 
at  they  set  Are 

following  day 
lOUse and  barn, 
iantl^r  annoyed 
:8. 

St.  Anne  on 
)f  Brittany," 
up  the  I'iver- 
ducted  by  a 
e  river  forms 
1  aro  of  raro 
1  New  York. 


reaking  its  way 
;ged  rock,  sud- 
f  you  have  an 
ipray  along  the 


I 


steep  fac3  of  the  rock,  into  a  deep  gorge  of  horrid  darkness?.  I  do  not  know  the  vol- 
ume of  water  ;  I  forgot  to  guess  the  height,  —  it  may  be  two  hundred  feet.  Figures 
are  absurd  in  the  estimate  of  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  a  scene  like  this.  I  only 
know  that  the  whole  impression  of  the  scene  wa.s  one  of  the  most  intense  I  have  ever 
experienced.  The  disposition  of  the  mass  of  broken  waters  is  the  most  graceful  coa- 
ceivablc.  The  irresistible  might  of  the  rush  of  the  fall,  the  stupendous  upright 
masses  of  black  rock  that  form  the  cha.sm ;  the  heavy  fringe  of  dark  woods  all 
around;  the  utter  solitariness  and  gloom  of  the  3cen«»,  —  all  aid  to  impress  the 
imagination.    An  artist  might  prefer  this  spot  to  Niagara."    (Marshall.) 

"  Here  the  river,  1-200  ft.  wide,  comes  flowing  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed  out  of 
that  interesting  wilderness  which  stretches  toward  Hudson's  Bay  and  Davis's  Straits. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  on  the  Sagueuay,  was  about  100  M.  N.  of  where  we  stood.  Looking  on 
the  map,  I  find  that  the  first  country  on  the  N.  which  bears  a  name  is  that  part  of 
Rupert's  Land  called  East  Main.  This  river,  called  after  the  Holy  Anne,  flowing 
from  such  a  u'rection,  here  tumbles  over  a  precipice,  at  present  by  three  channels, 
how  far  down  I  do  not  know,  but  far  enough  for  all  our  purposes,  and  to  as  good  a 

distance  as  if  twice  a.s  far The  falling  water  seemed  to  Jar  the  very  rocks,  and 

the  noise  to  be  ever  increasing.  The  vista  was  through  a  narrow  and  deep  cleft  in 
the  mountain,  all  white  suds  at  the  bottom."  From  the  bed  of  the  stream  below 
"  rose  a  perpendicular  wall,  I  will  not  venture  to  say  how  far,  but  only  that  it  was 

the  highest  perpendicular  wall  of  bare  rock  that  I  ever  saw This  precipice  is 

not  sloped,  nor  is  the  material  soft  and  crumbling  slate  as  at  Montmorenci,  but  it 
rises  perfectly  perpendicular,  like  the  side  of  a  mountain  fortress,  and  is  cracked  into 
vast  cubical  ma:!ises  of  gray  and  black  rock  shining  with  moisture,  as  if  it  were  the 

ruin  of  an  ancient  wall  built  by  Titans Take  it  altogether,  it  was  a  most  wild 

and  rugged  and  stupendous  chasm,  so  deep  and  nanow  where  a  river  had  worn  it- 
self a  passage  through  a  mountain  of  rock,  and  all  around  was  the  comparatively 
untrodden  wilderness."    (Thorgac.) 

The  base  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  is  reached  by  a  road  running  up  the  val- 
ley for  3-5  M.  The  chief  peak  is  2,687  ft.  high,  but  tlie  view  thence  is 
intercepted  by  trees.  The  Valley  of  St.  Fereol  is  8  M.  from  St.  Anne,  and 
Is  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  It  contains  1,100  inhabitants,  and  in 
the  vicinity  are  several  lofty  and  picturesque  cascades.  St,  Tite  des  Caps 
is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  5  M.  from  the  river,  between  Cape  Tour- 
mente  and  the  St.  Fer<5ol  Mts.  The  trouting  in  these  glens  is  very  good, 
and  rare  sport  is  found  at  Laiie  St.  Joackim,  several  miles  beyond. 

St.  Joachim  is  5  M.  beyond  St.  Anne,  and  is  a  village  of  1,000  inhabi- 
tants, situated  near  the  river,  and  opposite  St.  Francois  d' Orleans,  2  M. 
beyond  this  point  is  the  Chateau  Bellevue  and  the  farm  of  the  Quebec 
Seminary.  The  summit  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  about  3  M.  from  the 
chateau,  and  is  sometimes  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  superb  *  view.  Tlie 
Seminarians  have  kept  a  cross  upon  this  peak  for  the  last  half-century ; 
and  in  1869,  44  Catholic  gentlemen,  led  by  the  Archbishop  of  Quebec, 
erected  a  new  i.ne,  25  ft.  high,  and  covered  with  tin. 

The  Chhteau  Bellevue  is  a  long  and  massive  building  of  limestone,  situated  near 
the  foot  of  Cape  Tourmente,  and  surrounded  by  noble  old  forests,  in  which  are 
shrines  of  St.  Joseph  and  the  Virgin.  Tho  chSlteau  is  furnished  with  reading  and 
billiard  rooms,  etc. ,  and  is  occupied  every  summer  by  about  40  priests  and  students 
from  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  The  neat  Chapel  of  St,  Louis  de  Gonzaga  (the  pro- 
tector of  youth)  is  S.  of  the  chiteau. 

Near  this  point  Jaques  Cartier  anchored  in  1535,  and  was  visited  by  the  Indians, 
who  brought  him  presents  of  melons  and  maize.  In  1623  Champlain  came  hither 
flrom  Quebec  and  founded  a  settlement,  wliose  traces  are  still  seen.  This  post  was 
destroyed  by  Sir  David  Kirke's  men  in  1628,  and  the  settlors  were  driven  away, 

St.  Joachim  was  occupied  in  August,  1759,  by  150  of  tho  78th  Highlanders,  who 


1 

■.i  1 : 

> 

■' 

1 

^ 


m. 


.1 


288      Haute  71.       THE  ISLE  OP  ORLEANS. 

had  just  mnrchod  do^\'n  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  through  St.  Pierre  and  St.  Fnmillo. 
They  were  engaged  in  the  streets  by  armed  villagers,  and  had  a  sharp  ekirnush 
hefore  the  Canadians  were  driven  into  the  forest,  after  which  thr  Scottish  soldiers 
fortified  themselves  in  the  priest's  house,  near  the  church. 

The  site  of  the  seminary  was  occupied  before  IGTU  by  Bishop  Laval,  who  founded 
here  a  rural  seminary  in  which  tl>e  youth  of  the  peasantry  were  instructed.  They 
Avere  well  grounded  in  the  doctrine  and  discipline  of  the  Church,  and  were  in- 
Eitructed  in  the  mechanic  arts  and  in  various  branches  of  farming.  This  was  the 
first  "  agricultural  college  "  in  America.  The  broad  seigniory  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^, 
which  lies  between  St.  Joachim  and  Beauport,  was  then  an  appanage  of  Bishop 
Laval,  and  was  more  populous  than  Quebec  itself.  "Above  the  vast  meadows  of 
the  parish  of  St.  Joachim,  that  here  border  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  rises  lilce  an 
island  a  low  flat  Iiill,  hedged  round  with  forests,  like  the  tonsured  head  of  a  monk. 
It  was  here  that  Laval  planted  his  school.  Across  the  meadows,  a  mile  or  more  dis- 
tant, towers  the  mountain  promontory  of  Cape  Tourniente.  You  may  climb  its 
woody  steeps,  and  from  the  top,  waist-dee  in  blueberry-bushes,  survey,  from 
Kamouraska  to  Quebec,  the  grand  Canadian  world  outstretched  below  ;  or  mount 
the  neighboring  heights  of  St.  Anne,  where,  athwart  the  gaunt  arms  of  ancient 
pines,  the  river  lies  shimmering  in  summer  haze,  the  cottages  of  the  habitants  aro 
strung  like  beads  of  a  rosary  along  the  meadows  of  Beaupr^,  the  shores  of  Orleans 
bask  in  warm  light,  and  far  on  the  horizon  the  rock  of  Quebec  rests  like  a  faint  gray 
cloud  ;  or  traverse  the  forest  till  the  roar  of  the  torrent  guides  you  to  the  rocky  sol- 
itude where  it  holds  its  savage  revels Game  on  the  river ;  trout  in  lakes, 

brooks,  and  pools ;  wild  fruits  and  flowers  on  the  meadows  and  mountains ;  a  thou- 
sand resources  of  honest  and  healthful  recreation  here  wait  the  student  emancipated 
from  books,  but  not  parted  lor  a  moment  from  the  pious  influence  that  hangs  about 
the  old  walls  c  bosomed  in  the  wood.s  of  St.  Joachim.  Around  on  plains  and  hills 
stand  the  dwell,  gs  of  a  peaceful  peasantry,  as  dilTcrent  from  the  restless  population 
of  the  neighboring  S  i:ates  as  the  denizens  of  some  Norman  or  Breton  village. ' '    (  Pakk- 

MAM.) 

7L  The  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Steam  ferry-boats  leave  Quebec  three  times  daily  for  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  The 
trip  gives  beautiful  views  of  the  city  and  its  marine  environs,  and  of  the  Mont- 
morenci  Falls  and  the  St.  Anne  Mts. 

The  island  is  traversed  by  two  roads.  The  N.  shore  road  passes  from  West  Point 
to  St.  Pierre,  in  5  M. ;  St.  Famille,  14  M. ,  and  St.  Fran^jois,  20  M.  The  S.  shore 
road  runs  from  West  Point  to  Patrick's  Hole,  in  6  M. ;  St.  Laurent,  7;^  ;  St.  John, 
13^  ;  St.  Francois,  21.  A  transverse  road  crosses  the  island  from  St.  Laurent  to  St. 
Pierre. 

The  Isle  of  Orleans  is  about  3  J  M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  70  square 
miles  (47,923  acres)  of  land,  being  20  M.  long  and  6i  M.  wide.  The  beau- 
tiful situation  of  the  island,  in  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  its  picturesque 
heights  and  umbrageous  groves,  its  quaint  little  hamlets  and  peaceful  and 
primitive  people,  vender  Orleans  one  of  the  most  interesting  districts  of 
the  Lower  Province,  and  justify  its  title  of  "the  Garden  of  Canada." 

The  island  was  called  Minigo  by  the  Indians,  a  large  tribe  of  whom  lived  hero 
and  carried  on  the  fisheries,  providing  also  a  place  of  retreat  for  the  mainland  tribes 
in  case  of  invasion.  In  1535  Cartier  explored  these  shores  and  the  hills  and  forests 
beyond,  being  warmly  welcomed  by  the  resident  Indians  and  feasted  with  fish, 
houey,  and  melons.  He  speaks  of  the  noble  forests,  and  adds:  "  Wo  found  there 
great  grape-vines,  such  as  we  had  not  seen  before  in  all  tho  world  ;  and  for  that  we 
named  it  the  Isle  of  Bacchus."  A  year  later  it  received  the  name  of  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  in  honor  of  De  Valois,  Duke  of  Orleans,  the  son  of  Fra.ncis  I.  of  France. 
The  popular  uame  was  Vlsle  des  Sorciers  (Wizards'  Island),  cither  on  account  of 
the  marvellous  skill  of  the  natives  in  foretelling  future  storms  and  nautical  events, 
or  else  because  the  superstitious  colonists  on  the  mainland  were  alarmed  at  the 
nightly  movements  of  lights  along  the  insular  shores,  and  attributed  to  demons  and 
wizards  the  dancing  fires  which  were  carried  by  the  Indians  in  visiting  their  fish- 
nets during  the  night-tides. 


ST.   PIERRE  D'ORLEANS.        Route  71.      289 


ind  St.  Fnmillo. 

sharp  ekirniish 

Scottish  soldiers 

al,  who  founded 
structed.  They 
h,  and  were  in- 
This  was  the 
Cotede  Beaupr6, 
anage  of  Bishop 
irast  meadows  of 
ere  rises  like  an 
head  of  a  monk, 
mile  or  more  dis- 
>u  may  climb  its 
es,  survey,  from 
)elow ;  or  mount 
arms  of  ancient 
the  habitants  arc 
shores  of  Orleans 
3  like  a  faint  gray 
1  to  the  rocky  sol- 
;  trout  in  lakes, 
tuntains ;  a  thou- 
dent  emancipated 
that  hangs  about 
1  plains  and  hills 
estless  population 
village."    (Pauk- 


I  of  Orleans.  The 
and  of  the  Mont- 

s  from  "West  Point 
M.     The  S.  shore 

ent,  1^  ;  St.  John, 
St.  Laurent  to  St. 


ntains  70  square 
ride.  The  beau- 
its  picturesque 
ind  peaceful  and 
ting  districts  of 
)f  Canada." 

f  whom  lived  hero 
he  mainland  tribes 
he  hills  and  forests 
feasted  with  fish, 
"  Wc  found  there 
\  ;  and  for  that  we 
lame  of  the  Tsle  of 
B,nci3  I.  of  France, 
her  on  account  of 
ad  nautical  events, 
re  alarmed  at  the 
ited  to  demons  and 
visiting  their  fish- 


The  island  was  granted  in  1G20  to  the  Sieur  deC^en  by  the  Duke  de  MontmorencI, 
Viceroy  of  Now  France.  In  lt>7r>  this  district  was  formed  into  the  Earldom  of  St. 
Liinrent,  and  was  conferred  on  M.  Hertlielot,  wlio  assumed  the  title  of  tlio  Ooiint  of 
St.  Lawiriicc.  In  16.")1  the  N.  part  was  occupied  by  G(JO  Chrl.stian  lliiroii.s,  wliohad 
taken  refuge  under  the  walls  of  (Quebec  from  the  exterminating  Iroquois.  In  1056 
tlie  Iroquois  demanded  that  they  should  come  and  dwell  in  their  country,  and  upon 
their  refusal  fell  upon  the  Ilurons  with  a  force  of  300  warriors,  devastated  the  island, 
and  killed  72  of  the  unfortunate  Christians.  Two  tribes  were  compelled  soon  after 
to  surrender  and  be  led  as  captives  into  the  Iroquois  country,  wliile  the  Tribe  of  the 
Cord  left  the  island  and  settled  at  Lorette.  The  Isle  was  overrun  by  Iroquois  in 
liilil,  and  in  an  action  with  them  at  Ilivierc  Maheu,  De  Lauzon,  Seneschal  of  New 
France,  and  all  his  guards  were  killed,  preferring  to  die  fighting  than  to  surrender 
and  be  tortured.  The  great  cross  of  Argentenay  was  carried  away  and  raised  in  tri- 
umph at  the  Iroquois  village  on  Lake  Onondaga  (New  York). 

For  nearly  a  century  the  Isle  enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  until  it  had  2,000  in- 
habitants with  5,000  cattle  and  rich  and  nroductive  farms.  Then  came  the  advance 
of  Wolfe's  fleet ;  the  inhabitants  all  flea  to  Charlesbourg ;  the  unavailing  French 
troops  and  artillery  left  these  shores ;  Wolfe's  troops  landed  at  St.  Laurent,  and 
erected  camps,  forts,  and  hospitals  on  the  S  E.  point ;  and  soon  afterward  tlie  Brit- 
ish forces  systematically  ravaged  the  deserted  country,  burning  nearly  every  house 
on  the  Isle,  and  destroying  the  orchards. 

The  Isle  is  now  divided  into  two  seigniories,  or  lordships,  whose  revenues  and 
titles  are  vested  in  ancient  French  families  of  Quebec.  The  soil  is  rich  and  di- 
versified, and  its  pretty  vistas  ju-stifyCharlevox's  sketch  (of  1720):  "  We  took  a 
stroll  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  whose  cultivated  fields  extend  around  like  a  broad  am- 
phitheatre, and  gracefully  end  the  view  on  every  side.  I  have  found  tliis  country 
beautiful,  the  soil  good,  and  the  inhabitants  very  mucli  at  their  ease."  The  agri- 
cultirai  interest  is  now  declining,  owing  to  the  antique  and  unprogressivc  ideas  of 
tlie  farmers,  who  confine  themselves  to  small  areas  and  neglect  alternation  of  crops. 
The  farms  are  celebrated  for  their  excellent  potatot's,  plums,  apples,  and  for  a  rare 
and  delicious  variety  of  small  cheeses.  The  people  are  temperate,  generous,  and 
hospitable,  and,  by  reason  of  their  insular  position,  still  preserve  the  primitive 
Nornian  customs  of  the  early  settlers  under  Champlain  and  Frontena?.  The  Isle 
and  the  adjacent  shore  of  Beanprehave  been  called  the  nursery  of  Canada,  so  many 
have  been  the  emigrants  from  these  swarming  hives  who  have  settled  in  other  parts 
of  the  Provinces. 

St.  Pierre  is  the  village  nearest  to  Quebec  (9  M.),  and  is  reached  by 
ferry-steamers,  wiiich  also  run  to  Beaulieu.  It  has  about  700  inhabitants, 
and  is  beautifully  situated  nearly  opposite  the  Montniorenci  Falls  and 
Ange  Gardien.  The  first  chapel  was  erected  here  in  1651  by  P^re  Lale- 
mant,  and  was  used  by  the  Hurons  and  French  in  common.  In  1769  the 
present  church  of  St.  Pierre  was  erected.  On  this  shore,  in  1825,  were 
built  the  colossal  timber-ships,  the  Columbus,  3,700  tons,  and  the  Baron 
Renfrew,  3,000  tons,  the  largest  vessels  that  the  world  had  seen  up  to  that 
time. 

The  convent  of  St.  Famille  was  founded  in  1685,  bj"-  the  Sisters  of  the 
Congregation,  and  since  that  time  the  good  nuns  have  educated  tlie  girls 
of  the  village,  having  generally  about  70  in  the  institution.  The  nunnery 
is  seen  near  the  church,  and  was  built  in  1699,  having  received  additions 
from  time  to  time  as  the  village  increased.  Its  celhir  is  divided  into  nar- 
row and  contracted  cells,  whose  design  has  been  long  forgotten.  The 
woodwork  of  the  convent  was  burned  by  Wolfe's  foragers  in  1759,  but  was 
restored  in  1761,  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  The  first  church  of  St. 
Famille  was  built  in  1671,  and  the  present  church  dates  from  1745.  The 
13  s 


290      Route  71.     ST.  LAURENT  D'ORLEANS. 


a 


■: 


village  is  nearly  opposite  Chateau  Richer,  and  commands  fine  views  of  the 
Laurontian  Mis. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Frangois  includes  the  domain  of  the  ancient  fief  of 
Argentenay,  and  was  formed  in  1678.  In  1683  the  first  church  was  built, 
and  the  present  church  dates  from  1736,  and  was  plundered  by  Wolfe's 
troops  in  1759.  The  view  from  the  church  is  vei*y  beautiful,  and  includes 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  horizon,  the  white  villages  of  the  S.  coast,  and  the 
isles  of  Madame,  Grosse,  and  Reaux.  On  the  N.  shore,  at  the  end  of  the 
island,  are  the  broad  meadows  of  Argentenay,  where  wild-fowl  and  other 
game  are  sought  by  the  sportsmen  of  Quebec.  This  district  looks  across 
the  N.  Channel  upon  the  dark  and  imposing  ridges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  and 
the  peaks  of  St.  Fer<fol;  and  the  viev/  from  the  church  is  yet  more  exten- 
sive and  beautiful. 

The  church  of  St.  John  was  built  in  1735,  near  the  site  of  a  chapel 
dating  from  1675,  and  contemporary  with  the  hamlet.  This  parish  is 
famous  for  the  number  of  skilful  river-pilots  which  it  has  furnished.  It 
has  about  1,300  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most  important  parish  on  the  island. 
It  is  nearly  opposite  the  S.  shore  village  of  St.  Michel  (see  page  254). 

St.  Laurent  is  7  M.  from  St.  Jean,  upon  the  well-settled  royal  road. 
The  parish  is  entered  after  crossing  the  Riviere  Maheu,  where  the  Seneschal 
of  New  France  fell  in  battle.  The  Church  of  St.  Laurent  is  a  stately 
edifice  of  cut  stone  with  a  shining  tin  roof,  and  is  113  ft.  in  length.  It  re- 
placed chuiches  of  1675  and  1697,  and  was  consecrated  in  1861.  The 
Eoute  des  Pretres  runs  N.  from  St.  Laurent  to  St.  Pierre,  and  was  so  named 
60  years  ago,  when  this  church  had  a  piece  of  St.  Paul's  arm-bone,  which 
•was  taken  away  to  St.  Pierre,  and  thence  was  stolen  at  night  by  the  St. 
Laurent  people.  After  long  controversy,  the  Bishop  of  Quebec  ordered 
that  each  church  should  restore  to  the  other  its  own  relics,  which  was 
done  along  this  road  by  large  processions,  the  relics  being  exchanged  at 
the  great  black  cross  midway  on  the  road.  1^  M.  W.  of  St.  Laurent  is 
the  celebrated  haven  called  Trou  St.  Patrice  (since  1689),  or  Patrick's 
Hole,  where  vessels  seek  shelter  in  a  storm,  or  outward-bound  ships  await 
orders  to  sail.  The  river  is  1^  M.  wide  here,  and  there  are  10  - 12  fathoms 
of  water  in  the  cove.  2  M.  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Caverne  de  Bontemps, 
a  grotto  about  20  ft.  deep  cut  in  the  solid  rock  near  the  level  of  the  river. 


m 


QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY.    Jioute  72.      291 


e  views  of  the 

Ticient  fief  of 
rch  was  built, 
3d  by  Wolfe's 
,  find  includes 
coast,  and  the 
he  end  of  the 
)wl  and  other 
t  looks  across 
\nne  Mts.  and 
;t  more  exten- 

;e  of  a  chapel 
rhis  parish  is 
furnished.  It 
ion  the  island. 
atre  254). 
id  royal  road. 
}  the  Seneschal 
it  is  a  stately 
length.  It  re- 
in 1861.     The 

was  so  named 
m-bone,  which 
f;ht  by  the  St. 
luebec  ordered 
ics,  which  was 

exchanged  at 
St.  Laurent  is 
),  or  Patrick's 
id  ships  await 
10  - 12  fathoms 
le  de  Bonteinps, 
si  of  the  river. 


72.    Quebec  to  Cacouna  and  the  Saguenay  River.— The 
North  Shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Steam  Navigation  Conipiuiy  has  several  first-class  steamers  ply- 
ing on  the  lower  reaches  of  the  river.  The  time-table  below  ih  that  of  1874  ;  but  if 
any  changes  liave  been  made,  they  may  be  seen  in  the  Quebec  newspapers,  or  at  the 
ticket-office,  opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel. 

At  1  A.M.,  on  Tuesday  and  Friday,  the  Sas;uenay  leaves  Quebec  for  St.  Paul'.i 
Bay,  Les  Kboulemcnts,  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup  (<'acouna),  radousac,  Ila  Ila 
Bay,  and  ChicoutimI ;  reaching  Quebec  again  on  Thursday  and  Monday  mornings. 

On  Wednesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  the  Union  or  the  St.  Lnvrrnre.  leaves 
Quebec  at  7  A.M.,  for  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup,  Tadousac,  and  Ila  lla  Bay; 
reaching  Quebec  the  second  morning  after. 

On  Saturday  the  St.  Laivrence  leaves  Quebec,  at  noon,  for  Murray  Bay,  Riviere 
du  Loup,  and  Rimouski ;  reaching  Quebec  again  on  Tuesday  morning. 

Distances.  —  Quebec  to  St.  Laurent,  12  M. ;  St.  John  (Orleans),  17;  Isle  Ma- 
dame, 23;  Cape  Tourmente,  28 ;  St.  Fran«;;ois  Xavier,  45;  St.  Paul's  Bay,  55;  Lea 
l^:boulements,  6« ;  Murray  Bay,  82  ;  Riviere  Du  I^oop,  112  (Cacouna,  118) ;  Tadjusac, 
134  (Chicoutimi,  235). 

The  S.  shore  is  described  in  Route  67  (pages  246-255),  and  the  Isle  of 
Orleans  in  Route  71.  As  the  steamer  moves  down  across  the  Basin-  of 
Quebec,  beautiful  *  views  are  afforded  on  all  sides,  including  a  fascinating 
retrospect  of  the  lofty  fortress. 

"  Behind  us  lay  the  city,  with  its  tinned  rooft  glittering  in  the  morning  sunshine, 
and  its  citadel-rock  towering  over  the  river;  on  the  southern  shore.  Point  Ix)vi, 
picturesquely  climbing  the  steep  bank,  embowered  in  dark  trees  ;  then  the  wooded 
bluffs  with  their  long  levels  of  farm-land  behind  them,  and  the  scattered  cottages  of 
the  habitants,  while  northward  the  shore  ro«e  with  a  gradual,  undulating  sweep, 
glittering,  far  inland,  with  houses,  and  gardens,  and  crowding  villages,  until  it 
reached  the  dark  stormy  line  of  the  Laurentian  Mts.  in  the  N.  E  ....  The  sky,  the^ 
air,  the  colors  of  the  landscape,  were  from  Norway  ;  Quebec  and  the  surrounding 
villages  suggested  Normandy,  —  except  the  tin  roofs  and  spires,  which  were  Russian, 
rather;  while  here  and  there,  though  rarely,  were  the  marks  of  English  of  cupancy. 
The  age,  the  order,  the  apparent  stability  and  immobility  of  society,  as  illustrated 
by  external  things,  belonged  decidedly  to  Europe.  This  part  of  America  is  but  70 
or  80  years  older  than  New  England,  yet  there  seems  to  be  a  difference  of  500  years." 
(Bayard  Taylor.) 

After  running  for  17  M.  between  the  populous  shores  and  bright  villages 
of  Orleans  and  Bellechasse  (see  page  254),  the  steamer  turns  to  the  N.  E., 
when  off  St.  John,  and  goes  toward  Cape  Tourmente,  passing  between  Isle 
Madame  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  Then  St.  Francois  is  passed,  on  the  1., 
and  the  meadows  of  Argentenay  are  seen,  over  which  is  St.  Joachim.  As 
the  N.  Channel  is  opened,  a  distant  view  of  St.  Anne  de  Beauprd  may  be 
obtained,  under  the  frowning  St.  Anne  Mts.  Cape  Tourmente  (see  page 
287)  is  now  passed,  beyond  which  are  the  great  Laurentian  peaks  of  Cape 
Rouge  and  Cape  Gribaune,  over  2,000  ft.  high,  and  impinging  so  closely  on 
the  river  that  neither  road  nor  houses  can  be  built.  These  mountains  are 
of  granite,  and  are  partially  wooded.  3  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  a 
lighthouse,  176  ft.  above  the  water,  on  the  rugged  slope  of  Cape  Rouge. 
A  few  miles  to  the  E.  is  the  Sault  au  Cochon^  under  the  crest  of  a  mountain 
2,370  ft.  high. 


r 

1 . ' 

{"' 

:  -i 


[It  ' 


1     ^ 


:'{ 


m 


p'ii;; 


292      72o«/c  7i?. 


ST.  PAUL'S  r>AY. 


Ilonrlicr  nssortoil,  5n  lOCii,  that  tho  shore  hotworn  Cape  Tonrmonto  ntul  TadnuKflc 
was  iiniuhahitalile,  "  lieiiif;  too  lofty,  ami  all  rocky  ami  esrarfK-d.''  Hut  the  French 
f'anadiiuis,  lianly  and  tireless,  and  lovinj:  the  St.  Lawrence  more  than  the  Xornianii 
love  the  Seine,  liave  foimded  nnmernus  hamlets  on  the  roel<>i  of  tliis  iron  siiore.  Tho 
coast  hetiveen  St.  .(oachini  and  St.  Kranc^ois  Xavier  is  as  yet  iinocenj)ied. 

"  Wo  ran  aloiiK  the  l)ases  of  headlands,  1,(;(K)  to  l,')(i(l  ft.  in  hei;?ht,  wild  and  dark 
with  loxverin}:;  clouds,  pray  with  rain,  or  touched  with  a  polden  transjiarency  l)y  tho 
Funshinc,  —  alternating  helt.s  of  atmospheric  elTect,  which  greatly  increased  tiieir 
lieauty.  Indeed,  all  of  us  who  saw  the?  Lower  St.  Lawrence  for  the  first  time  were 
surprised  by  the  imposing  character  of  its  scenery."'    (U.ward  Taylor.) 

Beyond  Ahattis  and  the  liiph  clifis  of  Cape  Maillard  the  fstcamer  passes 
the  populous  vilhif^c  of  St.  Fninqois  Xavier,  extending  up  the  valley  of  the 
Bouchard  River.  On  the  S.  n  long  line  of  picturesque  islets  is  passed 
(see  page  254).  Beyond  Cape  Labale  the  steamer  lies  to  off  St.  Paul's 
Bay,  whose  unique  and  beaul'ful  scenery  is  seen  from  the  deck. 

St.  Paul's  Bay  (two  small  \nu9)  is  a  parish  of  4,000  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated amid  the  grandest  scenery  of  the  N.  shore.  The  people  are  all  French, 
.ind  the  village  is  clustered  about  the  church  and  convent  near  the  CioufTro 
River.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  iron,  plumbago,  limestone,  garnet-rock, 
and  curious  ealine  and  sulphurous  springs.  It  is  claimed  that  "no  parisli 
oflers  so  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  poet,  or  the  naturalist."  The 
wild  and  turbulent  streams  that  sweep  down  the  valley  have  carried  away 
nil  the  bridges  which  have  been  erected  by  the  people.  Passengers  who 
wish  to  land  at  thi.s  po'nt  are  transferred  from  the  steamer  to  a  large  sail- 
boat. 

The  vistas  up  the  valleys  of  the  Oouffro  and  the  Moulin  Rivera  show  distant 
raiifie.s  of  picturesque  blue  mountains,  with  groups  of  conical  Alpine  peaks.  In  171)1 
it  is  claimed  tliat  the  shores  of  the  bay  were  shaken  by  earthquakes  for  many  days, 
after  which  one  of  the  peaks  to  the  N.  belched  forth  great  volumes  of  smoke  and 
pissed  into  the  volcanic  state,  omitting  columns  of  flame  through  several  days.  The 
peaks  are  bare  and  white,  with  sharp  precipices  near  the  summit.  The  valley  of 
the  Gouffrc  has  lieen  likened  to  tho  Vale  of  ('Iwyd,  in  Wales,  and  is  traversed  by  a 
fair  road  along  tlie  r.  bank  of  the  rapid  river.  10  -  12  >L  from  the  bay  are  the  ex- 
tensive deposits  of  magnetic  iron-ore  which  were  explored  by  order  of  Tntendnnt 
Talon,  a  century  and  a  half  ago.  In  the  upper  part  of  tho  valley,  K  M.  from  St 
Paul's  Hay,  is  St.  Urlxan,  a  French  Catholic  village  of  about  1,000  inhabitants.  ]Jy 
this  route  the  tri-weekly  Royal  mail-stages  cross  to  Chicoutimi,  on  the  upper  Sagne"- 
nay  (see  page  300).  St.  Plactde  (Clairvaux)  is  also  back  of  St.  Paul's  Bay,  and  has 
400  inhabitants. 

"  In  all  the  miles  of  country  T  had  passed  over,  I  had  fieen  nothing  to  equal  tho 
exquisite  beauty  of  the  Vale  of  Baie  St.  Paul.  From  the  hill  on  which  we  stood, 
the  whole  valley,  of  many  miles  in  extent,  was  visible.  It  was  perfectly  level,  ami 
covered  from  end  to  end  with  little  hamlets,  and  several  churches,  with  here  and 

there  a  few  small  patches  of  forest Like  the  Happy  Valley  of  Rassola."!,  it  was 

surrounded  by  the  most  wild  and  rugged  mountains,  which  ro.'^c  in  endless  succes- 
sion one  behind  the  other,  stretching  away  in  the  distance,  till  they  resembled  a 
faint  blue  wave  in  the  horizon."  (Ballantyne.i 

"  Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  the  landscape  which  may  be  viewed  from 
the  crest  of  Cap  au  Corbeau.  Have  you  courage  to  clamber  up  the  long  slopes  of 
Cap  au  Corbeau ;  to  see  the  white-.sailed  schooners  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  ;  to 
comprehend  the  thousand  divers  objects  at  your  feet ;  the  sinuous  cour-i^e  of  tho 
Mar^  and  of  the  serpentine  Gouffre ;  on  the  S.  the  old  mansions  and  rich  pas- 
tures ;  to  see  the  church  and  convent  and  the  village,  the  Cap  X  la  Rey,  tho  Lottcr.i 
of  the  bay  ;  and,  farther  away,  the  shores  of  St.  Antoine  Perou,  St.  Jerome,  itU 
John,  St.  Joseph,  and  St.  Flavien  ? "   (Trudelle.) 

The  Bay  was  settled  early  iu  the  17th  century,  and  has  always  been  noted  for  its 


1 


1 


ISLE  AUX  C0UDRE3. 


nontc  72.      293 


il  Tndnusnc 
tlic  French 
K'  Xnrninns 
sliore.   The 

cl  nnd  (lark 
ciiry  by  the 
•ciisfd  tlioir 
t  time  were 


ler  passes 

illcy  of  tlie 

is  passed 

St.  Paul's 

ants,  situ- 
ill  French, 
le  CiouflVo 
rtiet-rock, 
'  no  parish 
ist."  The 
Tied  away 
liters  who 
liirge  sail- 


low  distant 
ks.  In  1791 
many  days, 
'  smoke  and 

I  days.  Th(« 
lie  valley  of 
versed  by  a 

are  the  ex- 
'  Intendant 
M.  from  St 
)itants.  IJy 
pper  Sagiie- 
ly,  and  has 

o  equal  the 

II  we  stood, 
y  level,  anil 
Il  here  and 
=elas,  it  was 
Hess  succes- 
esembled  a 

'iewed  from 
B  slopes  of 
;he  bay  ;  to 
iur.«e  of  the 
i  rich  pas- 
tlic  lottoni 
lerome,  St. 

loted  for  its 


oarthiiuakes  and  volranlc  disturbances.  In  October,  1870,  it  felt  such  a  severe 
shdck  tiiat  nearly  every  house  in  the  valley  was  damaged.  In  17iV.t  the  viJIa^je  was 
de.'<tio\ed  by  ( Jorham's' New-England  Hangers,  after  the  inhabitants  had  defended 
it  for  two  hours. 

"  Above  the  Oulph  I  have  just  mentioned  is  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul,  where  the  Ilab- 
itations  begin  on  the  North  Side  ;  and  there  are  some  U'oods  of  I'ine-Trees,  wiiieh 
are  much  valued;  Hero  are  also  some  red  I'ines  of  great  Heauty.  Messrs.  of  tlio 
Seminary  of  Quebec  are  LonU  of  tins  Hay.  Six  I/'agues  higher,  then-  is  a  very 
high  I'romontory,  which  terminates  a  Chain  of  Mountains,  wliich  extend  above  4(ib 
Leagues  to  the  VVest ;  It  is  called  Cape  Tnurmcnte,  probably  because  he  that  g.ive  it 
tlii'<  Name,  suffered  here  by  a  (Sust  of  Wind.'"   (Ciiarf-k.voix.) 

The  \V.  promontory  of  St.  I'aul's  Hay  is  Cape  Labaie ;  tliat  on  the  E.,  opposite 
the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  is  Cape  Corbmii.  "  This  cape  ha.s  something  of  the  majestic 
and  of  the  mournful.  At  a  little  distance  it  might  be  taken  for  one  of  the  immense 
tombs  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  Egyptian  deserts  by  the  vanity  of  some  puny 
mortal.  A  cloud  of  birds,  children  of  storm,  wheel  continually  about  its  fir- 
crowned  brow,  and  seem,  by  their  sinister  croaking,  to  intone  the  funeral  of  some 
dying  man." 

Hetwecn  St.  Paul's  Bay  and  the  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  the  whirlpool 
called  Le  Guvffre,  where  the  water  suddenly  attains  a  depth  of  30  fath- 
oms, and  at  ebb-tide  the  outer  currents  are  repulsed  from  Coudres  to  Cor- 
beau  in  wide  swirling  eddies.  It  is  said  that  before  the  Gouffre  began  to 
fill  with  sand  schooners  which  were  caught  in  these  eddies  described  a 
series  of  spiral  curves,  the  last  of  which  landed  them  on  the  rocks.  It 
was  the  most  dreaded  point  on  this  shore,  and  many  lives  were  lost  here; 
but  its  navigation  is  now  safe  and  easy. 

The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  5i  M.  long  and  2i  M.  wide,  and  is  a  charm- 
ing remnant  of  primitive  Norman  life.  It  has  about  500  inhabitants,  en- 
gaged in  farming,  and  more  purely  mediaeval  French  than  any  other 
people  in  Canada.  The  houses  are  mostly  along  the  lines  of  tiie  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  shores;  and  the  Church  of  St.  Louis  is  on  the  S.  W.  point. 
The  island  is  still  owned  by  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  to  which  it  was 
granted  in  1687.  Large  numbers  of  porpoises  are  caught  between  this 
point  and  the  Riviere  Ouelle,  on  the  S.  shore.  Bayard  Taylor  says: 
"  The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  a  beautiful  pastoral  mosaic  in  the  pale  emerald 
setting  of  the  river." 

Off  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  between  that  point  and  Riviere  Ouelle,  great  num- 
bers of  white  whales  are  caught,  in  fish-pounds  made  for  the  purpose.  These  fish 
(often  taken  for  porpoises)  live  in  the  Lower  St.  I^awrence  from  April  to  October, 
when  they  migrate  to  the  Gulf  and  the  .Vrctic  Ocean.  They  are  from  14  to  22  ft. 
in  length,  and  yield  100-120  gallons  of  fine  oil,  which  is  much  used  for  lighthouse 
purposes,  because  it  does  not  freeze  in  winter.  A  valuable  leather  is  made  from 
their  skins. 

When  Cartier  was  advancing  up  the  St.  Lav  ?  once  in  1535,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Quebec  Indians  whom  he  had  abducted  from  Gasp,',  he  landed  on  this  island, 
and,  marvelling  at  the  numerous  hazel-trees  upon  the  hills,  named  it  Vhle  aux 
Coudres  (Hazel-tree  Island).  This  point  he  made  the  division  between  the  country 
of  Saguenay  and  that  of  Canada.  "  In  1663  an  Karthquak"  rooted  up  a  Mountain, 
and  threw  it  upon  the  Isle  of  Coudres,  which  was  made  one  half  larger  than  before, 
and  in  the  Place  of  the  Mountain  there  appeared  a  Gulf,  whiuli  it  is  not  safe  to 
approach."' 

The  island  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants  in  the  summer  of  1759,  when  great 
British  fleets  were  anchored  off  the  shores,  ])ut  several  boats'  crews  were  driven 
from  the  strand  by  rangers.    Three  British  officers  landed  on  the  isle,  carrying  a  flag 


:  'I 


ilil 


il 


294     Jloitte  72. 


MURUAY  BAY. 


which  they  were  ahoiit  to  raise  on  the  chief  eminence  before  the  fleet ;  but  they 
wen>  cut  off  by  a  small  party  of  Canadian!*,  and  were  led  prisoners  to  Quebec,  Ad- 
miral Durell  first  reached  the  island,  with  10  frigates,  and  captured  3  French  ves- 
sels l)eariiig  1,800  barrels  of  powder. 

The  steamer  runs  S.  E.  for  scvcrnl  miles  In  the  narrow  channel  between 
the  Isle  aux  Couflrcs  and  the  mountains  of  the  N.  Shore.  At  11  M.  from 
St.  Paul's  Hay  it  rounds  in  at  the  pier  (920  ft.  long)  of  the  parish  of  Les 
Eboulements,  a  farming  district  of  2.400  inhabitants.  "High  on  the 
crest  of  the  Laurentides,  old  as  the  world,  the  tourist  sees  on  the  N.,  on 
landing  at  the  Eboulements  pier,  the  handsome  parish-church."  The  situa- 
tion of  this  village  is  one  of  the  most  quaint  and  charmin  ,  on  the  river, 
and  overlooks  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  leagues.  The  wiiite  houses  are 
grouped  snugly  about  the  tall  X(jtrc  Dame  Church,  above  which  the  dark 
peak  of  Mt.  Eboulements  rises  to  the  height  of  2,547  ft. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Les  Cboulements  are  visible  the  tracks  of  the  great  land-slidea 
of  lOfB,  in  that  season  when  so  many  marvellous  phenomena  were  seen  in  Canada. 
The  St.  liawrence  ran  "  white  a.s  milk,"  as  far  down  r.s  Tadonsac  ;  ranges  of  hills  were 
thrown  down  Into  the  river,  or  were  .swallowed  up  in  the  plains  ;  earthquakes  shat- 
tered the  houses  and  shook  theti-ees  until  the  Indians  said  that  the  forests  were 
drunk  ;  vast  fissures  opened  in  tlie  ground  ;  and  tlie  courses  of  streams  were  changed. 
Meteors,  fiery-winged  serpents,  and  gliastly  8p<>ctres  were  seen  in  the  air;  roarings 
and  my8t«riou8  voices  sounded  on  every  side ;  and  the  confessionals  of  all  the 
churchcifi  were  crowded  with  penitents,  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  the  huge  mass  of  Mt.  Eboulements,  passing  the 
rugged  spurs  called  Goose  Cape  and  Cape  Corneille.  On  the  E.  Flope  is 
seen  the  large  village  of  St.  Irenee,  where  900  French  people  preserve  their 
ancient  customs  and  language.  A  few  miles  farther  E.  the  stoamer  round.? 
in  at  Murray  Bay. 

Murray  Bay  is  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  the  N,  Si\ore,  and  has 

fine  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing,  with  a  long  firm  beach.     It  is  also 

one  of  the  best  fishing-centres  in  the  Province,  and  sportsmen  meet  with 

success  in  the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Murray  IJiver,  or  the  Gravel  and 

Petit  Lakes.     The  steamer  stops  at  the  long  wharf  at  Point  a  Pique,  near 

which  are  the  hotels,  —  Dubcrger's,  the  Lome,  and  Warren's.     A  new 

hotel,  of  300  ft.  front,  is  being  built  for  the  summer  of  1875.    There  are  also 

summer  cottages  about  the  base  of  Cap  a  VAigle.     The  tourists  occupy 

Point  a  Pique  with  their  hotels,  and  make  excursions  to  the  lakes  and  the 

falls.    The  French  town  is  at  the  bridge  over  the  Murray  River,  and  is 

clustered  about  the  great  church  and  the  court-house  of  Charlevoix  County. 

It  has  3,000  inhabitants. 

•*  Of  all  the  picturesque  parishes  on  the  shore  of  our  grand  river,  to  which  innu- 
merable swarms  of  tourists  go  every  summer  to  take  the  waters,  none  will  interest 
the  lover  of  sublime  landscapes  more  than  Malbaie.  One  must  go  there  to  enjoy  the 
rugged,  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the  broad  horizons.  He  will  not  find  here  the  beau- 
tiful wheat-fields  of  Kamoura^ika,  the  pretty  and  verdurous  sliores  of  Cacouna  or 
Rimouski,  where  the  languorous  citizen  goes  to  strengthen  his  energies  during  the 
dog-days ;  here  is  savage  and  unconquered  nature,  and  view-points  yet  more  majes- 
tic than  those  of  the  coasts  and  walla  of  Bic.  Precipice  on  precipice  ;  impenetrable 
gorges  in  the  projections  of  the  rocks  ;  peaks  which  lose  themselves  in  the  clouds, 
and  among  which  the  bears  wander  through  July,  in  search  of  berries;  where  the 


lUVlICllE  DU   LOUP. 


Route  72.      295 


but  they 
lohcc.  Ati- 
j'rench  ves- 

1  between 
1  RI.  from 
ish  of  Les 
gh  on  the 
the  N.,  on 
The  situft- 
tho  river, 
houses  arc 
h  the  dark 


land-Midcs 
in  Canada, 
of  hillH  w«>re 
(uakeHshat- 
forests  were 
re  chanped. 
Ir;  roarings 
I  of  all  tbo 

)ass!ng  the 
E.  slope  is 
acrve  their 
ner  rounds 

e,  and  has 
It  is  also 
meet  with 
Jravel  and 
'<V/?«e,  near 
i.  A  new 
ire  are  also 
its  occupy 
es  and  the 
irer,  and  is 
ix  County. 

irhich  innu- 
vill  interest 
to  enjoy  tlie 
•e  the  bcau- 
Cacouna  or 
during  the 
nore  uiajes- 
a  penetrable 
the  clouds, 
;  where  the 


carlhoi  browses  In  September ;  where  the  solitary  rrow  and  the  royal  eaglo  make 
their  ne^ts  in  May  ;  in  short,  alpine  iandsrapes,  the  pathless  hipthlandu  of  .Scotland, 
a  11.  rcnic  nature,  tossed  about,  heaped  up  in  the  North,  far  from  the  ways  of  civ- 
llizel  men.  near  a  volcano  that  from  time  to  time  awakens  and  shaken  the  country  In 
a  manner  to  frighten,  but  not  to  endanger,  the  romantic  inhabitants.  According  to 
sonic,  in  order  to  enjoy  all  the  fulness  of  these  austere  beauties,  one  must  be  at  the 
privileged  epoch  of  life.  If  then  you  wish  to  taste,  in  their  full  features,  the  dreamy 
s  ilitudes  of  the  shon^s,  the  grottos,  the  great  forests  of  Point  \  Pique  or  Cap  \ 
r.Vi:,'le,  or  to  capture  by  hundreds  the  frisking  trout  of  the  remote  Oravel  LAkc.you 
must  have  a  good  eye,  a  well-nerved  arm,  and  a  supple  leg."    (LeMoine.) 

This  district  was  formerly  known  as  the  King's  Farm,  and  had  30  houses  at  tho 
conquest  of  Oanad:i.  It  was  then  granted  to  the  Scottish  officers,  Major  Nairn  and 
Malcom  Kr.iser,  who  soon  promoted  its  settlement.  It  was  explored  in  June,  1008, 
by  Clrimplaln,  wlio  named  it  Malle  Bale,  on  account  of  "  the  tide  which  runs  there 
marvellously,  and,  even  though  the  weather  Is  calm,  the  bay  Is  greatly  moved."  It 
Is  still  generally  known  as  Malbale,  though  tho  English  use  tho  name  Murray  Bay, 
given  In  honor  of  the  general  who  granted  It  to  the  Scots.  Tho  Scotch  families 
brought  out  by  Fraser  and  Nairn  arc  now  French  In  language  and  customs.  A 
depot  for  American  prlsoners-of-war  was  established  hero  in  1776,  near  the  Nairn 
manor-house,  and  the  barracks  were  built  by  tho  captives  themselves. 

The  great  French  settlement  of  St.  A^nes,  with  1,600  inhabitants.  Is  9  M.  W.  of 
Murray  Bay,  up  tho  valley,  and  on  tho  verge  of  the  wide  wilderness  of  the  Crown 
Lands.  A  rugged  road  follows  the  N.  shore  from  Murray  Bay  to  the  Saguenay 
Illver,  a  distance  of  about  40  M.,  passing  the  romantic  St.  Fidele  (9  M.  out ;  1,000 
inhabitants),  tho  lumbering  v'iage  of  Port  au  Persil,  tho  hamlets  of  Black  River, 
Port  aux  Qullles,  St.  Slmeou,  ;.nd  Calliere,  back  of  wliich  are  mountains  where 
many  moase  and  caribou  are  found.  Still  farther  £.  is  Bale  des  Bocbcrs,  on  an 
island-studded  bay. 

The  steamer  now  stretches  out  across  the  river  in  a  diagonal  course  of 
30  M.,  the  direction  being  about  N.  E.  The  river  is  about  20  M.  wido, 
and  the  steamer  soon  comes  in  sight  of  the  Kamouraska  Islands  (sec  pngo 
252),  on  the  1.,  and  then  passes  between  Hare  Island  (1.)  and  the  Pil- 
grims. The  vessel  soon  reaches  the  long  pier  at  Point  a  BeauUeu,  3  M. 
from  Rivi6re  du  Loup. 

Bivi^re  du  Loup  {'"'La  Eochelle  House;  and  several  largo  summer 
boarding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  village  of  1,200  inhabitants,  occupying 
a  fine  position  on  a  hillside  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  There  are  some 
pretty  villas  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  great  church  in  the  centre  of  tho 
town  is  a  prominent  landmark  for  miles.  About  3  'M.  up  the  river  are  tho 
famous  *  Riviere-du-Loup  Falls,  near  the  new  and  rr.assive  bridge  of  tho 
Intercolonial  Railway.  The  stream  here  plunges  over  a  cliff  about  80  ft. 
high,  and  then  rests  quietly  in  a  broad  pool  below.  Tho  views  of  tho 
river  and  its  islands  and  shipping,  from  the  streets  of  the  village,  are 
broad  and  beautiful;  and  many  summer  visitors  pass  their  vacations 
here,  finding  comfortable  accommodations  in  the  boarding-houses.  The 
Grand-Portage  road  runs  S.  E.  from  this  point  into  New  Brunswick,  cross- 
ing numerous  trout-streams  and  leading  through  a  desolate  region  of 
hills.  Its  first  point  of  interest  is  the  long  Temiscouata  Lake  (see  page 
58). 

Riviiredu  Loup  will  soon  be  one  of  the  chief  railway-centres  of  Canada.  It  has 
been  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  line  fur  years.    The  Intercolonial  is  now 


296      Route  72. 


CACOUNA. 


I    !< 


V 


I 

■.      f; 


\ 


nearly  (or  quite)  coinplot<>(l  from  this  point  to  St.  John  and  Halifax,  and  the  New- 
Brunswick  Railway  is  being  pushed  hitherward  up  the  St.  John  Valley  (see  page 
49). 

This  domain  was  granted  by  the  Compagnie  dcs  Indrs  Occidentales  to  the  Sieur 
de  la  Chesnoye  in  1673.  It  is  said  that  its  name  is  derived  from  the  faot  that  in 
former  years  great  droves  of  seals  {loups-marim^)  frequented  the  shoals  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  making  a  remarkable  uproar  at  night. 

A  p«,rsistent  attempt  has  been  made  to  call  this  town  FraservilU,  in  honor  of  the 
Frasers,  who  are  its  seigniors.  The  numerous  Frasers  of  this  Province  met  at 
Quebec  in  1868  to  re-form  their  ancient  Scottish  clan  organization,  and  to  name 
Provincial,  county,  and  parish  chieftains.  The  head-chief  is  entitled  The  Fraser, 
and  is  the  Hon.  John  Fraser  dc  Berry,  "  58th  descendant  of  Jules  de  Berry,  a  rich 
and  po\\orful  lord,  who  gave  a  sumptuous  feast  to  the  Emperor  Charlemagne  and 
his  numerous  suite,  at  his  castle  in  Normandy,  in  the  8th  century  "  The  solemn 
Scots  maintain  that  De  Berry  then  regaled  Charlemagne  with  strawberries  {/raises, 
in  the  French  language),  and  that  the  Emperor  was  so  greatly  pleased  that  he 
ordered  that  he  should  thenceforth  be  known  as  Fraiser  de  Berry,  and  from  him  the 
'Clan  Fraser  traces  its  name  and  descent. 

Cacouna  is  6  M.  from  Rividre  du  Loup,  and  is  the  clilef  summer  resort 
of  Canada.  The  *  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  the  most  fashionable  hotel,  and 
accommodates  600  guests,  at  $2.50-3  a  day.  The  Mansion  Ilotise  charges 
$  2  a  day.  There  are  several  summer  boarding-houses  whose  rates  are 
still  lower.  The  traveller  who  visits  Cacouna  from  Rividre  du  Loup  must 
be  on  his  guard  against  the  extortions  of  the  carriage-drivers,  who  fre- 
quently demand  exorbitant  fares. 

Twenty  years  ago  Cacouna  was  nothing;  it  is  now  filled  with  great  ho- 
tels and  boarding-houses,  and  adorned  with  many  summer  cottages.  It  is 
visited  by  thousands  of  Canadians,  and  also  by  many  Americans  "fuyant 
le  ciel  corrosif  de  New- York."  Here  may  be  seen  the  Anglo-Canadian 
girls,  who  are  said  to  combine  the  physical  beauty  and  strr-ngth  of  the 
English  ladies  with  the  vivacity  and  brilliancy  of  the  Americans.  Tiio 
amusements  of  the  village  are  like  those  of  similar  places  farther  S.,  — 
sea-bathing  and  fishing,  driving,  and  balls  which  extend  into  the  .small 
hours.  The  beach  is  good,  and  tlie  river-views  from  the  heights  are  of 
famed  beauty.  There  is  a  pretty  lake  back  among  the  hills,  where  many 
trout  are  found. 

The  great  specialties  of  Cacouna  are  its  pure  cool  air  and  brilliant  north- 
ern scenery.  It  is  sometimes  found  too  cold,  even  in  August,  during 
rainy  weather,  for  the  American  visitors,  who  then  iiurry  away  in  crowds. 
The  peninsula  of  Cacouna  is  a  remarkable  mass  of  rock,  nearly  400  ft. 
high,  which  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  low  isthmus.  Its  name 
was  given  by  the  Indians,  in  allusion  to  its  fomi,  and  signifies  "the  tur- 
tle." The  village  is  French,  and  has  400  inhabitants  and  3  churches. 
4j  M.  distant  is  the  populous  parish  of  St.Arsene,  and  8  M.  S.  is  St. 
Modeste. 

From  Riviere  du  Loup  the  steamer  runs  across  to  the  Saguenay  River, 
passing  within  3-4  M.  of  Cacouna,  and  running  between  the  Brandy  Pots 
(1.)  and  Red  Island  (see  page  252). 

The  Saguenay  Eiver,  see  Route  73. 


n 


md  the  New- 
lley  (see  page 

3  to  the  Sieur 
;  fart  that  in 
at  the  mouth 

honor  of  the 
vince  met  at 
and  to  name 

The  Fraser, 
Berry,  a  rich 
•lemagne  and 

The  solemn 
rries  {/raises, 
ased  that  he 
from  him  the 


nmer  resort 
)  hotel,  and 
nise  cliarges 
ie  rates  are 
Loup  must 
s,  who  fre- 

th  great  ho- 
tages.  It  is 
ns  "fuyant 
lo-Canadian 
ngth  of  the 
leans.  Tho 
irther  S., — 
0  the  small 
Ights  are  of 
vhere  many 


^ 


i 


i 


lliant  north- 
just,  during 
r  in  crowds, 
early  400  ft. 
.  Its  name 
!S  "the  tur- 
3  churches. 
\I.  S.  is  St. 


> 


enay  River, 
Jrandy  Pots 


» 


^ 


I  'Long. 


T 


^^c.^^» 


^       JE        Jt 


,ctc^ 


* 


10 


'^^ 


s"* 


(STATtTTS  MILS). 


■•  enojliIsh:  ]vj[ile:@        (statute  mile) 

W  15  80  35  30 

J  I  I  I  I 


p^V  .^«^ 


'Pt 


•'I'T.I 


"<iS-*v*- 


;^"^'^'^'^^pii^i||i>«!^ 


^"^wot 


'!£=?„  *;Kauunir;iska  I 


ooa 


St.Denl8 


^S»f 


isNV.'W 


'^■■'!ff'^■ 


M 


Oi- 


SAI 


AToullii  uUauHe 


jr-^^'-i" 


x^r© 


^   '     ot'  THE  '^  (^ . 


SAGUENAY 


RIVER 


jnm/ 


It' 


Jit'd 


:'-^. 


lir 


m^'A 


ISLEVERTE 


> 


IS/l^IP, 


OJ"  THAT  JP'ABT 


OF  THE 


Ifllaime 


tbavehsej)  jtr  tits 


SAGUENAY  BOATS. 


296     How 


'  ( i 


ki  I 


nearly  (or  quH 
Brunswick  lU 
49). 

This  domaii 
de  la  Chcsnoyi 
former  years  ( 
of  the  river,  n 

A  persistent 
Frasers,  who 
Quebec  in  18< 
Provincial,  co 
and  is  the  Ht 
and  powerful 
his  numerous 
Scots  maintai: 
in  the  Frencl 
ordered  that  b 
Clan  Fraser  tt 

Cacouna  i 
of  Canada, 
accommodat 
$  2  a  day.  ' 
still  lower, 
be  on  his  ga 
quently  dem: 

Twenty  y< 
tels  and  boai 
visited  by  th 
le  ciel  corro 
girls,  who  a; 
English  ladi 
amusements 
sea-bathing 
hours.  The 
famed  beau' 
trout  are  foi 

The  great 
ern  scenery, 
rainy  weath 
The  peninst 
high,  which 
was  given  b 
tie."  The  • 
4  J  M.  dista 
Modeste. 

From  Riv 
passing  witl 
(1.)  and  Red 

The  Sagu 


';'• 


I 


/ 


I. 


THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER.       Route73.      297 


73.  The  Sagnenay  River. 

steamers  leave  Quebec  for  Chieoutimi,  the  farthest  port  on  the  Sa^enay,  on 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  7  A.M.  (see  page  291) ;  and  for  Ha  Ila  Bay  on  Wednesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday.  They  reach  Tudousac  by  nightfall,  and  start  on  the  re- 
turn from  Chieoutimi  the  next  morning. 

Distances.  —  Quebec  to  Tudousac,  134  M. ;  Tadousac  to  Riviere  St.  Morguerite, 
15 ;  St.  Louis  Islets,  11) ;  Uiviere  aux  Canards,  23 ;  Little  Sagucnay  River,  27  ;  St. 
,lohn'.>«  Bay,  32;  Eternity  Bay,  41 ;  Trinity  Bay,  48;  Cape  Rouge,  56  ;  Cape  E:i.st, 
fi3;  Cape  West,  66 ;  St.  Alphonse,  72  ;  St.  Fulgence,  95 ;  Chieoutimi,  100.  This 
itinerary  is  ba.sed  on  that  of  the  steamship  company  and  is  not  correct,  but  will  bo 
useful  in  marking  approximations  to  the  relative  distances  between  the  points  on 
the  river.  There  is  no  other  bible  of  distances  accessible.  Imray's  Sailing  Direc- 
tions (precise  authority)  says  that  it  is  65  M.  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Chieoutimi. 

The  **  Saguenay  Eiver  is  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lake  St.  John,  into  which  11  rivers 
fall.  For  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  the  stream  is  from  1  to  2^  M.  wide, 
and  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by  lofty  precipices  of  syenite  and  gneiss, 
which  impinge  directly  on  the  shores,  and  are  dotted  with  stunted  trees. 
Along  their  slopes  are  the  deep  Tnes  of  glacial  striations,  telling  of  the 
passage  of  formidable  icebergs  down  this  chasm.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
100  fathoms  lower  than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  difference  which  is 

larply  marked  at  the  point  of  confluence.  The  shores  were  stripped  of 
.  eir  forests  by  a  great  fire,  in  1810,  but  there  are  large  numbers  of  hemlock 
and  birch  trees  in  the  neighboring  glens.  The  river  is  frozen  from  the  St. 
Louis  Isles  to  Chieoutimi  during  half  the  year,  and  snow  remains  on  the 
hills  until  June.  The  awful  majesty  of  its  unbroken  mountain-shores,  the 
profound  depth  of  its  waters,  the  absence  of  life  through  many  leagues  of 
'listance,  have  made  tlie  Saguenay  unique  among  rivers,  and  it  is  yearly 

isited  by  thousands  of  tourists  as  one  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  the  West- 
ern World. 

"  The  Saguenay  is  not,  properly,  a  river.  It  is  a  tremendous  chasm,  like  that  of 
the  Jordan  VrJley  and  the  Dead  Sea,  cleft  for  60  M.  through  the  heart  of  a  mountiiin 
wilderness.  ...  No  magical  illusions  of  atmosphere  enwrap  the  scenery  of  this 
northern  river.  Everything  is  hard,  naked,  stern,  silent.  Dark-gray  cliffs  of  granitic 
gneiss  rise  from  the  pitch-black  water  ;  firs  of  gloomy  green  are  rooted  in  their  crev- 
ices and  fringe  their  summits ;  loftier  ranges  of  a  dull  indigo  hue  show  themselves 
in  the  background,  and  over  all  bends  a  pale,  cold,  northern  sky.  The  keen  air, 
whicli  brings  out  every  object  with  a  crystalHne  distinctness,  even  contracts  the  di- 
mensions of  the  scenery,  diminishes  the  height  of  the  cliffs,  and  apparently  belittles 
the  majesty  of  the  river,  so  that  the  first  feeling  is  one  of  disappointment.  Still,  it 
exercises  a  fa.scination  which  you  cannot  resist.  You  look,  and  look,  fettered  by  the 
fresh,  novel,  savage  stamp  which  nature  exhibits,  and  at  last,  as  in  St.  Peter's  or  at 
Niagjira,  learn  from  the  character  of  the  separate  features  to  appreciate  the  grandeur 
of  the  whole Steadily  upwards  we  went,  the  windings  of  the  river  and  its  vary- 
ing breadth  —  from  ^  M.  to  nearly  2  M.  —  giving  us  a  shifting  succession  of  the 
grandest  pictures.  Shores  that  seemed  roughly  piled  together  out  of  the  frasments 
of  chaos  overhung  us,  —  great  masses  of  rock,  gleaming  duskily  through  their  scanty 
drapery  of  evergreens,  here  lifting  long  irregular  walls  against  the  sky,  there  split 
into  huge,  fantastic  forms  by  deep  lateral  gorges,  up  which  we  saw  the  dark-blue 
crests  of  loftier  mountains  in  the  rear.  The  water  btneath  us  waa  black  as  night, 
with  a  pitchy  glaze  on  its  surface;  and  the  only  life  in  all  the  savage  solitude  was, 

now  and  then,  the  back  of  a  white  porpoise,  in  some  of  the  deeper  coves The 

river  is  a  reproduction  —  truly  on  a  contracted  scale  —  of  the  fiords  of  the  Norwegian 

13* 


n 

t 

ii 


!H 


I 


110 


,  I 


i      1         !! 


I 


298      Route73.       THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

coofit The  dark  mountains,  the  tremendous  precipices,  the  flr  forests,  even  the 

settlements  at  Ila  Ila  Bay  and  L'Anse  k  I'Eau  (except  that  the  houses  are  white  in- 
stond  of  red)  are  as  completely  Norwegian  as  they  can  be.  The  Scandinavian  skip- 
pers wliocome  to  Canada  all  notice  this  resemblance,  and  many  of  them,  I  learn, 
settle  here."    (Bayard  Taylor.) 

"  From  Ila  Ha  right  down  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  you  see  nothing  but  the  cold, 
black,  gloomy  Siiguenay,  rolling  between  two  straight  lines  of  rocky  hills  that  rif-e 
steeply  from  the  water's  edge.  Thece  hills,  though  steep,  are  generally  roughly 
rounded  in  shape,  and  not  abrupt  or  faced  with  precipices.  This  makes  the  scenery 
differ  from  that  with  which  it  has  been  often  compared,  the  boldest  of  the  fiords  of 
Norway.  Over  the  rugged  hills  of  the  Saguenay  there  is  generally  enough  of  earth 
here  and  there  lodged  to  let  the  gray  rock  be  dotted  over  with  a  dark-green  sprink- 
ling of  pine-trees.  Perhaps  there  is  hardly  a  spot  on  the  Saguenay,  which,  taken  by 
itself,  would  not  impress  any  lover  of  wild  nature  by  its  grandeur,  and  even  sublimity  ; 
but  after  sailing  for  70  miles  downwards,  passing  rocky  hill  after  rocky  hill,  rising  one 
beyond  the  other  in  monotonously  straight  lines  alongside  of  you ;  .  .  .  .  after  vainly 
longing  for  some  break  in  these  twin  imprisoning  walls,  which  might  allow  the  eye 
the  relief  of  wandering  over  an  expanse  of  country,  —  you  will  begin  to  compare  tho 

Saguenay  ii  no  kindly  spirit  to  the  Rhine It  is  a  cold,  savage,  inhuman  river, 

fit  to  take  rank  with  Styx  and  Acheron  ;  and,  into  the  bargain,  it  is  dull.  For  the 
whole  70  miles,  you  will  not  be  likely  to  see  any  living  thing  on  it  or  near  it,  outside 
of  your  own  steamer,  not  a  house,  nor  a  field,  nor  a  sign  of  any  sort  that  living 
things  have  ever  been  there."    (White  ) 

"  Sunlight  and  clear  sky  are  out  of  place  over  its  black  waters.  Anything  which 
recalls  the  life  and  smile  of  nature  is  not  in  uni.«on  with  tlic  huge  nuked  cliffs,  raw, 
cold,  and  silent  as  the  tombs.  An  Italian  spring  could  effect  no  change  in  tho 
deadly,  rugged  aspect ;  nor  does  winter  add  one  iota  to  its  mournful  desolation.  It 
is  with  a  sense  of  relief  that  tlic  tourist  emcges  from  its  sullen  gloom,  and  looks 
back  upon  it  as  a  kind  of  vault,  —  Nature's  sarcophagus,  where  life  or  sound  seems 
never  to  have  entered.  Compared  to  it  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
nivincs  look  cosey  and  smiling.  It  is  wild  without  the  least  variety,  and  grand 
Apparently  in  spite  of  it.=clf ;  while  so  utter  is  the  solitude,  so  dreary  and  monoto- 
nous the  frown  of  its  great  black  walls  of  rock,  that  the  tourist  is  sure  to  get  impa- 
tient with  its  sullen  dead  reverse,  till  he  feels  almost  an  antipathy  to  its  very  name. 
The  Saguenay  seems  to  want  painting,  blowing  up,  or  draining,  —  anything,  in 
short,  to  alter  its  morose,  quiet,  eternal  awe.  Talk  of  Lethe  or  the  Styx,  —  they 
must  have  been  purling  brooks  compared  with  this  savage  river ;  and  a  picnic  on  the 
tanks  of  either  would  be  preferable  to  one  on  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay."  {London 
Times.) 

On  Sept.  1, 1535,  Tadousac  was  visited  by  the  wonder-loving  Cartier,  with  three 
vessels.  He  saw  the  Indians  fishing  off  shore,  and  reported  that,  "  in  a.scending  the 
Saguenay,  you  reach  a  country  where  there  are  men  dressed  like  us,  who  live  in 
cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  copper."  The  river  was  vLMted  by  Roberval 
in  1543,  and  part  of  the  expedition  was  lost.  Thenceforward  the  country  of  the 
Saguenay  was  explored  by  the  fur-traders  and  the  fearless  Jesuits.  In  1603  Tadou- 
sac  was  visited  by  Champlain,  around  whose  vessel  the  natives  crowded  in  their  canoes 
in  order  to  sell  or  barter  away  their  peltries.  Seven  years  later  a  solemn  and  beau- 
tiful scene  occurred  at  Point  la  Boule  (the  immense  promontory  which  is  seen  5 
M.  up-stream),  when  Champlain  and  Lescarbot  attended  the  great  council  of  the 
Montaignnis.  They  were  received  with  dignified  courtesy  by  the  Sagamore  Anada- 
bijou,  and  conducted  to  the  meeting  of  the  warriors,  where  several  grave  and 
eloquent  speeches  were  made  while  the  pipe  of  peace  was  passed  around.  Tlie 
Montaignais  at  that  time  numbered  9  tribes,  '2  of  which  dwelt  along  the  river,  and 
the  other  7  occupied  the  vast  area  towards  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  land  of  the  Esqui- 
maux. Their  last  Sagamore,  Simeon,  died  in  1849,  and  had  no  successor,  and  the 
poor  remnant  of  the  nation  now  obtains  a  precarious  living  by  beggary,  or  has  with- 
drawn into  the  fastnesses  of  the  North.  The  present  name  of  the  river  is  a  modifi- 
cation of  the  original  Indian  word  Sagg^ishsilcuss,  which  means  "a  river  whose 
banks  are  precipitous." 

In  1671  the  heroic  and  self-abnegating  Jesuit,  Pere  de  Crepieul,  founded  the  mis- 
sion at  Tadousac,  where  he  remained  for  26  years,  passing  the  winters  in  tho 
wretched  huts  of  the  savages.    Before  this  time  (in  1661)  the  Fathers  Druillettes  and 


*^ 


( 


TADOUSAC. 


Route  73. 


299 


ltd,  even  the 
ro  white  in- 
lavinn  skip- 
ni,  I  learn, 

it  the  cold, 
lis  that  ri.'e 
lly  roughly 
the  scenery 
he  flords  of 
gh  of  earth 
reen  sprink- 
h, taken  by 
I  sublimity ; 
:1,  rising  one 
after  vainiy 
low  the  eye 
ompare  the 
uman  river, 
11.  For  the 
r  it,  outside 
that  living 

hing  which 
cliffs,  raw, 
nge  in  the 
)lation.  It 
,  and  looks 
)und  seems 
the  wildest 
and  grand 
id  monoto- 
o  get  impo- 
very  name, 
lyihing,  in 
yx,  — they 
cnic  on  the 
"  {^London 


with  three 
ending  the 
vho  live  ill 
y  Roberval 
itry  of  the 
303  Tadou- 
heir  canoes 

and  beau- 
1  is  seen  5 
ncil  of  the 
ore  Anada- 
grave  and 
und.    The 

river,  and 
the  Esqui- 
)r,  and  the 
■  has  with- 
s  a  modifi- 
iver  whose 

d  the  mis- 
!rs  in  the 
Uettes  and 


4^-' 


M 


Dablon  had  ascended  the  river  to  Lake  St.  .John  and  there  had  baptized  many  In- 
dians, and  founded  the  mission  of  St.  Frani^ois  Xavicr.  The  Montaignais  are  still 
in  the  Catholic  faith,  and  each  family  has  its  prayer-book  and  breviary,  in  which 
they  are  able  to  read.  In  1671  Father  Albanel  ascended  the  Saguenay  from  Tadou- 
sac,  by  order  of  Intendant  Bigot,  and  pas.«ed  N.  to  Hudson's  Bay  by  way  of  the 
great  lakes  of  St.  John  and  Mistassini.  The  country  about  the  Upper  Saguenay  was 
then  well  known  to  the  zealous  churchmen,  but  after  the  decline  of  the  missions  it 
was  forgotten.  About  50  years  ago  the  Canadian  government  had  it  re-explored  by 
efficient  officers,  and  this  remote  region  is  now  l>eing  occupied  by  French-Canadian 
ha  nlets.  The  chief  business  on  the  river  is  the  exportation  of  lumber,  which  is 
shipped  from  Chicoutimi  in  immense  quantities. 

Tadottsao  is  a  small  village,  prettily  situated  on  a  semicircular  terrace 
surrounded  with  mountains  and  fronting  on  a  small  harbor,  deep  and 
secure.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here  about  24  M.  wide,  and  the  mountains 
of  tlic  S.  shore  are  visible,  while  on  clear  days  the  view  includes  the  white 
villages  of  Cacouna  and  Riviere  du  Loup.  The  *  Tndousac  Hotel  ($  2.50  a 
day)  is  a  spacious  establishment  on  the  bluff  over  the  beach.  It  was 
founded  in  1865  by  a  joint-stock  company,  and  has  been  successful.  The 
sea-bathing  is  very  good,  although  the  water  is  cold,  and  sea-trout  are 
caught  off  the  shore.  The  old  buildings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  near  the  hotel,  and  on  the  lawn  before  them  is  a  battery  of  antiquated 
4-pounder3.  E.  of  the  hotel  is  the  old  *  chapel  of  the  Jesuit  mission, 
which  was  erected  in  1746  on  the  site  of  a  still  more  ancient  church.  The 
summer  cottages  are  near  the  shore,  and  are  cheerful  little  buildings.  The 
Earl  of  Dufferin,  Governor-General  of  Canada,  has  erected  a  handsome 
house  here.  The  scenery  of  the  landward  environs  is  described  in  the 
Indian  word  Tadotisac,  which  means  knobs  or  mamclons. 

"  Tadousac  is  placed,  like  a  nest,  in  the  midst  of  the  granite  rocks  that  surround 
the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  The  chapels  and  the  buildings  of  the  post  occupy  the 
ed\;e  of  a  pretty  plateau,  on  the  summit  of  an  escarped  height.  So  perched,  these 
edifices  dominate  the  narrow  strip  of  fine  sand  which  sweeps  around  at  their  feet. 
On  the  r.  the  view  plunges  into  the  profound  waters  of  the  sombre  Saguenay  ;  in 
front,  it  is  lost  in  the  immense  St.  Lawrence.  All  around  are  mountains  covered 
with  fir-trees  and  birches.  Through  the  opening  which  the  mighty  river  has  cut 
through  the  rock,  the  reefs,  the  islands,  and  south  shores  are  seen.  It  is  a  delicious 
place  "  (Tache.) 

4  M.  E.  of  Tadousac  is  the  harbor  of  MotUin  d  Baude,  where  are  large  beds  of 
white  marble.  Charlevoix  anchored  here  in  the  Chameau  (in  1700),  and  was  so  en- 
thu.«iastic  over  the  discovery  that  he  reported  that  "  all  this  country  is  full  of  mar- 
ble." Pointe  Rouge,  the  S.  E.  promontory  before  Tadousac,  is  composed  of  an  in- 
tensely hard  red  granite.  The  shore  extends  to  the  N.  E.  to  the  famous  shooting- 
grounds  of  Mille  Vaches,  the  trout-stream  of  the  Laval  River,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
post  of  Betsiamitis  (see  page  233). 

In  the  year  1599  a  trading-post  was  established  at  Tadousac  by  Pontgrav^  and 
Chauvin,  to  whom  this  country  had  been  granted.  They  built  storehouses  and  huts, 
and  left  16  men  to  gather  in  the  furs  from  the  Indians,  but  several  of  these  died 
and  the  rest  fled  into  the  forest.  Two  subsequent  attempts  within  a  few  years  ended 
as  disastrously.  In  1628  the  place  was  captured  by  Admiral  Kirke,  and  in  1632  his 
brother  died  here.  In  1658  the  lordship  of  this  district, was  given  to  the  Sieur  De- 
maux,  with  the  dominion  over  the  country  between  Eboulements  and  Cape  Cor- 
morant. Three  years  later  the  pliice  was  captured  by  the  Iroquois,  and  the  garrison 
was  masimcred.  In  1690  three  French  frigates,  bearing  the  royal  treasure  to  Quebec, 
were  chased  in  here  by  Sir  William  Phipps's  New-England  fleet.  They  formed  bat- 
teries on  the  Tadousac  shores,  but  the  Americans  were  unable  to  get  their  vessels 


t 


:( 


f    1 


1  «•■ 

[li!i 

300      nonte  73. 


CniCOTJTIMI. 


up  through  the  swift  currents,  and  the  French  fleet  was  saved.  The  tradlng-pojt 
and  ntisslon  were  kept  up  with  advantage.  Cliarlevoix  visited  the  place  in  1720,  and 
says:  "  The  greatest  Part  of  our  Oeographerw  have  hen  placed  a  Town,  but  where 
there  never  was  but  one  French  hou.«e,  and  some  huts  of  Savages  who  came  tliere  in 
the  Time  of  the  Trade  and  who  carried  away  their  Iluts  or  Bootlis,  when  tliey  went 
away ;  and  tliis  was  tJie  wliole  matter.  It  is  true  tliat  tiiis  Port  lias  been  a  long 
Time  the  Ue.'Jort  of  all  the  Savage  Nations  of  the  North  and  Ea.'tt,  and  that  the 
French  reported  thither  as  soon  as  the  Navigation  was  free  both  from  France  and 
Canada ;  the  Mis.sionaries  also  made  Use  of  tlie  Opportunity, and  came  to  trade  bem 
for  Heaven,  And  when  the  Trade  was  over,  the  Merchants  returned  to  their  Homes, 
the  Savages  took  the  U'ay  to  their  Villages  or  Forests,  and  the  Gospel  Labourers  fol- 
lowed the  last,  to  compleat  their  Instructions." 

Tho  steamer  leaven  Ta<lonsac  during  the  evening,  and  ascends  tlie  river 
by  night,  when,  if  the  sky  is  unclouded,  there  are  beautiful  ollects  of  star- 
light or  moonlight  on  the  frowning  shores.  The  return  trip  down  the  river 
is  made  the  next  day,  and  the  full  power  of  the  scenery  is  then  felt.  This 
description  of  the  river  begins,  therefore,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and 
follows  the  river  downward,  detaching  the  detour  into  Ha  Ila  Bay,  for  the 
sake  of  continuity. 

Chicoutimi  (good  hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Chicoutimi  County,  and  has 
700  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay, 
and  is  the  great  shipping-point  of  the  lumber  districts.  Over  40  ships 
load  here  every  year,  most  of  them  being  squarely  built  Scandinavian 
vessels.  The  trade  amounts  to  $500,000  a  year,  and  is  under  the  control 
of  Senator  Price  of  (Quebec,  who  has  fine  villas  at  Chicoutimi  and  Tadousac, 
and  is  known  as  "  The  King  of  the  Saguenay."  The  powerful  house  of 
Price  Brothers  &  Co.  owns  most  of  the  S:\guenay  country,  and  has  estab- 
Hslnnents  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  In  England.  Their  property  in 
mills,  buildings,  and  vessels  is  of  immense  value.  Over  the  steamboat- 
pier  is  the  new  college,  which  is  being  built  of  stone,  about  an  open  quad- 
rangle. Near  by  are  the  church  and  the  convent  of  the  Good  Shepherd. 
Beyond  the  village  the  court-liouse  is  seen,  on  the  dark  slope  of  a  high 
hill;  and  the  white  ribbon  of  the  *  Chicoutimi  Falls  is  visible  to  the  1. 
The  Chicoutimi  River  here  falls  40-50  ft.,  just  before  entering  the  Sague- 
nay. This  stream  affords  fine  sport  for  the  fisherman,  and  contains  great 
numbers  of  fish  resembling  the  land-locked  salmon,  or  grilse. 

Chicoutimi  signifies  "  deep  water,"  and  was  so  called  by  the  Northern  Indians  who 
here  first  encountered  the  profound  depths  of  the  Saguenay .  There  i,-  fine  fishing  about 
the  falls  and  the  adjacent  rapids  (permission  must  ))e  obtained,  and  is  often  granted  in 
courtesy  to  strangers).  The  ancient  .lesuit  chapel  and  the  Ilud.son's  Bay  Company's 
post  were  situated  near  the  contlurnce  of  the  two  rivers,  and  within  the  ch.Tpel 
( which  remained  until  recently)  was  the  totnb  of  Father  Cocquart,  the  last  ot  the 
.  esuit  missionaries.  A  strong  mission  was  founded  here  in  1727,  by  Father  Labrosse, 
and  many  Indians  were  converted. 

St.  Anne  du  Saguenay  is  a  village  of  200  inhabitants,  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  Chicoutimi.  Lake  St.  John  is  about  60  ]\1.  W.  of 
Chicoutimi,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road,  which  passes  through  Jon- 
quidre,  Kenogami,  and  Hebrrtvllle  (1,200  inhabitants).  The  Rapids  of 
Terres  Rompues,  on  the  Saguenay  River,  are  'J  M.  above  Chicoutimi. 


wki 


•r* 


LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 


Jiouic  73,      301 


5  tradlng-podt 
e  in  172tt,  ami 
vn,  but  whtTo 

anie  there  in 

icn  tlu-y  went 

lieen  ii  lonj^f 

nnd  tliiit  thn 
1  Frnnrr  and 

to  trade  lieie 

tlu'ir  Homes, 
Labourers  fol- 

uls  tlio  river 
ects  of  stiir- 
\vn  the  river 
n  felt.  Tiiis 
iRution,  and 
Bay,  for  the 

tty,  and  has 
s  Sagiienay, 
■er  40  ships 
candinavian 
the  control 
d  Tadousac, 
111  house  of 
1  has  estab- 
property  in 
steam  bout- 
open  quad- 
I  Sliepherd. 
c  of  a  high 
le  to  the  I. 
the  Sague- 
itains  great 


Tndians  who 
Ashing  about 
en  granted  in 
y  Company's 
»  tlie  ehnpel 
9  last  o!  the 
ler  Labrosse, 


high  banli 
)  M.  W.  of 
rough  Jon- 
Rnpids  of 
/hicoutirai. 


•> 


"These  rapids  extend  3  M.;  tli^n  tliere  arc  3  M,  of  smooth  water;  then  n 
second  rapi'l  of  terrific  strength;  tiien  10  M.  of  still  wator;  then  2  M.  of 
rapids;  tlien  ^  M.  of  still  water.  Finally,  there  succeed  the  miglity  rush 
nnd  uproar  of  the  Grand  Dei  harge,  mingling  with  the  foam  and  tumult 
of  the  I'etit  Di'cliarge.  Tlu^sc  emjjty  the  waters  of  tiio  Grand  St.  John 
Lake,  and  sweeping  around  a  rugged  island  with  terrific  nnd  unnatural 
foiTC,  tmife,  and  rage,  contend,  ami  finally  melt  and  settle  down  into  tho 
quiet  mood  of  the  still  water  below."  In  this  part  of  the  river  is  found 
tho  winninish,  or  Northern  charr,  a  game-fish  whose  pink  meat  is  con- 
sidered a  greater  delicacy  than  brook-trout  or  salmon. 

Lake  St.  John  was  diseovered  in  1647  by  Father  Duqucn,  the  misfilonary 
at  Tadousao,  who  was  tlie  first  European  to  useenil  tlie  Saguenay  to  its  source. 
It  was  tlien  culled  by  the  Tndians  Picouai;ami,  or  Flat  Lake.  Several  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries soon  piissed  by  this  route  to  tho  great  Nekouba,  where  all  the  northern 
tribes  were  wont  to  meet  in  annual  fairs  ;  and  in  ltj72  Father  Albanel  advanced  from 
Tadousac,  by  Lake  St.  .Jolin  and  Luke  Misfassiui,  to  the  Mer  da  Noril,  or  Hud- 
son's Hay.  A  Catholic  mission  was  founded  on  the  lake,  at  Metabetohuan,  and 
posts  of  tli(>  Hudson's  Bay  Company  wcie  al.so  established  here.  The  lake  is  of 
great  area,  and  receives  the  waters  .<f  8  large  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Mis- 
tassini,  Mowing  down  2r>(>  M.  fron>  Lake  Mistassini,  which  is  76  X  30  M.  in  area. 
The  water  is  shallow,  and  is  agitated  into  furious  white  wavci  by  the  N.  W.  winds. 
To  tne  N.  and  W.  is  a  vast  region  of  lo.v  \olcanu  mountains  and  dreary  lands 
of  low  spruce  forests.  The  soil  along  the  hike-shores  is  said  to  be  a  fertile  allu- 
vium, capable  of  nourisinng  a  dense  i)opulatif)n  ;  but  the  winters  are  long  and  ter- 
rible. 20  years  ago  there  were  no  settlements  here  except  the  Hudson's  Bay  posts  ; 
now  there  arc  numerous  villages,  tho  chief  of  which  are  Roberval,  Ilivitro  a  I'Ours, 
and  St.  Jerome. 

Mr.  Price,  M.  P.,  states  that  a  missionary  has  recently  discovered,  high  upon  the 
Saguenay  (or  on  the  Mistassini),  an  ancient  French  fort,  with  intrenchments  and 
stockades.  On  the  inside  were  two  cannon,  and  several  broken  tombstones  dating 
from  the  early  part  of  tho  IGth  century.  It  is  surmised  that  these  remote  memorials 
mark  the  last  resting-place  of  the  Sieur  Roberval,  Governor-General  of  Canada,  who 
(it  is  supposed)  saileil  up  the  Saguenay  in  1543,  and  was  never  heard  from  after- 
wards. The  Ilobervals  were  favorites  of  King  Francis  1.,  who  called  one  of  them 
"  the  Petty  King  of  Viemen,"  and  the  other,  "  the  Gendarme  of  Hannibal."  They 
were  both  lost  on  their  last  expedition  to  America. 

In  descending  the  Saguenay  from  Chicoutimi  to  Ha  Ha  Bay,  the  scenery 
is  of  remarkable  boldness,  but  is  less  startling  than  the  lower  reaches  of 
the  river.  Soon  after  leaving  the  village  the  steamer  passes  the  pretty 
villa  and  the  Anglican  church  pertaining  to  Senator  Price.  Below  this 
point  is  a  line  of  hills  of  marly  clay;  and  Cape  St.  Francois  soon  rears  its 
dark  crest  on  the  1.  bank.  The  river  widens  rapidly,  and  the  hamlet  of 
at.  Fidfjence  is  seen  on  the  1,,  near  Pointe  Roches.  Beyond  the  ponderous 
walls  of  High  Point  is  another  broad  reach,  with  small  islets  under  the  1. 
bank.  The  steau.er  now  runs  between  the  frowning  promontories  of  Capo 
East  and  Cape  West,  and  passes  the  entrance  to  Ha  Ha  Bay. 

*  Ha  Ha  Bay  runs  7  M.  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay,  and  is  ascended  be- 
tween lofty  and  serrated  ridges,  bristling  with  sturdy  and  stunted  trees. 
So  broad  and  stately  is  this  inlet  that  it  is  said  that  the  early  French 
explorers  ascended  it  in  the  belief  that  it  was  the  main  river,  and  the 
name  originated  from  their  exclamations  on  rcach'ng  the  end,  either  of 


N« 


'Ml  \t 
It  *  . 


: 


i 


P 


t 

l' 
*     I; 


=r  ^1 


t 


t 


m 


n 


302      Jloute  73. 


IIA  IIA  BAY. 


nmuscmcnt  at  their  mistake  or  of  pleasure  at  the  beautiful  appearance  of 
the  meadows.  After  running  for  several  miles  between  the  terraced  clifls 
of  Capo  West  (on  the  r.)  and  the  opposite  ridges,  the  steamer  enters  a 
wide  haven  whoso  shores  consist  of  open  intervale-land,  backed  by  tall 
Ithie  heights.  The  entrance  is  4  M.  long,  1  M.  wide,  and  100  fathoms 
«leep,  and  the  haven  can  be  reached  by  ships  of  the  line  without  difticnlty. 
It  is  expected  that  this  bay  will  be  the  great  port  of  "the  hyperborean 
Latin  nation"  which  is  fast  settling  the  Upper  Saguenay  and  Lake  St. 
John  country.  Large  quantities  of  lumber  are  loaded  here  upon  British 
and  Scandinavian  ships,  and  u  flourishing  trade  is  carried  on  in  the 
autumn  by  sending  farm-produce  and  blueberries  to  Quebec,  — the  latter 
being  packed  in  cofllin-shaped  boxes  and  sold  for  10  -  20  cents  a  bushel. 

The  steamer  is  moored  to  the  wharf  at  St.  Alphonse  (Bagotville),  near 
which  is  the  church  and  a  village  of  250  inhabitants.  Calashes  are  found 
at  the  pier,  on  which  the  passengers  can  ride  up  over  the  hills  or  to  St. 
Alexis  (Grande  Bale),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants,  3  M.  distant  on  the  S. 
shore  of  the  bay.  The  mail-road  is  prolonged  from  this  point,  through  the 
uninhabited  wilderness  of  the  Crown  Lands,  to  St.  Urbain  and  St.  Paul's 
Bay  (see  page  292).  The  Riviere  a  Mars,  emptying  into  the  bay  between 
St.  Alphonse  and  St.  Alexis,  is  famous  for  its  salmon-fisheries. 

"  The  long  lino  of  sullen  hills  had  fallen  avray,  and  the  morning  sun  ehono  warm 
on  what  in  a  fr'endlicr  climate  would  have  been  a  very  lovely  landscape.  The  bay 
was  an  irregular  o'al,  witli  shores  that  rose  in  bold  but  not  lofty  heights  on  one 
pide,  while  on  the  other  lay  a  narrow  plain  witii  two  villages  clinging  about  the  road 
that  followed  the  crescent  beach,  and  lifting  each  the  slender  tin-clad  spire  of  its 
church  to  sparkle  in  the  sun.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  was  a  mountainous  top,  and 
ulnnc;  .:s  waters  were  masses  of  rocks,  gayly  painted  with  lichens  and  stained  with 
metallic  tints  of  orange  and  scarlet."    Howklls.) 

21  M.  from  Ila  Ila  Bay  is  Lac  a  la  Belle  Tritite,  famous  for  its  immense  red  trout, 
and  beyond  is  the  Great  Ha  Ha  Lake,  among  the  mountains,  with  bold  capes  en- 
circling forests,  and  a  pretty  island.  6  M.  from  Belle  Truitc  is  the  Little  Ha  Ha 
Lake,  on  whose  shore  is  a  stupendous  cliff  nearly  2,000  ft.  high.  The  blue  peaks  of 
the  St.  Margaret  Mts.  are  about  30  M .  from  Ha  Ha  Bay,  and  sweep  from  Lake  St. 
John  to  Hudson's  Bay.  Carriages  may  be  taken  from  St.  Alphonse  to  Chicoutimi 
(12  M.),  and  for  longer  excursions  toward  Lake  St.  John. 

After  passing  the  dark  chasm  of  Ha  Ha  Bay,  Cnpe  East  is  seen  on  the  1., 
throwing  its  serrated  ledges  far  out  into  the  stream,  and  cutting  off  the 
retrospective  view.  Rugged  palisades  of  syenite  line  the  shores  on  both 
sides.  "  The  procession  of  the  pine-clad,  rounded  heights  on  either  shore 
began  shortly  after  Ha  Ha  Bay  had  disappeared  behind  a  curve,  and  it 
hardly  ceased,  save  at  one  point,  before  the  boat  re-entered  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  shores  of  the  river  are  almost  uninhabited.  The  hills  rise 
from  the  water's  edge;  and  if  ever  a  narrow  vale  divides  them,  it  is  but 
to  open  drearier  solitudes  to  the  eye."  Just  before  reaching  Cape  Rouge 
(1.  bank)  the  ravine  of  Descente  des  Femmes  opens  to  the  N.,  deriving  its 
singular  name  from  a  tradition  that  a  party  of  Indians  were  starving,  in 
the  back-country,  and  sent  their  squaws  for  help,  who  descended  to  tho 
river  through  this  wild  gorge  and  Fecured  assistance. 


4M 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


Roule  73.      303 


pearnnec  of 
rmccd  clids 
ler  enters  n 
ked  by  tali 
100  fathoms 
It  difriculty. 
lyporborcan 
d  Lake  St. 
pon  British 

on  in  tlio 
—  the  latter 
I  busliel. 
tville),  near 
!S  are  found 
lis  or  to  St. 
it  on  the  S. 
Iirougli  the 

St.  Paul's 
ay  between 


Bhono  warm 
>e.  The  bay 
ights  on  one 
lout  the  road 
I  spire  of  its 
ous  top,  and 
stained  with 

Fe  red  trout, 
Id  capes  en- 
ittle  Ila  Ha 
ihie  peaks  of 
)m  Lake  St. 
)  Chicoutimi 


n  on  the  1., 
:ing  off  the 
res  on  both 
itiier  shore 
rve,  and  it 
le  St.  Law- 
3  hills  rise 
1,  it  is  but 
lape  Rouge 
leriving  its 
tarving,  in 
[led  to  the 


I 


^^ 


On  the  r.  bank  is  *Z,e  Tableau^  a  cliff  900  ft.  high,  whoso  rlverwanl 
face  contains  a  broad  siieet  of  dark  limestone,  GOO  X  300  ft.  in  area,  so 
smooth  and  straight  as  to  suggest  a  vast  canvas  prepared  for  a  picture. 
Still  farther  down  (r.  bank)  is 

"  *  Statue  Point,  where,  at  about  1,000  feet  above  the  water,  a  huge, 
rough  Gothic  arch  gives  entrance  to  a  cave,  i»^.  which,  as  yet,  the  foot  of 
man  has  never  trodden.  Before  the  entrance  to  tliis  black  aperture,  a 
gigantic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some  dead  Titan,  once  stood.  A  few 
years  ago,  during  the  winter,  it  gave  way,  and  the  monstrous  statue  came 
crashing  down  through  the  ice  of  the  Saguenay,  and  lel't  bare  to  view  the 
entrance  to  the  cavern  it  had  guarded  perhaps  for  ages." 

The  steamer  soon  passes  Cape  Trinity  on  the  r.  bank,  and  runs  in 
close  to  **  Eternity  Bay,  which  is  a  narrow  cove  between  the  majestic 
clifFs  of  Capo  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity.  The  water  is  150  fathoms  deep, 
and  the  cliffs  descend  abruptly  into  its  profoundest  parts.  *  Cape  Trinity 
consists  of  three  vast  superimposed  precipices,  each  of  which  is  6-600 
ft.  high,  on  whose  faces  are  seen  two  remarkable  profiles.  The  echo  in 
the  bay  is  wonderful,  and  is  usually  tested  by  discharging  a  gun  or  blow- 
ing a  whistle.  (In  recent  maps  and  descriptions  the  name  of  Eternity  has 
been  given  to  the  N.  cape,  and  Trinity  to  the  other.  This  is  not  correct, 
for  the  N.  cape  was  named  La  Trinity  by  the  Jesuits  on  account  of  its 
union  of  three  vast  sections  into  one  mountain.  It  is  known  by  that  name 
among  the  old  pilots  and  river-people.  The  Editor  has  substituted  the 
correct  names  in  the  ensuing  quotations.) 

•'  The  masterpiece  of  the  Saguenay  is  the  majesty  of  its  two  Rrandest  bulwarks, 
—  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity, — enormous  masses  of  rock,  1,500  feet  hiph, 
rising  sheer  out  of  the  black  water,  and  jutting  forward  into  it  so  as  to  shelter  a  lit" 
tie  buy  of  the  river  between  their  gloomy  portals.  In  the  sublimity  of  their  height 
and  steepness,  and  in  the  beautiful  effect  against  the  rock  of  the  pine-trees  which 
here  and  there  gain  a  dizzy  foothold,  nestling  trustfully  into  every  hollow  on  the 
face  of  the  tremendous  precipice,  these  capes  can  hardly  bo  surpassed  by  any  river- 
scene  in  the  world."    (VVhite.) 

"Suddenly  the  boat  rounded  the  comer  of  the  three  steps,  each  500  ft.  high,  in 
which  Cape  Trinity  climbs  from  the  river,  and  crept  in  under  the  naked  side  of  the 
awful  cliff.  It  is  sheer  rock,  springing  from  the  black  water,  and  stretching  upward 
with  a  weary,  efibrt-like  aspect,  in  long  impulses  of  stone  marked  by  deep  seams 
from  space  to  space,  till,  1,500  ft.  in  air,  its  vast  brow  beetles  forward,  and  frowns 

with  a  scattering  fringe  of  pines The  rock  fully  justifies  its  attributive  height 

to  the  eye,  which  follows  the  upward  rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity,  steep  after  steep, 
till  it  wins  the  cloud-capt  summit,  when  the  measureless  mass  seems  to  swing  and 
sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that  besets  him  who 
looks  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice.  It  is  wholly  grim  and  stern  ; 
no  touch  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence.  At  the  foot  of 
Cape  Trinity  the  water  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a  black  expanse,  in  the 
rounding  hollow  of  shores  of  unimaginable  wildness  and  desolation,  and  issues 
again  in  its  river's  course  around  the  base  of  Cape  Eternity.  This  is  yet  loftier 
than  the  sister  cliff,  but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the  stream,  and  from  foot  to 
crest  it  is  heavily  clothed  with  a  forest  of  pines.  The  woods  that  hitherto  have 
shagged  the  hills  with  a  stunted  and  meagre  growth,  showing  long  stretches  scarred 
by  fire,  now  assume  a  stately  size,  and  assemble  themselves  compactly  upon  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  setting  their  serried  stems  one  rank  above  another,  till  the  summit 
is  crowned  with  the  ma^s  of  their  dark  green  plumes,  dense  and  soft  and  beautiful; 


304      Route  73. 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


n 


so  that  the  spirit,  perturbed  by  the  spectacle  of  the  other  cliff,  is  calmed  and  as- 
Buafiod  by  the  serene  grandeur  of  this  ''     (IIo\veij.s"s  A  Clinnce  Acquaintanct.) 

"  Tliese  awful  cliffs,  planted  in  water  nearly  a  thousand  feet  deep,  and  soarinpinto 
the  very  sky,  form  the  gateway  to  a  rugged  valley,  stretching  inland,  and  covered 
with  the  dark  primeval  fcorst  of  the  North.     1  doubt  whether  a  subliuier  picture 

of  the  wilderness  is  to  bo  found  on  this  continent The  wall  of  dun-colored 

syenitic  granite,  ribbea  with  vertical  ?trenl;s  of  black,  hung  for  a  moment  directly 
over  our  heads,  as  high  as  three  Trinity  rpires  atop  of  one  another.  Westward,  the 
wall  ran  inland,  projecting  bastion  after  bastion  of  inaccessible  rock,  over  the  dark 
forests  in  the  bed  of  the  A'alley."    (Bayard  Taylor.) 

"  The  wild  scenery  jf  the  river  culminates  at  a  little  inlet  on  the  right  bank  be- 
tween Capes  Trinity  aid  Eternity.  Than  these  two  dreadfi  1  headlands  nothing  cau 
be  imagined  more  grai  d  and  impressive.  For  one  brief  mcnient  the  rugged  charac- 
ter of  the  river  is  partly  softened,  and,  looking  back  into  tl  e  deep  valley  between  the 
capes,  the  land  has  an  aspect  of  life  and  .aiild  luxuriance  which,  though  not  rich, 
at  lea.**t  seems  so  in  comparison  with  the  grievous  awful  barrenness.  Cape  Eternity 
on  this  side  towards  the  landward  opening  is  rretty  thickly  clothed  with  fir  and  birch 
mingled  together  in  a  color  contrast  which  is  beautiful  enough,  especially  where  the 
rocks  show  out  among  them,  with  their  little  cascades  and  waterfalls  like  strips  of 
silver  shining  in  the  sun.  But  Cape  Trinity  v.ell  becomes  its  name,  and  is  the  revei"se 
of  Jill  this.  1 1  seems  to  frown  in  gloomy  indignation  on  its  brother  for  the  weakness  it 
betrays  in  allowing  anything  like  life  or  verdure  to  shield  its  wild,  uncouth  deformity 
')f  strength.  Cape  Trinity  certainly  shows  no  sign  of  relaxing  in  this  respect  from 
its  dtH>p  savage  grandeur.  It  is  one  tremendous  cliff  of  linie>>>tone,  more  than  1,500 
feet  high,  and  inclining  forward  more  than  200  feet,  brow-beating  all  lieneath  it, and 
seeming  as  if  at  any  moment  it  would  fall  and  overwhelm  the  deep  black  stream 
which  Hows  so  cold  and  motionless  down  below.  High  up,  on  its  rough  gray  brows, 
a  few  stunted  pines  show  like  bristles  their  scathed  white  arms,  giving  an  awful 
w  ird  aspect  to  the  mass,  blanched  here  and  there  by  the  tempests  of  ages,  stained 
and  discolored  by  little  waterfalls  in  blotchy  and  decaying  spots.  Unlike  Niagara, 
and  all  other  of  God's  great  works  in  nature,  one  does  not  wish  for  silence  or  soli- 
tude here.  Companionship  becomes  doubly  necessary  in  an  awful  solitude  like  this." 
{London  Times.) 

When  the  Flying  Fish  ascended  the  river  with  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  suite, 
one  of  her  heavy  (j8-pounders  was  fired  off  near  Cape  Trinity.  "  For  the  space  of  half 
a  minute  or  so  after  tlie  discharge  there  wius  a  dead  silence,  and  then ,  as  if  the  i-eport 
and  concu.ssion  were  hurled  back  upon  the  decks,  the  echoes  came  down  crash  upon 
crash.  It  seemed  as  if  the  rocks  and  crags  had  all  sprung  into  life  under  the  tre- 
mendous din,  and  as  if  each  was  firing  G8-pounders  full  upon  us,  in  sharp,  crushing 
volleys,  till  at  last  they  grew  hoarser  and  hoarser  in  their  anger,  and  retreated,  bellow- 
ing slowly,  carrying  the  tale  of  invaded  .solitude  from  hill  to  hill,  till  all  the  distant 
mountains  seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  the  intrusion." 

St.  John's  Bay  (r.  bank)  is  6  M.  below  Eternity  Bay,  and  is  shallow 
enough  to  afford  an  anchorage  for  shipping.  It  is  2  M  wide  and  3  M.  long, 
and  receives  the  St.  John  River.  At  its  end  is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  in 
K  narrow  valle}''  Avhich  appears  beautiful  in  contrast  with  the  surrounding 
cl.ffs.  Far  inland  are  seen  the  blue  peaks  of  distant  mountains.  In  the 
little  cove  opposite  is  the  white  thread  of  a  lofty  cascade. 

The  Little  Saguenay  River  (r.  bank)  is  4  M.  below,  and  flows  down  out 
of  a  bristling  wilderness  where  are  famous  Indian  hunting-grounds  and 
pools  filled  with  trout.  A  short  distance  below  are  the  islets  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Riviere  aux  Canards.  The  steamer  then  sweeps  by  the  St.  Louis 
Isle,  a  granite  rock,  ^  M.  long,  covered  with  firs,  spruces,  and  birch-trees. 
There  is  1,200  ft.  depth  of  water  around  this  islet,  in  which  are  multitudes 
of  salmon-trout.  On  the  r.  bank  are  the  massive  promontories  of  Cape 
Victoria  and  Cape  George.  The  *  retrospect  from  this  point  affords  one 
of  the  grandest  views  on  the  river.    2  M.  below  (1.  bank)  is  seen  the  intcr- 


t-^ 


v 


«*^ 


i 


QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL.        Route  7 4. 


305 


ned  and  as- 
tanct.) 
foariiifrinto 
md  odvcrcd 
user  pic  fine 
dun-rolored 
ent  directly 
!ftward,  tile 
er  tJie  darlc 

it  bank  be- 
nothing  cau 
(led  cliarao- 
iic'txvccn  tile 
h  not  rioli, 
pe  Eternity 
tirandbircii 
y  where  the 
l<e  strips  of 
the  reveif  e 
wealincFsit 
li  deformity 
psppot  from 
tlian  1,500 
leath  it,  and 
acli  stream 
gray  brows, 
ig  an  awful 
ges,  Rtaiii»'d 
l<e  Niagara, 
mce  or  Foli- 
2  lilie  this." 

d  his  suite, 
pare  of  half 
f  the  it'port 
crash  upon 
Jer  the  tre- 
p,  crushing 
ted,  bellow- 
the  distant 


is  shallow 
3  M.  long, 
itujited  ill 
rrouuuiiig 
j.     In  tlie 

down  out 
unds  and 
he  mouth 
St.  Louis 
rch-treep, 
lultitudes 
of  Cape 
fords  one 
the  intcr- 


*  ^ 


V 


i. 


i 


vales  of  the  St.  Marguente  River,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Saguenay,  de- 
scending from  a  lake  far  N.  of  Chicoutimi,  and  famous  for  its  salmon-fisher- 
ies (leased).  It  is  a  swift  stream,  flecked  with  rapids,  but  is  navigable  for  20 
M.  by  canoes ;  and  flows  from  a  valuable  region  of  hard- wood  trees.  There 
are  huts  along  the  strand  at  its  mouth,  and  vessels  are  usually  seen  at  an- 
chor here;  while  fir  inland  are  bare  and  rugged  ridges.  The  tall  promon- 
tory beyond  this  river  is  seamed  with  remarkable  trap-dikes,  of  a  color 
approaching  black;  opposite  which  is  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Athanase. 

Beyond  Point  Crepe  (r.  bank)  is  the  deep  cove  of  St.  Etunne  Bay,  afford- 
ing an  anchorage,  and  bordered  with  narrow  strips  of  alluvial  land.  The 
steamer  now  sweeps  rapidly  down,  between  immense  cliffs,  and  with  but 
narrow  reaches  of  the  river  visible  ahead  and  astern.  Beyond  the  Passe 
Pierre  Isles  (r.  bank)  it  approaches  a  castellated  crag  on  the  r.,  opposite 
which  is  the  frowning  promontory  called  *  Fointe  la  Boule,  a  vast  granite 
mountain  which  narrows  the  channel  to  very  close  confines.  From  Pointe 
la  Boule  to  Tadousac,  the  river  flows  between  escarped  cliffs  of  fcldspathic 
granite,  with  an  appearance  resembling  stratification  dipping  to  the  S.  E. 
Their  lofty  rounded  summits  are  nearly  barren,  or  at  most  support  a  thin 
fringe  of  low  trees;  and  the  sheer  descent  of  the  sides  is  prolonged  to  a 
great  depth  beneath  the  w  ater. 

The  vessel  calls  at  DAnse  a  DEau,  the  little  cove  near  Tadousac  (see 
page  299);  and  soon  afterwards  steams  out  into  the  broad  St.  Lawrence, 
in  the  darkness  of  evening.  The  next  morning,  the  traveller  awakes  at  or 
near  Quebec. 

74.  Quebec  to  Montreal —The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  steamboats  of  the  Richelieu  Company,  the  Quebec  and  the  Montreal,  arc 
among  the  largest  and  most  elegant  river-boats  in  America.  They  leave  Quebec 
every  evening,  arriving  at  Montreal  early  the  next  morning.  Day-boats  are  some- 
times put  on  during  the  summer  season,  and  should  be  preferred  by  the  tourist,  as 
cTiuliling  him  to  see  the  river  and  its  villages.  The  Union  Line  entered  into  comj)e- 
tition  with  the  Richelieu  boats,  in  1874,  with  the  fine  nteamers  Atkenian  and  Cor- 
inthian. Tlie  prices  on  both  lines  were  reduced  to  the  following  figures,  but  will 
probably  be  raised  again  in  1875  :  — 

Fares. —  Quebec  to  Batiscan,  75c.;  to  Three  Rivers,  $1;  to  Sorel,  $1.25;  to 
Montreal,  S2  (supper  and  berth  i^jcluded). 

1>ii»tances.  —  Quebec  to  Batiscan,  69  M. ;  Three  Rivers,  90;  Sorel,  135;  Mon- 
treal, 180. 

Tiie.  Grand  Trunk  Railway  runs  two  trains  daily  between  Quebec  and  Montreal. 
Stations-  —  Quebec  (Point  Levi) ;  Iladlow,  2  M. ;  Chaudiere  Curve,  8  ;  Craig's  Road, 
15;  Black  River,  20;  Methofs  Mills,  28  ;  Lystcr,  37  .  Becancour,  41 ;  Somerset,  49  ; 
Stanfold,  55;  Arthabaska,  64;  Warwick,  71;  Daaville,  84;  Richmond,  96;  New 
Durham,  106  ;  Acton,  118  ;  Upton,  124;  Britannia  Mills,  130;  St.  Hyacinthe,  137  ; 
Soixantc,  144;  St.  Uilaire,  150;  St.  Bruno,  157;  St.  Hubert,  162;  St.  Lambert, 
167 ;  Montreal,  172. 

"  It  could  really  be  called  a  village,  beginning  at  Montreal  and  ending  at  Quebec, 
which  is  a  distance  of  more  than  180  M. ;  for  the  farm-houses  are  never  more  than  five 
arpents  apart,  and  sometimes  but  three  asunder,  a  few  places  excepted."  (Kalm,  the 
Swedish  traveller,  in  1749.)  In  1684  La  Hontan  s;tid  that  the  houses  along  these  shores 
were  never  more  than  a  gunshot  apart.    The  inhabitants  are  s'mple-minded  and 


If 


m 


m 


306     Jlo2(te  74. 


ST.  AUGUSTIN. 


1 


primitive  in  thrir  ways,  tenaciously  retaining-  the  Catliolic  faith  and  the  French 
language  anil  customs.  Emery  de  Caen,  Champlain's  contemporary,  told  the  Hugue- 
not sailors  that  "  Monseigueur,  the  Duke  de  Ventadour  (A'iceroy),  did  not  with  tiK.t 
they  should  sing  psalms  in  the  Great  lliver."  When  the  first  steamboat  ascended 
this  river,  an  old  Canadian  voyagi  ur  exclaimed,  in  astouisliment  and  doubt,  "  Mais 
croyez-vous  que  le  bon  Dieu  permettra  tout  ccla  I  " 

As  the  steamboat  swings  out  into  the  stream  a  fine  series  of  views  are 
afforded,  including  Quebec  and  the  Basin,  the  bold  bluffs  of  Point  Levi, 
and  the  dark  walls  of  the  Citadel,  almost  overhead.  As  the  river  is  as- 
cended, the  villas  of  Sillerj'  and  Cap  Rouge  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  on  the 
1.  are  the  wharves  and  villages  of  South  Quebec  and  New  Liverpool,  be- 
yond which  are  the  mouths  of  the  Etchemiu  and  C'-audiere  Rivers.  St. 
Augustin  is  on  the  N.  shore,  15  ^L  above  Quebec,  and  has  a  Calvatre,  to 
which  many  pilgrimages  are  made,  and  a  statue  of  the  Guardian  Angel, 
erected  on  a  base  of  cut  stone  in  front  of  the  church,  and  commemorating 
the  Vatican  Council  of  1870. 

Near  the  village  is  a  ruined  church  dating  from  1720,  at  whoRe  construction  tlie 
Devil  is  said  to  have  assisted,  in  tlic  form  of  a  powerful  black  stallion  who  hauled  in 
the  blocks  of  stone,  until  his  driver  unbridled  him  at  a  watering-place,  when  ho 
vanished  in  a  cloud  of  sulphur-smoke.  In  front  of  St.  Augustine  the  French  frigate 
Atalante  surrendered  to  the  British  fleet  in  1760,  after  a  heroic  but  hopeless  battle ; 
and  in  the  same  waters  the  steamer  Montreal  was  burned  in  1857,  and  200  passen- 
gers lost  their  lives. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles  is  3  M.  above  St.  Augustin  (N.  .  ire,  and  is  a  ship- 
building village  of  700  inhabitants.  Here  many  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec 
took  refuge  during  Wolfe's  siege  (1759),  and  were  captured  bj'  his  Gren- 
adiers. Here  also  the  American  armies  of  Arnold  and  Montgomery  united 
their  forces  (Dec.  1,  1775)  before  the  disastrous  assault  on  Quebec.  Pass- 
ing the  hamlet  of  St.  Antoine  de  Tilly,  on  the  S.  shore,  the  village  of  Les 
Ecureuih  is  seen  on  the  N.,  7  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles.  This  is 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  Biver,  famous  for  its  remarkable 
scenery  and  for  its  fine  trout-fishing  (on  the  upper  waters).  On  the  heights 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  Fori  Jacques  Cartier,  to  which  10,000 
French  troops  retreated  af'er  the  defeat  cf  Montcalm.  Nearly  a  year  later 
(June,  1760)  the  fort  was  lield  by  the  ]\Larquis  d'Albergotti,  and  was  bom- 
barded and  taken  by  Fr.iser's  Highlanders. 

6  M.  above  Les  Ecureuils  is  St.  Croix  (S.  shore),  a  village  of  750  in- 
habitants, with  a  black  nunnery  and  the  public  buildings  of  Lotbiniere 
County.  3  SL  teyond  (N.  shore)  is  Portneuf,  a  prosperous  little  town 
with  paper-mills  and  a  large  country  trade.  This  seigniory  was  granted 
to  M.  Le  Neuf  by  the  Cent  Associ^s  in  1647,  and  was  completely  deso- 
lated by  the  famishing  French  cavalry  in  1759.  Beyond  this  point  the 
scenery  becomes  less  picturesque,  and  the  bold  ridges  of  the  Laurentian 
Mts.  sink  down  into  level  lowlands.  Deschambault  (N.  shore)  has  500  in- 
habitants, with  a  trade  in  lumber  and  flour.  Lotbiniere  (S.  shore)  is  a 
town  of  2,500  inhabitants,  with  a  Convent  of  the  Bon  Pasteur  and  two 
stove-foundries.     Grondines  (N.  shore)  is  3  M.  beyond  Deschambault,  and 


^   1 


ti^ 


A 


THREE  RIVERS. 


noxite  74.     307 


«.?!■ 


%i» 


i^Si 


i. 


has  400  inhabitants;  and  St.  Jean  Deschaillons  (S.  sliore)  is  noted  for  its 
brickyards.  St.  Anne  de  la  Perade  (N.  (■hore)  lias  a  great  church,  and  is 
.  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Anne  River,  wliich  is  liere  crossed  by  a 
bridge  1,500  ft.  long.  Beyond  St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  (S.  shore)  is  tho 
busy  little  port  of  ^afiscara  (N.  shore),  with  its  two  lighthouses;  Gentilhj 
(S.  shore)  has  600  inhabitants  and  the  Convent  of  tho  Assumption;  and 
Champlain  (N.  shore)  has  400  inhabitants. 

Three  Elvers  {British  American  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  9,000  inhabitants, 
midway  between  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  was  founded  in  1G18,  under  the  name  of  Trols 
Rivieres,  and  played  an  important  part  in  the  eai*ly  history  of  Canada. 
The  (jhief  buildings  are  the  stately  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  Court-House, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  St.  Joseph's  College,  and  the  Episcopal  and  Wes- 
Icyan  churches.  The  city  has  a  bank,  2  Masonic  lodges,  and  4  semi- 
weekly  and  weekly  newspapers  (2  of  which  are  French).  Besides  the 
daily  boats  of  the  Richelieu  Line,  there  are  5  steamboats  plying  from  this 
port  to  the  adjacent  river-villages.  It  is  connected  with  Quebec  and 
Montreal  by  the  Three-Rivers  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
by  the  North-Shore  Railway,  and  is  building  a  new  line  up  the  St.  Mau- 
rice Valley  to  Grand  Piles.  There  are  large  iron-works  and  machine- 
shops  here,  and  stoves  and  car-wheels  are  made  in  great  numbers  from 
bog-iron  ore.  The  chief  industry  is  the  shipment  of  lumber,  which  comes 
down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Canadian  government  has  expended 
$200,000  in  improving  the  navigation  on  the  St.  Maurice,  and  over 
$1,000,000  has  been  invested  in  mills  and  booms  above. 

The  St.  Maurice  River  waters  a  district  of  immense  (and  unknown)  extent, 
abounding  in  lakes  and  forests.  Portions  of  tliis  great  northern  wilderness  have 
been  visited  by  the  lumbermen,  whocond.ict  rafts  toThree  Rivers,  where  the  lumber 
is  sawed.  About  22  M.  above  the  city  are  the  noble  Falls  0/  the  Shawanegan, 
where  the  great  river  plunges  over  a  perpendicular  descent  of  150  f^.  between  the 
lofty  rocks  called  La  Grand''  Mere  aud  Le  Bonhomrne.  A  few  miles  above  are  the 
Falls  of  the  GranW  Mire.  These  falls  are  visited  by  engaging  canoes  and  guides  at 
Three  Rivers,  while  hunting-parties  conducted  by  Canadian  voyagettrs  or  Algonquin 
Indians  sometimes  pass  thence  into  the  remote  northern  forests  in  pursuit  of  the 
larger  varieties  of  game.  Tho  head-waters  of  the  St.  Maurice  are  interlcKiked  with 
those  of  the  Saguenay. 

Across  the  St.  Maurice  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelaine ;  and  on 
the  S.  shore  are  Becancour,  the  capital  of  Nicolet  County,  and  St.  Angel  de  Laval 
(Doucett's  Lauding),  the  terminus  of  a  br  nch  of  the  Qrand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  steamer  soon  enters  Lake  St.  Peter,  a  shallow  widening  of  the  river 
22  M.  long  and  8  M.  broad.  It  has  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  (partly  ar- 
tificial), which  is  marked  out  by  buoys  and  poles,  and  is  used  by  large 
vessels.  Immense  lumber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  downward 
like  floating  islands,  and  bearing  streamers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  the 
lumbermen.  In  stormy  weather  on  the  lake  these  rafts  sometimes  come 
to  pieces.  The  inlets  along  tho  low  shore-!  afford  good  duck-shooting;  and 
enormous  quantities  of  eels  and  pike  are  taken  from  the  waters.    Near  the 


I'  i 

1 


r : 


1 

. 

f 

'   , 

■'   ' 

1 

■  .- 

1 

f  1 

! 

P;  I! 


1 

' 

: .     [ 

m 

M 

id 

'A 

' 

i 

1 

i 

i 


308      lioute  71 


SOREL. 


E.  end  of  the  lake,  at  tlie  mouth  of  tlie  Nicolet  River,  is  the  populous 
town  of  Nioolet,  famous  for  its  flour  and  lumber  trade  and  for  its  noble 
college,  with  its  250  students  and  a  library  of  10,000  volumes.  The  build- 
ings are  surrounded  by  attractive  parks  and  gardens.  On  the  N.  shore  is 
Rivi6re  du  Loup  en  haul,  near  which  are  the  celebrated  St.  Leon  Springs 
(reached  by  daily  stage  from  Three  Rivers,  in  24  M. ;  fare,  $1.50;  Gil- 
man's  Hotel,  and  others).  St.  Francois  du  Lac  is  a  pretty  village  on  the 
S.  W.  shore,  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  St.  Francis  River. 

On  leaving  Lake  St.  Peter,  the  steamer  threads  her  way  through  an 
archipelago  of  low  islands,  and  soon  reaches  Sorel  (four  hotels),  a  city  of 
7,500  inhabitants,  with  3  weekly  papers  (2  French),  a  Catholic  college, 
several  shipyards  and  foundries,  and  a  large  country  trade.  It  is  at  the 
mouth  of  the  great  River  Richelieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  George  and  Lake 
Champlain,  whose  head-waters  are  interlocked  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 
Navigation  is  kept  up  between  this  point  and  the  Lake-Cham  plain  ports  by 
the  Chambly  Canal,  and  a  railway  is  being  built  to  meet  the  Grand  Trunk 
line  at  Upton.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  its  broad  streets  are 
adorned  with  trees.  In  the  centre  is  the  Royal  Square,  whose  fine  old 
elms  are  much  admired. 

Fort  Richelieu  was  built  on  this  site  in  1641 ,  and  was  re-constructed  and  enlarged 
by  Capt.  Sorel,  of  the  Carignan  Regiment,  under  orders  from  Gov.  de  Tracy  (1665). 
In  November,  1775,  it  was  occupied  by  Col.  Easton,  with  a  strong  force  of  Continen- 
tal troops  and  a  flotilla,  and  this  detachment  captured  11  sail  of  vessels,  containing 
Gen.  Prcscott  and  the  British  garrison  of  Montreal.  Sorel  was  for  many  years  the 
summer  residence  of  the  Canadian  governors,  and  on  being  visited  by  Prince  Wil- 
liam Henry  of  England  (afterward  King  William  IV.)  an  abortive  attempt  was  made 
to  change  its  name  to  William  Henry. 

Berthier  en  haut  is  6  M.  above  Sorel,  on  the  N.  shore  (semi-daily  steam- 
ers), and  is  an  important  manufacturing  town  of  1,700  inhabitants,  situated 
amid  rich  farming  lands.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  M.  Faribault,  long  time 
a  N.  W.  Commissioner,  and  founder  of  Faribault,  Minnesota.  Back  of 
Berthier  are  the  populous  towns  of  St.  Cuthbert,  St.  Norbet,  St.  Felix  de 
Valois,  and  St.  lilizabeth.  Lanoraie  is  9  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  Shore), 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  St.  Lawrence  &  Industry  Railway,  which 
runs  N.  W.  12  M.  to  St,  Thomas  and  Joliette,  and  thence  into  Montcalm 
County.  15  M.  above  Sorel  (S.  shore)  is  Contrecoeur,  noted  for  its  maple- 
sugar;  and  Lavaltrie  is  15  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  shore),  and  has  2 
lighthouses.  6  M.  above  is  St.  Sulpice  (N.  shore),  beyond  which  is  L'As- 
somption  (Hotel  Richard),  a  prosperous  village  of  2,600  inhabitants. 
Above  the  N.  shore  village  of  Rcpentigny  the  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa 
River  (Rivi6re  des  Prairies)  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  diverged 
from  the  Ottawa  at  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 

Varennes  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  S.  shore,  opposite  Isle  St.  Tlierese, 
and  connected  by  a  ferry  with  Bout  de  I'lsle,  and  with  Montreal  (15  M.  dis- 
tant) by  a  daily  steamer.     It  has  825  inhabitants,  and  manufactures  many 


c^ 


ti- 


e^ 


e^ 


»9 

u- 

9»f 
er- 

tat 
(oe 
^re 
!at 
lot 


ux 

A 

ttt 
in 


en 
es 
lie 


mm 


«t^ 


!1 


1 1 


ii ;  >• 


i 


m 


■<\  ^ 


i 


11 


308     Jioi 

E.  end  of  t 
town  of  Ni 
college,  wit 
ings  are  sui 
Rivl6re  du 
(reached  b; 
man's  Hot€ 
S.  W.  slion 
On  leavi 
archipelagc 
7,500  inhab 
several  shij 
mouth  of  t 
Champlain 
Navigation 
the  Chamb 
line  at  Upt 
adorned  wi 
elms  are  m 

Fort  Richi 
by  Capt.  Soi 
In  Novembe 
tal  troops  ai 
Gen.  Prescoi 
summer  resi 
liam  Henry  t 
to  change  it 

Berthier 
ers),  and  is 
amid  rich  i 
a  N.  W.  C( 
Berthier  ar 
Valois,  an( 
and  is  the 
runs  N.  W 
County, 
sugar;  ani 
lighthouse! 
somption 
Above  the 
River  (Riv 
from  the  C 

Vareniu 
and  connei 
taut)  by  a 


issm^ 


■^■■■^"rmiSKK^ 


I 


Hi 


■aT^alSi^ 


I     t 
I     k 

!  5 


XA^ 


Montreal: 


.'). 

C). 
7. 

H. 
U. 

10. 

II 

12. 

in. 

14. 
15. 

16. 
17. 
18. 

1!». 


C'l'ly  Hall  and  Bon  se 
cours  Market 
PoM  O/J'ice 
Court  House. 
I'tt/tinean  Market- 
Si.  Ann's  » 
St.  Patricias  HaU. 
Mililary  School . 
( 'ry.^tal  Puiafe. 

Cli  II  relies. 

.Cat hoi ic  t'athedrttl . 
Notre  Da  me. 
Christ  Church  i'athedralM.i. 
O'esii  (Jenuit'^ >.  D.3. 

St.  Patricks  (CatJil.        D.4. 
American .  B.4 

Tririty.  F.  4. 

Xotrelhimc  licBonsi-tivir.s-  F.  5. 
Si  .lamc!  tCalhj   .  F.  ;J. 

SI .  (irortfe  ( Epis.i  C  4. 

Si.  J'.tu'l  (  /'rcf.)  C.'l. 


F.3, 
F.4. 
.:4. 
IL4. 
D..1. 
D.4. 
F.4. 

ax 

(14. 

E.y 


21. Arch b/.f hop's  fa/ae-e. 

2Z.Iilack  Sunnery. 

Ih.irray 

%\.  Seminary  of'. St.  Sulpiee 

25.  ,.  PrieaLs. 

26.  St.  Marys  Cnflcffc. 

27.  Mc.  Hill 
28.MoLsans 

?A  O'ener^tl  I[ox/tH<il . 
30.IloleJ  lUeti 
i\..Sk*itintf  Rink-. 
SZ.fu'toria  Square. 
39.1'l^u-e  D'Arrncs.  . 
a.Fiffer  Square.    . 
i5.C/ui/np_f/e  Mar.s. 

Holds. 

.10. -SV.  Lawrence  HaU. 

%'l.St.Jam.e.s. 

^.Ottawa. 

m.  Albion. 

iQ.R.R. Station. 


r.4. 

E..1 

K.'.V 
E.;». 

I>..J. 
C.  'i. 
11.4. 
IJM. 
E.l. 
B..1. 
I).  4. 
E.i». 
F.4. 
F.4. 

K.4. 
D.4. 


unnDQi 


UL 


i 


•  ««iwc»wi«i5saa*Ei!<a^_  isti  jBBjjC 


f 

i 

\    ' 

i      . 

'       '' 

\  |>M 

•  t 

! '  liii 

i 

I- : 


I 


i 


i'^ 


V 


1.  ■ 


308     Jii 

E.  end  of 
town  of  N 
college,  wi 
ings  are  si 
Riviere  di 
(reached  1 
man's  Hot 
S.  W.  sho 
On  lea^ 
archipelaj 
7,500  inha 
fceveral  sli 
mouth  of 
Champlalj 
Navlgatio 
the  Cham 
line  at  Uj 
adorned  v 
elms  are  i 

FouRicl 
by  Capt.  S« 
In  Noveml 
tal  troops  ( 
Gen.  PresC' 
summer  rei 
liam  Henr3 
to  change  i 

Berthie 
ers),  and  i 
amid  rich 
a  N.  W.  ( 
Berthier  « 
Valois,  ar 
and  is  th 
runs  N.  "V 
County, 
sugar;  ai 
lighthous( 
somption 
Above  th( 
River  (Ri 
from  the 

Vareni 
and  connt 
tant)  by  I 


2! 


J 


E 

] 

I 

]L 

r' 

L 


?5?, 


~,7 


MONTREAL. 


Jioute  75.      309 


carriages.  The  church  is  a  large  and  stately  buildiiifr,  with  two  conspicu- 
ous towers.  1  M.  from  the  village  are  the  celebrated  Vnrennes  Springs, 
which  are  saline  in  character  and  possessed  of  valuable  medicinal  proper- 
ties. One  of  them  emits  great  quantities  of  carbonated  hydrogen  gas,  and 
the  other  yields  2-3  gallons  a  minute,  and  is  much  visited  by  invalids. 
Arraiigements  are  being  made  to  establish  a  first-class  summer  resort  at 
this  point.  Above  Varennes  is  Boucherville,  the  birthplace  of  Chief  Justice 
Sir  Louis  Hippolyte  Lafontaine.  The  low  and  marshy  islands  off  this  shore 
are  famous  for  duck-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here  at 
the  close  of  the  winter.  Pointe  aux  Trembles  is  to  the  N.,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  and  is  an  ancient  village  dating  from  1674. 

"  We  were  gliding  past  Longueuil  and  Bouchcrville  on  the  (left),  and  Pointe.  aux 
Tremblex, '  so  called  from  having  been  originally  covered  with  aspens,'  on  the  (right). 
I  repeat  these  names  not  merely  for  want  of  more  substantial  facts  to  record,  but 
because  they  sounded  singularly  poetic  in  my  ears.  There  certainly  was  no  lie  in 
them.  They  suggested  that  some  simple  and  perchaace  heroic  human  life  might 
have  transpired  there."    (Tuoreau.) 

Clustering  villages  are  now  seen  on  either  shore,  and  the  river  is  strewn 
with  low  islands.  At  9  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles  the  steamer  reaches 
her  pier  at  Montreal,  with  the  magnificent  Victoria  Bridge  spanning  tho 
river  in  front. 

75.   Montreal 

Hotels.  —  *  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  139  Oreat  St.  James  St. ,  accommodating 500  guests, 
$  3.50  a  day  ;  *  Ottawa  Hotel,  246  Great  St.  James  St.,  $3.50  a  day ;  Montreal  Hou  e, 
Custom-Uousc  Square,  $2.50  a  day  ;  Donncgana  Hotel,  Notre  Dame  St.,  $2.50  a 
day  ;  Albion  Hotel,  141  McOill  St.,  $  2  a  day  ;  Canada  Hotel,  St.  Gabriel  St.,  $  2  a 
day  (frequented  by  French  Canadians) ;  the  American,  22  and  26  St.  Joseph  St.,  $  2 
a  day.  There  are  also  numerous  French  hotels  of  the  second  class,  among  which 
are  the  Hotel  Richelieu,  45  St.  Vincent  St.  ;  theMorrisseau,  St.  Paul  St  ;  Hotel  du 
Nord,  131  St.  Paul  St. ;  and  the  Hotel  Lepine,  151  St.  Paul  St.  Montreal  needs  a 
modern  first-class  hotel. 

Sliops-  —  The  most  attractive  are  on  Great  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  Sts. 
Among  the  chief  houses  for  clothing  are  Henry  &  Wilson,  236  St.  James  St.  ;  \V. 
Walsh  &  Co.,  463  Notre  T^  -e  St.  JDry  goods  and  gloves,  Brown  &  Claggct,  corner 
Notre  Dame  and  St.  Helen  Sts. ;  Wm.  McDunnough,  280  Notre  Dame  St.  {laces  a 
specialty)  ;  Thomas  Mussen,  257  and  259  Notre  Dame  St.  ;  Ste.  Marie  Brothers,  454 
Notre  Dame  St.  Furs  and  hats,  A.  Brahadi,  corner  St.  Lambert  and  Notre  Dame  SM. 
Jewelry,  Savage,  Lyman,  &  Co.,  228  St.  James  St. ;  E.  G.  Mellor,  285  Notre  Dame  St.; 
Alex.  D.  Daly,  426  and  428  Notre  Dame  St.  The  parlors  of  W.  Notman,  the  cele- 
brated photographer  (very  high  prices),  are  at  17  Bleury  St.  Turkish  baths,  Swedish 
movement  and  health-lift,  at  140  St.  Monique  St.,  near  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Amusements.  —  Theatre  Royal,  19  Cott^  St.,  open  usually  during  the  sum- 
mer. Lectures  are  given  at  the  Association  Hall,  corner  of  Craig  St.  and  Victoria 
Square.  Lectures  and  other  entertainments  are  also  given  at  the  hall  of  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  204  Great  St.  James  St.  Bit'iards,  at  Nordhcimer's  Hall,  Great 
St.  James  St.  The  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  I  rummond  and  Dorchester  Sts.,  is 
famous  for  its  winter  carnivals.    The  Thistle  Rhik  is  near  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Keading-Rooms.  —  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  Victoria  Square; 
Merchants'  Exchange,  11  St.  Sacrament  St.  ;  M  •''hanics'  Institute,  204  Great  St. 
James  St.;  Institut  Canadien,  111  Notre  Dame  St.;  (Euvre  des  Bons  Livres,  327 
Notre  Dame  St.    There  is  a  circulating  library  at  666  Dorchester  St.  (Mrs.  Hill's). 

Consuls. — United  States,  145  Great  St.  James  St.;  Germany,  61  St.  Sulpiro 
St. ;  France,  75  Notre  Dame  St. ;  Austro-Hungary,  61  St.  Sulpice  St.  ;  Italy,  158 
Forti£catioa  Lane ;  Belgium,  873  Sherbrooke  St. 


I 


II' h: 


■}r. 


*i=i- 


■I  : 


310      Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


^^^iii 


Post-Offlce,  on  Grmt  St.  Jnmcn  St.,  nonr  St.  FrniK^ois  Xavior  St.  Ttlr^rnph, 
centnil  offlce  of  tho  Mcutrottl  TiU'grapli  (Jomimii)  ,  corner  of  St.  Hacrauicnt  autl  St. 
Francois  Xiivicr  Sts. 

Cai-riaKe8. — (Onc-horso  )  For  1-2  por.wn.v,  witliin  a  rity  division,  Ifi  rcnff  ; 
bctwet!n  two  points  in  tlic  city,  'I'tv.  ;  by  tiit-  liour,  CMr  ,  ami  20c.  fur  racli  adili- 
tioiiiil  4  liour.  Kor3-4  piirHons,  witliin  a  city  divi.«iiin.  2.'jc. ;  lHtw<.  en  two  point.-  in 
th<!  city,  40c.  ;  by  tlio  liour,  70  c  ,  nn  I  30  c.  for  ciu'liniMitional  I  liour.  (Two-hor.  c 
carriage.**. )  For  1-2  persons,  witliin  .i  city  divi^ion,  .'!'"■  ;  between  two  point:  in  the 
city,  40c. ;  by  t lie  liour,  T-^c,  and  30c.  for  each  lulilitional  A  hour  For  3-4  pcr- 
SOI1.1,  within  a  citv  division,  40  c.  ;  1  ctwoen  two  jioints  in  dilTerent  divisions,. "".O  c. ;  by 
the  hour,  ,'#  1  ;  and  40  c.  for  every  additional  i  hour.  The  first  division  inchulcn  tho 
district  between  McGill  St  ,  Craig  St.,  tlio  Quebcc-Uate  Barracks,  and  the  river  ;  tlio 
second,  the  wards  S  and  W.  of  the  first  and  of  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.  ;  the  tlilrd  the 
ward.'<  N.  and  E.  of  the  first  and  of  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.  (.ipproximat^'ly). 

Horse-cars  rnn  across  the  city  on  Craig,  151cury,and  ."^t  Catlierine  St.«. ;  al.<!0 
on  St.  Marv,  Notre  Danie,  and  St.  Joseph  Sts.  ;  and  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.  to  St. 
Jean  liapfi  tc. 

KalUva.yH.  —  To  IJoston  by  way  of  St.  Albans,  Concord,  and  Lowell,  In  834  M. ; 
or  by  way  of  Fitchburg,  in  344  M.  ;  or  by  the  lu-w  route,  the  Southeastern  Railway. 
To  New  York,  by  Rutland  and  Albany,  3().5  M.  (by  Lake  Chaniplain,406M.) ;  to  Que- 
bec, 172  M.  (in  1 1rs.) ;  to  IMattsburg,  (13  M.  :  to"  Rouse's  Point,  50  M.  ;  to  Toronto, 
333  M.  (14  -  15  hrs.  J ;  to  Detroit  (861  M.)  and  Chicago  ^,145  »L) ;  to  Ottuwa,  \CA  M. 

Stag€!H  run  out  from  .Montreal  in  all  directions,  daily.  To  St.  C6saire,  Marieville, 
and  Chaiiibly  ;  St  Eustachc,  St.  Augustin,  St.  Schnl.astique,  St.  Coluniban,  and  St. 
Canut ;  New  (Jlasgow,  Kilkenny,  St.  JiVonie,  .'■fanbridge,  St.  Lin,  St.  ILvpolyte,  St. 
Agathe  des  Monts,  St.  Adele,  St.  Janvier,  St.  Thc'-rc'-e  do  Rlainville,  >t.  Sophie; 
St.  Vincent  de  I'aul,  Ma.scouche,  Terrebonne,  and  St  Sauveur  ;  PointeauxTrcniblcF, 
Sanlt  au  Recollet,  and  St.  Martin. 

8teainsliii>8.  —  The  first-class  ocean  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line  and  the  Do- 
minion Line  leave  Montreal  2-3  times  wiekly  during  the  season  of  navigation,  for 
Liverpool  and  Glasgow.  The  Richelieu  F.iine  and  the  Union  Line  each  run  daily 
Bteauicrs  to  the  lower  livcr-ports  and  Quebec.  The  mornliigand  evening  trains  to  Ln- 
chlue  connect  wltn  the  steamboats  for  Ottawa,  by  way  of  the  Ottawa  River.  The 
vessels  of  the  Canadian  Navigation  Company  ascend  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  On- 
tario, from  Montreal  to  the  upper  river-ports,  Toronto  and  Hamilton.  The  St. 
HMne  and  Ottawa  make  semi-weekly  trips  to  the  Bay  of  Qulnte.  Tlie  Quebec  & 
Gulf  Ports  S.  S.  Co.  despatch  a  weekly  steamer  from  Mont  .al  to  Percf?,  Charlotte- 
town,  and  I'ietou.  The  Cliiiryihly  runs  semi-weekly  from  Montreal  to  Terchtres, 
C'lntreco  ir,  Sorel,St.  Ours,  St.  Denis,  St.Antolne,St.  Charles,  St.  Marc.  St.  Illlalre, 
Beloeil,  Si  Matthias,  and  Chanibly  (90  M).  The  Three  Riverx  runs  s*  li-wcekly  to 
Vercheres,  Sorcl,  Masklnong<^,  Riviere  du  Loup  en  haiit,  Yamacli,  lie,  Port  St. 
Francis,  Champlain,  and  Three  Rivera.  The  Berthier  runs  semi-weekly  to  Repen- 
tlgny,  St.  Sulplce,  Lavaltrle,  Lanoralc,  and  Berthler.  The  Terre'ionne  runs  dally  to 
Bouchervllle,  Varennes,  Bout  de  Tlsle,  Lachenale,  L'Assomjition,  and  Terrebonne 
(24  M.).  Ferry  steamers  cross  the  river  at  frequent  intervals  to  La  Prairie,  St.  Lam- 
bert, and  Longucuil. 

Montreal,  the  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  "the  Queen 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  on  the  continent. 
It  is  situated  on  an  island  (at  tho  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers)  containing  197  square  miles,  and  which,  from  its  fertility, 
has  been  called  the  Garden  of  Canada.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  1^  M.  wide 
opposite  the  city,  and  the  river-front  is  lined  for  over  1  M.  with  lofty  and 
massive  walls,  quays,  and  terraces  of  gray  limestone,  unequalled  else- 
where in  the  world,  except  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St.  Petersburg.  The 
commercial  buildings  of  the  city  are  generally  of  stone,  in  plain  and  substan- 
tial architecture,  and  the  number  of  fine  public  buildings  is  very  large. 
Three  fourths  of  the  population  are  Catholics,  most  of  whom  are  French,  and 
the  bright  suburban  villages  are  almost  entirely  inhabited  by  Frencl.mcu. 


i:> 


€'s 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.      311 


nlso 


r> 


O 


AlMioupli  Montreal  Is  800  "S\.  from  tho  ?ca,  it  i*  tho  port  wliicli  rocoives  tho 
preutor  pit  of  the  importations  to  Cunadii;  nnd  its  nianufuoturinp  interests 
nre  extensive  and  important.  The  admirable  systems  of  railway  and 
steamboat  communication  of  wliich  Montreal  is  the  centre  have  made  it 
tho  comnKicial  emporium  of  the  North;  and  new  lines  of  trattic  and  in- 
ternal railways  are  being  built  from  year  to  year,  binding  all  the  St.  Law- 
rence counties  to  this  city.  Montreal  forms  tho  Metropolitical  See  of  tho 
Anglican  Church  in  Canada,  and  is  the  capital  of  a  Roman  Catholic  dio- 
cese. The  water-supply,  street-lamps,  paving,  and  fire  department  are 
similar  to  those  of  American  cities  of  the  first  nink. 

The  population  of  Montreal  was  107,225,  at  the  census  of  1871,  and  it 
now  probably  contains  160,000  inlKil)itants  (including  the  populations 
of  the  closely  connected  suburbs).  In  1870  its  assessed  valuation  was 
$47,679,000;  its  imports,  $25,680,814;  and  its  exports,  $19,100,413.  In  the 
same  year  602  vessels  arrived  hero  from  the  sea,  and  tho  customs  revenue 
was  $  4,128,052.  The  city  has  19  banks,  02  churches,  more  than  30  news- 
papers and  magazines  (in  English  and  French),  and  scores  o^  societies  of 
freemasons,  antiquarians,  sportsmen,  nnfl  cricket-players.  There  are 
numerous  charitable  and  benevolent  organizations,  6  building  associations, 
3  musical  clubs,  and  societies  for  the  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  French,  Ger- 
man, and  New-England  residents. 

The  Victoria  Square  is  a  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of  McGill 
O'ld  Great  St.  James  Sts.,  ornamented  with  a  founiain  and  a  bronze  statue 
01  Queen  Victoria.  On  its  S.  side  is  tho  elegant  Gothic  building  which 
pertains  to  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  the  oldest  society  of 
that  name  in  America.  On  the  lower  side  of  the  Square  are  the  stately 
Albert  Buildings,  devoted  to  commerce;  and  on  tho  N.  are  the  ruins  of  the 
great  Irish  headquarters,  St.  Patrick's  Hall. 

Passing  to  the  N.  E.  along  Oreat  St.  James  St.,  the  visitor  sees  many 
fine  stores,  and  the  attractive  buildings  of*  Molson's  Bantt  (of  Ohio  stone 
and  Scotch  granite),  the  Merchants'  Bank,  the  stately  new  *  Post-Office, 
and  other  symmetrical  ind  solidly  constructed  edifices.  This  street  is  the 
Broadway  of  Montreal.  St.  Peter  Sf.  runs  to  the  S.  E.  by  the  stately 
Caverhill  Buildings  (of  cut  limestone  in  Italian  Palazzo  architecture)  to 
St.  Paul  St.,  the  seat  of  an  extensive  wholesale  trade.  The  Central  We»- 
leyan  Church,  on  Great  St.  James  St.,  lias  a  fine  organ.  In  this  vicinity 
are  the  chief  hotels  of  the  city,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Ottawa. 

Opposite  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal 
(beyond  St.  Francois  Xavier  St.,  the  Wall  St.  of  Montreal)  the  Place 
d^Armes  is  seen.  This  square  was  so  named  because  it  was  the  parade- 
ground  of  Montgomery's  American  army  in  1775.  Here  is  the  lofty  front 
of  the  *  Churoli  of  Notre  Dame,  the  largest  church  on  the  continent, 
with  seats  for  8,000  persons  on  the  floor  and  2,000  in  the  galleries.  It  is 
255i  ft.  long  and  1444  ft.  wide,  and  has  a  chancel  window  of  stained  glass 


it 


•    I, 


\h:v 


312      Route  75. 


MONTKEAL. 


64  X  32  ft.  in  size.  The  interior  is  not  strikinp;,  nnd  the  pictures  nro  poor. 
There  nre  two  towers  on  tlic  front,  ench  220  ft.  higli,  nnd,  like  the  church, 
in  the  simplest  form  of  modiajviil  Gntliic  nrcliitccture.  One  tower  1ms  a 
chimo  of  bells,  nnd  in  the  other  hnngs  '*  Gros  Bourdon,"  the  largest  bell 
in  Americn,  weighing  nenrly  15  tons.  The  tower  is  generally  open  (fee  of 
25  c.  to  the  door-keeper),  and  nfTords  from  its  summit  n  noble  *  view  of 
the  city  nnd  its  environs  (especially  of  the  city  nnd  river,  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  nnd  the  islands).  The  suburbs  of  Laprairio,  Longueuil,  nnd  St. 
Lambert,  the  Lachino  Rapids,  nnd  the  blue  mountains  of  Vermont,  nro 
Been  from  this  point.  Alongside  the  church  is  the  nncient  Seminary  of 
St.  Sulpice,  on  the  site  of  the  Seminary  of  1657,  ns  the  church  is  nenr  the 
site  of  the  Notre  Dnme  of  1G71.  The  present  church  wns  built  in  1824-9, 
and  wns  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Telmesse  in  partihns.  Tlie  semi- 
nnry  consists  of  low  and  massive  buildings,  surroundei'  with  gardens  nnd 
court-ynrds  of  spotless  nontness.  It  has  24  priests  connected  witli  its 
various  works. 

"  I  soon  found  my  way  to  the  Church  of  Notre  Damn,    T  "  w  tb.xl  U  *  .^s;  of  great 

bJzc  and  signified  something Coming  fiom  tlie  hnrraltir,;  mcb  u    I  t.e  rattling 

carriages,  we  pushed  back  the  listed  door  of  this  church,  u.\i<1  fonutt  .'-irselves  in- 
stantly in  an  atmosphere  which  might  be  sacred  to  t.ioiigh.  n  <'♦  reliKiv..     f  one  had 

any It  was  a  great  cave  in  the  midst  of  a  city  :  ;>i  i  v.Ur.t  wen-  •  '^«j  altars  and 

the  tinsel  but  the  sparkling  stalnctics,  into  which  >ou  »=..Ari: i  .  •.  .  moment,  and 
where  the  still  atmosphere  and  the  sombre  light  disposed  to  serious  and  profitable 
thought  ?  Such  a  cave  at  hand,  which  you  can  enter  any  day,  is  worth  a  thousand 
of  our  churches  which  are  open  only  Sundays."  (Tuoreau.) 

Fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes  are  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  nnd  tho 
hall  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  Masons  of  Canada.  A  short  distance  to  the 
E.,  on  Notre  Dame  St.,  an  archway  on  the  r.  admits  one  to  the  extensive 
and  secluded  Convent  of  the  Black  Nuns  (founded  in  1657).  Farther  on, 
the  *  Court  House  is  seen  on  tho  1.,  —  a  stately  stone  building  in  Ionic 
architecture  (300  X  125  ft.),  back  of  which  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or 
Parade  Ground,  an  open  space  covering  50,000  square  yards,  and  ample 
enough  for  the  display  of  3,000  troops.  The  great  structure  fronting  across 
Craig  St.  was  built  for  the  Dominion  ^lilitary  School,  which  is  now  estab- 
lished nt  Kingston.  The  Museum  of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey  Is 
on  St.  Gabriel  St.,  opposite  the  Champ  de  Mars,  nnd  wns  founded  by  Sir 
William  Logan  It  contains  a  large  collection  of  ores,  building-stones,  rare 
minerals,  and  one  of  the  best  palaeontological  museums  in  America.  Tlie 
new  City  Hall  is  to  be  erected  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Champ  de  Mars.  Just 
beyond  the  Court  House  the  Jacques  Cartier  Square  opens  off  Notre  Damo 
St.,  and  is  encumbered  with  a  dilapidated  monument  to  Nelson.  The 
Jacques  Cartier  Normal  School  (in  the  ancient  French  government  build- 
ing) and  the  Institut  Canadien  (with  a  fine  library)  are  near  the  head  of 
this  square. 

By  the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  ^Bonsecours  Mar- 
ket may  be  visited.    This  market  is  unrivalled  in  America,  and  is  built 


:«r« 


!  nre  poor. 
10  church, 
'wcr  lifis  a 
rpcst  bell 
en  (fee  of 
*  view  of 

0  Victoria 
1,  nnd  Sf. 
mont,  are 
ninary  of 
i  near  the 

1  1824-9, 
rhc  pemi- 
rdens  and 
1  witli  its 


>.&;  of  great 
e  rattling 

rselvps  in- 
f  one  had 

altars  and 

ment,  and 
profitable 
thousand 

and  tlie 
ce  to  tlie 
xtensivo 
rther  on, 
in  Ionic 
y/ars,  or 
d  ample 
ig  across 
w  estab- 
urvey  Is 
1  by  Sir 
nes,  rnre 
a.    The 
s.    Just 
'e  Dame 
1.     The 
t  build- 
lead  of 

s  Mar- 
is built 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.      313 


^ 


^^ 


t\ 


of  stone,  in  qufisl-Doric  architecture,  at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  It  is  throe 
Rtorics  hiph,  has  a  lofty  dome,  and  presents  nn  imposinj;  front  to  tlio  river. 
The  curious  French  costumes  and  langUMj^o  of  tlic  country  people  wiio 
consre-^atc  here  on  market-days,  as  well  as  some  peculiarities  of  the  wares 
oflered  for  sale,  render  a  visit  very  interesting.  Alongside  of  the  market 
is  the  Bonsecours  Church  (accommodating  2,000  persons),  which  was  built 
in  1058.  A  short  distance  ijcyond  arc  the  extensive  Quebec-Gate  Barracks, 
on  Dalhousie  Square;  and  the  Victoria  Pier  makes  out  into  the  stream 
towards  St.  Helen's  Isle  (a  fortified  depot  of  ammunition  and  war  materiel), 
which  was  named  by  Champlain  in  honor  of  his  wife.  To  the  N.,  on 
Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Vigor  Garden,  with  a  small  conservatory  and 
several  fountains,  fronting  on  which  is  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  built 
of  ^lontreal  stone,  in  early  English  Gothic  architecture,  and  accommo- 
dating 4,000  persons.  N.  of  Trinity,  and  also  on  St.  Denis  St.,  is  St. 
James  Ciiurch  (Catholic),  in  the  pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich  stained 
glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dalhousie  Square,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  are  Mol- 
fion's  College  (abandoned)  and  St.  Thomas  Church  (Episcopal),  with  the 
great  buildings  of  Molson'a  brewery  and  the  Papineau  Market  and  Square 
(on  which  are  the  works  of  the  Canadian  Rubber  Co.)-  The  suburb  of 
llochelaga  (see  page  318)  is  about  1  M.  beyond  the  Papineau  Square. 

MoGill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria 
Square  to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in 
the  intersecting  St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  Buildings  are 
rich  and  massive,  and  just  beyond  is  St.  Ann's  Market,  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  lillgin  signed  the  obnoxious 
Rebellion  Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a  mob,  who  also  drove  the 
Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  the  building.  On  ac- 
count of  these  riots,  Montreal  was  decapitalized  the  same  year.  Com- 
missioners' St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  Market  and  the  elegant  Custom- 
House  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river-walls.  OttaAva  St.  leads  W. 
to  the  heavy  masonry  of  the  Lachine-Canal  Basins  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver-Hall  Hill  run  N.  from  Victoria  Square,  passing 
Zion  Church,  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The  armed 
congregation  repulsed  the  Catholic  assailants  twice,  and  then  the  troops 
restored  order,  40  men  having  been  killed  or  badly  wounded.  Just  above  is 
the  Baptist  Church,  overlooked  by  the  tall  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitari- 
an), with  St.  Andrew's  Presbyterian  Church  on  the  r.  A  few  steps  to  the 
r.,  Lagaucheti6re  St.  leads  to  St.  Patrick's  Church,  a  stately  Gothic  build- 
ing 240  X  90  ft.,  accommodating  5,000  persons,  and  adorned  with  a  spire 
225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow  lancet-windows  are 
filled  with  stained  glass.  Near  by,  on  Bleury  St.,  are  the  massive  stone 
buildings  of  St.  Mary's  College  (Jesuit;  9  professors)  and  the  ^Churoll 
of  the  Gcsti.    The  nave  of  the  church  (75  ft.  high)  is  bounded  by  rich 

1-: 


w. 


lit  fl 


•4 


rs  'i 


i 

r 

1 

IriMi 


1  ■■ 


n 


'i 


.  ,t 


31 4     Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


composite  columns;  and  the  tranpcpts  nre  144  ft.  long,  and  arc  adorned 
with  fine  frescos  in  chiaroscuro. 

Over  the  High  Altar  is  the  Crucifixion,  and  the  Adoration  of  th»  Spotless  Lan.b, 
abov*^  which  is  the  Nativity.  Against  the  cohimns  at  the  crossing  of  the  nave  and 
transepts  arc  statues  of  St  Mark  with  a  lion,  St.  Matthew  with  an  ox,  St.  Luke  with 
a  cliild,  and  St.  John  with  au  eagle  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  arc  frescos  of  St. 
Tlionias  Repentant,  the  Bleeding  Lamb,  and  the  Virgin  and  Child  amid  Angelic 
Choirs.  Medallions  along  the  nave  contain  portraits  of  eight  saints  of  tlie  Order  (f 
.Icsus.  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  tpinsept,  is  a  fres-co  of  the  Trinii\ , 
near  which  is  a  painting  of  St.  Aloysius  Goni».„a  receiving  his  first  communion  ftdni 
St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To  the  r.  is  a  fre.«co  of  St. 
Ignatius  Lojola  in  the  Grotto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  1.  is  Christ' m  Appearance  to 
him  near  Rome,  while  above  is  Christ  blessing  Little  Children.  Over  St.  Joseph's 
Altar,  in  the  r.  trau>-ept,  is  a  painting  of  the  Eternal  Father  :  on  the  r.  of  which  is 
another  picture,  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka  receiving  Communion  from  Angel.-*.  On  the 
1.  IS  a  fresco  of  the  Martyrdom  of  the  Jesuits  at  Nagasaki  (Japan) ;  on  the  r  is  tlio 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  Bobola,  in  Poland ;  and  above  is  the  Raising  of  Lazarus. 
Ou  the  ceiling  is  the  Uoly  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  VV.  on  St.  Catherine  St.,  one  soon  reaches  *  Christ 
Church  Cathedral,  the  best  representative  of  English  Gothic  architecture 
in  America.  It  is  built  cf  Montreal  and  Caen  stone,  and  is  112  ft.  long, 
and  100  ft.  wide  at  the  t''ansepts.  A  stately  stone  spire  springs  from  tiie 
intersection  of  the  navr  and  transepts,  and  attains  a  height  of  224  ft.  The 
choir  is  46  ft.  long,  is  paved  with  encaustic  tiles,  and  contains  a  line 
stained-glass  window.  On  either  side  are  elaborately  carved  stalls  lor 
the  clergy;  and  the  pointed  roof  of  the  nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  liy 
columns  of  Caen  stone  whose  capitals  are  carved  to  represent  Canadi;in 
plants.  In  front  of  the  cathedral  is  a  monument  to  Bishop  Fulford,  innl 
on  the  N.  is  a  quaint  octagonal  chapter-house,  where  the  diocesan  libniry 
is  kept.  The  residence  of  the  Lord  Bishop  (and  Metropolitan  of  Ciinndii) 
is  near  this  building.  One  square  E.  of  the  cathedral  (corner  of  CatlicMrt 
and  University  Sts.)  is  the  large  and  interesting  Natural-History  Museum, 
which  is  open  to  the  public  (fee,  25  c).  The  t^erricr  Collection  of  I'^gypti:  n 
Antiquities  and  the  cases  of  Canadian  birds  are  of  much  interest.  Farther 
out  on  St.  Catherine  St.  is  the  Crystal  Palace. 

McGill  University  is  about  ^  M.  from  the  cathedral,  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Royal.  It  was  endowed  in  1814  and  opened  in  1828,  and  has  fac- 
ulties of  Arts  (9  professors),  Medicine  (10  professors),  and  Law  (8  pro- 
fessors). The  Medical  School  is  N.  of  the  main  building,  and  the  museum 
is  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  University  is  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  J.  W. 
Dawson  (see  page  138),  and  is  the  most  flourishing  institution  of  the  kind 
in  Lower  Canada.  The  reservoir  for  the  water-supply  of  Montreal  is  back 
of  the  University,  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  has  a  capacity  of  15,000,000 
gallons.  The  water  is  taken  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  \\  SL  above  the 
Lachine  Rapids,  flows  for  6  M.  in  an  open  canal,  and  is  then  forced  up  to 
the  -eservoir  by  powerful  machinery.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  cily  inny 
be  obtained  from  this  terrace,  and  on  the  W.  is  Eavenscrafj,  the  mansidu 
of  Sir  Hugh  Allan. 


t^ 


< 


MONTREAL. 


Route 


01.3 


arc  adorned 


?potles8  Lamb, 
the  nave  ami 
St.  Luke  wifli 
;  freficos  of  !»t. 
amid  Aiigulic 
if  the  OrdiT  of 
3f  the  Trinity, 
[iiinunion  fidin 
a  froFco  of  St. 
Appearance  to 
.T  iSt.  Joseph's 
e  r.  of  whicli  is 
ngels.  On  the 
oil  tlie  r  is  Hic 
lug  of  Lazarus. 


3hes  *  Christ 

architecttiic 

i  112  ft.  long, 

ngs  from  the 

'224  ft.     The 

intains  a  fine 

red  stalls  for 

sustained  liy 

;nt  Canadian 

Fulford,  iiiul 

esan  lihrary 

n  of  Ciinada) 

of  Cathcart 

ory  Afuseviiiy 

\  of  Egyptian 

est.    Farther 

.  tlio  foot  of 

and  has  fac- 

Law  (8  pro- 

the  museum 

Df  Dr.  J.  W. 

1  of  the  kind 

treal  is  hack 

of  15,000,(100 

d.  above  the 

forced  up  to 

^he  city  may 

the  numsion 


>^ 


Oi 


The  *  Great  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice  and  the  Montreal  College  are  5 
JI.  S.  W.  of  the  University,  and  front  on  the  same  street  (Slierbro(d<e). 
They  occupy  a  portion  of  the  broad  ecclesiastical  domtnn  which  is  known 
as  the  Priests'  Farm.  The  incongi'uous  towers  in  front  of  the  main  build- 
ing porta  ned  to  the  ancien*  college  of  the  17th  century,  and  were  at  that 
time  loopholed  and  held  as  a  part  of  the  defences  of  the  town  against  the 
Iroquois  Indians.  The  Seminary  is  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholic 
priests,  and  has  4  professors  and  112  students.  The  Slontreal  College  is 
for  the  education  of  Canadian  youth,  and  has  10  ecclesiastics  for  profes- 
sors and  2G0  .students.  It  was  founded  in  1773  by  the  Sulpicians,  who  still 
remain  in  charge.  The  Seminary  chapel  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  the  gar- 
dens about  the  buildings  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  Canada.  Sherbrooko 
St.  and  the  environs  of  Mount  Royal  contain  many  elegant  residences. 

Dorc/i ester  St.  runs  S.  W.  from  Beaver- Hall  Squtirc,  soon  crossing  Uni- 
versity St.,  on  whose  r.  corners  are  the  High  School  and  the  St.  James 
Club.  This  street  leads,  on  the  1.,  to  the  Normal  and  Model  Schools;  and 
on  the  r.  to  the  Natural-History  Museum  and  the  Cathedral.  Dorchester 
St.  passes  on  by  St.  Paul's  Church  (1.  side)  and  the  Knox  Church  (r.side) 
to  Dominion  Square,  which  occupies  the  site  of  a  cemetery.  In  this 
vicinity  are  several  fine  churches, — the  Wesleyan  Methodist,  a  graceful 
building  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  the  American  Presbyterian,  an  ex- 
act copy  of  the  Park  Church  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  and  St.  George's  Church 
(Kpiscopal),  an  elegant  edifice  in  decorated  Gothic  architecture,  with  deep 
transepts,  costly  stained  windows,  a  timber  roof,  and  fine  school-buildings 
attached. 

The  new  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  is  being  erected  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Dorchester  and  Cemetery  Sts.  It  is  300  ft.  long  and  225  ft.  wide  at  the  tran- 
septs ;  anil  is  to  be  surmounted  by  a  stone  dome  250  ft.  high,  supported  on  4  piers 
(e;ich  of  which  are  3l)  ft.  thick)  and  32  Corinthian  columns.  4  minor  domes  a.-e  to 
surround  thi.s  noble  piece  of  architecture.  The  portico  is  to  re."»emble  that  of  the 
Roniaa  St.  Peter's,  surmouuted  also  by  colos.«al  statues  of  the  Apostles;  and  gives 
entrance  to  the  Tcstibule,  which  is  200  ft  long  and  30  ft.  wide.  The  interior  colon- 
nades support  lines  of  round  arches  ;  cin<l  there  are  20  minor  chapels.  The  exterior 
walls  are  very  ma,ssivo,  but  extremely  plain  and  rough.  This  building  is  to  .«upply 
the  place  of  the  dthcdral  on  St.  Denis  St.,  which  was  burned  in  1852.  The  design 
wa.s  conceived  by  Dishop  I5oiirget,  who  secured  the  land,  and  after  inspecting  numer- 
ous iilans  in  ditterent  styles,  determined  to  erect  a  cathedral  like  St.  Peter's  (though 
smaller).  The  architects  went  to  Rome  and  studied  the  Vatican  Basilica  carefully, 
and  the  work  was  soon  begun.  At  present  strenuous  exertions  are  being  made  by 
the  clergy,  monks,  and  nuns  to  procure  the  needful  funds  to  fiuish  the  building, 
and  it  is  expected  that  it  will  be  completed  by  the  year  1884. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  is  on  the  E.  of  Dominion  Square;  and  Cemetery  St. 
runs  thence  to  St.  Joseph's  Church  and  the  Bonaventurc  station  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Beyond  this  point  is  the  populous  St.  Ann's 
Ward,  toward  the  great  basins  of  the  Lachine  Canal. 

The  *  Gray  Nunnery  is  nearly  i  M.  S.  W.  of  Dominion  Square,  near 
Dorchester  St.,  and  occupies  an  immense  pile  of  stone  buildings.  Tiii^ 
convent  {Vlloidtal  Gen'ral  des  Soeurs  Crises)  was  founded  in  1747,  and 


T|.    .1.  I.      '!!'"<'■,.     ■■  I    ,,ii.^^p^^^^^M 


II- 


31    » 


,t. 


lit- 


,;^' 


'M 


'li"    I 


316      Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


contains  202  nuns,  116  on  mission,  42  novices  and  postulants,  and  over  600 
patients.  It  takes  care  of  aged  aufl  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans  and 
foundlings,  and  has  large  revenues  from  landed  estates.  Over  600  found- 
lings are  received  every  year,  of  whom  more  than  seven  eighths  die,  and 
the  remainder  are  kept  in  the  convent  until  they  reach  the  age  of  12  years. 
Opposite  the  nunnery  is  Mont  Ste.  Marie,  a  large  building  which  was 
erected  for  a  Baptist  college,  but  has  become  a  ladies'  boarding-school 
(169  students)  under  the  Congregational  Nuns  of  the  Black  Nunnery,  who 
have,  in  the  city,  57  schools  and  12,000  pupils.  This  order  was  founded 
by  Marguerite  Bourgoys  in  1659. 

The  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  N.  of  the  Gesu,  on  St.  Cath- 
erine St.,  and  has  also  an  infant  school  with  over  400  pupils.  The  chapel 
is  built  in  a  light  and  delicate  form  of  Romanesque  architecture,  and  is 
richly  decorated  and  frescoed.  On  the  same  square  are  the  handsome 
stone  buildings  of  the  Catholic  Commercial  Academy.  To  the  E,  (on 
Dorchester  St.)  is  the  General  Hospital,  with  150  beds;  the  Hospice  of  St. 
Vincent  de  Paul  (30  brethien)  and  the  Asile  de  la  Providence  (122  nuns) 
are  near  Labelle  St. ;  and  numerous  other  convents  and  asylums  are  found 
throughout  this  singular  city,  which  is  both  British  and  French,  commer- 
cial and  monastic,  progressive  and  medioeval,  —  combining  American  en- 
terprise with  English  solidity  and  French  ecclesiasticism. 

Th«  *  ndtel  Dieu  de  Ville  Marie  is  about  1  M.  N.  V/.  of  Great  St.  James 
St.,  1  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  in  Canada.  'I'hf  ciiapel  is  a  spa- 
cious iiall  over  which  is  a  dome  150  ft.  high,  frescoed  with  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Holy  Family.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1859,  and  is  con- 
ducted by  about  80  cloistered  nuns  of  the  Order  of  St.  Joseph.  There  are 
generally  about  500  persons  in  the  building,  consisting  of  the  nuns  and 
their  charges,  old  and  infirm  men  and  wom^n,  orphans,  and  about  200  sick 
people.  To  the  N.  is  the  populous  French  suburb  of  St.  .lean  Baptiste 
(5,000  inhabitants),  which  is  connected  with  the  city  by  horse-cars  on  St. 
Lawrence  Main  St. 

*  Mount  Boyal  is  S.  W.  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  and  W.  of  the  city,  and  is  a 
long  wooded  ridge  7-''»0  ft.  high.  The  larger  part  of  this  picturesque  emi- 
nence has  been  purchased  by  the  municipal  government,  and  is  being 
formed  into  a  public  park,  whose  natural  attractions  are  certainly  great. 
The  Mount  Royal  Cemetery  is  on  the  W.  slope,  and  is  locally  famous  for 
its  pleasant  drives  and  artistic  monuments  (among  which  are  those  of  the 
Molson  family). 

Point  St.  Charles  is  beyond  the  Lachine-Canal  Basins,  and  is  traversed 
by  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Near  the  Victoria  Bridge  is 
a  great  bowlder,  surrounded  by  a  railing,  commemorating  the  place  where 
were  buried  6,500  Irish  immigrants,  who  died  here  of  ship-fever  in  the 
summer  of  1847.  The  *  Victoria  Bridge  is  the  longest  and  most  costly 
bridge  in  Canada.    It  consists  of  23  spans  of  242  ft.  each  (the  central  one 


-^« 


/> 


t^ 


mmaaBSBs 


MONTREAL. 


Route 


4i>, 


Sl7 


and  over  600         ! 
orphans  and  ! 

r  600  found- 
iths  die,  and 
3  of  12  years.  | 

5  which  was 
irding-school 
unnery,  wlio       '^-0 
was  founded  | 


on  St.  Cath- 
The  chapel 
!cture,  and  is 
le  handsome 
o  the  E.  (on 
[ospice  of  St. 
re  (122  nnns) 
ims  are  found 
ich,  commer- 
\.merican  en- 

Pdt  St.  James 
pel  is  a  spa- 
enes  from  the 
9,  and  is  con- 
1.  There  are 
;hc  nuns  and 
bout  200  sick 
Tcnv.  Bnptiste 
sc-cars  on  St. 


J>m 


city,  and  is  a 
uresque  cmi- 
and  is  being 
rtainly  great.       %^ 
y  famous  for         ] 
those  of  the        | 

d  is  traversed  | 

3ria  Bridge  is  | 

3  place  Avhero  ' 
-fever  in  the 

\  most  costly  ' 
c  central  one 


830  ft.),  resting  on  24  piers  of  blue  limestone  masonry,  cemented  and  iron- 
riveted,  with  sharp  wedge  faces  to  the  down-current.  The  tubes  contain- 
ing the  track  are  19  X  16  ft.  and  the  bridge  is  approached  by  abutments 
2,600  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide,  which,  with  the  6,594  ft.  of  iron  tubing, 
makes  a  total  length  of  9,194  ft.  from  grade  to  grade  and  over  1^  M.  from 
shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  commenced  in  1854,  and  finished  in  1859; 
it  contains  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost  $  6,300,000. 
There  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  from  the  central  tube. 

In  the  early  autumn  of  1535  Jaques  Cartier  hoard,  from  the  Indians  of  Quebec, 
of  a  greater  town  far  up  the  river.  The  fearless  IBreton  chief  took  2  boats  and  50 
men,  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Iroquois  town  of  Hochelaga,  occupying 
tlie  present  site  of  the  metropolis  of  Canada.  "Before  them,  wrapped  in  forests 
painted  by  the  earlv  frosts,  rose  the  ridgy  back  of  the  Mountain  of  Montreal,  and 
below,  encompassed' with  itscornf -ilds,  lay  the  Indian  town,"  surn-unded  witli  triple 
paUsades  arranged  for  defence.  The  French  were  admitted  within  the  walls  and 
rested  on  the  great  public  square,  where  the  women  surrounded  th  ;m  in  curiosity, 
and  the  sick  and  maimed  were  brought  to  them  to  be  healed,  "  as  if  a  god  had  come 
down  among  them."  The  warriors  sat  in  grave  silence  w^Ue  he  read  aloud  tho 
Passion  of  our  Saviour  (though  they  understood  not  a  >vord) ;  thea  presents  were 
given  to  all  the  people,  and  the  French  trumpeters  sounded  a  warlike  melody.  Tho 
Indians  then  guided  their  guests  to  the  summit  of  the  adjacent  mountain,  whence 
scores  of  leagues  of  unbroken  forest  were  overlooked.  Cartit-r  gave  to  this  fair  emi- 
nence tlie  name  of  Mont  Royal,  whence  is  derived  the  present  name  of  the  city. 

In  1603  this  point  was  visited  by  the  noble  C'hamplain,  but  Ilcchelaga  had  disap- 
peared, and  only  a  few  wandering  Algonquins  could  bo  seen  in  the  country.  Tho 
Iroquois  of  the  great  town  had  been  driven  to  the  S.  by  the  powerful  Algonquins 
(such  is  the  Mohawk  tradition). 

At  a  later  day  a  tax-gatherer  of  Anjou  and  a  priest  of  Paris  heard  cel»=tial  voices, 
bidding  thpra  to  found  a  hospital  (Hotel  Dicu)  aud  a  college  of  priests  at  Mont 
Rr>yal,  and  the  voices  were  followed  by  apparitions  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Saviour, 
iilled  with  smred  zeal,  and  brought  together  by  a  singular  Bccident,  these  mtn  won 
several  nobles  of  France  to  aid  their  cause,  then  bought  the  Isle  of  Mont  Royal, 
and  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal.  With  the  Lordof  Maisonneuve 
and  45  associat-'S,  in  a  solemn  service  held  in  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  de  Paris, 
they  consecrn'^ed  the  island  to  the  Holy  Family  under  the  name  of"  Ville  Marie  do 
Montreal  "  (Feb.,  1641).  May  18, 1642,  Maisonneuve  and  his  people  landed  at  Mon- 
treal and  raised  an  altar,  before  which,  when  high  mass  was  concluded,  the  pric.t 
said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard-seed  that  shall  arise  and  grow  until  its  branches 
overshadow  the  land.  You  are  few,  but  your  wor'^-  is  the  work  of  God.  Hi.-  smile 
is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall  fill  the  land."  The  Hotel  Dicu  was  founded 
in  1647,  and  in  1657  the  Sulpicians  of  Paris  established  a  seminary  here.  In  1689, 
1,400  Iroquois  Indians  stormed  the  western  suburbs,  ami  killed  200  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  a  short  time  afterwards  Col.  Schuyler  destroyed  Montreal  with  troops 
froih  New  York,  leaving  only  the  citadel,  which  his  utmost  efforts  could  not  reduce. 
In  1760  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000  men  captured  the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  in- 
habitants, aud  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  11  redoubts  and  a  citadel.  In  1775 
Ethan  Allen  attacked  Montreal  with  u  '  '•"nl  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  and 
captured,  with  100  of  his  men.     Uen    '  t  sent  them  to  England  as  "  banditti," 

and  Allen  was  imprisoned  iu  Pendeu.  Oastle.  In  the  fall  of  1775  the  city  was 
taken  by  the  American  army  under  (Jon.  Montgomery.  With  the  close  of  the  War 
of  1812,  a  brisk  commerce  set  in,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821,  18,767 
inhabitants.  The  completion  of  tho  Orand  Trunk  llivilway  greatly  benefited  this 
place,  and  its  increase  lia.s  for  many  years  been  steady,  substantial,  '  .v^I  rapid.  In 
1832  the  cholera  destroyed  1,843  persons,  out  of  a  population  of  30,(,oO ;  a.id  in  1852 
a  large  part  of  tho  city  was  burned.  80  years  ago  vessels  of  over  3(»0  tons  could  not 
reach  Montreal,  but  a  ship-channel  has  been  cleared  by  the  exertions  of  the  mer- 
chants (headed  by  Sir  Hugh  Allan),  and  now  the  city  is  visited  regularly  by  ocean 
steamships  of  4,000  tons,  aud  by  the  largest  vessels  of  the  merchant-marine. 


"?7> 


'; 


ti' 


:i! 


■i     i 


,j 


■  ! 


..  i 


^  * 


: 
i 


318      RoiUcTG.        "AROUND  THE  MOUNTAIN." 

76.  The  Environs  of  Montreal. 

Montreal  is  situated  on  tho  S.  E.  side  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  which 
is  28  M.  long,  10  M.  wide,  and  70  M.  around.  It  is  divided  into  10  pur- 
islics,  and  is  composed  of  fertile  and  arable  soil,  supporting  a  dense  pop- 
ulation. The  favorite  drive  is  that  *  "Around  the  Mountain,"  aaistance 
of  9  M.  The  road  passes  out  by  tlie  Hotel  Dieu  and  through  the  suburb 
of  St.  Jv^an  Bapcistc  (wlience  a  road  runs  E.  to  the  limestone-quarries  at 
Cole  St.  Michel).  At  Mile-End  tlie  carriage  turns  to  the  1.  and  soon  passes 
tlie  avenue  wliich  leads  (to  the  1.)  to  tlie  Mount  Royal  Cemetery.  The 
road  ascends  to  higher  grades,  and  beaiitiful  views  open  on  the  N.  and  W., 
including  13  villages,  the  distant  shores  of  the  Isle  of  Jesus,  and  the  bright 
waters  of  Lake  St.  Louis  and  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains.  On  a  clear 
day  the  spires  of  the  Catholic  College  of  St.  Therese  are  seen,  several 
leagues  to  the  N.,  beyond  the  Rivi»;ro  aux  Chiens.  The  village  of  Culi'; 
(Its  Neiges  (three  inns)  has  an  antique  church,  and  is  occupied  by  1,200 
inhabitants.  It  was  first  settled  by  families  from  Cotd  des  Neiges  in 
Trance,  which  derived  its  name  from  a  legend  tliat  a  miraculous  cruci- 
form fall  of  snow  took  place  there  in  August,  marking  the  place  on  which 
a  pious  citizen  afterwards  built  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges. 
From  this  village  the  inter-mountain  road  leads  E.  to  Montreal.  On  the 
lower  slope  of  Mount  Royal  a  platform  has  been  built  on  the  wall  of  the 
Seminary  grounds,  from  which  a  beautiful  *view  is  obtained.  (The  usual 
charges  for  the  ride  around  the  mountain  are  $1.50  for  2-3  persons,  in  a 
cab,  or  $2  for  4  p'^rsons;  for  a  two-horse  carriage,  $4,  for  1-4  persons.) 

A  road  turns  to  the  r.  from  Cote  des  Neiges  and  passes  around  the  bold 
highlands  S.  of  Mount  Royal,  through  fair  rural  scenery.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Cvte  St.  Luc  it  reaches  Cote  St.  Antoine,  the  seat  of  the  fine 
building  and  grounds  formerly  known  as  Monklands,  when  the  home  of 
Governor-General  Lord  Elgin.  It  is  now  called  Villa  Maria,  and  is  occu- 
pied by  the  black  nuns  as  a  boarding-school.  There  are  25  sisters  and 
i-2  pupils,  most  of  whom  are  from  the  United  States.  Opposite  Villa 
Mn.'io  is  the  Church  of  St.  Luc.  The  short  road  from  this  point  to  tho 
city  ii-'  made  interesting  by  beautiful  views  and  fair  villas,  and  for  i  M. 
e  "ror  passing  the  toll-gate  it  skirts  the  Seminary  grounds. 

riie  Sault  au  Becollet  is  7  M.  W.  of  Montieal,  on  the  Rivil-re  des 
Pniiries,  and  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  rapids. 
Picnic  parties  occuj)/  the  forest-covered  Priests'  Island,  whence  the  de- 
scent of  rafts  may  be  observed.  The  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is 
beautifully  situated  amid  pleasant  grounds  near  the  river.  Opposite  Sault 
au  RecoUet  is  the  Isle  Jesus,  which  is  nearly  25  M.  long,  and  contains 
the  villages  of  St.  Martin,  St.  Rose  de  Lima,  and  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (near 
which  is  the  Provincial  Reformatory  Prison). 

Hoohelaga  is  at  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  Alontreal  horse-car  line,  and  is 


^ 


i/^i 


^3» 


J^ 


LACniXE  RAPIDS. 


Route  7G.      319 


nti'eul,  Avhicli 
into  10  pur- 
;  a  dense  pop- 
1,"  a  distance 
tIi  the  suburb 
ne-quarrics  at 
id  soon  passes 
metery.    The 
16  N.  and  W., 
ind  the  bright 
s.    On  a  clear 
seen,  several 
I'illage  of  Cole 
pied  by  1,200 
3es  Nelges  in 
Lculous  cvuci- 
lace  on  which 
e  des  Nelges. 
treal.     On  the 
lie  wall  of  the 
1.   (The  usual 
t  persons,  in  a 
-4  persons.) 
ound  the  bold 
Beyond  the 
it  of  the  fine 
II  the  home  of 
,,  and  is  occu- 
25  sisters  and 
)ppc.site  Villa 
s  point  to  the 
and  for  i  M. 

3  Eivitre  des 
•esque  rapids, 
hence  the  de- 
crcd  Heart  is 
)l>posite  Sault 
and  contains 
de  Paul  (near 

ir  line,  and  is 


I  the  point  where  the  Northern-Colonization  and  North-Shore  Rail'.i-ays  are 

to  terminate.    It  has  a  good  harbor  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  the  Rapid 
^  of  St.  ^hiry.     There  are  several  fine  villas  here,  and  the  *  Convent  of  the 

\  Sacred  Name  of  Jesus  and  Mary  1%  the  most  extensive  monastic  institu- 

tion in  Canada.     Hochelaga  is  3  M.  from  the  Victoria  Bridge;  and  3-4 
M.  farther  E.  is  Longue  Point,  near  which  the  late  Sir  George  E.  Cartier 
resided.     The  river-road  gives  views  of  Longueuil,   Boucherville,   and 
k^         Vareiines,  on  the  S.  shore. 

Lachine  (three  hotels)  is  9  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  is  a  favorite 
summer-resort  of  the  citizens.  The  river-road  is  very  picturesque;  and 
the  upper  road  runs  through  the  manufacturing  town  called  Tannery 
West,  which  has  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Visitors  usually  go  out  on  one 
road  and  return  by  the  other.  Lachine  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Louis, 
and  is  noted  for  its  annual  regattas.  It  was  so  named  by  Cluimplain  in 
1G13,  because  he  believed  that  beyond  the  rapids  the  river  led  to  China 
{La  Chine).  In  1689  the  Iroquois  Indians  destroyed  the  French  town  here, 
with  all  its  inhabitants,  200  of  whom  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  Opposite 
Lachine  is  the  populous  village  of  Caiujhnawaga,  inhabited  by  about  500 
of  the  orderly  and  indolent  descendants  of  the  Iroquois  Indians,  who  are 
governed  by  a  council  of  seven  chiefs. 

The  *  Lachine  Rapids  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  7  A.  m.  train  (at 
the  Bonaventure  station)  to  Lachine,  where  a  steamer  is  in  waiting,  by 
which  the  tourist  returns  through  the  rapids  to  Montreal.  After  taking  a 
pilot  from  Caughnawaga,  the  steamer  passes  out. 

"  Suddenly  a  scene  of  wild  grandeur  bursts  upon  the  eye.  Waves  are  lashed  into 
spray  and  into  breakers  of  a  thousand  forms  by  the  subuicrgec'  rocks  which  they 
are  diushed  against  in  tie  headlong  impetuosity  of  the  river.  Whirlpools  a  storm- 
lashed  sea,  the  chasn>  below  Niagara,  all  mingle  their  sublimity  in  a  single  rapid. 
Now  passing  with  lightning  speed  within  a  few  yards  of  rocks,  which,  did  your  ves- 
sel but  touch  them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  utter  wreck  before  the  crash  could 
sound  upon  the  ear ;  did  she  even  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  course,  — if  her 
head  were  not  kept  straight  with  the  course  of  the  mpid,  —  she  would  be  instantly 
submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.  Before  us  is  an  absolute  i)rccipicc  of  waters  ; 
on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalancht  s,  are  thrown  hish  into  the  air. 
Ere  we  can  take  a  glance  at  the  scene,  the  boat  descends  the  wall  of  waves  and  foam 
like  a  bird,  and  in  a  second  afterwards  you  arc  floating  on  the  calm,  unruffled  bosom 
of  '  below  the  rapids.'  " 

The  steamer  then  passes  under  the  central  arch  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  (see  page 
31i)),  and  opens  an  imposing  panoramic  *view  of  the  city.  (Tickets  for  the  round- 
trip  cost  50  c. ;  and  the  tourist  gets  back  to  Montreal  about  9.30  a.  m  ) 

The  Belceil  Mountain  may  be  visited  in  a  day  by  taking  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  to  Beloeil  (22  M.),  whence  the  mountain  is  easily  n-  ■>     led, 
passing  a  pretty  little  lake.    On  this  peak  (1,400  ft.  above  tL  ot.  Law- 
rence) the  Bishop  of  Nancy  erected  an  oratory  surmounted  by  a  huge  tin- 
4         covered  cross  which  was  visible  for  over  30  M.  The  cross  was  blown  down, 
;         several  years  ago.   The  *view  from  Beloeil  includes  a  radius  of  60  ;M.  over 
the  fertile  and  thickly  settled  ))lains  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley,  with  the 
•6»        blue  mountains  of  Vermont  far  aw^y  in  the  S.  K.  The  Boucherville  Moun- 
^        tain  I?,  reached  from  St.  Bruno,  a  station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 


«> 


') 


In'.;  '■ 


i . 


n^'.     I 


^1 


320      r.oide  76. 


OTTAWA. 


and  commands  fine  views.  There  nre  10  lakes  on  this  ridge,  one  of  which, 
the  Manw  Lake,  is  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  towers  of  Notre  Dame, 
in  Montreal. 

St.  Anne  {du  Bout  de  Vlsle)  is  21  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  may  bo 
reached  in  an  hour  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  It  is  a  village  of  1,000 
inhabitants,  with  two  inns,  and  has  an  ancient  church  which  is  much 
revered  by  the  Canadian  boatmen  ard  voyageurs.  Manj'  of  the  people  of 
Jlontrcal  visit  this  place  during  the  summer.  The  village  is  at  some  dls-  --r^ 
tance  from  the  railway,  between  Lake  St.  Louis  (of  the  St.  Lawrence)  and 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains  (of  the  Ottawa  River).  The  Ottawa  is 
here  crossed  by  a  fine  railway-bridge,  resting  on  16  stone  piers;  and  the 
famous  Rapids  of  St.  Anne  are  flanked  by  a  ianal.  Here  Tom  Moore 
wrote  his  Canadian  Boat-Song,  beginning:  — 

*'  Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 

Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time. 

Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim 

We'll  sing  at  St.  Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
How,  brothers,  row  ;  the  stream  runs  fast, 
Tlie  Rapids  arc  near,  and  the  daylight 's  past. 

"  Uttawa's  tide  !  this  trembling  moon 

Shall  see  us  float  o'er  thy  surges  soon. 

Saint  of  this  green  isle  !  hear  our  prayers  ; 

O,  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  favoring  airs  ! 

Blow,  breezes,  blow ;  the  stream  runs  fast,  ^^ 

The  liapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight 's  past." 

Steamers  run  daily  up  the  Ottawa  River  to  Ottawa  (Russell  Hotel),  the  capital 
of  Canada.  The  Canadian  **  Parliament  House  is  situated  on  a  lofty  bluff 
over  the  Ottawa  Ilivcr,  and  is  the  finest  specimen  of  Italian  Gothic  architecture  in 
America  or  the  world.  The  great  *  Victoria  Tower  in  the  centre  of  the  fagade  is  im- 
posing in  its  proportions  ;  and  the  polygonal  structure  of  the  Dominion  Library  is  in 
the  rear  of  the  buildings.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Commons  ura 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  are  adorned  with  stained-glass  windows  and  marble  columns. 
In  the  Senate  is  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  and  near  the  vice-regal  throne  are  busts 
of  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales.  The  departmental  buildings  which  flank  the 
Parliament  House  are  stately  structures,  in  harmonious  architecture,  and  of  the 
same  kinds  of  stone.  The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  and  the  nunneries  of  the  lower 
town  are  interesting ;  also  the  new  churches  of  the  middle  town  (which,  like  the 
rest  of  the  city,  is  still  undergoing  a  formative  process).  The  **Cliauclier« 
Falls  arc  just  above  the  city,  where  the  broad  Ottawa  River  plunges  down  over 
long  and  ragged  ledges.  In  this  vicinity  are  immense  lumber-yards,  with  the  con- 
nected industries  which  support  the  French  Canadians,  who  form  the  majority  of 
the  citizens  here.  S.  of  the  city  are  the  pretty  liideau  Falls.  Steamers  depart  fre- 
quently for  Montreal,  and  for  the  remote  forests  of  the  N.  ^ 


The  river  and  city  of  Ottawa  are  fully  described  in  the  companion  to 
this  hand-book,  Osgood's  Middle  States  ("with  the  Northern  FrontlcM- 
from  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal;  also,  Baltimore,  Washington,  and  North- 
ern Virginia"),  which  was  published  in  1874  and  revised  in  1875.  It  also 
includes  descriptions  of  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario,  Lake 
Champlain  and  Lake  George,  and  the  routes  from  New  York  to  Montreal. 

Osgood's  New  England  contains  also  descriptions  of  Northern  Vermont 
and  New  Hampshire,  and  the  routes  between  Boston  and  Montreal  or  Que- 
bec (published  in  1873,  and  revised  in  1874  and  1875). 


)ne  of  which, 
Notre  Dame, 


and  may  be 
llage  of  1,000 
lich  is  much 
the  people  of 

at  some  dis- 
iwrence)  and 
lie  Ottawa  is 
ers;  and  the 

Tom  Moore 


INDEX 


tel),  the  capital 
n  a  lofty  bluff 
architecture  in 
le  fagade  is  im- 
ni  Library  is  in 
f  Commons  are 
arble  columns, 
ironc  are  busts 
^hich  flank  tlio 
re,  and  of  the 
es  of  the  lower 
which,  like  tlie 
*CliaucHere 
igee  down  over 
,  with  the  con- 
he  majority  of 
lers  depart  fre- 


lompanion  to 
lern  Frontier 
I,  and  North- 
L875.  It  also 
)ntario,  Lake 
to  Montreal, 
ern  Vermont 
treal  or  Qiie- 


■■^■S 


«:  » 


1^ 


^ 


Abattis,  P.  Q.  292. 
Advocate  Harbor  103,  80. 
Agulquac  River  54. 
Ainslie  Glen  1(57,  169. 
Albert  Bridge,  C.  B.  154. 
Albert  Mines,  N.  B.  72. 
Alberton,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
Albion  Mines,  N.  S.  136. 
Aldouin  Kivcr,  60. 
Alemek  Bay,  N.  B.  63. 
Alexander  Point  63. 
Alexis  lllver225. 
Allagash  River,  Me.  58. 
Allandale,  N.  B.  52. 
Alright  Id.  184. 
Alston  Point,  N.  B.  65. 
Amherst,  N.  S.  78,  74. 
Amherst  Id.  183. 
Ancienne  Lorette  281,  279. 
Andover,  N.  B.  54. 
Ange  Gardien,  P.  Q.  283. 
Annandale,  P.  E.  I.  182. 
Annapolis  Basin,  N.  S.  84. 
Annapolis  Royal  85. 
Annapolis  Valley  88. 
Anticosti  234. 
Antigonish,  N.  S.  138. 
Apohaqui,  N.  B.  71,  48. 
Apple  River,  N.  S.  80. 
Apsev  Cove,  N.  F.  210. 
Aquafort,  N.  F.  198. 
Ardoise  Mt.,N.  S.  93. 
Argentonay,  P.  Q.  290. 
Argyle,  N.  S.  116,  125. 
Arichat,  C.  B.  145. 
Arisaig,  N.  S.  139. 
Aroostook  Valley,  Me.  55. 
Arthurette,  N.  B.  54. 
Aspotogon  Mt.,  N.  S.  127. 
Aspy  Bay,  G.  B.  160. 
Athol,  N.  B.  80. 
Atlantic  Cove,  C.  B.  160. 
Aulac,  N.  B.  74. 
Avalon,  N.  F.  198,  209. 
Avonport,  N.  S.  91. 
Aylesford,  N.  S.  89. 
Aylestbrd  Lakes  90.       * 

BaccaUeu  Id. ,  N.F.  201 ,  205, 
14* 


Baccaro  Point,  N  S.  123. 
Baddeck,  C.  B.  162. 
Baddeck  River,  167. 
Bagotville,  P.  Q.  3l>2. 
Bale  des  Rochers,  P.  Q.  295. 
Bale  St.  Paul,  P.  Q.  292. 
Bale  Verte,  N   S.  74. 
Ballard  Bank,  The  199. 
Ballyhaly  Bog,  N,  F.  195. 
Bangor,  Me.  39. 
Barachois,  N.  B.  59. 
Bareneed,  N.  F.  207. 
Barnaby  Id.,  P.  Q.  250. 
Karra,  Strait  of  164. 
Barr'd  Ids.,  N.  F.  210. 
Barrow,  N.  F.  214 
Barrow  Harbor  203. 
Barton,  N.  S.  112. 
Basin  ofMinas  101, 108. 
Basque  Harbor  183. 
Basque  Island  251. 
Bass  River  81. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65,  61. 
Batiscan,  P.  Q.  307. 
Batteau  Harbor  225. 
Battery  Point,  N.  B.  08. 
Battle  Id., Lab.  224, 200, 206. 
Bay,  Argyle,  N.  8. 116. 

Belleisle,  N.  B.  42. 

Bonavista,  N.  F.  203. 

Bonne,  Lab.  219. 

Bradore,  Lab.  230. 

Bulls,  N.  F.  194,  197. 

Canada,  N.  F.  221. 

Cardigan,  P.  E.  I.  175. 

Conception ,  N .  F .  195 ,  206. 

De  Grave,  N.  F,  207. 

DuVin,N.  B.  61. 

East,  C.  B.  147. 

Esquimaux,  Lab  230. 

Eternity,  P.  Q.  308. 

Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 

Garia.  N.  F.  21;') 

Ha  Ha,  P.  Q.  301. 

Hairs,  N.  F.211. 

Hermitage,  N.  V.  215. 

Hillsborough  174,  175. 

Ingornachoix  2lJ. 

Kenuebecasis  iCf. 


Bay,  Little,  N.  F.  215. 

Mahone,  N.  S.  118,  127. 

Miramichi,  N.  B.  61. 

Oak,  N.  B.  34. 

ofOhaleur64,  240. 

of  Despair  215. 

of  Fair  and  False  203. 

of  Fundy  31,83. 

of  Islands  218. 

ofNotreDame,  N.F.  210. 

ofSt.  John  219. 

Placcntia,  N.  F.  212. 

Richmond,  P.  E.  1.  178. 

Roberts,  N.F.  207. 

St.  Anne's,  C.  B.  158 

St.  George's,  N.  F.  217. 

St.  John's,  P.  Q  304. 

St.  Margaret's  12(5,  118. 

St.  Mary's  112,  213. 

Sandwich,  Lab.  225. 

Trinity,  N.  F.  208,  201. 

Vcrd,  N.  F.  201,  208. 

White,  N.  F  221. 
Beach,  The  206. 
Bear  Cove  93. 
Bear  Point  143. 
Bear  River  85. 
Beaubair's  Id.,  N.  B.  63. 
Beauliou,  P.  Q  289. 
Beaumont,  P.  Q.  254. 
Beauport,  P.  Q.  27(5. 
Beaver  Bank,  N.  S.  93 
Beaver  Harbor,  C.  H.  162. 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  B.  31 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  S.  132. 
Beaver  River  114. 
Becancour,  P.  Q.  307. 
BedequeBav    '».  E.  I.  174 
Bedford  Basin,  N.  S  lOo. 
Bellechasse  Id.  254. 
Belledune,  N.  B,  (5i3. 
Belle  Isle  220,  200. 
Bellei.*le  Bay,  N.  B.  42. 
Bell  Isle,  N.  F.  221. 
Belleorem,  N.  F.  214. 
Bellivcau  Cove,  N.  S.  112. 
Bellivoau  Village  73. 
BelniiilMt..  P.  d  319. 
Beuaeadie  Poiut  lti5. 

U 


I 


1 
1 


:      1 


322 


Benmore  280. 
Beraiiiiis  Uiver  233. 
Bcrtliier  en  has  'AM. 
Berthier  en  haul  au8. 
Berwick,  N.  S.W. 
Bic  Id.,l>.  Q.  251. 
Big  Loran,  (!.  B.  \rA. 
Big  Tancook  M.  128. 
Biquctte,  P.  Q.  251. 
Birch  Point  (54. 
Birclitown.N,  S.  121. 
Bird  Island  Cove  2U2. 
Bird  Isles  184. 
Bird  Hock  161. 
Black  Bay  228. 
Black  Brook  Gl. 
Blackhead  1<J6. 
Blackhead  Cove  210. 
Black  Point,  N.  8. 122. 
Black  River,  N.  F.  212. 
Black  llivcr,  P.  Q.  295. 
Blancherotte,  0.  B.  147. 
Blanc  Sablon,  Lab  229. 
Blandford,  N.  B.  27. 
Blind  Lake,  N.  S.  126. 
Bliss  Id.,N.  B.  31. 
Blissvillc,  N.  B.  4i). 
Blockhouse  Mines  153. 
Blomidon,  Cape  102, 103. 
Bloody  Bay,  N.  F.  203. 
Bloody  Bridge  79 
Bloody  Brook,  N.  S.  89. 
Blow-uie-Down  Head  207. 
BlueMts.,N.  8.  90,115. 
Blue  Pinion,  N.  F.  214. 
Blue  Rocks,  J< .  S.  118. 
Boar's  Back,  N.  S.  82. 
Boar's  Head,  N.B.  40. 
Boie.stown,  N.  B.  47,  62. 
Boisdale  102. 
Bonami  Point  67. 
Bonaparte  Lake  36. 
Bonaventure  Id.  243. 
Bonavista  Bay,  N.  F.  203. 
Bonhonime,  Le  307. 
Bonne  Bay  219. 
Bonne  Esperance  Bay  230. 
Bonnv,  Jjih.  230. 
Bon  Portajie  Id.  124. 
Bonshaw,  P.  E.  I.  174. 
Bothwoll,  P.  E  I.  1S2. 
Bouchcrville,  P.  Q.  309. 
Boularderie,  C.  R.  161. 
Bout  de  risle  308. 
Bradford'.'^  Cove  29. 
Bradore  Ray,  Lab.  230. 
Brae,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
Braha,  N.  F  221. 
Branch,  N.  F.  212. 
Brandies,  The  201. 
Brandv  Pots  252,  296. 
Bras  d"Or,  The  161. 
Breton,  Cape  149,  154. 
Bridgeport,  C.  B.  152. 


INDEX. 


Bridgetown,  N.  S.  88. 
Rridgeton,  P.  E.  I.  182. 
Rridgewater  128, 119. 
Rrijig's  Corner  49. 
Rrighton,N.  8.  112. 
Rrigus,  N.  F.  207. 
Rristol,  N.  B.  51. 
Broad  Cove,  N.  R.  29. 
Rroad  Cove,  N.  F.  203. 
Rroad  Cove,  N.  8.  120. 
Rroad  Cove  Intervale  169. 
Rrookfield,  N.  8.  82, 130. 
Rrooklyn,  N.  8.  93. 
Rrookvale,  N.  B.  48. 
Rroyle  Harbor  197. 
Rrucker's  Hill  26. 
Rrule  Harbor  81. 
Rrunet  Id.  214. 
Rryant's  Cove  207. 
Ructouche,N.  B.  59. 
Bull  Arm,  N.  F.  209. 
Rull  Moose  Hill  41. 
Rurgeo,  N.  F.  215. 
Rurgoyne's  i  ^rry  51. 
Rurin,  N.  F.  114,  212. 
RurlingtoD,  N.  8.  93. 
Rurnt  Church  62,  63. 
Rurnt  Head  207. 
Burnt  Ujdge  202. 
Rurton,  N.  B.  43. 
Burying  Place  211. 
Butter  PotB,  Tljo  199. 

Cacouna,  V.  Q.  296, 262. 
Calais,  Me.  35. 
Caledonia  Comer  130. 
Calliere,  P.  Q.  295. 
Calvaire,  Miq.  185. 
Calvaire,  P.  Q  306. 
Cambridge,  N.  R.  42. 
Cambriol,  N.  F.  214. 
Campbell  River  55. 
Campbellton,  N.  B.  68. 
Camille,  Mt.  249. 
Campobello  Id.  25. 
Canaan  River  72. 
Canada  Bay  221. 
Canada  Creek  90. 
Canning,  N.  B.  43. 
Canning,  N.  8.  91. 
Canso  142. 
Canterbury  37,  52. 
Cap  a  I'Aigle  204. 

au  Corbcau  292. 

de  la  Magilelaine  307. 

de  Mcnle  184. 

Rouge  281. 

St.  Jgnace  253. 
Cape  Alright  184. 

Anguille,  N.  F.  217. 

Ballard,  N.  F.  213. 

Bauld,  N.  F.  220. 

Bear  175,  181. 

Bloniidon,91, 102, 103. 


Cape  Bluff,  Lab.  225. 
Breton,  149, 154. 
Broyle,  N.  F.  197. 
Canso,  N.  8.  134,  142, 
Chapeau  Rouge  214, 189. 
Chatte,  P.  (i.  249. 
Chignecto,  N.  8.  104. 
Cove,  N.  S.  114. 
Cove,  P.  Q.  241. 
Colombier,  P.  Q.  233. 
Cornell  le,  294. 
Dauphin  158,  161. 
Desolation  22(3. 
Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Diable,  P.  Q.  252. 
d'Or,  N.  S.  103. 
East,  P.  Q.  301. 
Egmont,  P.  E.L  174,179. 
English,  N.  F.  213. 
Enrage,  N.  B.  72. 
Eternity,  P.  Q.  303. 
Fogo,N.F.  204,210. 
Fourchu,  N.  8.  125. 
Fre«'ls,  N.  F.  203,  213. 
Uaspc,  P  Q.  246. 
George,  P.  Q.  304. 
Goose  294. 
Grand  Bank  214. 
Gribaune291. 
Jourimain  59,  73 
Kildare  180. 
Labaie  292. 
Lahave, N.  S.  120. 
La  Ilune  215. 
Largent  202. 
Mabou,  C.  B.  168. 
Magdelaine  248. 
Maillard  292. 
Marangouin  73. 
Morien,  C.  B.  153. 
Negro,  N.  S.  122. 
Norman,  N.  F.  220. 
North,  C.  R.  160. 
Perry,  C.  R.  153. 
Pine,  N.  F.  21,3. 
Porcupine,  N.  8. 144. 
Race,N.  F  199,  189. 
Ray,  N.  F.  217,  21(5. 
Ilhumore,  C.  R.  147. 
Ridge,  N.  F.  203. 
Rose  way,  N.  8.  121. 
Rosier  247,  246. 
Rouge  291. 
Sable,  N.  8. 123. 
St.  Anne  249. 
St.  Frands201,225,  801. 
St.  George  218 
St.  Lawrence  160, 170. 
St.  Michael  225. 
St.  Nicliolas  2a3. 
Sambro  118,  93. 
Smoky,  C.  B.  1.09. 
Spear,  N.  F.  IhO,  106, 
Spencer  104,  83. 


ab.  225. 
),  154. 
V.  li)7. 
:^.  134, 142. 
out,'o  214, 189. 
Q.  249. 
N.  S.  104. 
.114. 
.  241. 
,  1'.  Q.  233. 

m. 

58,  IGl. 
220. 

.  Q.  241. 
Q.  252. 
.  103. 
.301. 

'.E.  1. 174,179. 
f.  V.  213. 
.  B.  72. 
P.  Q.  303. 
j\  204,  210. 
N.  S.  125. 
F.  203,  213. 
Q.  24(5. 
.  Q.  304. 

ilk  214. 
291. 
1  59,  73. 

2. 

.  S.  120. 
215. 
02. 

B.  1G8. 
le  248. 
292. 
lin  73. 

B.  153. 
S.  122. 

N.  F.  220. 

B.  100. 
B.  153. 

.213. 

.,  N.S.144. 
V  199,  189. 
217,  21(i. 

C.  B.  147. 
F.  203. 

N.  S.  121. 
246. 

S.  123. 

249. 

>«  201,  225,  301. 

d218 

nee  160, 170. 

el  225. 

las  2a3. 

18,  93. 

.  B.  159. 

F.  1S9, 196. 

04,  83. 


J 


Cnpc  Pplit,  N.  S.  104. 

Touruiente  287,  253. 

Tounneiitine  59,  73,  174. 

Travernc  174. 

Trinity,  P.  Q.  303. 

Try  on,  P.  E.  1.  178. 

Yii'toria,  P.  Q.  304. 

Wc.^it  302. 

"Whittle,  Lab.  230. 

Wolfe  179. 
Caplin  Cove  198. 
Caraquette  66,  62, 
Carbonear,  N.  F.  208. 
Cardigan,  N.  B.  50. 
Cardigan,  P.  E.  I.  181. 
Caribacon  145. 
Caribou  Id.  175,  224. 
Caribou  Plain.**  80. 
Caribou  Point  233. 
Carleton,  N.  B.  24. 
Carlcton,  P.  Q.  239. 
Carrousel  Id.  233. 
Cascai)ediac  Bay  240. 
(;a.scunip<'c  180. 
Castle  Id.,  I.ab.  227. 
Catalina,  N.  F.  201. 
Catalogue,  C.  B.  154. 
Cataracouy  280. 
Cat  Cove  221. 
Caughnawaga  319. 
Cavendish,  P.  E.  1. 178. 
Caverne  de  Bontemps  290. 
Cawec  Ids.  233. 
Central  Falmouth  91. 
Centre  Hill  209. 
Chaleur,  Bay  of,  64,240. 
Chamcook  Mt.  33. 
Cham  plain,  P.  Q.  307. 
Chance  Harbor  31. 
Change  Ids.  205,  210. 
Channel,  N.  F.  216. 
Chapel  Id.,  C.  B.  147. 
Charlesbourg,  P.  Q.  279. 
Charlottetown.P.  E.  1.175. 
Chateau  Bay,  T^b.  227. 
Chateau  Beilevue  287. 
Chateau  Bigot  280. 
Chateau  Richer  284. 
Chatham,  N.  B.  61,  66. 
Chaudiere  Falls  282. 
Chebucto  Head  93. 
Chedabucto  Bay  143. 
Chester,  N.  S.  127,90. 
Cheticamp,  C.  B.  170. 
Cheticamp,  N.  S.  114. 
Chezzetcook.N.  S.  131. 
Chicoutiuii,  P.  Q.  300. 
Chignecto,  Cape,  104. 
Chignecto  Peninsula  79. 
Chimney  Tickle  227. 
Chiputneticook  Lalces,N.  B 

38,  40. 
Chivirie  93, 102, 106. 
Chouse  Brook  221. 


INDEX. 


ribouxlds.  161. 
("lairvaux,  I'   (i.  292. 
Clare,  N.S.  113. 
Clarendon,  N.  B.  38. 
Clementsport,  N.  S.  85. 
Cleneutsvale  85. 
Clifton,  N.  B.  66,  71. 
Clode  Sound  203. 
(Moridornio  248. 
Clouds,  The,  221. 
Clyde  River,  N.  S.  124. 
Coacoeiio  River  231. 
CobeiiuidMt'!.,  N.  S.  80. 
Cocagne,  N.  B.  59. 
Colebrooke,  N.  B.  55. 
Cole's  Id.  N.  B.  47. 
Colinet,  N.  F.  213. 
Columbe  215 
Conception  Bay  195,  206. 
Concho,  N.  F.  221. 
(^ontrecoeur,  P.  Q.  308. 
Corbin.N.  F.  214. 
Cornwallis  Valley,  N.  S.  90, 

103, 107. 
Corny  Beach  243. 
Cote' deBeaupre,  283. 

des  Neiges  318. 

St.  Antoinc  318. 
■  St.  Luc  318. 

St.  Michel  318. 
Cottel's  Id.  203. 
Coudres,  Isle  aux  298. 
Country  Harbor  183. 
Covehead,P.  E  I.  181. 
Cow  Bay  101,150,153. 
Cox'8  Point  49. 
Crabb's  Brook  217. 
Crane  Id.,  P.  Q.  253. 
Crapaud,  P.  E.  1.  174, 
Creignish  168. 
Croque,  N.  F.  221. 
Cross  Id.,  N.  S.  118. 
Cumberland  Bav  49. 
Cumberland  IlaVbor  230. 
Cupids,  N.  F.  207. 

Dalhousie,  N.  B.  67. 
Dalibaire,  P.  Q.  249. 
Dark  Cove,  80. 
Dartmouth,  N.  S.  101. 
Dauphinev's  Cove  126. 
Davis  Strait  226. 
Dead  Ids.  216,  225. 
Dcadman's  Isle  184. 
Debec  Junction  37. 
Debert  80,  105. 
Deep  Cove  127. 
Deerfield,  N.  S  115. 
Deer  Harbor  209. 
Deer  Isle,  N.  B.  25. 
Deer  Lai  e  .37. 
Deer  Pond  219. 
Demoiselle  Hill  1S3. 
Denys  River,  C.  B.  165. 


323 


Dc  Sable  174. 
Descente  des  Fcmmes  302. 
Desehanibault  3(i6. 
D'l'iscous.'ie,  C.  B.  145. 
Despair,  Bay  of.  215. 
Despair,  Cape,  241. 
Devil  Id.  93. 
Devil's  Back,N.  B.  41. 
Devil's  (ioose-Pasture  90. 
Devil's  Head  34. 
Diablo  Bay  228. 
Digbv,  N.  S.  84. 
Digby  Neck  116. 
Dipper  Harbor  31. 
Distress  Cove  212. 
Dodding  Head  214. 
Dollannan  Bank  202. 
D'Or,  Cape,  N.  S.  103. 
Dorchester,  N.  B.  73. 
Doucet's  Id.  N.  B.  34. 
Douglas  Harbor  49. 
Douglastown,  N.  B.  02. 
Douglastown,  P.  Q.  244. 
Douglas  Valley  38. 
Dumfries,  N.  B.  52. 
Dundas,  N.  B.  59. 
Dundas,  P.  E.  I.  182. 
Dunk  River  174. 

Earltown,N.  S.  136. 
East  Bay  147, 165,  214. 
Eastern  Passage  93. 
F:ast  Point  182. 
Eastport,  Me.  26. 
East  River  126,  225. 
Eboulements,  Les,  294. 
Echo  Lake  131. 
Economy  Point  1G5,  80. 
Ecureuils,  Les,  306. 
Eddy  Point  143. 
Edniundston,  N.  B.  57. 
Edoobekv.k,  C.  B.  147. 
Kel  Brook  30. 
Egg  Ids.,  Lab.  233. 
EkumSekum,  N.  S.  132. 
Ellershouse,  N.  S.  93. 
Elliot  River  174. 
Elmsdale,  N.  «.  82. 
Elysian  Fields,  N.  S.  79. 
Enfield,  N.  S.  82. 
English  Harbor  201. 
English  Harbor  West  214. 
English  Point  233. 
Englishtown,  C.  B.  158. 
Enniskillen,  N.  B.  38. 
Entry  Id.  184. 
Escasoni,  C.  B.  148. 
Escuminac  Point  61. 
Esquimaux  Bay  230,  244. 
Eternity  Bay  303. 
Exploits  Id.  205,  210. 
Exploits,  River  of  210. 
Factory  Dale,  N   S.  89. 
Fairville,  N.  B.  37. 


"7^^ 


32t 


INDEX. 


ill?     I 


'It'..- 


Fnirv  Lake,  N.  S.  130. 
Fiilkland,  N.  S.  i»0,  !t;j. 
l-'alls,  (MmudiiTf!  2S'2,  ,320. 

(Miicniitimi,  V.  (I.  300. 

(Iriiiid  r/),  t)t5. 

Grand,  N.  F.210. 

Orando-Mere  3()7. 

LorotU',  P.  Q.  278. 

Ma^iiKUiidiivic  .32. 

Maiiitousin  232. 

Montnioreiici  277. 

Nictuu,  N.  S  89. 

North  Uiver  105. 

I'ahincau,  N.  U.  66. 

Pokiok,  N.  B.  52. 

I'oUett  72. 

llideau,  Ont.  320. 

Uiviere  du  Loup  295. 

Ilivierc  du  Sud  2r)3. 

St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  286. 

Sault  i  la  Puce  284. 

Shawanepan  307. 

i<i.ssiboo,  N.  8.  112. 
Falmouth,  N.  S.  91 
Farniinj^ton,  N.  S.  89. 
Father  Point,  P.  Q.  250. 
Fcrguson'n  Cove  101. 
Fcruieusc,  N.  F.  198. 
Fern  Ledf^cs  24. 
Fcrryland,  N.  F.  198. 
Fish  Head  30. 
Five  Ills,  N.  S.  105,  80. 
Fla<rtt"s  Cove  29. 
FUuirant  Point  67. 
Flint  Id.,  C.  n.  150,1.53. 
Florencevillc,  N.  U.  53. 
Flower  Cove  219. 
Fogo,  N.  F.  204. 
FoMy  Pas.s,  N.  S.  80. 
Fonts,  The  48,  54. 
Foi-t  ISeaubassin  74,  78. 
Fori.  IJeausejour  74,  78. 
Fori,  Cumberland  74,  78. 
For:eau,  Lab.  228 
Fori  Fairfield,  Me.  54. 
Fort  Ingalls,  N.  B.  58. 
Fort  .)'aques  Cartier  306. 
Fort  Kent,  Me.  ,58. 
Fort  Law.ence  74,  78. 
Fort  Meductic,  N.  B.  52,  46. 
Fort  Nascopic,  Lab.  226. 
Fort  Norwest,  liab.  226. 
Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 
Fo-ster's  Cove  54. 
Fourchctto,  N.  F.  221. 
Fourehu,  0.  B.  147. 
Fox  Harbor,  N.  S.  103,81. 
Fox  ILirbor,  Lab.  224. 
Fox  Uiver  248. 
Framboi.se,  0.  B.  147. 
Frazer's  Head  104. 
Frederieton,  N.  B.  44. 
Frederic  ton  .Tunc.  38. 
French  Cross,  N.  S.  89. 


French  Fort  Creek  ISO. 
Frencli  Lake  4S. 
Frenelniian's  (!<)vc  214. 
Frencii  River  138. 
Frencli  .Shore,  The  216. 
French  Village  151. 
Frenchville,  Me.  57. 
Freshwater  Kay  203. 
Friar'.s  Face  2ll. 
Frozen  Ocean  130. 
Funk  Id.,  N.  F.  204. 

Gabarus  Bay  154, 149. 
Gagetown,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Gairloch.N.  .S.  130. 
Galantry  Head  185. 
Gambo  Ponds  203. 
Gander  Bay  210. 
(Jannet  Hock,  V.  B  29. 
G.nnet  Hock  184. 
Garia  Bav  215. 
Garnish,\.  F.  214. 
(iaspi-,  P.  Q.  244. 
Gaspereaux  Lake  90. 
(Jav"s  River,  N.S  82. 
Gentilly,  P.  Q.  307. 
George  Id.  179. 
George'.s  Id.,N.  S.  98. 
Georgetown, P.  F].l.  181,175. 
Gib.son,  N.  B.  49. 
Gilbert's  Cove  112. 
Glace  Bay  153, 150. 
Glengarry,  N.  S.  136. 
Goat  Id.,  N.  S.  85. 
Godbout,  Lab.  233. 
Golden ville,  N.  S.  133. 
Gold  Uiver  128. 
Gondola  Point  71. 
Gooseberry  Isles,  203. 
Goose  Id.  253. 
Gouffre,  Le  293. 
Gowrie  Mines  153. 
Grand  Ansc,  C.  B.  145. 
Grand  Anse,  N.  B.  66. 
Grand  l$anks,  The  199. 
Grand  Bay  40. 
Grand  Digue  145. 
Grande  Bale  302. 
Grande-Mere  Fall.«i  307. 
Grand  Falls,  Lab.  226. 
Grand  Falls,  N.  B.  55. 
Grand  Greve,  P.  Q.  244. 
Grand  Harbor  29. 
Grand  Lake  36,  48. 
Grand  Ijake  Stream  35. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grand  Narrows  164. 
Grand  Pond  218,  211. 
Grand  Pre  107,91,101. 
Grand  River,  C.  B.  147. 
Grand  River,  N.  B.  56. 
Grand  River  241. 
Grand-River  Lake  147. 
Grand  Uustico  178. 


Grnndy's  Brook,  215. 
(inint  Isle,  Me.  57. 
(»ranville,  N,  S.  80. 
(iroat  Bartibog  (il. 
(Jreat  Houle  2;}:}. 
Great  Bras  d'Or  161,  104. 
Great  ('odroy  217. 
Great  lla  Ha  Lake  ,302. 
(Jreat  Harbor  Dei 'p  221. 
(Jreat  Meccatina  230. 
Great  Miquclon  186. 
(ireat  Pabos  241. 
Great  Pond  248. 
Great  Pubnico  Lake  124. 
Great  St.  Lawrenct;  214. 
(Jreat  Shemogue  59. 
Great  Village  81. 
(Jrcen  Bav  211. 
(Jroenfield  130. 
Green  Harbor  209. 
Green  Ids  124,  214,  252. 
Greenly  Id.  229. 
(Jreen  River  57. 
(Jrcenspond,  N.  F.  203. 
Greenville  80. 
Greenwich  Hill  41. 
Grenville  Harbor  178. 
Griffin's  Cove  248. 
Griguet,  N.  F.221. 
(Jriinross,  N.  B.  42. 
Grindstone  Id.  183. 
Grondines,  P.  Q.  306. 
Grosse  Isle  254. 
Grosses  Coques  113. 
Gull  Rock  121. 
Out  of  Canso  142. 
Guysborough  133. 

Habitants  Bny  143. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  t».  Q.  301. 
Halifax,  N.  S   03. 

Admiralty  House  97. 

Cathedral  98. 

Citadel  96. 

D.ilhousie  Coll.  98. 

Gov't  House  98. 

Harbor  93. 

Ilortic.  G.ardens  98. 

Museum  96 

Parliament  Building  95. 

Provincial  Building  95. 

Queen's  Dockyard  97. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  96. 
Halifax,  P.  K.  I.  179. 
Hall's  Bay  211, 218. 
Hammond's  Plains  100. 
Hampton,  N.  B.  71. 
Hampton,  N.  S.  89. 
Il.antsport,  N.  S.  91,  101. 
Harbor  Briton  214. 
Harbor  Buffet  212. 
Il.arbor  Grace,  N.  F.  207. 
Ilarborville,  N.  S.  90. 
Hare  Bay,  N.  F.  221. 


J 


ironk,  215. 
Mo.  57. 
N.  S.  K6. 
ilioj;  C.l. 

d'Or  IGl,  1G4. 
oy  '217. 
la  Lake  302. 
M)r  l)i  rp  221. 
atina  2;i(». 
iclon  I8(i. 
)s  241. 
1  24H. 

iiico  Lake  124. 
iawreiHo  214. 
nogiit'  59. 
iHcHl. 
211. 

i;5(>. 

bor  209. 

124,  214,  252. 
I.  229. 
. .'  57. 

d,  N.  r.  203. 
80. 

Hill  41. 
[Iar»)or  178. 
ov(-  248. 
F.221. 
.  B.  42. 
c  Id.  183. 
,  P.  Q.  306. 
L'  254. 
)({Wis  113. 

121. 

iiso  142. 
igh  133. 

Biv  143. 
y,  i'.  Q.  301. 

I.  S  93. 

ty  House  97. 

al  98. 

D6. 

io  Coll.  98. 

ouse  98. 

93. 

Gardens  98. 

i9i} 

ent  Buildinj:  95. 

ial  Building  95. 

;  Dockyard  97. 

.  A.  96. 

►.  E.  I.  179. 

f 211,218. 

ra  Plains  100. 

,  N.  B.  71. 

,  N.S.  89. 

t.  N.  S.  91, 101. 

riton  214. 

uffet  212. 

race,  N.  P.  207. 

le,  N.  S.  90. 

,  N.  F.  221. 


H 


Harp  Id,  p.  Q.252. 
llarc'H  Kars  198. 
llaro's-Ik-ad  Ilill.x218. 
Harniouy,  P.  11.  I.  182. 
Harvey,  N.  B.  38. 
Harvey  Corner  72. 
Ihiulover  I.sthnum  14G. 
Haveiock,  N.  H.  89. 
Head  of  Amherst  78. 
Heart  Kidge,N.  F.  210. 
Heart's  Content  208. 
Heart's  Delight  209. 
Heart's  Desire  209. 
Heart's  Ease,  N.  F.  209. 
Hehertville.  P.  Q.  300. 
Hebron,  Lab.  220. 
Heights  of  Laud  226. 
Hell  Hill  197. 
Hermitage  Bay  215. 
Herring  Cove,  N.  S.  93. 
High  Beaeon  227. 
Highland  Park  23. 
Highland  Village  81. 
High  Point  301. 
Hillsborough,  N.  B.  72. 
Hillsborough  Bay  174. 
Ilill.sborough  lliver  180. 
Hillsburn  86. 
Hoohclaga,  P.  Q.  318. 
Hodge-Water  lliver  213. 
Holland  Bay,  180. 
Holyrood.N.F.  199. 
Holyrood  Pond  213. 
Hooping  Harbor  221. 
Hope,  P.  Q.  241. 
Hope  All,  N.  F.  209. 
Hopedale,  Lab.  226. 
Hopewell  136. 
Hopewell  Cape  72. 
Hor:on  Landing  91. 
Houlton,  Me.  37,  51. 
Howe's  Lake  23. 
Hudson's  Strait  226. 
number  lliver  219. 
Hunter  lliver  177, 178. 

Indian  Bay  167,  203. 
Indian  Beach  30. 
Indian  Gardens  130. 
Indian  Id.,  Lab.  225. 
Indian  Ids.  210. 
Indian  Lorotte  278. 
Indian  Tickle  225. 
Indian  town,  N.  B.  47. 
Indian  Village  51. 
Ingonish,C.  B.  159. 
Intervale  133 
lonclay  Hill  197. 
Iri.«h  Cove,  C.  B.  147. 
Ironbound  Cove,  N.  B  49. 
Ironbound  Id.,  N.  S.  119. 
Island,  Alright  184. 

Amherst  183. 

Anticosti  234. 


INDEX. 

Wand,Bacralieu,N.F.  '01 
Itanial.y,  I'.  (2.  200. 
Ilcauliair'.-'  03. 
I{elleelia.«.-^e254. 
Hie,  P.  (l  250. 
Bhukl.ill  227. 
Bonaventuif  243. 
Bon  Porfnge  124. 
Boughtoii  175. 
Boularderie  Kil. 
Brantly  Pots  202. 
Brier  il7. 
Brunet  214. 
Brjon  184. 
CampobelU,  25. 
Caie  Breton  141. 
Cape  .Sable  123. 
Caribou  175,  224. 
Carrousel  l^i. 
Castle,  Lub.  227. 
Caton's  41. 
Cawee  'Iliii. 
Chapel  147. 
Cheticamp  170. 
Cheyne  29. 
Christmas  1()4. 
Cobbler's  203. 
Coffin  184. 
Cole's  47. 
Cotters  203. 
Crane,  P.  Q.  253. 
Cro.ss.N.  S.  118. 
Dead,N.  F.  225. 
Beer  203. 
Devil,  N.  S.  93. 
Egg,  Lab.  233. 
Entry  184. 

Esquimaux,  Lab.  231. 
Exploits,  N.  F.  205,  210. 
Fair,  N.  F.  203. 
Fishtlake  227. 
Fly  225. 

Fogo,  N.F.  204,210. 
Foster's,  N.  B.  41. 
Fox,  N.  B.  61. 
Funk,  N.  F.  203. 
George  179. 
George's,  N.  S.  98. 
Goat,  N.  S.  85 
Goose,  P.  Q.  253. 
Governor's  175. 
Grand  Dune  61. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grassy,  N.  B.  41. 
Great' Caribou  224. 
Green  124,  201,  220,252. 
Grimross,  N.  U.  43. 
Grindstone  72,  183. 
Grosse  184. 
Hare,  P.  Q.  252. 
Henry  169. 
Heron  67. 
Hor.<e  221. 
Huntington  225. 


•6'2o 


Island,  Indian  225. 
hvlaiid.  N.  F.215. 
Ironbound  119 
.la(|ues  Carti(r220. 
KaniiMiraska  252. 
lyarge  231. 

L<'nnox,  P.  E.  1.  179. 
Little  Miciueion  180. 
Little  Bay  211. 
Locke's,  N.  S.  121. 
Long42. 101, ln7, 117,212. 
Lower  .Musquash  42. 
McNabs,  N.  S.  l(il,93. 
Madame,  P.  Q.  254. 
M.tuger's  43. 
Melville  lUl. 
Merasheen  212. 
Middle  43. 
Micjuelon  ISO. 
Miscou  64. 
Moose  26. 
Nantucket  29. 
Negro  122. 
Newfoundland  18". 
New  World  205. 
of  Ponds  225. 
Panmure,  P.  E.  I.  175. 
Park,  P    E.  I.  179. 
Partridge,  N.  B.  15. 
Partridge,  N.S.  102,  103. 
Penguin  203. 
Pietou,  N.  S.  175. 
Pilgrims  2r'' 
Pincb  ,b203. 
Pinnacle  1(»5. 
Pocksuedio  63. 
Pool's  203. 
Portiige  ()1. 
Priests'  318. 
Prince  Edward  172. 
Quarry  231. 
Quirpon  220. 
llam  121. 

Random,  N.  F.  209. 
Reaux,  P.  Q. 254. 
Red  212,  218,  252. 
Sable  134. 
Saddle  228. 
Sagona  214. 
St.  Barbe  221. 
St.  Paul's  160. 
St.  Pierre  185. 
Sandous  46. 
Seal,  N.  S.  124. 
Sea-Wolf  169. 
Sheldrake  61. 
Shippigan  63. 
Smith's  169. 
Spencer's  103, 104, 106. 
Spotted,  N.  F.  225. 
Square,  Lab.  225. 
Stone  Pillar  253. 
Sugar  60,  51. 
Veuisuu  225. 


4^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


li'.  yi,    |25 

Ug  ^^'    ■■■ 

■ii  Kii   12.2 
•u  iTA    mil 

MS,    12.0 


■u 

IS 

u 


IL25  HI  1.4 


K 

11.6 


6" 


fliotographic 

Sdences 

Corporalion 


23  WiST  MAIN  STRHT 

WIBSTIR,N.Y.  USm 

(716)  •72-4503 


^\ 


iV 


^. 


m 
^ 


o 


A 


\ 


M 
o 

^ 


y 


i 


32G 


INDEX. 


'•■i 


i  '>\ 


miM 


Island,  VIn,  N.  B  Gl, 

White  Head  20. 

White  Horse  31. 

Wolf  184. 

Wood  IMllar  253. 
Island.^,  Rattle  224. 

Burnt  215. 

Camp  227. 

Ciboux  161'. 

Dead  215. 

Five  105. 

Little  St.  Modeste  228. 

Magdalen  183. 

Mingan  231. 

Mutton  124. 

Penguin  203. 

Ragged  212. 

Uamea  215. 

Ram's,  N.  F.  212. 

Red  147. 

Seal  225. 

Seven,  Lab.  232. 

Tancook,  N.  S.  128. 

Tusket,  N.  3.  125. 
Isle  aux  Cbiens  185. 

aux  Coudres  293. 

Bell,  N.  F.  221. 

Belle  206, 220. 

Deadman's  184. 

Deer,  N.  B.  25. 

Oroais  221. 

Haute  104. 

Jesus  318. 

Madame  145. 

of  Orleans  288. 

St.  Louis  304. 

St.  Therese  308. 

Verte,  P.  Q.  252. 
Isles,  Bird  184. 

Burgeo  215. 

de  la  Demoiselle  230. 

Gooseberry  203. 

Passe  Pierre  305. 

Peterel  227. 

Twillingate  205. 

Wadham,  N.  F.  203. 

West,  N.  B,25,31. 

Jackson's  Arm  221. 
Jacksonville,  N.  S.  90. 
Jaques  Cartier306. 
Jebogue  Point  125. 
Jeddore,  N.  S.  132. 
Jemseg,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Jerscyman  Id.  145. 
Jesus,  Isle  318. 
Jeune-Lorette  278. 
Joe  Batt's  Arm  210. 
Joggins  Shore  80. 
Jolicoeur,  N.  B.  73. 
Jollette,  P.  Q. 
Jonquiero  300. 
Judique,  C.  B.  168. 
Julianshaab,  Or.  226. 


Kamouraska,  P.  Q.  252. 
Keels,  N.  F.  203. 
Kcgashk»>  "«"  2.31. 
Kempt  Head  102. 
Kempt,  N.  S.  115. 
Kempt  Lake,  N.  S.  90. 
Kcnnebccasis  Bay  40,  22. 
Kcnogami,  P.  Q.  300. 
Ken.<<ington  178. 
Kentville,  N.  S.  90. 
Keswick  Valley  50. 
Keyhole,  N.  B.  49. 
Kingsclcar,  N.  B.  51. 
King's  Cove  203- 
Kingston,  N.  B.  42. 
Kingston,  N.  S.  89. 
Koucbibouguac  Bay  61. 

La  Bonne  S:;.  Anne  285. 
Labrador  223. 
Lac  k  la  Belle  Truite  302. 
Lachine,  P.  Q.  320. 
La  Fleur  de  Lis  221. 
Lahave  River  128. 
Lake  Ainslie  167, 169. 

Bathurst211l. 

Bear  38. 

Beauport  279. 

Htlfry  154. 

Ben  Lomond  23. 

Blind  126. 

Catalogne,  C.  B.  154. 

Cedar,  N.  S.  115. 

Chamberlain,  Me.  58. 

Chesuncook  58. 

Cl—eland  67. 

Cranberry  38. 

Croaker's  211. 

Echo,  N.  S.  131. 

Fairy,  N.  S.  130. 

French,  N.  B.  48. 

Gabarus,  C.  B.  154. 

Gaspercaux  90. 

George  61,  90, 115. 

George  IV.  211. 

Grand  48,  36,  82. 

3ravcl  296. 

Great  Ila  JIa  302. 

Jones  23. 

Kempt  90. 

Lewey's,  Me.  35. 

Lily,  N.  B.  22. 

Little  Ila  Ila  302. 

Long,  P.  Q.  58. 

Long,  N.  S.  82. 

Magnguadavic  38. 

Malaga,  N.  S.  129. 

Manor,  P.  Q.  319. 

Maquapit,  N.  B.  48. 

Metapedia  69. 

Mira,  C.  B.  154. 

Mistassini  301. 

Moosehead  58. 

Mount  Theobald  71. 


Lake  Nepisiguit  65. 

Nictor,  N.  B.  66. 

Oromocto  38. 

Pechtawcekagomic  58. 

Pemgockwahcn  68. 

Pockwock  100. 

Pohenagamook  58. 

Ponhook,  N.  S.  126. 

Porter's  131. 

Port  Medway  130. 

Preble,  Me.  67. 

Prince  William  EQ. 

Queen's,  N.  B.  37. 

Quiddy  Viddv  195. 

Robin  Hool'  37. 

Rocky,  N.  S.  82. 

Rossignol  130. 

St.  Charles  279. 

St.  Joachim  287. 

St.  John,  P.  Q.  301. 

St.  Peter,  P.  Q.  307. 

Sedgvick  57. 

Segum  Sega  130. 

Sheogomoc  62. 

Shepody,  N.  B.  72. 

Sherbrookfc  90. 

Sherwood,  N.  B.  37. 

Ship  Harbor  132. 

S.  Oromocto  38. 

Spruce,  N.  B.  24. 

Stream  49. 

Taylor's  23. 

Temiscouata  68,  295. 

Terra  Nova  203. 

Tracy's,  N.  B.  71. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  115. 

Two-Mile  90. 

Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Vaughan,  N.  S.  115. 

Washademoak  47, 42. 

Welastookwaagamis  58. 

Wentworth  113. 

Windsor,  N.  F.  195. 

Winthrop,  Me.  68. 
Lakes,  Ayleaford  90. 

Braa  d'Or  161. 

Chiputneticook  38. 

Dartmouth  101. 

Eagle,  Me.  68. 

Schoodic,Me.  35. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  115. 
La  Manche  197, 212. 
Lance-au-Loup  228. 
Lance  Cove  206. 
Land's  End,  41. 
Langley  Id.  186. 
Lanoraie,  P.  Q.  308. 
L'Anse  t)i  I'Eau  306. 
La  Poile,  N.  F.  215. 
L'Archev&que  147. 
L'Ardoise,  C.  B.  146. 
Large  Id.  231. 
LaScie221,2n. 
L'AssfHuption,  P.  Q.  308. 


INDEX. 


327 


isignit  55. 
N.  B.  56. 
to  38. 

ivcekagomic  5S. 
kwahcn  5& 
ick  100. 
Ramook  58. 
k,  N.  S.  126. 
}131. 

jdway  130. 
Me.  57. 
William  52. 
J,  N.  B.  37. 
Viddv  195. 
Hool'  37. 
N.  S.  82. 
lol  130. 
Ties  279. 
chim  287. 
n,  P.  Q.  301. 
er,  P.  Q.  307. 
Ek57. 
Sega  130. 
moc  52. 
[y,  N.  B.  72. 
ookt  90. 
»od,  N.  B.  37. 
arbor  132. 
nocto  38. 
,  N.  B.  24. 
49. 
's  23. 

ouata  58,  295. 
Jova  203. 
,N.  B.71. 
N.  S.  115. 
lie  90. 
N.  B.  32. 
m,  N.  S.  115. 
jemoak  47, 42. 
ookwaapuuis  58. 
orth  113. 
)r,  N.  F- 195. 
•op,  Me.  68. 
j^leaford  90. 
Or  161. 
ncticook  38. 
mth  101. 
Me.  58. 
ic,Me.  35. 
N.  S.  115. 
ie  197, 212. 
Loup  228. 
ve  206. 
nd,  41. 
d.  186. 
P.  Q.  308. 
I'Eau  305. 
N.  F.  215. 
6  que  147. 
,  C.  B.  146. 
231. 
21,211. 
>tion,  P.  Q.  308. 


Laval  River  299. 
Lavaltrie,  P.  Q.  808. 
La  Vicille  2i6. 
Lawlor's  Lake  70. 
Lawrencetown  89, 131. 
Lazaretto,  Tracadie  62. 
Ledge,  The  35. 
Loitchfield,  N.  S.  86. 
Lennox  Id.  179. 
Lennox  Passage  145. 
Lcs  Eboulements  294. 
Les  Ecureuils  306. 
Ijcs  Escoumains  288. 
L'EtangduNordl84. 
L'Etang  du  Savoyard  185. 
L'Etang  Harbor  31. 
Letitc  Passage  32. 
Levic,  P.  Q.  282. 
Lewey's  Id.  35. 
Lewis  Cove  47. 
Lily  Lake  22. 
Lingan  152, 150. 
Lion's  Back  23. 
Liscomb  Harbor  1S2. 
L'lalot,  P.  Q.  253. 
L'Tslet  au  Massacre  250. 
Little  Arichat  145. 
Little  Bay  Id.  206,  211. 
Little  Bras  d'Or  161. 
Little  Falls  67. 
Little  Glace  Bay  153. 
Little  Ila  Ha  Lake  302. 
Little  Ix)ran  154. 
Little  Miquelon  186. 
Little  Narrows  167. 
Little  Pabos  241. 
Little  Placentia  212. 
Little  River  22. 
Little  Rocber  72. 
Little  Saguenay  304. 
Little  St.  Lawrence  214. 
Little  Scldom-come-by  210. 
Little  Shemogue  69. 
Little  Tancook  128. 
Liverpool,N.S.  120,130. 
Lobster  Harbor  221. 
Loch  Alva  37. 
Loch  an  Fad  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  C.  B.  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  N.  B.  22. 
Lochside,  C.  B.  147. 
Loch  Uist  147. 
Locke's  Id,  N.  S.  121. 
Logic  Bay  195,  200. 
Londonderry  106. 
Long  Id.  40,  42, 101, 117. 
Long  Pilgrim  252. 
Lorig  Point  231. 
Long  Range  217. 
Long  Reach  41. 
Long's  Eddy  30. 
Longue  Point  319. 
Lorctte,  Indian  278. 
Lotbiaiire,  P.  Q.  306. 


Louisbourg.  C.  B.  154, 149. 
Loup  Bay  228. 
Low  Point  168. 
Lower  Canterbury  52. 
Lower  Caraquette  66. 
Lower  French  Vill  51. 
Lower  Horton  107. 
Lower  Middleton  89. 
Lower  Prince  Wihiam  51. 
Lower  QueensVury  61. 
Lower  Woodstock  52. 
Lubec,  Me.  26. 
Ludlow,  N.  B.  47. 
Lunenburg  118, 128. 

Mabou,  C.  B.  169. 
Mabou  Valley  168. 
McAdam  June.  38. 
Maccin,  N.  8.  80,  79. 
Mace's  Bay  31. 
McNab's  Id.  101,  93. 
Madawaska  57. 
Magaguadavic  River  32. 
Magdalen  Ids.  183. 
Magdelaine,  Cape  248. 
Maguacha  Point  67,  239. 
Magundy,  N.  B.61. 
Mahogany  Road  24. 
Mahone  Bay  127, 118. 
Main-A-Dieu  150. 
Maitland  82, 105, 129. 
Malaga  Lake  130. 
Malagawdatchkt  165. 
Malbfiic,  P.  Q.  294. 
Mai  Bay  244. 
Malcolm  Point  01. 
Malignant  Cove  139. 
Malpeque  Harbor  178. 
Manchester,  N.  S.  133. 
Manicouagan  233,  250. 
Manitousin  Falls  232. 
Maquapit  Lake  48. 
Marchmont  280. 
Margaree  River  167. 
Margaree  Forks  170. 
Margaretsville  89. 
Maria,  P.  Q.  240. 
Marie  .Toseph  132. 
Marion  Bridge  154. 
Marshalltown  112. 
Mars  Head  lli. 
Mars  Hill  54. 
Marsh  Road  22- 
Marshy  ir  t)el38. 
Mascarene  32. 
Masstown  81. 
Matane,  P.  Q.  249. 
Mattawamkeag  39,  58. 
Maugerville.  N.  B.  43. 
Mealy  Mts.  225. 
Meccatina,  Lab.  230. 
Mcdisco,  N.  B.  66. 
Mcductic  Rapids  52. 
MejarmettQ  Portage  40. 


Molford  Creek  143. 
Melrose,  N.  S.  82. 
Melvcrn  Square  89. 
Melville  Id.  101. 
Melville  Lake  226. 
Memramcook  73. 
Merashecn  Id.  212. 
Merigomish  138. 
Metapcdia  69. 
Meteghan,  N.  S.  113. 
M^tis,  P.  Q.  249. 
Middle  Musquodoboit  82. 
Middle  River  163, 167. 
Middle  Simonds,  53. 
Middle  Stcwiacke  81. 
Middleton,  N.  S.  89. 
Milford,  N.  S.  129. 
Milford  Haven  133. 
Milkish  Channel  41. 
Mill  Cove,  N.  B.  49. 
Mille  Vaches  299. 
Milltown,  N.  B.  35. 
Mill  Village  128. 
Minas  Basin  101, 108. 
Mingan  Ids.,  Lab.  231. 
Ming's  Bight  221. 
Minister's  Face  22. 
Minudie,  N.  S.  79. 
Miquelon  185,  214, 
Mira  Bay  150. 
Mira  I^ke,  C.  B.  154. 
Miramichi,  N.  B,  61. 
Miscouche  179. 
.Miscou  Id,  64. 
Mispeck,  N.  B.  23. 
Missiguash  Marsh  79,  74. 
Mission  Point  68. 
Mistanoque  Id.  230. 
Mistassini,  Lake  301. 
Moisic  River  232. 
Molasses  Harbor  134. 
Momozeket  River  65. 
Moncton,  N.  B.  72. 
Money  Cove  30. 
Montague  Bridge  187 . 
Montague  Mines  101, 131. 
Mont  Joli  231. 
Mont  L"uis  249. 
Montmorenci  Falls  277. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  309. 

Bonsccours  Market  312. 

Champ  de  Mars,  312. 

Christ  Ch.  Cathcd.  314. 

Court  House  312. 

Dominion  Sq.  315. 

Gcolog.  Museum  312. 

Gesu  Church  313. 

Gray  Nunnery  316. 

Great  Seminary  315. 

Hotel  Dieu  316. 

Instltut  Canadien  312. 

McGill  Univ.  814. 

Montreal  Coll.  315. 

Mt.  Koyal  316 


w 


V 

1 !  ^ 

f  I  ■ 

i  V       I 

•f'>     '■;     . 

%    ' 

?»f:.  ^  , 

^ 

■ 

1 


s    ;; 


i 


328 


Montreal,   Nazareth    Asyl. 
316. 

New  Cathedral  315. 

Notre  Dame  311. 

Place  d'Armes  311. 

Post-Office  311. 

Seminary  312. 

St.  Helen's  Isle  313. 

Victoria  BriJge  316. 

Victoria  Square  311. 
Moose  Harbor  120. 
Moosepath  Park  22. 
Morden,  N.  S.  89. 
Morrell.P.  E.  1. 182. 
Morris  Id.  116. 
Morristown  90, 139. 
Mosquito  Cove  208. 
Moss  Glen  22. 
Moulin  k  Baude  299. 
Mount  Aspotogon  127. 

Blair  32. 

Calvaire  186. 

Camille  250. 

Chapeau  186. 

Dalhousie  67. 

Denson  91. 

EboulcmentR  294,  253. 

Granville  146. 

Hawley  89. 

Ilermon  Cemet.  280. 

Joli  242. 

Nat  225. 

P!.«(;ah  71. 

Roy il  316, 318. 

St.  Anne  242. 

Stewart,  P.  E.  1. 181. 

Teneriffe,  N.  B.  55. 

Uiiiacke,  N.  S.  93. 
Mountain,  Ardoise,  93. 

Bald,  38,  55. 

Beloeil  319. 

Boar's  Back  132. 

Boucherville  319. 

Chamcook  33. 

North  84. 

Salt  168. 

South  84. 

Sugar-Loafl59. 

Tracadiegash  67,  239. 
Mountains,  Antigonish  139. 

Baddeck  163. 

Blue  84,  90, 115, 130. 

Cobequid  80. 

Ingonish  161. 

Mealy  225. 

Notre  Dame  249. 

St.  Anne  287. 

St.  Margaret  302. 

Scaumenac  68. 

Sporting  146. 
Mull  River  168. 
Murray  Bay  294. 
Murray  Harbor  181. 
Musbaboon  Harbor  132. 


INDEX. 


Musquash,  N.  B.  31. 
Mus(iuodoboit  1?1. 
Mutton  Ids.  124. 

Nain,  Lab.  226. 
Napan  Valley  61. 
Narrows,  The  47,  64. 
Narrows,  Grand  164. 
Nashwaak  47. 
Nashwaaksis  45. 
Natashquan  Point  231. 
Natural  Steps,  The  277. 
Necum  Tench  132. 
Negro  Id.,  N.  S.  122. 
Negrotown  Point  15. 
Nelson,  N.  B.  63. 
Nepi.«igait  Lake  55. 
Nepisiguit  River  65. 
Nerepis  Hills,  N.  B.41. 
Nerepis  River  38. 
Netsbuctoke  225. 
Neutral  Id.,  N.  B.  34. 
New  Albany,  N.  g  89. 
New  Bandon  66. 
New  Bay  211. 
New  Bonaventure  210. 
New  Brunswick  13. 
Newburgh,  N.  B.  50. 
New  Canaan  48. 
New  Carlisle  240. 
Newcastle  49,  62. 
New  Dublin  119. 
New  Edinburgh  112. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  Glasgow,  N.  S.  136. 
New  Glasgow,  P.  E.  I.  178. 
New  Liverpool  282. 
New  London  178. 
Newman.  Sound  203. 
New  Perlican  209. 
Newport,  N.  S.  92, 101. 
Newport,  ?.  Q.  241. 
New  Richmond  240. 
New  Ross,  N.  S.  90. 
New  Tusket  113. 
Niapisca  Id.  231. 
Nicolet,  P.  Q.  308. 
Nictau  Falls  89. 
Nictor  Lake  55. 
Niger  Sound  227. 
Nimrod,  N.  F.  211. 
Nipper's  Harbor  205,  211. 
Noel,  N.  S.  105. 
North  Bay  214. 
Northern  Head  30. 
Northfield  129. 
North  Harbor  212. 
North  Joggins  73. 
North  Lake  182. 
North  Mt.  84. 
North  Point  180. 
North  River  Falls  105. 
North  Rustico  178. 
North  Sydney  151. 


Northumberland  Strait  60, 

■i74,  239. 
Nortnwest  Arm  100. 
North  Wiltshire  177. 
Norton,  N.B.  71,42. 
Norwest,  Lab.  226. 
Notre  D(ime  Bay  210,  205. 
Notre  Dame  du  Lac  58. 
Nova  Scotia  75. 
Nulble  Id.  31. 

Oak  Bay,  N.  B.  34. 
Oak  Point  41,  61. 
Ochre  Pit  Cove  208. 
Offer  Wadham  204. 
Okkak,  Lab.  226. 
Old  Barns  81. 
Old  Bonaventure  210. 
Old  Ferolle  219. 
Old  Fort  Point  158. 
Oldham  Mines  82. 
Old  Maid  29. 
Old  Perlican  209,  201. 
Oldtown,  Me.  39. 
Olonianosheebo  231> 
Onslow  80. 
Oromocto,  N.  B.  43. 
Oromocto  Lake  38. 
Orono,  Me.  39. 
Otnabog,  N.  B.  42. 
Ottawa,  Ont.  320. 
Outarde  River  250. 
Oxford,  N.  S.  80. 
Ovens,  the  119. 

Pabineau  Falls  66. 
Pabos,  P.  Q.  241. 
Painsec  June.  72,  59. 
PapsofMatane249. 
Paradise,  N.  F.  226. 
Paradise,  N.  S.  89. 
Parrsboro',  N.  S.  102. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  B.  16. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  S.  102. 
Paspebiac.  P.  Q.  240. 
Patrick's  Hole  290. 
Patten,  Me.  58. 
Penguin  Ids.  203. 
Penobscot  River  39. 
Penobsquis,  N.  B.  71. 
Penteco.-^t  River  233. 
Pepiswick  Lake  131. 
Perce,  P.  Q.  242. 
Perroquets,  The  232. 
Perry,  Me.  28. 
Perth,  N.  B.  54. 
Petitoodiac  72,  48. 
Petit  de  Grat  145. 
Petite  Bergeronne  233. 
Petite  Passage  117. 
Petit  MiHis  249. 
Petty  Harbor  197. 
Piccadilly  Mt.  71. 
Pickwaakeet  42. 


INDEX. 


329 


erland  Strait  60, 
id. 

Arm  100. 
shire  177. 

B.  71,42. 
,ab.  226. 
le  Bay  210,  205. 
le  du  Lac  68. 
ia  75. 

31. 

if.  B.  34. 
41,  61. 
Cove  208. 
lam  204. 
b.  226. 
81. 
enture  210. 

219. 
'oint  158. 
incs  82. 
!9. 

in  209,  201. 
yie.  39. 
leebo  231. 

N.  B.  43. 
Lake  38. 

39. 
V.  B.  42. 
at.  320. 
liver  250. 
.  S.  80. 
$119. 

Falls  66. 
Q.  241. 
inc.  72, 59. 
itanc  249. 
N.  F.  225. 
N.  S.  89. 
,  N.  S.  102. 
Id.,  N.  B.  15. 
Id.,  N.  S.  102. 

P.  Q.  240. 
lole  290. 
;.  68. 
Is.  203. 
River  39. 
s,  N.  B.  71. 
Kiver  233. 
Lake  131. 
i.  242. 
1,  Tho  232. 

28. 
8.54. 
!  72,  48. 
-at  145. 
^eronne  233. 
iage  117. 
I  249. 
)or  197. 
Nit.  71. 
3t42. 


Pictou  137, 166. 
Pictou  Id.  176. 
Pilgrims,  The  252. 
Pincher's  Id.  20a 
Pinnacle  Id,  N.  S.  105. 
Pirate's  Cove  143. 
Pisarinco  Cove  31. 
Plaoentia  Bay  212. 
Plains  of  Abraham  280. 
Plaster  Cove  143, 168. 
Pleasant  Bay  183. 
Pleasant  Point  27. 
Pleureuse  Point  249. 
Plumweseep  71. 
Pockmouche,  N.  B.  62. 
Pockshaw,  N.  B.  66. 
Point  ;Sl  Beaulieu  295 
Point  Aconi,C.  B.  161. 

Amour,  Lab.  228. 

i  Pique  294. 

au  Bourdo  69. 

de  Monts  2S3,  249. 

duChOne59,60. 

la  Bouie  306. 

Lepreau  31. 

Levi,  P.  Q.  282. 

Maquereau  241. 

Miscou,  N.  B.  64. 

Orignaux  252. 

Pleasant  40,  68, 100. 

Prim  175, 181. 

Rich,  N.  F.  219. 

St.  Charles  316. 

St.  Peter  244. 

Wolfe,  N.  B.  71. 
Pointe  &  la  Garde  68. 

ik  la  Croix  68. 

aux  Trembles  306,  309. 

Mille  Vaches  233. 

Roches  301. 

Rouge  299. 
Pokiok  Falls  52. 
Pollett  River  72. 
Pouiquet  Forks  139. 
Pond,  Deer,  N.  F.  219. 

Grand,  N.  F.  218. 

Red  Indian  211. 

Quemo-Gospen  213. 
Ponhook  f  <ake  130, 126. 
Port  Acadie,  N.  S.  113. 
Portage  Road,  N.  B.  61. 
Port  au  Basque,  N.  F.  216. 

au  Choix  219. 

au  Persil,  P.  Q.  295. 

au  Pique  81. 

au  Port,  N.  F.  218. 

»ux  Quille's,  296. 

Daniel  241. 

Elgin,  N.  B.  73. 
Porter's  Lake,  N.  S.  131. 
Port  Greville,  N.  S.  103. 

Hastings,  C.  B.  143. 

llawkcsbury  143. 

Uerbert,  N.  S.  12L 


Port  Hill,  P.  E.  1. 179. 

Hood,  C.  B.  169. 

Joli,  N.  S.  121. 

Latour,  N.  S.  122. 

Medway,  N.  S.  120. 

Mouton  120. 

Mulgrave  143, 140. 
Port  Neiif,  Lab.  233. 
Portneuf,  P.  Q.  306. 
Porto  Nuevo  Id.  149. 
Portugal  Cove  195,  206. 
Port  St.  Augustine  230. 
Port  Williams  89,  91. 
Powder-IIorn  Hills  212. 
Pownal,  P.  E.  I.  177. 
Presque  Isle,  Me.  64. 
Preston,  N.  S.  131. 
Preston's  Beach  61. 
Prim  Point  83. 
Prince  Edward  Id.  172. 
Princetown,  P.  E.  1. 178. 
Prince  William  52. 
Prince  William  St.  89. 
Pubnico,  N.  S.  125. 
Pugwash  81,  80. 

Quaco,  N.  B.  71. 
Quebec,  P.  Q.  255. 

Anglican  Cathedral  260. 

Basilica  261. 

Cathedral  201. 

Citadel  266. 

Custom  House  271. 

Durham  Terrace  269. 

Esplanade  268. 

Gen.  Hospital  272. 

Gov.'s  Garden  269. 

Grand  Battery  269. 

Hotel  Dieu  266. 

Jesuits'  Collpge  261. 

Laval  University  263. 

Lower  Town  271. 

Marine  IIosp  272. 

Market  Sq.  260. 

Maitello  Towers  270. 

Montcalm  Ward  270. 

Morin  College  266. 

N.  D.  des  Victoires  271. 

Parliament  Building  263. 

Post-vfltce  264. 

St.  John  Ward  269. 

St.  Rocn  272. 

Seminary  262. 

Ursuline  Conv.  264. 
Quemo  Gospen  213. 
Quiddy  Viddy  195. 
Quirpon,  N.  F.  220. 
Quispamsis.  N.  B.  70. 
Quoddy  Head  26. 
Ragged  Harbor  201. 
Ragged  Ids.  212. 
Rauiea  Ids.  N.  F.  215. 
Ram  Id.  121. 
Ram's  Ids.  N.  F.  212. 


Random  Pound  209. 
Rankin's  Mills,  N.  B.  37. 
Rapide  de  Feuuiie  56. 
Rapids,  Lachinc  319. 

Meductic  52. 

St.  Anne  320. 

St.  Mary's  319. 

Terres  Rompues  300. 
Red  Bay  228. 
Red  ClitTs,  Lab.  220,  228. 
Red  Head,  N.  F.  200. 
Red  Hills,  N.  F.  1D9. 
Red-Indian  Pond  210, 211. 
Red  Ids.  147. 
Ited  Point  182. 
Red  Rapids,  N.  B.  54. 
Remsheg,  N.  S.  81. 
Renew^e,  N.  F.  198. 
Ronlrew,  N.  S.  82. 
Ropentigny,  P.  Q-  308. 
Rcstigouche  River  69,  56. 
Richibucto,  N.  B.  60. 
Richmond  Bay  178. 
Rigolette,  Lab.  226. 
Uiniou.ski,  P.  Q.  260. 
River,  Avon,  N.  S.  91. 

Char'.o,  N.B.  66. 

Denys,  C.  B.  165. 

Gold,  N.  S.  128 

Gouffre,  P.  Q.  292. 

Hillsborough  180. 

number,  N   F.  219. 

John,N  S.  81. 

Lallave,  N.  S.  128. 

Louison,  N.  B.  66. 

Magnguadavic  32. 

Manitou,  Lab.  232. 

Miramichi  61. 

Mistassini  301. 

Moisic.  Lab.  232. 

Ncpisiguit  66, 65. 

of  Castors  219. 

Exploits  210. 

Ottawa  320. 

Petitcodiac  72. 

Philip,  N.  S.  80. 

Restigouche  69,  56. 

Saguenay  297,  233. 

St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  286. 

St.  Croix,  N.  B  33. 

St.  John,  Lab  232. 

St.  Lawrence  246,  305. 

St.  Marguene  306. 

St.  Mary's,  N.  S.  133. 

St.  Maurice  307. 
River.^dalc,  N.  S  136. 
River,  Tobique  54. 
Riviere  a  POurs  301. 

a  Mars  302. 

du  Loup  295,  252. 

Maheu  290. 

Ouelle,  P,  Q.  252. 
Robl.inston,  Me.  33. 
Uobtrval,  P.  Q.  301. 


330 


INDE.C. 


I  . 


i  4 


Robinson's  Point  48. 
Rochettc,  N.  B.  66. 
Rock,  Perce  242. 
Rockland,  N.  B.  73. 
Rockport  73. 
Rocky  Bay,  N.F.  210. 
Kocky  Lake,  N.  S.  82. 
Rollo  Bay,  P.  E.  1. 182. 
Rosades,  The  261. 
Rose  Bay  119. 
Rose  Blanche  215. 
Rossignol  Lake  130. 
Rossway,  N.  S.  116. 
Rothesay  22,  70. 
Rough  Waters  66. 
Round  Harbor  211. 
Route  des  Pretres  290. 
Royalty  June.  177 
Rustico,  P.  £.  1. 178. 

Sabbattee  Lake  127. 

Sabimm  Lake  124. 

Sable  Id.  134. 

Sackvtlle,  N.  B.  73. 

Sacred  Ids.  220. 

Saddle  Id.  227. 

Sagona  Id.  214. 

Saguenay  River  297. 

St.  Agnes,  P.  Q.  295. 

St.  Albans,  P.  Q.  281. 

St.  Alexis  69,  302. 

St.  Alphonse,  P.  Q.  302. 

St.  Andrews,  N.  B.  33,  28. 

St.  Andrews,  P.  E.  I.  181. 

St.  Andrew's  Channel  165. 

St.  Angel  de  Laval  307. 

St.  Anne  (Bout  de  I'L )  320. 

St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  285. 

St.  Anne  dela  Perade  307. 

St.  Anne  de  la  Pocati^re  253. 

St.  Anne  des  Monts  249. 

St.  Anne  du  Nord  285. 

St.  Anr.e  du  Saguenay  300. 

St.  Anne  Mts.  287. 

St.  Anne's  Bay  158, 

St.  Anthony  221. 

St.  Antoine  de  Tilly  306. 

St.  Antoine  Perou  2i*2. 

St.  Arst-ne  296. 

St.  Augustin  306. 

St.  Barbe  219. 

St.  Basil  57. 

St.  Bruno  319. 

St.  Cecile  du  Bic  251. 

St.  Charles  Harbor  227. 

St.  Colomb  280. 

St.  Croix,  P.  Q.  306. 

St.  Croix  Cove  89. 

St.  Croix  River  33. 

St.  Cuthbert  308. 

St.  David's  178. 

St.  Denis,  P.  Q.  252. 

St.  Donat,  P.  Q.  250. 

St.  Eleanors,  P.  £.  1. 179. 


St.  EliKibeth,  P.  Q.  308. 
St,  E.sprit,  C.  B.  148. 
St.  Etienne  Bay  305. 
St.  Fabien,  P.  Q.  251. 
St.  Famine,  P.  Q.  289. 
St.  Felicit:-,  P.  Q.  249. 
St.  Felix  de  Valois  308. 
St.  FerLol,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  Fiddle,  P.  Q.  295. 
St.  Flavie  70, 250. 
St.  Foy,  P.  Q.  281. 
St.  Francis  58. 
St.  Francis  Harbor  225. 
St.  FranQoia  290. 
St.  Francois  du  Lac  308. 
St.  FrauQois  Xavier  292. 
St.  Fulgence  301. 
St.  Genevieve  219. 
St.  George,  N.  B.  32. 
St.  George's  Bay  217. 
St.  George's  Channel  165. 
St.  Germain  de  Rim.  250. 
St.  Ircn^e  294. 
St.  Ignace,  Cap  253. 
St,  Jaques  214. 
St.  Jean  Baptiste  318. 
St.  Jean  Deschaillons  307. 
St.  Jean  d'Orleans  290. 
St,  Jean-Port-Joli  253. 
St.  Jerome,  P,  Q.  301, 
St.  Joachim  287. 
St.  John,  N.  B.  15. 

Cathedral  18. 

Custom-IIouse  17. 

Gen.  Pub.  Hosp.  18. 

Harbor  15. 

King  Square  16. 

Post-Offlce  17. 

St.  Paul's  19. 

Trinity  17. 

Valley,  The  19. 

Wiggins  Aayl.  17. 

Y,  M.  C.  A.  16. 
St.  John,  Lake  301. 
St.  John's,  N.F.  189. 

Anglican  Cathedral  191. 

Colonial  Building  192. 

Gov't  House  192. 

Harbor  189. 

Narrows  191. 

Roman-Catholic     Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal  Hill  193. 
St.  John's  Bay  304. 
St.  Jones  Harbor  209. 
St.  Joseph,  N.  B.  73. 
St.  Joseph  P.  Q.  282. 
St.  Laurent  290. 
St.  Lawrence  Bay  160. 
St.  Lawrrnce  River  246, 305 
St.  Leonard,  N.  B.  56. 
St.  Leon  Springs  308. 
St.  liewis  Sound  225. 
St.  Louis  l£le  304. 


St.  Luce,  P.  Q.  250. 
St.  Lunaire221. 
St.  Margaret  River  233. 
St.  Margaret's  Bay  219. 
St.  Margaret's  Bay  126, 118. 
St.  Marguerite  River  305. 
St.  Martin,  P.  Q.  318, 
St.  Martin's,  N.  B,  71. 
St.  Mary's,  N.  B.  45. 
St.  Mary's,  N.  F.  213. 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  N  F.  213. 
St.  Mary's  Bav,  N.  S.  112. 
St.Mary'sBay,P.  E.L18L 
St.  Maurice  River  307. 
St.  Matthieu  251. 
St.  Michael's  Bay  225. 
St.  Michel  254. 
St.  Modeste  296. 
St  Norbert308. 
St.  Octave,  P.  Q.  249. 
St.  Onesime,  P.  Q.  253. 
St.  Pacome,  P.  Q.  253. 
St.  Paschal  252. 
St.  Patrick's  Channel  167. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
St.  Peter's.C.  B.  146. 
St.  Peter's,  N.  B.  65. 
St.  Peter's,  P,  E.  I.  182. 
St.  Peter's  Bay  227. 
St.  Peter's  Inlet  165. 
St.  Peter's  Id.  174. 
St.  Peter,  I^ake  307. 
St.  Pierre  185,  214. 
St.  Pierre  d'Orieans  289. 
St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  307. 
St,  Placlde,  P.  Q.  292. 
St.  Roch-des-Aulnaies  253. 
St.  Romuald,  P.  Q.  282. 
St.  Rose  de  Lima  318. 
St.  Shot's,  N.  F.  213. 
St.  Simeon,  295. 
St.  Simon  251. 
St.  Stephen,  N.  B.  35. 
St.  Sulpice,  P.  Q.  308. 
St.  Therese  318. 
St.  Thomas,  P.  Q.  253. 
St.  Tite  des  Caps  287. 
St.  ITrbain  292. 
St.  Valier,  P.  Q.  254. 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  318. 
Salisbury,  N.B.  72. 
Salmon  Cove  201. 
Salmonier,  N.  F.  213. 
Salmon  River  49,  71, 114. 
SaltMt.,C.  B.  167. 
Salutation  Point  174. 
Sambro  Id.  117. 
Sandwich  Bay  226. 
Sandwich  Head  227. 
Sandybeach  244. 
Sandy  Cove  116, 112. 
Sandy  Point  217. 
Sault  &  la  Puce  284. 
Sault  au  Cochon  291. 


INDEX. 


:;3i 


p.  Q.  250. 

e  221 

•et  RiVer  233. 

et's  Hay  2ia 

•et's  Bay  126, 118. 

Brite  River  3()5, 

,  P.  Q.  318. 

's,  N.  B.  71. 

,  N.  B.  46. 

,  N.  F.  213. 

«ay,  N  F.  213 

Kay,  N,  S.  112. 

Bay,  P.  E.  I.  181. 

e  River  307. 

!U261. 

'8  Bay  225. 

254. 
296. 

308. 

P. Q.  249. 
e,  P.  Q.  253. 

.  P.  Q.  263. 

252. 

'8  Channel  167. 
lay  292. 
C.  B.  146. 

N.  B.  65. 

P.  E.  I.  182. 
Bay  227. 
Inlet  165. 
Id.  174. 
ake  307. 
85,  214. 

Orleans  289. 
!S  Becquets  307. 

P.  Q.  292. 
s-Aulnaies  253. 
1,  P.  Q.  282. 
Lima  318. 
^  F.  213. 
295. 
>1. 

N.  B.  35. 
P.  Q.  308. 
318. 

P.  Q.  253. 

-aps  287. 

92. 

.  Q  254. 

le  Paul,  318. 

B.  72. 

201. 

.  F.  213. 

•  49,  ri,  114. 

1  167. 

)int  174. 

17. 

y225. 

1(1227. 

J44. 

16, 112. 

ili. 

36  284. 

ion  291. 


SauH  au  llecollet  318. 
Sault  de  Mouton  233. 
Scatari.C.  B.  150. 
Schoodic  Lakes  35. 
Scotchtown,  N.  B.  43. 
Scotch  VillaRe  93. 
Sculpia  Point  214. 
Seal  Cove,  N.  B.  29. 
Seal  Cove,  N.  F.  221. 
Seal  Id.  N.  8.124. 
Seal  Ids.  225. 
Sea-Trout  Point  175. 
Sea-Wolf  Id.  IfiO. 
Seeley's  Mills  71. 
Segum-Sega  Lakes  130. 
Seldoui-come-by  210. 
Seven  Ids.,  Lab.  232. 
Shag  Id.  230. 
Shawanegan  Falls  307. 
Shecatica  Bay  230. 
Shediac  69,  60, 174. 
Sheet  Harbor  132. 
Shelburne,  N.  S.  121. 
Shepody  Bay  73. 
Shepodv  Mt.  72. 
Shcrbrooke  133, 132. 
Shcrbrooke  Lake  90. 
Shiniuiicas,  N.  S.  78. 
Ship  Harbor  132. 
Shippigan  Id.  63. 
Shoe  Cove  211,  221. 
Shubenacadic  82. 
Sillery,  P.  Q.  280. 
Silver  Falls,  N.  B.  22. 
Sir     Charles      Hamilton's 

Sound,   N.  F.  20a 
Sissiboo  Falls  112. 
Skye  Glen  168. 
Smith's  Sound  209. 
Smoky,  Cape  159. 
Sorel,  P.  Q.  308. 
Souris,  P.  E.  I.  182. 
South  Bay,  N.  B.  40. 
South  Mt.  84. 
South  Oromocto  Lake  38. 
Sou^hport,  P.  E.  I.  177. 
South  Quebec  282. 
S.  W.  Head  29. 
S.  W.  Miramichi  62. 
Spaniard's  Bay  207. 
Spear  Harbor  226. 
Spectacle  Id.  120. 
Spencer's  Id.  103, 104, 106. 
Spencer  Wood  280. 
Spiller  Rocks  202. 
Split,  Cape  104. 
Split  Rock,  31. 
Spotted  Id.  226. 
Spout,  The  197. 
Sprogg's  Point  42. 
Sprague's  Cove  29. 
Springfield,  N.  B.  42. 
Springfield,  N.  S.  S9. 
Springhill,  N.  B.  61. 


Spring  Hill,  N.S.  80. 
Spruce  Id.  31 
Spruce  Lake  24. 
Spry  Bay  132. 
Stanley,  N.  B.  50, 
Statue  Point  303. 
Steep  Creek  143. 
Stellarton,  N.  S.  136. 
Stewiacke  82. 
Stone  Pillar  253. 
Surmont,  N.  S.  133. 
Strait  of  Barra  164, 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle  220,  227 
Strait  of  Canso  142. 
Strait  of   Northumberland 

60, 174,  239. 
Strait  Shore,  N.  F.  196. 
Sugar  Id  50,61. 
Sugar-Loaf,  N,  B,  68. 
Sugar-Loaf,  N,  F,  200,  217. 
Suuimerside,  P  E.  1. 178. 
Sunacadie,  C,  B.  164, 
Su8.sex  Vale,  N.  B.  71. 
Swallow-Tail  Head  29, 
Sydney,  C,  B. 150, 
Sydneji  Mines  152. 

Tableau,  Le  303, 
Table  Head  227. 
Table  Roulante  243. 
Tabusiniac  61,  62, 
Tadousac,  P.  Q  299. 
Tangier,  N.  S.  132 
Tannery  West  319. 
Tautramar  Marsh  79,  74. 
Tatamagouche,  N.  S.  81. 
Tea  Hill,  P.  E,  I,  177. 
Tedish,  N.  B.  69 
Temi.scouata  Lake  58, 295. 
Temple  Bay,  Lab.  227. 
Tennant's  Cove  42. 
Thoroughfare  The  48. 
Three  Rivers  307. 
Three  Tides,  P.  E.  I.  174. 
Three  Towers,  N.  F,  211. 
Thrumcap  Shoal  93. 
Tickle  Cove  203 
Tiduish,  N.  S.  78. 
Tignish,  P.  E,  I.  180. 
Tilt  Cove  205,  211. 
Tilton  Harbor  210. 
Toad  Cove  197. 
Tobique,  N.  B.  64. 
Tolt  Peak  217. 
Tomkecigwick  River  69. 
Topsail,  N.  F.  206. 
Torbay,  N,  F,  196,  200. 
Tor  Bay,  N.  S.  134. 
formeDtine,  Cape  174. 
Torrent  Point  227. 
Tracadie,  N.  B.  62. 
Tracadie,  N.  S,  139, 
Tracadie,  P.  E.  I.  161. 
Tracadiegash  67,  239. 


Tracy's  Tiake  71, 
Tracy's  Mills,  38. 
Traverse,  Cape  174. 
Tremont,  N.  S.  89. 
Trepa8.sey,  N.  F  213, 
Trinitv,N.  F.  201. 
Trinity  Bay  208,201. 
Trinity,  Cape  303. 
Trinity  Cove  1(». 
Trois  Pistoles  261. 
Trois  Rivieres  307. 
Trou  St.  Patrice  290. 
Trouty,  N.  F.  210. 
Truro,  N.  S,  81, 
rr\on,  P,  E  1. 174. 
Tusket  Ids.  125, 115. 
Tuskct  Lakes  115. 
Tweednogie,  C,  B,  148. 
Tweedside,  N.  B.  38. 
Twillingate,  N.  F,  205. 

Ungava  Bay  226, 
Upper  Caraquctte  C6. 
Upper  Gagetown  43. 
Upper  Musquodoboit  82, 
Upper  Queensbury  52. 
Upsalquitch  River  69. 
Utopia,  Lake  32. 

Van  Burcn,Me.  56. 
Vanceboro,  Me.  38, 
Varennes,  P.  Q.  308. 
Veazie,  Me.  39. 
Venison  Id.  225, 
Vernon  River  181. 
Victoria  53, 
Victoria  Line  168. 
Victoria  Mines  152. 
Virginia  Water  195. 

Wallace  Valley  80. 
Walrus  Id,  231, 
Walton  106,  93. 
Wapitagun  Har,  230. 
Wapskehegan  River  54. 
Ward's  Harbor  211, 
Wasbademoak  I^ake  47. 
Wash-shecoctai  231 
Watagheistic  Sound  230 
Watchabaktchkt  164. 
Watt  June,  37. 
Waverley  Mines  82. 
Waweig,  N.  B.  36, 
Welchpool,  N.  B,  25. 
Wellington  179. 
Welsfofd,  N,  B,  38. 
^Ventworth,  N.  S.  80. 
West  Bay,  C,  B,  165, 
Westchester,  N.  S.  80. 
Westfield,  N.  B.  41. 
West  Isles  31. 
West  Point  179. 
West  Port,  N.  S.  117. 
West  River  226. 


-i^VW.J^^   PM  I 


332 


INDEX. 


h :  i 


Weymouth,  N.  S.  112. 
Whale  Cove  29. 
White  Bay  221. 
White  Haven  134. 
White  Horse  31. 
White's  Cove  49. 
WhycocomaKh,  C.  B.  167. 
W'icliham,  42,  47. 
Wicklow,  N.  B.  53. 
Wiggins  Cove  49. 


William  Henry  308. 
Wiluiot  Si)ring.>^  H9. 
Wilson's  15eafli  25. 
Wilton  Grove  21H. 
Wind.sor,  N.  S.  91,101. 
Windsor  June.  82,  93. 
Windsor  Lake  J  95. 
Wine  Harbor  133. 
Wiseman's  Cove  221. 


Witless  Bay,  N.  1. 197. 
Wolf  River  231. 
Wolfville  107,  91. 
Wolves,  The  25,  31. 
Wood  IMllar  2r)3. 
Woodstock  50,  37. 

Yarmouth,  N.  3.  114, 125. 
York  River  174. 


m 


Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions. 


•i-'  ! 


I  :       1 


,    .    > 


^'|f 


Acadian  Exiles  108, 113, 131 
Annapolis  Royal,  N  S.  86. 
Antico.sti,  P.  Q.  234. 
Aukpaque,  N.  U.  46. 
Avalon,  N.  P.  198. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65 
Bay  Bulls,  N.  P.  197. 
Bay  of  Chaleur  65. 
Beaubassiu  and  Bcauscjour 

78. 
Bic  Island,  P.  Q.  250. 
Bras  d'Or,  C.  B.  165. 
Br.beuf,  Pere  266. 
Brest,  Lab.  230. 
Campobello  Id.,  N.  B.  26. 
Canada,  Lower  235. 
Canada,  the  name  of  245. 
Canso,  N.  S.  144. 
Cape  Breton  149. 
Cape  Breton  (old  Province) 

141. 
Cape  Broylo,  N.  F.  197. 
Cape  Chattt:,  P.  Q.  249. 
Cape  Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Cape  d'Or,  N.  S.  104. 
Cape  Sable,  N.  S.  123 
Cape  Sambro,  N.  S.  118. 
Caraquotte,  N.  B.  66. 
Carbonear,  N.  P.  208. 
Cartier's  Voyages  193,  204, 

245, 272,  293. 
Caughnawaga,  P.  Q.  319. 
Chaniplain,  Samuel  de  273. 
Charlottetown,  P.  E.  1. 176. 
Chateau,  Lab.  227. 
Chateau  Bigoi ,  P.  Q.  280 
Chateau  RicL  .i,  P.  Q  284. 
Chaumonot,  Tere  279. 
Chezzetcook,  N.  S.  131. 
Chicoutimi,  P.  Q.  300. 
Clare  Settlements,  N.  S.  113. 
Conception  Bay,  N.  P.  206. 
Constitution  and  Guerriere 

200. 
Cote'de  Beaupre  276. 
D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour  19, 

87, 122. 


D'Avaugour,  Baron  246. 

Dawson,  Dr.  J.  W.  138. 

Dead  Islands,  N.  P.  216. 

Eastport,  Me.  27. 

Esquimaux,  the  226. 

Perryland,  N.  P,  198. 

Port  La  Ilcve,  N.  S.  119. 

Ports  Lawrence  and  Cum- 
berland 78. 

Fort  Meductic,  N.  B.  62. 

Predoricton,  N.  B.  46. 

Prontcnac,  Count  de  262, 
273. 

Gasp6,  P.  Q.  244. 

Gilbert,  Sir  Humphrey  135, 
193. 

Glooscap  19,  41,  102,  106, 
120,  137,  144. 

Goat  Island,  N.  S.  85. 

Grand  Banks  199. 

Grand  Lake,  N.  B.  48. 

Grand  Manan  28. 

Grand  Pr6,  N.  S.  108. 

Guysborough,  N.  S.  134. 

Haliburton,  Judge  92. 

Halifax,  N.  S.  99. 

Huron  Indians  279,  289. 

Indian  Lorettc  279. 

Ingonish,  C.  B.  159. 

Isle  aux  Coudres  293. 

Isle  of  Orleans  288. 

Jemseg,  N.  B.  42. 

Jesuits,  the  261,  266,  275, 
281 . 

King's  College  92. 

Labrador  222,  223. 

Lachine,  P.  Q.  319. 

Lake  St.  John,  P.  Q.  301. 

Lake  Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Liverpool,  N.  S.  120. 

Lord's-Day  Gale   170,  153, 


185. 
Louisbourg,  C.  B.  154, 149. 
Lunenburg,  N.  8. 118. 
Madawaska,  N.  B.  57. 
Magdalen  Islands  184. 
iMahone  Bay,  N.  S.  128. 


Maugerville,  N.  B.  43. 
Micmac  Indians  68, 147 ,  163, 

244. 
Mingiin  Ids.,  Lab.  231. 
Miramicbi  District  63. 
MiscouId.,N.B.  64. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  317. 
Moravian  Missions  223. 
.Murray  Bay,  P.  Q.  k95. 
New  Brunswick  14. 
Newfoundland  187, 201, 202, 

204,222. 
Norsemen,  the  123, 204, 245. 
Nova  Scotia  76. 
Oromocto,  N  B.  43. 
Passamoquoddy  Bay  27. 
Penobscot  Indians  39. 
Perc;:-,  P.  Q.  243. 
Pictou,  N.  S.  137. 
Placentia,  N.  P.  21?. 
Pleasant  Point,  Mc.  27. 
Port  I.rfitour,  N.  S.  122. 
Port  Mouton,  N.  S.  121. 
Prince  Edward  Island  172. 
Quebec  272. 
Red  Indians  210, 218. 
Restigoucho  69. 
Richibucto  Indians  60. 
Riviere  du  Loup  296. 
Riviere  Quelle  252. 
Robervals,  the  301. 
Robin  &  Co.  240. 
Sable  Island  135. 
Saguenay  River  298. 
St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  285. 
St.  Anne's  Bay,  C.  B  158. 
St.  Augustin,  P.  Q.  306. 
St.  Croix  Island  34. 
St.  Joachim,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  John,  N.  B.  19. 
St.  John  River  40. 
St.  John's,  N.  F.  193. 
St.  Mary's  Bay  112. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
St.  Paul's  Island  160. 
St.  Peter's,  C.  B.  146. 
St.  Pierre,  Miq.  180 


B* 


* 


^  N.  l\  197. 

231. 
)7,  91. 
o  26,  31. 

2r)3. 
eO,  37. 

N.  3.  114, 125. 


I 


Srottfph  Migration  164. 
Sillery,  P.  Q.  281. 
Sorcl,  P.  Q.  308. 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle  220. 
Sydney,  C.  B.  161. 
Sydney  Coal-Mines  153. 


INDEX. 


Tadousnc,  V.  Q.  298,  299. 
Tilbury,  Wreck  of  the  148. 
Tropa-ssey,  N.  F  213 
Trois  Pistoles,  P.  Q.  251. 
Truro,  N.  8.81. 
Ursulines  of  Quebec  2G5. 


333 


Walker's  Expedition 

241. 
Wallis,  Admiral  100. 
iU'illianis,  Oen.  1(10. 
i  Windsor,  N  S.  Mi. 
I  Yarmouth,  N.  S.  114. 


233, 


Index  to  Quotations. 


ons. 

.  N.  B.  43. 

ians68,147,l63, 

,  Lab.  231. 
Mstrict  63 
N.  B.  64. 
.  Q.  317. 
issioiis  226. 
P.  Q.  kUS. 
viok  14. 

nd  187,201,202, 

^e  123, 204. 245. 

76. 

i  B.  43. 
ddy  Bay  27. 
ndians  39. 

243. 
.137. 
.  F.  21?. 
nt.  Me.  27. 

N.  S.  122. 
,  N.  S.  121. 
rd  Island  172. 

210, 218. 

59. 

idians  60. 

)up  296. 

e  252. 

eSOl. 

240. 

135. 

er298. 

«aupr6  285. 

y,  0.  B  158. 

P.  Q.  306. 

Id  34. 

?.  Q.  287. 

1.19. 

:40. 

F.  193. 

^12. 

292. 

ad  160. 

B.  146. 

.180 


I 


Alexander,  Sir  J.  E.  38,  58. 

Baillie,  T.  43. 

Ballantyne,  R.  M.  292. 

Beeclier,  Henry  Ward  258. 

Boucher  292. 

Bouchette,  R.  247,  278. 

Bougiinville  238. 

Bonnyca.stle,  Sir  R.  67, 195,  218. 

Brown,  Richard  141,  154,  155,  157,  159, 

166,  233. 
Buies,  Arthur  240,  243,  244,  248,  250. 
Cartier,  Jacques  204,  246,  288,  298. 
Champlain  124, 273,  295- 
Charlevoix  30,  77, 150, 158, 184,  204,  2S3, 

238,  247,  289,  293,  299,  300. 
Cojzens,  V.  S.  92,  96,  100,  111,  131,  140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Cremazie,  0. 247. 
Dawson,  J.  W.  102, 142. 
De  Costa,  B.  P.  28,  29,  30. 
De  Millc,  Prof  105. 
Dilko,  Sir  Charles  258,  259. 
Diifferin,  Lord  237. 
Feriand,  Abb6  232,  248,  283. 
Fiset,  L  J.  C.  247. 
Gesner,  Dr.  A.  B.  32,  36,  43,  56. 
Gilpin,  Dr.  134. 
Gordon,  Hon.  Arthur  51,  52,  53,  55,  56, 

62,  67. 
Grey  247. 

Haliburton,  Jud^e  90.  91, 109,  111,  113. 
Ilallock,  Charles  67,  TC,  103, 126, 127,128, 

129, 130, 169, 170,  225, 227,  240,  301. 
TTumilton,  88. 
Hardy,  Capt.  129, 130, 131. 
Hawkins's  Quebec  266,  259,  261,  272. 
Hcriot,  George  279,  284. 
Hind,  Prof.  232,233. 
Howells,  W.  D.  260,  268,  276,  278,  2'iK), 

281,302,303. 
Imray's  Sailing Directiovs'Z,  158,169,248. 
Johnston,  Prof.  J.  F.  W.  23,  31,  45,  57, 

71, 117. 
Jukes,  Prof.  J.  B.  189, 195, 196,  216, 218. 
Kalm  305. 
Kirke,  Henry  245. 
La  Hontan,  Baron  87,  212,  306. 
Lalcmaut,  Pere  249. 


Lanman,  Charles  68. 

Le  Moine,  J.  M.  268,  264,  280,  294. 

Lescarbot,  M.  34,  85,  86,  201. 

London  Times  257,  298,  304. 

Longfellow,  H.  W.  109,  110,  111,  113. 

Lowell,  R.  T.  S.  187. 

McCrea,  Lt.-Col.  193,  195,  197. 

Marmier,  X.  267. 

Marshall,  C.  278,  286. 

Martin,  M.  164. 

M'Gregor,  John  19,  42,  117, 128, 166. 

Moore,  Tom  184.  320. 

Moorson,  Capt.  116, 118, 122. 

Murdoch,  B.  75,  109,  122, 155. 156. 

Noble,  Rev.  L.  L.  30,  91,  103,  141,  160, 

189, 193, 196,  204,  219,  221,  223,  224, 

228. 
Novvs  Orhis  125. 
Parkman,  Francis  237, 245,  262, 266, 275, 

279,  285,  288. 
Perley,  M.  H.  182. 
Ranieau.  M.  238,  277. 
Rocsevelt,  R.  B.  66. 
Routhier,  A.  B.  252. 
Sagas  of  Iceland  123,  204. 
Sand,  Maurice  186.  266. 
Scott,  G.  C.  8,  36,  200. 
Shirley,  Gov.  274. 
Silliman,  Prof  238,  267,  267,  277. 
Stedman.  R.  H.  170. 
Strauss,  231 

Sutherland,  Rev.  George  178, 180. 
Tach«5  261.  299. 
Taylor's    Canadian  Handbook  242,  248, 

251  282  319 
Taylor, 'Bayard  277,  291,  292,  293,  297, 

304. 
Thoreaii,  H.  D.  237,  238,  246,  257,  267, 

276,  277, 283,  284,  287,  309,  312. 
Trudelle  292. 
Voltaire  274. 

Warburton,  Eliot  190, 195,  234,  256. 
Warner,  Charles  Dudley,  20,  25,  26,  84, 

86,  91,  92,  96, 107, 138, 140, 158,  162, 

165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. 
Whitburne,  Capt  187. 
White,  John,  278,  298, 303. 
Whittier,  John  G.  21, 65,  209, 224, 230. 


334 


INDEX. 


Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboat  Lines. 


European  and  North  American  37. 

Grand  Trunk  305. 

Intercolonial  70,  78. 

New  Brunflwick  41). 

New  Brunswick  and  Canada  3!}. 


PasinofMinaslOl. 
Bras  d'Or,  161. 
Conception  Bay  (N.  F.)  206. 
Easlport  25. 
Grand  Lake  48. 
Halifax  to  Sydney  148. 
Labrador  224. 
Magdalen  Islands  183. 
Moisic  River  (Labrador)  229. 
Newfoundland  188,  148. 
Nortliern  Coastal  (N.  F.)  200. 
North  Shore  (N.B.)  60. 


Pictou  Branch  136. 

Prince  Edward  Island  177, 180, 182. 

Quebec  and  Oosford  266. 

Shcdiac  Branch  59. 

Windsor  and  Annapolis  83. 


Pa8.samaquoddy  Bay  25j_30. 
Prince  Edward  Island  lr4, 176. 
Quehec  and  Gulf  Porta  238,  60. 
Quouc**  to  Cacouna  291. 
Ilichelieu  (St.  Lawrence)  306. 
Saguenay  River  291,  297. 
St.  .John  River  39,  51,  63. 
St.  Pierre  (Mlq.)  185. 
Union  (St.  Lawrence)  305. 
Washademoak  I^ake  47. 
Western  Outports  213. 
Yarmouth  and  Ilalifax  117. 


b^ 


Authorities  Consulted  in  the  Preparation  of  this  Volume. 

The  Editor  acknowledges  his  obligations  to  the  officers  of  the  Boston  Athenocum , 
the  Parliament  Library  at  Ilalifax,  the  Colonial  Library  at  Charlottetown,  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute  at  St.  .lohn,  and  the  libraries  of  Parliament,  of  the  Laval  Uni- 
ver.«lty,  of  the  Institut  Canadien,  and  of  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  of 
Quebec. 

New  Brunswick,  with  Notes  for  Er.     mnts ;  by  Abraham  Gesncr,  M.  D.    (1847.) 

Geology  of  New  Brunswick,  etc. ;  b>  Dr.  Gcaner. 

New  Brunswick  and  its  Scenery  ;  by  Jno.  R.  Hamilton.    (St.  John,  1874.) 

Account  of  New  Brunswick  ;  by  Thomas  Balllle.    (London,  1832.) 

Handbook  for  Emigrants  to  New  Brunswick ;  by  M.  H.  I'erley.    (St.  John,  1854.) 

Mount  Desert ;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 

History  of  New  Brunswick ;  by  Cooney. 

Nouveau  Brunswick  ;  by  E.  Ilegnault.    (Paris.) 

History  of  Maine ;  by  James  Sullivan,  LL.  D.    (1795.) 
History  of  Maine ;  by  W.  D.  Williomson.    (2  vols. ;  1839) 
Transactions  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

Letters  from  Nova  Scotia ;  by  Captain  Moorson.    (London,  1830.) 

Travels  In  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  ;  by  J.  S.  Buckingham,  M.  P. 

Forest  Life  In  Acadle;  by  Capt.  Campbell  Hardy.    (London.) 

The  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Ilallock.    (Now  York,  1873.) 

Acadia ;  or  A  Month  among  the  Bluenoses ;  by  Frederick  S.  Cozzens.    (New  York, 

1859.) 
The  Neutral  French  ;  a  Story  of  Nova  Scotia. 
The  Lily  and  the  Cross :  by  Prof.  De  Mllle. 
The  Boys  of  Grand  Pre  School ;  by  Prof.  De  Mllle. 
The  Clock-Maker ;  Isy  Judge  T.  C.  Hallburton. 
The  Old  Judge ;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Hahburton. 

The  Pre-Columbian  Discovery  of  America ;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 
Acadian  G-^ology  ;  bj  J.  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.    (Halifax,  1855.) 
On  the  Mineralogy  and  Geology  of  Nova  Scotia  ;  by  Dr.  A.  Gesncr. 
An  Historical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Nova  Scotia ;  by  T.  C.  Haliburton,  D.  C.  L., 

M  P.    (2  vols. ;  Halifax,  1829.) 
History  of  Nova  Scotia,  or  Acadle;  by  Beamish  Murdoch,  Q.  C.    (3  vols. ;  Halifax, 

1865.) 
A  General  Description  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Halifax.  1823.) 
Account  of  the  Present  State  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Edinburgh^  1780.) 


i       i 


INDEX. 


335 


B. 

(7, 180, 182. 
83. 


30. 
4, 175. 

38,  60. 


805. 


17. 
Volume. 

iton  Atbenaenm, 
tctown,  the  Me- 
■  the  Laval  Uni- 
rical  Society,  of 

D.    (1847.) 
1874.) 
John,  1854.) 


[.P. 

i.   (New  York, 


fork.) 

rton.D.  C.  L., 
ols. ;  Halifax, 


A  History  of  tho  Island  of  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Richard  Brown,  F.  G.  S.,  F.  R.  0.  S. 

(London, 1869.) 
Importance  and  AdvantaRes  of  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Wm.  Bollan.    (London,  1746.) 
Letters  on  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Thomiw  Pichon.    (London,  17(30.) 
Baddeck,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing ;  by  Charles  Dudley  Warner.    (Boston,  1874.) 

Prince  Edward  Island  ;  i  y  Rev.  Gcorjre  Sutherland.    (Charlo»totown,  1861.) 
Progress  and  Prospects  of  Prince  Edward  Island ;  by  C  B.  Bagster.  (Charlottctown, 

1861.) 
Travels  in  Prince  Edward  Island ;  by  Walter  Johnstone.    (Edinburgh,  1824.) 

A  Concise  History  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  F.  R.  Page.    (London,  1860.) 

History  of  tho  Qovernment  of  Newfoundland ;  by  Chief  Justice  John  Reeve.    (Lon- 

don,  1793.) 
Catechism  of  the  HLstory  of  Newfoundland ;  by  W.  C.  St.  John.    (Boston,  1855.) 
Pedley's  History  of  Newfoundland. 
Anspach's  History  of  Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland  in  1842  ;  by  Sir  R.  H.  Bonnycastlo.    (2  vols. ;  Ix)ndon,  1842.) 
Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Rosamond;  by  Lieut.  Chappell,  R.  N.    (London,  1818.) 
Lost  amid  the  Fogs;  by  Lieut.-Col.  McCrea,  Royal  Artillery.    (London,  1869.) 
The  New  Priest  of  Conception  Bay  ;  by  R.  T.  S.  Lowell.     (Boston,  1838.) 
Excursions  in  and  about  Newfoundland  by  Prof.  J.  B.  Jukes.    (2  vols. :  London, 

1842.) 
Geological  Survey  of  Newfoundland  for  1873 ;  by  Alex.  Murray,  F.  0.  S.  (St.  John's, 

1874.) 
After  Icebergs  with  a  Painter ;  by  Rev.  L.  L.  Noble.    (New  York,  18C0.) 

A  Voyage  to  Labrador;  by  L'Abbd  Ferland.    (Quebec.) 

Notes  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador  ;  by  Robertson.    (Quebec.) 

Explorations  in  the  Interior  of  the  Labrador  Peninsula ;  by  Prof.  H.  Y.  Hind,  F.  R. 

G.  S.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1863.) 
Sixteen  Years*  Residence  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador ;  by  George  Cartwright.  (8  vols. ; 

Newark,  1792.) 
A  Summer  Cruise  to  Labrador ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    In  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol. 

XXIL 

History  and  General  Description  of  New  Franco ;  by  Father  P.  F.  X.  Charlevoix.  (6 

vols. ;  in  Shea's  translation  ;  New  York,  1872.) 
Histoire  de  la  Nouvelle  France ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.    (1609  ;  Paris,  1866  ;  3  vols.) 
Cours  d'Histoire  du  Canada ;  by  L'Abb<5  Ferland. 
Histoire  dc  la  Colonie  Francaise  en  Canada ;  by  M.  Faillon.  (3  vols. :  Ville-Marie  [Mon- 

treall,  1865-6). 
History  of  Canada ;  by  F.  X.  Gameau.    (Bell's  translation  ;  Montreal,  1866.) 
History  of  Canada ;  by  John  MacMullen.    (Brockville,  1868.) 
Novus  Orbis ;  by  Johannes  de  Laet.    (Leyden,  1638.) 
Lea  Relations  d^s  Jesuits. 

Lower  Canada ;  by  Joseph  Bouchette.    (London,  1815.) 

British  Dominions'  in  North  America ;  by  Joseph  Bouchette.  (2  vols. ;  London,  1832.) 
British  America ;  by  John  M'Gregor.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1832.) 
La  France  aux  Colonies  ;  by  M.  Rameau.    (Paris,  1859.) 
Le  Canada  au  Point  de  Vue  Economique  ;  by  Louis  Strauss.    (Paris,  1867. ) 
Hochelaga,  or  England  in  the  New  World ;  by  Eliot  Warburton.  (2  vols. ;  New  York. 

1846.)  y  y  t 

The  Conquest  of  Canada;  by  Eliot  Warburton.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1849.) 

The  First  English  Conquest  of  Canada  ;  by  Henry  Kirke.    (London,  1871.) 

The  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World ;  by  Francis  Parkman.    (Boston,  1865.) 

The  Jesuits  of  North  America  ;  by  Francis  Parkman. 

The  Old  Regime  in  Canada ;  by  Francis  Parkman.   (Boston,  1874.) 

Histoire  du  Canada;  by  Gabriel  Sagard.    (4  vols.  ;  Paris,  1866.) 

Sketches  of  Celebrated  Canadians  ;  by  Henry  J.  Morgan.    (Montreal,  1865  )  -^ 

Hawkins's  New  Picture  of  Quebec.    (Quebec,  1834.) 

Reminiscences  of  Quebec.    (Quebec ,  1858 . ) 

Decouverte  du  Tombeau  de  Champlain ;  by  Laverdi6re  and  Casgndn.  (Quebec.  1866. ) 

Maple  Leaves ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.    (Quebec.) 


336 


INDEX. 


■■  tl 


ir    ' 


!  .!• 


] 
1 

I 
I 

I 
I 


r 

T 
F 
T 
A 

Tl 
Tl 
Tl 
Tl 
Tl 
Tl 
Ac 
Oc 
A& 

Ilii 

Af 

Ac. 


Letters  Rur  I'Ameriquo ;  by  X.  Marmlcr.    (Paris.) 

Account  ofa  Journey  between  Hartford  and  Quebec  ;  by  Prof.  B.  Sllliman.    (1820.) 

Taylor's  Canauian  Handbook.    (Montreal.) 

English  America;  by  S.  P.  Day.     (2  vols  ;  London,  18C4.) 

Three  Years  in  Canada  ;  by  John  MacTaggart.    (2  vols.  ;  London,  1829.) 

Western  Wanderings;  by  W.  H.  0.  Kingston.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1850.) 

Sketches  of  Lower  Canada  ;  by  Joseph  Sanson.    (New  York ,  1817.) 

The  Canadian  Dominion  ;  by  Charles  Marshall.    (London,  1871.) 

Five  Years'  llesidencc  in  the  Canadoii ;  by  E.  A.  Talbot.     (2  vols. ;  London,  1824.) 

Sketches  from  America  ;  by  John  White.    (London,  1870.) 

Travels  through  the  C.madaa  ;  by  George  Heriot.    (London,  1807.) 

British  Posses.sions  ;  In  M.Smith.     (Baltmiore,  1814.) 

Adventures  in  the  Wilds  of  America  ;  by  Charles  Lanman.    (2  vols. ;  Philadelphia, 

1856.) 
Pine-Forests  ;  by  Lieut  -Col.  Sleigh.     (London,  1853.) 
The  travels  of  Hall,  Lyell,  Trollope,  Dickens,  Johnston,  etc. 
Bref  Uecitet  Succincte  Narration  de  la  Navigation  falte  en  MDXXXV.  et  MDXXX7I. 

par  le  Capltaine  Jacques  Cartier.     (Paris,  1863  ) 
The  Principal  Navigations,  Voyages,  etc.,  of  the  English  Nation  ;  by  Richard  Ilak- 

luyt.    (1589-1600.) 
Lea  Voyages  di  la  Nouvelle  f'rance,  etc. ;  by  Samuel  de  Champlain.    (1632 ;  Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation  dii  Voyage  au  Port  Royal ;  by  M.  Di^revllle.     (Amsterdam,  1710.) 
'Vouveaux  Voyages,  etc. ;  by  the  Baron  La  Hon  tan.    (1703;  Ix)ndon,  1736  ) 
Relation  Originalo  du  Voyage  de  Jacques  Cartier.    (Paris,  1867.) 
Memoires,  Relations,  et  Voyages  de  D(^couverte  au  Canada.    (Quebeci  1838.) 
Voyage  to  Canada ;  by  Father  Charlevoix.     (London,  1763  ) 
Six  Millc  Lieues  A  Toute  Vapeur ;  by  Maurice  Sand.    (Paris.) 
Greater  Britain  ;  by  Sir  Charles  Dllke. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  by  R.  M.  Ballantyne. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions.    (London  ) 

Journal  ofa  Voyage  to  the  Coast  of  Gaspi:  ;  by  L'Abb6  Ferland.    (Quebec.) 
The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  ;  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
Le  Chercheur  de  Tr^sors  ;  by  Ph.  Aubert  de  Gasp^  fils.    (Quebec,  1863.) 
Chronlques  Humeurs  et  Caprices  ;  by  Arthur  Buies.    (Quebec,  1873.) 
Les  Anciens  Canadiens  ;  by  Philippe  Aubert  de  Gasp^.    (Quebec,  1864.) 
L'Album  du  Tourlste  ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
The  Blockade  of  Quebec  ;  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.    (Quebec,  1872.) 
Journal  of  the  Siege  of  Quebec  ;  by  Gen.  James  Murray.    (Quebec,  1871 ) 
The  Expedition  against  Quebec  ;  by  "  A  Volunteer."    (Quebec,  18«2.) 
Chateau  Bigot ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine,     (Quebec,  1874.) 
A  Chance  Acquaintance ;  by  W.  D.  Howells.     (Boston,  1873.) 
A  Yankee  In  Canada;  by  Henry  D.  Thoreau.    (Boston,  18^.) 
La  Littdrature  Canadienne.    (2  vols. ;  Quebec,  1863-4.) 
Soirees  Canadienncs.     (2  vols. ;  Quebec,  1861.) 
Travels  In  New  Brunswick;  by  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon.    (In  Varalion  Tourists  fori 

1862-3,  London.) 
Field  and  Forest  Rambles ;  by  A.  Leith  Adams.     (London,  1S73.) 
L'Acadie,  or  Seven  Years'  Explorations  in  British  North  America ;  by  Sir  Jainpj| 

E.Alexander.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1849.) 
Game-Fish  of  the  North  and  the  British  Provinces ;  by  R.  B.  Roosevelt.    (Ncwl 

York,  1865 ) 
Fishing  in  American  Waters  ;  by  Qenio  C.  Scott.    (New  York.) 
The  American  Angler's  Guide;  by  Norris.    (New  York.) 
Fish  and  Fishing ;  by  H.  W.  Herbert  ("  Frank  Forrester '').    (New  York,  1850.) 
Tlie  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    (New  York,  1873.) 
Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvelle  France  ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.    (Paris,  1609.) 
Evangeline,  a  Tale  of  Acadle ;  by  Henry  W.  Longfellow.    (Boston,  1847.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  John  6.  Whittier.     (Boston.) 
The  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay ;  by  Charles  Sangster     (Kingston. ) 
Essals  Poetiques  ;  by  Leon  Pamphile  Le  May.     (Quebec,  1866.) 
Mes  Loisirs  ;  by  Louis  Honore  Frechette.    (Quebec.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  0.  Cremazio,  J.  Lenoir,  and  L.  J.  G.  Fiaet.    (Quebec.) 


r.  B.  Siniman.    (1820.) 

idon,  1829.) 
don,  I860.) 
1817.) 

171.)  inni  \ 

vols. ;  London,  1824.) 

1807.) 

(2  vols. ;  Philadelphia, 

XXXV.etMDXXXTI. 

itlon  ;  by  Richard  Ilak- 

auiplain.    (1632 ;  Paris, 

stcrdam,  1710.) 
London,  1736) 

(Quebec,  1838.) 
0 


land.    (Quebec.) 
^c,  1872.) 
iuebec,i863.) 
!bec,  1873.) 
luebec,  1864.) 

EC,  1872.) 
(Quebec,  1871 ) 
iebec,1872.) 

73.) 
62.) 

CTn  Varation  Tourists  for 

1S73.^ 
i  America ;  by  Sir  Jamf  i 

y  E.  B.  Roosevelt.    (New 

').    (New  York,  1860.) 

1873.) 

Paris,  1609.) 
(Boston,  1847.) 

sr    (Kingston.) 
1865.) 

0.  Fiset.    (Quebec.) 


AIAP  OF  THE 

MJillMilE  .PieflllCiS. 

WITH  NEWFOUNDLAND   &  LABRADOR. 

rVIlLISskD  TO  ACCOMPANY 

The  Maritime  Provmces :  aHaiidbook  for  Travellers" 
JAAIESR. OSGOOD  &  C9  BOSTON  ALISS. 


U 


PreparedbyGiaCaColtanJfcWlTSMllliamSfJfewYork. 


LONGITUDE     E«tT    17    mOM    WASHINOTON 


21 


23 


i 

"  1 

ill        r 

iff    ■  ^ 

ni 

j 

1 

t 

• 

t' 

i 

\ 
1 

■ 

fr 

;.    -     ' 

...  •'  , 

> 

i'. 


1^ 

r 


■  I' 


i      !      I; 


:rl! 


a 
a 

1 

it 

0 
A 

IJ 

A 
A 


F'^ 


i  ! 


I 


i  j 


I' 

ffi. 


1^^ 


i, 
% 

1 


A 


>V5 


4> 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Page 
ALLAN  LINE  OF  STEAMSHIPS 3d  page  cover 

BAEDEKER'3  EUROPEAN  GUIDE-BOOKS     .       .       .  lacing  title-page 

BOOKS  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL 23 

BOOKS  OF  EUROPEAN  TRAVEL 22 

BOSTON,  HALIFAX,  AND  PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND  STEAM- 
SHIP LINE 13 

5  BRADFORD  AND  ANTHONY  (Boston) ....       facing  title-page 

]  BRAS  D'OR  STEAMBOAT 20 

I  CENTRAL  VERMONT  RAILROAD  LINE 4 

!  CHALONER,  J.  (St.  John) 7 

(   COOK'S  EXCURSIONS  AND  TOURS 8,  9 

i  EASTERN  AND  MAINE  CENTRAL  RAILROAD  LINE 
i                                                                                      2d  page  cover  and  page  facing  it 
EASTERN  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY  (Newfoundland)    ....    16 
EXPRESS  LINE  STEAMERS  (St.  John  River) 6 

INTERCOLONIAL  RAILWAY 2,  3 

INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO.  (Boston  to  St.  John)       .       .        17 
ISLAND  PARK  HOTEL  (Summerside  P.  E.  I.) 12 

LITTLE  CLASSICS 24 

NORTH  SHORE  STEAMSHIP  (New  Brunswick) 6 

OSGOOD'S  AMERICAN  GUIDE-BOOKS 

1st  page  colored  slip  back  of  book 

PORTLAND  AND  HALIFAX  STEAMSHIP u 

PORTLAND  ST3AM-PACKET  CO 10 

PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND  STEAMSHIPS   .        .        .        .        .        .18 

QUEBEC  AND  GUXF  PORTS  STEAMSHIPS 19 

ST.  LOUIS  HOTEL  (Quebec) facing  3d  page  cover 

BAUNTERER'S  SERIES 21 

8IRC0M  &  MARSHALL  (Halifkx,  N.  S.)   .       .       .       ....      7 

TRAVELERS'  INSURANCE  COMPANY e 

|PNION  LINE  STEAMERS  (Bay  of  Fundy  and  St.  John  River)     .        .    15 

%AilNER'S  WRITINGS 12 

priNDSOR  &  ANNAPOLIS  RAILWAY 14 


?   f 


,''  I 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


INTERCOLONIAL   RAILWAY. 

1875. 

>.«< 

Through  All  Bail  Line 

BETWEEN 

HALIFAX  &  PICTOU,  N.  S., 

AND 

ST.  JOHN  AND  SHEDIAC,  N.  B. 


CONNECTIONS. 

AT  HAIilPAX  — with  steamships  to  and  from  England,  Newfoundland,  Ber- 
muda, and  West  Indies,  and  also  with  steamers  for  all  ports  on  the  western  shore 
of  Nova  Scotia. 

AT  WINDSOR  JUNCTION  — with  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Railway,  for 
Windsor  and  all  places  in  the  Annapolis  Valley,  and  thence  by  stages  to  all  places 
in  the  western  portion  of  Nova  Scotia. 

AT  PICTOU  li ANDING  —  with  steamers  to  and  from  Prince  Edward 
Island,  Gape  Breton,  Shediac,  Miramicbi,  Restigouch^,  Gaspfe,  Quebec,  and 
Montreal. 

AT  POINT  DUCHENE  CShediac>  —  with  steamers  for  Charlottetown, 
Sunimersldo,  Georgetown,  P.  E.  I, ;  Pictou,  Port  Hood,  Port  Ilawkesbury. 
With  steamers  of  Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  S.  S.  Co.,  for  the  ports  on  the  north  shore 
of  New  Brunswick,  and  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  Father  Point,  Quebec,  and  Montreal. 

AT  ST.  JOHN  —  with  the  Consolidated  European  and  North  American  Rail- 
way, for  Frcdericton,  St.  Andrews,  St.  Stephens,  Calais,  Woodstock,  and  Bangor. 

AT  BANGOR  connections  are  made  with  the  Eastern  and  Maine  Central  for 
Augusta,  Portland,  Boston,  New  York,  and  all  points  in  the  United  States;  and 
also,  via  Danville  Junction,  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  for  Quebec,  Montreal, 
0tta;7a,  Toronto,  and  the  West.  With  the  International  S.  S.  Co.,  for  Eastport, 
Portland,  and  Boston. 

STAGE  CONNECTIONS  at  New  Glasgow,  Londonderry,  Shediac,  Moncton, 
Salisbury,  and  Petitcodiac. 

THROUGH  TICKETS  sold  to  principal  points  in  Canada,  the  United 
States,  and  along  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

BAGGAGE  CHECKED  THROUGH. 

PULLMAN  CARS  on  all  through  trains. 

J.  J.  WALLACE,  Auditor, 
(General  Passenger  Affent,  Moncton,  N.  B. 

R.  LUTTRELL, 

Assistant  Superintendent,  Moncton,  N.  B. 

C.  J.  BRYDGES, 

Superintendent  GoTernment  Railways. 


AD  VERTiaEMENTS. 


Time  Tables. 


id,  Newfoundland,  Ber- 
s  on  the  western  shore 

Lnnapolis  Railway,  for 
by  stages  to  all  places 

from   Prince  Edward 
Gaspb,   Quebec,   and 

lers  for  Charlottetown, 
>d,  Port  Ilawkcsbury. 
orts  on  the  north  shore 
Quebec,  and  Montreal. 

i  North  American  Rail- 
)dstock,  and  Bangor. 

I  and  Maine  Central  for  I 
the  United  States;  and 
for  Quebec,  Montreal, 
S.  S.  Co.,  for  Eastport, 

lerry,  Shediac,  Moncton, 

in  Canada,  the  United 


BOUND  EAST. 


LEA.VE. 


St.  John, 

Rothesay, 
Nauwigewauk, 
Hampton,   arrive, 
*'  leave, 

Passekeag, 

Norton, 

ApohaquI, 

Sussex, 

renubsquis, 

Ansi'mnce, 

FctK  odiac, 

Salisb  'v, 

Moncton,  arrive, 
*•         leave, 

Painsec  Junction, 

Memmmcook, 

Dorchester, 

Sackville, 

Aulac, 

Amherst, 

Maccan, 
Athol, 
Spring  Hill, 
River  Philip, 
Oxford, 
Thomson, 
Orponville, 
Wentworth, 
Londonderiy, 
Dcbert, 
Truro,    arrive, 
'*       leave, 
Brookfleld, 
Stewiacke, 
Shiibcnacadle, 
]MiIforrt, 
Elmsdale, 
Fnfleld. 
Wpllinjrton, 
Windsor  Junction, 

Bedford, 

Halifax,    arrive. 


■a.  s 

COS- 


A.  M. 

8.00 

8.23 
8.43 

8.56 
9.06 

9.24 
9.39 
10.00 
10.17 
10.40 
10.55 
11.20 

11.53 

12.00 

P.M. 

12.25 

12.55 

1.15 

1.45 

1.54 

2.27 

2.45 
2.55 
3.13 
3.41 
3.47 
3.67 
4.15 
4.30 
5.00 
5.13 
5.43 
6.05 
6.29 
6.58 
7.15 
7.26 
7.41 
7.47 
8.03 
8.28 

8.43 

9.07 


V.  M. 

8.00 

8.34 
8.55 

9.10 
9.20 

9.38 
9.55 
10.10 
10.27 
10.52 
11.07 
11.32 
A.  H. 
12.05 
12.10 

12.30 
1.15 
1.38 
2.14 
2.23 
2.46 

3.10 
3.22 
3.40 
4.08 
4.14 
4.24 
4.44 
4.59 
5.35 
5.47 
6.16 
6.30 
6.50 
7.15 
7.28 
7.40 
7.53 
7.58 
8.20 
8.45 

9.00 

9.20 


BOUND  WEST. 


LEAVE. 


A.  M. 

10.15 

10.51 
11.23 

11.43 

12.00 

P.  M. 

12.50 

1.14 

1.55 

2.20 

2.55 

3.17 

3.57 

4.35 
5.00 

5.45 

jjfi  3 

Cm' 

o  » 

er 


A.  H 

11 /.5 

11.47 

12.23 

12.45 

1.05 

1.22 

1.30 

2.00 

2.35 

2.55 

3.30 


Halifax, 

Bedford, 

Windsor  Junction, 

Wellington, 

Enfield, 

Elmsdale, 

Milford, 
Shubenacadle, 
Stewiacke, 
Brookfleld, 
Truro,    arrive, 
"       leave, 
Debert, 
Londonderry, 

Wentworth, 
Greenville, 
1  homson, 
Oxford, 
River  1  hillp, 
Srring  HiU, 
Athol, 

Maccan, 

Amherst,    arrive, 
"  leave, 

Aulac, 
Sackville, 
Dorchester, 
Memramcook, 
Painsec  Junction, 
Moncton.    arrive, 
"         leave, 

Salisbury, 
Pctitcodiac, 
Anagancc, 
Pcnobsquis, 
Sussex,   arrive, 

"        leave, 
Apohaqui, 
Norton, 
Passekeag, 
Hampton, 
Nanwigewauk, 
Rothesay, 
St.  John,    arrive. 


C_w 

A.  H. 

8.00 
8.20 
8.45 
9.05 
9.28 
9.34 

9.47 
9.58 
10.11 
10.35 
10.56 
11.00 
11.32 
11.46 

P.M. 

12.23 
12.38 
12.54 
1.04 
1.10 
1.42 
1.55 

2.05 
2.35 
2.45 


3.00 
309 
3.34 
ZM 
4.34 
4.54 
5.00 

5.33 
8.69 
6.14 
6.39 
6.55 

7.05 
7.17 
7.32 
7.f0 
8.00 
8.18 
8.24 
9.00 


£.5? 5.  a*;" 


9.44 
10.10 
10.18 
10.2tJ 
10.35 
11.02 
11.16 

11.27 
11.48 
11.58 

A«  H* 

12.11 
12.20 
VlJhb 
1.15 
1.50 
2.10 
2.15 

2.48 
3.12 
3.27 
3.52 


4.13 
4.25 
4.40 
4.57 
5.07 
5.19 
5.40 
6.C0 


ill 

»  B  3 

*"  >1  ST 

■og  S 
•  2,ui 

S 


A.  H. 

7.40 
8.U5 
8.20 

9.30 

10.05 

10.45 

11.20 

11.50 

P.  M. 

12.05 

12.25 

12.48 

1.17 

1.33 

1.53 

2.25 

3  00 


,  Auditor, 

at,  Moncton*  N.  B> 

ELL, 

at,  Moncton,  N.  B> 

)GES, 

rnment  Bailwajfl. 


Trains  leave  St.  John  at 8  a.m.,  reaching  Point  du  Chene  at  1.05  p.m.;  and  at 
10.15  A.  K.,  arriving  at  6.25  p.  m. 

Trains  leave  Point  du  Chene  at  6.45  a.  m.,  reaching  St.  John  at  3  a.m.;  and  at  3.45 
p.  M.,  arriving  at  9  p.  m. 

Trains  leave  Halifox  at  8  A.  m.,  reaching  Pictou  at  1.50  p.  m.;  and  at  9.45  A.  M.,  ar- 
riving at  7.05  p.  M. 

Trains  leave  Pictou  at  6.45  A.  m.,  reaching  Halifax  at  3.30  P.  M.;  and  at  3  P.  M.,  ar- 
riving at  9.07  P.  M. 


.'•'( 


i 


f 


Ifcn 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


Fnllmaii  Cars  and  all  Modem  ImproTements. 

CENTRAL  VERMONT  R.  R.  LINE. 


IS  THE 


Shortest,  Quickest,  and  Best  Route 

BOSTON  AND  MONTREAL, 

QUEBEC,  OTTAWA,  TORONTO, 
THE  ADIRONDAGKS, 

Thousand  Islands,  liRkes  Champlain,  George,  St.  Begls, 

Memphremiasoe, 


AND  SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

SS,  Alburgh,  Sheldon,  and  Clare 
also,  tlie 

GREEN  AND  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


Massena  Springs,  Alburgh,  Sheldon,  and  Clarendon  Springs; 

also,  tlie 


FOR 


Round  Trip  Excursions 

To  all  the  above  points,  also  the 

MARITIME   FROVINGES, 

Coal  and  Iron  Regions  of  PennsylTanla, 

NIAGARA  FALLS, 

Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul,  St.  I^ouls,  and  Colorado, 

Call  or  send  for  the        ' 

"SUMMER    EXCURSIONIST," 

WHICH   CONTAINS  OVER 

lOOO 

DIFFERENT  EXCURSIONS  TO  ALt  THE  PRINCIPAIi 

SUMMER  RESORTS. 

FOEE  ON  APPUCATION.    Tickets  and  full  information  at  all  the  principal  ticket-offices, 

and  at 

322  Washington  Street,-      -  Boston,  Mass. 

(Cor.  Milk  St.) 
T.  EDWARD  BOND,  Ticket  Agent. 

L.  MILLIS,  Gen.  Sup't  Traffic.  S.  W.  CUMMINGS,  Passenger  Agent. 

St.  Albans,  Vt. 


mmm 


AD  VERTIIEMENTS. 


se,  St.  Beslg, 


e3idon  Springs; 


EXPRESS  LINE  OF  STEAMERS! 

For  Frederioton! 

FAKE,  $  1.50. 

SAIIffT  JOHN  RIVER  tt 

THE  niGNinCENT  STEAHEB 

"  ROTHESAY  " 

WtU  leave  SAINT  JOHN  (Indlantown)  for  FBEDEBICTON, 

EVERY  MONDAY,  WEDNESDAY,  AND  FRIDAY, 

At  9  o'clock)  A.  M. 

RETURNINa  ALTERNATE  DAYS  AT  SAME  HOUR. 

The  Beautiful  Scenery  on  the  River  Saint  John  is  admired  by  all  Tourists ;  the 
distance  to  Fredericton  (84  miles)  is  quiclcly  run,  and  Excursionists  may  now  enjoy 
unsurpassed  accommodations  at  low  rates,  and  view,  in  a  few  hours,  some  of  the 
GRANDEST  SCENERY  on  one  of  the  FINEST  RIVERS  IN  THE  WORLD. 

NORTH  SHORE  STEAMER! 

UNDER  GOVERNMENT  CONTRACT. 


The  line  gea-going  Steamer 


Qi 


CITY  OF  ST.  JOHTSr " 


Passenger  Agent. 


Will  leave  Point  Du  Chene  (Shediac  Terminus  Intercolonial  Railway)  immediately  on 
arrival  of  Morning  Express  Train  from  St.  John, 

EVERY  THURSDAY, 

FOR 

RICHIBUCTO,  CHATHAM,  NEWCASTLE,  BATHURST, 
DALHOUSIE,  AND  CAMPBELLTON. 

Returnino,  — Leaves  Campbellton,  Dalhousie,  and  Bathurst  on  MONDAYS,  New- 
castle and  Chatham  on  TUESDAYS,  for  Shediac. 

Passengers  arrive  at  MIBAMTCHI  the  same  day  they  leave  Saint 

John. 

A  train  will  leave  Point  Du  Ghene  every  Tuesday  evening,  in  order  to  bring 
through  pussengers,  by  the  T.teamer  "City  of  St,  John,"  to  Saint  John,  in  time  to 
connect  with  all  lines  leaving  Saint  John  on  Wednesday  morning. 

To  the  lovers  of  the  beautiful  in  Nature,  a  trip  up  the  North  Shore  stands  almost 
unrivalled.  The  scenery  along  the  Bay  De  Chalenr  and  Restigouche  River  is  espe- 
cially picturesque  and  grand :  this,  combined  with  the  excellent  Jinking  to  be  had 
there,  makes  it  a  route  particularly  attractive  to  tourists  and  pleasure-seekers. 

OFFICE : 

41  Dock  Square,  St.  Jolin,  IST.  B. 
ENOCH  LUNT  &  SONS. 


^  I 


'i:\ 


i  i 


'  f 


li 


,■  I 


6 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


LARGEST  ACCIDENT  INSURANCE  COMPANY 

IN  THE  WORLD. 


iisrsuRE 


TOUR 


LIFE 


IN  THE 


INSURE 


AGAINST 


ACCIDENTS 


m  THE 


TRAVELERS  INSURANCE  CO. 


OF  HARTFORD,  CONN. 


liife  and  Endonrment  Insurance  of  the  best  forms  at 
Low  Cash  Rates. 

General  Accident  Policies  for  the  year  or  month,  writ- 
ten by  Agents. 

Permits  for  Foreign  Travel  or  Sea  Voyage  (under  accident  policies) 
furnished  on  application.  ► 

Apply  to  any  Agent,  or  write  to  the  Company,  at  Hartford,  Conn. 


JAS.  G.  BATTERSON,  President. 

RODNEY  DENNIS,  Sec'y.  JOHN  E.  MORRIS,  Ass't  Sec*y. 

Boston  Office,  221  Washington  Street ;  New  York  Office,  207  Broadway  ;  Montreal 
Office,  199  St.  Jamea  Street;  Chicago  Office,  84  La  Salle  Street. 


AD  VER  USE  HE  NTS, 


Broadway ;  Montreal 


SIRCOM  &  MARSHALL, 

(Successors  to  DUFFUS  &  CO.,  ^stabMed  1826) 

IMPORTERS   OF 

Silks,  Mantle  Velvets,  Laces,  Ribbons,  Shawls, 

Mantles,  Hosiery,  Gloves,  Haberdashery, 

Flowers,  &c. 

General  Household   Goods,  Mourning  Goods, 
Wedding  Outfits,  &c. 


New  No.  155  GRANVILLE  STREET,    Old  No.  2, 
HALIFAX,  W,  S, 

VISITORS  TO  SL  JOHN,  N.  B., 

IN  WANT  OT  DBUOS,  ANILINE  AND  OTHER  DYES, 

Fancy  Brushes,   Soaps,  Perftimes, 

AND  ALL  OTHEB  GOODS  IN  THE  LINE, 

WILL  FIND  A  rmST-QUALITT  ASSOETMENT  AT  THE 

STORE  OP 

J.  GHALiOnrXSR^ 

Cor.  King  and  Q-ermain  Streets. 


Vegetable  and  Flower  Seeds  in  Season.    Orders  promptly  for- 
warded.  Prescriptions  and  popular  Becipes  prepared. 


n 


It  I! 


■■: 


^r' 


1 , , 

'A 

1  I  ; 


HI 


I' 


f|  5 


n 


:li:- 


I 


li  '  I 


:  I 


\l  !  ': 


^,i  -  t 


r!      ■; 


8 


AH  VER  TISE  MEATS. 


COOK'S 

EXCURSIONS,  TOURS,  AND  GENERAL  TRAVELLING 

ARRANGEMENTS. 


COOK,  SON»  &  JENKINS,  -    -  261  Broadway,  New  York. 
THOMAS  COOK  &  SON,  Fleet  Street,  London, 

FIONEERS,  IN  AUGUR  ATORS,  aud  PROMOTERS  of  the  principal  SyBtema  of 
Tours  established  in  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  and  the  Continent  of  Europe,  have 
opened  Branches  of  their  House  in  America,  and  are  now  giving  increased  attention 
to  ordinary  travelling  arrangements,  wfth  a  view  t» 

RENDERING  IT  EASY,  PRACTICABLE,  AND  ECUiOMICAL 

During  the  past  thirty-five  years,  over  four  million  travellers  have  visited  near 
and  distant  points,  under  their  management^  safely  and  pleasantly,      r 

Their  arrangements  are  now  so  extensive,  that  they  cover  portions  of  the  fonr 
iiuarters  of  the  glob&.'  At  their  office  in  New  York  can  be  found  the  Railway  and 
Steamship  Tickets  used  by  the  travellers  for  a  journey  through  alt  parts  of 

IRELAND,  GERMANY,  SPAIN,  THE  LEVANT, 

SCOTLAND,  BATARIA.  ITALY,  PALESTINE, 

ENGLAND,  AUSTRIA,  TURKEY,  INDIA, 

WALES,  HOLLAND,  EGYPT,  CHINA, 

FRANCE,  BELGIUM,  GREECE,  &c.» 

OR 

EUROPE,    ASIA,  AFRICA,  &  AMERICA. 

Sold,  in  all  cases,  at  reductions  from  ordinary  rates. 


FOR  AMERICA, 

MESSRS.  COOK,  SON,  &  JENKINS  have  for  three  years  past  fteen  engaged  in 
perfecting  in  this  country  their  system  of  Tours,  and  beg  to  announce  that  their 
Tickets  are  now  received  by  upwards  of  One  Hundred  and  Fifty  of  the  leading  Rail- 
ways and  Steamboat  Companies  of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

-      AT  THEIR  0FRCE8,    < 

now  established  at  the  places  named  below,  can  be  procured  complete  Sets  of  Tickets 
from  all  the  leading  business-centres,  to  travel  to  and  visit  all  the  places  of  Tourist 


AD  VER  TI  SEME  NTS. 


11 


GREAT  EXCURSION   ROUTE 

TO  THE  BRITISH  PBOVINGES. 

MAIL  STEAMSHIP  LINE  TO 


XX .A. Xj  X F  Jl. 2C ,    ig*.    S., 

CHABLOTTETOWN,  P.  E.  I., 
STRAIT  OF  GAN80,  AND  ISLAND  OF  CAPE  BRETON. 


The  Magnificent  New  Side-Wheel  Steamship 

A.I-M'BJLOTJ'r-XS:, 

(Built  Expressly  for  the  Route)  W.  A.  COLBY,  Commander, 

Having  splendid  Cabin  and  Statc-Room  Accommodations, 

WLL  LEAVE  PORTLAND  EVERY  SATURDAY  AT  5.30  P.M. 

(or  on  arrival  of  Train  leaving  Boston  at  noon) 


For  Halifax  Direct^ 


Beturningr,  will  leave  Halifax  on  TUESDAYS,  at  8.30  P.  M, 


Passengers  desiring  an  ail -water  trip  can  obtain  through  tickets  from  Boston 

via  Steamer  to  Portland. 

THROUGH   TICKETS   FOR  SALE 

In  New  York  on  board  the  Steamers  of  the  Fall  River,  Nonvich,  and  Stonington 
Lines,  and  also  at  the  office  of  the  Maine  Steamship  Co.,  Pier  38,  East  River ; 

In  Boston  at  the  Eastern  or  Boston  &  Maine  Railway  Stations,  and  on  board  the 
Steamers  for  Portland.  .     „ 

m^*  Passengers  are  landed  on  arrival  at  Portland  directly  to  tli9  Steamer  (tna 

Eastern  Railroad  only),  without  expense  or  transfer. 

EXCURSION  TICKETS  TO  HALIFAX  AND  RETURN 

For  sale  ia  Boston  at  134  Washhigton  Street,  and  at  the  Railway  Stations,  also  on 

board  the  Portland  Steamers. 

Ba^^ai^e  checked  through  from  Boston. 

State-Rooms  can  be  secured  in  advnncc  by  mall  or  by  application  at  the 

A  Rents'  Offices. 

WM.  WEEKS,  Ag't,    I  J.B.COYLE,Jr.,Gen.AK't,  I    GEO.  P.  BLACK,  Ag*t, 

India  Wharf,  Boston.     |      Franklin  Wbarf,  Portland.       |  Halifax,  N.  S.  i 


■*  < 


p, 


Si 

"I 


M    '      * 


It 


h 


W 


01 


Hi? 


:H}lJ! '  '^ 


l:j 


ylZ>  VEHTISEMtlNTS. 


SUMMER    RESORT. 


ISIiAIffD   PARK    HOTEII.^ 

SUMMERSIDE, 

!Prince    Ed^vard    Island. 


This  New  IIot»l,  accommodating  aboat  one  hundred  and  fifty  Rucsts,  will  open  Ist 
June.  It  contains,  in  addition  to  the  Hlccpin^;  aiiartnu  nt,s,  a  number  of  public  and 
private  Parlors,  Diiliard,  Heading,  Smoking,  barber's,  and  Bar  rooms.  Plcturesqurly 
situated  on  an  island,  one  hundred  and  forty  acres  in  extent.  In  Dedequc  Bay,  directly 
opposite  the  rising  town  of  Summersldc,  It  combines  the  retirement  insured  by  the 
insular  position  of  its  surroundings  with  equal  convenience  to  a  position  In  the  town. 
Beautiful  views  of  the  harbor  are  obtainable  from  the  windows  and  roof  of  the  Hotel, 
and  from  the  carriagc-drlvc  around  the  Island.  The  grounds  are  being  tastefully  laid 
out  with  walks  and  drives,  the  greater  part  being  left  finely  wooded.  Sca-Bathlng 
can  be  enjoyed  with  suitable  privacy  on  various  parts  of  the  beach  near  the  Hotel, 
dressing-rooms  having  been  constructed  for  the  purpose.  A  Ferry  Steamer,  belong- 
ing to  the  Hotel,  will  ply  frequently  to  and  from  Summerside,  and  will  regularly  meet 
all  steamers  from  Shediac  and  Charlottetown ;  and  can  be  made  available  for  pic- 
nics, fishing  and  shooting  parties,  and  pleasure  cxcureions  on  the  Bay.  Horses, 
carriages,  rowing  and  sail  boats,  always  on  hire.  Families  and  parties  can  have  con- 
tiguous suites  of  rooms,  if  required,  by  sending  a  reasonable  notice  beforehand. 

Terms,  S^>00  per  day.  Special  arranseiuents  can  be  made  for 
summer  residence. 

FRESH  OYSTERS  IN  ABUNDANCE. 

J.  L.  HOLMAN,  Proprietor. 

Summerside,  F.  E.  I.,  1875. 


BADDECK 

AND   THAT   SORT   OF   THING. 

By  Charles  Dudley  Warnbu,  author  of  •'  My  Summer  in  a  Garden,"  etc.  $1.00. 

"  For  perfect  drollery  of  situation  and  sentiment^  and  the  daintiest  surprises  of  fun, 
and  for  the  traveller's  good-humored  perception  of  aljsurditles  told  with  sprightlinc!?s 
and  the  most  charming  al>an(lon,  wc  account  Mr.  Warner's  description  of  his  pilgrim- 
age to  Baddeck  as  one  of  the  most  wittily  playful  things  in  our  literature  since  the 
*  Sentimental  Journey.' "  —  Christian  Union. ' 

Warner's  'My  Summer  in  a  Garden $  i  .00 

Warner's  Saunterings 1.50 

Warner's  Back-Log  Studies 2.00 

JC^"  Three  of  the  most  charmingly  humorous  books  in  American  (or  any  other) 
literature.  

%*  For  sale  hy  BookseJlers.    Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  hy  the  Publishers, 

JAMES  B.  OSGOOD  &  CO.,  Boston. 


T. 


md. 


rupsts,  will  open  Ist 
mbcr  of  public  and 
)ms.  Picturrsqurly 
doquo  Bay,  directly 
lent  insured  by  the 
osltlon  In  the  town, 
id  roofof  the  Hotel, 
being  tastefully  laid 
oded.  8ea-Bathlng 
ich  near  the  Hotel, 
ry  Steamer,  belong- 
wlll  regularly  meet 
e  available  for  plc- 
the  Bay.  Horses, 
irtles  can  have  con- 
Jeforehand. 
n  be  made  for 

roprietor. 


NG. 

en,"  etc.  ^1.00, 

8t  surprises  of  fUn, 
I  with  sprighfllness 
tlon  of  his  pilgrim- 
iterature  since  the 


•     .     .  $  1 .00 

.     .     .      1.50 

.     .     .      2.00 

can  (or  any  other) 

bt/  the  Publishers, 

iO.,  Boston. 


AD  VEUTIHEilEyrS. 


13 


A  CHEAP  AMD  DELIGHTFUL 

SUMMEB  TBIF. 

Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island 

Steamship  Line. 


Boston  to  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I., 

STOPPING  AT 

HALIFAX,  PORT  HAWKE8BURY,  G.  B.,  &  PICTOU,  N.  8. 


The  fovorito  sea-goinff  steamships 

CARROLL  (1400  tons)  Sl  WORCESTER  (1200  tons) 

CAPT  8.  E.  ^VBIGHT,  CAPT.  B.  S.  DOANE, 

Leave  T  WHARF,  Boston,  for  the  above  ports, 

EVERY  SATURDAY,  AT  12  O'CLOCK. 


These  steamers  connect  with  the  NOVA  SCOTIA  railways  and  coast-lines  at 
Halifax  and  Pictou,  giving  opportunities  to  visit  the  chief  attractions  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces.  At  Port  Ilawkcsbury  they  connect  with  stages  for  all  parts  of  the 
Island  of  CAPE  BBETON  and  for  the  renowned  and  beautiful  BBAS  D'OB 
LAKES.  From  Charlottetown  the  tourist  can  visit  any  part  of  Prince 
Edward  Island,  by  the  trains  of  the  new  Oovcmment  Railway. 

THE  STEAMSHIPS  OF  THIS  LINE 

HAYS 

UNSURPASSED  ACCOMMODATIONS  FOR 

PASSENGERS. 

For  tickets  and  further  information,  apply  to 

WM.    H.    RINO,       or      K-    H.    ADAMS, 
18  T  Wharf.  319  Washington  St. 


¥     >' 


Ui 


-'•  > '' 


: 


!         I 


ill. 


'    .       -fi 


V    'M 


'!     '  •' 


1  ; 

14! 


THE  QUICKEST  AND  CHEAPEST  ROUTE  BETWEEN  HALIFAX  AND  ST.  JOHN, 

Making  close  connection  at  the  latter  city  with  the  trains  of  the  European  and 
North  American  Railway,  and  also  with  the  splendid  steamers  of  the  International 
Stcamshiij  Company  to  and  from  Portland,  Boston,  and  New  York. 

B^*  Tourists  will  find  this  the  pieasantest  route  from  New  York,  Boston, 
Portland,  and  St.  John  to  Halifax  and  all  parts  of  Nova  Scotia. 

ffi^"  'ihe  road  traverses  tlie  Valley  of  Acadia  and  the  magnificent  scenery  made 
celebrated  in  the  noem  of  Evanvrdine. 

Express  Trains  leave  Halifax  daily  at  8.30  a.  m.  .br  Annapolis ,  where 
connection  is  made  every  Tuesi'vy,  I  iiuksday,  Fkid.vy,  and  Satirday  with  Steani- 
erH  for  St.  .lohn.  Steamers  leave  St.  John  at  8  a.m.  for  Annapolis  every 
jMond\t,  Wednesday,  Kimday,  and  Satukday,  and  connect  with  the  '2  r.  M.  ex- 
press-train for  Halifax.  Through  Tickets  via  this,  railway  may  bo  had  at  the 
bookinjj-offlces  of  the  Eastern  and  Alaine  Central  Hallways,  and  on  board  the  Interna- 
tional Steamship  Company's  Steamers.  P.  JNNES,  Gcn.Manaqer. 


"P 


Mm 


'h 


II     (Q 


^»s-k^J 


^ 


r 

iND  ST.  JOHN, 

J  European  and 

he  International 

ITork. 

ork,  Boston, 

otia. 

It  sceneiymade 

nnapolis ,  where 
AY  with  Steani- 
^ nnapolis  every 
the  2  r.  ji.  ex- 
bo  had  at  the 
ard  the  Intema- 
'Cn.  Afanafler. 


I 


, 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


15 


^- 


UNION  LINE 

Bay  and  River  Steamers. 

>^, 

ST.  JOHN  TO  HALIFAX. 

Shortest,  Quickest,  and  Cheapest  Route. 

steamer  EMPRESS  (or  SCUD)  wUl  leave  her  wharf  at  REED'S  POINT,  at 
8  A.  M.,  for  DIGBY  and  ANNAPOLIS,  as  follows  :  — 

January^  February,  and  Mai-ch  eveiy  Wednesday  and  Saturday.   Betnm- 
Ing  same  day. 

AprU,  May«  and  June,  evcity  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Saturday.  Ketumlng 
same  day. 

July,  August,  and  September,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Sat- 
urday.  Beturning  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday. 

October,  November,  and  December,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Sat- 
urday.   Returning  same  day. 

Connecting  with  Express  Trains,  Windsor  and  Annapolis  Railway,  for  Kentville, 
Wolfville,  Windsor,  Haliikx,  &c.   Also  with  Stages  for  Yarmouth  and  Liverpool,  N.  S. 

J^—  The  Railway  runs  through  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  Valley  of  Acadia 
(celebrated  in  Longfellow's  "Evamgeune"). 

FARES: 
St.  John  to  Digby,  $1.30;  to  Annapolis,  $2.00;  to  Halifax,  $5.00. 


ST.  JOHN  TO  FREDEEICTON. 

Fare,  S1.50. 

Steamer  DAVID  WESTON  leaves  UNION  LINE  WHARF,  Indlantown, 
for  Fredericton  (calling  at  intermediate  points)  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday,  at  9  A.  M.   Returning  following  days. 


For  Grand  Lake  and  Salmon  River. 

Steamer  MAT  QUEEN  leaves  her  wharf  at  Indlantown  every  Wednesday 
and  Saturday  at  8  A.  m.    Returning  on  Monday  and  Wednesday. 


THROUGH   TICKETS   FOR    ALL   POINTS   WEST 

for  sale  on  board  the  steamers  at  reduced  rates. 

IiOW  BATES  OF  FREIGHT.   For  flirther  Information  apply  to 

SMALL  &  HATHEWAT, 

30  Dock  Street,  ST.  JOHN,  N.  B. 


I^.'  I 


I'  H 


n   i 


i: 


I 


I      ;i 


•M 


16 


AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS. 


Eastern  Steamship  Go. 


■*^*- 


H.  M.  MA.IL    LINE 

BETWEEN  HALIFAX,  N.  S., 

St.  Johns^  Newfoundland. 


steamer  *^  VIRGO  "  (noo  tons),  Capt.  Burcliell, 

Will  sail  from  Halifks  for  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland, 

Touching  at  Sydney,  Cape  Breton, 

BOTH    WAYS, 

EVERY  ALTERNATE  TUESDAY  AT  9  P.M., 

Commencing  May  25,  187& 


THE  "  VIRGO  " 

HAS  BEEN  THOROUGHLY  OVERHAULED  DURING  THE  PAST  WINTER, 
and  with  Cabins  and  State-rooms  on  the  Upper  Deck,  offers 

SUPERIOR  ACCOMMODATIONS  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 


FARES: 

Sydney,  $8.00,  St.  Johns,  $15.00 

INCLUDING  STATE-BOOM. 


For  farther  information  inquire  of 

J.  TAYLOR  WOOD,  Agent. 

HalifEiac,  N.  S.,  May  8, 1875. 


ip  Co. 

» 

land. 

Burcliell, 

Id.        '* 

Breton, 

9     Pi  Ml) 


PAST  WINTER, 
>ffer8 

iVELLERS. 


h  $15.00 


Agent. 


AD  VERTI3EMENTS. 


17 


ABBANGEMENT  FOR  1875. 


INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  GOMFY 

LINE  OF  STEAMERS  BETWEEN 

Boston,  Portland,  Eastport,  &  St  John,  N.  B., 

WITH  CONNECTIONS  TO 

CALMS,  ME.,  HALIFAX,  N.S.,  GHARLOTTETOWN,  P.LI., 

&;o.,  &:o.,  &;c. 


The  favorite  and  superior  seargoing  Steamers  of  this  Une, 


NEW  YOKK   -      - 
GIT7  OF  FOBJIAIID 
NEW  BRUNSWICK 


-  Capt  E.  B.  Winchester, 
Capt.  S.  H.  Fike» 

-  Capt.  D.  S.  Hall, 


Leave  the  end  of  Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  at  8  A.  M.,  and  Rail- 
road Wharf,  Portland,  at  6  P.  M.,  for  Eastport  and  St.  John,  N.  B.,  with 
usual  connections  as  follavvs  :  — 

In  April,  May,  and  to  June  15,  one  of  these  steamers  wiU  leave  every  Monday 
and  Thursday. 

From  June  15,  and  through  July„  August,  and  September^  every  Monday* 
Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

In  October,  November,  and  December,  every  Monday  ami  Thursday. 

Passengers  wishing  to  talte  train  to  Portland  can  do  so  by  the  Morning  and  Noon 
tr3i>»  of  Boston  &  Maine  and  Eastern  Sailroads  from  Boston,  connecting  -with  the 
Steamers  at  Portland  at  6  p.  m. 

Passengers  forwarded  by  connecting  steamers  and  railroad  lines  to  Calais  and 
Houlton,  Me.;  St.  Andrews,  Woodstock.  Fredericton,  and  Shcdiac,  N.  B.;  Amherst, 
Truro,  JSew  Glasgow,  Pictoir,  Digby,  Annapolis,  Kentvllle,  Windsor,  Halifax,  and 
Liverpool,  N.  S..;  Sununerside  and  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I. 

RATES  OF   FARE   FROM    BOSTON 

To  EASTPORT,  S6.00;  CALAIS,  95.50;  ST.  JOHN,  S5.50;  DIGBT 
» 7.00;  ANNAPOLIS,  8  7.50;  KENTVILLE,  S8.50;  WINDSOR,  99.00; 
HALIFAX,  via  Annapolis.  99.60 ;  via  all  rail  from  St.  John,  9 11.00 ;  PICTOU, 
811.00;  SUMMERSIDE,  99.60;  CHARLOTTETOWN,  9 10.50. 

FARES  FROM  PORTLAND  to  the  above  places,  one  dollar  less. 

THROUGH  TICKETS  AN©  STATE-ROOMS  secnred  at  the  Agents* 
Offlccs  or  of  the  Clerks  on  board,  who  will  also  furnish,  on  application,  a  circular, 
with  map  and  full  description  of  the  route. 

AGENTS: 

A.  K.  STTJBBS,  Portland;  GEORGE  HAYES,  Eastport;  H.  W.  CHISHOLM,  St. 
John,  N.  B. 

W.  H.  KILBY, 

End  of  Commercial  Wharf,  BOSTON. 


J  ';■     >■ 


)  ' 


18 


AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS.. 


Prince  Edward  Island 

STEAIKEERS, 

UNTIL    FURTHER    NOTICE, 

Leave  CHABLOTTETOWN  for  SUMMERSIDB  and  SHEDIAC 
every  MONDAY  and  THURSDAY  MORNING  at  3  o'clock. 

lieave  SUMMERSIDE  for  SHEDIAC  every  day  on  arrival  of 
morning  train  f roui  Cliarlottetown. 

I/eave  SHEDIAC  for  SUMRTERSIDE  every  day,  on  arrival  of 
morning  train  from  St.  John. 

Leave  SUMMERSIDE  for  CHARLOTTETOWN  every  WEDNES- 
DAY and  SATURDAY  EVENING,  at  6  o'clock. 

I<eave  CHARLOTTETOWN  for  PICTOU  and  HAWXESBURY 
every  MONDAY  and  THURSDAY  MORNING,  at  5  o'clock. 

Leave  PICTOU  for  CHARLOTTETOWN  every  WEDNESDAY 
and  SATURDAY,  on  arrival  of  morning  train  from  Halifax. 

Leave  PICTOU  for  HAWKESBURY  every  MONDAY  and 
THURSDAY,  on  arrival  of  morning  train  from  Halifax. 

Leave  PICTOU  for  GEORGETOWN  every  TUESDAY  and  FRI- 
DAY, on  arrival  of  morninsr  train  from  Halifax. 

Leave  GEORGETOWN  for  PICTOU  and  CHARLOTTETOWN 
every  WEDNESDAY  and  SATURDAY  MORNING  at  5 
o'clock. 

« 

Leave  HAWKESBURY  for  PICTOU  every  MONDAY  and 
THURSDAY,  during  night. 

Oonnect  at  ShecTiac  with  train  for  St.  John,  and  there  with  Railways  and  Inter- 
national Steamers  for  all  places  in  United  States  and  Canada;  at  Plctou  with  trains 
for  Halifax  and  all  places  in  N.  S. ;  at  Hawkesbury  with  Coaches  and  Steamers  for 
all  plaxses  in  Cape  Breton ;  at  Summerside  and  Georgetown  \^th  trains  for  Charlotte- 
town  and  all  places  in  the  Island. 


Thos.  Bolton,  Halifisix. 
Hanford  Bros.,  St.  John. 


AGENTS: 

Koonan  &  Davis,  Picton. 

A.  H.  Sutherland,  Hawkesbury. 


Charlottetown,  May  16, 1S75. 


F.  W.  HALES,   Sec'y. 


sland 


s, 


end   SHEDIA.C 
at  3  o'clock. 

on  arrival  of 


on  arrival  of 

ery  WIIDNES- 

k. 

^WXESBURT 
at  5  o'clock. 

IVEDNESDAY 
from  Halifax. 

IONI>AT    and 
tn  Halifax. 

»AY  and  FRI- 

EIX. 

tOTTETOWN 
RNING    at  5 

[ONDAT    and 

lilways  and  Inter- 

Pictou  with  trains 

and  Steamers  for 

ninsforCbarlotte- 


wkesbury. 

S,   Sec'y. 


AD  VE&  '1 J  SEME  NTS. 


19 


TOURIST! 

IN  ORDER  TO  OBTAIN  CORRECT  INFORMATION  REGARDING  THE 
JOURNEY  iJfD  ALL  RESORTS  ON  THE 

Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 

Saguenay  River, 

Quebec,  Montreal, 

White  Mountains,  etc., 


-AND- 


1,000  DIFFERENT    EXCURSION    ROUTES 

AT   REDUCED   RATES, 

CALL  AT 

240  r  It^')  Washington  St., 


THE  GENERAL  OFFICE  OF 

The  Montreal  and  Boston  Air  Line, 

The  Fassumpsic  Railroad, 

The  Quebec  and  Gulf  Forts  Steamship  Co., 

The  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  Steamer  Line, 

The  Richelieu  Line  of  Steamers  between  Mon- 
treal and  Quebec. 

GUSTAVE  LEVE,  Genl  Agent 


ir^^Call  for  Illustrated  and  Descriptive 
Circulars  and  Time-Table. 


20 


AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS. 


fc.M 


;^ 


\\\f 


!  , 


\  fl 


ii 


The  Speediest,Safest,&  most  Comtbrtable 

MODE  OF  TBATEIj  BETWEEN 

HALIFAX  AND  SYDNEY,  C.  B., 


IS  BT  THE 


MiAlTD  ROUTE, 

Via  Intercolonial  Railway,  to  Pictou,  Prince  Edward  Island  steamers  to  Port 
Uawkesbury,  and  from  West  Bay  dowu  to  Bras  d'Or  Lake,  twice  a  week, 

"^  AND   NO    SEA-SI€KNESS. 


THE  POWERFUL  SIDE-WHEEL  STEAMSHIP 

NEPTUNE Capt.  HOWARB  BEATTIE, 

Carrying  II.  M.  Mails,  will  leave  Sydney  every  TUESDAY  and  THURSDAY  morn- 
ing, passing  tiirough  the  entire  length  of  the  Bras  d'Or  Lake  to  West  Bay,  con- 
necting with  the  P.  E.  Island  steamers  at  Port  Hawkesbury  for  Pictou ;  thence  by 
Intercolonial  Railway  to  Halifax.  . 

PASSENGERS  LEAViKG  HALIFAX. 

TUESDAY  and  THURSDAY  mornings,  train  for  Pictou  will  connect  with  the 
NEPTUNE  the  Pame  evening,  and  reach  Sydney  the  following  morning. 

The  NEPTUNE  will  also  leave  Sydney  every  FRIDAY  AFTERNOON,  via  Big 
Bras  d'Or,  for 


Calling  at  Kelly's  Cove,  and  return  the  following  day. 

THROUGH  TICKETS  from  Sydney,  via  P.  E.  Island  steamers,  to  Pictou, 
Charlottetown,  and  Shediac.  Intercolonial  Railway  to  St.  John  and  International 
S.  S.  Company  to  Portland  and  Boston.    One  first-class  ticket,  $  14.50. 

Any  other  information  will  be  furnished  by  Capt.  Beattie  or  any  of  tho  following 


r  L  i 


AGENTS 

HALIFAX      .... 

SYDNEY   

NORTH  SYDNEY 
LITTLE  BRAS  D'OR      . 
BADDECK    .... 
WEST  BAY      .... 
CHRISTMAS  ISLAND 
PORT  HAWKESBURY . 
WHYCOCOMAH 


JOHN  TAYLOR  &  CO. 
C.  H.  HARRINGTON. 
WILLIAM  PROCTOR. 
JOHN  H.  CHRISTIE. 
W.  R.  IRISH. 
ANGUS  McPHEE. 
H.  F.  McDOUGALL. 
ALEX   H.  SUTHERLAND. 

PETER  McDonald. 


)mtbrtable 

,  C.  B., 

1  steamers  to  Port 
ice  a  week, 


IP 

J)  BEATTIE, 

THURSDAY  mom- 
to  West  Bay,  con- 
Pictou;  thence  by 

IFAX. 

1  connect  with  the 
I  morning. 
DERNOON,  via  Big 


lay. 

teamers,  to  Pictou, 
and  International 
14.50. 
y  of  tho  following 

HLOR  &  CO. 

RINGTON. 

PROCTOR. 

HRISTIE. 

H. 

PHEE. 

(UGALL, 

SUTHERLAND. 

30NALD. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  21 

THE  SAUNTERER'S  SERIES. 

■  •■ 

**  An  exqalsite  series  of  Httle  books,  irhose  dainty  beanty  at  once  makes 
the  hand  a  friend  and  the  eye  a  lover,  —  nrhlle  the  varied  freshness  and 
grace  of  their  contents  charm  their  readers  to  admiration  and  delight." 

\  _____ 

Each  volume  complete,  tastefully  hound  and  stamped,  with  red  edges. 

Saunterin^s.    By  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  Author  of  "  My 

Summer  in  a  Garden,"  "  Backlog  Studies,'- etc $1.50 

Bits  of  Travel.    By  H.  H.  With  a  Portrait  of  "  A  German  Land- 
lady," and  a  Picture  of  Oasteia  1.50 

A  Chance  Acquaintance.     By  W.  D.  Howells,  Author  of 

"  Their  Wedding  Journey,"  etc 1.60 

The  Tour  of  the  World  In  Eighty  Days.   By  Jules  Verne, 

Author  of '' Twenty  Thousand  Leagues  under  the  Seas,"  etc.    .       .       .    1.50 

Among  the  Isles  of  Shoals.     By  Mrs.  Celia  Thaxter. 

With  Four  Illustrations  by  H.  Femn .       .     1.50 

Hap-Hazard.    A  Vohime  of  Travel  and  Character  Sketches  in 

America  and  Europe.    By  Kate  Field .     1.50 

South  Sea  Idyls.    Travel  Pictures  of  the  South  Pacific  and  its 

Islands.    By  Charles  Warren  Stoddard 1.50 

Normandy  Picturesque.    By  Henry  Blackburn,  Author  of 

"  Artists  and  Arabs,"  etc.    With  Illustrations  by  the  Author  .        .       .     1.50 

Artists  and  Arabs.    By  Henry  Blackburn,  Author  of  "  Nor- 
mandy Picturesque,"  etc.    With  Illustrations  by  the  Author  .        .       .     1.50 

'^  r.  Ox,  and  other  Stories.    By  Jules  Verne,  Author  of  "  The 

Tour  of  the  World  in  Eighty  Days, '  etc.    Illustrated       ....     1.00 

Gunnart  A  Norse  Romance.    ByH.  H.  Boyesen    .  .    1.50 

Ten   Days   in   Spain.     By  Kate  Field,  Author  of  "Hap- 
Hazard,"  etc 1.50 

Baddecl<,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing.    By  Charles  Dudley 

Warner 1.00 

The  Wrecic  of  the  Chancellor,  and  Martin  Paz.   By  Jules 

Veene,  Author  of  "  The  Tour  of  the  World  in  Eighty  Days  "  .        .       .     1.50 

Whip  and  Spur.    By  George  E.  Waring,  formerly  Colonel  of 

the  4th  Missouri  Cavalry 1.25 

Their  Wedding  Journey.    By  W.  D.  Howells    .  .      .1.50 

*#*  For  sale  hy  aU  Booksellers.    Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 
the  Publishers, 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO.,  Boston. 


22 


AD  VER  TI  SEME  NTS. 


Books  of  European  Travel. 


■i  i  '4  ' 


'iir 


! 


':K\ 


:  i-\ 


Saunterings.     By  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  author  of 

"  My  Summer  in  a  Garden,"  etc.    $  1.60. 
.  .  .  .  "  The  book  contains  a.  little  about  England  and  France,  more  about  Swit- 
zerland and  Holland,  and  a  great  deal  concerning  South  Oermanj'and  Italy.    There 
is  not  a  dull  page  in  it ;  but  it  glows  with  a  quiet  drollery  and  a  genuine  wit  that  is 
refreshing,  and  not  provoking,  as  wit  too  often  is."  —  Springfield  Republican. 


Castilian  Days.    By  John  Hay.     12mo.    %  2.00. 

"  A  most  attractive  volume,  in  which  Colonel  Hay  writes  easily  and  picturesquely 
of  the  cities,  streets,  and  buildings,  and  of  the  history,  politics,  and  domestic  life  and 
character  of  "le  inhabitants,  of  that  unique,  old-fashioned  country  [Spain]."  —  Lon- 
don Spectator. 

Ha-wthome's  European  Sketches  and  Notes. 

Our  Old  Home.    Essays  on  English  towns,  country  scenes,  people,  and 

customs.    $2.(10. 
iEngU^h  Note-Bookg.    Containingamultitude  of  hints  and  flying  sketches 

of  England  and  the  f:nghsh.    $  2  00. 
French  and  Italian  Note- Books.   Full  of  Hawthome-ish  observations 

and  reflections.    $ 2  00. 


Hoppin's  Travel  Sketches. 

Ups  and  Dovirng  on  L.and  and  Water*    9 10.00. 

Crossing  the  Atlantic.    $8.00. 

Two  very  mirth-provoking  books,  diverting  to  look  at  while  voyaging,  pleasant  to 
examine  as  reminders  of  travel  past. 


The  Lands  of  Scott    By  James  F.  Hunnewell.     12mo. 

$2.50. 

"  It  is  a  delig-htfu!  epitome  of  the  great  author's  life  and  works,  the  reader  being 
introduced  to  a  detailed  acquaintance  with  these,  while  he  is  led  through  the  locadi- 
ties  which  the  genius  of  Scott  has  celebrated."  —  Buffalo  Courier. 


Six  Months  in  Italy.    By  George  S.  Hillard.    $  2.00. 

"  The  record  of  a  brilliant  episode  in  the  life  of  a  scholar,  which  has  filled  his 
memory  with  images  alike  beautiful  and  enduring.  It  is  almost  minute  enough  in 
its  descriptions  for  a  guide-book,  yet  abounds  in  just  and  sensible  remarks,  well-in- 
formed criticisms,  and  varied  learning."  —  Putnarn's  Monthly. 


Notes  of  Travel  and  Study  in  Italy.    By  Charles  Eliot 

Norton.    $  1.25. 
"  Mr.  Norton  is  no  ordinary  tourist."  —  Phila.  Press. 


%*  For  sale  by  BookseUers.    Sent,  post  paid,  on  receipt  of  price  by  the 
Publishers, 

JAMES  B.  OSGOOD  &  CO.,  Boston. 


ravel. 


a,  author  of 

more  about  Swit- 
nd  Italy.  There 
nuine  wit  that  is 
lepubiican. 


). 

nd  picturesquely 
domestic  life  and 
Spain]."  — Lo«- 


oes,  people,  and 
id  flying  sketches 
i-ish  observations 


^ng,  pleasant  to 


3LL.      12mo. 

the  reader  being 
rough  the  locali- 


0.      $  2.00. 

h  has  filled  his 
inute  enouf^h  in 
emarlis,  well-in- 


RLES  Eliot 
tf  price  by  the 

.,  Boston. 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


23 


Books  of  American  Travel. 

Ne-w  England :  A  full,  concise,  accurate  guide-book  to  all  the 

cities,  mountain  and  seafiido  reports,  and  memorable  places  in  New  England, 
ludiripensable  to  every  tourist  within  these  six  States.  With  many  Mans  and 
Plana.    $2.00.  ^ 

The  Adirondacks :   What  summer  comforts  and  recreations 

they  offer.  How  to  get  there  and  to  gain  the  most  health  and  benefit  from 
them,  — and  a  very  readable  book,  too.  By  W.  11.  H.  Murray.  AVith  Maps 
and  Illustrations.    $2.00.    Cheaper  Edition,  without  maps,  $  1.60. 

Newport :  Some  of  its  picturesque,  romantic,  and  historical  fea- 
tures, very  charmingly  described  (and  illustrated  with  Heliotypes)  in  "  Oldport 
Da;  -^  "  (.1?  250),  and  in  "  Malbone  ;  an  Oldport  Romance  »  (9 1.50).    By  T.  W. 


HiGOINSON. 

Boston  Illustrated 

Boston  and  its  suburbs. 


A  clear,  full,  interesting  representation  of 

Very  amply  illustrated.    60  cents. 

Seaside  Studies:  A  charming  description,  with  illustrations 
of  New  England  Polyps,  Jelly-Fishes,  and  Star-Fishes.  By  ALI:xA^DER  and 
Mrs.  B.  C.  AOA38I7.    $3.00. 

Woods   and   By- Ways   of  New   England:    A  delightful 

book,  full  of  outdoor  and  forest  information,  "  penetrated  by  the  flavor  and  fra- 
grance of  our  New  England  woods  and  fields."  By  Wilson  Flaqo.  With 
Ueliotype  Illustrations.    8vo.    $5.00. 

Thoreau's  Excursions,  Maine  Woods,  Cape  Cod,  Wal- 
den,  Canada,  Concord  and  Merrimack  Biverst  Marvellously  keen 
and  minute  in  obserration,  abounding  in  original  suggestions,  and  exceedingly 
interesting.    $  2.00  each. 


in  the   Sierra  Nevada.     By   Clarence 


Mountaineering 

KiNQ.    92.50. 

"  A  book  bracing  in  tone,  vivid  in  description,  exciting  in  adventure,  and  abound- 
ing in  valuable  information.  Since  Tyndall's  volume  on  th.i  Alps,  we  have  read 
nothing  so  vigorous  and  stimulating  as  Mr.  King's  narrative  tf  mountain  explora- 
tion."—  Boston  Globe. 

Historic  Fields  and  Mansions  of  Middlesex.     A  familiar 

description  of  numerous  places,  scenes,  and  buildings  in  Middlesex  County, 
Mass.,  with  records,  reminiscences,  and  anecdotes  of  the  men  and  events  which 
have  made  it  famous.    By  S.  A.  Drake.    Heliotype  Illustrations.    $  5.00. 

Old  Landmarks  and   Historic   Personages  of  Boston: 

Containing  an  immense  amount  of  information  about  Boston,  the  changes  it 
has  undergone,  and  the  men  and  women  who  liave  contributed  to  its  renown. 
By  S.  A.  Drake.    Fully  illustrated.    $  3.00. 


Hawthorne's  American  Note-Books. 

servation  and  felicitous  description.    $  2.00. 


Full  of  curious  ob- 


%*  For  sale  by  Booksellers.    Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price  by  the 
Publishers^ 

JAMES  B.  OSGOOD  &  CO,  Boston. 


24 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


;! 


ff!' 


LITTLE    CLASSICS, 


"A  series  of  exquisitely  printed  little  Tolumes  in  flexible  binding 
and  red  edges,  which  gather  up  the  very  choicest  things  in  our  lit- 
erature in  the  way  of  short  tales  and  sketches."— ^ttiTo/o  Courier. 


The  Prose  Series  indudes  twelve  volomes,  as  follows : 


I.  Exile. 

II.  Intellect. 

m.  Tragedy. 

IV.  Life. 

V.  Laughter. 

VI.  Love. 


VII.  Romance. 

VIII.  Mystery. 

IX.  Comedy. 

X.  Childhood. 

XI.  Heroism. 

Xn.  Fortune. 


Tasteftilly  bound.  Price*  S  1.00  each. 


"  Too  mnch  praise  cannot  be  accorded  the  projectors  of  this  work.  It  lays,  for  a 
very  small  sum,  the  cream  of  the  best  writers  before  the  reader  of  average  means.  It 
usually  happens  that  very  few,  except  professional  people  and  scholars,  care  to  read 
all  that  even  the  most  famous  men  have  written.  They  want  hi%  best  work,  —  the 
one  people  talk  most  about,— and  when  they  have  read  that  they  are  satisfied." — 
New  York  Commereial  Advertiser. 

"  Confessedlv  the  best  miscellaneous  collection  of  short  stories  anywhere  attain- 
able."—i^aryord  Courant. 

"  There  is  no  other  collection  of  short  stories  equal  in  value  and  variety." —Au^on 
Advertiser. 

"  Every  one  of  these  books  is  worth  reading  and  buying."  —  Springfield  Sepubliean. 

"  These  selections  are  made  with  exquisite  taste,  and  appear  in  the  daintiest  little 
volumes  imaginable."—  Chicago  Post. 

"  The  series  contains  nearly  every  gem  of  prose  English  literature,  and  whoever 
wishes  to  have  the  best  story  of  a  great  writer,  without  the  encumbrance  of  ail  his 
worlLS,  will  do  well  to  get  this  series  of '  Little  Classics.'  "—Boston  Pilot. 


*#♦  For  sale  ly  all  Booksellers.    Sent  post-paid  on  receipt  of  price  by 
the  publishers, 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO.,  Boston. 


ixible  binding 
iffs  In  our  Ut- 

Talo  Courier. 


ows: 

ance. 

;ery. 

9dy. 

Lhood. 

ism. 

me. 


k.  It  lays,  for  a 
erage  means.  It 
lars,  care  to  read 
jest  work,  —  the 
are  satisfied."  — 


nywhere  attain- 

itiety."— Boston 

field  Republican. 

e  daintiest  little 

re,  and  whoever 
brance  of  aU  his 
'Hot. 

pt  of  price  by 

Boston. 

THE  MIDDLE  STATES: 

A  HANDBOOK  FOB  TBATELLEBS. 

A  Guide  to  the  Chief  OiUeB  and  Popular  Resorts  of  the  Middle 
States,  and  to  their  Scenery  and  Historic  Attractions ;  with 
the  Northern  Frontier  from  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal ;  also 
Baltimore,  Washington,  and  Northern  Virginia.  With  Maps 
of  the  Middle  States,  the  Adirondack  Mountains,  the  Oats- 
kill  Mountains,  the  Hudson  Biver,  Long  Island,  and  the 
Environs  cf  New  York  and  Philaidelphia ;  and  Plans  of 
Baltimore,  Brooklyn,  Buffalo,  the  Oentral  Park,  Greenwood 
Cemetery,  Montreal,  New  York  City,  Niagara  Falls,  Ottawa, 
Philadelphia,  Pittsburg,  B.ochester,  Saratoga,  Toronto,  and 
Washington. 

Price,  $2.00. 

"  No  previous  mMiiial  is  so  copious  or  so  exact  in  its  treatment,  or  can  be  consulted  to 
80  great  advantage  by  the  tourist  in  the  Middle  States  as  a  trustworthy  guide."  — 
New  York  2Viftime. 

"  The  maps  alone  are  worth  the  pricf  of  the  volume,  which  is  crammed  with  inform** 
tion  like  a  traveller's  valise  with  luggage."  —  New  York  Daily  Graphic . 

"  The  handbook  for  the  New  England  States  waa  by  fiir  the  best  American  gnide-bo<dE 
ever  printed ;  and  this  volume  is  fkilly  equal  to  it  in  all  respects."  — Boston  lYanscript. 


THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES : 

A  HANDBOOK  FOB  TBATELLEBS. 

A  Guide  to  the  Chief  Cities,  Coasts,  and  Islands  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces  of  Canada,  and  to  their  Scenery  and  Historic 
Attractions ;  with  the  Oulf  and  Biver  of  St.  Lawrence  to 
Quebec  and  Montreal ;  also  Newfoundland  and  the  Labrador 
Coast.  With  Maps  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  Eastern 
New  England  and  Canada,  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  the 
Basin  of  Minas  and  the  Land  of  Evangeline,  the  Lower  St. 
Lawrence  Biver,  and  the  Saguenay  Biver ;  and  Plans  of  the 
Cities  of  St.  John,  HalifiuE,  Quebec,  and  Montreal. 

Price,  $2.00. 


\*  For  mle  In/  booksellers.    Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by  tile  Pub- 
lishers,    " 


[)  i 


'il  •■  ^ 


I.  '■'/■ 


':■!     I 


! 


: . 


r  TT  A 


ST.  LOUIS    HOTZSLi^ 

St.   Louis    Street, 
QUEBEC. 

This  Hotel,  which'is  unrivalled  for  Size,  Style,  and  Locality  in  Quebec,  ia  open  through* 
out  the  year  for  Pleasure  and  Business  Trayel.  It  is  eli^bly  situated  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  the  moat  delightftil  and  fashionable  promenades,  the  Qovemor's  Oarden, 
the  Citadel,  the  Esplanade,  the  Place  d'Armes,  and  Durham  Terrace  which  furnish  the 
splendid  views  and  magnificent  scenery  for  which  Quebec  is  so  celebrated,  and  which 
are  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

Tha  iwoprietom;  tn  returning  ti^'-  ales  for  the  very  liberal  patronage  they  have  hitherto 
enjoyed,  inform  the  public  that  tho  St.  Louis  Hotel  has  been  thoroughly  renovated  and 
embellished,  and  can  now  accommodate  about  600  visitors,  and  assure  them  that  noth-. 
ing  will  be  wanting  on  their  part  that  will  conduce  to  the  comfort  and  eqjoymeat  of 
their  guests. 

ALSO, 

CLrAREHDOlV   HOT&I., 

Corner  A.iin  and  Garden  Streets, 

UPPER    TOWN. 

^'  This  modern-built  Hotel  is  now  open  as  an  auxiliary  to  the 
St  Louis  Hotel.       ^^^^^  i«oi»«batb. 


WILLIS  RUSSiSLL, 


Proprietor. 


CITY   OF   QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  by  its  historic  fimie  and  its  unequalled  scenety,  is  no  ordinary  or  commonplace 
city  ;  for  though,  like  other  large  communities,  it  carries  on  trade,  commerce,  and  manu- 
fkctures,  cnlttvatea  art,  science,  and  literature,  abounds  in  charities,  and  professes  special 
regard  to  the  amenities  of  social  life,  it  claims  particular  attention  as  being  a  str'liingly 
unlqae  old  place,  the  atronghold  of  r'anada,  and  in  fact  the  Key  of  the  Province.  Vipwed 
ftom  aPT  one  of  its  aplNroaehea,  it  impresses  the  stranger  with  the  conviction  of  stronxtb 
and  permanency. 


iiiMfc*iWM  pnimwiiii  wi^ 


mmm 


^ 


« 


iiebec.  la  open  through- 
ituated  in  the  imtnedi- 
he  Governor's  Garden, 
ice  which  furnish  the 
celebrated,  and  which 

ge  they  have  hitherto 
roughlj  nnoTated  and 
laure  tbem  that  noth- 
brt  and  ei^o/ment  of 


streets, 

auxiliary  to  the 
Proprietor. 


larjr  or  commonplace 
commerce,  and  manu- 
and  professes  ppecial 
as  being  a  str'idngly 
10  Province.  Vipwed 
onvlction  of  strenxtb 


'■ 


ALLAN   LINE! 

UKDEB  COHTRACT  WtTH  THE  QOTEBlTMnrT  OF  CANADA  FOB  THE  CON- 
TETANCE  OF  THE  CANADIAN  AND  AHEBICAN  MAILS. 


The  Lines 

of  thla  company  are  composed  of  the  undemoted  Full-powered,  Double-en- 

gined,  Clyde- 

built  Steamships: 

• 

Tatfi. 

0 

Tbiu. 

Sardlnimn 

4100 

Lr.  DoTTOir,  B.N.R. 

NMtorUn 

S700 

Capt.  Barciat. 

Polynesian       4100 

Catt.  a.  Browm. 

Moravlaa 

8900 

Capt.  J.  Orahaii. 

Sarniatian       8000 

Capt.  a.  Aibi>. 

PervTlaa 

8700 

Capt.  R.  8.  Watts. 

Circassian        S700 

Capt.  J.  Wylw. 

Canadian 

2000 

Capt  Millkb. 

Hibernian        8484 

Lt.  AaoHRa,  R.N.R. 

Manitoban 

81&0 

Capt.  H.  Wiui. 

NoraScotlan    8800 

Capt.  Riobabosoit. 

Corintklan 

2400 

Capt.  J.  Scott. 

Scandinavian  8000 

Lr.  SMnH,  R.N.R. 

PliQBnlcian 

2800 

Capt.  Scott. 

Caspian            8200 

Capt.  Trocks. 

Waldantian 

2600 

CAPT.J.G.STEPnEn 

PrnsslaB          8000 

Capt.  RrroaiE. 

Acadian 

1850 

Capt.  Cadel. 

Aastrian 

2700 

Oapt.  OaANUi. 

Newfonndland  1600 

Capt.  Mtuks. 

Tbe  Steamers  of  the  Liverpool  Line  sail  Semi-weekly  between  Liverpool  and  Quebec 
throughout  the  season  of  Summer  Navigation  ;  and  from  Liverpool  every  Thursday,  and 
Arom  Portland  every  Saturday  during  the  season  of  Winter  Navig;«tion,  the  vessels  of  the 
Mail  Line  calling  at  Movllle  to  receive  and  land  Passengers  and  Maiis  to  and  from  Ireland 
and  Scotland. 

The  Steamers  of  the  Halifax  Line  sail  fortnightly  between  Liverpool  and  Quebec,  or  Bal- 
timore via  Halifax,  N.  S.,  and  St.  Johns,  N.F.,  during  the  season  of  Summer  Navigation; 
and  between  Liverpool  and  Baltimore,  via  Halifax,  during  the  season  of  Winter  Naviga- 
tion. 

The  steamers  of  the  Glasgow  Line  sail  weekly  between  tbe  Clyde  and  Quebec  during 
Summer,  and  at  intervals  I)etween  Glasgow  and  Portland  during  Winter. 


RATES   OF    PASSAGE. 

From  Quebec  or  Portland  to  Iiiverpool  or  liondonclerry.  —  Cabik,  870 

and  $80,  accordintr  to  accommodation.  Steerage,  $2-5.  Children  under  12  years  or  age, 
$6  per  head  in  Atter  Cabin,  and  9  5  per  head  in  Forward  Berths  ;  under  1  year,  Free.  In 
Steerage,  over  1  year  Bnd  nnder  12,  $i  per  head  ;  under  1  year,  Free.  Ser>-ants  in  Cabin, 
850. 

Steerage  Passengers  require  to  provide  their  own  Beds  and  Bedding,  and  Eating  and 
Drinking  Utensils. 

From  Quebec  or  Portland  to  Glasgro-w.  — Cabin,  $60  :  Intebhkdiatb,  $40; 
Stbeuagb,  $24.  Children  under  12  years  of  age,  $5  per  head  m  Cabin;  $3  per  bead  In 
Intermediate ;  and  $2  per  head  In  Steerage.    Under  1  year.  Free. 

From  Halifax  to  St.  Johns,  or  vice  Tersa-  — Cabin,  $20  or  $18;  Children 
from  1  to  12  years,  $  2  psr  year.    Stuebaob,  $  6  ;  Children  from  1  to  12  years,  60c.  per  year. 

From  Baltimore  to  St.  Jobns.  or  vice  versa.  —  Cabin,  $35  ;  Children  from  1 
to  12  years,  $  3  per  year.    Steebagb,  $  20  ;  "Children  from  1  to  12  years,  $  1 .75  per  year. 

From  Baltimore  to  Hallfbx,  or  vice  versa.  —  Cabik,  $20  ;  Children  from  1  to 
12  years,  $2  per  year.    Steebagb,  $  12  ;  Children  from  1  to  12  years,  $  1  per  year. 


Quebec,  Allans,  Bab,  A  Co. ;  in  Toronto,  H.  Bovblier  ;  In  Hamilton,  Gbo.  A. 
YocNG  ;  In  Ottawa,  D.  W.  Cowa&d  &  Co. ;  in  Hallflnx,  N.  S.,  S.  Cttnakd  &  Co.  ;  hi 
St.  John,  N.  B.,  W.  Thomson  &  Co. ;  in  St.  Johns,  N.  F.,  Hon.  A.  Shea  ;  In  Port- 
land, Me.,  J.  L.  Fabmbb  ;  in  Norfolk,  Ta.,  Col.  W.  Lamb  ;  in  Baltimore,  Md.» 
A.  ScHUMACBBB  A  Co. ;  in  Detroit,  E.  Reidt  ;  in  Chicaeo,  Allan  &  Co. 

H.  &  A,  ALLAN,  Agents/ 

Comer  Touvllle  and  Common  Streets,  Montreal. 


-^- 


